The hydraulic lines should be a closed system. The only oil that leaks is what is in the lines and cylinders. I suppose a recirculating line could empty the tank.
The tank won’t empty if the machine is off, a digger turns it’s suction delivery off as soon as you turn the machine off it’s automatic you will only lose small amounts of oil residue that’s left in the hose (if any). u will also find it extremely hard to take the nut off if it’s under pressure meaning if the digger is on, to stop leaks close all the rams as shown in the video to push all the oil back into the tank
Hi i am thinking of changing my own lines 1st time i am nooob when comes to hydraulics so is it bolt off and bolt on the new hose and start up the machine or do i need to bleed hydraulics 1st if you get me ? .
Thanks for sharing. I've replaced a hose on my mini (Takeuchi TB016) a few years ago, which even for a novice was easy enough. This time I've been changing a hose from a traction/ translation/ final drive. (When I removed the plate the whole case was rammed, packed with dry earth, nothing to be seen. Why don't they put rubber gaitors where the hoses go in??!! I'll knock some up from tractor inner tube later.) That end of the hose was easy enough to get off. HOwever, the other end, inside the belly, I couldn't get a spanner square on, just at an angle. Crow's foot was no good. Ordinary flat cut in half eventually worked just about. Now the problem is replacing the smaller hose (return? Not under pressure??) onto the T connector. Can't get the nut over the black bulge (olive?) that stops the hose from sliding out. Seems to be very little info on hydraulics, real life.
DONE! Valve spring compressor, perfect for the job, with all the adjustments on it, it slipped over the hose and grasped the nuts; compressed 'til it grasped the nuts, I could turns the apparatus enough to get a few degrees of turn on the T junction thread; removed it, expecting the nut to call off but it didnt! A few 1/4 turns of the spanner and it clearly was working! Yey!
I have watched many videos about replacing hoses but seems nobody goes into detail about... Do you use teflon tape... Be careful about reverse threads... What about bleeding air out of hydraulic system... Etc... Is there anybody out there that gives those details?
Teflon tape should only be used on NPT. The flat face fittings he has the o’ring does the sealing the treads just hold it in place. I have never ran into reverse threads on any hydraulic fittings.As far as bleeding your system after changing a hose you shouldn’t have to do anything to it change the hose and start running it. Just my opinion hope it helps.
@@anthonypercell6982 Thanks I just searched awhile to find your answer. Looking for if I had to bleed or not after my log splitter hose replacement. Just cycle it a few times and keep the oil topped off. Thanks Anthony!
Most hydraulic systems basically bleed themselves, when you open the hydraulic tank cap you will hear it hiss like opening a bottle of coke, the oil 9 times out of 10 will push all of the air back to the tank through the system. As for the sealing of the fittings they are all different, tape should only be used on NPT or on rare occasions BSP TAPER. BSP, jic are metal sealing faces within the fittings concave to convex and convex to concave which gives its seal. The fittings in this video I call ORFs, there will be a flat metal face in the fitting on the hose which will seat onto a male threaded with an oring seal Also you have light and heavy metrics which have a sealing cone with a very small oring in the hose fitting creating the seal Hope that somewhat helps 😊
Oh and by the way what about the pressure that's on the system the hoses before you even break the line loose?... There is a lot of questions you are dealing with a high pressure system that could hurt somebody more details will be helpful to you guys that are experienced that would help us that are not thank you.
You bring up a lot of good questions. I think I'll do a video on the dangers of hydraulic hoses and what I do to prevent injury. I will include some of the different styles of hoses and fittings. . Thanks for watching.
@@shamrockdirtwork7945 How about simulating a leaking scenario where the hydraulic tank beginning to empty out - I have no real idea how to handle that. Your help in this area would be invaluable - it's going to happen to me sooner or later - would be so good to be prepared for it.
It's always a good practice to bleed hydraulic pressure. Be careful when you bleed because the machine will most likely move. Be safe and thanks for watching!
But isn't the hydraulic tank also sealed? If so where do you get rid of the air come on guys you are experienced tell us how to do it please with your experience should be easy as 123 to explain how to bleed the system.
Hello Shamrock how you doing? Question is after you remove and replace a hydraulic hose is there a need to bleed the system? And if so how would you properly do that? Thanks and have a great day to you
@@shamrockdirtwork7945 that's what I'm thinking also that's what I'm being told from other directions so I think what you're saying is correct also. Much thanks for the quick response Shamrock and a great and blessed day to you...😊😉
How do you prevent hydraulic oil loss after taking off hose? I hear the tank can empty out - how did you stop it from doing that?
The hydraulic lines should be a closed system. The only oil that leaks is what is in the lines and cylinders. I suppose a recirculating line could empty the tank.
