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Thank you very much. Im glad that these videos will help you. Good luck in your search.

Cool. I have one too, white with a ember glow interior. Youll love it.

Hopefully we will get all that back now.

Hey Larry, yes that's a very good idea. Ill keep that in mind the next time I do that. Thanks.

Hey Paul, I tried that, tried to fit the bracket, modify the bracket, etc, and it didnt work. You can try to fit your original bracket, maybe you can see something that I didnt? Good luck.

I have some of those parts. Ill see what I have.

@ hey nick where you able to find them?

@@adriancastillo5521 I have one front leaf spring hanger assembly complete. This is the part that holds the leaf spring to the car, the leaf spring is physically attached to the hangar assembly. In the book, it is called the front shackle assembly but there is more to it than just the shackle. There is also a box or cage as you described that goes around the hangar assembly. I do not have the box/cage, only the hangar assembly. In the parts illustration book, the box is part number 5775.

@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 I see thanks for looking I appreciate the time, needed just the cages. Cheers

I have an original Arizona rust free step bumper and West Coast mirrors off a 60 Apache if the buyer is interested

@@stevepatzer7044 I doubt he is interested in making any upgrades since he is trying to sell it but Ill certainly pass that info on. Thanks.

Yeah, the NS switch could be the problem with the reverse lights. Could also be the bulbs and or the bulb sockets. Check those too. Good luck.

Hey Scott, yes I removed them because I know that Ill never get the system working and its in the way and looks bad so I removed it. I also removed the cruise only steering wheel and this is a funny story. The interior color on my car is emberglow/copper. I called Birds Nest for a non cruise steering wheel and they said, "well I think we only have one good steering wheel and its an odd color, I think its that weird emberglow/copper color." What are the odds. The steering wheel was in mint condition. So everything looks great and like it was meant to be. Thanks.

I watched a shorts Video where the guy eliminated the Booster and installed a manual Willwood dual master with an adjustable proportion valve and he's very happy. And allows You to buy regular Valve Covers . Or Hydraulic booster run off your power steering is your next option if you're not satisfied with manual brakes.

At abut 6:34 I show the routing of the heater hoses for 66 thunderbird only. 1964-65 are different. I dont have anything showing the 64-65 Thunderbird heater hose placement and its difficult to explain it without pointing it out.

Hey Jet, thank you very much. Is the car finished? Whats it like?

Hey, there are a few ways. Once on the car with fluid in it, you can have someone push the brake pedal and hold it down, then you open one of the brake lines slightly so air and fluid can come out. The pedal will go to the floor and while the person holding the brake pedal down continues to hold the pedal down, you tighten the brake line and only then can the person holding the brake pedal let go. You repeat this a few times per brake line at the master cylinder. This purges the air out of the master cylinder. You can also, with the master on the car with fluid in it, you can tickle the pedal up and down. This means push it down GENTLY until you see bubbles come up in the master cylinder. Push the pedal down only as far as you need to get bubbles. Once the bubbles stop, release the pedal and continue this until the bubbles stop completely. This usually takes 20 to 40 pushes of the pedal roughly. Good luck.

Hey, the neutral safety switch on a C6 for starting the car and reverse is on the transmission. The one on the steering column is exactly the same as on 64-65's and, on C6 cars, it only controls the emergency brake. Your emergency brake pedal assembly probably has a bad vacuum motor and return spring. Thats usually what goes bad with them. You can still apply the brake if you manually pull the manual release lever back when applying it and pushing the lever down when releasing it. If you look under the dash, you will see the manual release lever. Pull it towards the drivers seat so the pedal can lock. Push it towards the firewall to release the brake once they have been applied. Good luck.

Hey youngvintagecarlover, it sound like your shift lever has the wear grove and it probably needs to be welded or buy a new one. Make sure the roll pin hole is okay and not hogged out. The detent is probably okay. A bad lower steering column bushing can also cause the shift lever to feel sloppy. Assuming the trans dip stick is correct, if there is no fluid registering on the dip stick, then you are low on fluid. You can be as much as around 4 quarts low and the trans will still work. Remember to check the trans fluid only when it is running. Remember that if you run the car and you are not in the car holding the brake, slide the steering column to the right and put on the emergency brake. The fact that you have to lift the shift lever is an indication of something wrong such as a worn out shift lever, bad lower steering column, and or the shift linkage itself being bad. However, it is also preference to adjust it so you have to lift it slightly to get it to slide it to the right. My preference is not to have that. I like to put the car into park and then just slide the steering wheel over without having to lift it. I hope that has helped. Good luck, Nick

Hey Gerald, yes the door window must be removed first before you can remove the vent window. Once the door window is out, you can then remove the mechanism that turns the vent window, the part the vent window handle is attached to. Then there are 2 bolts and 2 nuts, and one 5/16 hex screw holding the assembly to the door. These are easy to identify except for the 5/16 hex screw. Its at the top of the door helping to hold the vent window to the outer door skin. Its kind of inside a hole. They are hard to take out and usually they break off because they rust. Once you get those undone, the vent window comes out. Its not hard. Good luck.

