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At abut 6:34 I show the routing of the heater hoses for 66 thunderbird only. 1964-65 are different. I dont have anything showing the 64-65 Thunderbird heater hose placement and its difficult to explain it without pointing it out.

Hey Jet, thank you very much. Is the car finished? Whats it like?

Hey, there are a few ways. Once on the car with fluid in it, you can have someone push the brake pedal and hold it down, then you open one of the brake lines slightly so air and fluid can come out. The pedal will go to the floor and while the person holding the brake pedal down continues to hold the pedal down, you tighten the brake line and only then can the person holding the brake pedal let go. You repeat this a few times per brake line at the master cylinder. This purges the air out of the master cylinder. You can also, with the master on the car with fluid in it, you can tickle the pedal up and down. This means push it down GENTLY until you see bubbles come up in the master cylinder. Push the pedal down only as far as you need to get bubbles. Once the bubbles stop, release the pedal and continue this until the bubbles stop completely. This usually takes 20 to 40 pushes of the pedal roughly. Good luck.

Hey, the neutral safety switch on a C6 for starting the car and reverse is on the transmission. The one on the steering column is exactly the same as on 64-65's and, on C6 cars, it only controls the emergency brake. Your emergency brake pedal assembly probably has a bad vacuum motor and return spring. Thats usually what goes bad with them. You can still apply the brake if you manually pull the manual release lever back when applying it and pushing the lever down when releasing it. If you look under the dash, you will see the manual release lever. Pull it towards the drivers seat so the pedal can lock. Push it towards the firewall to release the brake once they have been applied. Good luck.

Hey youngvintagecarlover, it sound like your shift lever has the wear grove and it probably needs to be welded or buy a new one. Make sure the roll pin hole is okay and not hogged out. The detent is probably okay. A bad lower steering column bushing can also cause the shift lever to feel sloppy. Assuming the trans dip stick is correct, if there is no fluid registering on the dip stick, then you are low on fluid. You can be as much as around 4 quarts low and the trans will still work. Remember to check the trans fluid only when it is running. Remember that if you run the car and you are not in the car holding the brake, slide the steering column to the right and put on the emergency brake. The fact that you have to lift the shift lever is an indication of something wrong such as a worn out shift lever, bad lower steering column, and or the shift linkage itself being bad. However, it is also preference to adjust it so you have to lift it slightly to get it to slide it to the right. My preference is not to have that. I like to put the car into park and then just slide the steering wheel over without having to lift it. I hope that has helped. Good luck, Nick

Hey Gerald, yes the door window must be removed first before you can remove the vent window. Once the door window is out, you can then remove the mechanism that turns the vent window, the part the vent window handle is attached to. Then there are 2 bolts and 2 nuts, and one 5/16 hex screw holding the assembly to the door. These are easy to identify except for the 5/16 hex screw. Its at the top of the door helping to hold the vent window to the outer door skin. Its kind of inside a hole. They are hard to take out and usually they break off because they rust. Once you get those undone, the vent window comes out. Its not hard. Good luck.

Hello, yes Id love to help you. My email is tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net Send me an email with contact info and we can start there. Thanks

@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426email was sent yesterday. Thanks

Hey Chuck, long time no talk. I hope your rocket hobby is going well. You dont usually have to replace the drive shaft because they dont take too much damage. You should inspect it to make sure it doesnt have too much wear but I never replace them. They are pretty durable. Thanks, Nick

Fatsco Transmission Parts. 800-524-0485

Thanks Mike.

Hey Corey, my email is tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net Contact me any time and I will do what I can to help you. Thank you very much for the very kind words. I appreciate that very much and Im glad that the videos have helped you. At least Im doing something right. lol

@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thank you for the info! Please check your inbox when you get time. All the best to you good sir!

@@coreybrown8404 Hey Corey, I never got your email. Check to make sure you sent it to the correct email. thanks.

Hey Michael, I have the lever for the NS switch, no worries mate. The firewall boot is available from Birds Nest or any other Thunderbird dealer. However, you do not cut them in half to install, that defeats the whole purpose of the boot. You must remove the steering column completely, disassemble it completely to install it. Sorry, not one of Fords better ideas. My email is tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net. Send me your address and Ill mail you the lever. Thanks.

