Base Numbers for the Ford parts Required: 7BO28 7BO28 7R081 Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software: Download Here- forscan.org/home.html ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend- amzn.to/2GC6dBj As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
i was going to say that the 7R081 part number wasn't shown on the diagram on the video @15:25 but i see it here in the comments. the long in/out tubing. also instead of scoring the black tubing lines to remove them, couldnt you try applying some heat gun heat to soften them up, and then removing them that way? thats how i remove sprinkler lines from barbed connectors
Seriously, does this affect 2009-2014 Expeditions? I have a 2009 Expedition (El Limited) with the same line setup as this, should I worry about it or does it only affect the F150?
Thanks a million for the ‘how to’ video. I took mine to a nearby dealer who said these lines aren’t meant to be replaced. They wanted to jack up the motor to replace the lines and charge me 5 hours labor. I sent them your video and they said it would take them two-three hours. You saved me 2-3 hours labor and taught the dealer ‘specialist’ a lesson.
I changed them on my 2012 5.0 two weeks ago with 118,000 miles. I felt like I was gambling until I changed them. Thanks for bringing this to my attention. Once again you have saved my butt. LOVE this channel!
I just performed this on a 2014 5.0 F150 2wd. Guys this is a surprisingly very easy project to do. Don't be overwhelmed by taking it on. Everything went as planned and it was very straightforward. I believe I lost three quarters of a quart of transmission fluid doing this. At least that's what I had to put back in on the hot start measurement. Big thanks to Brian you are the man and continue to be for many of us!
Thanks for the comment! I was starting to get a bit overwhelmed with this and thought I’d have to pay a fortune to have mine replaced at a shop. How long did this take you?
@@71rcode72 Awesome! Did you have access to a lift or did you just do it by lifting the front end? Wasn’t sure how easy it might be to fish the lines out if you didn’t have a lift and were limited in space under the truck
I've watched many of your videos and I have to say that yours are by far the best on YT. Thanks so much for posting, especially this one. I have a 2012 F150 with 190k miles on it and I have often commented that the transmission is my only real worry. No issues other than age. So after seeing this and the related warning video you did, I inspected mine and the crimp on the right side main line is split completely through! The only thing holding the rubber hose to the line is corrosion and luck. I just ordered the parts and will be replacing in the driveway this weekend. Every other weekend on average we make the 260 mile each way journey to our lake home. I think you saved me from being stranded on the road with a burnt up transmission!!!! Now I like you even more. Keep up the great work!
Your video saved me. Bought a used 2013 F150. Saw your video. Went right out and checked my lines. Caught it just as one of the fittings started to leak. Parked until I could get the lines changed. Your videos are great.
Holy 💩! Yesterday I was doing this exact job on my 2012. I was looking all over for some videos and specifically for one of yours and was like... Come on fordtech... Can't believe you haven't made this video yet... You're making me loco... And then bam! Not 24 hours later and here it is! I have goosebumps.
Thank you so much for all that you do!!! I changed mine last night at 137k on my '13 5.0 4wd. I wanted to get it done before I drove a lot for Christmas. Now I have one less thing to worry about. And if it wasn't for your videos, I wouldn't know it was needed, or how to do it, and what steps to take. It took me 4 hours including driving home, loading up my tools, then driving back to my warehouse (level indoor floor / heated) doing the job, loading everything up and going home. The hardest part was getting the transmission o rings to get aligned and in. I don't have a lift, so I jacked my truck up and put it on jack stands. I took the axle bolts out, but it didn't move very much. I definitely didn't get the bushing to go under the metal, so I snaked the old one out and put the new one in. Maybe because mine has a 2.5in leveling block in the front it was easy? If I was helping a friend, an we had no lift, but his truck was lifted, I'd probably try it without the jack stands and floor jack. For my truck I started at parts.ford.com/shop/en/us and put my VIN in, then searched for the transmission cooler and found the parts below. Then I called 2 local dealerships and compared their prices + shipping to www.fairwayfordparts.net/ and Fairway saved me over $100. CL3Z-7R081-A Cooler Pipe 9L3Z-7B028-F Lower Return Pipe 9L3Z-7B028-G Front Press Tube
I was wondering if anyone was able to do this on jack stands. Wasn't sure if you needed the clearance of a hoist. Looks like you were successful. Thanks for posting this.
@@jkk1682 it’s been a while and I can’t remember exactly. I think I jacked the truck up and took out the axle bolts but hardly pushed it down any. If I was to do it again I don’t think I would lift it or take the axle bolt out.
I was camping this summer in New Mexico and happened to see an earlier video on this problem. So I crawled under my 2014 Expedition (120K miles) and sure enough the crimp on both lines were split worse than this video. I'm from Michigan so was thinking with the crimps oriented vertically that water gets in there and freezes splitting the crimp. I took the truck to a Ford dealer in NM and it was a 3-4 wait for the parts so the mechanic cut of the crimps and put 2 hose clamps on each hose to get me on my way. It was nervous trip back to Michigan. I had them replaced and the transmission shop said they replace a lot of transmissions because of this problem. Thanks for the great videos and keeping me from getting stranded.
Just replaced all 3 lines on my 2013 f150 3.5 ecoboost, did on my driveway on 2 jackstands, no need to remove anything, everything slides in and out in one piece.. need 2 people to slide pipes in and out: one in front to guide and one in back to feed it. Replaced lines, added 7qts in my case and everything good! Would still watch the video to know what u kinda doing, has very nice camera angles
Had my local Ford guy do this on my 2011 F150 3.7 with 178,000 miles. They suggested replacing the clips which I did. I could have done it myself but the cost to have them do the work didn't motivate me to tackle it. Thanks for the video always great advice and instruction whether I do it myself or have someone else do it.
@@Nabsolute_ I think it was about $875. It helps I am friends with the local Ford Dealership owner. I know I don't get over charged. As an added bonus he picks it up on his way into work and drops it off when it's repaired. I've never had major issues with my F-150. I have always tried to do preventative maintenance. I just ordered a 2024 Ranger and I'm keeping my fingers crossed it will be as dependable.
Changed these lines on my 2014 F150 5.0 (2wd, 91K) which was MUCH easier than the 4wd's. I changed the trans oil & filter at the end of this process, just wanted to make a single mess while I was under the truck. I imagine this could have been a very expensive trans repair otherwise. Thanks for the excellant video content and quality.
Recently did this on my ‘09 5.4L-3v SCrew FX4 as a result of Brian’s earlier warnings. The crimps were split, though not as bad. I also had a black plastic protector that the starter wire was mounted in that I had to remove. It was a PITA, but worth the peace of mind! Thank you again for saving us all a bunch of money, especially this day in age!
I didn’t as I don’t have a lift. I did put the front up on ramps though. To make more room, I used 4-wheel drive to back the front up on them. Unfortunately, mine was a little more involved. I had to remove the power steering rack bolts and loosen the transfer case to wiggle the lines out, the ‘09s seem to be an odd duck, built a little different than the others.
I had to remove that too. The bracket on mine was broke off and couldn’t find where it mounted.It was a stud holding the plastic bracket on followed by a nut to hold the trans bracket on. The stud broke and I haven’t been able to find a part number on it. Definitely was a PITA
I just did this job a few days ago. 2010 F150 5.4L. You will definitely have to drop the sway bar and front axles as show in this video. The clearance above the front axle is so tight I couldn't pass the new lines through until I dropped it down! As long as you follow the steps in order, this is a pretty straight forward job. Good luck to you
So it's also a great time to the oil pan gasket on the 5.0 if it's leaking because the same parts of the driveline, etc need to be dropped to do that task.
