I HAD to get creative... | Silvertone Twin Twelve Model 1484 Repair Pt.2

Roast me in the comments.
Silvertone Twin Twelve 1484 Playlist: • Silvertone Twin Twelve...
00:00 - Intro
01:22 - Talked to the owner
03:13 - New 100uF caps installed
10:44 - Can cap replacement dilemma / plan
15:37 - Resistor checks
17:50 - Can cap replacement is a go
24:36 - And we're done! Flame me in the comments.
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[@mattfink9317]

These are great videos thank you for showing the whole process. I bought one of these a year ago and I thought it just had scratchy pots but need to replace all the caps.there are a couple of repair videos on the twin 12’s but nothing this extensive so you’re videos will be very helpful for me! been waiting over a year for someone to show the actual process.

[@Starcrunch72]

I am also working on one of these right now and was a little stymied on where and how to fly the replacements for the multi-section cap. I'm also wishing I had that terminal strip you had because the 5 position strip (center ground) I started to lay the module out on, isn't going to fit where I thought it would....although if I remove the ground shield tube that is bolted down, maybe it would fit there....thinking out loud---subscribed!

[@YeatzeeGuitar]

I know such a pain! I was glad to have those terminal strips, I thought I'd be able to use a normal one as well but couldn't find a good spot. Good luck!

[@matthewf1979]

Great problem solving!

[@IL2TXGunslinger]

I didn't know about MOD Caps. Thanks! Since they are physically smaller if they operate at the same temp, perhaps they don't create as much heat as traditional F&T's or Sprague sized units.

[@YeatzeeGuitar]

They actually tend to have better heat tolerance ratings than F&T as well!

[@huddyskiba1]

These things are such a pain. The way I did it was suck solder out, snip one top of the wrap, then heat it up and remove it like you're cutting a chain one link at a time, then repeat for the next wrap so you’re removing the next link. Such a pain, not really worth the effort. I'm only 5 mins in and hoping you've found a better solution so i can get excited about doing another one of these amps in the future. 🍻 TBD 🍻

[@YeatzeeGuitar]

😂 Well pretty much did the same thing. Cut part of the link and pull out what you can rinse repeat.

[@cascadiancabinets3980]

There is a pair of 27k resistors feeding plates of the 6CG7 reverb tube that are under rated and should be replaced with at least 1 watt 27k values, even if they test fine.

[@huddyskiba1]

Very good overall! Was the riveted can cap the main detractor/obstacle for using a hayseed can? I know some are skeptical of them for other reasons.

[@YeatzeeGuitar]

Time + Cost. I used a Hayseed on that 70's Princeton from a bit ago and it was great, some people said they used bad caps in it but I asked Hayseed and the specs they sent over were great. Better ratings than just about anything we typically use in amps 🤷‍♂ BUT it was very pricey, these 3 mod caps are just a few bucks each vs $60 or whatever for the hayseed. I also don't know if they make one this skinny.

[@huddyskiba1]

@@YeatzeeGuitar yeah - you did fine. Now that I think about it I don't know that I replaced the can on the one I had - just the voltage doubler and bias. This would've been my first non-PCB amp to work on, second amp overall 6-7 years ago. I was happy as long as it played and didn't have to file some sort of insurance claim. Looking forward to finale!