Hey Michael, the rod attaches to another shorter L shaped rod with two threaded holes. The two bolts that go into those two threaded holes pass through the long slot on the rod. The two rods bolt to the slide mechanism on the drivers side of it. There is an adjustable bolt with the rubber head, the rod bolts to that with a nut. The other side of the rod, the drivers side. bolts to where the lower dash bolts to the side wall. There is a threaded stud with a nut in the middle, . that stud holds the dash to the L bracket on the side wall and the rod bolts to the other side of that stud. I hope that makes sense. Thanks.

Hey Lance, a vacuum check valve is always used on vacuum systems. They are a one way valve to prevent air from being forced into the vacuum system when the engine back fires or something like that. It protects the vacuum system since it must be under vacuum, not pressure. If the car were to back fire, then it could blow out all the vacuum motors. So the check valve allows the engine to suck out all the air, create vacuum, but it does not let air back into the vacuum system. So its important to install the check valve properly too obviously. The extra port on the brass fitting is for the vacuum door lock system. This car does not have that so that fitting is capped off. I hope that has helped. Thanks.

Hey Michael, test EVERYTHING before you reinstall the dash. I take all the wires off the back of the dash, plug them into the harnesses on the car, make all the necessary grounds and I check everything, gauges, bulbs, wipers, ebrake, etc. I also run the vacuum system and make sure the heater and AC work perfectly before going forward. Good luck.

Hey Michael, thank you very much. I think your talking about the thermostatic control valve. Yes, you can bypass it and just take the brown vacuum hose to the heater valve. good luck

You dont find them this original, shes really a beauty in person.

No, the auction will be in a few weeks, probably the end of sept or first week of Oct hopefully. Ill keep everyone informed.

Good question. I reproduced the spring not knowing that the reproduction vacuum motor works opposite to the original. Thats hard to explain but it now needs two springs to return it because of that. Ill try by saying that the neutral position of the motor is relaxed with the lever out so it returns easily. The reproductions neutral position has the lever in, so you have to pull it out and attach it to the release lever and the two springs need to help to pull it back, otherwise it fights to go back in. Stupid but I guess its better than nothing.

As soon as I have the auction info, Ill repost the video with that information. Thanks.

It sure is. Thanks Alvin.

Hey, its 7000 ft above sea level and im dying out here!!

It's a really nice truck. Does your mother know you're playing on the computer and you're being a dick?

Can you forward the email address...thanks

@@josephclarke4244 my email address is in the description tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net

The steering column is still mounted in the car.

Hey Mike, no, it is not pressed on but they do stick and are sometimes hard to get off.

Thanks Alvin.

Sometimes there are a few wires under that dash that do not connect to anything. Not many, just a few. That may be one of them. Without being under the dash at the moment, I dont know what that wire is for. Ill look into it.

Hey, the windows in my 66 stick sometimes too so I just dont roll them up all the way. Not using them helps to cause them to stick too.

Hey Don, yes thats right. Why did they change a good thing?

Hey George, the 64-66 gear kit does not come with the worm gear. The worm gears are part of the armature and cannot be removed and they do not wear out. They can rust but they dont wear out like the earlier ones. I can imagine that Ford must have used these gears in a great many cars. Thanks.

Hey Frank, for 1964-66, Napa had those window motor gears. Birds Nest also has those too. I would think that any other Thunderbird supplier would have them too.

Hey Carl, Id love to see a video of your car. my email is tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net Thank you very much.

Hey Mike, normally this is both a lower steering column bushing issue and shift lever issue. Sometimes even the shift linkage will cause this also. Lower steering column bushing first, shift lever second, shift linkage third. Assuming of course that you have a 64-66 Thunderbird.

Hey Mike, I dont have a video about removing the shift lever, I only have one showing how to repair it. Sorry. I should have done one and Ill try to do one in the future. Thanks.

Thanks George.

Hey George, yeah, theres a lot of stuff like that. I think your right, it makes more sense that they were probably just making things up to keep their jobs. Who knows. Thanks.

Hey Brad, two things happen when the boot (deck lid or trunk lid here in America) opens, first it unlocks by unscrewing, then it opens (lifts up) fully hydraulicly. If it is not unscrewing, then either there is no power getting to the screw motor, or the screw motor is bad. If it is not opening hydraulicly, then either there is no power to the hydraulic pump or the pump is bad. In either case, if there is no power to the motors, then maybe its the relay that controls those movements? The shop manual will show you which relays those are. The book does show you how to manually open the boot, deck lid, and its not hard. Good luck.