Outstanding video! I was tooling along in my 2013 F150 (3.5L TT flex fuel, 145k miles) when I got a maintenance warning and noticed that the transmission temperature was redlined. Pulled over and shut it down. While waiting for a tow, I uncoupled the trailer and found the front of it coated in oil. Knew right away what had happened. Didn't know what to do to fix it. This video was *perfect*. 2 days later (had to wait for some parts), it is up and running again, with no apparent damage. Trans. fluid was clear and clean with no burnt smell, so I didn't drop the pan to inspect. Took 6.5 quarts of ATF to get it back up to level though! Thank you FordTechMakuloco for an awesome instructional video! Oh yeah: One of the two jumpers had sheared clean in two right where it enters to quick-connect fitting.
Nice detailed video. I just did my 2011 F-150 with the 5.0 engine. I had my truck on ramps. If you first remove the solid steel lines front mounting bracket, you don’t need to lower the axle or sway bar. After you snake the lines from the transmission forward, reattach the front mounting bracket.
Just dropping by to say thanks. I started checking mine after I saw this video and noticed when I was changing the oil that one of the crimps started to crack. So glad I caught it!! Thanks again
I have a 2014 F150 3.5L with 150,000 miles on it. I have never looked at the cooling lines on it. Thank you for this video. You may have just saved me a new transmission man.
@kevincubias8441 no. I looked at the quick connects and everything looks fine. I just keep an eye on them now. If I notice any corrosion I'll get it taken care of then.
First of all thank you, your video informing us of the fault in the connectors made me inspect mine. SO I replaced all of them from transmission to the cooler and back. Every one that you said to replace. Did it last August and no leaks no problems. Same split on my 13. I also put in a new cooler as well. I also installed a transmission dipstick.
Where did you get a transmission dip stick and how much did you have to pay? I thought these trans worked with a vacuum that's why they didn't come with dip stick.
If it helps anyone, I did this job on my garage floor with no issues. I did not drop the sway bar or crossmember. I removed the front bracket on the new lineset and fished the line thought with everything in place. Then i put the bracket back on and secured it to the alternator stud. It was tricky, had to use a mirror and to pliers to bend the tab back down on the bracket but it saved a tone of work. Just my $.02 ...
I replaced mine in my driveway last July, I replaced everything, new filter, line sets and cooler with its smaller hose pieces that go to it. I really wish there was a way to show the pictures of my original line set. The compression fitting split and just started to drip. If I hadn't seen his other video I would of had to replace a transmission.
An AMAZING step by step instructional video! This is by far the BEST video I’ve seen on UA-cam. Thank you a million times over! I made sure to subscribe….
I will be dropping my oil pan to replace the seal so this seems the perfect time to replace this line while I’m at it. Thank you for the video. Subscribed
I recently bought a '13 5.0 with 182,000 km. I found one of your other videos on this while researching common 12th Gen problems. I immediately arranged to take the truck in for a transmission service and new lines. Not cheap but definitely less expensive than smoking the trans. And while in there the mechanic noticed a broken clip on the valve body attachment. Big repair avoided.
Solid video as always. Thanks for taking the time. I checked my '11 6.2L lines after your last video about this, but I'll be checking again and buying the parts soon! All the best...
Just finished replacing waterpump, thermostat, flush/fill, belts, and O-rings on hoses. Next I did the lines and cooler on my 6R80 along with the pan drop/clean, filter, bulkhead sleeve, and pump seal that sits under the valvebody. The very worst part of this job was using a hand pump to put the fluid back in. By the time I was finished I used around 10 quarts and my tranny was at operating temp 🥹. Now I understand why Brian uses an electric pump. I wonder how much all this would have cost at a shop 🤔. Thank you @FordTechMakuloco your knowledge and experience is invaluable to us all.
Mine broke while I was halfway up my driveway. Thank God it wasn't while on the highway. Now I know what I'm doing in a couple days! Thanks for the thorough video and tips!
This was an invaluable video, very well done. I wish all car repair videos went into this level of detailing what to expect. THANK YOU. You made a job I was dreading much less painful.
Well done vid with some good info that could save Ford F-150 owners thousands of dollars and a lot of grief. Sounds like Ford should have recalled these trans cooler lines in favor of a more dependable connection to avoid catastrophic transmission failure.
Thanks for all the info and how to’s you share with us all Brian. With 73k on my 2012 F 150 5.0 I look at the lines regularly. Want to hold off until my next trans fluid change at 80k if possible. After watching this may need to reconsider. Recognizing there is metal fatigue in play I am thankful this truck lived out west it’s entire life where corrosion was not a factor. Great video and camera work by the videographer! 😉👍
I hope that by now you have replaced the lines. My 2013 just hit 70k and I noticed a faint leak around one of the quick connects. I touched it and it broke! Exactly where he shows it in his video. My lines look new! So take his advice and do not wait! This happened a few hours ago in my thankfully in my driveway. I was under the hood looking for a wire to connect a third brake light on a recently purchased cap and noticed the slight stain from the leak. I am going to cut out both quick connects and install rubber trans hose for now, then order the parts and do this on my back!
Watched your video twice to make sure I wasnt missing anything. then jumped into replacing these lines myself. Went perfectly! thank you so much! also, I removed the mounting clip that came on the new lines, slid the new lines in place without removing the front driveline and then put the clip back on the lines and it went so fast (I was very careful not to smash the new lines while doing that). Love being able to work on my truck by myself and knowing that things are done right. You are the best!
I bought the part 6 months ago and procrastinated attacking this job. I did it today and it was easy peasy because i watched this video first. Thanks for the great content.
I ended up taking the bracket off the lines when I was putting the new ones in the little tabs broke, but I ended up using the stainless steel. Screw to clamp it back on. I didn’t need to drop the sway bar and I did take the one bolt out of the axle and it dropped a little bit, but I didn’t have a lift. I was on the concrete outside, but this is a great video
Watched your first video on this subject then seen the second one. Well that was it got mine changed back in November 2013 f150 5.0. If it weren't for you would never had known. Thanks for what you do
Thanks! Used your video to do the job after leak started in the front (2017 XLT tow package) a bit different but almost the same. Only problem left with a bit larger bolt than the two found on the auxiliary cooler from the long line and can’t find for the life of me where it goes but no leaks…
I tried replacing the trans line at the quick connect and it just was not gonna happen, I gave up. I'm not a mechanic but sure wish I would have thought about replacing the aux lines shown here. Thanks for another great video Brian, I feel confident this method i can do.
Update: Just finished the job, without a lift snaking in the new line proved to be a challenge. Had to walk away a couple of times but eventually figured out the angle it needed. Mine showed no signs of corrosion or leaking but being an 09 with 294k I figured it was well invested insurance. Thanks again Brian.
I inherited a 2014 F150 from my dad. He lived about 2 hours from you in downstate Illinois. 80,000 miles, no issues, great shape. The lines were pristine, nothing on them. I replaced them anyway, about $400 and 3 hours. These lines do vibrate as they are mounted to the engine. It is probably fatigue failure with the heat pressure and vibration. I was not going to take any changes of driving down the freeway and burn up the transmission. Thanks so much for what you do, I have learned so much.
