Onewheel Pint X Flaw - Battery Compartment Wiring Issues
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- Опубліковано 22 тра 2023
- The Onewheel Pint X has several known issues all tied to the battery compartment. This video shows a basic teardown and how to inspect for the following issues
1) Balancing Wires with damaged wire insulation to a sharp edges in the battery box
2) Feed wire from battery pack breaking due to short negative wire
3) Charging connector on BMS melting due to inadequate connector spec when using the Hypercharger.
Thanks for raising awareness about this issue and keeping people safe!
You posted this just in time when I need to open the battery pack to inspect the wires! MVP! Very informative. Looking forward to the OWIE installation video.
Thank you for your video!!!
I have 950 miles on my Pint x. My wires were pinched, but copper wasn’t visible. I used a small chisel to remove the plastic on the housing and added liquid electrical tape to the wires. Everything went smooth!!
This video might've saved my life!
I ride my Pint X over single tracks and rocks, and a few of the balance lead cables we're getting cut in at around 420 miles!
I ended up recessing the blue pack covering a bit and re-doing the wires that had exposed copper or that had danger of eventually
rupturing due to friction.
I soldered the leads individually, covered them in very thin headshrink, and then added a large heatshrink around the whole balance lead at the critical
zone, after of course having removed the ribs in the plastic part.
Thanks a million!
Thank you for taking time to show us all and for the extra information - much appreciated
Man , you need to rename this video “ how to take apart pint x - battery removal & flaw”. It’s exactly the video we need but I wouldn’t have clicked on it because it’s a bad title, luckily I accidentally did
Did this repair myself yesterday. 101 miles on my pint x and you could see where the wires were pinched but no damage yet thankfully! Cut the notch out and added a piece of electrical tape over the area to keep it smooth. Board went back together and started up no issues! Thanks!!! Would’ve had no idea about this if not for coming across this video
Thanks for posting such a easy to follow video. Im glad you explained the order to reconnect the BMS.
The BMS wires had clear signs of being shreeded against the plastic (436km/270mil). I cleared away excess plastic on both BMS/power and smoothed both sides.
I also removed some plastic hard edges from the BMS cover on the power side (@northuniverse) great tip.
Back together and riding fine!!
I had this issue with the battery leads on my PintX. I re-soldered many of the wires, and re-soldered the battery leads back on. Unfortunately, it damaged the BMS and had to have the BMS repaired. I dremeled and sanded the ledge out and I haven’t had the issue since. +1870 miles and still kicking!
Thank you for the video. Got to my pint x battery just in time. Have 265 miles on mine and can confirm the issue. I was lucky to not see any copper but saw some wear on the wires.
I can’t believe they won’t own up to this. We need a class action lawsuit.
Thank you for posting this much needed video!
Just used this video to fix my pint x. Appreciate it!
21:00 I believe that this cover also induces stress onto the wires and should be trimmed.
Just finished this mod on my Pint X. With only 320 miles and no drop offs, my wires were pretty damaged. One looked like it could be broken, by how badly it was crimped. I removed the offending plastic with a dremel, coated the wires with spray-on liquid electric tape, and reassembled it. Wish I had caught it sooner.
great video TY 🙏🏽
Where are you out of? Awesome video.
Thanks for this!!!
Ugh tbis sucks i do not want to r ake mine apart
Hi! Thank you for sharing this descriptive video! I have a brand new Pint X that I bought a couple months ago and only have 115 miles on it. About a week ago after a ride, I noticed there was something in the front of the board rattling around. I thought a rock got into the board somewhere and didn’t think anything of it. Then a couple days ago I went for a ride and I was going about 5 miles an hour when the board just stopped and shut off and threw me off. I couldn’t get it back on and noticed that the wheel doesn’t move freely anymore like it did before when it was off. It moves a little but with resistance. Do you have any information of what this could be and how to fix it? I’ve heard of a power button bolt on the original Pint that used to come off but like I said this is a brand new Pint X and they replaced that bolt with a plastic one. Please help and thank you in advance.
FYI to anyone with a Pint X: DO NOT just assume your board won't be effected by this cable chafing issue (sounds like 100% of them are effected actually), or do not assume just because your board is new that you don't need to worry about it for awhile... My board only has 9 miles on it (yes, nine) and still looks in pristine condition, but I just finished taking my board apart to fix this issue by grinding down the plastic housing around the cable, and there were ALREADY very visible signs of wire chafing on those balance leads!! None of the wires were worn all the way through to the copper yet, but some of the wires were already pretty close to being worn through to the copper...
Great video, I was going to purchase a Pint X soon, should I do the modifications from day 1 to ensure its safe into the future? I live in a completely different country to FM so even getting them to repair anything would be a nightmare in shipping costs alone
What does the BMS RS45 link do? I’m trying to build my own diy one wheel using an original one wheel pint battery but I can’t get power out of the bms to the electronics. I’m thinking it might be something where the bms doesn’t know to turn on since I don’t have the original one wheel controller. Can you help me with this?
Did you have a link for the tools?
Do you know if this also exists with the original pint? Considering getting a chibattery quart battery upgrade but would like to know if this issue exists on original pint while saving for the battery upgrade.
The original pint has been reported to have abrasion on the balancing wires. The thing is, lots of people upgrade the pint and ditch the stock battery anyways.
