Nick, you said from day one, this car is a driver...and your floor repair is as good as any! That panel adhesive is awesome stuff, and I challenge anyone to remove that panel...I say good luck on getting it back out in one piece!
Nick, I think you did a very good job. Because it's quick, easy and saves time and money, many of today's body shops are using that 3M cement to install all sorts of sheet metal pieces. Regards, John
Hello Nick. That repair looks solid. Welding is definitely a practiced art. So many factors go into a good weld. Once its sealed up, it'll be fine. George B
Hi Nick, Welding is defintely a craft that is perfected with much practice. Your repairs look like they are very solid. Mustang floorboards of that era were not factory undercoated the way the Thunderbird's were. They were sprayed with primer and then on top of that there would be some body color overspray that drifted under the car when they were spraying the sides of the body with acrylic enamel color coats. On top of that, a little semi - gloss black paint overspray when they were spraying the rocker panel pinch weld flanges to conceal them. No factory applied undercoating on the floor pans of a Mustang. Ford should've done that!
Hey Scott, Im learning more every day. Yeah, no undercoating was the Mustang way I guess. Well, Im going to spray some on the floor pans anyway. Undershutz is not that thick but it will be a nice coating.
I don't weld at all, so after I cut the rusty floors of my '65 T-Bird out, I had some guy weld my new front floor pan replacement panels in. BIG MISTAKE!! A mistake, not because welding is a bad idea, but because this guy was the world's WORST welder. What I should've done was use the 3M adhesive. I was planning on doing that because I'd seen your video on that back then, but then I had second thoughts and said, "Nah...I'll have them welded in." Turned out SO crappy. My car's only a driver, so I guess I'll live with it given it's invisible once the carpet was put in, but I was disappointed to say the least. Your job looks great. It's what I should've done.
Well you can hide crummy welds with panel bond adhesive or seam sealer and nobody will be the wiser. Sorry that happened. It was an easy decision for me to make because I know my limitations and I didnt want to ruin the new floor pans and then have to buy them again. Thanks.
You have 6-7 holes that you drilled into the bottom of the frame along the outboard side of the patch; where you laid two parallel beads of the panel sealant. The frame section looks to be at least 1/4" thick steel and the holes for rivets are pretty small. Also, that is all overhead work. Any tips to drilling those holes without destroying your shoulders or the drill bits?
Funny you should ask. This crazy guy I had helping me suggested using an under hoist jack stand and put it under the drill and use the stand to push up on the drill to drill the holes. Worked out great. The drill went through the steel like butter. Saved us from struggling to hold pressure on the drill while drilling. The stand did all the work. Thanks.
Nick, you said from day one, this car is a driver...and your floor repair is as good as any!
That panel adhesive is awesome stuff, and I challenge anyone to remove that panel...I say good luck on getting it back out in one piece!
Thanks Alvin. I appreciate that. Yeah, once I get the interior back in, it will be as good as new.
Nick,
I think you did a very good job. Because it's quick, easy and saves time and money, many of today's body shops are using that 3M cement to install all sorts of sheet metal pieces.
Regards,
John
Thanks John
Hello Nick. That repair looks solid. Welding is definitely a practiced art. So many factors go into a good weld. Once its sealed up, it'll be fine.
George B
Thanks George. Im happy with the results.
Hi Nick, Welding is defintely a craft that is perfected with much practice. Your repairs look like they are very solid. Mustang floorboards of that era were not factory undercoated the way the Thunderbird's were. They were sprayed with primer and then on top of that there would be some body color overspray that drifted under the car when they were spraying the sides of the body with acrylic enamel color coats. On top of that, a little semi - gloss black paint overspray when they were spraying the rocker panel pinch weld flanges to conceal them. No factory applied undercoating on the floor pans of a Mustang. Ford should've done that!
Hey Scott, Im learning more every day. Yeah, no undercoating was the Mustang way I guess. Well, Im going to spray some on the floor pans anyway. Undershutz is not that thick but it will be a nice coating.
I don't weld at all, so after I cut the rusty floors of my '65 T-Bird out, I had some guy weld my new front floor pan replacement panels in. BIG MISTAKE!! A mistake, not because welding is a bad idea, but because this guy was the world's WORST welder. What I should've done was use the 3M adhesive. I was planning on doing that because I'd seen your video on that back then, but then I had second thoughts and said, "Nah...I'll have them welded in." Turned out SO crappy. My car's only a driver, so I guess I'll live with it given it's invisible once the carpet was put in, but I was disappointed to say the least.
Your job looks great. It's what I should've done.
Well you can hide crummy welds with panel bond adhesive or seam sealer and nobody will be the wiser. Sorry that happened. It was an easy decision for me to make because I know my limitations and I didnt want to ruin the new floor pans and then have to buy them again. Thanks.
You have 6-7 holes that you drilled into the bottom of the frame along the outboard side of the patch; where you laid two parallel beads of the panel sealant. The frame section looks to be at least 1/4" thick steel and the holes for rivets are pretty small. Also, that is all overhead work. Any tips to drilling those holes without destroying your shoulders or the drill bits?
Funny you should ask. This crazy guy I had helping me suggested using an under hoist jack stand and put it under the drill and use the stand to push up on the drill to drill the holes. Worked out great. The drill went through the steel like butter. Saved us from struggling to hold pressure on the drill while drilling. The stand did all the work. Thanks.