Oof... 1 of the amps of all time... | Silvertone Twin Twelve Model 1484 Repair Pt.1

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  • Опубліковано 16 гру 2024

КОМЕНТАРІ • 35

  • @smellytele9629
    @smellytele9629 10 місяців тому +1

    Mine has been modded with a real spring reverb tank since the original "reverb" unit was broke and sucked. I also had the tremolo modded for a wider speed span. And lastly, a genuine wooden cab. It sounds great, but I do not take it out for gigs. The tremolo is really, really good.

  • @chokkan7
    @chokkan7 7 місяців тому

    Considering that Fender was in many respects a garage industry in its early days which turned out to be wildly successful, they wrote the book in so many ways for the level of QC that players came to expect. Leo designed amps to be durable with a loud, clean tone because that's what the working musicians who frequented his shop told him they needed. Built like a tank, we often took it for granted that all amps should last 50, 60 years and beyond with minimal maintenance. With the advent of the British invasion of the mid '60s, Fender had all it could handle to keep up with demand, which opened a window of opportunity for Nat Daniels and others to build their own versions as quickly and as cheaply as possible. Some of these sounded 'interesting' just because they were something other than Fenders, but Leo built his amps with durability and easy maintenance in mind...and it shows. I personally like a number of other vintage amps for their idiosyncracies, but you've gotta hand it to Leo for having the craftsmanship and character to put out a product of the quality that he did.

  • @jerrywatt6813
    @jerrywatt6813 10 місяців тому

    A couple years ago Robert Dixon at the AmpHole had two of these and each came with a bag of parts he replaced ha ha and the cabinets needed to be replaced but they have a cool vibe all their own cheers

  • @songshineoriginalmusic
    @songshineoriginalmusic 9 місяців тому

    I just finished fully recapping this amp today and boy what a nightmare. But it is done professionally with Sprague Atoms mostly. I used discrete filter caps (the original is twist tabbed not riveted by the way) Added a grounded power cable and a 1/4' female jack for the speaker output. i used a small pcb mounted to the wood side nearest the reverb pan with L brackets and landed the filter caps leads there. It is super clean. The amp is what it is, a budget entry level amp that sounds okay. Reverb does not work, but I doubt it is worth trying to fix. All in all one of the worst repair experiences I have had in terms of time and I have been doing this since the 80's. It took a lot of forethought to come up with a wiring scheme I feel will last and serve the amp, but I am proud of how it came out.

    • @YeatzeeGuitar
      @YeatzeeGuitar  9 місяців тому +1

      Nice! If you check the other parts of the series you'll see I did very similar for this one, quite a pain! Did you change the input jacks to fender style? I really like that mod with this.

    • @songshineoriginalmusic
      @songshineoriginalmusic 9 місяців тому

      @@YeatzeeGuitar These have the switchcraft 1/4" input jack that I think work well after using a 1500 grade sandpaper lightly on the tips and inside the rings with a dowel. I like them because there are no plastic parts to break and are mechanically sound.

    • @YeatzeeGuitar
      @YeatzeeGuitar  9 місяців тому

      @@songshineoriginalmusic I installed switchcraft shorting jacks and did the high/low input setup you see on fenders with the 1meg and two 68k's.

    • @songshineoriginalmusic
      @songshineoriginalmusic 9 місяців тому

      @@YeatzeeGuitar Ah, I see. Did the shorting jacks make any difference to the noise when the amp is idling with no inputs? I installed one at the output jack like Fender does. The high/low inputs mod - did you note that the inputs all seem high as the reason to do it?

    • @YeatzeeGuitar
      @YeatzeeGuitar  9 місяців тому

      @@songshineoriginalmusic yes great for reducing noise and making the amp a tad more versatile.

  • @goodun2974
    @goodun2974 11 місяців тому

    At 12:12 , after removing as much solder as possible with solderwick, grab the stub of cutoff lead with needlenose pliers, heat the joint again, and shake the lead as you remove the iron. The solder will crystallize as it cools ---- some of it may crumble and fall away ---- and usually won't bond fully to the lead because you're intentionally creating a cold solder joint. The component lead should now move somewhat freely within the eyelet and you may be able to find the far end of it and unwrap it a little from the eyelet with pliers or a dental pick, or nip it in the middle with miniature wire cutters. PS, next time, cut the component lead closer to the capacitor so you've got more distance between the needlenose and the terminal; more wiggle room and less of a heatsinking effect. Unfortunately, the above technique doesnt work as well when you have five component leads on one terminal; but if it was just three leads you'd have the old lead out in a jiffy with my technjque. BTW, I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who pulls the solderwick past the terminal being desoldered; I've done this for years but rarely see anyone else doing it!.

