Oh my Gosh! This legit changed the way I have looked at patching drywall by 1000 percent. I'm a home DIYer. I recently installed surround sound in my living room by opening the walls up with a flexible 4 foot drill bit and is g Ryobi Drywall patches. I've been stressing over the patched areas flat and uniform again before painting. I cannot thank you enough for making this video and completely changing my way forward! THANKS!
This is most useful when repainting walls that have been around for a while. The skim coat can hide surface flaws that have accumulated over the years, making the surface look brand new.
Wow that's slick. I noticed that thing on the bright glossy walls and was doing the regular mud by hand and then sanding the entire wall in order to get that consistency where you can't tell the joints at all.
Thank you Dominic for posting, well worth the time to prep the walls properly.. I have on occasion done exactly that to have that look for the paint finish.
I use a skim coat on all of my work, but I've never done this before. I mostly resurface old plaster walls and older textured drywall. Mostly uneven substrate. 2 top coats and the same on all new work (level 6?) to match it up. On a good day all I need to finish is a sanding sponge to straighten out a few blemishes.
For 34 years as a professional Painter and Decorator, i bond my drywall with a PVA mix prior to applying paint. Lovely smooth and consistant finish, just my opinion.
Askmediy: You have THE best drywalling videos. Retired Air Force here hanging out at Lowe's for something to do. Doing drywall at my house (we have a total fixer upper) makes me go mental, but your videos help me get it all sorted out. Wish I was at the pro skill level, I think I would love it then. I'll be doing this on one of our bathrooms since we over-sanded some of the paper. I think this will solve the issue.
Wow, I guess that is one option/technique. Across the water in The Netherlands, we plaster or finish the wall with Knauf MP75 gypsum, either spray or by hand, and go through a process of polishing and smoothing as it drys. Minimal dust and no sanding required. It's so smooth and straight you can literally see yourself in the wall and MP75 is really hard wearing plaster suitable for commercial buildings or homes. Now at least I understand what a North American guy, living in Amsterdam at the time, was trying to explain to me how he plastered a wall, sanded it smooth and had dust everywhere :)
I never do level 5. On occasion I will do level 4 when there is a lot of lighting, but the normal standard here on the east coast is tape, then block coat, then skim coat. After prime then point up where needed.
Good Video Dom ..The Principal Issue of Skimming is covered Sealing the surface texture. I use my wide trowel for skimming walls. Yes commercial and residential projects that present an abundant of lighting will show flaws especially on fresh drywall which tends to absorb primer paint differently in various rooms effected by temperature and lighting. I agree this skimming process is a great insurance for sealing the drywall surface supported by a good primer sealer which is a key factor in improving or achieving a texture smooth finish. Thanks
I worked in the Drywall trade for quite a few years and never knew of an architect to spec this. The best tape job will show joints depending on the lighting. The trick is good tape job, quality primer and FLAT paint. Any type of gloss paint will reflect light off the sheetrock paper differently than off the compound.
I used this method over some patches and it works perfect to blend it all in. I just use a paper plate and some mud with a dab of dishsoap and some water to make it very light weight before I roll it on with a small roller.
Been doing drywall for long time. A crew I worked with sprayed the drywall with water then used squeegees to wipe it down. If you raise the nap on the drywall you can hand spounge it down. Painters dont do their job right for the most part. Yes good primer and sand. Most people dont know it but when you primer you only have so many hours to apply the paint so it bonds. Otherwise its a must sand before paint. You should sand the primer painters.
Great videos Dom as usual. Just throw a thin skim over all the bare drywall after tapped and screw holes filled. Two coats of primer. Game set and match. Next.
Thanks for the great vid, I am likely to do this on my ceiling but with 'Gyprock® Final Finish Topping Compound'. This should work fine right - as I am using the finishing after I complete the taping and coating? I am new at this but want the perfect end result!