On my 2010 4.6 I used a pair of oil resistant rubber lines going direct from the radiator to the transmission via the frame past the driver side strut. That was about 6 years ago and still working fine.
AN8 braided hose fits 1/2" OD line, so that's a neat idea. I've done something similar on a car with a transplant TH350 and I like to use Oetiker clamps.
I have a 2010 F-150 with the 4.6 and when I come to a complete stop when I go to take off the transmission is not running through first-year like it should it's like hesitant but once I get up The Little Speed it takes care of it and then went to-second it runs like it should so when I stopped at a red light I put it in park turn it off turn it back on and it would take off like it should a wrench showed up on the diagnostic screen
Thanks for taking your time to educate us on our vehicles. I just bought a 2012 F-150 and the line behind the grill was split 90% where it is crimped. Caught just in time. Thank You!
I have a 2014 Expedition 6R80 that has these same cooler line connectors. I don't know if they blow off or not, but I am not taking any chances. I came up with a way to make sure they don't blow off. I used 4 screw down hose clamps and plumbers steel tape to hold the two connections together. It was easy to do. They are now secure and won't blow off. Even if they would leak some they are not blowing off. Leaks I can deal with, blown off lines I can't deal with. Also I would like to commend the engineer that come up with these click together connectors. Probably got an award for saving 30 seconds on the assembly line.
Excellent detailed instruction. Thanks, Brian for sharing. Good camerawork too. Alex? 👍🏼👏🏼 Sorry for the poor dude from Texas! Dang, that bites the big one. Trying to be proactive too.
I just did these in my 2013 6.2 a few weeks ago. Man I love my 6.2 but for this job the 5.0 would’ve been nice. 6.2 is very similar except the engine seems to much lower, I had practically no room between the oil pan and starter wire bundle and the crossmember. Also the front bracket attached to the lower corner timing cover stud, which also has the starter wire bundle attached. And when loosening the nut off the stud, it just wanted to take the stud out with it, got it done, but the 5.0 design a lot easier for sure
Thanks for sharing this. I was thanking about doing this change on my 14’ F150 with 114k on it that I use for work. I looked under the truck yesterday and saw one of the crimps was split (and seeping fluid), just like this truck in the video. I immediately called my mechanic and brought it in same day. All the info you share has saved me literally thousands in costly repairs. Is this a problem for the super duty’s too? Thank you!
I watched all the way through and your explanations are top notch and thorough, Brian. Oh, and I don't even have any Ford cars ;-) On my Colorado, at approx. 30c, there's a plug in the pan that threads into a tube and when at that temp, once the fluid starts to dribble for a while, you're all set.
Very good video! You've helped many by sharing your quality workmanship, including me. And perfect camerawork, BTW. I'm wondering, have you ever added a conventional dipstick and housing to the newer Fords that aren't equipped with one? Thank you so much for this, seriously.
Agree, he’s one of the best I’ve seen giving instructional videos. Have watched for quiet awhile but thought I’d hang around today on several videos and show some love. This video here though is something else.
I'm at 265k on my 2011 5.0 I've had the Trans out 3 time now since I've owned the truck and this is my next preventative maintenance item thanks for the Info.
Great info to share 👍🏻 Had my 2014 f150 cooler line (fortunately) break in my driveway while I was changing oil.I bumped cooler line with my elbow as I was changing filter and it just broke at disconnect, I was able (after some effort) to remove the pressed sleeve and tube out of the rubber portion of cooler line slide it back over the line from external cooler and clamp it till I received new lines from ford not a hard job on a lift
From what I have researched, there is no guarantee that the new line sets are any better than the original. I read a forum where guys have removed all the short lines in front of the radiator and installed rubber 1/2" trans hose from the metal lines near the frame directly to the radiator and cooler, eliminating points of failure such as the two couplings and the pressed on rubber hoses. That is how Ford does it on the Crown Victoria. Unless the metal tubing from the trans is damaged, why replace it? Plus installing new lines just creates a new time bomb. When will it break again? 15K? 25K? This video recommends replacing them asap so what difference does it make? There's no clear reason why it happens.
I have a 2000 Ford Expedition with 142,000 miles, and I still watch them all too. Brian is a talented fellow. Thankfully, no salt rust down here in Louisiana.
Watched all 3 of your videos in regards to this. I’m glad I caught this video. I was about to do my transmission fluid filter change and fluid flush. And i couldn’t remember the torque spec on the pan bolts. So when to your video description to get it. And then caught this video. I’m in Texas with a 2012 3.5/6r80 with 235,000 on my original cooler lines. Guess I’ll get those done now while I’m add it. Crazy. I guess I’m lucky i made it this long on the original ones by the sound of it
Did mine today. 2010 Platinum 5.4L. Everything went as expected; glad I'm done. Only advice I have would be to buy the two plastic caps that join the cooler hoses to the large lines to the transmission. I carefully tried to remove both, and broke both. Waiting for new ones to be delivered.
Thanks for the warning on these. I changed all three parts tonight as well as the trans. fluid and filter on my 2013 F150 3.5L 2wd w/ 80k miles. This was the first time I was thankful not to have the 4x4.
Informative videos. Replaced my lines this weekend, April 1, and was piece of cake. One regrete was not ordering two new plastic line locks. Yes I broke one and being on a weekend it stopped me dead in my tracks. I live in Hawaii and my truck has around 65,000k miles and taking your advice I wanted to be proactive and potentially avoid having to replace a burned up transmission. Things are a lot more expensive here compared to the mainland so thank you again for putting out these videos.
I have a 2010 F150, changed the spark plugs, started on the passenger side, went to the driver side, noticed my dipstick tube was rotted away ( that's a whole different story) started up to move the truck back I get out and see oil on the ground. I spent almost 600.00 on parts and tools to do all these jobs! I still don't have a Dipstick tube. I'll change oil every 3 months. I used right stuff to seal the hole at the block. Too rusty to try and start pulling things off. I'll trade it in. Thanks for making this video !
Brian, any chance you could post a video on just replacing the quick connects with the appropriate hosing and clamps? I know there are the other two lines also but I see others have gone this route and would really like to know how to do it properly. I am not wild about replacing the main line with a new one that could also fail sooner or later. Keep the excellent videos coming, you are a national treasure.
The problem is you would need a flaring tool for the lines that were cut and I don't think someone is going to buy an expensive flaring tool for one job..
I have been looking at small on the vehicle flaring tools for brake lines but none seem to be available for 1/2 inch tubing for the trans lines. Same for small tube benders. As stated I would rather replace the quick connects with tubing and unions, then never have to worry again about failures. The prices for the above tools are reasonable for the brake lines. My other two lines are pristine. Do the same tools exist for 1/2 inch lines? Keep up the excellent videos!
I just removed the front dust covers and wind skirt air dam. Only issue I had is my front passenger axle didn't want to drop. I had to really pull on it to get the lines thru. My grandpas helped
If you ever do it again Jack up the drivers side lower control arm and the axle will come down. I had the same issue even tried to pry down on the axle and it would always pop up. I jacked up the control arm and the axle would drop every time I would raise the Jack under the control arm
Thank you for the information. I’ve used your videos to help me troubleshoot and maintain my used 2011 Expedition. Even with the 5.4 Triton I feel better keeping it going. Regarding the transmission cooker lines, I thought I was good after watching your previous video and checking my cooler lines. Ill be looking into ordering the three lines to do the proactive replacement now. 👍👍👍
I've got a 2011 F-150 5.0 which has 68k miles that on warm days the trans over heats because it's one of the odd models with no auxiliary cooler. I'm going to take the opportunity to change the lines and install a cooler which I have to imagine should solve the problem. Thank you for a solid how-to video!
