Oh, eff that. I’m gonna have to litigate. My lawyer will call your lawyer and they can “just talk”. 😂 Oh, for the baffle, run an impedance sweep over it. IME, large flat panels tend to exaggerate resonances from the driver basket. For my OB speakers I’ve either glued some wood strips on the back or screw some strips of angle iron to break up those resonances. 👍
I stream only, primarily from TIDAL. I use an Ultra that is currently going into an integrated tube amp. Since I'm not planning to ever add any other input, I've got a Class A power amp on order. I plan to currently use my Ultra as a preamp, eventually use it as a streamer with an upgraded DAC. Does all of that make sense to you or am I missing something?
Try running that fancy FR driver completely open on top of a tall speaker box with a 10" woofer in the box (with a 5.6 mh inductor). Air core inductor is great! Mounting he open FR driver on the box has two challenges. #1 Actually mounting it on. I started off with heaps of BlueTack. Easy! Now I have eye screws and black zipties! 😂 Looks OK, unexpectadly. #2 I have 1/2" small wooden blocks under my open 10" coaxials (one on the front of the basket and the other on the rear magnet). Laterally held by zipties and eye screws on each side. Simple. 😂 The drivers are sloped like 20° back, to make then sound the best. I use 1" diameter washers as spacers, to tweak driver height, on the front and back driver contact points on the two wooden blocks. The challenge is that it sounds different even with one 1/16" deep washer added or removed. And this happens on both front and rear points, so I can vary the driver height above the speaker box and the slope angle. And it can mean the difference betrwwen sibilant treble and wissy treble, and slow bass in the lows or quick snappy fast lower bass. Unbelievable! I have a crossover on the large med driver and on the central tweeter, but it's the course tweak, the acoustic stuff I just went through, is the fine adjustment. I also do it with my $9, 5" FR drivers. I remove any whizzer or dome on them and replace with mesh in the middle (to stop dust) and a (grain of rice size) foil whizzer right in the middle, on the mesh. FR have way more EXTENDED treble when out of the box, compared to in the box! But the 10" coaxial + 10" woofer speakers are the best speakers I ever made. The 10" open med driver has cutouts in the cone to mitigate SHOUTINESS when open.😂 And to allow the big cone to breathe, simulates a free edge cone, by the shape of the cutaways. The crossover also works hard in that issue. 😂 The BEST medrange I ever heard in a speaker! Not shouty, but really linear sounding with a sense of no resonance, like ribbon speaker sound. The 1" dome tweeter in the center is also cut away! 😂 A (just over) 1/2" hole, burnt into the soft dome, only leaving 1/4" of the dome all around, left. Way, way better treble than the original tweeter! NO ENCLOSED CAVITIES! One of my whimes. 😂 Only the bass reflex woofer box (10" woofer) is an enclosed chamber. The 10" med driver has (rolled off) extra bass fed into it to compliment the woofer bass. A lot better bass than just the woofer, you can hear the "puck" in the kick, like the "puh-huh" you get from a real kick. They go down to like 40 hz and that low stuff can get really slow if you don't have the right spacers under the top driver. But after a lot of tweaking the height and angle, I not only have really tight bass, and the right voice level as well. If I raise the back block height on the driver, by 1/16" (3 washers instead of 2) the voice level will not be loud enogh! Shuch a difference with such a tiny tweak! 😂 So it's not for the faint hearted! But when you get it right you will be hearing people talk in your room (that don't exist). Sounds come from nowhere!
@@hificaveAbout the 10" med driver: It's a "guitar driver" with a 2" voice coil. I added an Alpine 1" dome (car) tweeter in the centre and the hole in the tweeter dome was made with a hot soldering iron. Stuff I forgot to mention! Cheers Big Ears! 🎉
I love the humor throughout the video!! Have you experimented with different wood species and densities? Like the walnut ( used in MACO speakers) or oak (used in Sibelius)? I know you said it’s all about the experimental things before landing on the finish product and I know cost is always a factor. I’m about to endeavor on improving the rigidity and strength of my magnepans by building a wooden frame enclosure , partly to improve the aesthetic look and see what actually happens by adding the extra weight to reduce the vibrations. Also, I want to see if it reduces the energy loss from vibration from the Mylar excursion. I also want to see what it does by making the baffle wider on the magnepan versus slender like it is in stock form.
