Trim Tilt Cap Removal, Using a Torch to Persuade Seized Caps Yamaha 4 Stroke
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Tyler Holland working on a Yamaha F300 trim unit, showing how applying heat with a torch can make removing stubborn, seized tilt trim end caps easier. Using the torch to GENTLY heat up the threads on the trim and tilt cylinders threads will usually make it alot easier to get these caps moving and will help prevent broken wrench pins when working with older units that are corroded and, in this case, have several coats of bottom paint sealing to caps onto the cylinders
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Air chisel takes them right off and it’s worth replacing the whole cap and seals
No it doesn’t mine are still seized up not moving at all maybe I will try heat first
Wish I knew I could do this last year. I broke multiple pins on the tool. It just wouldn't budge. So I bought the air hammer tool. One way or another its coming off this year.
Tyler, excellent content with the video and the follow up replies re. left hand drill bits and 6 mm helicoil kits. Thank you. Keep them coming.
Tyler, great video. Short, sweet, to the point. Thank you!
Qq on freeing up the tilt locking pin on an old ('91) 200hp 2stroke -- the one the tilt piston attaches to at the top. You think penetrating oil, picking out the rusted circlip, then heat on the bracket would be a good way to free up the pin so I can hammer it out ?
I have never understood why some of Yamaha Tilt Pins remain in perfect condition for decades and some of them seize badly. To answer your question:
I;d try an air hammer first if you have one
Removed the circlip however you can. Obviously it will be spring loaded and will launch directly at your eyes when it breaks free, safety glasses are a must
If the pin is seized into the midsection often the nylon bushings are to blame. The torch is a good idea, it will heat up the midsection as well as melt out the bushings and that alone may be enough to get the pin moving. If not, and I have had several that were fused into place, youll need to cut the pin into sections by using a metal cutting blade or cutting wheel and cutting at the junction between the edges of the tilt pin mounting ring and the midsection. Once the tilt pin is cut, you can removed the trim tilt assembly, or at least get the tilt rod out of the way. The small disc shaped sections of the mounting pin that are still stuck into the mid section usually hammer out pretty easily once every thing else is out of the way
Question about the check balls in the PTT oil pump shuttle valves and valve sub assembly, Yamaha engine F150TLRC, SHOWA PTT assembly 63P-43800-00-00, 3 ram SHOWA:
this stack up uses two each of two different part number check balls: 64E-43858-00-00 upper location, and 72X-43858-00-00 lower location. What is the difference between the two part numbered balls, and are they interchangeable? I failed to take note of their location during disassembly and have lost (2) to the Land of the Missing Tiny Parts! I have ordered new check balls (about $3 each so I have factory p/n on the parts bag but delivery is way out there due to back order. The dealers do not have this information re. dimensions. The (2) balls I have are 3.16 mm (1/8"). Thank you for your help on this one.
Tyler, this may help folks ID the check balls in the SHOWA 3 ram PTT used on my F150TLRC:
6E5-43858-00-00: 5/32" (1) required for valve seat (return oil to pump housing)
64E-43858-00-00 1/8" (2) required, for pump shuttle valves
72X-43858-00-00 3/16" (2) required, for pump main valves
64E-43858-00-00 1/8" (1) required for up relief valve (same ball used in pump shuttle valves
The ball part numbers are off of new Yamaha OEM parts that came in marked bags, measured with digital calipers.
The check balls used in the Tilt Piston Subassembly shock relief valve do not appear to have stand alone part numbers as that valve is part of the Tilt Piston Subassembly 63P-43810-09-00. I failed to measure these check balls. Next time!
size of the balls..
Thanks Tyler. Videos using flame are hard to find. They are very useful to the new DIY folks.
Thanks, yes, when properly used, these little torches can really help out with these jobs. MAP gas is my go to for this kind of work. Oxy-Acetylene has its place in the world but is usually not necessary for trim tilt work.
Always good to see your productions again. Thank you Tyler.
Thanks!
Thank you Tyler, good topic. If you have a chance a similar video on removing stubborn stainless steel flange bolts on the 3 ram Showa PTT would be very helpful, as well as the oil gallery plugs. I had a very tough time with both on my DIY F150TLRC PTT complete overhaul. Just about every bolt broke even after hours of coaxing with heat and penetrating oil. It was a nightmare. Nice overhaul stand!
All of these 6mm bolts are going to seize. Invest in a good set of hardened left hand drill bits and 6mm helicoil set. They will make short work of drilling, tapping and setting heli coils
Same goes for the larger bolts
Thank for the nice video, where did you get that trim unit holder?
We have the holders fabricated and we sell them through the website. This particular rack is excellent because the V6 PTT is a challenge to work with once it is removed from the transom bracket. It's also really good to be able to turn the PTT on it's side for drilling out damaged bolts.
outboardst.com/product/yamaha-tilt-trim-work-rack-ost-0352/