Hey Jason, my guess is that while your idling the carb is heating up and the fuel is boiling, which then causes the engine to run rough. Your cooling system is not as efficient when your idling. Todays gas is crap, has a much lower boiling point than gas back in the day and the ethanol makes it even worse. Ethanol also lowers the boiling point. My recommendation is to fill up on the blue ethanol free gas and see how it runs with that in the tank. I mix Avgas (100 octane lo lead airplane fuel) with my fuel to boost the octane and lead content. If you have access to Avgas, Id use that too. The lifter ticking is an indication that the oil is getting hotter and thinner, indicating that the engine is heating up. You may have cooling system issues?? You should be using 20-50 lucas hot rod oil with zink. Any oil thinner than 20-50 is a mistake. Yes, a high volume oil pump can only help your engine but there are no guarantees that it will remove the tick. You can try to change the lifters and clean the rocker shafts, cant hurt if you do it correctly. Id look into your cooling system and the fuel you use. Improving the fuel you use is number 1. Good luck.

Hey Phillip, yes I have several. There are two types for 64. my email is tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net. Send me a photo of what you have and Ill match it up. Thanks.

Hey Jason, Ive never installed one of those, Ive always used the bushing. Rare Parts is an excellent place to buy front suspension parts from and I think its odd that they could not help you with the installation. I dont know what to tell you because I am unfamiliar with the bearing kit and Ive never seen one. As a matter of fact, I didnt even know that a bearing kit was available. Did you look on UA-cam for a video about it? Thats what I would do. Sorry I couldnt help you. Thanks.

@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 ok thank you, i didnt know there was one either i was getting ready to order the bushing and found this listed on there website, is was only $10 more then the bushing and is greaseable so i figured why not, i looked on youtube but found nothing so far. ill figure it out i hope

Hey Youngvintagecarlover, there are a few ways to see if something is not working electrically. If you push on a window switch and hear nothing, and look at the amp meter and see no movement, chances are there is no power to the window switches. If there is no power to the window switches, it is always the relay. The relay has 3 wires going to it. Looking at the relay from the front of the car, it has 3 wires, one on the left, one in the center and one on the right. Jump the one in the center to the one on the right and your bypassing the relay. The window switches were also bad so I pulled out the window switch plate, unplugged the plate and jumped across the plugs on the car coming out of the center console.

Hey Thank you Youngvintagecarlover, I appreciate that. The 66 with cruise and C6 has the same detent as the others. That part of the car is not different, only the electronics and those pieces that need to hold the different electronics are different like steering wheel and PRNDL hub. The shift lever and shift hub and shift tube are all the same. All 1966 C6 Thunderbirds have 2 neutral safety switches, one on the trans that is the real neutral safety switch, and one on the steering column, same neutral safety switch as on the 64 and 65 and 66 with the cruisomatic trans, that just operates the emergency brake. Something needs to release the emergency brake so they just left that neutral safety switch there on C6 cars. They are different in design of course too. Thanks.

Hey Alvin, yeah, its weird why they did what they did. Yeah, Ive still have a lot of crap left over from my shop in LA. Stuff Ill probably never sell. I often wonder what will happen to all of it when Im gone.

Thanks Scott. Yeah, who knows why they did what they did. There were a lot of drugs back then so maybe thats the reason??? lol

Yes, your stats are correct. 64's are weird to say the least. I really cant figure out why they redesigned the detent unless they just decided they did it wrong in the first place??? Who knows what these guys were thinking.

Pedal play or a low pedal is always for several reasons. 1. the rod that goes into the back of the master cylinder is adjusted incorrectly. 2. the brake shoes are not adjusted properly. 3. there is air in the brake hydraulic system. In some cases, things are not put together properly, parts are missing or incorrect. Ive seen both. I cant really think of any other reason for a low pedal unless its for some really obscure situation. Normally its one of the above. Thank you and good luck.

Ok Nick i think i need a phone call, up to my neck in brake issues

@@dchosier here is my email. Send me your phone number. tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net

Hey Scott, yes, the detents are almost never bad. Ive seen a few, and like this one, it was broken. Very rare to see that. Its always the shift arm.