@@ericelmore887 I have first Gen Maggies in too small a room. Their laser-like imaging means that only one seat gets the full effect, but the rest of the house is simply filled with sound, in a good way. I can only get them about 2ft from the back, and sides due to the room, and they are only about 10ft from any realistic listening positions. Do you think I should try toe out, reversing L and R, or have any other easy ideas? I might get sound deadening to dampen reflections, but I'm not certain that's the problem, and I don't want to get rid of them...I might move some day, or build a better listening room.
I don’t know how the algorithms of UA-cam work. Is monetisation greater the longer the video! That would go someway to explaining why many UA-camrs bulk out their videos with unnecessary padding. When I was at university studying physics, my lecturer explained that 3 years was insufficient tine for her to teach us everything. So, she would give us a topic each week to research ourselves. We would need to back it up with a 15 page A4 typed essay to prove we’d taken on board sufficient knowledge. This routine continued for about 6 months, then she explained that now that we were familiar with the amount of knowledge required on each topic, we were now to reduce our essay lengths to 5 typed A4 pages, but still retaining the same quantity of information. The way to achieve this was to ensure that every sentence we typed, contained a fact. If the sentence did not contain a relevant fact, it was a waste of space and not worth writing. This approach has stood me in good stead throughout my education, career and life. If it were applied to this video, it would reduce the length of the video from 27 minutes to less than a third, making it far easier to ingest, and dare I say, more appealing to a wider audience.
Wow you are really having a good time with these videos. Many of these review videos are pretty tedious. I am also a DIY guy and have only a limited interest in commercial products.
So far so good. We did some tests with and without it to see how it colored the sound, and we didnt notice much, but the reflections of his room might be hidding those differences.
I'll wager a fully and properly treated room will be a better upgrade than either or both the DAC and Preamp upgrade. A straight walled tube is going to produce considerable audible resonances once you hit the right frequency, and being it's for a 100 hz and up driver you are guaranteed to hit that frequency constantly.
Budget friendly (under 2000$) Schiit freya (tube rolling options) Musical Paradise (tube, caps, rectifier rolling options) In the 2500$+ boutique category: Anything from Decware, Spacetech labs and Cryotone (Wathen). Not saying these are the only choices. But these are products, I have used and loved, and know the designers of each, so I would be confident with any of their products.
Love your videos, maybe because i am into full range for a long time now ,and love dipole speakers, but it is also entertaining and well made . Thank you ! I am.also.building a dipole speaker based on the f15 at the moment. Its on the good way ..... tulipa African wood for the front ( 3,6cm) , They are mounted from behind , and the front has a sculpted horn , The feet are very modern looking , made from heavy wood lackered in black , cables are from Duelund , Speaker terminals ate via blue s-120 ones . They are simply beautiful . I do hope they will sound good , i am still testing various crossovers , Maybe i am gonna use a magnetostatic tweeter .....maybe not ....depeding on the auditive results .
Ohh I have more to satyrize. Much more. Its just plain fun. Theres 30+ active hifi youtubers. I simply picked those that felt worked for this round based on what I was discussing.
Very possible, I thought the same. I technically dont use one. Well, I dont for the fullrange driver. The silver10 runs straight wire to a tube amp. I measure where it drops off, then I ise a crown xls amp for a bass driver and lowpass it to fill whats missing. So i only apply a crossover to the bass driver through its dedicated amp to fill in the bottom which is low passed at around 125hz, but in previous builds it was at 75-90hz. Essentially I want my full range driver to run full out straight wire to the amp.
Food for thought. Imagine making a 'snowman' where you have rounded baffles w a tube behind it, still open. Granted your 10" would be upright in the center... but the sound could be interesting. At least in theory. Not sure of the tube sizing. I mean you should be able to find PVC tubes for the smaller drivers... (Look at the Linkwitz LXMinis) Or has this been done before?