Looks like a great time to drop the transmission pan at the same time and do a fluid change. 2014 F150 3.5 with 103K miles. Will change my lines when it warms up. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for this video and the detailed information! Only made it 2 miles and my truck died on my because of this leak. Didn’t make it far or smell anything burning so hopefully I can top everything back off and not have transmission issues
Just want to say a huge thanks for your videos about this issue. I recently got a 2011 with close to 300,000 on it. Haven't even started driving it as a daily. I'm definitely going to be addressing this before doing so. Keep up the good work. We need more honest mechanics out there. Like yourself. Too many shade tree, and crooks out there giving good mechanics a bad name!
Great video. Thanks for the information. My job went smooth until the spot welds on the driver side front diff nut broke. It was fun trying to fix that, but all Is good now.
Hey thank you for making this video I looked at mine and the crimps are all split.I live in southern California so its not just the weather. 2014 5.0 103K miles
Thank You for making this - I did the lines, a new cooler and a filter on my 2012 over the weekend. I haven't run the trans up to temp yet but the cooler stayed cold for the short time I drove the truck. 6 quarts out and 7.5 quarts in. Pan bolt removal was pretty sweaty for a few. Required much patience to get them out in one piece.
Just had mine replaced a month or two ago. The rubber o ring was bad and the metal part was cracked and leaking a little. Thank God the transmission was fine. Caught it just in time. Cost me 800 bucks.it’s a 2013 with the 5.0
A very clear video on how to do this work. My only concern would be doing it at home, on the garage floor. I would think it a major pita simply because of the use of jack stands, floor jacks... and then having to put the truck in a nose down with the rear wheels in the air to run through the gears. Probably not a safe prospect... what do you think, is it doable in the average home garage with jack stands and a floor jack?
Thanks for the excellent step by step. I think you mentioned this was for years up to 2014 that have the 6R80 trans. I have a 2016 f150 XLT 5.0. will this truck have similar issues also or are the lines manufactured differently to alleviate this issue.
I think he meant he's seen the issue up to those model years not that it won't eventually happen. I'd just replace them around the 100k mark, I'm at around 220k and about to do mine.
Just changed the lines on my 2010 FX2. Old ones seemed fine still after all these years and 273,000kms of mainly short trips. Whatever, aftermarket lines were not that much and I see that the ends are steel on them, not aluminum like original. At least I don’t have to worry about them now. Trick not mentioned here… to remove the line ends I used a propane torch until I was able to pull the old ones off. I didn’t change the connection lines to the heat exchanger. Just a tip for those out there doing this themselves.
Awesome video! I did my lines last spring after watching your initial video on this. Thanks for the dipstick lesson too. Very inconvenient position for checking.
Is there a future-proof way of doing this? It seems preferable to fix it in a way that would prevent it from being able to happen again, as opposed to planning on changing them again after another 100k if the design has not been improved.
Someone had commented to cut part of the line that runs from the transmission to where it switches over to the rubber hose. Run a heater hose or oil resistant hose put maybe 2 clamps on there then run it up to the secondary line going into the cooler and use, again, another 2 clamps that way you get rid of the quick connects all together.
7:07 Yikes. This seems like more of a rust state issue (for the most part). My 2014 with 168,000 miles near Cincinnati doesn't look anywhere near that corroded/rusty on the engine and so on. I checked the fittings shown at the 7:07 point in the video and mine still look clean and unswollen. Yeah, I know it's still 'possible' to break but I'm glad to see it doesn't look anything like this. I've taken to spraying a little lube on this joint to make sure no corrosion forms. Would I like to swap mine out right now and also get a timing chain replacement (I have no noise yet), sure. But you know... $$$$$
Your video is super informative thank you much. My wife’s 2017 gt premium is a little bit different as far as how it’s connected to the trans… just need to be careful when getting the new lines.
Base Numbers for the Ford parts Required:
7BO28
7BO28
7R081
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i was going to say that the 7R081 part number wasn't shown on the diagram on the video @15:25 but i see it here in the comments. the long in/out tubing.
also instead of scoring the black tubing lines to remove them, couldnt you try applying some heat gun heat to soften them up, and then removing them that way? thats how i remove sprinkler lines from barbed connectors
Seriously, does this affect 2009-2014 Expeditions? I have a 2009 Expedition (El Limited) with the same line setup as this, should I worry about it or does it only affect the F150?
You are awesome brother hope all is well for you and your family 👌😎
@@WraithCustomsFirearms I’d keep an eye on them and look them over. That’s how I found mine was leaking
@@ronniespring8888 where was your line leaking?
Thanks a million for the ‘how to’ video. I took mine to a nearby dealer who said these lines aren’t meant to be replaced. They wanted to jack up the motor to replace the lines and charge me 5 hours labor.
I sent them your video and they said it would take them two-three hours. You saved me 2-3 hours labor and taught the dealer ‘specialist’ a lesson.
Lmao! And you let them fix it?
I changed them on my 2012 5.0 two weeks ago with 118,000 miles. I felt like I was gambling until I changed them. Thanks for bringing this to my attention. Once again you have saved my butt. LOVE this channel!
I have the same truck as You, the lines were still good or not? Thanks
@@GinoB09, i think you just need to just look if they are starting to fray, see the video at 7:11 mark
@@robertzarzycki7003 Yes, that would be a visible indication but apparently they just snap with no obvious sign sometimes.
2014 6.2--I just replaced the lines and the cooler @111000, the transmission. seems to run a few degrees lower
Did you have to put truck on a lift
Best ford mechanic on UA-cam
By a landslide
You know them all?
I just performed this on a 2014 5.0 F150 2wd. Guys this is a surprisingly very easy project to do. Don't be overwhelmed by taking it on. Everything went as planned and it was very straightforward. I believe I lost three quarters of a quart of transmission fluid doing this. At least that's what I had to put back in on the hot start measurement. Big thanks to Brian you are the man and continue to be for many of us!
Thanks for the comment! I was starting to get a bit overwhelmed with this and thought I’d have to pay a fortune to have mine replaced at a shop.
How long did this take you?
90m?
@@71rcode72 Awesome! Did you have access to a lift or did you just do it by lifting the front end? Wasn’t sure how easy it might be to fish the lines out if you didn’t have a lift and were limited in space under the truck
I just put railroad tie blocks under the front tires that was all the clearance I needed
@@71rcode72 Good deal. I appreciate you responding! Gonna tackle it next weekend
I've watched many of your videos and I have to say that yours are by far the best on YT. Thanks so much for posting, especially this one. I have a 2012 F150 with 190k miles on it and I have often commented that the transmission is my only real worry. No issues other than age. So after seeing this and the related warning video you did, I inspected mine and the crimp on the right side main line is split completely through! The only thing holding the rubber hose to the line is corrosion and luck. I just ordered the parts and will be replacing in the driveway this weekend. Every other weekend on average we make the 260 mile each way journey to our lake home. I think you saved me from being stranded on the road with a burnt up transmission!!!! Now I like you even more. Keep up the great work!
