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Loved the guests and the insight they give to the specific periods! However, the subtitles were unfortunately not great. While they were obviously not the youtube automatically generated ones, quite a few "technical" word were wrongly transcribed. Government for garment, hurdle for kirtle, Shameesa Lauren for chemise à la reine etc... I am hard of hearing but not deaf, so I was able de go back and listen carefully to understand those words that seemed out of place, but other people might be able to. Also some garment names in movies taking place in non English speaking countries were subtitled as "speaking foreign language" which is unfortunate, as I would have loved to be able to do some research on these pieces. I do understand that this is even more work, so I do appreciate the desire to make these accessible.
Any chance of doing a second video where you examine the costumes from the 2022 Netflix show "Midnight at the Pera Palace"? It takes place in 1917-1919.
I think I would personally cut the category of "it was a design choice" into "it was a good design choice" and "it was an embarrassing design choice", because some of those choices are a hot mess.
i do think there's a distinct difference between "they were trying to do something artistic here, and they were successful" and "i'm sure they were trying to do SOMETHING here but i cannot for the life of me tell what that was."
@@DreamingWithDragons Exactly! There are well-researched shows with specific color palettes, moods or themes, and then there are choices made because the producers wanted more cleavage, or figured film costuming takes two weeks and an intern.
I am blown away and humbled that "Blót" was mentioned, a short movie shot in Austria, and I am proud to say that I was the Lead Costume Designer for that movie! The Costumes for the main characters (Freydis, Helgir and Ylva) and I have sewn myself. I do viking reenactment as well, and the director wanted a historical-fantasy aesthetic inspired by "Hellblade: Senua's journey" game (so it did not mean to be a completely historical movie), so I tried to pack in as much historical pieces as was possible for me to do, while still clinging to the aesthetic frame i had to work within. About adult Freydis: Her "gambeson" is made from wool and linen, the only leather in her travelling costume is the straps for the winigans, her pouch and belt, and some small decorational trims on the gambeson! It was very interesting to work on :)
I'm swedish and seeing the costumes from the show, I felt like I'd walked into a viking reenactment 😅 or the historical museum in Stockholm? Great work
I love that the expert in Korean historical costuming was actually dressed in the sort of period garments he was commenting on! Clearly a kindred spirit of Bernadette!
It’s not completely uncommon to wear Hanbok (Korea’s traditional dress) nowadays, especially holidays like Chuseok (known internationally as Korean Thanksgiving). There are also modern adaptations that you can buy and wear as well 😊
i didnt evwn know thouse exsisted simce most koreans research western historical pices rather then there own. fyi this iant to saythere arnt its just rare to see any speak up about it
I'm Ojibwe, not Lakota or Apache, but I do have some knowledge of regalia making and different Indigenous clothing practices. The costumes in "Prey" are by far the best representations of plains clothing ever put to screen. From the design, execution, and creation of each outfit, you can feel how each person on screen could have walked out of a plains camp in the 18th century. The women's style of dress are a t-shape, called a camp dress, and are common to see in modern pow wows on women's traditional dancers. Each one you see is so beautifully cut and decorated, and presents such an important view into how many Indigenous groups see that the neatness of your family''s dress and hair represents the love your family and community feel for you. The men's costumes are just as well done and I really appreciated seeing the neatness of each actor's hair which is so often never represented in Indigenous men. Naru (the main character) has a costume that slightly deviates from this, but it's presented as clearly a character decision. Tis peak Indigenous representation! The costumes in "The English" are also quite good at representing the way later plains peoples incorporated various styles of European dress and fabrics into their clothing practices. Eli wears an array of traditional cuts of clothing in wool and cotton, which was very common in this period. I loved that we can see so many ways he personalised his army coat. An interesting part of this time period is this plethora of photography of Indigenous peoples in various types of traditional and modernised clothing styles. There was this prevailing idea that Indigenous peoples would be assimilated into the general American population (as shown explicitly several times in the show itself) and any white photographers sought to capture what was thought was a vanishing people. Instead, we have an array of photographs of what Indigenous people were wearing at the time that have helped many modern Indigenous peoples to regain traditional modes of dress. Also Chaske Spencer's hair is fantastic, 10/10, I love him in this. Which brings me to "Walker" whatever reboot we're on. I have not watched this because everything about it looks not great, but from the screenshots I have looked at, the Indigenous costuming is oscillating between party city and Dances with Wolves. Justin Cortez's hair is like a weird feather cut mess, he wears clothing more suited to a Canadian winter, and it's just a horrible representation of Indigenous clothing styles from this period. It genuinely looks like the costume designers did a quick glance at old John Wayne movies, said "close enough!" and just ran with it. I don't want to be mean, but it was so generically and poorly done. TLDR: I'm hopeful that Prey is going to set a new bar for representing Indigenous peoples on-screen and I'm really hopeful we will get to see more like this in the future.
I was reading the comments just hoping someone would share some knowledge about the North American indigenous clothing in the shows that Bernadette mentioned, so thank you for this!
I cannot believe you talked about Blòt. I don’t know if you are aware, this was a student movie production in Austria. I was part of it, it was my second ever production. We shot it in 10 days without any money, just a bunch of people having a looooot of time during Covid and a lot of passion. This is very special to me, that k so so much for your kind words. The costume design for the main characters was done entirely by two wonderful women who really made magic happen.
"There are paintings of her in clothing, and they did not use them!" The literally lowest bar was not crossed. I loved the trivia about Chinese hobbyists improving the historical accuracy of costumes in tv and cinema. That is such an awesome thing, and I wish the same happened everywhere! Thank you all for your insights on these pieces of entertainment.
But the way a king or queen would dress for a portrait wasn't what they would wear on a normal day. They drag every expensive thing to wear all layered on top of each other for a portrait.
For Gilded Age, I know there's an interview where one of the actresses says that it was her first corset fitting, so she went in thinking she should aim for as small as she could go, while another, more experienced actress deliberately had a large lunch before her fitting, so she'd be comfortable.
I know that they at least got some of the corsets from Period Corsets and the actresses did get fitted/some level of customisation to suit them based on the info Period Corsets shared on their tumblr page. Some of the choices for foundation wear were very much dictated by the costume department so there were alterations made to existing patterns which would fit with some of the anachronisms. Plus there is a ball which was supposed to be fancy dress which was common to try to reproduce past fashions during (I mean we still do that now) and so that fits in too. I do cringe a bit at the assumption Bernadette has that the actresses who "tightlaced" (none looked tightlaced at all, maybe one has a 4" reduction max, but nothing super drastic that would fit the criteria of tightlacing) would have been uncomfortable since the shapes they're getting show that they were quite well fitted to their body. They weren't just put into tubes which put pressure everywhere. The reduction looks properly done at the waist only, making for comfortable garments. Like I can manage a 4" reduction when I put a corset on without any effort at all even if its been months since I last wore one. Something with only a 2" reduction closes immediately. And that's on someone like me with an incredibly short waist (only just an inch gap between ribs and pelvis if I'm being generous). So I've not got a lot of vertical length to work with.
When my Mum was a child in the 1940s some of the older woman still wore Victorian fashions to town. There was a woman in a department store in a rural town near me that maintained a behive hairdo into the 1990s. I think it is understandable to have some fashion from past decades on older cast.
when I was a kid in the 90s the older teachers in my catholic school all dressed 70s and the younger ones still looked 80s even when i left in 1999. My grandfathers clothes/accessories were all from the 70s/80s until he died in 2010.
Oh, absolutely! I often see ladies my mom's age (late 50's - early 60's) at work or out & about who still wear their hair like they did in the 1980's. My step-grandma still does her hair like she did as a teen/young adult in the 1950's.
@@bridgetthewench Then there are the younger generations who go "retro," who weren't even around for the styles they emulate. My generation went back to disco 70's and even some 60's glam during the 90's and now kids are going back to the 80's and 90's... I feel so old when I see Golden Girls style coming back ha ha ha! RIP Ladies!
@@elizabethnavarre7972 Very true! I absolutely cringed when I heard Gen Z was bringing mullets back! I'm not old enough to remember the 80's, but I do remember the 90's when lots of people still had mullets but everyone thought they were the most uncool haircut you could have. However, the mullets I've been seeing on Gen Z look way better than the mullets I remember from the 90's, they seem to be incorporating some 70's influence into them and making them much more stylish.
I always take this as a sign of extra accurate clothing thoughtfulness. It's always been this way and always will be. As with the servants clothing in Bridgerton.. hundreds of years too old for period.. that's accurate too (not the actual clothes but the level of wrongness is about right).
I feel that the Yearly Ranking of Costume Dramas by Historical Accuracy video has become the Super Bowl of Bernadette Banner videos in terms of anticipation, scope, importance, and splendor. And I say that as a total compliment!!! ❤
I wanted to talk briefly about the whole “older people wearing older styles thing” because I’ve been thinking a lot about it. So I’ve determined, at least in our modern times, that it’s not that old people wear outdated styles. Your grandmother doesn’t look like she stepped directly out of the 80s. Instead she’s using items she has, some of which are older, in combination with new items to create outfits. Often she uses a combination of styling advice she learned back when she was learning to dress herself and applying it to modern styles. My grandmother often says “don’t wear a pattern with horizontal lines, it makes you look fat” which was common advice in the 80s and is something I’ve noticed younger generations don’t seem to follow. It seems as if rather than people becoming stuck in time as they age, they instead develop a unique style specifically for their generation that progresses and evolves just like young peoples fashion does. In reality, different generations developed different fashions that reflect their values, needs, and wants. Often young peoples fashion, at least in the west, is seen as the height of fashion as it’s often the most “new and unique” looking compared to past styles. But this doesn’t mean that older generations aren’t stylistically progressing. They’re just culturally different and are born from different places.
I totally agree. My grandmother was a young woman in the 40s and although she didn't wear 40s outfits for the rest of her life, her approach to dressing and appearance definitely carried through from that era. For example, she had her hair curled and set at the salon once a week and her outfits for formal events was usually a smart jacket and skirt combination with a statement brooch, which was the typical formal look of the 40s (they apparently called skirt-suits "costumes" in those days). I see myself carrying through my style habits from the 90s as I get older... So, although period dramas often go over-the-top with this trope, it is definitely based in reality to some extent.
Have you seen the tiktok trend of "Dressing my mom like me" or however it's phrased? I find it fascinating to see the contemporary example, because the Mom doesn't seem like she's dated in her style, but when she dresses in her teenager's clothes, suddenly she seems 20 years younger! The exact fashion elements that make it are so subtle but it's clearly still very much a thing. You just wear what you're comfortable with (not quite the same as comfortable IN) - styles that are familiar, you know please you. After a while I guess you stop trying every new fashion... "Stuck in time" is over-stating it but most older generation won't follow the latest "Ridicuous trends" that their children eat up!
I do think that it was more pronounced farther back in history to literally wear old styles though, because (at least for average/working people), they didn't have nearly as many new clothes as we do now. So I can see that in the world of these period pieces, older people may literally still wear something that's dates over a decade or two for practicality's sake.
I mean... Thats literally what im in the process of doing and im 29. I Just cant be asked to participate in the y2k Revival, im still scared by the skinny Jeans from my teenage days haha
The Our Flag Means Death section had me absolutely rolling with laughter! You obliterated it with love and I don't think a single fan of the show, die-hard or casual could disagree with it's ranking. David Jenkins and the entire team looked at historical accuracy, then spat on it and put Oluwande in crocs, and if that's not "it was a choice", I don't know what is 😂💙
@@k80_ I don't know a single fan that I spend time with that actually calls it by its name, unless being dramatic af 😂 always "the pirate show" or "the gay pirates" 😂
I'm surprised she didn't mention the day robe that Stede loves almost as much as he loves Ed. The one that everyone in creation was going gaga for and trying to recreate for themselves. Not every day that a period like comedy starts a massive fashion trend, and certainly not one where the pulling it together takes/took real effort, above and beyond a simple cosplay. My opinion.