@@michaelsegel8758 I dont think it has been done before, but tubes being used as enclosures has, I think I saw Gabster build his speakers using tube enclosures. Not sure of the materials used. Pvc would be interesting to try. The debate I still have is how much baffle surface reduction i can get away with ising tubes behind without losing too much of the “wave guide” effect (sort of) the baffle surface provides.
@@hificave I thinkI saw his video. He made his own plywood drums but I think what I'm looking at may be a bit different since these tubes are open in the end. I guess it would be more akin the the Maco baffle speakers where the Woofer and Mid have cylinders around the drivers still open in the back.
I use cement forming tubes to act as a sound reflective diffuser on my near field/desktop rig. I stand them vertically. I place them to the side and a little behind me. My system already has wide soundstage. With the tubes, I get surrounded with rear soundstage. It’s a great effect. Maybe, if I make them taller, I may achieve an Atmos effect. I’ve used a guitar amplifier stand to tilt my subwoofer upwards. I actually straddle the sub while sitting down. That way, I feel the bass from my feet, to my knees, up to my sternum. Bring your bud back, please.
There is woman audiophile (yes, they do exist) who has 300 grand Avant Guarde speakers (with the gigantic sub in the middle) and all up, the sytem cost a mill! 😂 She reckons the preamp is the #1 most important component in a system. Her preamp cost 90 grand! 😂
Hi All.. been ghost watching for a while so decided to at least subscribe along with my likes... I have a question that may be old but do you ever sell your speakers? cheers
Please investigate adding a Karlson cut to the pipe. It can be at the top of the pipe to reduce the influence of the woofer. I think your sound will improve markedly Another suggestion is to make a narrow baffle similar to the GR Research baffles, with one side with a long wing, but at an angle of 100 degrees from the back of the baffle. This is just for future experiments, but do try the Karlson cut.
OCD MIKEY channel will send you in the correct way to view AUDIOPHILES. I'm also getting good info from your channel as well. Different strokes for different folks because we all have different hearing ranges and preferences. Thus we must ALL AGREE TO DISAGREE on certain details of sound quality and components. Not all of us can dish out $$$$$$$ nowadays. As for myself I still require to keep playing the lottery. Keep up the great work.
That was not my motivation for the tube. The wave cancellation is a side effect, the main goal for the tube is to increase the performance in the lower mids of the driver.
Oh, eff that. I’m gonna have to litigate. My lawyer will call your lawyer and they can “just talk”. 😂
Oh, for the baffle, run an impedance sweep over it. IME, large flat panels tend to exaggerate resonances from the driver basket. For my OB speakers I’ve either glued some wood strips on the back or screw some strips of angle iron to break up those resonances. 👍
😎😅 Im sure these do right now! Thanks for the tip!! I will try it
This was great content as usual and fun to watch. Your video production is awesome. Thank you for cheering us up. 😁
Cheers!
This was awesome!
🤣🤣🤣🤣. You really stepping up your game!🤣🤣🤣. Subbed!
Always good to see you up and at it and wishing you a happy holiday 👍
Happy holidays to you too!
That was hilarious 👍 I subscribed
Lol - this was priceless - the "we're gonna get sued" line. Damn 😂😂😂😂
The angle definitely reminds me of some Dolby Atmos speaker angles to get that full immersion
I love your sense of humor! 😂Interesting content, Great video !
Once you have the sono-tube dialed in, 3D print the final version in ABS. You can apply sound deadening material as needed. Just a thought...
Love it!
Great! Thanks,
You're absolutely fabulous. Super funny. Thank you🙏
Thank you kindly
I stream only, primarily from TIDAL. I use an Ultra that is currently going into an integrated tube amp. Since I'm not planning to ever add any other input, I've got a Class A power amp on order. I plan to currently use my Ultra as a preamp, eventually use it as a streamer with an upgraded DAC. Does all of that make sense to you or am I missing something?
This was great 😂
Try running that fancy FR driver completely open on top of a tall speaker box with a 10" woofer in the box (with a 5.6 mh inductor). Air core inductor is great! Mounting he open FR driver on the box has two challenges.