Your video saved me. Bought a used 2013 F150. Saw your video. Went right out and checked my lines. Caught it just as one of the fittings started to leak. Parked until I could get the lines changed. Your videos are great.
Holy 💩! Yesterday I was doing this exact job on my 2012. I was looking all over for some videos and specifically for one of yours and was like... Come on fordtech... Can't believe you haven't made this video yet... You're making me loco... And then bam! Not 24 hours later and here it is! I have goosebumps.
Thank you so much for all that you do!!! I changed mine last night at 137k on my '13 5.0 4wd. I wanted to get it done before I drove a lot for Christmas. Now I have one less thing to worry about. And if it wasn't for your videos, I wouldn't know it was needed, or how to do it, and what steps to take. It took me 4 hours including driving home, loading up my tools, then driving back to my warehouse (level indoor floor / heated) doing the job, loading everything up and going home. The hardest part was getting the transmission o rings to get aligned and in.
I don't have a lift, so I jacked my truck up and put it on jack stands. I took the axle bolts out, but it didn't move very much. I definitely didn't get the bushing to go under the metal, so I snaked the old one out and put the new one in. Maybe because mine has a 2.5in leveling block in the front it was easy? If I was helping a friend, an we had no lift, but his truck was lifted, I'd probably try it without the jack stands and floor jack.
For my truck I started at parts.ford.com/shop/en/us and put my VIN in, then searched for the transmission cooler and found the parts below. Then I called 2 local dealerships and compared their prices + shipping to www.fairwayfordparts.net/ and Fairway saved me over $100.
CL3Z-7R081-A Cooler Pipe
9L3Z-7B028-F Lower Return Pipe
9L3Z-7B028-G Front Press Tube
I was wondering if anyone was able to do this on jack stands. Wasn't sure if you needed the clearance of a hoist. Looks like you were successful. Thanks for posting this.
@@handyandy2112 no problem at all. It really wasn’t hard, you’ve just gotta be slow and smooth
@@cro-cro At 61 I've got the first part down pat (slow) 😊. Still won't shy away from any work on my 2012. Thanks again.
Did you need to drop the front axle and sway bar?
@@jkk1682 it’s been a while and I can’t remember exactly. I think I jacked the truck up and took out the axle bolts but hardly pushed it down any. If I was to do it again I don’t think I would lift it or take the axle bolt out.
I was camping this summer in New Mexico and happened to see an earlier video on this problem. So I crawled under my 2014 Expedition (120K miles) and sure enough the crimp on both lines were split worse than this video. I'm from Michigan so was thinking with the crimps oriented vertically that water gets in there and freezes splitting the crimp.
I took the truck to a Ford dealer in NM and it was a 3-4 wait for the parts so the mechanic cut of the crimps and put 2 hose clamps on each hose to get me on my way. It was nervous trip back to Michigan.
I had them replaced and the transmission shop said they replace a lot of transmissions because of this problem. Thanks for the great videos and keeping me from getting stranded.
And here I was feeling pretty good because I live in a non corrosive state TX to be exact and Brian here ruined my moment. Thanks Brian. Nice name
Just replaced all 3 lines on my 2013 f150 3.5 ecoboost, did on my driveway on 2 jackstands, no need to remove anything, everything slides in and out in one piece.. need 2 people to slide pipes in and out: one in front to guide and one in back to feed it. Replaced lines, added 7qts in my case and everything good! Would still watch the video to know what u kinda doing, has very nice camera angles
Did yours take 7 quarts because you did a pan drop/filter replace?
Had my local Ford guy do this on my 2011 F150 3.7 with 178,000 miles. They suggested replacing the clips which I did. I could have done it myself but the cost to have them do the work didn't motivate me to tackle it. Thanks for the video always great advice and instruction whether I do it myself or have someone else do it.
@@Nabsolute_ I think it was about $875. It helps I am friends with the local Ford Dealership owner. I know I don't get over charged. As an added bonus he picks it up on his way into work and drops it off when it's repaired. I've never had major issues with my F-150. I have always tried to do preventative maintenance. I just ordered a 2024 Ranger and I'm keeping my fingers crossed it will be as dependable.
When this man shows you what to fix , I am buying parts today 👌👍🙏
He hasn't shown a picture of my wife yet.
@@alphaomega8373 bro 😜🤙
Totally agree on that!
Changed these lines on my 2014 F150 5.0 (2wd, 91K) which was MUCH easier than the 4wd's. I changed the trans oil & filter at the end of this process, just wanted to make a single mess while I was under the truck. I imagine this could have been a very expensive trans repair otherwise. Thanks for the excellant video content and quality.
Recently did this on my ‘09 5.4L-3v SCrew FX4 as a result of Brian’s earlier warnings. The crimps were split, though not as bad. I also had a black plastic protector that the starter wire was mounted in that I had to remove. It was a PITA, but worth the peace of mind! Thank you again for saving us all a bunch of money, especially this day in age!
Did you have to put truck on a lift
I didn’t as I don’t have a lift. I did put the front up on ramps though. To make more room, I used 4-wheel drive to back the front up on them. Unfortunately, mine was a little more involved. I had to remove the power steering rack bolts and loosen the transfer case to wiggle the lines out, the ‘09s seem to be an odd duck, built a little different than the others.
@@sx300pilot5 thank you
I had to remove that too. The bracket on mine was broke off and couldn’t find where it mounted.It was a stud holding the plastic bracket on followed by a nut to hold the trans bracket on. The stud broke and I haven’t been able to find a part number on it. Definitely was a PITA
I saw this video so I looked and mine were cracked so bad I don't know why they haven't blown. This video saved me thousands
I just did this job a few days ago. 2010 F150 5.4L. You will definitely have to drop the sway bar and front axles as show in this video. The clearance above the front axle is so tight I couldn't pass the new lines through until I dropped it down! As long as you follow the steps in order, this is a pretty straight forward job. Good luck to you
Did you have to lift the truck/get the wheels off the ground?
You will have to lift the truck at least a few inches. Extra ground clearance will make your life a lot easier under there.@@user-pu6lp8ig9l
So it's also a great time to the oil pan gasket on the 5.0 if it's leaking because the same parts of the driveline, etc need to be dropped to do that task.
Outstanding video! I was tooling along in my 2013 F150 (3.5L TT flex fuel, 145k miles) when I got a maintenance warning and noticed that the transmission temperature was redlined. Pulled over and shut it down. While waiting for a tow, I uncoupled the trailer and found the front of it coated in oil. Knew right away what had happened. Didn't know what to do to fix it.
This video was *perfect*. 2 days later (had to wait for some parts), it is up and running again, with no apparent damage. Trans. fluid was clear and clean with no burnt smell, so I didn't drop the pan to inspect. Took 6.5 quarts of ATF to get it back up to level though!
Thank you FordTechMakuloco for an awesome instructional video!
Oh yeah: One of the two jumpers had sheared clean in two right where it enters to quick-connect fitting.
Nice detailed video. I just did my 2011 F-150 with the 5.0 engine. I had my truck on ramps. If you first remove the solid steel lines front mounting bracket, you don’t need to lower the axle or sway bar. After you snake the lines from the transmission forward, reattach the front mounting bracket.
