This was the most helpful video I found. The easy to follow step by step instructions were awesome. I would have never figured the problem out on my own... Thank You!!
If he had no time for bs, he would have just run the hot to the switch box, thereby no monkeying around with using a common wire as a hot switch wire. Keep it clean and simple. Hot wire from box to the switch, keeping all black as power legs and all white as common and then, if anyone later down the road opens the outlet, they won't have to second guess what whit is hot and what white is common.
This was outstanding. I wanted to learn how to connect a new switch to an existing pull chain ceiling fan. After this demo, im heading up to the attic in the AM. Thanks
I am electrically challenged. Thank you for the presentation. I now have the confidence to add a 2nd light in my dark laundry room! One thing that would make it easier for me to understand how to wire would be a list of each wire and tell which other wire to attach. (White wire from power source to White wire in 2nd light. ...).
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 The problem I now have is the connections at the original light is tied into a wire that feeds an outlet that is live, even when the switch is turned off. At the original light junction box there are: 1 Black & 1 White wire from the switch 1 black and 1 white wire from the 2nd light I recently mounted 1 black & 1 white wires going in and continuing out Is it time for me to call for an electrician?
Thanks man. This approach looks different. Would it be simpler if we connect the power source to switch and from switch to bulb 1 and then from there to bulb 2 using pigtails..
Though simpler, often times you have for example a small room light controlled by a not so close switch and the client now wants to move its location or add a dedicated switch for the purpose. Then as you mentioned "jump" from bulb 1 to bulb 2.
An example of this would be that you have a pull chain lamp holder that you want to switch and add another light. Drop one cable into the switch box and another to the second light. Another example would be if the light box is closer to the power source you would use less wire to run it this way.
Manhandling those wires hard enough to rock the test wall back-and-forth lol that’s what it takes for 10-2 or 12-2/3 to get it right the first time, I always pussyfoot… Thank you for showing confidence and confidence that it takes to do this right
Nice video. I’m trying to wire 2 wall sconces to one switch that I just installed. I had the power in running right to the switch and then the lines running from the switch to the first light and then daisy chained to the second. I couldn’t get both lights on at once no matter what I tried. I will try it this way and cross my fingers! P.S. wouldn’t this wiring method provide constant power to the first light? Or is it a loop now that the switch controls? It seems like a fairly simple method yet I’m having trouble getting my head around the concept. *UPDATE* I followed your wiring to the tee, wire for wire and it worked like a charm! Thank you thank you thank you!
Thanks! How do you decide when to combine two wires while keeping one longer and running it through the wire nut (like you did the grounds) vs using a pigtail?
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 thanks, it also later occurred to me that the nut with the hole is really just a tool for bare grounds and isn't compatible with sheathed wire.
Great video! How does the no neutral into the switch help out with all these wifi switches that require a neutral? Im a DIY and this has been an issue with these newer switches.
Power can go to the light box first, this is usually done if you can save wire. Many electricians don't like to do it because the light would have to be taken down if there was a problem. It s easier if it's in a switch box.
Awesome video! I'm trying to tie in 2 lights on to a single pole switch with 1 light already on it. So basically 3 lights on 1 switch in a bathroom. I have wired up ceiling fans, outlets, switches. But I haven't done this before. Can I just tie right into the light in the attic and add my 2 lights on from there?
I wasn't sure if I needed to run it to the switch. So just hook up my hot,neutral, and ground as usual? Then my other 2 lights will operate as normal with the first light?
Just run the hot wire from the panel, or outlet to the switch box. It keeps it simple and clean in that all whites are common, no hot and all black are hot and switch legs. Why overcomplicate it and have all these non experienced people confused to what whit is for power. Keep it clean and simple with power to the switch box, then run the legs to the light boxes.
I used this video and method to wire 2 wall sconces from one switch. Now I plan to wire 5 sconces from a dimmer. Can I use this same method and then daisy chain from light 2 to 3 to 4 to 5?
Any "white" wires that are power conductors must be identified with a black (or red) identifier. I have used tape, sharpie marker and MY favorite heat shrink tubing. Any future work will be easier to identify and troubleshoot if this NEC standard is met.
@@Smoothnf I have a video with power at the switch box. To add multiple lights you would just go from light box to light box black to black, white to white.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 I think I asked it wrong. What I meant is when having 2 light fixtures can I connect them together inside the switch box along with the switch? As opposed to daisy chaining them?