#1 Actually mounting it on. I started off with heaps of BlueTack. Easy! Now I have eye screws and black zipties! 😂 Looks OK, unexpectadly.
#2 I have 1/2" small wooden blocks under my open 10" coaxials (one on the front of the basket and the other on the rear magnet). Laterally held by zipties and eye screws on each side. Simple. 😂 The drivers are sloped like 20° back, to make then sound the best. I use 1" diameter washers as spacers, to tweak driver height, on the front and back driver contact points on the two wooden blocks.
The challenge is that it sounds different even with one 1/16" deep washer added or removed. And this happens on both front and rear points, so I can vary the driver height above the speaker box and the slope angle. And it can mean the difference betrwwen sibilant treble and wissy treble, and slow bass in the lows or quick snappy fast lower bass. Unbelievable!
I have a crossover on the large med driver and on the central tweeter, but it's the course tweak, the acoustic stuff I just went through, is the fine adjustment. I also do it with my $9, 5" FR drivers. I remove any whizzer or dome on them and replace with mesh in the middle (to stop dust) and a (grain of rice size) foil whizzer right in the middle, on the mesh. FR have way more EXTENDED treble when out of the box, compared to in the box!
But the 10" coaxial + 10" woofer speakers are the best speakers I ever made. The 10" open med driver has cutouts in the cone to mitigate SHOUTINESS when open.😂 And to allow the big cone to breathe, simulates a free edge cone, by the shape of the cutaways. The crossover also works hard in that issue. 😂 The BEST medrange I ever heard in a speaker! Not shouty, but really linear sounding with a sense of no resonance, like ribbon speaker sound.
The 1" dome tweeter in the center is also cut away! 😂 A (just over) 1/2" hole, burnt into the soft dome, only leaving 1/4" of the dome all around, left. Way, way better treble than the original tweeter! NO ENCLOSED CAVITIES! One of my whimes. 😂 Only the bass reflex woofer box (10" woofer) is an enclosed chamber. The 10" med driver has (rolled off) extra bass fed into it to compliment the woofer bass. A lot better bass than just the woofer, you can hear the "puck" in the kick, like the "puh-huh" you get from a real kick.
They go down to like 40 hz and that low stuff can get really slow if you don't have the right spacers under the top driver. But after a lot of tweaking the height and angle, I not only have really tight bass, and the right voice level as well. If I raise the back block height on the driver, by 1/16" (3 washers instead of 2) the voice level will not be loud enogh! Shuch a difference with such a tiny tweak! 😂 So it's not for the faint hearted! But when you get it right you will be hearing people talk in your room (that don't exist). Sounds come from nowhere!
Very interesting approach. Thanks for sharing!
@@hificaveAbout the 10" med driver: It's a "guitar driver" with a 2" voice coil. I added an Alpine 1" dome (car) tweeter in the centre and the hole in the tweeter dome was made with a hot soldering iron. Stuff I forgot to mention! Cheers Big Ears! 🎉
As soon as I saw this video I subscribed and pressed like. 🎉
Awesome!
Geez, your twin brother is a good example of what happens after years of too much weed and booze.
Nice job
Need more Cheech!
I love the humor throughout the video!!
Have you experimented with different wood species and densities? Like the walnut ( used in MACO speakers) or oak (used in Sibelius)? I know you said it’s all about the experimental things before landing on the finish product and I know cost is always a factor.
I’m about to endeavor on improving the rigidity and strength of my magnepans by building a wooden frame enclosure , partly to improve the aesthetic look and see what actually happens by adding the extra weight to reduce the vibrations. Also, I want to see if it reduces the energy loss from vibration from the Mylar excursion. I also want to see what it does by making the baffle wider on the magnepan versus slender like it is in stock form.
I have not ventured in different wood types, but I would like to.
@@ericelmore887 I have first Gen Maggies in too small a room.
Their laser-like imaging means that only one seat gets the full effect, but the rest of the house is simply filled with sound, in a good way.
I can only get them about 2ft from the back, and sides due to the room, and they are only about 10ft from any realistic listening positions.