I’ve been a drywall finisher for 38 years this is a good process to do for an apprentice first off I never use the sanding pole we call that an idiot stick if I’m doing this smooth finish I use sponge on all my joints and lap marks second of all I covered the entire wall with 1/8 of mod with my 18 inch knife this way I can lay off very smooth with you let marks I come back the next day to take a small sanding block fine finish and take out any of the little thick laps but the rest of them are use the sponge on just the swirl in the walls come out
Very helpful video, first time prepping to skim coat some walls. So... the layer of mud can be really that thin? Thin enough that you can almost see through it?
Holy crap I did drywall taping and finishing for 24 years and finally wised up and became an electrician...I hope your getting paid alot of money for that finish..California we would just put on a light hand texture...but. To each their own...
What's the level 5 compound you use. Can this technique be used in corner beads. Also it would have been good demonstration if u show wall painted to c difference
I simply sprayed RuCoat 10 mils thick with a .516 tip as recommended by the manufacturer, sanded, primed, and painted as usual. Its advisable to back roll if needed, but I didn't see the need. It worked great and it is fast as it can get. 👍
Is this something I would do to get rid of the imperfections i can see on my ceiling? A new ceiling was put up and my spackling skills are intermediate. All of my walls look great but I can see every joint on the ceiling. Clearly I didn't use a wide enough knife and didn't feather it enough. I know I was supposed to use flat paint on ceiling but we used the same paint as used on the walls. A satin pure white. Id like to keep the satin finish look but will consider using flat paint if I have no other choice. Do I need to sand the existing paint or can I spackle right over it? After feathering it properly do I give the ceiling a level 5 finish so I can use the satin paint?
This just might solve my problem. I just scrapes off popcorn finish from my br ceiling but it's not 100% consistent now. I plan on doing a stencil design which will require me to use tape on the ceiling (to hold the stencil up). 24 hours after the popcorn has been removed the ceiling is a bit flakey, meaning little bits and piecing will come off when I primed it earlier. I was thinking of a way to get it back nice and solid and also been out the inconsistencies so when I apply the stencil bits and pieces won't be stuck to the tape. I was thinking using my hand sander with 220 grit then I saw this video. what yah think? just sand, prime then paint or apply joint compound before those steps?
Moon Pie imo, the skimming gives a mire uniform surface for the primer and paint, especially on very old and damaged drywall. I can show you walls that were patched and primed that you can see every patch. The patches have a much smoother texture than the rest of the wall was painted. That is why I am skimming a couple of walls now. That being said, I do prime thicker than the video shows! I like to do it thick enough to completely hide the drywall behind the mud. Not sure that is necessary, just something I do. I thought that mud was too thin to start with. I may be wrong.
Hey Dominick! Another great video as always. I do have a question though... When your doing drywall mudding, did you say that you don't use drywall paper or mesh until step 3? If I heard that right, could you please explain why you do it that way please and thank you so much. I was taught to do mesh tape on the first step. Also that, mudding is a 3 step process, so seeing and hearing about your 5 step has me a little confused on what's the best way to do it? Please help. Been a fan for a long time. I've watched a lot of your electrical DIY videos too.
There is a recent article in Fine Homebuilding that says another way to achieve a Level 5 finish is to spray the walls with a primer/surfacer instead of the skim coating.
Jed Morton the skim coating you do at level 4 then to achieve a level 5 you either skim again or do the surfacing with the spray method which you do have to spray couple of times. either way works
Thanks for this info! My mudded joints had a lot of air pockets and this method filled in everything great along with smoothing out anything I couldn't really see otherwise. I did it with two people though. My SO had to deal with the roller as I took the mud off. Finished a 23x13x8 room in two hours.
Thanks for the information, it's great! Also I want to thank you for using high quality audio on your video. So many have very poor quality sound. Thanks.
that's interesting. I've had the privilege to work with 5 different drywall company's . they had been in business for 40+ years. myself have been in the business for 15 years. I myself turn over a flawless job with what you call a level 3. the compounds and products used specifically say minimal to no sanding required. the porous texture of the drywall board itself has the same feel as unsanded sheetrock. if it's skimmed right. yeah, level 3.
