Man you’re good! My most impressive bit is 7000rpm on a 50cc with a 44th sprocket, balanced crank, NT speed carb, large banana pipe that’s it @34mph I’m 140lb
youtube is really sensitive with links in the comments but if you go to aliexpress and search for "Performence Cylinder Kit 2V 80 for Bicycle Engine F80 47MM 80CC" you'll find it. It's USD$29 plus shipping which is pretty good value for what you get
@@SafetyUggs Thanks. More for curiosity, I'll check it out. Keep up the good work ! My 80cc build hit some major roadblocks with the frame wheel combo so I ended up buying a 1500W ebike
@@SafetyUggs Same in Canada, but they haven't bothered me yet. ( knock on wood) I stay under 20 mph on the city streets . that's the E-bike limit. { Riding motorized bikes on the sidewalk or street is illegal in Canada.)
Im interested in those Perpex covers and was hoping you still were doing those? DIY battery listing expired. Those ones i got in green are just amazing and thanks again 😊
Hey man, it'd be great if you do more hybrid builds with different pipes/carbs/porting and what not (such as ported 70cc iron minarelli, athena sport, athena hyper, racing, athena 80 jog, MXS racing jug, piaggio and more) if you can afford it or if someone sends those to you to dyno. It would tell us how much hp it's pushing. I always wondered how much hp my 70cc athena sport actually pushes, I always guessed around 10hp. Depending on what site you buy the jugs from, you can always return them after testing.
Thanks for the real results. Much appreciated. Just built a 69.4cc Mineralli for my full suspension Shoe-horn build. looks like I need a jet kit for my Bofeng carb. Is the case "port matched" to the aluminum spacer? The carb trick: Is it just the outside of the port that is raised?
@@Paul_Gale i didn't port match the transfers and I'm sure there a bit of power that could be had there when I do. The high flow mod is straight through the carb, both sides
Stock exhaust was a flat 1hp, the peak when the pipe hits is ~6hp. The dyno may be reading high or low but it's more just a tool to compare mods and tuning
I think you don't understand what scavenging is, or the function of a stinger on a tuned pipe. If you are interested, in an earlier video I dyno test various lenghts of the stinger (the extra freaking bend) to see what effect it has on peak power and the power curve. It is absolutely necessary and removing it, or shortening it, or making the ID larger, massively decreases engine output.
@SafetyUggs Huh, very very interesting. I thought that bend in that pipe would create a blockage to be honest with you. I am hearing that you wanna run your pipes as open as possible. I'm sure the video says it, how much HP are you generating with that cylinder and pipe combo? Looking to port and polish my cylinder when I am done with it, upgrade the carb to a better one like a NIBI and use a real dirt bike pipe from a RM80 or 65CC pit bike. I do not have the skills or money to do so right now. I have money to do mild tuning which is better then stock always for these things. Stock components are junk lol. I like DreyGrach's set up. It is bad ass. Any ways enjoy your build, where did you get that dyno it's pretty cool. If my nose had a extra bend in it I wouldn't breathe too well. It's like walking up the hill with a covid mask on. How do you feel half way up?
@SafetyUggs I run 100LL Gas at 20:1 and VP110 at 20:1. Use lead to cool the top end of the cylinder so it doesn't self destruct and ethanol is poison. I am going to use 20:1 gas mixed with seafoam to start. Just regular 90 Octane non ethanol.
