I've had this happen to me a couple of times on my old L322. It's like if it's hit by stray cosmic radiation, corrupting a canbus message. Once it happened in Sardinia, I remember. It was also a BCM related error. I don't remember if I only had the iCarsoft, or if I had the IID-tool then, but I cleared, and it was all hunky-dory after that. I've, so far, knock on wood, not had this happen on my L405. Yes. I love Rondane too. I always take the 219 up from Atna, across Sollia, through Rondane and then onto 29 in Folldal. That pale green moss is always spectacular.
Brake light switch, faulty brake bulb, abs sensor lead loose or faulty all will do that. When did you last change the gearbox oil ? I started having the reduced gears scenario, and ended up needing a replacement automatic gearbox and torque converter. Ignore the Land Rover it’s sealed for life garb, do an oil change every 2 years
think also about earthing, Brake light switch would also be worth changing (they are cheap so carry a spare or 2) , the fact the fault cleared and didn't come back leads to a power issue and if your battery is charging ok then checking earths around the car might be the next best thing to try , Might also be worth doing any firmware updates the IID tool recommends - great videos and love the Norwegian landscape :).
Having driven overland across most of Southern Africa with a D3 you learn very quickly to accept one of 29 ECU having a hissy fit corrupring the CANBUS and causing the driver the fear of a big repair bill when the dashboard lights up you get a sinking feeling. I learned to live with this, nothing an ignition reset wouldnt resolve as it did in your case Simon. Looks like in your case the steering angle sensor was the hissy fit ECU. It didnt happen very often but when it did I ended up with multiple CANBUS communication faults. Its again part of the love hate relationship of owning a complex but superb vehicle. The D3 was the first of its kind which was criticised in its early life, it is now a renowned as probably the best all round car ever produced with 7 seats, van like carrying capacity, Mercedes S class ride quality and the best 4x4 by far. A few non descript bing bongs are a small price to pay.
I couldn’t agree more and thank you for sharing your experience. We don’t get very rough conditions other than harsh winters and salty roads. Will note down ECU-Hiccups and keep it on the back of my head when it happens next time. 👍😊
Ginny!" said Mr. Weasley, flabbergasted. "Haven't I taught you anything? What have I always told you? Never trust anything that can think for itself if you can't see where it keeps its brain? JK Rowling, Harry Potter, Chamber of Secrets.
Diso3 had intermittent dropped down on all fours...2 months at garage...wasted ...found new garage, only works on LR/RR...recalibrated rear drive height sensors and had beast back in 3 days, Why 3 days? Waiting on parts... Recalibration may not hold, can take 3 times before it will stay. We watched the voltage fluctuation for a good 45 min+... while he explained the air suspension system. I left him with my old rear air struts to test and they were not leaking. Expensive lesson to learn hope you can avoid it. Yes, his scan tool was a professional mechanic's version...so we could literally watch beast 'think'. In hindsight, it was worth every bit of the 'oh so much fun' of 80 miles at the tortuous speed of 35mph.
Thanks man, that's a lot of insight shared and I think it could be some sensor issue for sure as we had been off-road and I was driving quite hard on turning and bumpy road. Maybe the combination kicked the rear sensors of it's mental health just for long enough for it to scare me. 😅 Expensive but worth it every time you get back on the road, is what I think. 😉 I done some recal/adjusting on my own so could have effected the ride, and the added weight in the back. And some lazy original suspension struts. 😊 Thanks again, for getting me to think in that direction. Best, Simon
One time similar thing happend to me while I was driving and the diagnostic device was connected. It seems it momentarly affects the canbus communications and leaves a lot lot of irrelevant errors.
In retrospect, I think it was an overheating issue. I had the same symptoms happen a year later, going up Dovre mountain with a 2.8 ton trailer. Mid way the exact same thing happened but this time I check the water temps and it boiled straight away as I opened the lid, screwed it right back and saved it. Think I was running with a bit low level on the coolant. 😅 In short, I think it starts to throw codes when it starts to overheat. 😊
Could well be linked to low power but after your 4 wheel alignment you do need to recalibrate the steering angle sensor. Easy job to do and it just makes sure that all is well 👍great footage and amazing scenery as always.
