Large Format Camera Still life, using 1 hour Stand development in 510 Pyro developer
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
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The video content shows how to develop film using a method called stand development, I take you from capture using my 4x5 Film Camera and show the full development process and the end result with many tips and advice along the way.
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Hi Martin. To say that 90 % plus people use Digital, ie: phone,, D cameras etc. And you have nearly 5000 subscribers, is a Great atchevment, and one you must be proud of, Great Tutorial, it's people like you who keep Film Alive,, Mick👍
Cheers Mick
I've never tried stand development in the 50+ years I've been in the darkroom. But you convinced me to give it a try. Brilliant presentation.
Worth having a go, you can run into problems developing this way, experimentation is the key with detailed notes to look back at
Martin, your images are wonderful, and your approach to film black and white photography makes that genre accessible to the average person. Thank you so much!
I find Semi-stand with a couple of turns at 30' or so really helps with bromide drag.
Yes I agree, once you move that tank it changes from full to semi stand, nearly the same,
Thank you Martin 👌
It's a excellent example of both 510 Pyro and 'stand development'.
Cheers, Kevin Parratt.
8:20 I thought you said something else at first ...😆 Thank you for all the knowledge that you're passing on to the next generations.👍
The final coloured photograph looks stunning. Being mainly a 35mm shooter, large format images are aesthetically mind-blowing. The details and sharpness are exceptional. Also, the features in the photograph look very three dimentional.
It is such a pleasure to listen to you explaining every detail. Thank you!
Looking at your video and your presentation has been very rewarding. I had a darkroom 1980 for about 3 years. I was transferred from Germany to Lawton, OK. I got my training from two German photographers who ran the local photo lab on the base. I started with 35mm and graduated to medium format. I processed all of my film, B/W, and slide. I am working on getting members of our local photo club to embrace some of the old-school photography processes, just to slow down and be more intentional in their photography work. I have used a number of the developers you show on your lab site. But I have never used the "Stand" process. This will be a new venture for me, but I am going to try this as I share my photography experience with my club. Thank you again.
Excellent video Martin. Superb developer. Silverprint, my local supplier, sold out of their first delivery within a couple of days! Keep em coming.
Thank you
Whenever I watch one of your video's Martin I straightaway hit the thumbs up cause I know it'll be good.
Great video ! Thanks for sharing your knowledge ! Best Wishes from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil !!
Very good and detailed explanations, especially regarding the side effects of long development (min. 24:50). Young people may not have the patience to carefully follow all the material, but I assure you that it is worth it. Thanks and congratulations!
I always process sheet film in a 10x8 rotating print tank. Will hold 2 sheets at a time and uses 75mm of solution. Easy!
Thanks for your videos Martin - much appreciated!
Thanks for the tip about the rubber band in the Paterson tank. I've just begun shooting large format, and I wondered how I'd manage it in my Paterson.
Excellent video Martin , stand development work great for 120 also.
Once again Martin your work is impeccable. Stand develop is great. I use Rodinal and get pretty good results. Bromine drag mark are there on 35mm. I mostly use stand development with medium format. Thanks for the info. Always learn something new with your videos. Stay safe, Happy holidays to you and your family.
Bristol Cameras, in the UK, sell the Stearman Press tanks. Just been using mine today; I find it much easier to load than either Mod54 or Jobo tanks
That's great, I wasn't sure, great tank, thanks for commenting
Enjoyed the video and was facinated that you could develop film this way and with such great results. Thank you👍
Your welcome
Beautiful image Martin and I didn't know about the taco method! Always learning!!
Hi Martin! I really enjoy your videos and appreciate the effort you put into making your explanations clear by including screens of apps you use, close ups of lens adjustments, text of important details, etc. that make it easy to follow along and jot down notes when needed. You’re a very good teacher.
Thank you Jay, appreciate your kind comments
Great video, love the detailed explanations and visual walk through. Merry Christmas.
Gorgeous. I just love medium and large format. Obviously you're an expert with these developers too, and the results are stunning. Thanks for the efforts and sharing. Merry Christmas!