@@Outback69 if its not a tuned pipe, absolutely, the higher the flow, the less resistance and if you can get the pipe to scavenge (actively 'suck' out bunt exhaust gasses from the cylinder), even better. With a tuned pipe, you have some pretty interested physics going on in there. You want a ballance of back pressure to help cylinder stuffing (the pipe makes a strong vacuum when the exhaust ports open to suck extra fresh air and fuel into the pipe, which is then later forced back into the cylinder once the transfers close and just as the exhaust port closes, this is how a tuned pipe works, it effectively forces higher than atmostpheric pressure into the combustion chamber which is the same as running a few PSI of boost on a 4stroke), but not too restrictive or you'll end up with very high combustion temps, low exhaust gas flow and less whole system effeciency. There's a whole lot of science into a tuned pipe, way more than I'll fully understand so I just leave it up to the exhaust design calculators which I use for my pipes. I was sceptical too, It seemed like a restriction on the end of the pipe would hurt power but turns out the 60+yrs of research these engineers have put into pipe design are correct. Stray too far from the ideal design parameters and you loose power. As for slapping on a RM pipe, the pipe is designed more around exhaust port timing and RPM than it is engine capacity. It'll work, much better than your stock pipe but it'll make nowhere near what a well designed pipe for your particular engine can make. If the pipe is designed to come alive at 9000rpm, but your engine's peak power (due to port timing and other things) is 7000rpm, it'll get you a little more RPM than stock but it won't run like a RM80 and won't have that crazy powerband you'd get on an RM. The dyno is an old 80's Vane Chassis dyno I use for tuning cars
@@Outback69 Unless you have crazy high compression, I've found no difference between cheap and nasty e10 vs 98octane premium fuel. Oil ratios also adjust mixture and there's some pretty interesting papers about different oil ratios and peak power in racing two strokes. Probably doesn't apply to these chinese toys though
Right on, I love the numbers. Thanks for sharing.
Bofang power 💪 and math 😊
This is who you want to ask about the perpex covers 😳
@@Jarrod_D designed for the porting... 66/80cc lot of work went into that beyond a box stock kit
Always love a good motorised bike. Good stuff mate!
Man you’re good! My most impressive bit is 7000rpm on a 50cc with a 44th sprocket, balanced crank, NT speed carb, large banana pipe that’s it @34mph I’m 140lb
Great work 👏 thanks for sharing your work 👍 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Great to see you are making videos again :) do you have a link to the Minarelli kit?
youtube is really sensitive with links in the comments but if you go to aliexpress and search for "Performence Cylinder Kit 2V 80 for Bicycle Engine F80 47MM 80CC" you'll find it. It's USD$29 plus shipping which is pretty good value for what you get
@@SafetyUggs Thanks. More for curiosity, I'll check it out. Keep up the good work ! My 80cc build hit some major roadblocks with the frame wheel combo so I ended up buying a 1500W ebike
You finally posted ya!
Good stuff 👍
Love the vids
Thanks :-)
@@SafetyUggs most welcome sir
Fun Watching Dyno stuff, 👽👍
It's a shame we can't legally ride these on the road over here :-(
@@SafetyUggs Same in Canada, but they haven't bothered me yet. ( knock on wood) I stay under 20 mph on the city streets . that's the E-bike limit. { Riding motorized bikes on the sidewalk or street is illegal in Canada.)
Great video bro thanks for sharing results
Looks great. Id love to see a ride.
Im interested in those Perpex covers and was hoping you still were doing those? DIY battery listing expired. Those ones i got in green are just amazing and thanks again 😊
Yeah we can do another run of those, I'll put that listing back up next week
@@SafetyUggs ok great I'll look for it then 😊
🙏 stock carburetor runs great on the hybrid I'm going to test with one today after I high flow it maybe I would upload a video later
Lmk if you do and I will check it out
Hey man, it'd be great if you do more hybrid builds with different pipes/carbs/porting and what not (such as ported 70cc iron minarelli, athena sport, athena hyper, racing, athena 80 jog, MXS racing jug, piaggio and more) if you can afford it or if someone sends those to you to dyno. It would tell us how much hp it's pushing. I always wondered how much hp my 70cc athena sport actually pushes, I always guessed around 10hp.
Depending on what site you buy the jugs from, you can always return them after testing.
How much squish gap?
Why dont you use an Acme rocket like wile.e coyote did
Thanks for the great video 😊
Thanks for the real results. Much appreciated.
Just built a 69.4cc Mineralli for my full suspension Shoe-horn build.
looks like I need a jet kit for my Bofeng carb.
Is the case "port matched" to the aluminum spacer?
The carb trick: Is it just the outside of the port that is raised?