Thank you Simon! The steering angle sensor got calibrated when the wheel alignment was done. Was done after the flashback clip from that video. 😊 But could be it’s not perfect. 🤔
hello from SC great to see Lillehammer country side in the rover but a ? Why do we put up with this constant repairs and repairs$$$$$$$ why? “ cause we ❤our lr3 ✌️👍😎
Hello back from LRD here in Norway! 😊 Lillehammer is a great area and have some nice backcountry roads if you drive up into the mountains behind Lillehammer. The D3 and LR3 are becoming classics so need to keep it now until it rusts away, and we do love our LR's. 👍 And I'm getting to that age where I appreciate the old stuff and would rather fix and buy new! 😊 Best, Simon.
@@LandRoverDrive Yes classic and yes I went to Lillehammer in 2000 missed plane in Stockholm had to fly a late flight into sondefjord hope I spelled correct so good to have memory return from your vid. Today we replace caliper passenger front and yes no new here lr3 05 and a good ole 91 Chevy suburban ✌️👍😎
👍😊 Brakes are important. Glad the video could bring back some good memories, it’s never to late to go back. 👍 Good luck with the caliper change and good to have a backup car. 🚗
@@LandRoverDrive It's bloody hard to install. I've made it work once, using a pirate Moongoose cable. Now I have the Autel MS906BT, which can do 99% of what SDD can do, and a lot more user friendly. I dunno what drugz those who made the SDD UI was on, but I'd really like to try it out myself. Definitely strong stuff.
Beautiful road, I took my Defender on Cascade Lakes High Way it's only open in the summer when the snow is gone. You are never wasting time taking the long way home.
The scenic route is always a win, and it seems like the backroads in Norway is always the better option. Cascade Lakes High Way, I will need to google that, sound’s scenic. 😊 And I couldn’t agree more, time gain, not wasted. 👍
My 06 land rover discovery 3, brake light came on the dash yesterday, then to day when driving at 70mph it went in to limp mode, i pulled over turned the car off and on again and it drove fine, went back out in it an hour later and it went back in to limp mode pulled over stoped and it drove fine again.... when it was plugged in to check faults, nothing to do with it came up only the breaks. What could it be ?
Brake pad wear sensor I would bet. Or brake light switch is also a common problem. I would start there and if problem persists with the limp mode it could be other problems like the some faults with the EPB-module or hight sensors. But if you brake light came on I would start at looking at the brakes and the EPB (Emergency parking brake). There is one pad sensor on one side in the front and on pad sensor on one side at the rear. Hope that helps. 👍😊
@@Sausages. Thank you so much! It is always great to hear when the videos and my experiences can be of help. And it's the main reason why I share my experiences here on UA-cam. Wish you the best of luck with your fault hunting. 😊
I had the same fault, was intermittent but realized it was when it was raining or high humidity. Eventually found the abs sensor wire was not seated in its retaining clip and had partially worn through. This repair fixed the problem, no issues since.
Had a Disco 4 with the same issue Simon just went into limp mode cost me £380 to fix only had a quick chat with the mechanic but it was something to do with air filter sensors one was not working but yours is a Disco 3 not sure if it’s the same on the engines in these two cars.
Thank you! I haven't done anything with the air system in my time of ownership so could be the start of a faulty sensor somewheres. 😊 Maybe a hose starting to leak to, I know the intercooler hose is prone to leaking. The money can go quickly at the mechanic. 😅 Simon
@@LandRoverDrive An engine related error should not drop the air out of your bags. That is all BCM. I had a horrible turbo leak on the TDV8 causing a ding on partial load. It was one of the elbows between the intake plenum behind the butterfly valve (it's not a throttle body) and the intake on top of one of the the cylinder heads.