Just want to commend Bernadette for making the effort to collaborate with SO MANY other historical costume enthusiasts around the globe. I was so surprised to see a show from the Philippines featured. I haven't seen that show but I've only known about all the social media buzz around how good it is. Makes me happy that we do have local shows who make good historical.fantasy comedy/drama.
It’s a must see! Especially if you love historical clothing. They did it very accurately and one of things that made the show really good to watch. You can see how well researched the series was from small details in the house to the way they spoke.
When I saw Maria Clara at Ibarra in this list, I was like "I feel so represented" because you rarely see a Filipino historical drama get this much recognition. When I look at the Filipino women's clothes next to the Spanish clothes of the time, it really resembles French fashions of the time because Spain probably got fashion updates from France.
I expected the gilded age to be tis peak because a lot of research went into the costumes. The dresses were heavily inspired ( to the point of almost exactly copied) by actual designers from that period of time and those dresses still excist. There's a video about it on you tube.
I think a really interesting element of this is seeing how much different participants allow for leeway. Two guests can have near identical commentary in general terms, but one will give Tis Peak while the other will have Gets the Job Done, or even It's a Design Choice.
Really puts into perspective how much of a fallacy ranks are haha. Everything is so subjective and complicated. Really enjoyed this and I love how many perspectives she gathers together.
you can also tell how it differs based on period too! like how jimmy talks about his problems with the northman, but also acknowledges that it’s the best depiction of vikings in film to date, and thus gets a peak rating. makes for a more interesting video i think!
Another indication on how much they care about historical accuracy: the horses they chose! particularly whether they use a friesian horse or not, depending on the time period (they come from the netherlands, 13th century). Especially for the media meant to be set in iceland--iceland has only ever had ONE breed of horse. if it's anything other than an icelandic horse it is wrong. Horses are such a missed detail in historical visual media. PLUS, what they were WEARING riding horses as well!
your comment made me facepalm and go "of fricking course… HORSES!" because that's one of those things people never even think about if it's not already part of their life. It makes so much sense I feel stupid, lol. Thank you!
I mean, if they film a movie set in Iceland, in Iceland, than they should definitely be using Icelandic horses (or if they are able to source Icelandic horses that live elsewhere for a production filmed elsewhere) but if there is one thing I do know about Icelandic horses is that if you take that horse out of Iceland, legally you cannot bring it back into the country, or ANY OTHER HORSE for that matter. Iceland is VERY PARTICULAR about what kind of animals are allowed into the country because it's such a small and sparsely populated place, with rare species that only live there. So 1) No Icelandic person with an Icelandic horse is going to fly their horse out to be used on a production, and 2) finding enough rare and formerly Icelandic, now immigrant horses that look the part...sounds like a very special kind of logistical hell. So I get why a production filmed elsewhere would not do that.
Although it does greatly sadden me that Bernadette was unable to find historians for the movies that had Native Americans, I fully appreciate that she still acknowledged them and tried to find someone. Certainly happy she didn’t try to tackle that herself or completely dismiss them being there. Natives are far too often dismissed and forgotten about, so even though she couldn’t find a native historian, it’s nice to see some acknowledgment❤
Bernadette, as a fellow Indian, I am so SO glad you included Indian historic movies as well! That being said, I love your channel and appreciate your work and the effort you put in making historic clothing 💛
@@twinnish yeah the surroundings in the scenes are exquisite. in the show, they speak a flowery version of tagalog with some spanish lines mixed into the dialogue!
ok an insane amount of thanks to Bernadette for taking the time to subtitle this!!!! its so nice that she spends the time to do such well done subtitles with punctuation and everything for all her videos but this is such a long video and that must've taken agesss and its just amazing :) thank you!
Love proper subtitles, but I hope whoever has access to change the subtitles gives it another once over. The “(speaking in foreign language)” or “curdle” or “hurdle” for what I think must be “kirtle” are some creases that could use a spot of ironing out in otherwise Tis Peak subs.
Yes! They're not perfect, but they're very well done and infinitely better than many attempts I've seen. Most people don't even have subtitles at all. Thank you for considering your disabled viewers. We appreciate you 💗
So, first of all, THANK YOU. This video is a balm to my soul. Secondly; I work as a costume design consultant for low budget/no budget indie historical productions and like, I get that there's budget/vision considerations etc but it's still pretty brutal when I condense days of research on sumptuary laws, veiling practices and the squirrel fur trade in 15th century europe into a short, accessible powerpoint, and the finished product still looks like some weird amalgamation of 1692 american Puritan and 1870s Victorian. I have no broader point to make, I just wish more people cared about this stuff bc it's really cool.
Budget constraints, director/producer input "I don't care, I want this LOOK" or talent refusing to wear appropriate undergarments: I have friends who have encountered all of these while working in the tv/film/theatre industry with costuming. Yes, many costumers DO know better but often don't get to show what they've researched.
Regarding the "teddy bear" shaped helm at 28.11. It's a German, clap-visor pig faced bascinet. My husband is a medieval armour historian and commented someone really did their research for the helms.
I'm low key IN TEARS about The Last Kingdom performing so badly in terms of costumes 😭 I'm writing my history MA thesis about this show and it is very well done in terms of "accuracy" of the historical storyline. In some parts it is like seeing the Anglo Saxon Chronicles coming to life. How sad that they missed out on making the show even better by ditching the unnecessary dramatic leather armor or the straight up black muscle shirt that Uhtred is wearing in one of the scenes!
@@worrywirt one of the reasons I'm ONLY concentrating on the historical events and not on costumes or set design...if I got into that, I would exceed the permitted word count and probably fail 😅
I know this would be a lot more work in editing, but it would be really cool to see historically/archaeologically accurate examples of the outfits the characters _should_ have been wearing or, in the cases where the production did a good job, the real pieces that they were likely using as reference
I spotted that right away, but thought I was mistaken as surely Bernadette would have picked that up immediately! Was relieved to have her spot it as well.
It works especially well since the garment construction of Hanfu has always (for more than 2000 years!!! despite a lot of fashion changes) been done flat on a table/the ground without anything like darts etc.
Regarding the Against the Ice Greenland outfits? VERY accurate. if it wasn't for the Amelia Earhart wannabe it would be Tis Peak. Polar exploration of this period was very well photographed because they wanted to sell pictures after to raise funds and also document for science. Like, my dad the polar exploration geek can tell you which expedition it is from the gear because the filmmakers like to replicate specific shots. Any filmmaker who does makes this? Guaranteed polar geek or fell down the rabbit hole during research time.
Location and cultural background of polar explorers also makes a difference. You make a point about knowing the exploration based on the clothing. I am by no way a geek...but my Grandfather was on the St Roch in Canada's Arctic, and the stupidity, arrogance or both, of some of the explorers, and that continued into some of those working at his time in Canada's high Arctic
I love these not just because it's neat to see how visual media stacks up with history, but also because you bring in different people who know certain cultures or time periods. It's cool to hear from them.
Yes, VERY refreshing and entertaining to hear from folks who have such knowledge & passion for their culture ! I am really hoping Bernadette names some experts on USA Native Peoples research as I, for one, want to learn more ! Also, the Native People's of Canada, as the Cultures overlapped. Also, the Inuit Culture I believe is considered a seperate culture. I would love to also learn more about Mexican Native Folks before Spanish Conquest. So much to learn ! Thanks for all the work, Bernadette & all her guests !!!
The "teddy bear helmet" is in fact a Bascinet helmet, around the 1380s this type of helmet was redesigned and improved with a larger visor, often shaped as a beak or conical point to which was given the name of "hounskull". It was however very common throughout Europe to have visor purposefully made in the shape of an animal during the Renaissance period, be it a dog, cat, fox, bear and other undefined creatures.
I love that Bernadette included shows about all different regions of the world and actually made in different regions of the world and when she wasn’t knowledgeable enough on these areas/times, she got someone else in to explain it. It’s really interesting seeing more about the historical fashion in different countries and not just the UK and America. I would have loved to see even more countries but obviously Bernadette can’t do literally every historical movie and tv show from 2022 otherwise this video would have been insanely long.
My main comment in the Maria Clara at Ibarra series that she did not point out is the hemline of the skirts for most of the working class women especially to the "indios". It is highly unrealistic for women of laborous working stature to be wearing long trains in their everyday work environment. Plus, it would've made a very obvious class distinction between the natives(indios), the spanish, and the half bloods to further solidify the opression that the native filipinos were put through simply by using the appropriate hemline. Edit: kudos to Bernadette for attempting to include all historical dramas outside european and american dramas.
35:47 Ruohan Song’s paper demonstrations for the garments was such a nice touch! I appreciate it because we get to see how those pieces worked together.
Bingo at 43:46 with "shot in the dark to hide the sins" "men are more accurate than the women" "free space" "modern make-up" and "made from leather for no reason! Thank you to all the collaborators! This is such a fascinating deep dive into world clothes!!!
nice, i got bingo 32:28, "made of leather no reason," "what period is this supposed to be?" "Extras more accurate than leads," "deliberate anachronism" and "improper sleeve cutting"
I'm at 33:18, counted the sandman episode for "shot in the dark to hide their sins". Had the freebie in the middle, "extras more accurate than leads", "modern sleeve cutting", and "cross lacing before the 19th century"
I got bingo at 47:26 with “where are their hats/vails??” “Deliberate anachronism” “made from leather for no reason” “modern sleeve cutting” “Larpcore armor”.
The scene with Lestat you used for Interview With The Vampire, he is intentionally dressed outdated. He is supposed to look out of place next to everyone in the poker scene. That's why Louis teases him upon their first meeting saying his fashion is out of style. Louis helps update his wardrobe to the fashionable clothes of the time after they become friends. You only showed Grace's lace collars who's only a minor character and in a couple scenes. What about the rest, and the main characters and season 1 spans few decades. Carol Cutshall is an amazing costume designer and she shows all her historic research on her instagram. The suits especially in this show are excellent.
Yeah I was surprised we didn't get more praise for the outfits that were straight out of Leyendecker's fashion ads, for the changing fashion for Lestat and Louis through the 1910s and '20s. I'm not super well-educated in this area but I could at least tell that a lot of thought and effort was put into their costuming throughout the series.
@@mastelsa Yes! The pinstripe one Lestat wore to Louis' family dinner with the green tie, that was a straight replica from a Leyendecker illustration as well as the opera tuxedos. I also loved all the immaculate mix n' match coordination in Louis' suits and shirting with the various stripes, patterns and tweeds.
It's probably just that Bernadette is an expert in women's fashion and less knowledgeable about men's, she's said so pretty often. Plus with reviewing a whole bunch of shows it makes sense to watch the first (few) episode(s) and not the whole season, unfortunately 🤷
@@elinewww I understand it's a lot of shows and these videos take a lot of time and effort which is VERY commendable. It's just a little misleading because Lestat is supposed to look out of place in the scene she used to rate the costuming and that's talked about in the pilot within the first 15 minutes. I guess she wasn't able to watch the whole thing and just skipped around to look at costumes so she missed the dialogue.
I cackled when I saw OFMD on this list. Historical... accuracy? This is the show with the Hot Topic headband, the Mad Max pirate ship, and the chicken hat at the boat party. I'm impressed you found anything historical to note! (affectionate)
I just watched a show that is supposed to be historical. They did a close-up of the actor's shoes as they got out of a carriage. They were wearing super modern boots. Which what ever I could have moved past that.... but then I saw the plastic aglets on the shoelaces..... all I could think was it would have been so easy to just tuck those laces into the boots! Why!? Why couldn't they just do that!?
Last night I watched 20 minutes of the new BBC "Marie Antoinette" drama, and spent almost all of it complaining that nobody had powdered hair. Although that was the least of the programme's problems. So what I'm saying is, I feel your pain.
@Chevy’s Homestead Shadow And Bone. I love the book series and I'm good at separating the book from the show because it is an adaptation. So I really enjoy cinematic adaptations. I understand that this is a fantasy show but that's the only plastic that exists so it was just annoying. I could also be nit-picking because the director chopped up the series, reorganized the timeline, and blended the stories of two distant groups of characters that never meet in the books. Even if I pretend the show is separate from the book it's just not good in my opinion. It's very muddled and confusing. Which is sad because the source material could have made a fun show.