Do you think I should try toe out, reversing L and R, or have any other easy ideas? I might get sound deadening to dampen reflections, but I'm not certain that's the problem, and I don't want to get rid of them...I might move some day, or build a better listening room.
Keep the tube, lose the baffle. 😂
How about the ABX Baffles route, you mentioned in some of your previous video?
Do you think is it worth to try according to your Silver10 experience?
Its in my wish list. The cost here currently with exchange rate and duty fees have put that on hold for now.
Did I say 13? …. Yes. More to come.
Just ordered f6, which are twice as expensive in Europe for no reason. First "build" in 30 years 😂
I don’t know how the algorithms of UA-cam work. Is monetisation greater the longer the video! That would go someway to explaining why many UA-camrs bulk out their videos with unnecessary padding.
When I was at university studying physics, my lecturer explained that 3 years was insufficient tine for her to teach us everything. So, she would give us a topic each week to research ourselves. We would need to back it up with a 15 page A4 typed essay to prove we’d taken on board sufficient knowledge. This routine continued for about 6 months, then she explained that now that we were familiar with the amount of knowledge required on each topic, we were now to reduce our essay lengths to 5 typed A4 pages, but still retaining the same quantity of information. The way to achieve this was to ensure that every sentence we typed, contained a fact. If the sentence did not contain a relevant fact, it was a waste of space and not worth writing. This approach has stood me in good stead throughout my education, career and life. If it were applied to this video, it would reduce the length of the video from 27 minutes to less than a third, making it far easier to ingest, and dare I say, more appealing to a wider audience.
Wow you are really having a good time with these videos. Many of these review videos are pretty tedious. I am also a DIY guy and have only a limited interest in commercial products.
I am having fun with this one, for sure!
How does your buddy like the sublime active crossover? I'm wrapping up a pair of open baffles and have been considering the sublime
So far so good.
We did some tests with and without it to see how it colored the sound, and we didnt notice much, but the reflections of his room might be hidding those differences.
What was the track you mentioned? Something like Monolith - Sirens........
Sirens by Monolink.
About half way theres these sounds that appear on top of my head in the soundstage.
I'll wager a fully and properly treated room will be a better upgrade than either or both the DAC and Preamp upgrade. A straight walled tube is going to produce considerable audible resonances once you hit the right frequency, and being it's for a 100 hz and up driver you are guaranteed to hit that frequency constantly.
Any pre-amp to recommend ?
Budget friendly (under 2000$)
Schiit freya (tube rolling options)
Musical Paradise (tube, caps, rectifier rolling options)
In the 2500$+ boutique category:
Anything from Decware, Spacetech labs and Cryotone (Wathen).
Not saying these are the only choices. But these are products, I have used and loved, and know the designers of each, so I would be confident with any of their products.
😂😂😂👍🏻
Love your videos, maybe because i am into full range for a long time now ,and love dipole speakers, but it is also entertaining and well made .
Thank you !
I am.also.building a dipole speaker based on the f15 at the moment.
Its on the good way ..... tulipa African wood for the front ( 3,6cm) ,
They are mounted from behind , and the front has a sculpted horn ,
The feet are very modern looking , made from heavy wood lackered in black , cables are from Duelund ,
Speaker terminals ate via blue s-120 ones .
They are simply beautiful .
I do hope they will sound good , i am still testing various crossovers ,
Maybe i am gonna use a magnetostatic tweeter .....maybe not ....depeding on the auditive results .
Who you did not satirize speaks volumes.
Ohh I have more to satyrize. Much more. Its just plain fun. Theres 30+ active hifi youtubers.
I simply picked those that felt worked for this round based on what I was discussing.
Your friend's system choke point has got to be that active x'over....What x'over do you use on your system? Enjoyed the ride. Thanks!
Very possible, I thought the same. I technically dont use one. Well, I dont for the fullrange driver. The silver10 runs straight wire to a tube amp.
I measure where it drops off, then I ise a crown xls amp for a bass driver and lowpass it to fill whats missing. So i only apply a crossover to the bass driver through its dedicated amp to fill in the bottom which is low passed at around 125hz, but in previous builds it was at 75-90hz. Essentially I want my full range driver to run full out straight wire to the amp.
