My gym was getting rid of literally 10k steel carabiners they were using for quickdraws, I got a whole bucket and now I can bail any time without being financially destroyed by $6.50, all while making everyone wonder what asshole is leaving this 20 year old jank all over the place.
You know I don't really have any interest in climbing and probably never will, but as a mechanic, I love seeing the stress tests and it is fascinating to see all the equipment, plus you are located in my own backyard.
The test I would like to see is loading the rope as if actually bailing (rappelling) and then breaking testing the rope to see if there was any actual damage to the rope. Even better set of these bailing scenarios rappel on the rope (with a backup if you are concerned), pull the rope through the piece and then break testing the rope to see if there was any strength loss. The current video is creating gear fear where none should exist.
Always carry a super small quick link. ITS a 5mm CAMP quick link and a good place to keep it is on the back of the harness. You’ll never notice it till you need it for unexpected rappel
I don’t quite understand the point of this, though I see tons of people do it. It’s far less versatile than a carabiner and not much cheaper/lighter. Why not just bring an extra wire-gate?
@@eqqos you’re absolutely right, that you can just use a carabiner. For a lot of people, a carabiner is their go to for retreating. I just find the 5mm quick links to be cheaper, lighter, and most important is they take up almost no room (which can be nice when you got a double rack on). I climb a lot in the lower sierras so bailing is something to always be prepared for, and because of this I usually buy many at a time making it even cheaper.
@@eqqos single wire gate carabiner is not considered safe to rappel off. the quicklink has a screw gate and is much cheaper and smaller than a screw gate carabiner.
Just pick up a normal sized one from Home Depot for $3. I always have one just for replacing wornout ones at the top of the route. Thankfully, I've only had to bail off of on once.
I have a small quicklink on the back of my sport harness that is just inconvenient enough not to use for anything else. If I'm in trouble, that's what I'll sacrifice to get down. Funnily enough, I've always been able to retrieve all my stuff so I've never needed it.
I doubt there was any damage in any of the setups at body weight which is what is being applied while bailing. And if you just rappel then there is no sawing action and the webbing will be just fine too. Test the situation you are discussing don't test to failure.
I've never climbed and I've been watching this channel for ages, I am curious what a typical whip or bail is relative to these break notes? He always seems wary at anything at or below 12kn, and the math I've seen is crazy in numbers for what it translates to as weight. All of that said, I've been very interested in at least trying indoor climbing to see if I like it, and if I do, very likely outdoor climbing.
Depends on whom or what youre looking at and the setting of the fall (rope drag, weight of the climbers, soft/hard catch…). The draw/bolt/cam sees different forces to the climber as well as the belayer. Typically it lies between 2kN and 6kN (Petzl says so). A bail is usually controlled so it could essentially be not much more than bodyweight. 12kN is the max force to occur on a climber when a rope is tested for it to be certified as a climbing rope. So if some piece of equipment is below 12kN, it means you could snap it in a worst case fall.
Kinda missing the point here. With a biner you can pull the rope though and you left a nut and a biner. Just bare rope though a wire it's likely you can't pull the rope our you wreck the rope. It's all safe though, you're not going to break the rope or the wire with body weight
Take ladders and learn to aid climb. If it’s bolted, take an extendable clip stick and a length of rope long as your clip stick and a progress capture. Clip the next bolt you see
from hownot2 to where to buy stuff... i bail on cheap cord, youre tests are just insane, forces on bailing max out around 3KN too ! hey "is your life worth ..." how to sell shit
I'm going to leave behind an $80 cam, but the $7 Petzl Spirit is coming with me! 😂
My gym was getting rid of literally 10k steel carabiners they were using for quickdraws, I got a whole bucket and now I can bail any time without being financially destroyed by $6.50, all while making everyone wonder what asshole is leaving this 20 year old jank all over the place.
Those steel carabiners are great for making toprope anchors too. Beefy as hell
You know I don't really have any interest in climbing and probably never will, but as a mechanic, I love seeing the stress tests and it is fascinating to see all the equipment, plus you are located in my own backyard.
I started with I was just gonna teach myself to rappel , and soon I found myself top rope soloing and it’s been great !!
Climbers would shit a brick when they see some of the rappel anchors that canyoneers use.
Yeah, why are you not using better anchors in this day and age?