@@kennethmartin436 how hard was it to remove that bracket?
@ Not difficult if you have a little bit of mechanical aptitude.
Man I must say this is the best video I've seen showing how to do this job great work and thanks gonna do this job myself.
I must say this is like the 6th video of this channel I've seen today. I LOVE IT THANK YOU.
Just dropping by to say thanks. I started checking mine after I saw this video and noticed when I was changing the oil that one of the crimps started to crack. So glad I caught it!! Thanks again
I have a 2014 F150 3.5L with 150,000 miles on it. I have never looked at the cooling lines on it. Thank you for this video. You may have just saved me a new transmission man.
Did you end up changing it ?
@kevincubias8441 no. I looked at the quick connects and everything looks fine. I just keep an eye on them now. If I notice any corrosion I'll get it taken care of then.
@@matthonea2142ever do anything with them? I’m worried about them on my 2012 5.0 with 151k
Just changed my last week 417.000 miles 2011 5.0 150 great truck
417K 😳😲😲😲 That is awesome!!
Currently at 132K on my 2011 King Ranch…that gives me hope!
Got 314k on mine. They look great to me. I see no reason to change mine.
First of all thank you, your video informing us of the fault in the connectors made me inspect mine. SO I replaced all of them from transmission to the cooler and back. Every one that you said to replace. Did it last August and no leaks no problems. Same split on my 13. I also put in a new cooler as well. I also installed a transmission dipstick.
Where did you get a transmission dip stick and how much did you have to pay? I thought these trans worked with a vacuum that's why they didn't come with dip stick.
@@porschmn B&M around 220.00. And it's a sealed unit.
@@J_J_Ander Thanks
Did you have to put truck on lift
@@lyleswavel320nope. On my back in the driveway.
If it helps anyone, I did this job on my garage floor with no issues. I did not drop the sway bar or crossmember. I removed the front bracket on the new lineset and fished the line thought with everything in place. Then i put the bracket back on and secured it to the alternator stud. It was tricky, had to use a mirror and to pliers to bend the tab back down on the bracket but it saved a tone of work. Just my $.02 ...
Which engine type, and 2wd or 4wd?
@@ronc4146 5.0L 4X4
I replaced mine in my driveway last July, I replaced everything, new filter, line sets and cooler with its smaller hose pieces that go to it. I really wish there was a way to show the pictures of my original line set. The compression fitting split and just started to drip. If I hadn't seen his other video I would of had to replace a transmission.
An AMAZING step by step instructional video! This is by far the BEST video I’ve seen on UA-cam. Thank you a million times over! I made sure to subscribe….
I will be dropping my oil pan to replace the seal so this seems the perfect time to replace this line while I’m at it. Thank you for the video. Subscribed
I recently bought a '13 5.0 with 182,000 km. I found one of your other videos on this while researching common 12th Gen problems. I immediately arranged to take the truck in for a transmission service and new lines. Not cheap but definitely less expensive than smoking the trans. And while in there the mechanic noticed a broken clip on the valve body attachment. Big repair avoided.
I see the scammers are out in full force this morning.
@@torinobob They seem to post something about crypto crap on every You Tubers channel
Super helpful vid Brian! God bless you from all Ford truck owners!!!!!
Solid video as always. Thanks for taking the time. I checked my '11 6.2L lines after your last video about this, but I'll be checking again and buying the parts soon! All the best...
I've got an 11 6.2 too. I love mine, fantastic truck.
I got '14 6.2l truck. I love it
Been waiting for this in depth video, can always count on you Brian.
You're a legend! Im doing this as soon as the snow melts. Thanks!!
Just finished replacing waterpump, thermostat, flush/fill, belts, and O-rings on hoses. Next I did the lines and cooler on my 6R80 along with the pan drop/clean, filter, bulkhead sleeve, and pump seal that sits under the valvebody. The very worst part of this job was using a hand pump to put the fluid back in. By the time I was finished I used around 10 quarts and my tranny was at operating temp 🥹. Now I understand why Brian uses an electric pump. I wonder how much all this would have cost at a shop 🤔. Thank you @FordTechMakuloco your knowledge and experience is invaluable to us all.
Mine broke while I was halfway up my driveway. Thank God it wasn't while on the highway. Now I know what I'm doing in a couple days! Thanks for the thorough video and tips!
This was an invaluable video, very well done. I wish all car repair videos went into this level of detailing what to expect. THANK YOU. You made a job I was dreading much less painful.
Well done vid with some good info that could save Ford F-150 owners thousands of dollars and a lot of grief. Sounds like Ford should have recalled these trans cooler lines in favor of a more dependable connection to avoid catastrophic transmission failure.
Thanks for all the info and how to’s you share with us all Brian. With 73k on my 2012 F 150 5.0 I look at the lines regularly. Want to hold off until my next trans fluid change at 80k if possible. After watching this may need to reconsider. Recognizing there is metal fatigue in play I am thankful this truck lived out west it’s entire life where corrosion was not a factor. Great video and camera work by the videographer! 😉👍
2012 3.5 eco here, also in a sunny state with minimal corrosion. at 93k and i think im going to have to do mine too asap
Id wait. My 2014 has 122,000, but replacing them shortly.
I hope that by now you have replaced the lines. My 2013 just hit 70k and I noticed a faint leak around one of the quick connects. I touched it and it broke! Exactly where he shows it in his video. My lines look new! So take his advice and do not wait! This happened a few hours ago in my thankfully in my driveway. I was under the hood looking for a wire to connect a third brake light on a recently purchased cap and noticed the slight stain from the leak. I am going to cut out both quick connects and install rubber trans hose for now, then order the parts and do this on my back!
Watched your video twice to make sure I wasnt missing anything. then jumped into replacing these lines myself. Went perfectly! thank you so much! also, I removed the mounting clip that came on the new lines, slid the new lines in place without removing the front driveline and then put the clip back on the lines and it went so fast (I was very careful not to smash the new lines while doing that). Love being able to work on my truck by myself and knowing that things are done right. You are the best!
I bought the part 6 months ago and procrastinated attacking this job. I did it today and it was easy peasy because i watched this video first. Thanks for the great content.
I ended up taking the bracket off the lines when I was putting the new ones in the little tabs broke, but I ended up using the stainless steel. Screw to clamp it back on. I didn’t need to drop the sway bar and I did take the one bolt out of the axle and it dropped a little bit, but I didn’t have a lift. I was on the concrete outside, but this is a great video
Watched your first video on this subject then seen the second one. Well that was it got mine changed back in November 2013 f150 5.0. If it weren't for you would never had known. Thanks for what you do
Thanks! Used your video to do the job after leak started in the front (2017 XLT tow package) a bit different but almost the same. Only problem left with a bit larger bolt than the two found on the auxiliary cooler from the long line and can’t find for the life of me where it goes but no leaks…
My 2013 with a 5.0 has 220,000 miles on it and never replaced these so I know what I will be doing this weekend! Thanks for an excellent video!
I tried replacing the trans line at the quick connect and it just was not gonna happen, I gave up. I'm not a mechanic but sure wish I would have thought about replacing the aux lines shown here. Thanks for another great video Brian, I feel confident this method i can do.
Update: Just finished the job, without a lift snaking in the new line proved to be a challenge. Had to walk away a couple of times but eventually figured out the angle it needed. Mine showed no signs of corrosion or leaking but being an 09 with 294k I figured it was well invested insurance. Thanks again Brian.
