good video very well explain. but i have a question for Nick's can the pump be remove without removing the valve body? i know the filter has to be taken out. thanks in advance
Thanks, Arlos - You may have to remove the bridge seal under the valve body but I can't say for sure as I never tried to remove just the pump without taking everything off the belly of the case prior to doing so...
Hi Sean, thanks for watching...The transmission has to come out for overhaul, especially if it had water in it. Hope there isn't more than superficial surface rust on ferrous metal parts. More than likely, the forward clutch is fried but won't know for sure until it's on the bench and you're going through it.
I stripped my first T6 ranger 4x4 box following your guide. 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th decent acceleration it slips You got any suggestions, the clutch frictions all look good. Valvebody or torque converter problem perhaps or even the bridge seal you referred to? I do have forscan if you have any live data pids to compare
Hi Dallas, thanks for watching. Did you do a case air check before pulling the transmission apart? If so, did all the clutch packs apply like they should have? What do the turbine shaft sealing rings look like? Are they excessively worn, pinched or flattened? If you did all those things and everything looked/tested good, I'd consider hydraulics or torque converter as potential sources of those issues. May also be an intermittent speed sensor issue in the lead frame or solenoid problem.
I’ve also had a groaning/gurgling type sound since my last pan drop about 20000 miles ago. It’s noticeable at parking lot speed or sitting still. It doesn’t it in drive and reverse but noise goes away either in neutral or park
Hi Chad, thanks for watching...That sounds like pump cavitation or something failing in the front of the case (forward, direct drums, front planet failure, etc)...Check fluid level if you haven't already...Too little or too much is equally bad...
It happened after I did the lead frame and I think it was just low on fluid because it went always after 2 more quarts. But this time nothing seams to stop the noise. It’s almost more of a woodpecker sound. You can only hear it at parking lot speed or sitting still.
What are your thoughts on transmission fluid for something like the 6R80? Do you have to go with the Motorcraft Mercon LV or will the Valvoline stuff be fine. I am going to do a pan drop and don’t have a dealership around to get the Motorcraft Mercon LV. What do you use?
Hi, Thank you so much for the information. I am working on a 17 f150 6r80, changing the lead frame on it. Im replacing with a new OEM part from the dealer. the truck was running and driving drive and reverse with just an intermittant p0720 and p0722 codes. after replacing the lead frame the truck would not engage on reverse. the indicator show R and live data as well. its just not moving in reverse at all. Do you have any idea what would be the possible cause of it? thanks in advance
Swap the old lead frame back in to see if you get back reverse function. If so, you've found the problem. What did the fluid look and smell like when you initially dropped the pan? Any burnt clutch material? Reverse is mechanically achieved by the application of the direct and low reverse clutch packs and the direct clutch is a high-rate failure item in those transmissions. Not saying that is your problem (I have no idea at this point) but it's something to consider....
@@nickstransmissions I am in Huntington Beach, I have a 2011 f150 5.0 with the 6r80, 285k I had lead frame problems 3 times, always when hot, decided to run a full flow, added a bigger cooler and disconnected from radiator (never gets below 50 here) since then it never runs above 155 and has been 3 years with no problems. The heat wrecks those plastic lead frames in my opinion, Great Channel Thanks
You're not too far from me so if you ever need it rebuilt, reach out to me via Facebook (link is in this channel's 'about' section). Ford has had numerous recalls associated with that stupid lead frame, mostly due to speed sensor malfunction...Common complaints were extremely harsh upshifts/downshifts and/or no upshift from first gear...
I have a 6r80 with 250000 for the last year I have had a loud squawk on the 3-4 shift and also 4-3 downshifts. The tsb friction modifier did not help. If anything it made it worse. Any ideas?
I'd pull the unit apart and do an inspection as shown here...My guess is either bearing failure in that area or the 4-5-6 clutch hub is starting to fail...Could be any number of things, to be honest as I'm interpreting the word 'squawk' as used above to sound like some sort of bird sound...At 250k miles, it's going to need to be rebuilt sooner rather than later... Make sure you replace the lead frame, spacer plate and all the solenoids w/OEM Ford new. Install the Sonnax Zip kit as well...Watch my complete rebuild series and valve body overhaul series on this unit for guidance - acquire a good fixture to mount the transmission as well as the requisite special tools, ATSG manual if they're not already in your possession. Ask questions in the rebuild series videos as they arise.