@@wifeofsauron1658 good to know! I watch a gold chunk of it but didn’t finish. I had the distinct impression that the group of ppl from outside breaking in were way cooler and more interesting than the main girl and got a little impatient with it. Maybe I should give the books a chance cuz the world seemed Super interesting. Hope my character descriptors make sense haha it was a while ago I watched it and I forget the details.
@@tiffany02020 yep, the 'heist' characters are from Six of Crows and the sequel, which honestly are so much better than the grisha trilogy that they feel like a different author. The trilogy is fun for more history about the world, but honestly the forced romantic subplot(s) take a lot away from an otherwise interesting premise. Cannot recommend the Six of Crows story over the other enough.
I am fairly expert on the habits of the Catholic religious communities, the Daughters of Charity, and the Sisters of Mercy. It is a sister of Mercy portrayed in “Wonder”. It is actually pretty good but the length of the coif (the collar around her neck) is long for the 1850s 1860s. The guimpe (white bib) is very good but the bandeau (across her forehead) is too high and stiff. The pleated wool gown is good, the sleeves are correct and the veil is, as it should be, made of “nun’s veiling”. Unfortunately, the veil is missing the short black under veil known as the domino and missing the stiffening at the front edge around the face. I can’t see the belt and rosary well enough to know if they are right.
@@bearo8 I am a Civil War reenactor and wanted to do something different at reenactments so decided to do either a Daughter of Charity or a Sister of Mercy. I researched both habits and decided on the Daughter of Charity because I was able to visit the archives at the Daughter’s mother house in Emmitsburg and photograph an original habit. I have been researching and speaking on the contributions of Catholic sisters as nurses during the Civil War for almost 15 years.
@@pointermom7641 wow. That sounds as if you are really invested in your job. It also sounds like an interesting topic of research full of anecdotes to be told.
As a polar historian I was hoping you would include Against the Ice. I completely agree with “It Gets the Job Done.” The clothing is incredibly accurate to what they actually wore on that expedition. If only they hadnt included Party City Amelia Earhart
I love seeing how passionate everyone is where they would only give 'this peak' to something that really hit the mark. They're not just passing it out every time they go around a corner 😂
I absolutely LOVED this! Loved all the specialists coming in to comment on the outfits you weren't qualified to speak on also! Hope you can get a Native American historian in the future, because this history does need to be preserved and shared.
I visited Shibden Hall where Anne Lister lived and the local museum had an exhibition of the costumes for Gentleman Jack. The detail is amaaaaaazing, down to nightgowns, hats and shoes. So so good and definitely deserves the Tis Peak ranking
"Banshees of Inisherin" is set in 1923 and worth a watch!!! It's got a very dark humor and very down to earth, everyday Irish costumes. I loved the movie for its simpleness, dialogues and actual their simple costumes. Also there is a donkey and several other animals to adore.
love this, you got me interested with your description of the general vibes and costumes and then sold me with the mention of there being animals to adore lol
Re: Finan in Last Kingdom, I think they were trying to show one of the famous Irish cloaks, exported all around Europe for centuries, and made out of wool that was particularly thick and warm. The problem is that the cloak gimmick was that they treated the outside of the wool with honey or other substances, to make it look a lot like the texture of a natural fleece, but also to help with waterproofing, etc. And the other problem is that apparently the Irish loved to dye these things in very bright colors, or even in multiple colors. So the "Mantle of St. Brigid" relic that's still out there in Bruges at the Sint-Salvator cathedral -- it's still pretty bright and fuzzy and appealing-looking, even after 1500 years or so.
but this category refers to 'armor' which clearly isn't doing anything to protect its wearer. so to bring this in context with normal, non-combat clothes "just exile me now"?
@@benzaiten933 I don't know if you've ever heard of her, but there is a youtuber, Jill Bearup, who does ( amongst other things ) armor reviews with " just stab me now " being the lowest. But I like the " just exile me now " -idea!
The Woman King making it really work on the African garments and then trashing it hard on the European clothing makes me think it was intentional. It's also possible they spent all the costuming budget on the African garments and so they really did go to Party City (or the Hollywood set closet) to get the European clothing cause they were out of money, and that wasn't the focus of the film.
I love the idea that they chose to care less about the accuracy of the European costuming … how many European films with scenes set in African countries do the same but in reverse? Many, maybe even most of them, I’d guess.
Quick correction: the portrait you put up as "Mary Queen of Scots" is actually Elizabeth's sister Mary I. I loved, loved, loved the costuming in Becoming Elizabeth. Actually, you don't see the coifs under the headdresses in a lot of portraiture of this era, including on the portrait of Mary I you included to show the standing collar style (also, see the portrait of Elizabeth in an orange dress from exactly these years, no coif in evidence). And OMG they did an amazing job with the fabrics and recreating actual garments those specific people wore (including that orange dress, be still my heart). All while making them look like clothes that very rich people would wear day-to-day. Also I love the layered neckline detail, with the embroidery peaking through from the shift underneath, and the sewn-on chains attached to the shoulders. Maybe I was so impressed because of how badly most shows do with mid-Tudor costume, but there were so many superlative details they included. Also the sets and characterization of the major figures (especially Elizabeth's sister Mary) are amazingly good. I've studied Tudor portraiture for decades, and I'd give Becoming Elizabeth a Chef's Kiss for sure.
Into a rabbit hole, I'm going to revise my personal rating on Becoming Elizabeth down a notch based on this amazing discussion of possible construction of French hoods. ua-cam.com/video/5Cv7A8KJJuo/v-deo.html Wow, I just can't unsee it now, and all those silly little head crescents just look, well, silly to me now. Mind blown! But it's not because the coifs aren't showing, it appears to be a very long-running misinterpretation of the contemporary portraiture. Wow. (and another resource about the, ahem, "French hood" .... which appears to be a modern misnomer for this headdress ua-cam.com/video/5YakiReB8cA/v-deo.html) Great stuff!
@@twobluestripes It's funny to see your comment right at this time, because I think just the other day he released a video about how one of the archeologists on the Time Team apparently unwittingly became the source of a mistaken idea circling around that King Arthur's Excalibur-in-the-stone legend could have been inspired by a real bronze age weapon :-D Not saying that he _doesn't_ like Time Team (he probably does!), but he did call them out for this one haha, and the time coincidence here is amusing ;-)
@@fionamorton3490 yeah, no one is perfect, and the TT work on a tight schedule. Easy to say something vague or speculative that can be misconstrued if someone's asking you while you're focusing on the dig and don't have your answers prepared. Still a great show that educates people about local history and inspires interest in it. Wish we had one like that in my country!
My one Welsh Viking critique is that I wish he would talk about what should have been done if he dismisses a particular style/look. He claimed the barbarian styles in Barbarian were borderline racist because they borrow from Indigenous North American and Māori styles, but I’d love to know what he think would have been more appropriate (even if not cinematic).
Our Flag means Death has the feel of a parody of the century and I completely vibe with their choices and modern easter eggs (I mean they basically invented a pyramid scheme and scamming the rich in one episode)
Again I thank you for not making this list purely about European/North American period dramas, and for consulting with people who are knowledgeable about those other cultures featured!! It also helps us find programs that are maybe not as well known in english speaking countries
Wow this flew by. Only after watching did I notice this was the length of a feature film. Fantastic work - love to see specialists do what they’re good at!
I love that each year you getting more and more cultures involved. I hope you can get someone of Native decedent to speak on Native clothing on board too, allthough I do recognise that might be hard due to their being so many different Native tribes and cultures, and the fact that their is sadly still so much discrimination going on against Native people.
So many historical films and TV series that I had no idea about! Adding a lot of them to my watch list, even if the costuming is not historically accurate.
I almost am embarrassed that I have not watched this video until now. I really appreciate your expanding the coverage of shows year by year to include other countries and cultures. So well done!
I know this isn't exactly about historical accuracy, but I would absolutely love to see more analyses of the plausibility of fashion within fantasy works, on the one hand because a lot of fantasy draws (or at least tries to draw) on real historical eras, but also because fantasy societies and characters have to go through the same kinds of logical considerations, like, what do I need to do in my clothes every day, what materials are readily available, what are the weather conditions, how is status and rank expressed etc. and that way I think we can learn a lot about how societies function in general even from the analysis of fantastical societies that don't actually exist. (and of course it's just super entertaining). I just watched the Shadow and Bone series and many of the costumes in there are definitely based on real world time periods and I would just really like to understand more about it and about whether the design choices within that show make sense.
yessss i'd love to see an analysis of worldbuilding and internal consistency in the costuming in shadow and bone! season one already had so many neat details to spot, and with season 2 coming up there's soon to be plenty of material to look at.
I saw an ad on Facebook talking about Corsage. The main actress was talking about how the corset restricted her breathing and I then rolled my eyes so hard they fell out of my head and into the next room.
Sometimes--as we can see--the pain is well justified; especially as historic Empress Elisabeth was big into tightlacing, which I don't expect would be comfy for most actresses today. But that's all the more reason to promote understanding of how corsets should be built, fit and worn!
Actresses are made to wear ill-fitting mass-produce corsets which are a lot less comfortable (ask me how I know) and can be downright painful (as well as restrictive), especially if you wear them all day. They're a far cry from historical custom-made and well broken-in corsets.
To clarify, the comments had to do with how when she took off the corset, she realized it was restricting her diaphragm, and she was extrapolating into how that kind of restriction affected women and I, quite honestly, tuned out at that point.
I'm so happy to see The Northman so high on accuracy. Eggers is an extremely talented director and passionate about realistic historic pieces. Such a great film and more people should watch it.
Bingo!!!! 24:20 thanks to “what period is this supposed to be again?”, “made from leather for no reason”, “extras more accurate than leads”, “Larpcore armor”, and “men are more accurate than the women”. Idk whether to be proud of getting it or disappointed in all these movies/shows…..
Shucks, I didn't hit Bingo until 1:02:14! "men in modern suits", "wrong century/decade", deliberate anachronism", "shot in the dark to hide the sins", "where are their hats/veils??" 😂
Sadly only got my final one at 1:13:20, they were doing so great at ticking off the terrible for me early on. Had: - muted colour palette - wrong century/decade - made from leather for no reason - where are their hats/veils But at least it seems fitting that I got bingo on "corsets without chemises"😂
It would have been worth mentioning that the knights of Richard III's bodyguard in The Lost King were absolutely spot on, their armour is very good because they are re-enactors and historical interpreters and are wearing their own stuff. Richard's armour was made for him by an armourer and it's spot on. And fun fact, his red pointy shoes were made by a maker of historical shoes who usually supplies re-enactors of several periods. Zac could have said something about the armour btw. I really enjoy watching all the specialists mostly ripping apart the shows of different eras and cultures, very instructive.
I thought about your costume rankings while watching The Wonder and hoped it would score high - yes!! In noting that there weren't many costumes - I actually thought this was another great historical detail. Florence Pugh's character wears the same clothes day in day out over the main part of the story (a span of two weeks, iirc) until something actually forces her to change. Other characters appear in the same clothes over and over too.
The thing I loved best about The Wonder is that they had a proper number of outfits. Florence Pugh's character has two dresses until Dublin. You see them both. And when she burns her good dress badly, you see the other one only. It's perfection.
ALMOST TWO HOURS? it must be my birthday lmao Also I appreciate how, in the past, you seemed pretty tired of everyone clamouring for you to review every historical film under the sun but now you’ve basically amassed an Avenger-level crossover to bring to light the dress of so many different cultures! Thank you and everyone who contributed to this monster of a video. It’s the perfect end-of-year gift ♡
I'm Latvian. I suspected that we might have quite alike dressing style with Estonians but since our languages are very different I was surprised that we call these shoes "pastalas" so closely alike as well.
I feel like “it was a design choice” needs to be a separate chart that is separated into “amazing choice”, “ok choice”, “what year is this”, “bad choice”, and “dark”. That way when this aren’t exactly good, but not really bad they won’t be overhanging the “it was a choice” category.