Hey so im doing some DIY, ive replicated this kinda, but instead i have a 20 amp running 4 led flush mounts. Without the switch the lights were really bright like perfect, but i added the switch and hooked up the commons to the hots all the way through and the lights dimmed noticeably any thoughts?
@@JamesKameron-u3u the power has to go through the lights to the switch on the black then the red wire is used as a switch leg going from switch back to each light.
You will need a 3 wire between light boxes. The red would be used as switch leg, the black would be wire nutted to white from switch box used as hot. The black from switch box would be hooked to red switch leg. The white in 3 wire is neutral.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 I just happen to have some extra 3 wire lying around. Thank you so much, I will give it a try, because when I used 2 wire, I wasn't successful.
@@christianmoya1150 from light box with power wire in it you can run a 12-3 to other light box. Use red wire as switch leg. From second light box send power to switch on white and bring back to light box on black as switch leg, hook to red wire as switch leg to other light.
I swear to god electricians can only figure out complex wiring scenarios if they physically talk out what’s happening in front of them. My dads been doing it for 40 years and if you taped his mouth shut I don’t think he would be able to be an electrician lol.
Some smart or dimmer switches require a neutral in the switch box so you'd have to run a 14/3 (or 12/3) up out of the switch box and use the red wire as the second hot leg..
Oh, thank you. good to understand. I am setting up power direct to switch which will connect two hanging lamps over my kichen counter . . . Helpful video instructions, thanks . . . 0:59 d@timpalmer-logstolumber1999
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 ok I'll give that a shot. It's a addition room.. Hopefully the switch is the problem. Thank you. But if my tester says the wires are hot could it still be the switch.ty
Excuse my arrogance but could you not give power to the switch from the panel, pig tail the switch with 14/2 coming from the first light than just pig tail every other light after that?
Thanks for the response. I was just curious because I plan to take power from an outlet for a switch to add ceiling lights to our living room. (no lights currently so would need to steal power or run a new circuit)@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999
If you're going to use a white wire as a switch leg you should put black tape on both ends to indicate a hot wire and not a neutral in this case. Since 2011 I believe, an unconnected neutral wire is required in the switch box for future upgrade to a smart switch/dimmer. You should use 12/3 or 14/3 and use the red wire as the switch leg from the first light to the switch. 12/2 from the source and between the lights is good.
@@surferdude642 Do all dimmer switches need an extra wire or can you use the wire taped with black electrical tape as dimmer / switch wire? I don't understand what the difference is with the upgrade?
@@monsieurbono A regular dimmer switch operates like a regular on/off, 2 hot wires and no neutral wire. A smart dimmer can be controlled from a smartphone or computer, even remotely, I believe. Most of these devices require a neutral wire in the same sense that a receptacle does. You cannot use the existing taped white wire for this because it's being used as a switch leg and is a hot wire. If you want to change to a smart dimmer and there's no neutral wire, there are some now that will work.
No BS instructional video, straight to the point, and showing the process step-by-step from scratch. Thank you!
Thank you sir, my project exactly.
This was the most helpful video I found. The easy to follow step by step instructions were awesome. I would have never figured the problem out on my own... Thank You!!
This man has no time for BS… and i respect that
Djdjjdjdjdjdjdjsjdjddjjsjsdijdjdjdjdjdjdjdjdjdjsjsjdjdjsisudjsjsjsjdjsjsjsjsjdjsjsjdjsjsjdjdjsjsjsjdjsdjjdjsjsjdjdjdidjdjdjdjdjsdjjdjdjdjdjdjdjdjf
If he had no time for bs, he would have just run the hot to the switch box, thereby no monkeying around with using a common wire as a hot switch wire. Keep it clean and simple. Hot wire from box to the switch, keeping all black as power legs and all white as common and then, if anyone later down the road opens the outlet, they won't have to second guess what whit is hot and what white is common.
@MrItalianfighter1 nothing wrong with what he did. I would personally go to the switch box first so there is no second guessing.
This video saved me a lot of time, thank you.
Yes! Your video finally explains the set up I have. Thank you for making a simple and easy to understand vid!