Hello Nick. This is a great video. Question, my 2014 f150 snapped the transmission line off and I lost 8 quarts of fluid on the freeway. Fixed line and filled it up, Now it slips or doesn’t down shift correctly. Any temp fix to improve the shifting while I save up for a rebuild (pull valve body and clean ports etc)? Also contemplating a ETE remanned from Autozone. Just trying to stretch out having to pull the tranny right now. Thanks again awesome video.
Hi Ryan, thank you for watching and your kind words...Here's my responses to your questions: 1. Temp fixes: Unfortunately, there really isn't anything you can do if the transmission is slipping if it was behaving perfectly normal prior to the cooler line snapping off - more than one clutch pack was likely severely damaged and unit will need to come out; front pump may have also been scored and valve body impaired 2. Autozone Transmissions: Everything you ever wanted to know about whether or not you should buy an Autozone transmission and torque converter can be viewed here: ua-cam.com/video/uNBPatT1E7M/v-deo.html I would have a competent builder go through the transmission, rebuilding it with all the requisite updates and enhancements - check out my 6R80 Rebuild Series for more info: ua-cam.com/play/PLMqgQ_reThtKmjEGphcZc-lhCJhNRWHCF.html
Hey Nick, quick question: I recently rebuilt an old TH350 transmission and the output shaft, while I am able to turn it by hand, doesn't turn very smoothly. I am unsure whether I need to disassemble it again and look for tight spots on the bushings or whatever. It would spin quite nicely up until I have the input shaft and drums installed, and the input shaft spins nice and free and has .020" endplay. Any advice?
Hi Josh - please do me a favor and post your question in my TH350 rebuild video: ua-cam.com/video/VGqhyuxhA_M/v-deo.html I would like to keep this vid's comments focused on the Ford 6R80. As soon as I see it come through on the TH350 video, I'll respond there and remove this one. Thanks!
Both are true - they are not the same but very closely related and in the case of the 6L/6R, both are based on the ZF6HP26 transmission and both Ford and GM produced their respective 6-speed automatics under license from ZF (applies to the 8-speeds as well)...The 10-speed units are the product of a joint GM-Ford engineering collaboration where the intent was to address all the design/functional weaknesses inherent within the ZF platform while keeping a common architecture for supply chain streamline and economies of scale.
@@nickstransmissions oh I will definitely be watching more than once. There is a lot going on but I think the rebuild will be a lot easier than pulling it out of the truck. 4x4 doesn’t make it easier by the looks of it. Great work my man.
Sounds good, man...Yes it can be a pain in the ass dealing with that transfer case/front drive shaft but once they're out of the way it's not too bad. I film and publish a special tools video on these in the next week or so this way you know what you really need to complete the rebuild (if you go strictly by the ATSG manual, you'll end up spending millions of dollars in special tools, lol).
Lol...You willingly, knowingly clicked onto a two-and-a-half-hour video and watched it. Then you bitch about it being 'HARD' to watch? Hilarious!!! Did someone force you to sit through it for those 2+ hours at gunpoint? If not, I guess you're new to YT and didn't realize the run time is displayed on all videos in the bottom right corner of the thumbnail. Whether you watched it under duress or not, thanks for the view - helps me regardless how painful it was for you.
Great video- I think your videos are the best out there. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, Manof777 - appreciate the kind words!
Good afternoon nick your videos are better than sitting in a class room
Good afternoon, John. Thank you for the kind words!
Excellent video. I am eagerly awaiting your valve body vacuum test.
Thank you, Larry!
That valve body video will likely be a two or three-part mini series as there's alot to it...
WOW, thanks for taking the time to make such a top quality videos and sharing your knowledge. Your videos are gold. 👍
Thank you for the view and kind words, narc46! Appreciate it🍻
good video very well explain. but i have a question for
Nick's can the pump be remove without removing the valve body? i know the filter has to be taken out. thanks in advance
Thanks, Arlos - You may have to remove the bridge seal under the valve body but I can't say for sure as I never tried to remove just the pump without taking everything off the belly of the case prior to doing so...
I have reverse and no forward. Lead frame and valve body replaced. Trans had water in it when I got it.