Hi Martin, I've recently came across your channel. Thank you for producing so much valuable content. I have been enjoying watching your videos and learnt a lot. Thank you
Thank you for sharing. Your video on stand development is so informative and useful to me as I was just thinking of trying out this method to develop some of my films.
Your welcome
Thank you Martin for all your videos. I have to say that I can´t get 510 Pyro around here, so I tried with D-76 in a 1:3 dilution with Xray film and it works perfectly. Very best wishes.
Hi Martin - thanks for that video - easy to understand and very very helpful - thanx a lot👍
Mr.Henson, I love the video. Actually this is a real master class about b&w photography.
If I shoot the same picture, I will probably meter the darkest shadow and set it as zone 5, and reduce 20% of standard time to develop the film.
But you give me a totally new way to do it. Amazing!
I use HC110 very often . Could you share the experience that how to use hc110 as your special way to develop film?
Thank you so much!
Have wonderful weekend.
Henry
That was an excellent explanation of a natural light indoors shoot with stand development. A polarizer might or might not have helped tame the glass reflections, but exposure times would have been very long.
Mr. Henson, I have been using Ilford FP4 and 510 Pyro for a while now using the semi-stand development with great results. Today I shot a roll of Delta 100, used the exact same method, and the negatives were so under developed that I could barely see anything. Wondering if you have experienced this or any of your viewers. Thank in advance. Never miss your videos. You are a wealth of knowledge. Stay safe my friend.
Delta films are usually high in restrainers which would stop development with such weak dilution (this isn't just 510 Pyro specific) - you would need to use 1:100 and agitate every 10 minutes or more often
Great video Martin, really enjoyable.
Thanks for sharing. Really nice result.
I came across ur video & enjoyed your presentation. I'll give stand dev a try on my 4x5 film. Thanks.
Great video or better said “lesson”…I am getting back to the B&W world and look forward to your videos! Thanks for sharing Martin… stay safe. Cheers..
Great presentation; informative and very useful….thank you…
A great lecture and a beautiful camera. RS. Canada
Nice trick with the rubber band! Never knew of that one 👍
Another excellent in depth video tutorial Martin, i will certainly be giving this a try over the winter months.
As for the Stearman Press SP-445 in the UK, Morco Photographic Supplies and SpeedGraphic stock them.
I too recently received my Reveni Labs meter, so will be looking forward to your video review.
Great to hear that, great tank, and, spot meter
Interesting and very informative. Thank you.
Martin...you are a great teacher and thanks for sharing your knowledge, I don't use Large Format, I stick with 6x9 but always enjoy all your videos...Hope you and your family have a good Christmas...;-)
Thank you
one way I discovered to know how much chemistry to use, Todd Coral said in one of his videos on the subject: 200ml per 8x10" sheet, or equivalents {2x 5x7"sheets, 4x 4x5" sheets, etc.}.
Excellent video - and great primer on stand development.
Subscribed!
I enjoyed the low key presentation style yet full of depth and great advice.
I was amazed at the extent of dilution - yet excellent evenness and a beautiful rich pyro stain.
Does the shape of the tank make a huge difference as most people have Jobo tanks or Paterson?
It would be great if you have a special technique for scanning pyro negatives to explain your workflow.
Thanks for this great video. Really helpfull! Today I'll try a 1+100 rodinal stand developer and see what's coming out... Maybe someday I'll have the chance to gest Pyro 510 too! I'd love to see this printed on paper, the printing process would be really interesting! Thanks^^
Cheers
I have found that two thick rubber bands help hold the top secure on the Stearman tank.
You probably figured this out already, but you can use your Reveni Spot Meter in Zone Mode. Meter your zone 3 area, select zone 3 placement in the meter, and it will provide the proper exposure. An added benefit is that you can hold down the Menu/Compare button, scan the scene, and the meter will tell you where other areas fall on the zone scale.