Hello, yes Id love to help you. My email is tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net Send me an email with contact info and we can start there. Thanks

@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426email was sent yesterday. Thanks

Hey Chuck, long time no talk. I hope your rocket hobby is going well. You dont usually have to replace the drive shaft because they dont take too much damage. You should inspect it to make sure it doesnt have too much wear but I never replace them. They are pretty durable. Thanks, Nick

Fatsco Transmission Parts. 800-524-0485

Thanks Mike.

Hey Corey, my email is tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net Contact me any time and I will do what I can to help you. Thank you very much for the very kind words. I appreciate that very much and Im glad that the videos have helped you. At least Im doing something right. lol

@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thank you for the info! Please check your inbox when you get time. All the best to you good sir!

@@coreybrown8404 Hey Corey, I never got your email. Check to make sure you sent it to the correct email. thanks.

Hey Michael, I have the lever for the NS switch, no worries mate. The firewall boot is available from Birds Nest or any other Thunderbird dealer. However, you do not cut them in half to install, that defeats the whole purpose of the boot. You must remove the steering column completely, disassemble it completely to install it. Sorry, not one of Fords better ideas. My email is tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net. Send me your address and Ill mail you the lever. Thanks.

Hey Michael, the rod attaches to another shorter L shaped rod with two threaded holes. The two bolts that go into those two threaded holes pass through the long slot on the rod. The two rods bolt to the slide mechanism on the drivers side of it. There is an adjustable bolt with the rubber head, the rod bolts to that with a nut. The other side of the rod, the drivers side. bolts to where the lower dash bolts to the side wall. There is a threaded stud with a nut in the middle, . that stud holds the dash to the L bracket on the side wall and the rod bolts to the other side of that stud. I hope that makes sense. Thanks.

Hey Lance, a vacuum check valve is always used on vacuum systems. They are a one way valve to prevent air from being forced into the vacuum system when the engine back fires or something like that. It protects the vacuum system since it must be under vacuum, not pressure. If the car were to back fire, then it could blow out all the vacuum motors. So the check valve allows the engine to suck out all the air, create vacuum, but it does not let air back into the vacuum system. So its important to install the check valve properly too obviously. The extra port on the brass fitting is for the vacuum door lock system. This car does not have that so that fitting is capped off. I hope that has helped. Thanks.

Hey Michael, test EVERYTHING before you reinstall the dash. I take all the wires off the back of the dash, plug them into the harnesses on the car, make all the necessary grounds and I check everything, gauges, bulbs, wipers, ebrake, etc. I also run the vacuum system and make sure the heater and AC work perfectly before going forward. Good luck.

Hey Michael, thank you very much. I think your talking about the thermostatic control valve. Yes, you can bypass it and just take the brown vacuum hose to the heater valve. good luck

You dont find them this original, shes really a beauty in person.

No, the auction will be in a few weeks, probably the end of sept or first week of Oct hopefully. Ill keep everyone informed.

Good question. I reproduced the spring not knowing that the reproduction vacuum motor works opposite to the original. Thats hard to explain but it now needs two springs to return it because of that. Ill try by saying that the neutral position of the motor is relaxed with the lever out so it returns easily. The reproductions neutral position has the lever in, so you have to pull it out and attach it to the release lever and the two springs need to help to pull it back, otherwise it fights to go back in. Stupid but I guess its better than nothing.

As soon as I have the auction info, Ill repost the video with that information. Thanks.

It sure is. Thanks Alvin.

Hey, its 7000 ft above sea level and im dying out here!!

It's a really nice truck. Does your mother know you're playing on the computer and you're being a dick?

Can you forward the email address...thanks

@@josephclarke4244 my email address is in the description tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net

The steering column is still mounted in the car.

Hey Mike, no, it is not pressed on but they do stick and are sometimes hard to get off.

Thanks Alvin.

Sometimes there are a few wires under that dash that do not connect to anything. Not many, just a few. That may be one of them. Without being under the dash at the moment, I dont know what that wire is for. Ill look into it.

Hey, the windows in my 66 stick sometimes too so I just dont roll them up all the way. Not using them helps to cause them to stick too.

Hey Don, yes thats right. Why did they change a good thing?

Hey George, the 64-66 gear kit does not come with the worm gear. The worm gears are part of the armature and cannot be removed and they do not wear out. They can rust but they dont wear out like the earlier ones. I can imagine that Ford must have used these gears in a great many cars. Thanks.

Hey Frank, for 1964-66, Napa had those window motor gears. Birds Nest also has those too. I would think that any other Thunderbird supplier would have them too.