Is there anywhere to get a replacement battery for pint x if the wires are broken ?
I had my negative lead resoldered for 30 bucks and it’s back up and running, modified the housing so nothing happens again.
Anyone know if the most recent Pint X's have these battery issues?
Can you tell me what size of security torque bit it is to get inside the panel I have the nut on the back of my on and off button that has fallen off and bouncing around inside it looks like a 5 point but I’m not 100 percent sure.
Everything going well in the breakdown until the 2 big axle bolts. Got one of them loosened, but the other one doesn't want to budge and I'm worried about stripping it. Any tips??
They are infamous for being coated in loctite. Sometimes they can break completely during disassembly, you can find a replacement bolt that someone found on the pintxflaw site.
I followed the BMS sequence on this video and when I powered up the board my battery level was stuck at 1% with a lit Yellow led. I then left it on the charger for an hour (or til charged) and it corrected itself. Phew!
Same here, board just reassembled and currently on the charger, fingers crossed!
Edit: all good after a while on the charger, too
@@guillaumegen correct order is
BMS XR/P/Px
Removal
Balance
Output to controller
Data connector
Wait 5 mins
Battery input
Reinstallation
Battery input
Wait 5 mins
Data connector
Output to controller
Balance
@@JR_69420 Thanks for sharing!
@@aboogzlife I read the controller gets fried when you do it out of sequence
You mentioned a trick to shrink the o-ring. Please do share!
Put it in boiling water for 5 minutes
What happens if I ask future motion to fix it? Will they? I have less than 50 miles on mine probably been 1 year of ownership.
My Pint X is about 2 weeks old. I trust myself to disassemble and remediate more than FM. Have you seen some of the shoddy warranty work they do? I love the riding but won't buy another FM product. I'd rather pay in crypto for a Chinese DIY product since the FM really is DIY anyway. Greed has taken great hold on the founders/owners of FM. Sad and dangerous.
Thank you for the detailed video. I just completed the tear down of my 23 mile Pint X. No chaffing yet but there was visible marks/impingement. So easy to receive the area, shame on FM for doing such shoddy USA assembly! and people wonder why so much is done overseas these days! While I had it apart I sealed the controller connectors Ala Badger and added contact enhancer (Caig Gold) to all gold interface pins. Works great and the new tire (TFL Enduro) is SO much better. It's both more stable and initiates a carve easier with more stability...control. Highly recommended along with rim/Life Savers also by The Float Life.
all facts 💯 waitin for the TFL thumbs up ahead of my FloatWheel purchase 🤙🏾
How can a recall not be forced?
I thought if you remove the battery the board wouldn't power up anymore and would need to be sent to fm, am I wrong?
So this would not be covered under waranty?
Sorry if I missed it in the video - but this does void the warranty right?
I want to check if I have the issue, but I don't want to void that early :/
It does but would you rather risk a board shutdown at the wrong time? FM might fix it then but do you trust them to fix something they should have solved during design? I think it's becoming quite clear that FM is designing these to fail shortly after warranty expires. Remember the battery only has 6 months warranty anyway. They have a history of blaming the user instead of improving/fixing their designs and taking responsibility.
he already said that for them to deny your warranty for something like that is basically legally fightable & winnable. Our Safety First
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson-Moss_Warranty_Act - In a nutshell, they have to prove that work or changes or mods you did were at fault. 'Warrantors cannot require that only branded parts be used with the product in order to retain the warranty.'
Great Video - My pint X just arrived yesterday. Being brand new I'm reluctant to open it up. Does anyone know if future motion has corrected this issue?
Thanks again!!
They have not.
Plus, sending the board to them it will take ages better be safe than sorry, this videos among others show how to do it properly, follow the steps and you should be fine.
My pint x did this also it’s a issue!!
I did my disassembly by removing just the left side axle bolts and sliding out the battery box, keeping most of the board together
Yep, that will work as well! Given the small gauge of the RS485 Link between the Controller and the battery box I don't like flexing the cable more than I need to, so I tend to take it more apart than others :)
@@CrivyWheel I wasn't aware of there being a small gauge in that connection, thank you for letting me know about that. I'll be sure to be a lot more gentle with it!
So should i just take the whole thing apart
@@lookforthegood1 id say that if you do what James did in this video, it's the safest way to get it done. It's probably worth the extra time disassembling in full because it's easier to modify the battery housing that way.
Before you do this, make sure you are 100% ready, have all the necessary tools and have a detailed plan.
@@northuniverse Lol guess what, I thought I was ready but i didnt have the 5 point stars so i just ordered them put my board back together and tomorrow ill do it again
18:45 they went so cheap for this integral component.
So many design flaws in one battery box?!? 1. bad balancing lead routing. 2. short negative main power lead. 3. charge plug and wiring is not rated properly. 4. No connector between battery and controller: it is one unit, consisting of two boxes. 5. Exotic screws, hampering maintenance tasks.
Nice product.
Really.
LOL
Future motion is a garbage company. I say thiswith 50,000km on xr model boards, they were their best made model and ive still fixed so many things on them.. vesc is so much better, I still ride the xr often but the vesc is better in 90% of scenarios.. and the 10 that it's not are small transitions and only because I did not stick option the vesc controller.