i have not removed one yet but the symptoms sound like it could be the issue. try first to calibrate it. and first physically touch it to see if it may be lose or damaged. to replace it you will have to take the steering column off the splines not sure how much work that is on the disco3. i hope it is something else that is easy to fix :)
A great trip Simon and fantastic scenery as always. Land Rover, the vehicle just keeps on giving.....codes that is lol 😆 Good to hear that the 'issue' amounted to nothing and you got home ok. It was quite a drive indeed. I had a code and engine mang light on my car recently. Turned out to be an O2 sensor replacement was needed. Oh the joys of motoring 🙂
We wouldn’t enjoy the good moments as much if we didn’t have a little bings and bongs now and again. It could be a sensor on its way out but we will just have to wait and see. Then views are great and I love driving that road. 🏔️👌
Sure is some beautiful scenery you're driving through there Simon...though i thought it was Troll's not sheep you had to be careful not to hit ! 😉 Fingers crossed for the SAS fault 🤞
Thank you and it seems to be okay this far! 😊 The scenery is amazing and was in troll-country at the end there, near Oppdal, and I hope I will never meet a troll, not to friendly I have heard. 😅
Trolls are more commonly encountered in the comments sections than in the Norwegian nature. I've lived close to Trollveggen and Trollstigen in Romsdalen for two decades, and I can count my sightings of real trolls on one hand.
@@AdeptHavelock Just like you should never count your pints, you should never count your trolls. It's means bad luck, and who wants that? Maybe your LR ends up in limp-mode? All I can say: Very few.
What is a CANBus reset? I've been in automotive electrical engineering for close to two decades and I've never heard about something even close to it. You can't reset an ethernet network either. You can reset one or more of the modules talking or listening to the canbus, but not the bus iself. It's nothing more than a pair of twisted wires with terminators and dropoffs at each node on the bus. Yes, you should have proper voltage before resetting modules, or they could end up with a corrupt internal configuration. Furthermore, the TDV6 is fitted with the Ford Smartcharge system that varies the output voltage from the alternator as a function of bus load and calculated battery charge. It can drop down to 12.5V for longer periods. The voltage is controlled from the PCM with a PWM signal directly to the alternator. The SDV8 has a similar system, but is using a LIN-bus for comms with the regulator instead of PWM.
Okay, never done that before. Should the charging Voltage be that high? Also thought the D3 had self regulating voltage on when charging so it would vary a bit.
@@LandRoverDrive 14.5V is quite normal during bulk charge of the battery. There is a temperature sensor on the positive terminal that is used to calculate the optimal charging voltage. It's just that it's not very well thought out. Because in Scandinavian conditions, it can go as high as 15.3V, when it is -20C outside. That kills both AGM and standard lead acid cells. The charging algorithm on my L405 seems to implement a cutoff at 14.8V, which is also borderline. But I think it works OK. When I replaced the batteries on mine (both main and start/stop) they were both 9 years old, so the BMS (battery management system) seems to do a pretty decent job.
Scan Tool Reset modules upset Can Bus when the Voltage is low it brings up fake codes, battery Voltage must be 12.5 at the lowest ignition on start the moter and changing Voltage should be at least 14.5v if its lower you need a new Altanator. Have you gone through Ground connections and positive connections, Discoverys are so sensitive to Voltage that a incorrect wattage Bulb ie brake light causes problems, I'm a Mechanic and my Discovery has not brought up any codes for 4 years now unless I've not plugged into a maintenance Charge when I have not driven it for 8 days the Voltage at that time was 11.8 v not good
LIMP MODE - THE BING BONG of HORROR. 😅 What do you think could be the reason? 🤔Watch it and let me know. Best, Simon
I've got the same fault messages, HDC& transmission fault, Suspension lowered, "Stop safely". For me it is probably the brake light switch.
I've had this happen to me a couple of times on my old L322. It's like if it's hit by stray cosmic radiation, corrupting a canbus message. Once it happened in Sardinia, I remember. It was also a BCM related error. I don't remember if I only had the iCarsoft, or if I had the IID-tool then, but I cleared, and it was all hunky-dory after that.
I've, so far, knock on wood, not had this happen on my L405.
Yes. I love Rondane too. I always take the 219 up from Atna, across Sollia, through Rondane and then onto 29 in Folldal. That pale green moss is always spectacular.
Brake light switch, faulty brake bulb, abs sensor lead loose or faulty all will do that. When did you last change the gearbox oil ? I started having the reduced gears scenario, and ended up needing a replacement automatic gearbox and torque converter. Ignore the Land Rover it’s sealed for life garb, do an oil change every 2 years
@@robgreenhill1426 Yes. Even ZF, that makes the gearboxes, recommends replenishment intervals of 60.000 km.
think also about earthing, Brake light switch would also be worth changing (they are cheap so carry a spare or 2) , the fact the fault cleared and didn't come back leads to a power issue and if your battery is charging ok then checking earths around the car might be the next best thing to try , Might also be worth doing any firmware updates the IID tool recommends - great videos and love the Norwegian landscape :).