Cheers Alan, I figured that out, but not the Nick Carver PMM mode , maybe you can enlighten me, thanks
@@martinhensonphotography I haven't used Nick's PMM mode...seems overly complicated to me. But, based on what I've read in the manual it looks like his text descriptors follow Ansel's zone system of 0 - 10. For example, what Nick describes as "Very Light" would equate to zone 8; "Medium Dark" would be zone 3. That said, it gets a little more complicated because you can set the high/low range limits in the config menu. For example, if in the config menu you set the high value to +3, then "Textureless White" would be 3EV above middle grey. Conversely, if you set low value to -2, then "Textureless Black" would be 2EV below middle gray. Essentially, I believe these settings in the config menu enable you to set the dynamic range of the film being used. I hope I haven't just confused you more.
@@alanhuntley55Thanks Alan, I get it, seems overly complicated to me as well, I can do all the above with just the simple spot metering mode, one thing that I did not like is the fact they include a mode on the meter and then you have to download and buy Nick Carvers metering Pdfs which seems a little odd when buying a product that should have detailed instructions especially for the least advance users how to use it correctly.
@@martinhensonphotography Yeah, the idea of having to buy Nick's metering course to fully understand PMM mode bothered me, too. And, the course is more expensive than the whole dang meter! (CAN to USA money conversion) To be fair, though, I believe Nick was offering some sort of discount to buyers of the meter. Don't know if that still applies.
Hi Sir and thanks again for a very detailed video. I started film photography recently because of you and your videos. I'll try out the stand method this weekend, maybe take 2 identical exposures and then develop them differently to compare. This whole thing has reinvigorated my passion for photography in a way that I didn't expect, and I'm very happy for it.
By the way, where do you get your hats from? I've been trying to get some of those but I only get generic newsboy style one where I live.
Cheers!!
Wonderful presentation and results, Martin. I haven't used stand development before but it looks interesting. I do use the SP-445 tank and really enjoy it. Thanks again for sharing your expertise and may you have a Joyous Holiday and Merry Christmas.
Very good video. Thanks a lot! I always use stand development with my Pinhole images in Medium format. always yields a great result easy to print in the darkroom.
I sure wish it was easier to attach a filter to a meter. I hold a filter in front of the meter as the Easy Way but have dropped them. The last one went strait through the space betwixt two boards on a dock. I loved that derp red filter and paid plenty for it.
Wonderful video. Thank you!
Great video as always Martin. I always use #510pyro for developing but not tried stand developing with it yet. A task for this weekend I think :) By the way, Morco in Newark stock the Stearman press kit.
I just tried 510 pyro stand development at 1:500 exactly like you, for 1 hr . I tried 4x5 FP4 and HP5, both shot at respective box speed, same indoors control scene. I shot twice with each film to develop one pair with DD-X (following Ilford times). I scanned the 4 sheets together and I found that 1) contrast was lower with pyro in all cases 2) DD-X has better tonality in the middle tones IMO and 3) both films with Pyro 510 were about 0.5 to 2/3 stop darker across the board. I wasn’t expecting that, looks like stand development loses speed. Next I’ll try semi-stand and regular development with Jobo.
Yea Contrast will be lower that’s what I like about it for the night shots, keeping Contrast low
Very nice tonality.
Thanks
brilliant as always
Gorgeous result, I want to try pyro anytime soon
You always need to use a stopbath
Water form the tap varies in teperature
during the seasons.
Just trying it out now with 120 Pan F for 1 hour 10 mins at 1:500, fingers crossed!
Just recently started watching your channel. Very relaxing and enjoyable. I am curious how light does not enter the container through either of the two top openings?
They have light tight seals
I found you channel yesterday as it popped up on my UA-cam feed. And I am glad it did, seldom do those algorithms work correctly! Really like the content of the video. Very well thought out, shot and explained. I never knew something like stand development existed. So I am going to try it with my large format. The tones in your image are just great. One question- did you do some sepia toning in post?
Yes I add a platinum tone , I always print with warm tone or in warm tone papers. , thanks
I got my SP445 from Mr Cad, great tank
Thanks fir letting us know, it is a good tank , thanks
Great video. Informative on so many levels. Would you have gotten a different result had you used Rodinal.