I can absolutely agree about The Norseman! I watched it after a full day of volunteering with my uni's early medieval education project (we do KS2 supplementary trips) and Several of the props - including some of the swords - are the same replicas we have made by the same smith. It was a bit of a mindbend to realise I was walking around wearing it earlier that day
I find it interesting that Enola's hair, Bernadette's biggest seemingly biggest concern in the film, is also one thing multiple characters (even her mum who is herself subversive in her dress) point out as being off in the show or straight-up say she needs a haircut.
I am so glad that Maria Clara at Ibarra was featured in your channel! It was the best Philippine TV series to date and I must say that they really dug deep in fashion history and they used costumes symbolically to tell more about the characters just like Klay (the main character) who used knickers as her undergarment while it wasn’t a practice in 1880s, to indicate that he’s a modern woman. Ibarra, always use royal-colored cravat to show that he is an elite, and Fidel (Klay’s love interest) always had red cravat when him and Klay have romantic scenes.
I am currently managing costumes for a stage production where my time period is "vaguely medieval, plus french renaissance for the rich people, and one dance is anime." Which is fine and fun - all we're missing are the turkey legs. BUT this was such a soothing video to watch! Now back to sewing my medieval flamenco dresses...
i love all the historians and consultants in this! and the paper doll for demonstration was so smart and helpful! I also like the variety in media, the assumption that western media isn’t historically accurate but it’s evident it’s across the board lol It also makes sense that most things lean into Its a Design Choice since many productions do just want the vibe rather than accuracy bc they assume majority of people watching won’t know the difference; an evocation of time and place rather than an accurate representation, if you will
it was lovely to see Maria Clara at Ibarra mentioned here! 🥺😊 also Ibarra’s clothing is European seeing as he’s just come back from studying in Europe for like 7 years, anyway the show’s historical costuming really just deserves its own video
God, I love Bernadette and her channel, it really inspires me and informs me. Fashion is so overlooked in film sometimes which is a shame because it can convey so much of the societal morays, attitudes, and class structures, it's an important part of history.
i've worked on films and television period pieces and i can't tell you the number of times i was told "just the essence of", or "no one will really know the details" from producers and directors. gahhhh.
having seen the pale blue eye. it was lovely! i know more about 1840 -1860 dress, but they got the hair on point, and the costuming was delightful, and felt right, if not being perfect. there's ne particular dress/coat at one point that is blue velvet with fur trim that was sooooo sumptuous. they also got an amazing actor to portray poe, he really looked like he does in the photos we have of him
From my understanding, Prey did hire a lot of Native crew members (behind the scenes, not just the actors), and the Indigenous folks I have seen talking about it have mostly offered praise. I hope somewhere out there, there's an Indigenous historical fashion expert who becomes a content creator. I am so very sick of Party City-looking Native "rep" in Hollywood. The internet exists now...there is no excuse!!! I also loved the OFMD segment (I've been looking forward to your take on it all year). Definitely surprised you didn't mention Oluwande's crocs XD But yes it was all very clearly Design Choice, and I loved every bit of it LOL. Oh, and I just adore Yang Cheon-Shik! I will definitely watch Pachinko due to his glowing endorsement :):)
Another issue with "Our Flag Means Death", the royal navy uniforms. The officers are a good 50-80 years too early and the crew are almost a century too early. Then again in ep1 Stede's sailors complain about sewing despite needing to know how to sew to survive, especially a crew that small lol. Super fun show despite some of the weird choices!
I cant comment on the navy, but the sewing thing was a statement about gender roles and what is seen as acceptable for men to do. That's why they went to Roach sewing his arm up, because thats Tough and Masculine TM.
The thing with Black Pete complaining that sewing is “women’s work” is more to show that Pete’s kind of a jerk and to emphasize that they’re a terrible crew. When he asks if they think Blackbeard’s crew sews, OF COURSE THEY DO! If a sail gets damaged in a storm you can’t always make it to port to get it repaired and you’re gonna have to get that done onboard.
They still teach you how to sew in the Navy these days. We got a sewing kit as part of our kits in Bootcamp, and had a full lesson on how to sew buttons back on and fix seams.
basically everything in OFMD is somewhat or incredibly out of time, and it's always a delightful choice. (like Mary's costuming is super anachronistic but super thematic
I love these annual reviews of historical costuming, though the ranking systems seem a bit arbitrary. I also like to use the CC (because ADHD) and found it amusing that your transcriber (I think you had said you hired that out) used "curdles" instead of "kirtles" a number of times.
I laughed at that a lot too! As a side note it would be nice to have the actual names of non-english garments and people written out instead of "[foreign language]".
@@linr8260 the captions do get sent out, but then they get manually edited which, for a video the length of a Disney animated movie, takes some time. They're fixed now though!
They're not completely fixed. I was laughing at some parts just now. With so many different accents and technical terms, it's understandable. I agree that it would be more respectful to replace "[foreign language]" with the term that was actually said.
An interesting detail regarding the costumes worn by royal ladies in Ponniyin Selvan: the costume designer revealed in the making-of feature that the actors wore underbust corsets underneath the saris to make pinning down the pleates easier. While this was a highly inaccurate sartorial choice, none of the actresses complained about tightlacing and the draping looks stunning on the shaped foundation garment, which shows how efficient and comfortable a corset if made well.
I was really impressed with Emily, the picture of her chosen for the movie poster/cover looks very modern with her hair very straight and worn down but it looks like the film actually does a really good job of recreating the historical aesthetic.
Yeah I haven't seen the movie but as soon as I've seen the posterr here I went: noooo, modern hair and makeup, this is gonna be sooo bad! And was shocked to see that instead the actual movie is quite the opposite.
I actually gave it a pass BECAUSE of the movie poster… I wonder which type of viewers did they aim for with this, if not us people most susceptible to like the contents of the movie ??
I watched The Lost King, the main character is dreaming of Richard III after seeing him in a play. So she's dreaming of the play's interpretation of what he looks like. It's an ameutur play so they probably can't afford really expensive clothes or to be historically accurate, that's why his clothes seem cheap and don't seem to mirror Richard III portraits. Tho as we find out in the film, Richard III portraits were all vandalised by the tudors. They extended a lot of his features to make him seem 'evil' , so that's probably why he didn't look like his portraits. Especially bc the main character believes Richard III was innocent of his crimes and was a good king- just that the tudors usurped him and then made up rumors abt him to validate the tudors legitimisy to the throne. Shakespeare furthered these rumours, and wrote a damning play abt him 190 years after he died. In reality Richard III was actually a well liked king, was loyal to his brother, a good fighter despite have scoliosis, was loyal to his wife (very rare in those days) and put good laws in places that are still used today. He vastly improved the justice system and translated books from latin so that the poor could understand them.
This is basically the only End of Year thing I watch anymore. Fun, funny when the clothes are bad, I get introduced to media i would never have heard of otherwise and it's highly educational.
I expected the Woman King to be in Tis Peak, m'Lord, based on the review, unless just having to split it knocked it down. Fun to hear the expert on this one.
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In other news, how did we do? Did we miss any? Which were your favorites this year?
I love you, Bernadette ❤️
The bingo card link isn't clickable in the description. I had to type it in manually. Dunno if you can fix that or not
Loved the guests and the insight they give to the specific periods! However, the subtitles were unfortunately not great. While they were obviously not the youtube automatically generated ones, quite a few "technical" word were wrongly transcribed. Government for garment, hurdle for kirtle, Shameesa Lauren for chemise à la reine etc... I am hard of hearing but not deaf, so I was able de go back and listen carefully to understand those words that seemed out of place, but other people might be able to. Also some garment names in movies taking place in non English speaking countries were subtitled as "speaking foreign language" which is unfortunate, as I would have loved to be able to do some research on these pieces. I do understand that this is even more work, so I do appreciate the desire to make these accessible.
Any chance of doing a second video where you examine the costumes from the 2022 Netflix show "Midnight at the Pera Palace"? It takes place in 1917-1919.
You should have included RRR!
I think I would personally cut the category of "it was a design choice" into "it was a good design choice" and "it was an embarrassing design choice", because some of those choices are a hot mess.
This is a good suggestion!
Or artistic design choice and honey badger design choice?
"It was a good design choice" and "it certainly was _a choice_ "
i do think there's a distinct difference between "they were trying to do something artistic here, and they were successful" and "i'm sure they were trying to do SOMETHING here but i cannot for the life of me tell what that was."
@@DreamingWithDragons Exactly! There are well-researched shows with specific color palettes, moods or themes, and then there are choices made because the producers wanted more cleavage, or figured film costuming takes two weeks and an intern.
I am blown away and humbled that "Blót" was mentioned, a short movie shot in Austria, and I am proud to say that I was the Lead Costume Designer for that movie!
The Costumes for the main characters (Freydis, Helgir and Ylva) and I have sewn myself. I do viking reenactment as well, and the director wanted a historical-fantasy aesthetic inspired by "Hellblade: Senua's journey" game (so it did not mean to be a completely historical movie), so I tried to pack in as much historical pieces as was possible for me to do, while still clinging to the aesthetic frame i had to work within. About adult Freydis: Her "gambeson" is made from wool and linen, the only leather in her travelling costume is the straps for the winigans, her pouch and belt, and some small decorational trims on the gambeson!
It was very interesting to work on :)
You did a wonderful job! Very complimentary to the characters! 👏🏼👏🏼 very very proud of you
You're amazing! Way to go!
I'm swedish and seeing the costumes from the show, I felt like I'd walked into a viking reenactment 😅 or the historical museum in Stockholm? Great work
Omg you really are the costume designer??? Now I'm going to watch the movie just so I can admire your work
You did a great job, and it's pretty dope for me to realize that this show's aesthetic was inspired by one of my favorite video games.
I love that the expert in Korean historical costuming was actually dressed in the sort of period garments he was commenting on! Clearly a kindred spirit of Bernadette!
From checking out a few of his videos at some point I believe he generally dresses in those period garments in his everyday life.
@@lamonshee that's actually super cool, especially with how beautiful those clothes are
@@lamonshee what an absolute badass!
It’s not completely uncommon to wear Hanbok (Korea’s traditional dress) nowadays, especially holidays like Chuseok (known internationally as Korean Thanksgiving). There are also modern adaptations that you can buy and wear as well 😊
i didnt evwn know thouse exsisted simce most koreans research western historical pices rather then there own. fyi this iant to saythere arnt its just rare to see any speak up about it
I'm Ojibwe, not Lakota or Apache, but I do have some knowledge of regalia making and different Indigenous clothing practices. The costumes in "Prey" are by far the best representations of plains clothing ever put to screen. From the design, execution, and creation of each outfit, you can feel how each person on screen could have walked out of a plains camp in the 18th century.
The women's style of dress are a t-shape, called a camp dress, and are common to see in modern pow wows on women's traditional dancers. Each one you see is so beautifully cut and decorated, and presents such an important view into how many Indigenous groups see that the neatness of your family''s dress and hair represents the love your family and community feel for you. The men's costumes are just as well done and I really appreciated seeing the neatness of each actor's hair which is so often never represented in Indigenous men. Naru (the main character) has a costume that slightly deviates from this, but it's presented as clearly a character decision. Tis peak Indigenous representation!
The costumes in "The English" are also quite good at representing the way later plains peoples incorporated various styles of European dress and fabrics into their clothing practices. Eli wears an array of traditional cuts of clothing in wool and cotton, which was very common in this period. I loved that we can see so many ways he personalised his army coat. An interesting part of this time period is this plethora of photography of Indigenous peoples in various types of traditional and modernised clothing styles. There was this prevailing idea that Indigenous peoples would be assimilated into the general American population (as shown explicitly several times in the show itself) and any white photographers sought to capture what was thought was a vanishing people. Instead, we have an array of photographs of what Indigenous people were wearing at the time that have helped many modern Indigenous peoples to regain traditional modes of dress. Also Chaske Spencer's hair is fantastic, 10/10, I love him in this.