Having driven overland across most of Southern Africa with a D3 you learn very quickly to accept one of 29 ECU having a hissy fit corrupring the CANBUS and causing the driver the fear of a big repair bill when the dashboard lights up you get a sinking feeling. I learned to live with this, nothing an ignition reset wouldnt resolve as it did in your case Simon. Looks like in your case the steering angle sensor was the hissy fit ECU. It didnt happen very often but when it did I ended up with multiple CANBUS communication faults. Its again part of the love hate relationship of owning a complex but superb vehicle. The D3 was the first of its kind which was criticised in its early life, it is now a renowned as probably the best all round car ever produced with 7 seats, van like carrying capacity, Mercedes S class ride quality and the best 4x4 by far. A few non descript bing bongs are a small price to pay.
I couldn’t agree more and thank you for sharing your experience. We don’t get very rough conditions other than harsh winters and salty roads.
Will note down ECU-Hiccups and keep it on the back of my head when it happens next time. 👍😊
Ginny!" said Mr. Weasley, flabbergasted. "Haven't I taught you anything? What have I always told you? Never trust anything that can think for itself if you can't see where it keeps its brain?
JK Rowling, Harry Potter, Chamber of Secrets.
Lovely books and films. Great storytelling. 👌😊 Yeah, not buying anything newer than this, that is for sure. 😉 Just need to find out what.
Diso3 had intermittent dropped down on all fours...2 months at garage...wasted ...found new garage, only works on LR/RR...recalibrated rear drive height sensors and had beast back in 3 days,
Why 3 days? Waiting on parts...
Recalibration may not hold, can take 3 times before it will stay.
We watched the voltage fluctuation for a good 45 min+... while he explained the air suspension system. I left him with my old rear air struts to test and they were not leaking. Expensive lesson to learn hope you can avoid it.
Yes, his scan tool was a professional mechanic's version...so we could literally watch beast 'think'.
In hindsight, it was worth every bit of the 'oh so much fun' of 80 miles at the tortuous speed of 35mph.
Thanks man, that's a lot of insight shared and I think it could be some sensor issue for sure as we had been off-road and I was driving quite hard on turning and bumpy road. Maybe the combination kicked the rear sensors of it's mental health just for long enough for it to scare me. 😅 Expensive but worth it every time you get back on the road, is what I think. 😉 I done some recal/adjusting on my own so could have effected the ride, and the added weight in the back. And some lazy original suspension struts. 😊 Thanks again, for getting me to think in that direction. Best, Simon
I guess Land Rover ECU is like older Window O/S. If something wrong, just restart it!
Hahaha, would seem like it. Why I try to stay away from windows products. 😉
One time similar thing happend to me while I was driving and the diagnostic device was connected. It seems it momentarly affects the canbus communications and leaves a lot lot of irrelevant errors.
In retrospect, I think it was an overheating issue. I had the same symptoms happen a year later, going up Dovre mountain with a 2.8 ton trailer. Mid way the exact same thing happened but this time I check the water temps and it boiled straight away as I opened the lid, screwed it right back and saved it. Think I was running with a bit low level on the coolant. 😅
In short, I think it starts to throw codes when it starts to overheat. 😊
Could well be linked to low power but after your 4 wheel alignment you do need to recalibrate the steering angle sensor. Easy job to do and it just makes sure that all is well 👍great footage and amazing scenery as always.
Thank you Simon! The steering angle sensor got calibrated when the wheel alignment was done. Was done after the flashback clip from that video. 😊 But could be it’s not perfect. 🤔
hello from SC great to see Lillehammer country side in the rover but a ? Why do we put up with this constant repairs and repairs$$$$$$$ why? “ cause we ❤our lr3 ✌️👍😎
Hello back from LRD here in Norway! 😊 Lillehammer is a great area and have some nice backcountry roads if you drive up into the mountains behind Lillehammer. The D3 and LR3 are becoming classics so need to keep it now until it rusts away, and we do love our LR's. 👍 And I'm getting to that age where I appreciate the old stuff and would rather fix and buy new! 😊 Best, Simon.