Great video. I am checking mine tomorrow. 126k miles on my 2015 F150 XLT 4X4 and runs like a champ thanks to you. I am looking at the parts now.
Thanks!
Props to the camera person 👌 great job
I inherited a 2014 F150 from my dad. He lived about 2 hours from you in downstate Illinois. 80,000 miles, no issues, great shape. The lines were pristine, nothing on them. I replaced them anyway, about $400 and 3 hours. These lines do vibrate as they are mounted to the engine. It is probably fatigue failure with the heat pressure and vibration. I was not going to take any changes of driving down the freeway and burn up the transmission. Thanks so much for what you do, I have learned so much.
I never call it OCD. I call it doing the job right!!
How unlucky do you gotta be to have your lines blow on your way to get your lines changed. Holy smokes
Is Ford currently still using these faulty quick connects or have they been redesigned?
On my 2010 4.6 I used a pair of oil resistant rubber lines going direct from the radiator to the transmission via the frame past the driver side strut. That was about 6 years ago and still working fine.
AN8 braided hose fits 1/2" OD line, so that's a neat idea. I've done something similar on a car with a transplant TH350 and I like to use Oetiker clamps.
Yeah, I was thinking just cut out the quick connect. Cut the rubber hose crimp and replace with a new rubber hose.
I have a 2010 F-150 with the 4.6 and when I come to a complete stop when I go to take off the transmission is not running through first-year like it should it's like hesitant but once I get up The Little Speed it takes care of it and then went to-second it runs like it should so when I stopped at a red light I put it in park turn it off turn it back on and it would take off like it should a wrench showed up on the diagnostic screen
This is the best fix from what I have read.
Thanks for taking your time to educate us on our vehicles. I just bought a 2012 F-150 and the line behind the grill was split 90% where it is crimped. Caught just in time. Thank You!
I have a 2014 Expedition 6R80 that has these same cooler line connectors. I don't know if they blow off or not, but I am not taking any chances. I came up with a way to make sure they don't blow off. I used 4 screw down hose clamps and plumbers steel tape to hold the two connections together. It was easy to do. They are now secure and won't blow off. Even if they would leak some they are not blowing off. Leaks I can deal with, blown off lines I can't deal with. Also I would like to commend the engineer that come up with these click together connectors. Probably got an award for saving 30 seconds on the assembly line.
Excellent detailed instruction. Thanks, Brian for sharing.
Good camerawork too. Alex? 👍🏼👏🏼
Sorry for the poor dude from Texas! Dang, that bites the big one. Trying to be proactive too.
I just did these in my 2013 6.2 a few weeks ago. Man I love my 6.2 but for this job the 5.0 would’ve been nice. 6.2 is very similar except the engine seems to much lower, I had practically no room between the oil pan and starter wire bundle and the crossmember. Also the front bracket attached to the lower corner timing cover stud, which also has the starter wire bundle attached. And when loosening the nut off the stud, it just wanted to take the stud out with it, got it done, but the 5.0 design a lot easier for sure
Thanks for the informative video! Top notch as always! I did mine prior to the making of this video and I was surprised how easy it was.
Thanks for sharing this. I was thanking about doing this change on my 14’ F150 with 114k on it that I use for work. I looked under the truck yesterday and saw one of the crimps was split (and seeping fluid), just like this truck in the video. I immediately called my mechanic and brought it in same day. All the info you share has saved me literally thousands in costly repairs.
Is this a problem for the super duty’s too?
Thank you!
How much was the total repair cost? My f150 5.0L has 124000 on it.
@@2962Todd $650
I watched all the way through and your explanations are top notch and thorough, Brian. Oh, and I don't even have any Ford cars ;-) On my Colorado, at approx. 30c, there's a plug in the pan that threads into a tube and when at that temp, once the fluid starts to dribble for a while, you're all set.
LMAO AT NOT HAVING ANY FORD CARS
Just saw brian at peppos with his family. Didnt want to bother him, just wanted to say great channel and thanks for the knowledge
Very good video! You've helped many by sharing your quality workmanship, including me. And perfect camerawork, BTW.
I'm wondering, have you ever added a conventional dipstick and housing to the newer Fords that aren't equipped with one? Thank you so much for this, seriously.
I was wondering the same. If there is a dipstick he would recommend.
I added a dipstick from B & M on my 2013.
Agree, he’s one of the best I’ve seen giving instructional videos. Have watched for quiet awhile but thought I’d hang around today on several videos and show some love. This video here though is something else.
I'm at 265k on my 2011 5.0 I've had the Trans out 3 time now since I've owned the truck and this is my next preventative maintenance item thanks for the Info.
Just replace the quick connects with all rubber trans lines with high pressure clamps like it should have been made in the first place.
Great info to share 👍🏻
Had my 2014 f150 cooler line (fortunately) break in my driveway while I was changing oil.I bumped cooler line with my elbow as I was changing filter and it just broke at disconnect, I was able (after some effort) to remove the pressed sleeve and tube out of the rubber portion of cooler line slide it back over the line from external cooler and clamp it till I received new lines from ford not a hard job on a lift
From what I have researched, there is no guarantee that the new line sets are any better than the original. I read a forum where guys have removed all the short lines in front of the radiator and installed rubber 1/2" trans hose from the metal lines near the frame directly to the radiator and cooler, eliminating points of failure such as the two couplings and the pressed on rubber hoses. That is how Ford does it on the Crown Victoria. Unless the metal tubing from the trans is damaged, why replace it? Plus installing new lines just creates a new time bomb. When will it break again? 15K? 25K? This video recommends replacing them asap so what difference does it make? There's no clear reason why it happens.
@@paulb2094 Love that idea! Do you know if anyone makes a "kit" for that?
So would the new lines eventually have the same issue?
I don't own any Ford products, nor am I planning on it, but I still watch these videos.
I have a 2000 Ford Expedition with 142,000 miles, and I still watch them all too. Brian is a talented fellow. Thankfully, no salt rust down here in Louisiana.
Watched all 3 of your videos in regards to this.
I’m glad I caught this video. I was about to do my transmission fluid filter change and fluid flush. And i couldn’t remember the torque spec on the pan bolts. So when to your video description to get it. And then caught this video.
I’m in Texas with a 2012 3.5/6r80 with 235,000 on my original cooler lines. Guess I’ll get those done now while I’m add it. Crazy. I guess I’m lucky i made it this long on the original ones by the sound of it
Thank you so much for these videos! Just noticed my fitting is cracked but no leak yet. Getting parts tomorrow
great job showing and explaining the process. not difficult but it can be channeling if you don't follow the steps.
Did mine today. 2010 Platinum 5.4L. Everything went as expected; glad I'm done. Only advice I have would be to buy the two plastic caps that join the cooler hoses to the large lines to the transmission. I carefully tried to remove both, and broke both. Waiting for new ones to be delivered.
Changed my Ford Raptor today 147,000! Thanks for the tips on how to get it done!
You didn’t miss a thing, man. Great job and thank you.
Thanks for the warning on these. I changed all three parts tonight as well as the trans. fluid and filter on my 2013 F150 3.5L 2wd w/ 80k miles. This was the first time I was thankful not to have the 4x4.