Which brings me to "Walker" whatever reboot we're on. I have not watched this because everything about it looks not great, but from the screenshots I have looked at, the Indigenous costuming is oscillating between party city and Dances with Wolves. Justin Cortez's hair is like a weird feather cut mess, he wears clothing more suited to a Canadian winter, and it's just a horrible representation of Indigenous clothing styles from this period. It genuinely looks like the costume designers did a quick glance at old John Wayne movies, said "close enough!" and just ran with it. I don't want to be mean, but it was so generically and poorly done.
TLDR: I'm hopeful that Prey is going to set a new bar for representing Indigenous peoples on-screen and I'm really hopeful we will get to see more like this in the future.
Thanks for your analysis! I’m going to definitely check out Prey!
How generous of you to share your input in such depth.
I really hope that @bernadettebanner sees your comment and you can connect.
I was reading the comments just hoping someone would share some knowledge about the North American indigenous clothing in the shows that Bernadette mentioned, so thank you for this!
Thank you!
Thank you for this! I hope our dear lady will reach out to you, maybe you can help on future production like this. ☺️
Nami Sparrow holding a grudge about the lack of bling is a mood. A big, giant, fabulous mood!
She has a point. I didn't realize the guys in the ripped t-shirts were princes.
The Tamil kings and princes were dripping in that sweet sapphires and spices trade money. They should be covered in gold.
I cannot believe you talked about Blòt. I don’t know if you are aware, this was a student movie production in Austria. I was part of it, it was my second ever production. We shot it in 10 days without any money, just a bunch of people having a looooot of time during Covid and a lot of passion.
This is very special to me, that k so so much for your kind words. The costume design for the main characters was done entirely by two wonderful women who really made magic happen.
"There are paintings of her in clothing, and they did not use them!" The literally lowest bar was not crossed. I loved the trivia about Chinese hobbyists improving the historical accuracy of costumes in tv and cinema. That is such an awesome thing, and I wish the same happened everywhere! Thank you all for your insights on these pieces of entertainment.
But the way a king or queen would dress for a portrait wasn't what they would wear on a normal day. They drag every expensive thing to wear all layered on top of each other for a portrait.
For Gilded Age, I know there's an interview where one of the actresses says that it was her first corset fitting, so she went in thinking she should aim for as small as she could go, while another, more experienced actress deliberately had a large lunch before her fitting, so she'd be comfortable.
wasnt that meryl streep's daughter?
One of the actresses (Mrs. Russel) was also pregnant, I think up through her third trip so they had some challenging of hiding her pregnancy.
This is unrelated but seeing a Baten Kaitos pfp made me very happy!
I know that they at least got some of the corsets from Period Corsets and the actresses did get fitted/some level of customisation to suit them based on the info Period Corsets shared on their tumblr page. Some of the choices for foundation wear were very much dictated by the costume department so there were alterations made to existing patterns which would fit with some of the anachronisms. Plus there is a ball which was supposed to be fancy dress which was common to try to reproduce past fashions during (I mean we still do that now) and so that fits in too.
I do cringe a bit at the assumption Bernadette has that the actresses who "tightlaced" (none looked tightlaced at all, maybe one has a 4" reduction max, but nothing super drastic that would fit the criteria of tightlacing) would have been uncomfortable since the shapes they're getting show that they were quite well fitted to their body. They weren't just put into tubes which put pressure everywhere. The reduction looks properly done at the waist only, making for comfortable garments. Like I can manage a 4" reduction when I put a corset on without any effort at all even if its been months since I last wore one. Something with only a 2" reduction closes immediately. And that's on someone like me with an incredibly short waist (only just an inch gap between ribs and pelvis if I'm being generous). So I've not got a lot of vertical length to work with.
@@AlexaFaie I've got barely two slim finger widths between my ribs and hip bones. tight lacing for me is a 1" reduction and it hurts alot if done.
When my Mum was a child in the 1940s some of the older woman still wore Victorian fashions to town. There was a woman in a department store in a rural town near me that maintained a behive hairdo into the 1990s. I think it is understandable to have some fashion from past decades on older cast.
when I was a kid in the 90s the older teachers in my catholic school all dressed 70s and the younger ones still looked 80s even when i left in 1999. My grandfathers clothes/accessories were all from the 70s/80s until he died in 2010.
Oh, absolutely! I often see ladies my mom's age (late 50's - early 60's) at work or out & about who still wear their hair like they did in the 1980's. My step-grandma still does her hair like she did as a teen/young adult in the 1950's.
@@bridgetthewench Then there are the younger generations who go "retro," who weren't even around for the styles they emulate. My generation went back to disco 70's and even some 60's glam during the 90's and now kids are going back to the 80's and 90's... I feel so old when I see Golden Girls style coming back ha ha ha! RIP Ladies!
@@elizabethnavarre7972 Very true! I absolutely cringed when I heard Gen Z was bringing mullets back! I'm not old enough to remember the 80's, but I do remember the 90's when lots of people still had mullets but everyone thought they were the most uncool haircut you could have. However, the mullets I've been seeing on Gen Z look way better than the mullets I remember from the 90's, they seem to be incorporating some 70's influence into them and making them much more stylish.
I always take this as a sign of extra accurate clothing thoughtfulness. It's always been this way and always will be. As with the servants clothing in Bridgerton.. hundreds of years too old for period.. that's accurate too (not the actual clothes but the level of wrongness is about right).
I feel that the Yearly Ranking of Costume Dramas by Historical Accuracy video has become the Super Bowl of Bernadette Banner videos in terms of anticipation, scope, importance, and splendor.
And I say that as a total compliment!!! ❤
Accurate!
I wanted to talk briefly about the whole “older people wearing older styles thing” because I’ve been thinking a lot about it. So I’ve determined, at least in our modern times, that it’s not that old people wear outdated styles. Your grandmother doesn’t look like she stepped directly out of the 80s. Instead she’s using items she has, some of which are older, in combination with new items to create outfits. Often she uses a combination of styling advice she learned back when she was learning to dress herself and applying it to modern styles. My grandmother often says “don’t wear a pattern with horizontal lines, it makes you look fat” which was common advice in the 80s and is something I’ve noticed younger generations don’t seem to follow. It seems as if rather than people becoming stuck in time as they age, they instead develop a unique style specifically for their generation that progresses and evolves just like young peoples fashion does. In reality, different generations developed different fashions that reflect their values, needs, and wants. Often young peoples fashion, at least in the west, is seen as the height of fashion as it’s often the most “new and unique” looking compared to past styles. But this doesn’t mean that older generations aren’t stylistically progressing. They’re just culturally different and are born from different places.
I totally agree. My grandmother was a young woman in the 40s and although she didn't wear 40s outfits for the rest of her life, her approach to dressing and appearance definitely carried through from that era. For example, she had her hair curled and set at the salon once a week and her outfits for formal events was usually a smart jacket and skirt combination with a statement brooch, which was the typical formal look of the 40s (they apparently called skirt-suits "costumes" in those days). I see myself carrying through my style habits from the 90s as I get older... So, although period dramas often go over-the-top with this trope, it is definitely based in reality to some extent.
for example i stopped dressing emo decades ago but my clothes are still mostly black LMAO
Have you seen the tiktok trend of "Dressing my mom like me" or however it's phrased? I find it fascinating to see the contemporary example, because the Mom doesn't seem like she's dated in her style, but when she dresses in her teenager's clothes, suddenly she seems 20 years younger! The exact fashion elements that make it are so subtle but it's clearly still very much a thing.
You just wear what you're comfortable with (not quite the same as comfortable IN) - styles that are familiar, you know please you. After a while I guess you stop trying every new fashion... "Stuck in time" is over-stating it but most older generation won't follow the latest "Ridicuous trends" that their children eat up!
I do think that it was more pronounced farther back in history to literally wear old styles though, because (at least for average/working people), they didn't have nearly as many new clothes as we do now. So I can see that in the world of these period pieces, older people may literally still wear something that's dates over a decade or two for practicality's sake.
I mean... Thats literally what im in the process of doing and im 29. I Just cant be asked to participate in the y2k Revival, im still scared by the skinny Jeans from my teenage days haha
The Our Flag Means Death section had me absolutely rolling with laughter! You obliterated it with love and I don't think a single fan of the show, die-hard or casual could disagree with it's ranking. David Jenkins and the entire team looked at historical accuracy, then spat on it and put Oluwande in crocs, and if that's not "it was a choice", I don't know what is 😂💙
In the words of Taika himself: “this isn’t a pirate show, this is a love story about two dudes who just happen to be on a boat”
I love this show and all of the characters!
Funny because my friends and i all call it literally “pirate show”
@@k80_ I don't know a single fan that I spend time with that actually calls it by its name, unless being dramatic af 😂 always "the pirate show" or "the gay pirates" 😂
I'm surprised she didn't mention the day robe that Stede loves almost as much as he loves Ed. The one that everyone in creation was going gaga for and trying to recreate for themselves.
Not every day that a period like comedy starts a massive fashion trend, and certainly not one where the pulling it together takes/took real effort, above and beyond a simple cosplay.
My opinion.
+
Just want to commend Bernadette for making the effort to collaborate with SO MANY other historical costume enthusiasts around the globe. I was so surprised to see a show from the Philippines featured. I haven't seen that show but I've only known about all the social media buzz around how good it is. Makes me happy that we do have local shows who make good historical.fantasy comedy/drama.
It’s a must see! Especially if you love historical clothing. They did it very accurately and one of things that made the show really good to watch. You can see how well researched the series was from small details in the house to the way they spoke.
When I saw Maria Clara at Ibarra in this list, I was like "I feel so represented" because you rarely see a Filipino historical drama get this much recognition. When I look at the Filipino women's clothes next to the Spanish clothes of the time, it really resembles French fashions of the time because Spain probably got fashion updates from France.
In Gilded Age, Agnes is told by her seamstress that her dress style is being abandoned by most ladies and she replies she's not most ladies
I expected the gilded age to be tis peak because a lot of research went into the costumes. The dresses were heavily inspired ( to the point of almost exactly copied) by actual designers from that period of time and those dresses still excist. There's a video about it on you tube.
@@mathildewijn3113 I think Mrs. Russell's wardrobe is more on the Design Choice category
You know, during this, I wondered if the script writers considered putting fashion comments in the mouths of their characters. I like that some did.
I remember that scene as well. Agnes’s dress style was very deliberately a few years behind.
And?
I think a really interesting element of this is seeing how much different participants allow for leeway. Two guests can have near identical commentary in general terms, but one will give Tis Peak while the other will have Gets the Job Done, or even It's a Design Choice.
I was thinking the same thing as I was watching.
Exactly my thought!
Really puts into perspective how much of a fallacy ranks are haha. Everything is so subjective and complicated. Really enjoyed this and I love how many perspectives she gathers together.
True, but the best part is the commentary, which I very much enjoyed in every case!
you can also tell how it differs based on period too! like how jimmy talks about his problems with the northman, but also acknowledges that it’s the best depiction of vikings in film to date, and thus gets a peak rating. makes for a more interesting video i think!
Ruohan Song's explanation with the paper patterns was endering, charming and educational. Extra mile reached.
Yes- my favorite! paper doll pattern pieces!!
Another indication on how much they care about historical accuracy: the horses they chose! particularly whether they use a friesian horse or not, depending on the time period (they come from the netherlands, 13th century). Especially for the media meant to be set in iceland--iceland has only ever had ONE breed of horse. if it's anything other than an icelandic horse it is wrong. Horses are such a missed detail in historical visual media. PLUS, what they were WEARING riding horses as well!
your comment made me facepalm and go "of fricking course… HORSES!" because that's one of those things people never even think about if it's not already part of their life. It makes so much sense I feel stupid, lol. Thank you!
Except that Friesian horses have been around since the early middle ages, YES. The misuse of horse breeds is annoying for multiple reasons.
and what the horses are wearing!