It's fun that you seem to care just as much about the rope as your viewers' lives! There was passion in that "that was terrible for the rope"
One handy thing about always having a backup 8 on my harness is that I know there's a biner holding it there.
8's are under-appreciated in the rock world
@@dirtbagsinc.1689 what is a backup 8? Like a backup figure of eight knot?
Whether I'm a rich dentist or a middle class newt I'm bailing on whatever gets me home safe.
The test I would like to see is loading the rope as if actually bailing (rappelling) and then breaking testing the rope to see if there was any actual damage to the rope. Even better set of these bailing scenarios rappel on the rope (with a backup if you are concerned), pull the rope through the piece and then break testing the rope to see if there was any strength loss. The current video is creating gear fear where none should exist.
yeah, right, in any real life rappeling szenario there won't be a higher load than 1kn...
Always carry a super small quick link. ITS a 5mm CAMP quick link and a good place to keep it is on the back of the harness. You’ll never notice it till you need it for unexpected rappel
I don’t quite understand the point of this, though I see tons of people do it. It’s far less versatile than a carabiner and not much cheaper/lighter. Why not just bring an extra wire-gate?
@@eqqos you’re absolutely right, that you can just use a carabiner. For a lot of people, a carabiner is their go to for retreating. I just find the 5mm quick links to be cheaper, lighter, and most important is they take up almost no room (which can be nice when you got a double rack on).
I climb a lot in the lower sierras so bailing is something to always be prepared for, and because of this I usually buy many at a time making it even cheaper.
@@eqqos single wire gate carabiner is not considered safe to rappel off. the quicklink has a screw gate and is much cheaper and smaller than a screw gate carabiner.
Just pick up a normal sized one from Home Depot for $3. I always have one just for replacing wornout ones at the top of the route. Thankfully, I've only had to bail off of on once.
@@brandonsparks5786 I do go to HD and HF if I need Mallions for connecting chain to top rope bolts. Don’t think they have a rated 5mm one though.
I mean you obviously can… I wouldn’t lower though.
I have a small quicklink on the back of my sport harness that is just inconvenient enough not to use for anything else. If I'm in trouble, that's what I'll sacrifice to get down. Funnily enough, I've always been able to retrieve all my stuff so I've never needed it.
I doubt there was any damage in any of the setups at body weight which is what is being applied while bailing. And if you just rappel then there is no sawing action and the webbing will be just fine too. Test the situation you are discussing don't test to failure.
There absolutely would be a rubbing action...
Amen brother
People have died specifically because of the sawing motion generated by rapelling
I always carried Bail Biners. Even when I was a broke, dirt bag climber. Dirt Bags are people too.
It’s good to know that climbers make fun of dentists just like us mountain bikers do
I've never climbed and I've been watching this channel for ages, I am curious what a typical whip or bail is relative to these break notes?
He always seems wary at anything at or below 12kn, and the math I've seen is crazy in numbers for what it translates to as weight.
All of that said, I've been very interested in at least trying indoor climbing to see if I like it, and if I do, very likely outdoor climbing.
Depends on whom or what youre looking at and the setting of the fall (rope drag, weight of the climbers, soft/hard catch…). The draw/bolt/cam sees different forces to the climber as well as the belayer. Typically it lies between 2kN and 6kN (Petzl says so). A bail is usually controlled so it could essentially be not much more than bodyweight. 12kN is the max force to occur on a climber when a rope is tested for it to be certified as a climbing rope. So if some piece of equipment is below 12kN, it means you could snap it in a worst case fall.
Isn’t this why everyone is supposed to carry a mallion with them as part of their “Ok, S?*t ! Kit”?
Why use a carabiner if you just showed that it’s fine without? Just abseil from double strands.
Kinda missing the point here. With a biner you can pull the rope though and you left a nut and a biner. Just bare rope though a wire it's likely you can't pull the rope our you wreck the rope. It's all safe though, you're not going to break the rope or the wire with body weight
Take ladders and learn to aid climb.
If it’s bolted, take an extendable clip stick and a length of rope long as your clip stick and a progress capture. Clip the next bolt you see
I always carry one quick link, just in case
from hownot2 to where to buy stuff...
i bail on cheap cord, youre tests are just insane, forces on bailing max out around 3KN too !
hey "is your life worth ..." how to sell shit