I have been doing home remodeling for 15 years and never knew about this technique. I can understand how the added labor would result in a super smooth finish. Using a 3/8 or 1/2 inch roller pad using a drywall pva primer and two top coats I have never had any issues with uneven textures. Thanks for the vid
+Ozzstar Under certain lighting conditions, you can see where the mud was applied over the joints vs the field area of the wallboard because the underlying textures are different (paper vs mud). A coat of primer would not change the texture.
Good commercial guys around here will do this in high end tenant improvements but they'll put the final coat on with an airless paint sprayer. Works great.
I spray and back roll a flat primer. Then roll two coats. That's it! Some of you guys are talking about spray, back roll, sand, mud the entire wall, sand with a screen, and bless it with holy water. Geez guys, the way you were taught, isn't always the best way. Open your mind a little.
Thanks for the video, our 2 year old house is worth more than 1.1 M now in BC Canada, the print job was not really match with the price tag, was planing to reprinted myself or hire someone, before I do that just want to figure out what`s the proper way to do it.
This is great! I am working on re-doing my garage right now. The last homeowner did kind of a hack job on the tape/mud, and it all cracked, split, and popped out in many spots. Then they did kind of a weird paint job- only as far as they could reach (no ladder or extension pole???). Anyway, I plan on using a glossier paint out there, this will help mask over the transitions! Keep the videos coming, I love your channel!
Thank you for your videos! I have a wall that is textured, I want one section 5 x 10 smoothed out from floor to ceiling and paint hi-gloss. Is it going to be hard to have the section with clean lines without it being bumpy from texture to smooth?
Must use more mud and float the section you want smooth. The best finish will come from floating the entire wall with minimum 2 coats and then sand to smooth. if you want half of the wall textured, then mask and retexture after floating. This will give a better transition from smooth to texture.
Can I use this trick on old walls? I have two walls in a room which had nails not screws. I have removed nails and replaced it with screws. however the wall looks uneven in few spots
Hey Dom. Just found your channel. You are awesome. I just replaced some drywall in my laundry room after we had a black mold remediation. The guys that removed the old board did a 3 foot high flood cut up from the floor to remove all the mold. Ive replaced the drywall, but the lets just say some of the drywall joints aren't flush. Ive tried to fix it but it comes out the same every time. I think the best option is to do a heavy texture to cover all of the flaws and the uneven joints. The original walls have a light but pretty uneven texture on them. Ive textured walls before, but its been a long time and I don't want to end up wasting a bunch of mud. Any advice or direction you could give would be fantastic. Im going to attempt to start taping the uneven joints today (yikes)…. and I'm a bit scared to even get started. Can you help??
Awesome video Dominick, thanks! You mentioned the porosity of the joint compound and the drywall paper being different after sanding, would the proper primer fix this and eliminate any shadows in commercial lighting? Or is a level 5 finish still needed? Thanks!
I've worked on some of the biggest jobs you can work on and we almost never need to skim coat if you paint correctly you will not get any flashing whether you skim coat or not
Let me ask you...I'm about to begin taping several rooms. I bought quick 45 from the depot. Is it a pain to use? I've always used regular joint compound from a 5gal. Bucket.
Yeah lol. You'll be surprised how fast 45 minutes come. It's not as creamy. It's ok for something like a first coat, this way you can get a second on the same day. But not for third or after. In my eyes. Works really good on patching and stuff like that.
You can save time skim coating way past the width of joints before the final joint sanding. That way you don't ever sand directly on paper. Yeah, if gloss paint, not flat, is used, you have to make sure the whole surface area is uniform or it shows.