@@Paul_Gale i didn't port match the transfers and I'm sure there a bit of power that could be had there when I do. The high flow mod is straight through the carb, both sides
What pipe generator did you use?
What were the horse power numbers?, can't really tell on the graph
Stock exhaust was a flat 1hp, the peak when the pipe hits is ~6hp. The dyno may be reading high or low but it's more just a tool to compare mods and tuning
I really appreciate how much info you share, and time and effort into your videos, you're a true diy enthusiast.
Those numbers 😂
Wait! What's the carb mod? Can you refer me to where this info is posted?
You mean the info I included in this video? or something else?
Sorry I was distracted when you talked about it my bad.
Is that a stock crank?
Most likely, this bike and motor was $20 from FB marketplace
Look, remove that extra freaking bend in that pipe. You will screw your selfm it needs to scavenge
I think you don't understand what scavenging is, or the function of a stinger on a tuned pipe. If you are interested, in an earlier video I dyno test various lenghts of the stinger (the extra freaking bend) to see what effect it has on peak power and the power curve. It is absolutely necessary and removing it, or shortening it, or making the ID larger, massively decreases engine output.
@SafetyUggs Huh, very very interesting. I thought that bend in that pipe would create a blockage to be honest with you. I am hearing that you wanna run your pipes as open as possible. I'm sure the video says it, how much HP are you generating with that cylinder and pipe combo? Looking to port and polish my cylinder when I am done with it, upgrade the carb to a better one like a NIBI and use a real dirt bike pipe from a RM80 or 65CC pit bike. I do not have the skills or money to do so right now. I have money to do mild tuning which is better then stock always for these things. Stock components are junk lol. I like DreyGrach's set up. It is bad ass. Any ways enjoy your build, where did you get that dyno it's pretty cool. If my nose had a extra bend in it I wouldn't breathe too well. It's like walking up the hill with a covid mask on. How do you feel half way up?
@SafetyUggs I run 100LL Gas at 20:1 and VP110 at 20:1. Use lead to cool the top end of the cylinder so it doesn't self destruct and ethanol is poison. I am going to use 20:1 gas mixed with seafoam to start. Just regular 90 Octane non ethanol.
@@Outback69 if its not a tuned pipe, absolutely, the higher the flow, the less resistance and if you can get the pipe to scavenge (actively 'suck' out bunt exhaust gasses from the cylinder), even better. With a tuned pipe, you have some pretty interested physics going on in there.
You want a ballance of back pressure to help cylinder stuffing (the pipe makes a strong vacuum when the exhaust ports open to suck extra fresh air and fuel into the pipe, which is then later forced back into the cylinder once the transfers close and just as the exhaust port closes, this is how a tuned pipe works, it effectively forces higher than atmostpheric pressure into the combustion chamber which is the same as running a few PSI of boost on a 4stroke), but not too restrictive or you'll end up with very high combustion temps, low exhaust gas flow and less whole system effeciency. There's a whole lot of science into a tuned pipe, way more than I'll fully understand so I just leave it up to the exhaust design calculators which I use for my pipes.
I was sceptical too, It seemed like a restriction on the end of the pipe would hurt power but turns out the 60+yrs of research these engineers have put into pipe design are correct. Stray too far from the ideal design parameters and you loose power.
As for slapping on a RM pipe, the pipe is designed more around exhaust port timing and RPM than it is engine capacity. It'll work, much better than your stock pipe but it'll make nowhere near what a well designed pipe for your particular engine can make. If the pipe is designed to come alive at 9000rpm, but your engine's peak power (due to port timing and other things) is 7000rpm, it'll get you a little more RPM than stock but it won't run like a RM80 and won't have that crazy powerband you'd get on an RM.
The dyno is an old 80's Vane Chassis dyno I use for tuning cars
@@Outback69 Unless you have crazy high compression, I've found no difference between cheap and nasty e10 vs 98octane premium fuel. Oil ratios also adjust mixture and there's some pretty interesting papers about different oil ratios and peak power in racing two strokes. Probably doesn't apply to these chinese toys though