OMG this!!! I thought I had to be the only the only one who ever notices that. Or at least that's what my bf tells me. Damn city boy. Lol
I mean, if they film a movie set in Iceland, in Iceland, than they should definitely be using Icelandic horses (or if they are able to source Icelandic horses that live elsewhere for a production filmed elsewhere) but if there is one thing I do know about Icelandic horses is that if you take that horse out of Iceland, legally you cannot bring it back into the country, or ANY OTHER HORSE for that matter. Iceland is VERY PARTICULAR about what kind of animals are allowed into the country because it's such a small and sparsely populated place, with rare species that only live there. So 1) No Icelandic person with an Icelandic horse is going to fly their horse out to be used on a production, and 2) finding enough rare and formerly Icelandic, now immigrant horses that look the part...sounds like a very special kind of logistical hell. So I get why a production filmed elsewhere would not do that.
Although it does greatly sadden me that Bernadette was unable to find historians for the movies that had Native Americans, I fully appreciate that she still acknowledged them and tried to find someone. Certainly happy she didn’t try to tackle that herself or completely dismiss them being there. Natives are far too often dismissed and forgotten about, so even though she couldn’t find a native historian, it’s nice to see some acknowledgment❤
Bernadette, as a fellow Indian, I am so SO glad you included Indian historic movies as well! That being said, I love your channel and appreciate your work and the effort you put in making historic clothing 💛
The Indian critic could learn to pronounce "saree/sari" rather than "seri"
@@rashmiramaswamy6472 like omg !!! That irked me so fucking much !!!
as a filipino, i so appreciate the addition of maria clara at ibarra in this tier list and it also getting the praise that it rightly deserves.
Maria's enthusiasm was infectious!
Oh I'm watching this one!
Is it good? Where can I watch it in the US ?
@@twinnish yeah the surroundings in the scenes are exquisite. in the show, they speak a flowery version of tagalog with some spanish lines mixed into the dialogue!
I have never heard of this show, is it good?
ok an insane amount of thanks to Bernadette for taking the time to subtitle this!!!! its so nice that she spends the time to do such well done subtitles with punctuation and everything for all her videos but this is such a long video and that must've taken agesss and its just amazing :) thank you!
I agree super hard
pity these subtitles are full of mishearings. "credit words do" instead of "credit where it's due" my god
Im 99% her sibling does the subtitles. Cannot remember their name rn.
Love proper subtitles, but I hope whoever has access to change the subtitles gives it another once over.
The “(speaking in foreign language)” or “curdle” or “hurdle” for what I think must be “kirtle” are some creases that could use a spot of ironing out in otherwise Tis Peak subs.
Yes! They're not perfect, but they're very well done and infinitely better than many attempts I've seen. Most people don't even have subtitles at all. Thank you for considering your disabled viewers. We appreciate you 💗
So, first of all, THANK YOU. This video is a balm to my soul. Secondly; I work as a costume design consultant for low budget/no budget indie historical productions and like, I get that there's budget/vision considerations etc but it's still pretty brutal when I condense days of research on sumptuary laws, veiling practices and the squirrel fur trade in 15th century europe into a short, accessible powerpoint, and the finished product still looks like some weird amalgamation of 1692 american Puritan and 1870s Victorian.
I have no broader point to make, I just wish more people cared about this stuff bc it's really cool.
❤ Agreed!
Budget constraints, director/producer input "I don't care, I want this LOOK" or talent refusing to wear appropriate undergarments: I have friends who have encountered all of these while working in the tv/film/theatre industry with costuming. Yes, many costumers DO know better but often don't get to show what they've researched.
Regarding the "teddy bear" shaped helm at 28.11. It's a German, clap-visor pig faced bascinet. My husband is a medieval armour historian and commented someone really did their research for the helms.
I'm low key IN TEARS about The Last Kingdom performing so badly in terms of costumes 😭 I'm writing my history MA thesis about this show and it is very well done in terms of "accuracy" of the historical storyline. In some parts it is like seeing the Anglo Saxon Chronicles coming to life. How sad that they missed out on making the show even better by ditching the unnecessary dramatic leather armor or the straight up black muscle shirt that Uhtred is wearing in one of the scenes!
If its the show im thinking of, I saw a modern brick wall in the first episode and that was enough for me 😂
Similar thoughts here - I did my MA in Med Arch at York and I love these books; but the show is...well, it's a design choice....barely.
Totally agree with you, but more because I just loved this show so much. *big sigh*
@@worrywirt one of the reasons I'm ONLY concentrating on the historical events and not on costumes or set design...if I got into that, I would exceed the permitted word count and probably fail 😅
That is a hilarious irony, really
I know this would be a lot more work in editing, but it would be really cool to see historically/archaeologically accurate examples of the outfits the characters _should_ have been wearing or, in the cases where the production did a good job, the real pieces that they were likely using as reference
Agreed!!! Would love that too!❤
When actresses complain about wear corsets for shows I will now have to ask if they were wearing it right side up. LOL
There is one episode of, I think, Frasier where someone is wearing a corset backwards lol.
I spotted that right away, but thought I was mistaken as surely Bernadette would have picked that up immediately! Was relieved to have her spot it as well.
@@mylilywhitea3551 I did as well. It definitely looked very wrong.
So charmed by the woman who explained Chinese historical dress using cutouts. Such an adorable and useful idea! Must subscribe to her!
Yes, I agree. This was very helpful since I am woefully unfamiliar with the garments !
It works especially well since the garment construction of Hanfu has always (for more than 2000 years!!! despite a lot of fashion changes) been done flat on a table/the ground without anything like darts etc.
@@misss7777 thank you for that info!
Regarding the Against the Ice Greenland outfits? VERY accurate. if it wasn't for the Amelia Earhart wannabe it would be Tis Peak. Polar exploration of this period was very well photographed because they wanted to sell pictures after to raise funds and also document for science. Like, my dad the polar exploration geek can tell you which expedition it is from the gear because the filmmakers like to replicate specific shots. Any filmmaker who does makes this? Guaranteed polar geek or fell down the rabbit hole during research time.
Location and cultural background of polar explorers also makes a difference. You make a point about knowing the exploration based on the clothing. I am by no way a geek...but my Grandfather was on the St Roch in Canada's Arctic, and the stupidity, arrogance or both, of some of the explorers, and that continued into some of those working at his time in Canada's high Arctic
@@rosemarysmith5967the whole Franklin expedition and retrieval of the boats are the perfect example of arrogance and stupidity.
I love these not just because it's neat to see how visual media stacks up with history, but also because you bring in different people who know certain cultures or time periods. It's cool to hear from them.
Yes, VERY refreshing and entertaining to hear from folks who have such knowledge & passion for their culture !
I am really hoping Bernadette names some experts on USA Native Peoples research as I, for one, want to learn more ! Also, the Native People's of Canada, as the Cultures overlapped. Also, the Inuit Culture I believe is considered a seperate culture. I would love to also learn more about Mexican Native Folks before Spanish Conquest.
So much to learn !
Thanks for all the work, Bernadette & all her guests !!!
Yes, this is great. I hope Bernadette can contact some experts on Native American fashions so we can hear from them. Maybe a follow up episode?
The "teddy bear helmet" is in fact a Bascinet helmet, around the 1380s this type of helmet was redesigned and improved with a larger visor, often shaped as a beak or conical point to which was given the name of "hounskull". It was however very common throughout Europe to have visor purposefully made in the shape of an animal during the Renaissance period, be it a dog, cat, fox, bear and other undefined creatures.
This is so amazing, thank you.
@@SA-bc6jw you're most welcome!
I love that Bernadette included shows about all different regions of the world and actually made in different regions of the world and when she wasn’t knowledgeable enough on these areas/times, she got someone else in to explain it. It’s really interesting seeing more about the historical fashion in different countries and not just the UK and America. I would have loved to see even more countries but obviously Bernadette can’t do literally every historical movie and tv show from 2022 otherwise this video would have been insanely long.
My main comment in the Maria Clara at Ibarra series that she did not point out is the hemline of the skirts for most of the working class women especially to the "indios". It is highly unrealistic for women of laborous working stature to be wearing long trains in their everyday work environment. Plus, it would've made a very obvious class distinction between the natives(indios), the spanish, and the half bloods to further solidify the opression that the native filipinos were put through simply by using the appropriate hemline.
Edit: kudos to Bernadette for attempting to include all historical dramas outside european and american dramas.
35:47 Ruohan Song’s paper demonstrations for the garments was such a nice touch! I appreciate it because we get to see how those pieces worked together.
Jimmy is just delightful especially when he's absolutely baffled at the awful choices. His trash-talking gives me so much joy!
Same 😂
Bingo at 43:46 with "shot in the dark to hide the sins" "men are more accurate than the women" "free space" "modern make-up" and "made from leather for no reason!
Thank you to all the collaborators! This is such a fascinating deep dive into world clothes!!!
nice, i got bingo 32:28, "made of leather no reason," "what period is this supposed to be?" "Extras more accurate than leads," "deliberate anachronism" and "improper sleeve cutting"
I Second that with a note that at this point, already 17 fields have been crossed out. Wonderful, truly.
I got it at 50:48 : made from leather for no reason, men in modern suits, free space, modern makeup, wrong century/decade.
I'm at 33:18, counted the sandman episode for "shot in the dark to hide their sins". Had the freebie in the middle, "extras more accurate than leads", "modern sleeve cutting", and "cross lacing before the 19th century"
I got bingo at 47:26 with “where are their hats/vails??” “Deliberate anachronism” “made from leather for no reason” “modern sleeve cutting” “Larpcore armor”.
The scene with Lestat you used for Interview With The Vampire, he is intentionally dressed outdated. He is supposed to look out of place next to everyone in the poker scene. That's why Louis teases him upon their first meeting saying his fashion is out of style. Louis helps update his wardrobe to the fashionable clothes of the time after they become friends. You only showed Grace's lace collars who's only a minor character and in a couple scenes. What about the rest, and the main characters and season 1 spans few decades. Carol Cutshall is an amazing costume designer and she shows all her historic research on her instagram. The suits especially in this show are excellent.
Yeah I was surprised we didn't get more praise for the outfits that were straight out of Leyendecker's fashion ads, for the changing fashion for Lestat and Louis through the 1910s and '20s. I'm not super well-educated in this area but I could at least tell that a lot of thought and effort was put into their costuming throughout the series.
@@mastelsa Yes! The pinstripe one Lestat wore to Louis' family dinner with the green tie, that was a straight replica from a Leyendecker illustration as well as the opera tuxedos. I also loved all the immaculate mix n' match coordination in Louis' suits and shirting with the various stripes, patterns and tweeds.
It's probably just that Bernadette is an expert in women's fashion and less knowledgeable about men's, she's said so pretty often. Plus with reviewing a whole bunch of shows it makes sense to watch the first (few) episode(s) and not the whole season, unfortunately 🤷
@@elinewww I understand it's a lot of shows and these videos take a lot of time and effort which is VERY commendable. It's just a little misleading because Lestat is supposed to look out of place in the scene she used to rate the costuming and that's talked about in the pilot within the first 15 minutes. I guess she wasn't able to watch the whole thing and just skipped around to look at costumes so she missed the dialogue.
Dude bro she might not have watched the show - she could have just gotten some screen grabs. We do not know. /nm
I cackled when I saw OFMD on this list. Historical... accuracy? This is the show with the Hot Topic headband, the Mad Max pirate ship, and the chicken hat at the boat party. I'm impressed you found anything historical to note! (affectionate)
I just watched a show that is supposed to be historical. They did a close-up of the actor's shoes as they got out of a carriage. They were wearing super modern boots. Which what ever I could have moved past that.... but then I saw the plastic aglets on the shoelaces..... all I could think was it would have been so easy to just tuck those laces into the boots! Why!? Why couldn't they just do that!?
Last night I watched 20 minutes of the new BBC "Marie Antoinette" drama, and spent almost all of it complaining that nobody had powdered hair. Although that was the least of the programme's problems.
So what I'm saying is, I feel your pain.
👀 what show??
@Chevy’s Homestead Shadow And Bone. I love the book series and I'm good at separating the book from the show because it is an adaptation. So I really enjoy cinematic adaptations. I understand that this is a fantasy show but that's the only plastic that exists so it was just annoying. I could also be nit-picking because the director chopped up the series, reorganized the timeline, and blended the stories of two distant groups of characters that never meet in the books. Even if I pretend the show is separate from the book it's just not good in my opinion. It's very muddled and confusing. Which is sad because the source material could have made a fun show.