Oh my Gosh! This legit changed the way I have looked at patching drywall by 1000 percent. I'm a home DIYer. I recently installed surround sound in my living room by opening the walls up with a flexible 4 foot drill bit and is g Ryobi Drywall patches. I've been stressing over the patched areas flat and uniform again before painting. I cannot thank you enough for making this video and completely changing my way forward! THANKS!
This is most useful when repainting walls that have been around for a while. The skim coat can hide surface flaws that have accumulated over the years, making the surface look brand new.
This man is straight forward and knows his stuff ! Just like it's supposed to be!
Tried this on a d/w repair job. 2 walls in a room. old walls had about 5 coats primer and paint. This technique was quick and really done the job.
next time spray on a product call prep coat. One coat.
Best videos on doing mudding on youtube!!! This is actually very helpful.. Thank you for sharing..
Wow that's slick. I noticed that thing on the bright glossy walls and was doing the regular mud by hand and then sanding the entire wall in order to get that consistency where you can't tell the joints at all.
Thank you Dominic for posting, well worth the time to prep the walls properly.. I have on occasion done exactly that to have that look for the paint finish.
Hey bud, I been checking out your videos, you are very helpful and explain everything very well! thank you for taking the time to do this!
Always something interesting from you Dominick! Thanks. Still reeling from your clearest-ever explanation of a three-way switch.
Thanks Dom.. It's my first doing a DIY drywall job. Good tips for newbie like me. :)
Great Video. Very informative and to the point. Thanks for taking the time Dominic.
Excellent tip! I'm refinishing the entryway in our house. I'll try it!
I use a skim coat on all of my work, but I've never done this before. I mostly resurface old plaster walls and older textured drywall. Mostly uneven substrate. 2 top coats and the same on all new work (level 6?) to match it up. On a good day all I need to finish is a sanding sponge to straighten out a few blemishes.
For 34 years as a professional Painter and Decorator, i bond my drywall with a PVA mix prior to applying paint. Lovely smooth and consistant finish, just my opinion.
What do you mean exactly are you saying to add the pva primer on the drywall then paint over? Or are you mixing your PVA?
@@prominentsinglesinternatio4168 paint with pva
Paint with normal paint
Askmediy: You have THE best drywalling videos. Retired Air Force here hanging out at Lowe's for something to do. Doing drywall at my house (we have a total fixer upper) makes me go mental, but your videos help me get it all sorted out. Wish I was at the pro skill level, I think I would love it then.
I'll be doing this on one of our bathrooms since we over-sanded some of the paper. I think this will solve the issue.
Sylvia Mills thank you for your service
I think this is my most favorite channel and dude on the web at the moment. Cool!
Wow, I guess that is one option/technique. Across the water in The Netherlands, we plaster or finish the wall with Knauf MP75 gypsum, either spray or by hand, and go through a process of polishing and smoothing as it drys. Minimal dust and no sanding required. It's so smooth and straight you can literally see yourself in the wall and MP75 is really hard wearing plaster suitable for commercial buildings or homes. Now at least I understand what a North American guy, living in Amsterdam at the time, was trying to explain to me how he plastered a wall, sanded it smooth and had dust everywhere :)
great job many thanks for these tips,about to start myself on my own walls valuable tips.
you rock, i had no idea how to eliminate those nasty shadows... Thank You so much.... Your Awesome
Thank you for your help and your time! I appreciate your patience 🙏👍
Always my pleasure
I never do level 5. On occasion I will do level 4 when there is a lot of lighting, but the normal standard here on the east coast is tape, then block coat, then skim coat. After prime then point up where needed.
Good Video Dom ..The Principal Issue of Skimming is covered Sealing the surface texture. I use my wide trowel for skimming walls. Yes commercial and residential projects that present an abundant of lighting will show flaws especially on fresh drywall which tends to absorb primer paint differently in various rooms effected by temperature and lighting. I agree this skimming process is a great insurance for sealing the drywall surface supported by a good primer sealer which is a key factor in improving or achieving a texture smooth finish. Thanks
I worked in the Drywall trade for quite a few years and never knew of an architect to spec this. The best tape job will show joints depending on the lighting. The trick is good tape job, quality primer and FLAT paint. Any type of gloss paint will reflect light off the sheetrock paper differently than off the compound.