@@LandRoverDrive
Yes classic and yes I went to Lillehammer in 2000 missed plane in Stockholm had to fly a late flight into sondefjord hope I spelled correct so good to have memory return from your vid. Today we replace caliper passenger front and yes no new here lr3 05 and a good ole 91 Chevy suburban ✌️👍😎
👍😊 Brakes are important. Glad the video could bring back some good memories, it’s never to late to go back. 👍 Good luck with the caliper change and good to have a backup car. 🚗
@@LandRoverDrive
glad I subbed to you ty rover onwarddddddd
@@jbluesb3southside Thank you, appreciate that. Much more to come from Norway and the Rovers. 😉
Hi. Install the SDD program on your laptop and run diagnostics through the Mongoose, a very useful program from JLR!
Okay, can you get the program online or? Any PC or OS requirements?
@@LandRoverDrive It's bloody hard to install. I've made it work once, using a pirate Moongoose cable. Now I have the Autel MS906BT, which can do 99% of what SDD can do, and a lot more user friendly. I dunno what drugz those who made the SDD UI was on, but I'd really like to try it out myself. Definitely strong stuff.
@@rhkavli haha, probably sniffing burned oil in their Land Rover. 😂
Beautiful road, I took my Defender on Cascade Lakes High Way it's only open in the summer when the snow is gone. You are never wasting time taking the long way home.
The scenic route is always a win, and it seems like the backroads in Norway is always the better option. Cascade Lakes High Way, I will need to google that, sound’s scenic. 😊 And I couldn’t agree more, time gain, not wasted. 👍
My 06 land rover discovery 3, brake light came on the dash yesterday, then to day when driving at 70mph it went in to limp mode, i pulled over turned the car off and on again and it drove fine, went back out in it an hour later and it went back in to limp mode pulled over stoped and it drove fine again.... when it was plugged in to check faults, nothing to do with it came up only the breaks. What could it be ?
Brake pad wear sensor I would bet. Or brake light switch is also a common problem. I would start there and if problem persists with the limp mode it could be other problems like the some faults with the EPB-module or hight sensors. But if you brake light came on I would start at looking at the brakes and the EPB (Emergency parking brake). There is one pad sensor on one side in the front and on pad sensor on one side at the rear. Hope that helps. 👍😊
@LandRoverDrive thank you so much. I'm very grateful. Will be subscribing to your channel. Channels like this are what we need on here 😊
@@Sausages. Thank you so much! It is always great to hear when the videos and my experiences can be of help. And it's the main reason why I share my experiences here on UA-cam. Wish you the best of luck with your fault hunting. 😊
I had the same fault, was intermittent but realized it was when it was raining or high humidity. Eventually found the abs sensor wire was not seated in its retaining clip and had partially worn through. This repair fixed the problem, no issues since.
Okay, that's a great tip, will do a check of them all! 👍😊 And glad you got it sorted! 😉
Had a Disco 4 with the same issue Simon just went into limp mode cost me £380 to fix only had a quick chat with the mechanic but it was something to do with air filter sensors one was not working but yours is a Disco 3 not sure if it’s the same on the engines in these two cars.
Thank you! I haven't done anything with the air system in my time of ownership so could be the start of a faulty sensor somewheres. 😊 Maybe a hose starting to leak to, I know the intercooler hose is prone to leaking. The money can go quickly at the mechanic. 😅 Simon
@@LandRoverDrive An engine related error should not drop the air out of your bags. That is all BCM. I had a horrible turbo leak on the TDV8 causing a ding on partial load. It was one of the elbows between the intake plenum behind the butterfly valve (it's not a throttle body) and the intake on top of one of the the cylinder heads.