@@wifeofsauron1658 good to know! I watch a gold chunk of it but didn’t finish. I had the distinct impression that the group of ppl from outside breaking in were way cooler and more interesting than the main girl and got a little impatient with it. Maybe I should give the books a chance cuz the world seemed Super interesting. Hope my character descriptors make sense haha it was a while ago I watched it and I forget the details.
@@tiffany02020 yep, the 'heist' characters are from Six of Crows and the sequel, which honestly are so much better than the grisha trilogy that they feel like a different author. The trilogy is fun for more history about the world, but honestly the forced romantic subplot(s) take a lot away from an otherwise interesting premise. Cannot recommend the Six of Crows story over the other enough.
I am fairly expert on the habits of the Catholic religious communities, the Daughters of Charity, and the Sisters of Mercy. It is a sister of Mercy portrayed in “Wonder”. It is actually pretty good but the length of the coif (the collar around her neck) is long for the 1850s 1860s. The guimpe (white bib) is very good but the bandeau (across her forehead) is too high and stiff. The pleated wool gown is good, the sleeves are correct and the veil is, as it should be, made of “nun’s veiling”. Unfortunately, the veil is missing the short black under veil known as the domino and missing the stiffening at the front edge around the face. I can’t see the belt and rosary well enough to know if they are right.
How did you become an expert in such a niche thing?
Okay, this is super niche and super detailed, and I'm here for that!
@@bearo8 I am a Civil War reenactor and wanted to do something different at reenactments so decided to do either a Daughter of Charity or a Sister of Mercy. I researched both habits and decided on the Daughter of Charity because I was able to visit the archives at the Daughter’s mother house in Emmitsburg and photograph an original habit. I have been researching and speaking on the contributions of Catholic sisters as nurses during the Civil War for almost 15 years.
@@pointermom7641 wow. That sounds as if you are really invested in your job. It also sounds like an interesting topic of research full of anecdotes to be told.
Wow. I may never have noticed this detail ever. Thank you.
The upside down corset and the modern straw hat pretending to be a bonnet in the sponsorship section is everything 😂
Wow 😮
I didn't notice this and had to go back and check - it's hilarious!! 😂
Jimmy's descriptions of bad choices are the best.
Jimmy is great, I love his videos.
He's definitely getting me to look up his social medias
He’s peak British shade 😂
"I've no idea what Bjork was meant to be." might be my favorite.
Tell us how much you hate it, Jimmy. Don't hold back lol
As a polar historian I was hoping you would include Against the Ice. I completely agree with “It Gets the Job Done.” The clothing is incredibly accurate to what they actually wore on that expedition. If only they hadnt included Party City Amelia Earhart
I love seeing how passionate everyone is where they would only give 'this peak' to something that really hit the mark. They're not just passing it out every time they go around a corner 😂
I absolutely LOVED this! Loved all the specialists coming in to comment on the outfits you weren't qualified to speak on also! Hope you can get a Native American historian in the future, because this history does need to be preserved and shared.
I feel like there are people out there, you just need to ask in specific groups. Not sure how they requested though.
I visited Shibden Hall where Anne Lister lived and the local museum had an exhibition of the costumes for Gentleman Jack. The detail is amaaaaaazing, down to nightgowns, hats and shoes. So so good and definitely deserves the Tis Peak ranking
they're absolutely beautiful , the patterns and embroidery are absolutely beautiful
"Banshees of Inisherin" is set in 1923 and worth a watch!!! It's got a very dark humor and very down to earth, everyday Irish costumes. I loved the movie for its simpleness, dialogues and actual their simple costumes. Also there is a donkey and several other animals to adore.
Yes I just finished it and it's a beautiful movie.
love this, you got me interested with your description of the general vibes and costumes and then sold me with the mention of there being animals to adore lol
Great movie .. i cried my eyes out over that donkey 😢😢😢😢😢😢
I heard that a guy who actually lives on one of the islands the movie was filmed on handmade a lot of the jumpers and other clothes in the film!
OMG! at 36:00 she made props to show it!!! THATS AMAZING!
I hope Gentleman Jack gets picked up for more seasons. So sad that HBO dropped it. Such a fantastic series all around!
I agree! I watched it after seeing last years roundup rather late in the year and got to see both seasons back to back. I loved it!
I was so sad it was cancelled.
I didn't even know it was cancelled NOOOOOOOO. And The Nevers too, HBO is so dissapointing lately :(
It WAS DROPPED FROM HBO?!?!! NOOOOOOOO It's like my favorite show 😭
@@18thCenturyGirl The Nevers was so fun! I'm bummed to hear this news.
Re: Finan in Last Kingdom, I think they were trying to show one of the famous Irish cloaks, exported all around Europe for centuries, and made out of wool that was particularly thick and warm. The problem is that the cloak gimmick was that they treated the outside of the wool with honey or other substances, to make it look a lot like the texture of a natural fleece, but also to help with waterproofing, etc. And the other problem is that apparently the Irish loved to dye these things in very bright colors, or even in multiple colors. So the "Mantle of St. Brigid" relic that's still out there in Bruges at the Sint-Salvator cathedral -- it's still pretty bright and fuzzy and appealing-looking, even after 1500 years or so.
In my mind, all historical tier lists need to include a "Just Stab Me Now" category
Ah, you watch Jill too.
but this category refers to 'armor' which clearly isn't doing anything to protect its wearer. so to bring this in context with normal, non-combat clothes "just exile me now"?
@@benzaiten933
I don't know if you've ever heard of her, but there is a youtuber, Jill Bearup, who does ( amongst other things ) armor reviews with " just stab me now " being the lowest. But I like the " just exile me now " -idea!
"Just stab me now," something I uttered when watching Kate and Leopold for the first time...
Lmao only if Jill aproves
The Woman King making it really work on the African garments and then trashing it hard on the European clothing makes me think it was intentional. It's also possible they spent all the costuming budget on the African garments and so they really did go to Party City (or the Hollywood set closet) to get the European clothing cause they were out of money, and that wasn't the focus of the film.
I love the idea that they chose to care less about the accuracy of the European costuming … how many European films with scenes set in African countries do the same but in reverse? Many, maybe even most of them, I’d guess.
I would love to see Downton Abbey’s costume accuracy!
Quick correction: the portrait you put up as "Mary Queen of Scots" is actually Elizabeth's sister Mary I. I loved, loved, loved the costuming in Becoming Elizabeth. Actually, you don't see the coifs under the headdresses in a lot of portraiture of this era, including on the portrait of Mary I you included to show the standing collar style (also, see the portrait of Elizabeth in an orange dress from exactly these years, no coif in evidence). And OMG they did an amazing job with the fabrics and recreating actual garments those specific people wore (including that orange dress, be still my heart). All while making them look like clothes that very rich people would wear day-to-day. Also I love the layered neckline detail, with the embroidery peaking through from the shift underneath, and the sewn-on chains attached to the shoulders.
Maybe I was so impressed because of how badly most shows do with mid-Tudor costume, but there were so many superlative details they included. Also the sets and characterization of the major figures (especially Elizabeth's sister Mary) are amazingly good.
I've studied Tudor portraiture for decades, and I'd give Becoming Elizabeth a Chef's Kiss for sure.
I am glad I read the comments - I was just coming here to say that was a portrait of Mary I! Thank you!
Into a rabbit hole, I'm going to revise my personal rating on Becoming Elizabeth down a notch based on this amazing discussion of possible construction of French hoods. ua-cam.com/video/5Cv7A8KJJuo/v-deo.html Wow, I just can't unsee it now, and all those silly little head crescents just look, well, silly to me now. Mind blown! But it's not because the coifs aren't showing, it appears to be a very long-running misinterpretation of the contemporary portraiture. Wow. (and another resource about the, ahem, "French hood" .... which appears to be a modern misnomer for this headdress ua-cam.com/video/5YakiReB8cA/v-deo.html) Great stuff!
Lol yeah I recognized that immediately.
The Welsh Viking's descriptions of costumes, good or bad, are life giving.
Agreed. And any time he came one, I thought, “This guy probably also loves Time Team”
@@twobluestripes It's funny to see your comment right at this time, because I think just the other day he released a video about how one of the archeologists on the Time Team apparently unwittingly became the source of a mistaken idea circling around that King Arthur's Excalibur-in-the-stone legend could have been inspired by a real bronze age weapon :-D Not saying that he _doesn't_ like Time Team (he probably does!), but he did call them out for this one haha, and the time coincidence here is amusing ;-)
@@AW-uv3cb lots of historical academics have reservations about time team but probably also understand the restrictions the team are under
@@fionamorton3490 yeah, no one is perfect, and the TT work on a tight schedule. Easy to say something vague or speculative that can be misconstrued if someone's asking you while you're focusing on the dig and don't have your answers prepared. Still a great show that educates people about local history and inspires interest in it. Wish we had one like that in my country!
My one Welsh Viking critique is that I wish he would talk about what should have been done if he dismisses a particular style/look. He claimed the barbarian styles in Barbarian were borderline racist because they borrow from Indigenous North American and Māori styles, but I’d love to know what he think would have been more appropriate (even if not cinematic).
Our Flag means Death has the feel of a parody of the century and I completely vibe with their choices and modern easter eggs (I mean they basically invented a pyramid scheme and scamming the rich in one episode)
Again I thank you for not making this list purely about European/North American period dramas, and for consulting with people who are knowledgeable about those other cultures featured!! It also helps us find programs that are maybe not as well known in english speaking countries
I love the broadness and diversity you compile here with your companions.
Wow this flew by. Only after watching did I notice this was the length of a feature film. Fantastic work - love to see specialists do what they’re good at!
I love that each year you getting more and more cultures involved. I hope you can get someone of Native decedent to speak on Native clothing on board too, allthough I do recognise that might be hard due to their being so many different Native tribes and cultures, and the fact that their is sadly still so much discrimination going on against Native people.
So many historical films and TV series that I had no idea about! Adding a lot of them to my watch list, even if the costuming is not historically accurate.
I almost am embarrassed that I have not watched this video until now. I really appreciate your expanding the coverage of shows year by year to include other countries and cultures. So well done!
I know this isn't exactly about historical accuracy, but I would absolutely love to see more analyses of the plausibility of fashion within fantasy works, on the one hand because a lot of fantasy draws (or at least tries to draw) on real historical eras, but also because fantasy societies and characters have to go through the same kinds of logical considerations, like, what do I need to do in my clothes every day, what materials are readily available, what are the weather conditions, how is status and rank expressed etc. and that way I think we can learn a lot about how societies function in general even from the analysis of fantastical societies that don't actually exist. (and of course it's just super entertaining). I just watched the Shadow and Bone series and many of the costumes in there are definitely based on real world time periods and I would just really like to understand more about it and about whether the design choices within that show make sense.
She did something like that for Game of Thrones.
She did a video about Game of Thrones. It's amazing
Agreed! After her Game of Thrones review, I’ve hoped she’d do it again
Check out Costume CO. :)
yessss i'd love to see an analysis of worldbuilding and internal consistency in the costuming in shadow and bone! season one already had so many neat details to spot, and with season 2 coming up there's soon to be plenty of material to look at.
I saw an ad on Facebook talking about Corsage. The main actress was talking about how the corset restricted her breathing and I then rolled my eyes so hard they fell out of my head and into the next room.
And when do we hold these actresses accountable-Why would you let someone lace you down to that point?!
Sometimes--as we can see--the pain is well justified; especially as historic Empress Elisabeth was big into tightlacing, which I don't expect would be comfy for most actresses today. But that's all the more reason to promote understanding of how corsets should be built, fit and worn!
Actresses are made to wear ill-fitting mass-produce corsets which are a lot less comfortable (ask me how I know) and can be downright painful (as well as restrictive), especially if you wear them all day. They're a far cry from historical custom-made and well broken-in corsets.
@@Theater00jock How is this a reply to my comment? I'm well aware of these things.