This was outstanding. I wanted to learn how to connect a new switch to an existing pull chain ceiling fan. After this demo, im heading up to the attic in the AM. Thanks
After 2 years still saving our days. Great content 👌
awsome man thanks for this video i was able to fix my problem in my basement
Well done! Straight to the point and super easy to follows. Exactly what I was looking for!!
I am electrically challenged. Thank you for the presentation. I now have the confidence to add a 2nd light in my dark laundry room! One thing that would make it easier for me to understand how to wire would be a list of each wire and tell which other wire to attach. (White wire from power source to White wire in 2nd light. ...).
If you have questions I will help you with them
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 The problem I now have is the connections at the original light is tied into a wire that feeds an outlet that is live, even when the switch is turned off. At the original light junction box there are:
1 Black & 1 White wire from the switch
1 black and 1 white wire from the 2nd light I recently mounted
1 black & 1 white wires going in and continuing out
Is it time for me to call for an electrician?
Thank you, straight to the point, no BS and informational.
YOU ARE AWSOME!!! thank you dang wire was kicking my butt.
Very good knowledgeable info bro you got me out of a jam couldnt be thankful enough.
Very good. Easy to follow. Thanks.
I feel like this guy kicks peoples asses on the daily .
lmao
Thank u for showing step by step
This was exactly what I needed, thanks for making great content!
May God bless everyone thanks to this video well explained I just did same thing thank y'all I appreciate it
Just what i needed.......many thanks!
what an outstanding demonstration thank you so much!!
Thanks man. This approach looks different. Would it be simpler if we connect the power source to switch and from switch to bulb 1 and then from there to bulb 2 using pigtails..
Though simpler, often times you have for example a small room light controlled by a not so close switch and the client now wants to move its location or add a dedicated switch for the purpose. Then as you mentioned "jump" from bulb 1 to bulb 2.
An example of this would be that you have a pull chain lamp holder that you want to switch and add another light. Drop one cable into the switch box and another to the second light. Another example would be if the light box is closer to the power source you would use less wire to run it this way.
Great Job, thanks Tim
Manhandling those wires hard enough to rock the test wall back-and-forth lol that’s what it takes for 10-2 or 12-2/3 to get it right the first time, I always pussyfoot… Thank you for showing confidence and confidence that it takes to do this right
Nice video. I’m trying to wire 2 wall sconces to one switch that I just installed. I had the power in running right to the switch and then the lines running from the switch to the first light and then daisy chained to the second. I couldn’t get both lights on at once no matter what I tried. I will try it this way and cross my fingers!
P.S. wouldn’t this wiring method provide constant power to the first light? Or is it a loop now that the switch controls? It seems like a fairly simple method yet I’m having trouble getting my head around the concept.
*UPDATE* I followed your wiring to the tee, wire for wire and it worked like a charm! Thank you thank you thank you!
Thank you. This is what i'm need
My man you got me out of a jam!! Much appreciated.
Thanks! How do you decide when to combine two wires while keeping one longer and running it through the wire nut (like you did the grounds) vs using a pigtail?
@@composish depends on how many grounds are in the box and how many switches you are wiring
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 thanks, it also later occurred to me that the nut with the hole is really just a tool for bare grounds and isn't compatible with sheathed wire.
Great video! How does the no neutral into the switch help out with all these wifi switches that require a neutral? Im a DIY and this has been an issue with these newer switches.
If you need a neutral in switch box use a 3 wire from light to switch box. Use red as switch leg.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 Thank you!
I am a DIYer. I thought the power went to the switch first. Your video totally confused me. Maybe I need to watch it again. Thanks.
Power can go to the light box first, this is usually done if you can save wire. Many electricians don't like to do it because the light would have to be taken down if there was a problem. It s easier if it's in a switch box.
Awesome video! I'm trying to tie in 2 lights on to a single pole switch with 1 light already on it. So basically 3 lights on 1 switch in a bathroom. I have wired up ceiling fans, outlets, switches. But I haven't done this before. Can I just tie right into the light in the attic and add my 2 lights on from there?
yes, it will be a continuation of the switch leg
I wasn't sure if I needed to run it to the switch. So just hook up my hot,neutral, and ground as usual? Then my other 2 lights will operate as normal with the first light?
@@stackin_steve_8223Yes, Just hook up at the light. you could also do at the switch but then you have to fish wire into switch box.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 awesome thank you! I had the right idea then. I appreciate the help!
