Queen Ant Pro V2 Modified CNC Router
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- In this video, I build the mechanical portion of my modified version of the Queen Ant pro V2 cnc router intended specially to mill aluminum. The modifications I've made in this video will dramatically increase the rigidity of this CNC for faster, deeper cuts into Aluminum. Enjoy the long @$$ video. It was a lot of work!
The super thick Aluminum extrusions can be found here: makerstore.cc/...
the Tslot bed I used can be found here:
www.isel-us.co...
I am using the Masso G3 touch controller that can be found here: www.masso.com....
Thank you so much for using our products! We're absolutely thrilled to hear that you have used the C-Beam Heavy in your machine!
It really is a game changer with this machine! I've exposed a ton of folks to the idea! Thanks for making them available!
I'm an automation eng. You got it right first time. EMF. An absolute killer on extra low voltage signals. Especially when these CNC's are using the VFD on the spindle. EMF is an easy subject to get a handle on. There will be an emitter and a receiver. Its actually more important to get a shield "Loop" on your VFD motor cable to the spindle (VFD = Emitter = the bad boy). Don't remove the VFD from the control box. Your best defense will be to put a metal partition between the VFD and CNC Controller. They have used the 230/24DC PS as a barrier. Next is to ensure that you have 50mm between any CNC control cable and that VFD cable. Using these two steps will get you a long way ahead in EMF mitigation. Whoever designed that box has done a really good job. I hope that helps.
Rad! Thanks for the info.
So many folks saying so many different things. Lol hard to know what's correct when researching. Seems to me it would be both EMI and EMF. Interference and the Frequency lol.
@@QuasarEMotoSports - EMF generally refers to Electro Motive Force.
@@darkwinter7395 Or.. Electromagnetic Frequency.
Or Eat My Farts. Idk I'm pretty new to all this 😂🤣
@darkwinter7395 I was mainly thinking of electromagnetic interference when I filmed this.
@@QuasarEMotoSports You sure your name's not Bart Simpson? 😜
This is fantastic - NO ONE has apparently done this and made a video. Thank you very much!
Absolutely! Shoot me a sub if you liked it. More to come!
@@QuasarEMotoSports done
Where the hell was this video when I started building my CNC.
you nailed it.
Maker Store USA!!! 😁😁 Thanks for the mention!!!
Very interesting to see the improvements you suggest to make it more rigid.
🙏
Killer video bud, I’m with you on the Z axis mod. You can make it using your machine lol. Thanks for taking the time to share all this great info with us!
Thanks for watching! I plan to make it on the queen ant for sure. I could make it on my mill, but I like the idea of my machine improving itself lol
The flat spot is meant for the grub screw to grip properly. Without it, it will break loose.
If you mean on the motor shaft, it's not that type of collar. It's the clamping type, not with the grub screw that hits the shaft. The reason I suggested the way I did is because with the gap in the collar over the flat spot, the clamping collar will have the most surface area touching the motor shaft.
Hope that helps.
One way to stiffen the Z-axis c-beam would be to use 10mm Rebar inside of the openings in the extrusion (A short length of Rebar in each of the 5 openings), and surround those with epoxy granite. You could actually do that with the 4040 extrusion of the x-axis as well; I believe you could squash in four 10mm Rebar surrounded by epoxy granite to stiffen that 4040 extrusion even more.
Subbed. Looking forward to seeing it cut!
probably will struggle with 1018 steel.
Thanks for the sub! New cutting videos are up
Very interested in watching future videos and projects come to life with this cnc. I was initially looking at getting this exact one but ultimately went with the Millright Mega V XL. Would love to scoop that DSP off of your hands and would pay shipping if chosen.
Sweet I'll keep you in mind for the dsp!
Very cool!
Hi. At 46:08 the nut need to be mounted on the other way (rotated of 180°). The flat part (machined) need to be in contact with the ball bearing
Good catch! I did fix that, however I didn't get it on video. I appreciate the comment!
a box is way stronger than an I beam in the twist direction, but if you do a cc config you have more space for your screw and still have a little box, provided you connect them with plates and bolts.
That is how this x gantry was designed by YUYONG. 2 c channels in a box shape bolted together. With the super thick c chanel, it's incredibly rigid.
Great job sir! 🍀
Great job sir!
Thank you kindly!
Sorry bro #3. They way they have done the cable screen termination is industry standard. The reason is that there is more metal contact when the male to female connection is made. Thus creating a lower resistance in the shield. They way you are suggesting would also have a negative benefit of "Isolating" the shield from the overall mass of earth material. They have done a super job in that box though. Not easy when you got power & control in close proximity.....