To clarify, the comments had to do with how when she took off the corset, she realized it was restricting her diaphragm, and she was extrapolating into how that kind of restriction affected women and I, quite honestly, tuned out at that point.
I'm so happy to see The Northman so high on accuracy. Eggers is an extremely talented director and passionate about realistic historic pieces. Such a great film and more people should watch it.
Bingo!!!! 24:20
thanks to “what period is this supposed to be again?”, “made from leather for no reason”, “extras more accurate than leads”, “Larpcore armor”, and “men are more accurate than the women”. Idk whether to be proud of getting it or disappointed in all these movies/shows…..
Shucks, I didn't hit Bingo until 1:02:14! "men in modern suits", "wrong century/decade", deliberate anachronism", "shot in the dark to hide the sins", "where are their hats/veils??" 😂
Sadly only got my final one at 1:13:20, they were doing so great at ticking off the terrible for me early on.
Had:
- muted colour palette
- wrong century/decade
- made from leather for no reason
- where are their hats/veils
But at least it seems fitting that I got bingo on "corsets without chemises"😂
It would have been worth mentioning that the knights of Richard III's bodyguard in The Lost King were absolutely spot on, their armour is very good because they are re-enactors and historical interpreters and are wearing their own stuff. Richard's armour was made for him by an armourer and it's spot on. And fun fact, his red pointy shoes were made by a maker of historical shoes who usually supplies re-enactors of several periods. Zac could have said something about the armour btw.
I really enjoy watching all the specialists mostly ripping apart the shows of different eras and cultures, very instructive.
Thank you for bringing some of the detail to us. I learn so much from commenters.
Oh that’s so cool!
I thought about your costume rankings while watching The Wonder and hoped it would score high - yes!! In noting that there weren't many costumes - I actually thought this was another great historical detail. Florence Pugh's character wears the same clothes day in day out over the main part of the story (a span of two weeks, iirc) until something actually forces her to change. Other characters appear in the same clothes over and over too.
As soon as I started watching “Persuasion”, I KNEW it would be addressed in this year’s costume rankings video, and you did NOT disappoint. 😂🎉
The first scene with the obvious lipstick... ouch.
The thing I loved best about The Wonder is that they had a proper number of outfits. Florence Pugh's character has two dresses until Dublin. You see them both. And when she burns her good dress badly, you see the other one only. It's perfection.
"what in the party city is going on here" I'm dying😂 ...I have definitely used a phrase like that a few times 😂
ALMOST TWO HOURS? it must be my birthday lmao
Also I appreciate how, in the past, you seemed pretty tired of everyone clamouring for you to review every historical film under the sun but now you’ve basically amassed an Avenger-level crossover to bring to light the dress of so many different cultures! Thank you and everyone who contributed to this monster of a video. It’s the perfect end-of-year gift ♡
Modern hat as bonnet, corset without chemise and upside down corset all in the same shot??? 😆🤣🙌🏻🎆
I'm surprised Bernadette didn't mention the cheap modern black nylon stockings! I think it was already too much for her at this point :D
@@scorseve Oh yes. I had to cringe a bit at those stockings. my eyes were drawn to them immediately.
I'm Latvian. I suspected that we might have quite alike dressing style with Estonians but since our languages are very different I was surprised that we call these shoes "pastalas" so closely alike as well.
Jimmy - "I have no idea what Bjork is mean to be" To be completely fair, I'm not sure anybody BUT Bjork is entirely sure what Bjork is meant to be.
But that's why we love Bjork
@@rjr6912 Oh, absolutely.
that's incredibly Bjork of her
Bjork is meant to be Bjork. You can't make her anything else. As to why she's even there I cannot comment.
They didn't put her in costume. She arrived late and had to go on wearing her day clothers.
I feel like “it was a design choice” needs to be a separate chart that is separated into “amazing choice”, “ok choice”, “what year is this”, “bad choice”, and “dark”. That way when this aren’t exactly good, but not really bad they won’t be overhanging the “it was a choice” category.
I can absolutely agree about The Norseman! I watched it after a full day of volunteering with my uni's early medieval education project (we do KS2 supplementary trips) and Several of the props - including some of the swords - are the same replicas we have made by the same smith. It was a bit of a mindbend to realise I was walking around wearing it earlier that day
I find it interesting that Enola's hair, Bernadette's biggest seemingly biggest concern in the film, is also one thing multiple characters (even her mum who is herself subversive in her dress) point out as being off in the show or straight-up say she needs a haircut.
I am so glad that Maria Clara at Ibarra was featured in your channel! It was the best Philippine TV series to date and I must say that they really dug deep in fashion history and they used costumes symbolically to tell more about the characters just like Klay (the main character) who used knickers as her undergarment while it wasn’t a practice in 1880s, to indicate that he’s a modern woman. Ibarra, always use royal-colored cravat to show that he is an elite, and Fidel (Klay’s love interest) always had red cravat when him and Klay have romantic scenes.
just heard ab this series, as a filipino who's super into historical fashion ima have to check this one out
I am currently managing costumes for a stage production where my time period is "vaguely medieval, plus french renaissance for the rich people, and one dance is anime." Which is fine and fun - all we're missing are the turkey legs. BUT this was such a soothing video to watch! Now back to sewing my medieval flamenco dresses...
where can i watch this
i love all the historians and consultants in this! and the paper doll for demonstration was so smart and helpful! I also like the variety in media, the assumption that western media isn’t historically accurate but it’s evident it’s across the board lol
It also makes sense that most things lean into Its a Design Choice since many productions do just want the vibe rather than accuracy bc they assume majority of people watching won’t know the difference; an evocation of time and place rather than an accurate representation, if you will
it was lovely to see Maria Clara at Ibarra mentioned here! 🥺😊 also Ibarra’s clothing is European seeing as he’s just come back from studying in Europe for like 7 years, anyway the show’s historical costuming really just deserves its own video
God, I love Bernadette and her channel, it really inspires me and informs me. Fashion is so overlooked in film sometimes which is a shame because it can convey so much of the societal morays, attitudes, and class structures, it's an important part of history.
i've worked on films and television period pieces and i can't tell you the number of times i was told "just the essence of", or "no one will really know the details" from producers and directors. gahhhh.
@Sherilyn L God that must be frustrating as fuck.
Wake up besties, Bernadette has posted the 2022 Costume Ranking
having seen the pale blue eye. it was lovely! i know more about 1840 -1860 dress, but they got the hair on point, and the costuming was delightful, and felt right, if not being perfect.
there's ne particular dress/coat at one point that is blue velvet with fur trim that was sooooo sumptuous.
they also got an amazing actor to portray poe, he really looked like he does in the photos we have of him
This movie was definitely on point! It was beautifully done. Harry Melling (Dudley Dursley) is amazing as Edgar Allen Poe.
From my understanding, Prey did hire a lot of Native crew members (behind the scenes, not just the actors), and the Indigenous folks I have seen talking about it have mostly offered praise. I hope somewhere out there, there's an Indigenous historical fashion expert who becomes a content creator. I am so very sick of Party City-looking Native "rep" in Hollywood. The internet exists now...there is no excuse!!!
I also loved the OFMD segment (I've been looking forward to your take on it all year). Definitely surprised you didn't mention Oluwande's crocs XD But yes it was all very clearly Design Choice, and I loved every bit of it LOL.
Oh, and I just adore Yang Cheon-Shik! I will definitely watch Pachinko due to his glowing endorsement :):)
Another issue with "Our Flag Means Death", the royal navy uniforms. The officers are a good 50-80 years too early and the crew are almost a century too early.
Then again in ep1 Stede's sailors complain about sewing despite needing to know how to sew to survive, especially a crew that small lol. Super fun show despite some of the weird choices!
I cant comment on the navy, but the sewing thing was a statement about gender roles and what is seen as acceptable for men to do. That's why they went to Roach sewing his arm up, because thats Tough and Masculine TM.
The thing with Black Pete complaining that sewing is “women’s work” is more to show that Pete’s kind of a jerk and to emphasize that they’re a terrible crew. When he asks if they think Blackbeard’s crew sews, OF COURSE THEY DO! If a sail gets damaged in a storm you can’t always make it to port to get it repaired and you’re gonna have to get that done onboard.
They still teach you how to sew in the Navy these days. We got a sewing kit as part of our kits in Bootcamp, and had a full lesson on how to sew buttons back on and fix seams.
tbf they also read pinocchio (which wasn’t written til the late 19th century) and oluwande wears crocs dhsjhdjd
basically everything in OFMD is somewhat or incredibly out of time, and it's always a delightful choice. (like Mary's costuming is super anachronistic but super thematic
I had NO idea brow tattoos had been around that long. Now we need a video on tattooing practices!
That’d be great
I love these annual reviews of historical costuming, though the ranking systems seem a bit arbitrary. I also like to use the CC (because ADHD) and found it amusing that your transcriber (I think you had said you hired that out) used "curdles" instead of "kirtles" a number of times.
I laughed at that a lot too! As a side note it would be nice to have the actual names of non-english garments and people written out instead of "[foreign language]".
i think my favorite was "shaneesa lauren" instead of "chemise a la reine".
@@linr8260 the captions do get sent out, but then they get manually edited which, for a video the length of a Disney animated movie, takes some time. They're fixed now though!
They're not completely fixed. I was laughing at some parts just now. With so many different accents and technical terms, it's understandable. I agree that it would be more respectful to replace "[foreign language]" with the term that was actually said.
An interesting detail regarding the costumes worn by royal ladies in Ponniyin Selvan: the costume designer revealed in the making-of feature that the actors wore underbust corsets underneath the saris to make pinning down the pleates easier. While this was a highly inaccurate sartorial choice, none of the actresses complained about tightlacing and the draping looks stunning on the shaped foundation garment, which shows how efficient and comfortable a corset if made well.
I was really impressed with Emily, the picture of her chosen for the movie poster/cover looks very modern with her hair very straight and worn down but it looks like the film actually does a really good job of recreating the historical aesthetic.
Yeah I haven't seen the movie but as soon as I've seen the posterr here I went: noooo, modern hair and makeup, this is gonna be sooo bad! And was shocked to see that instead the actual movie is quite the opposite.
I actually gave it a pass BECAUSE of the movie poster… I wonder which type of viewers did they aim for with this, if not us people most susceptible to like the contents of the movie ??
I hope next year she's able to find a few experts on Native American dress from different groups/regions/times because I'd love to see those analyzed!
THANK YOU for talking about body types in historical fashion! It’s annoying to see modern body ideals be pushed into other periods!
I love that so many people collaborated for this!
I watched The Lost King, the main character is dreaming of Richard III after seeing him in a play. So she's dreaming of the play's interpretation of what he looks like. It's an ameutur play so they probably can't afford really expensive clothes or to be historically accurate, that's why his clothes seem cheap and don't seem to mirror Richard III portraits. Tho as we find out in the film, Richard III portraits were all vandalised by the tudors. They extended a lot of his features to make him seem 'evil' , so that's probably why he didn't look like his portraits. Especially bc the main character believes Richard III was innocent of his crimes and was a good king- just that the tudors usurped him and then made up rumors abt him to validate the tudors legitimisy to the throne. Shakespeare furthered these rumours, and wrote a damning play abt him 190 years after he died. In reality Richard III was actually a well liked king, was loyal to his brother, a good fighter despite have scoliosis, was loyal to his wife (very rare in those days) and put good laws in places that are still used today. He vastly improved the justice system and translated books from latin so that the poor could understand them.
The portrait shown in the segment about Becoming Elizabeth is not Mary Queen of Scots, that is Queen Mary Tudor. Just a minor detail.
This is basically the only End of Year thing I watch anymore. Fun, funny when the clothes are bad, I get introduced to media i would never have heard of otherwise and it's highly educational.
I expected the Woman King to be in Tis Peak, m'Lord, based on the review, unless just having to split it knocked it down. Fun to hear the expert on this one.
Go find Cheyney's channel too - she's an amazing historian/interpreter/educator! @notyourmommashistory ua-cam.com/channels/EVpwIpE7PpD2rt1SGtAkJw.html
The expert certainly had me wanting to watch the movie immediately !