@@stackin_steve_8223 glad I could help
Man , this help me alot , thanks for the video .
Thanks for this!!!
Your welcome
Just run the hot wire from the panel, or outlet to the switch box. It keeps it simple and clean in that all whites are common, no hot and all black are hot and switch legs. Why overcomplicate it and have all these non experienced people confused to what whit is for power. Keep it clean and simple with power to the switch box, then run the legs to the light boxes.
Very helpful. Thank You.
Life saver, thank you sir
I used this video and method to wire 2 wall sconces from one switch. Now I plan to wire 5 sconces from a dimmer. Can I use this same method and then daisy chain from light 2 to 3 to 4 to 5?
Yes
Thank you 💪🏾
Any "white" wires that are power conductors must be identified with a black (or red) identifier. I have used tape, sharpie marker and MY favorite heat shrink tubing. Any future work will be easier to identify and troubleshoot if this NEC standard is met.
Yes, I forgot to mention that when I made the video. I usually carry a sharpie.
CORRECT VERY SAD TO SEE THIS CODE VIOLATION...
Can I just use a junction box before the 1st light. Wire everything like you have it in the 1st light. Then use jumpers the lights?
You could, but then you have another box that you have exposed.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 do you have any video with a single pole switch with multiple lights power starting at the switch?
@@Smoothnf I have a video with power at the switch box. To add multiple lights you would just go from light box to light box black to black, white to white.
Thank you
Strip the jacket off the cable before putting in the box. Feed the switch box trhen go to the lights. There is a definite reason for this
How would I add a outlet next to the light switch with this method of wiring?
You would need a neutral wire from the light.
Could you run a wire from each light and connect them all at the light switch?
Yes, you can run a 3 wire. Use black for hot, red for switch leg, and white for neutral. You can go through multiple lights then to switch box.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 I think I asked it wrong. What I meant is when having 2 light fixtures can I connect them together inside the switch box along with the switch? As opposed to daisy chaining them?
@@CoolGreyX1 yes, you can run power and switch leg to the switch box. Watch my other videos on how you can wire single pole switches.
Hey so im doing some DIY, ive replicated this kinda, but instead i have a 20 amp running 4 led flush mounts. Without the switch the lights were really bright like perfect, but i added the switch and hooked up the commons to the hots all the way through and the lights dimmed noticeably any thoughts?
Do you have power and switch leg in the same light box?
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 so power runs thru lights to switch
@@JamesKameron-u3u did you use 3 wire red for switch leg?
No i only have 12/2
@@JamesKameron-u3u the power has to go through the lights to the switch on the black then the red wire is used as a switch leg going from switch back to each light.
What would you do if you would have two switches? like that empty box below the light?
You would have a three way, I made a video on that.
How to place a black white and ground to an old kitchen ceiling without a grounding wire....please respond Sir...thank you....by Arl Pack
Is there an existing light with a black wire and a white wire coming from a switch?
Can I run the switch off the second light box instead of the first light box? Thanks.
You will need a 3 wire between light boxes. The red would be used as switch leg, the black would be wire nutted to white from switch box used as hot. The black from switch box would be hooked to red switch leg. The white in 3 wire is neutral.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 I just happen to have some extra 3 wire lying around. Thank you so much, I will give it a try, because when I used 2 wire, I wasn't successful.
@@avlisk happy to answer any questions
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 I'm thrilled to report that I have 2 working garage lights now. YAY! Thank you.
@@avlisk glad I could help
Why did you not run power to the switch?
@@johnmoricone294 it is a way to save wire
My first light has a small delay when turning on. So the second light is turning on first.
Any ideas? Maybe a bad light fixture
Are they LED?
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 yes they are LED bulbs
@@TheDamiensprinkle That is the issue. Sometimes there is a short delay when turning them on
What if the switch goes to the other light fixture box?
@@christianmoya1150 from light box with power wire in it you can run a 12-3 to other light box. Use red wire as switch leg. From second light box send power to switch on white and bring back to light box on black as switch leg, hook to red wire as switch leg to other light.
i always run my hot from panel to the switch, then to the light(s).
Most do it that way but it's good to have options.
Thanks!
He’s lost as I am
Lol
I swear to god electricians can only figure out complex wiring scenarios if they physically talk out what’s happening in front of them. My dads been doing it for 40 years and if you taped his mouth shut I don’t think he would be able to be an electrician lol.