Similar I would think, maybe not as fine grain or control of highlights not as good as the micro contrast of Pyro based developer's, thanks
Great video Martin
I did laugh at the first scene , for a moment I thought you had a stuffed dog in the window !!
Btw which alkaline fix do you recommend?
I can assure you he’s not stuffed lol, thanks
@@martinhensonphotography glad it made you laugh , but what alkaline fixer do you recommend?
@@AustenGoldsmithPhotography I use photographers formula I get it from here www.stillphotographic.com/shop
Dear Henson, Very nice video. Most useful info. I have several questions: 1) does 510 Pyro differ from ABC Pyro, the developer that Edward Weston used? 2) have you ever photographed a gray card to evaluate bromide drag (we used to call it "surge" and it even occured on our sheet film too unless tray developed) and 3) Kodak had a formula called D23 for contrasty subjects. We used to use it in food photography when, for instance, a set-up had a bowl of rice in it. Have you ever photographed food set-ups with cooked rice? Thank you for your time and knowledge.
Hi Martin, I’ve just shot some Fomapan 400 5x4 sheet film at 250asa with the intention of under-developing the film to reduce contrast . I haven’t tried stand development before, but having just seen your excellent video I’m tempted try stand development using your technique . I will be printing in the darkroom, and wondered whether the colour of the stain would have any contrast affect on the Multigrade paper ? Thanks Ed
Yes I think it will in the respect you will have to use a harder filter, the good part is doing that you don't loose tonal range at the expense of contrast, try it and see
Hi Martin, Love this picture and watched many of your videos, I am just getting back into 4x5 and have a bunch of old film T-max and illford fp5 is there a APP I can get to help me with old film and Reciprosity affects and devo times on new and old films ?PS: I ordered some Pyro 510 and the 4 sheet tank, waiting on dark Tent and Devo, itching to get back at it, thanks for inspiring me again to shoot again, I missed it. Could you do a video on old film developing and saving old film ? this was just in my closet and not the fridge :( Happy New Years, Don
Just crashed and burned with HP5 120 as per these instructions. All chems at a consistent temp no idea why doing another shortly!
Hi, Martin. I have been using 510 pyro on FP4+ sheet film in a Stearman Press tank in a semi stand technique with 2.5 mls of 510 to 500 mls of water and found that I am getting a deposit on the non emulsion side of the negative in bands that coincide with the vertical of the frame of the negative holder. I am using a newer version of the frame than the one on your video. It is best described as what you see left over from applying sellotape to glass and then peeling off the sellotape. It is not happening with development in Ilford DD-X. You haven't mentioned it so sounds as though it is not something you have noticed. Just thought I would mention it and wonder if anyone else has noticed such a problem.
From what your saying it sounds like underdevelopment , also are you placing the negative in the SP holder emulsion facing out ward
@@martinhensonphotography Thanks for the reply, Martin. Definitely loading the emulsion side facing away from the frame, and developed for 20 minutes. I will keep persevering perhaps trying an hour stand development.
Martin, love the video! What’s that app you were using for reciprocity calculations?
Thanks, Reciprocity timer app
@@martinhensonphotography much appreciated! Beats using a calculator!
What is the proper time for fixing using TF-4?
Beautiful! Great results. What scanner do you use?
Epson v800
@@martinhensonphotography Thank you.
Hi Martin, I really enjoy your channel it is great to see someone with a decent knowledge of technical aspects producing UA-cam films. I have a question relating to the stand development method of 5x4 film processing and your other videos about contrast grading. Do you find keeping the film contrast ratio low in the processing (stand development) and then add the contrast in photoshop a good workflow method? And are low contrast negs better than normal/high contrast negatives? Many thanks Glenn
I prefer to work with lower contrast scans and increase it in editing , I find it’s a workflow that suits me personally
@@martinhensonphotography Thanks Martin, all the best!
I just learnt something new today, as I never heard of the stand development method before. Thanks alot for this very informative tutorial! One thing I am not clear about: If I want to use other developers than Pyro, do I need to dilute them as per their data sheet recommendation for the "normal" prozess or shall a similar dilution ratio be choosen as you used for Pyro? Likewise, shall one do a 1 minute initial agitation for the other developers too?