Hi Sean, thanks for watching...The transmission has to come out for overhaul, especially if it had water in it. Hope there isn't more than superficial surface rust on ferrous metal parts. More than likely, the forward clutch is fried but won't know for sure until it's on the bench and you're going through it.
@@nickstransmissions Thanks man. appreciate the info on the strategy and coinciding serial numbers as well. subbed / liked
Awesome, thanks Sean!
I stripped my first T6 ranger 4x4 box following your guide.
2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th decent acceleration it slips
You got any suggestions, the clutch frictions all look good.
Valvebody or torque converter problem perhaps or even the bridge seal you referred to? I do have forscan if you have any live data pids to compare
Hi Dallas, thanks for watching. Did you do a case air check before pulling the transmission apart? If so, did all the clutch packs apply like they should have? What do the turbine shaft sealing rings look like? Are they excessively worn, pinched or flattened? If you did all those things and everything looked/tested good, I'd consider hydraulics or torque converter as potential sources of those issues. May also be an intermittent speed sensor issue in the lead frame or solenoid problem.
I’ve also had a groaning/gurgling type sound since my last pan drop about 20000 miles ago. It’s noticeable at parking lot speed or sitting still. It doesn’t it in drive and reverse but noise goes away either in neutral or park
Does it in drive or reverse
Hi Chad, thanks for watching...That sounds like pump cavitation or something failing in the front of the case (forward, direct drums, front planet failure, etc)...Check fluid level if you haven't already...Too little or too much is equally bad...
It happened after I did the lead frame and I think it was just low on fluid because it went always after 2 more quarts. But this time nothing seams to stop the noise. It’s almost more of a woodpecker sound. You can only hear it at parking lot speed or sitting still.
I’ve tried checking the fluid level at operation temperature but I never get a clean reading cause the dipstick has fluid splashed all over it
What are your thoughts on transmission fluid for something like the 6R80? Do you have to go with the Motorcraft Mercon LV or will the Valvoline stuff be fine. I am going to do a pan drop and don’t have a dealership around to get the Motorcraft Mercon LV. What do you use?
Hi Lukin, any Mercon LV fluid will be fine, including Valvoline. It's all the same stuff.
Hi, Thank you so much for the information. I am working on a 17 f150 6r80, changing the lead frame on it. Im replacing with a new OEM part from the dealer. the truck was running and driving drive and reverse with just an intermittant p0720 and p0722 codes. after replacing the lead frame the truck would not engage on reverse. the indicator show R and live data as well. its just not moving in reverse at all. Do you have any idea what would be the possible cause of it? thanks in advance
Swap the old lead frame back in to see if you get back reverse function. If so, you've found the problem.
What did the fluid look and smell like when you initially dropped the pan? Any burnt clutch material?
Reverse is mechanically achieved by the application of the direct and low reverse clutch packs and the direct clutch is a high-rate failure item in those transmissions. Not saying that is your problem (I have no idea at this point) but it's something to consider....
Really great videos, what state are you in? Thanks
Thanks, Mashdatrashvideos, appreciate the view and kind words...I'm in Vegas - where are you located?
@@nickstransmissions I am in Huntington Beach, I have a 2011 f150 5.0 with the 6r80, 285k I had lead frame problems 3 times, always when hot, decided to run a full flow, added a bigger cooler and disconnected from radiator (never gets below 50 here) since then it never runs above 155 and has been 3 years with no problems. The heat wrecks those plastic lead frames in my opinion, Great Channel Thanks
You're not too far from me so if you ever need it rebuilt, reach out to me via Facebook (link is in this channel's 'about' section). Ford has had numerous recalls associated with that stupid lead frame, mostly due to speed sensor malfunction...Common complaints were extremely harsh upshifts/downshifts and/or no upshift from first gear...
I have a 6r80 with 250000 for the last year I have had a loud squawk on the 3-4 shift and also 4-3 downshifts. The tsb friction modifier did not help. If anything it made it worse. Any ideas?
I hear about people rebuilding the E clutch and even replacing the transmission and they still have the squawk after.
I'd pull the unit apart and do an inspection as shown here...My guess is either bearing failure in that area or the 4-5-6 clutch hub is starting to fail...Could be any number of things, to be honest as I'm interpreting the word 'squawk' as used above to sound like some sort of bird sound...At 250k miles, it's going to need to be rebuilt sooner rather than later...