I feel you bro my dad is the same haha!
Damn I know my way around circuits ..but this was confusing as shit
Just ask if you need help, I'm trying to do better about reading comments
very good
I think it would be better and less confusing to send power to the switch and then to the lights
Many would agree with you. Power to the light box is usually used if you can save wire.
Nice
Some smart or dimmer switches require a neutral in the switch box so you'd have to run a 14/3 (or 12/3) up out of the switch box and use the red wire as the second hot leg..
That is correct. Check out my other videos where I explain that set up.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 I'm going to go back and look at your past videos, the couple I have watched are clear and to the point.
why sent the "power" to the light box first, instead of sending the "power" "line in" to the switch first?
@@ChiapasPioneer it is usually done to save wire
Oh, thank you. good to understand. I am setting up power direct to switch which will connect two hanging lamps over my kichen counter . . . Helpful video instructions, thanks . . . 0:59 d@timpalmer-logstolumber1999
If I have power to a light .but when I connect my light it doesn't turn on can you help me?
Explain how it's wired. Is there power in the switch box or in the light?
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 yes there is power in the switch box thank you for replying.
I checked switch box wires there all connected.
@@davidfuller9373is this new or old? if everything is hooked up correctly you might look at changing the switch.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 ok I'll give that a shot.
It's a addition room..
Hopefully the switch is the problem.
Thank you.
But if my tester says the wires are hot could it still be the switch.ty
@@davidfuller9373 test for current at light. Check all connections, sometimes wires are loose inside wire nuts.
If I want to add 3rd light, I just add a pigtail to the 2nd light, and so on.
Yes, that would be correct. You could add a few. They work just like can lights.
Excuse my arrogance but could you not give power to the switch from the panel, pig tail the switch with 14/2 coming from the first light than just pig tail every other light after that?
Yes you can run power to the switch, but this example I run power to the light box. I have other videos that show other methods.
Thanks for the response. I was just curious because I plan to take power from an outlet for a switch to add ceiling lights to our living room. (no lights currently so would need to steal power or run a new circuit)@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999
I think they requires a neutral in the switch now
@@Dark_side9999 yes, but a to so have to learn old ways
i need to know whow to operate one light on 2 single pole switches
I don't think that is possible. You would have to 3 way it if you want to use more than one switch.
I thought the home. run went to the switch leaving a free neutral in the box then daisy chain the rest of your light string
This is just another way of wiring the lights. Either way it passes code.
I can't see what screw or what wire was connected
A closer view would've been better
Sorry, it is on my list of things to do. I am going to redo some of my videos.
Aap mujhe bataen ki bolati supply Kaise Kasauti chat kaise sakte hain plastic
Poor translation, not sure what you are sking
Poor translation, not sure what you are asking
good but can not view wire clear only listen ,not for bad english people
I will try to do a better job on that in the future
What a mess.
I know this is guy is a teacher and is trying to be helpful however; people like this chase others away from the trades !
Not true
What an absurd thing to say.
He taught me a lot in 13 minutes. Don’t know why you think he’d turn ppl away.
Only to those who are too challenged to learn
lol
Wrong
Can you tell me why?
If you're going to use a white wire as a switch leg you should put black tape on both ends to indicate a hot wire and not a neutral in this case. Since 2011 I believe, an unconnected neutral wire is required in the switch box for future upgrade to a smart switch/dimmer. You should use 12/3 or 14/3 and use the red wire as the switch leg from the first light to the switch. 12/2 from the source and between the lights is good.
@@surferdude642 Do all dimmer switches need an extra wire or can you use the wire taped with black electrical tape as dimmer / switch wire? I don't understand what the difference is with the upgrade?
@@monsieurbono A regular dimmer switch operates like a regular on/off, 2 hot wires and no neutral wire. A smart dimmer can be controlled from a smartphone or computer, even remotely, I believe. Most of these devices require a neutral wire in the same sense that a receptacle does. You cannot use the existing taped white wire for this because it's being used as a switch leg and is a hot wire.
If you want to change to a smart dimmer and there's no neutral wire, there are some now that will work.
@@surferdude642 Agreed Thank you
This guy is a bull in a china shop. crazy that he ended up in the trades. lol
I can finesse things when I need to.