@@hificave Good plan. I guess the different characteristics of the bass amp don't notice that low down, but you get good tight powerful bass.
Fantastic FUN!!!
Best recording I ever heard:
"INSENSATEZ" by Baila Nova (lounge sessions). 🎉
Thank you!
Food for thought.
Imagine making a 'snowman' where you have rounded baffles w a tube behind it, still open.
Granted your 10" would be upright in the center... but the sound could be interesting. At least in theory.
Not sure of the tube sizing. I mean you should be able to find PVC tubes for the smaller drivers... (Look at the Linkwitz LXMinis)
Or has this been done before?
Fascinating.
@@hificave
That doesn't help.
Fascinating as in what sort of drugs am I on... or Fascinating that it could work and sound decent?
@@michaelsegel8758 I dont think it has been done before, but tubes being used as enclosures has, I think I saw Gabster build his speakers using tube enclosures. Not sure of the materials used. Pvc would be interesting to try.
The debate I still have is how much baffle surface reduction i can get away with ising tubes behind without losing too much of the “wave guide” effect (sort of) the baffle surface provides.
@@hificave
I thinkI saw his video. He made his own plywood drums but I think what I'm looking at may be a bit different since these tubes are open in the end. I guess it would be more akin the the Maco baffle speakers where the Woofer and Mid have cylinders around the drivers still open in the back.
@ yeah in that context, nobody to my knowledge has publically made that.
I use cement forming tubes to act as a sound reflective diffuser on my near field/desktop rig.
I stand them vertically. I place them to the side and a little behind me.
My system already has wide soundstage.
With the tubes, I get surrounded with rear soundstage.
It’s a great effect.
Maybe, if I make them taller, I may achieve an Atmos effect.
I’ve used a guitar amplifier stand to tilt my subwoofer upwards. I actually straddle the sub while sitting down. That way, I feel the bass from my feet, to my knees, up to my sternum.
Bring your bud back, please.
There is woman audiophile (yes, they do exist) who has 300 grand Avant Guarde speakers (with the gigantic sub in the middle) and all up, the sytem cost a mill! 😂 She reckons the preamp is the #1 most important component in a system. Her preamp cost 90 grand! 😂
I know who you are refering to. 😎
Love Angie ❤️
Hi All.. been ghost watching for a while so decided to at least subscribe along with my likes... I have a question that may be old but do you ever sell your speakers?
cheers
Never thought of it.
Please investigate adding a Karlson cut to the pipe. It can be at the top of the pipe to reduce the influence of the woofer. I think your sound will improve markedly
Another suggestion is to make a narrow baffle similar to the GR Research baffles, with one side with a long wing, but at an angle of 100 degrees from the back of the baffle. This is just for future experiments, but do try the Karlson cut.
Thanks. Hard to get an audio laugh. Good job 27:30
OCD MIKEY channel will send you in the correct way to view AUDIOPHILES. I'm also getting good info from your channel as well. Different strokes for different folks because we all have different hearing ranges and preferences. Thus we must ALL AGREE TO DISAGREE on certain details of sound quality and components. Not all of us can dish out $$$$$$$ nowadays. As for myself I still require to keep playing the lottery. Keep up the great work.
You're absolutely right, we have to agree to disagree! 😉
The tubes are ok for stopping the backwave but an H frame is easier. Or W frame. See Nelson Pass.
That was not my motivation for the tube. The wave cancellation is a side effect, the main goal for the tube is to increase the performance in the lower mids of the driver.
There is a bit of LX mini inspiration - cool
DAC, or pre-amp? Neither, I'd buy more vinyl ;).
😂😂😂😂
What about my channel?
Hahaha, more coming.
There is no Wife - Andrew Robinson has a crush on Andrew Jones ;)
I'm believing that she is an AI co-host/girlfriend. hahaha
I found his WEIRD back and forth boring and a waste of time. That said. Ive been an OB fan for decades
Great!
So many ads
Sorry