Make sure you replace the lead frame, spacer plate and all the solenoids w/OEM Ford new. Install the Sonnax Zip kit as well...Watch my complete rebuild series and valve body overhaul series on this unit for guidance - acquire a good fixture to mount the transmission as well as the requisite special tools, ATSG manual if they're not already in your possession.
Ask questions in the rebuild series videos as they arise.
@@nickstransmissionssounds good thank you
Hello Nick. This is a great video. Question, my 2014 f150 snapped the transmission line off and I lost 8 quarts of fluid on the freeway. Fixed line and filled it up, Now it slips or doesn’t down shift correctly. Any temp fix to improve the shifting while I save up for a rebuild (pull valve body and clean ports etc)? Also contemplating a ETE remanned from Autozone. Just trying to stretch out having to pull the tranny right now. Thanks again awesome video.
Hi Ryan, thank you for watching and your kind words...Here's my responses to your questions:
1. Temp fixes: Unfortunately, there really isn't anything you can do if the transmission is slipping if it was behaving perfectly normal prior to the cooler line snapping off - more than one clutch pack was likely severely damaged and unit will need to come out; front pump may have also been scored and valve body impaired
2. Autozone Transmissions: Everything you ever wanted to know about whether or not you should buy an Autozone transmission and torque converter can be viewed here: ua-cam.com/video/uNBPatT1E7M/v-deo.html
I would have a competent builder go through the transmission, rebuilding it with all the requisite updates and enhancements - check out my 6R80 Rebuild Series for more info: ua-cam.com/play/PLMqgQ_reThtKmjEGphcZc-lhCJhNRWHCF.html
Hey Nick, quick question: I recently rebuilt an old TH350 transmission and the output shaft, while I am able to turn it by hand, doesn't turn very smoothly. I am unsure whether I need to disassemble it again and look for tight spots on the bushings or whatever. It would spin quite nicely up until I have the input shaft and drums installed, and the input shaft spins nice and free and has .020" endplay. Any advice?
Hi Josh - please do me a favor and post your question in my TH350 rebuild video: ua-cam.com/video/VGqhyuxhA_M/v-deo.html
I would like to keep this vid's comments focused on the Ford 6R80. As soon as I see it come through on the TH350 video, I'll respond there and remove this one.
Thanks!
2015 6r80 no 4,5,6 gear throwing for p07aa any idea?
What did your research tell you P07AA combined with no overdrive indicates?
Are the 6L80 and 6R80 the same trans or is it the 10L and 10R trans?
Both are true - they are not the same but very closely related and in the case of the 6L/6R, both are based on the ZF6HP26 transmission and both Ford and GM produced their respective 6-speed automatics under license from ZF (applies to the 8-speeds as well)...The 10-speed units are the product of a joint GM-Ford engineering collaboration where the intent was to address all the design/functional weaknesses inherent within the ZF platform while keeping a common architecture for supply chain streamline and economies of scale.
@@nickstransmissions cool deal, thank you sir
Awesome video. I learned a lot. I think…..😂
Thanks, man! Yea, those units have a lot going on inside so feel free to watch multiple times and ask questions if you need to.
@@nickstransmissions oh I will definitely be watching more than once. There is a lot going on but I think the rebuild will be a lot easier than pulling it out of the truck. 4x4 doesn’t make it easier by the looks of it. Great work my man.
Sounds good, man...Yes it can be a pain in the ass dealing with that transfer case/front drive shaft but once they're out of the way it's not too bad. I film and publish a special tools video on these in the next week or so this way you know what you really need to complete the rebuild (if you go strictly by the ATSG manual, you'll end up spending millions of dollars in special tools, lol).
Sorry brother, i should watch before i ask questions lol.
All good, Vic - appreciate your views and engagement.
🫡🤝
Thanks for watching, Joe!
Great Cesar's Ghost man learn to edit. This is HARD to watch.
Lol...You willingly, knowingly clicked onto a two-and-a-half-hour video and watched it. Then you bitch about it being 'HARD' to watch? Hilarious!!!
Did someone force you to sit through it for those 2+ hours at gunpoint? If not, I guess you're new to YT and didn't realize the run time is displayed on all videos in the bottom right corner of the thumbnail.
Whether you watched it under duress or not, thanks for the view - helps me regardless how painful it was for you.