I enjoy learning from your nice educational videos, every time. Many thanks for creating and sharing them.
Bexi938
The dilution is for 510 pyro, Rodinal try 1 to 100 for an hour or Kodak HC110 at 1 to 160, you have to experiment and maybe do research to find what suits you, for all films give anywhere from 30 to 60 sec continues agitation
@@martinhensonphotography Thanks alot for the feedback. I'll try out the stand development method. :-)
I now this video is a little old, but I was wondering what your opinion of the Reveni meter is? The size appeals, but I'm curious as to how accurate the meter is (my eyesight isn't great anyway, and I'm not entirely sure I can rely on both my eyes to always point in the same direction).
Not hard to get used too, in fact keeping both eyes open when metering is relaxing, is a accurate as the person using it
Well explained! Is it possible to develop different filmtypes like FP4, PanF and HP5 at the same time in that method? What will happen when one of the 4 sheet is lowcontrast and the others has high contrast subjects? Will that low contrast motive be too soft with stand developing?
Yes you can, however , you do loose the ability to control contrast individually when they are all in one tank,
@@martinhensonphotography Thank you…
Hi Martin. I've been using various Pyro developers for a couple of years now and I am liking what I get. But I have come to believe that promotion of "stand development" techniques can be misleading to those who don't yet understand the limitations and risks of this option. If not done well, the results can be horrible - bromide drift alone can ruin negatives, especially in roll film formats. If you do not perform at least one agitation in the middle of the time, you are asking for trouble.
Also, I think it would be of immense value if, when doing a demonstration like this, that you include the results of a control image (processed normally in 510, as recommended, with normal agitation) for comparison. The benefits of "Stand" development in an instance like this may prove to be very subtle and for many photographers, not worth the risks.
Yes I agree with you, and I am doing a video as we speak we’re I have used stand on half the pictures the next half will be done normally for comparison? However, in all fairness I did mention the pitfalls and hinted how to tackle it in the video, thanks for your input greatly appreciated
Very nice image.
When you remove the holder does it squeegee off the water and are you worried about scratches?
I never use a squeegee, just add a touch of wetting and soak the film for 30 sec or so and hang to dry naturally
Is that a large format printer I see ?
Yes it is
What brand of fixer I can used with that developer?
analoguewonderland.co.uk/products/zone-imaging-eco-zonefix
Hi Martin , I just developed a roll of fp4 and Acros 100 with this method together in the same tank . The Fp4 was amazing and the Acros a disaster !! Any thoughts on this ??
I really can’t say, what problem did you have with the Acros
@@martinhensonphotography The Acros looked very under developed, while th fp4 was fine , very thin negs with horrible black blobs on the top edge , The Acros was above the fp4 in the tank but I certainly had enough chemicals in there
@@AustenGoldsmithPhotography I wondering if you had enough developer in the tank
@@martinhensonphotography yes I did , I mixed up 1002 ml and filled the tank . I've made that mistake before so I know what that looks like
is there anything special about Pyro developers that make them suitable for stand development? I tried others for stand developments and get all kinds of brown smearing and stains.
510 Pyro was designed to work really well with semi and stand development unlike other staining developers
@@jameslane3846 does it also have the effect of reducing contrast if diluted further than normal? I want to use it for stand development of high contrast masking films.
@@constantinf.5764 normal dilution is 1:100 and compatible with semi stand and this already lowers contrast for higher contrast films. But if you want even more contrast reduction, 1:200 or 1:300. 1:500 will lead to far too much general stain
WAIT a minute, you HAVE a View Camera, thought about Left/Right SHIFT?, this is a parrallel movement, NO distortions, so just adjusts composition, will remove the mirror from the frame, No adjusting the tripod position, or creating ill-will from the 'other', by moving anything!
Yes I did, but it was about stand development not camera movements, thank you
How's the grain?
Very nice
Hi Martin. Can I develop 4 4x5’s using 500ml of dev solution?
Yes