So very true.
Thank you, this was just the information I needed!!!
Level 1 is eigther a prefill coat or a tape coat. Either way it is the first coat done to the drywall surface.
I used this method over some patches and it works perfect to blend it all in. I just use a paper plate and some mud with a dab of dishsoap and some water to make it very light weight before I roll it on with a small roller.
Thanks for this video,I have had this problem and didn't know how to fix it!
I live in a Brooklyn apartment and my landlords unlicensed workers are doing level negative 1.
Oh boy lol
Ha ha nice
Well it is NYC... good luck
killajakez is it Daniel frijia he a bad landlord
killajakez lol!
Been doing drywall for long time. A crew I worked with sprayed the drywall with water then used squeegees to wipe it down. If you raise the nap on the drywall you can hand spounge it down. Painters dont do their job right for the most part. Yes good primer and sand. Most people dont know it but when you primer you only have so many hours to apply the paint so it bonds. Otherwise its a must sand before paint. You should sand the primer painters.
Great videos Dom as usual. Just throw a thin skim over all the bare drywall after tapped and screw holes filled. Two coats of primer. Game set and match. Next.
I have professionally painted for 20 years evidently this guy has about 20 minutes of painting experience
But yet here you’re watching my video. Kinda strange don’t ya think.
Thanks for the great vid, I am likely to do this on my ceiling but with 'Gyprock® Final Finish Topping Compound'. This should work fine right - as I am using the finishing after I complete the taping and coating? I am new at this but want the perfect end result!
thank you :) you explained it so well and to the point
One of the best.
I’ve been a drywall finisher for 38 years this is a good process to do for an apprentice first off I never use the sanding pole we call that an idiot stick if I’m doing this smooth finish I use sponge on all my joints and lap marks second of all I covered the entire wall with 1/8 of mod with my 18 inch knife this way I can lay off very smooth with you let marks I come back the next day to take a small sanding block fine finish and take out any of the little thick laps but the rest of them are use the sponge on just the swirl in the walls come out
Utterly brilliant solution.
can you use the same process to smooth out rough walls after drywall removal
You gotta love the little tricks that take your finished project to the next level. Super simple!
How do you do this on the already painted textured wall or ceiling?
Very helpful video, first time prepping to skim coat some walls. So... the layer of mud can be really that thin? Thin enough that you can almost see through it?
Holy crap I did drywall taping and finishing for 24 years and finally wised up and became an electrician...I hope your getting paid alot of money for that finish..California we would just put on a light hand texture...but. To each their own...
What's the level 5 compound you use. Can this technique be used in corner beads. Also it would have been good demonstration if u show wall painted to c difference
...this is important information and the presentation is excellent...nice job!
Thank you very much.
Nice tip, thanks!
I simply sprayed RuCoat 10 mils thick with a .516 tip as recommended by the manufacturer, sanded, primed, and painted as usual. Its advisable to back roll if needed, but I didn't see the need. It worked great and it is fast as it can get. 👍
Is this something I would do to get rid of the imperfections i can see on my ceiling? A new ceiling was put up and my spackling skills are intermediate. All of my walls look great but I can see every joint on the ceiling. Clearly I didn't use a wide enough knife and didn't feather it enough. I know I was supposed to use flat paint on ceiling but we used the same paint as used on the walls. A satin pure white. Id like to keep the satin finish look but will consider using flat paint if I have no other choice. Do I need to sand the existing paint or can I spackle right over it? After feathering it properly do I give the ceiling a level 5 finish so I can use the satin paint?