Informative videos. Replaced my lines this weekend, April 1, and was piece of cake. One regrete was not ordering two new plastic line locks. Yes I broke one and being on a weekend it stopped me dead in my tracks. I live in Hawaii and my truck has around 65,000k miles and taking your advice I wanted to be proactive and potentially avoid having to replace a burned up transmission. Things are a lot more expensive here compared to the mainland so thank you again for putting out these videos.
Love your Channel. Keep the great content coming. Greetings from DownUnder.
Great video. I'm getting ready to do this to my 2014 F150, 5.0
I have a 2010 F150, changed the spark plugs, started on the passenger side, went to the driver side, noticed my dipstick tube was rotted away ( that's a whole different story) started up to move the truck back I get out and see oil on the ground. I spent almost 600.00 on parts and tools to do all these jobs! I still don't have a Dipstick tube. I'll change oil every 3 months. I used right stuff to seal the hole at the block. Too rusty to try and start pulling things off. I'll trade it in. Thanks for making this video !
Brian, any chance you could post a video on just replacing the quick connects with the appropriate hosing and clamps? I know there are the other two lines also but I see others have gone this route and would really like to know how to do it properly. I am not wild about replacing the main line with a new one that could also fail sooner or later. Keep the excellent videos coming, you are a national treasure.
The problem is you would need a flaring tool for the lines that were cut and I don't think someone is going to buy an expensive flaring tool for one job..
I have been looking at small on the vehicle flaring tools for brake lines but none seem to be available for 1/2 inch tubing for the trans lines. Same for small tube benders. As stated I would rather replace the quick connects with tubing and unions, then never have to worry again about failures. The prices for the above tools are reasonable for the brake lines. My other two lines are pristine.
Do the same tools exist for 1/2 inch lines? Keep up the excellent videos!
I just completed this today. Pretty easy on ramps. If you remove the front bumper it's even easier.
I just removed the front dust covers and wind skirt air dam. Only issue I had is my front passenger axle didn't want to drop. I had to really pull on it to get the lines thru. My grandpas helped
If you ever do it again Jack up the drivers side lower control arm and the axle will come down. I had the same issue even tried to pry down on the axle and it would always pop up. I jacked up the control arm and the axle would drop every time I would raise the Jack under the control arm
Can the axel bolts be taken out with the wheels on ramps?
@@deanandkay yes, you can do it all on ramps.
I have to hope the new transmission lines are updated and not as fragile. Or, are they simply the exact replacements of what is failing currently?
Right
I just changed mine, preventatively, on my '13 about a week ago. 109000 miles.
Wow , thanks Brian. Would not have tried this without watching this video ! Now I feel confident I can do it myself !…….
Thank you for the information. I’ve used your videos to help me troubleshoot and maintain my used 2011 Expedition. Even with the 5.4 Triton I feel better keeping it going.
Regarding the transmission cooker lines, I thought I was good after watching your previous video and checking my cooler lines. Ill be looking into ordering the three lines to do the proactive replacement now.
👍👍👍
My wallet feels better keeping my 2010 Navigator going. The new ones start around $80K.
Do the new lines hold up any better/longer than OEM? Great videos!!! New follower!
I've got a 2011 F-150 5.0 which has 68k miles that on warm days the trans over heats because it's one of the odd models with no auxiliary cooler. I'm going to take the opportunity to change the lines and install a cooler which I have to imagine should solve the problem. Thank you for a solid how-to video!
Looks like a great time to drop the transmission pan at the same time and do a fluid change. 2014 F150 3.5 with 103K miles. Will change my lines when it warms up. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for this video and the detailed information! Only made it 2 miles and my truck died on my because of this leak. Didn’t make it far or smell anything burning so hopefully I can top everything back off and not have transmission issues
Just want to say a huge thanks for your videos about this issue. I recently got a 2011 with close to 300,000 on it. Haven't even started driving it as a daily. I'm definitely going to be addressing this before doing so. Keep up the good work. We need more honest mechanics out there. Like yourself. Too many shade tree, and crooks out there giving good mechanics a bad name!
Great video. Thanks for the information. My job went smooth until the spot welds on the driver side front diff nut broke. It was fun trying to fix that, but all
Is good now.
Hey thank you for making this video I looked at mine and the crimps are all split.I live in southern California so its not just the weather. 2014 5.0 103K miles
Thank You for making this - I did the lines, a new cooler and a filter on my 2012 over the weekend. I haven't run the trans up to temp yet but the cooler stayed cold for the short time I drove the truck. 6 quarts out and 7.5 quarts in. Pan bolt removal was pretty sweaty for a few. Required much patience to get them out in one piece.
Another great and extremely informative video. Thanks Brian
Just had mine replaced a month or two ago. The rubber o ring was bad and the metal part was cracked and leaking a little. Thank God the transmission was fine. Caught it just in time. Cost me 800 bucks.it’s a 2013 with the 5.0
A very clear video on how to do this work. My only concern would be doing it at home, on the garage floor. I would think it a major pita simply because of the use of jack stands, floor jacks... and then having to put the truck in a nose down with the rear wheels in the air to run through the gears. Probably not a safe prospect... what do you think, is it doable in the average home garage with jack stands and a floor jack?
Apply the brakes so the tires don't turn. You're just wanting to go through the gears and purge any air out of the various internal circuits.
Thanks for the excellent step by step. I think you mentioned this was for years up to 2014 that have the 6R80 trans. I have a 2016 f150 XLT 5.0. will this truck have similar issues also or are the lines manufactured differently to alleviate this issue.
I think he meant he's seen the issue up to those model years not that it won't eventually happen. I'd just replace them around the 100k mark, I'm at around 220k and about to do mine.
Just changed the lines on my 2010 FX2. Old ones seemed fine still after all these years and 273,000kms of mainly short trips. Whatever, aftermarket lines were not that much and I see that the ends are steel on them, not aluminum like original. At least I don’t have to worry about them now.
Trick not mentioned here… to remove the line ends I used a propane torch until I was able to pull the old ones off. I didn’t change the connection lines to the heat exchanger. Just a tip for those out there doing this themselves.
Awesome video! I did my lines last spring after watching your initial video on this. Thanks for the dipstick lesson too. Very inconvenient position for checking.
Is there a future-proof way of doing this? It seems preferable to fix it in a way that would prevent it from being able to happen again, as opposed to planning on changing them again after another 100k if the design has not been improved.
Someone had commented to cut part of the line that runs from the transmission to where it switches over to the rubber hose. Run a heater hose or oil resistant hose put maybe 2 clamps on there then run it up to the secondary line going into the cooler and use, again, another 2 clamps that way you get rid of the quick connects all together.
Great show as always I have a 2010 Lincoln Navigator L 190,000 miles on it do they have the same problem
7:07 Yikes. This seems like more of a rust state issue (for the most part). My 2014 with 168,000 miles near Cincinnati doesn't look anywhere near that corroded/rusty on the engine and so on. I checked the fittings shown at the 7:07 point in the video and mine still look clean and unswollen. Yeah, I know it's still 'possible' to break but I'm glad to see it doesn't look anything like this. I've taken to spraying a little lube on this joint to make sure no corrosion forms. Would I like to swap mine out right now and also get a timing chain replacement (I have no noise yet), sure. But you know... $$$$$
Your video is super informative thank you much. My wife’s 2017 gt premium is a little bit different as far as how it’s connected to the trans… just need to be careful when getting the new lines.