    • @YeatzeeGuitar
      @YeatzeeGuitar  11 місяців тому

      Thanks man! Yeah I did try that (off cam), but because the terminal strip is riveted to cardboard or whatever flimsy material that divider is made of I was afraid putting any real strain on it trying to wiggle the lead would possibly cause a tear off or damage it. Good tip on leaving the lead longer though, I'll try to remember that

    • @goodun2974
      @goodun2974 11 місяців тому

      @@YeatzeeGuitar , I also noticed that the terminal strip riveted to the chassis closest to the input jacks (hich has the load or grid resistors is going to it ---- 68K?) has a corroded green rivet. If that's actually a circuit grounding point, make sure to drill out that rivet and put a bolt in there. Galvanic corrosion is a problem you'll run into with amplifiers that use an aluminum chassis, brass ( or aluminum, or steel) rivets, and whatever plated copper or brass or steel the terminal strips are made from. The amplifier was obviously stored somewhere damp so you could expect the worst when it comes to corrosion at the grounding points. The input jacks don't even have a ground wire and are simply grounded by being bolted to the chassis, so make sure they're clean and tight!

    • @YeatzeeGuitar
      @YeatzeeGuitar  11 місяців тому +1

      @@goodun2974 I recommended to the owner replacing the input jacks and redoing it fender style with high low inputs and jacks that shunt vs always open

    • @goodun2974
      @goodun2974 11 місяців тому

      @@YeatzeeGuitar , Excellent idea and I hope he goes for it.

  • @MichaelSmith-rn1qw
    @MichaelSmith-rn1qw 11 місяців тому

    That thing looks like a nightmare to work on. Can't say if I've ever seen masonite used inside of an amp before. Good Luck!

  • @taylorwerner384
    @taylorwerner384 8 місяців тому

    I have a 1482 on my bench that’s getting recapped.

  • @mattfink9317
    @mattfink9317 10 місяців тому

    I have one of these and need to replace all the capacitors. Is there any way I could get a list of the caps needed to replace the old ones or point me in the direction of where to get them.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m not an amp tech but I can change out the caps without 💀myself lol! Thanks in advance!!

    • @YeatzeeGuitar
      @YeatzeeGuitar  10 місяців тому

      I think you saw the other videos but if not just watch the series I name them all. Tubesandmore is the website

  • @southerner66
    @southerner66 7 місяців тому

    These are strangely and cheaply built amps, but they're not really that hard to work on, nothing like, say one of the Thomas Organ/Vox solid-state amps where you have to desolder all the wires from the PCB to service any of the components. If you're going to do this professionally, you at least need a solder sucker if you can't afford a soldering iron with a vacuum pump.

  • @roncarter2188
    @roncarter2188 11 місяців тому

    I think these amps are a real mess inside and it's a lot of work to recap one of these and go through it and you did a good job. I've had a couple of these and I'm just not crazy about them like a lot of people are I think they're noisy and I think the tone is not so much to my liking but that's me, others love them.

  • @bonzology322
    @bonzology322 9 місяців тому

    test the damn caps and if they are ok LEAVE THEM! and if they ain't right...., try to reform them, i'm sick of watching 1/2 rse's ruin these classics

    • @YeatzeeGuitar
      @YeatzeeGuitar  9 місяців тому

      ...? You think I ruined this silvertone by recapping it?

    • @bonzology322
      @bonzology322 9 місяців тому

      @@YeatzeeGuitar i think you and anyone else working on a classics should TEST the parts for function before making arbitrary changes and assumptions, if you think the components don't matter? you have a lot to learn about classic amp maintenance

    • @YeatzeeGuitar
      @YeatzeeGuitar  9 місяців тому +1

      I dont see any reason to leave electrolytics in a 60 year old amp that was originally made as cheap as possible. New caps are a few bucks each, there's no reason not to on this.

    • @bonzology322
      @bonzology322 9 місяців тому

      @@YeatzeeGuitar and that’s why you are just another vapid mouth breather ruining classic amps

    • @southerner66
      @southerner66 7 місяців тому

      @@YeatzeeGuitar Only an idiot would leave 60 year-old electrolytics in an amp, but there are lots of idiots out there who believe in "magic parts" or who think every amp needs to be conserved like a museum piece. There are some guys who won't replace a single component in vintage Fender amps even if the amp is inoperable, claiming that it would "ruin the collector value." Before I learned better, I left some "good testing" electrolytics in old amps, and then, when the amp went back into regular use, they'd fail in a few months.

  • @74cannelle
    @74cannelle 11 місяців тому

    I think I would have j-hooked the new caps to the old leads … 🫤

    • @YeatzeeGuitar
      @YeatzeeGuitar  11 місяців тому +1

      I hate the look of that, can't bring myself to J hook unless I absolutely have to.

    • @74cannelle
      @74cannelle 11 місяців тому

      Yeah I agree but considering the value of the amp and the time involved, I think I would have done it. Not pretty but if well done it won’t go anywhere 😉

    • @YeatzeeGuitar
      @YeatzeeGuitar  11 місяців тому

      @@74cannelle COMPLETELY fair, and probably the smart move. It just hurts me to do it 😭

    • @74cannelle
      @74cannelle 11 місяців тому

      I can understand 🤣🤣. I’m pretty picky myself 😉

    • @goodun2974
      @goodun2974 11 місяців тому +1

      ​@@YeatzeeGuitar, watching one person on UA-cam J-hook component leads probably tends to encourage hundreds of other people to do the same ---- which is why it's best avoided!