The tank won’t empty if the machine is off, a digger turns it’s suction delivery off as soon as you turn the machine off it’s automatic you will only lose small amounts of oil residue that’s left in the hose (if any). u will also find it extremely hard to take the nut off if it’s under pressure meaning if the digger is on, to stop leaks close all the rams as shown in the video to push all the oil back into the tank
Hi i am thinking of changing my own lines 1st time i am nooob when comes to hydraulics so is it bolt off and bolt on the new hose and start up the machine or do i need to bleed hydraulics 1st if you get me ? .
Most machines bleed air back to the hydraulic tank. Be very careful when loosening hydraulic hoses. They might be under pressure.
Thanks for sharing. I've replaced a hose on my mini (Takeuchi TB016) a few years ago, which even for a novice was easy enough. This time I've been changing a hose from a traction/ translation/ final drive. (When I removed the plate the whole case was rammed, packed with dry earth, nothing to be seen. Why don't they put rubber gaitors where the hoses go in??!! I'll knock some up from tractor inner tube later.) That end of the hose was easy enough to get off. HOwever, the other end, inside the belly, I couldn't get a spanner square on, just at an angle. Crow's foot was no good. Ordinary flat cut in half eventually worked just about. Now the problem is replacing the smaller hose (return? Not under pressure??) onto the T connector. Can't get the nut over the black bulge (olive?) that stops the hose from sliding out. Seems to be very little info on hydraulics, real life.
DONE! Valve spring compressor, perfect for the job, with all the adjustments on it, it slipped over the hose and grasped the nuts; compressed 'til it grasped the nuts, I could turns the apparatus enough to get a few degrees of turn on the T junction thread; removed it, expecting the nut to call off but it didnt! A few 1/4 turns of the spanner and it clearly was working! Yey!
I have watched many videos about replacing hoses but seems nobody goes into detail about... Do you use teflon tape... Be careful about reverse threads... What about bleeding air out of hydraulic system... Etc... Is there anybody out there that gives those details?
Teflon tape should only be used on NPT. The flat face fittings he has the o’ring does the sealing the treads just hold it in place. I have never ran into reverse threads on any hydraulic fittings.As far as bleeding your system after changing a hose you shouldn’t have to do anything to it change the hose and start running it. Just my opinion hope it helps.
What about the tools needed
@@anthonypercell6982 Thanks I just searched awhile to find your answer. Looking for if I had to bleed or not after my log splitter hose replacement. Just cycle it a few times and keep the oil topped off. Thanks Anthony!
Most hydraulic systems basically bleed themselves, when you open the hydraulic tank cap you will hear it hiss like opening a bottle of coke, the oil 9 times out of 10 will push all of the air back to the tank through the system.
As for the sealing of the fittings they are all different, tape should only be used on NPT or on rare occasions BSP TAPER.
BSP, jic are metal sealing faces within the fittings concave to convex and convex to concave which gives its seal.
The fittings in this video I call ORFs, there will be a flat metal face in the fitting on the hose which will seat onto a male threaded with an oring seal
Also you have light and heavy metrics which have a sealing cone with a very small oring in the hose fitting creating the seal
Hope that somewhat helps 😊
Oh and by the way what about the pressure that's on the system the hoses before you even break the line loose?... There is a lot of questions you are dealing with a high pressure system that could hurt somebody more details will be helpful to you guys that are experienced that would help us that are not thank you.
You bring up a lot of good questions. I think I'll do a video on the dangers of hydraulic hoses and what I do to prevent injury. I will include some of the different styles of hoses and fittings. . Thanks for watching.
@@shamrockdirtwork7945 Waiting for it :)
I haven't done any hydraulic work on my equipment yet. I've been thinking about a good way to do a hydraulic video. Any suggestions?
@@shamrockdirtwork7945 How about simulating a leaking scenario where the hydraulic tank beginning to empty out - I have no real idea how to handle that. Your help in this area would be invaluable - it's going to happen to me sooner or later - would be so good to be prepared for it.
Do you have to bleed or release the pressure from the hydraulics?
It's always a good practice to bleed hydraulic pressure. Be careful when you bleed because the machine will most likely move. Be safe and thanks for watching!
Is there any pressure release valve on those hydraulics?
Not that I'm aware of on this model.
When adding another attachment or replacing a line how do you get the air out of the system?
I just cycle the hydraulic controls. The air gets sent back to the hydraulic tank.
But isn't the hydraulic tank also sealed? If so where do you get rid of the air come on guys you are experienced tell us how to do it please with your experience should be easy as 123 to explain how to bleed the system.
I think the tank itself is vented to the atmosphere. It has a breather cap. I'll take a good look at it when as soon as I can.
Hello Shamrock how you doing? Question is after you remove and replace a hydraulic hose is there a need to bleed the system? And if so how would you properly do that? Thanks and have a great day to you
I don't have to bleed the hoses. I think the system is designed to automatically bleed air back to the hydraulic tank.
@@shamrockdirtwork7945 that's what I'm thinking also that's what I'm being told from other directions so I think what you're saying is correct also. Much thanks for the quick response Shamrock and a great and blessed day to you...😊😉
The reason you wernt aloud to use adjustables on board is because 1 size fits fuck all
Get straight to the subject.