Well, that's great news. Research I've done watching a guy who breaks down everyone's mistakes as his main youtube channel focus, recommends what I mentioned in the video. It makes sense to me both ways, I see where you're coming from on the lower resistance. This is my first cnc build, so I don't have a lot of experience in the mitigation of EMF.. I'm experienced enough to take some criticism and am willing to learn ALWAYS. He recommended the shielded cable be grounded through a dedicated pin on the connector. For me, it seems cleaner that way. I should mention, I had specifically requested they ground everything and use double shielded cable. The control box doesn't come grounded or with double shielded cable normally. They only use cable with the foil. I am quite happy with what they have done with the control box and have zero issues with it so far.
There is one gripe! The hybrid servo driver alarms are all tied in parallel. Not sure why they would do it this way.
If any driver loses a step or triggers the alarm, the controller has no way of knowing which.
Sorry bro, you wrong again on the VFD sizing. Modern day VFD a much more efficient than before so the IGBT's don't create as many losses in the AC-DC-AC conversion process. What you may be experiencing is a need for more Torque in your applications. Then if so you probably need to be looking at your settings closer. Look at the BOOST function and current override per second settings. Just trying to help you along in your journey.....
No worries, and thanks for the knowledge update. Again, just outdated research lol.
Glad to hear they got that sorted and are no longer under rating VFD's
I did install a 7.5kw on my 3 hp 3ph lathe. Guess it could have been a 2.2kW. 😜
Better safe than sorry.
The Cnc runs excellent, no torque issues. Just something I read lol
You didn't put links to where all the CNC components came from. Could you please?
Sorry about that, I'm new to UA-cam lol. The p25 t slot bed is from Isel.com. The thicker 4080 C channel extrusions are from Makerstore USA.
www.isel-us.com/aluminum-extrusion-t-slot-fixture-plate/pt-25
makerstore.cc/product/us-lr-chv-s/
yea, i was also wondering about that, thanks for the update.
0.5850, 0.5875, you measured those two values between first and second hole on the linear rail. So its not the rail tapered, its the way you use a calipers...
I´ve been searching for the joining plates for the x-axis with no luck, you said you would order them on Amazon, did you ever find them?
I've seen your entire video and I'll follow your steps if I buy this machine.
However, people are encouraging me to build a PrintNC, for what I have no time. How do you think your finished machine will perform vs something like PrintNC? I'm focusing on aluminum too.
Print cnc night be a bit more rigid when it's all said and done but after my mods this is plenty adequate for aluminum. I'll have some cutting vids up and you can decide
Subscribing for the masso upgrade video
That bed is expensive. My bed is much larger than yours. I have the 1500x1500 frame. :/ I was hoping to find something under 500 and when I did a quote for what I need it was over 1500..
Yeah, unfortunately it wasn't cheap. Hopefully, it's worth it.
What's your opinion of this one vs competitors? (like ultimate bee)
Definitely the best of them
What kind of spindles are on the radar for future upgrade?
Maybe the pwn with atc kit
Are tou planning on adding some diagonal bracing to the table legs?
@@jimmer411 I added a base shelf and storage compartments.
Did you get the 220v version, Do you know what size breaker i need?
20:16 this measurements are basically pointless because this dimension is not precise by design.
surfaces which have precise geometry are rail base, side reference surface at the base (usually from one side only which are marked) and 4 bearing races.
all other surfaces are just cosmetically ground with no precision.
Good point! At the time I didn't know that. I have learned a lot since. Totally makes sense the precision surfaces would be the bottom and the recesses where the ball bearings ride.
How much benefit will i get out of the rigidity upgrades If my material is wood?
Better accuracy at high speeds with hardwoods.
Definitely more rigid than onefinity or shapeoko. Which controller did you get
Much more rigidity, I'm running the Masso G3 Touch
@@QuasarEMotoSports do you have the video of how you modified it to add the masso controller?
12:27 What control box did you pick? and you just asked them to wire it up with double shielded cable and with ground bleeds?
I got the rich auto version, so there were no extra holes.
And requested double shielded wiring grounded to my spec
@@QuasarEMotoSports Thanks
Question; how do you tram/nod the z axis for the motor on this build?
@cd7140 in one of my other videos I show exactly that. Have a look there are only a few
Where did you get that t slot bed i need that for my build
Isel.com
Did you verify that the profiles are actually flat. Most ain't
If you're referring to the tslot bed, I cut it in after assembling the router. I now run a 24x24 hdpe waste board on top, and it's fantastic.