Just watching some of your videos again, and I was wondering if you had the same thought that I did, why didn't woodmizer have the exhaust on opposite side from the operators side of the mill? I have the 15 wide as well too, and I think I would much rather the exhaust be on other side. (Just saying, what do you think?)
My norwood was on the opposite side and it was nice, you hardly ever got any dust on you. I do agree with you but unfortunately we do not design them so getting covered in dust looks like the only option or buying an lt70 with the remote stand but tjats largely out of price range for me. Thanks
hi there kind of wondering why band mill sawyers saw the first slab then turn the log 90 instead of 180 .most the time , with the round bottom and the now out of balance log its much harder to get a 90 cut to the bottom flat . nice log and good sawing . john
Not everyone does it that way,I do it tllike that because thats how i learned, plus i look at it as one less time the log is rotated. If your mill cuts flat and your back stops are square, getting the log to 90 isnt that hard if you take your time and use common sense. Just my opinion as everyone does it differently. Thabks Ted.
Most band saw sawyers turn 90 but they turn the wrong way because the mill are set up that way so you cut into the bark more time so if you do not have a debarker you will be buying more blades and they make more money. i am setting my mill to work from the opposite side of the mill so i can center the pif them after the first cut turn 90 and the leading edge of the blade will not be in the bark for the rest of the log. i hope my blades will last longer because i live on SS and need to make them last as long as i can.
@@georgeshotrodbarn2113 I agree with you but your blades will last if your not cutting threw dirty bark. We've cut almost 4000bf of pine with one blade that had the bark on it still. The logs were picked up by a forwarding trailer so they werent dragged threw the dirt.
@@tlroughsawn2184 My mill is just for me and a hobby so i have the time to remove the bark for the first cut then turn the log counterclockwise to help save me money but if i were young and doing it for a living i would do whatever is the fasts way and deal with the blades.
If you could change anything about this mill what would it be? Does the cutting head shaking around on the return effect anything that you have noticed. I ordered a mill just like this (LT15 W) and am waiting on it to come in is there anything you suggest I get ahead of time or do to get ready? I appreciate any info
The factory leveling feet suck thats why i built a subframe for mine. The power feed has its issues being electric. The head shaking hasnt been a problem its always been like that. Being a new mill your gonna have your little issues but take the time and work through them. It also depends if you take care of it or not. I run mine flat out everytime but i also dont beat the shit out of it. Preventative maintnence goes along way
great video! i just got my lt15w. Im brand new to sawing and man i'm slow compared to you. i average 1-2 hours on a log still. When you finish your cut and lift the head up, do you check your measurement where your cut was, then lift the saw head then bring back down to 1 " and 1/16th lower than the last cut? is there an easy way to keep track? How you cut seems so smooth and efficient. I cut, stop the blade, lift the board off, bring back the saw head, lower blade to next cut, start saw and repeat, will try this method tomorrow just worried ill lose track of where my cuts are and spend forever trying to line it up with boards still stacked on top! hope this makes sense
Thanks appriciate the good words. I put numbers on the scale wheel (check out my review video i show how i did it). It takes time you just have to find out what works for you as everyone saws differently.
I make a mental note of where the saw is on the scale (make first cut looking at the inches and example is 7 inches =4-1.5 cuts and so on)then on the next cut use the hand dial (1/2 turn per inch) to adjust for the next cut. So, if you are cutting 1-inch boards…at the end of the cut you could raise the saw 1-inch and after bringing the saw back for the next cut your dial will end up exactly where it was after raising the saw. That’s my method anyway if that makes sense. Thanks
Just watching some of your videos again, and I was wondering if you had the same thought that I did, why didn't woodmizer have the exhaust on opposite side from the operators side of the mill? I have the 15 wide as well too, and I think I would much rather the exhaust be on other side. (Just saying, what do you think?)
My norwood was on the opposite side and it was nice, you hardly ever got any dust on you. I do agree with you but unfortunately we do not design them so getting covered in dust looks like the only option or buying an lt70 with the remote stand but tjats largely out of price range for me. Thanks
hi there kind of wondering why band mill sawyers saw the first slab then turn the log 90 instead of 180 .most the time , with the round bottom and the now out of balance log its much harder to get a 90 cut to the bottom flat . nice log and good sawing . john
Not everyone does it that way,I do it tllike that because thats how i learned, plus i look at it as one less time the log is rotated. If your mill cuts flat and your back stops are square, getting the log to 90 isnt that hard if you take your time and use common sense. Just my opinion as everyone does it differently. Thabks Ted.
Most band saw sawyers turn 90 but they turn the wrong way because the mill are set up that way so you cut into the bark more time so if you do not have a debarker you will be buying more blades and they make more money. i am setting my mill to work from the opposite side of the mill so i can center the pif them after the first cut turn 90 and the leading edge of the blade will not be in the bark for the rest of the log. i hope my blades will last longer because i live on SS and need to make them last as long as i can.
@@georgeshotrodbarn2113 hi there i do think the blade would last a lot longer . thanks for stopping by john
@@georgeshotrodbarn2113 I agree with you but your blades will last if your not cutting threw dirty bark. We've cut almost 4000bf of pine with one blade that had the bark on it still. The logs were picked up by a forwarding trailer so they werent dragged threw the dirt.
@@tlroughsawn2184 My mill is just for me and a hobby so i have the time to remove the bark for the first cut then turn the log counterclockwise to help save me money but if i were young and doing it for a living i would do whatever is the fasts way and deal with the blades.
That looks like one nice red oak log. Did you leave them as beams or going to make boards out of them ? Nice job
Thanks i needed the two 6x8's for a personal project.
If you could change anything about this mill what would it be? Does the cutting head shaking around on the return effect anything that you have noticed. I ordered a mill just like this (LT15 W) and am waiting on it to come in is there anything you suggest I get ahead of time or do to get ready? I appreciate any info
The factory leveling feet suck thats why i built a subframe for mine. The power feed has its issues being electric. The head shaking hasnt been a problem its always been like that. Being a new mill your gonna have your little issues but take the time and work through them. It also depends if you take care of it or not. I run mine flat out everytime but i also dont beat the shit out of it. Preventative maintnence goes along way
great video! i just got my lt15w. Im brand new to sawing and man i'm slow compared to you. i average 1-2 hours on a log still. When you finish your cut and lift the head up, do you check your measurement where your cut was, then lift the saw head then bring back down to 1 " and 1/16th lower than the last cut? is there an easy way to keep track? How you cut seems so smooth and efficient. I cut, stop the blade, lift the board off, bring back the saw head, lower blade to next cut, start saw and repeat, will try this method tomorrow just worried ill lose track of where my cuts are and spend forever trying to line it up with boards still stacked on top! hope this makes sense
Thanks appriciate the good words. I put numbers on the scale wheel (check out my review video i show how i did it). It takes time you just have to find out what works for you as everyone saws differently.
I make a mental note of where the saw is on the scale (make first cut looking at the inches and example is 7 inches =4-1.5 cuts and so on)then on the next cut use the hand dial (1/2 turn per inch) to adjust for the next cut. So, if you are cutting 1-inch boards…at the end of the cut you could raise the saw 1-inch and after bringing the saw back for the next cut your dial will end up exactly where it was after raising the saw. That’s my method anyway if that makes sense. Thanks
Just curious, are you cutting dry? Looks really dusty
That log was really dry it had been down for a long time.
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