aye steering angle sensor i would check first ... a bugger and it always happens on a trip never in day to day use
Okay, is it hard to get to? I have never touch it before, so to speak. 😊
i have not removed one yet but the symptoms sound like it could be the issue. try first to calibrate it. and first physically touch it to see if it may be lose or damaged. to replace it you will have to take the steering column off the splines not sure how much work that is on the disco3. i hope it is something else that is easy to fix :)
@@wesleyconn620 Thank you! And I hope so too. 😅
A great trip Simon and fantastic scenery as always. Land Rover, the vehicle just keeps on giving.....codes that is lol 😆 Good to hear that the 'issue' amounted to nothing and you got home ok. It was quite a drive indeed. I had a code and engine mang light on my car recently. Turned out to be an O2 sensor replacement was needed. Oh the joys of motoring 🙂
We wouldn’t enjoy the good moments as much if we didn’t have a little bings and bongs now and again. It could be a sensor on its way out but we will just have to wait and see. Then views are great and I love driving that road. 🏔️👌
Glitch on the CAN Bus wiring I expect.
Driving to fast and to furious. 😅 Maybe a glitch in the Matrix. 😊
Sure is some beautiful scenery you're driving through there Simon...though i thought it was Troll's not sheep you had to be careful not to hit ! 😉
Fingers crossed for the SAS fault 🤞
Thank you and it seems to be okay this far! 😊 The scenery is amazing and was in troll-country at the end there, near Oppdal, and I hope I will never meet a troll, not to friendly I have heard. 😅
Trolls are more commonly encountered in the comments sections than in the Norwegian nature. I've lived close to Trollveggen and Trollstigen in Romsdalen for two decades, and I can count my sightings of real trolls on one hand.
@rhkavli 5 then ? 😉
@@AdeptHavelock Just like you should never count your pints, you should never count your trolls. It's means bad luck, and who wants that? Maybe your LR ends up in limp-mode? All I can say: Very few.
Only troll I have seen so far is the one in my bathroom mirror on a Monday morning before coffee. 😂
Welcome to land rover electronic gremlins.
Thank you! 😅 Been lucky so far so I guess it’s bound to happen at some point in every Land Rover owners life.
Voltage should be 14.5 Volts. Do a CAN BUS RESET ONLY WHEN YOUR BATTERY IS AT 13.8 VOLTS WITH A BATTERY CHARGER then reconnect and reset can bus
What is a CANBus reset? I've been in automotive electrical engineering for close to two decades and I've never heard about something even close to it. You can't reset an ethernet network either. You can reset one or more of the modules talking or listening to the canbus, but not the bus iself. It's nothing more than a pair of twisted wires with terminators and dropoffs at each node on the bus. Yes, you should have proper voltage before resetting modules, or they could end up with a corrupt internal configuration.
Furthermore, the TDV6 is fitted with the Ford Smartcharge system that varies the output voltage from the alternator as a function of bus load and calculated battery charge. It can drop down to 12.5V for longer periods. The voltage is controlled from the PCM with a PWM signal directly to the alternator. The SDV8 has a similar system, but is using a LIN-bus for comms with the regulator instead of PWM.
Okay, never done that before. Should the charging Voltage be that high? Also thought the D3 had self regulating voltage on when charging so it would vary a bit.
@rhkavli read your reply after my first reply. Thanks for clarifying the technical aspect of it. 👍😊
@@LandRoverDrive 14.5V is quite normal during bulk charge of the battery. There is a temperature sensor on the positive terminal that is used to calculate the optimal charging voltage. It's just that it's not very well thought out. Because in Scandinavian conditions, it can go as high as 15.3V, when it is -20C outside. That kills both AGM and standard lead acid cells. The charging algorithm on my L405 seems to implement a cutoff at 14.8V, which is also borderline. But I think it works OK. When I replaced the batteries on mine (both main and start/stop) they were both 9 years old, so the BMS (battery management system) seems to do a pretty decent job.
Scan Tool Reset modules upset Can Bus when the Voltage is low it brings up fake codes, battery Voltage must be 12.5 at the lowest ignition on start the moter and changing Voltage should be at least 14.5v if its lower you need a new Altanator. Have you gone through Ground connections and positive connections, Discoverys are so sensitive to Voltage that a incorrect wattage Bulb ie brake light causes problems, I'm a Mechanic and my Discovery has not brought up any codes for 4 years now unless I've not plugged into a maintenance Charge when I have not driven it for 8 days the Voltage at that time was 11.8 v not good