Never tried or saw this before. I will give it a try on next job. Thanks
If you need to it's the way to go.
great demo thank you
This just might solve my problem. I just scrapes off popcorn finish from my br ceiling but it's not 100% consistent now. I plan on doing a stencil design which will require me to use tape on the ceiling (to hold the stencil up). 24 hours after the popcorn has been removed the ceiling is a bit flakey, meaning little bits and piecing will come off when I primed it earlier. I was thinking of a way to get it back nice and solid and also been out the inconsistencies so when I apply the stencil bits and pieces won't be stuck to the tape. I was thinking using my hand sander with 220 grit then I saw this video. what yah think? just sand, prime then paint or apply joint compound before those steps?
what size roller did you use? I have ugly old thick texture, should I skim coat and re-shoot texture for consistency? I want a knockdown texture.
Might not seem credible... but what he’s saying is right, one way to do a complete professional finish. Wall will look good in any light or photo
Moon Pie imo, the skimming gives a mire uniform surface for the primer and paint, especially on very old and damaged drywall. I can show you walls that were patched and primed that you can see every patch. The patches have a much smoother texture than the rest of the wall was painted. That is why I am skimming a couple of walls now.
That being said, I do prime thicker than the video shows!
I like to do it thick enough to completely hide the drywall behind the mud. Not sure that is necessary, just something I do.
I thought that mud was too thin to start with. I may be wrong.
I usually refer to light that highlights drywall setting imperfections or "shadows" as glancing light. Light often comes from Windows or lights etc.
Hey Dominick! Another great video as always. I do have a question though... When your doing drywall mudding, did you say that you don't use drywall paper or mesh until step 3? If I heard that right, could you please explain why you do it that way please and thank you so much. I was taught to do mesh tape on the first step. Also that, mudding is a 3 step process, so seeing and hearing about your 5 step has me a little confused on what's the best way to do it? Please help. Been a fan for a long time. I've watched a lot of your electrical DIY videos too.
I like this guy.
There is a recent article in Fine Homebuilding that says another way to achieve a Level 5 finish is to spray the walls with a primer/surfacer instead of the skim coating.
Jed Morton the skim coating you do at level 4 then to achieve a level 5 you either skim again or do the surfacing with the spray method which you do have to spray couple of times. either way works
Thanks for your advise
Thanks for this info! My mudded joints had a lot of air pockets and this method filled in everything great along with smoothing out anything I couldn't really see otherwise. I did it with two people though. My SO had to deal with the roller as I took the mud off. Finished a 23x13x8 room in two hours.
Awesome deal.
I can't believe I watched this.
Hahahahhahahah
Because UA-cam told you to and you are a follower
Haha me too I've watched a few drywall vids ! FmL
Very helpful Dominic, thank you.
Awesome, glad I could help
Thanks for the information, it's great! Also I want to thank you for using high quality audio on your video. So many have very poor quality sound. Thanks.
that's interesting. I've had the privilege to work with 5 different drywall company's . they had been in business for 40+ years. myself have been in the business for 15 years. I myself turn over a flawless job with what you call a level 3. the compounds and products used specifically say minimal to no sanding required. the porous texture of the drywall board itself has the same feel as unsanded sheetrock. if it's skimmed right. yeah, level 3.
I have been doing home remodeling for 15 years and never knew about this technique. I can understand how the added labor would result in a super smooth finish. Using a 3/8 or 1/2 inch roller pad using a drywall pva primer and two top coats I have never had any issues with uneven textures. Thanks for the vid
I really use what ever nap I have available but yes a thicker nap is better.
+Ozzstar Under certain lighting conditions, you can see where the mud was applied over the joints vs the field area of the wallboard because the underlying textures are different (paper vs mud). A coat of primer would not change the texture.
Good commercial guys around here will do this in high end tenant improvements but they'll put the final coat on with an airless paint sprayer. Works great.
Got a video
I spray and back roll a flat primer. Then roll two coats. That's it! Some of you guys are talking about spray, back roll, sand, mud the entire wall, sand with a screen, and bless it with holy water. Geez guys, the way you were taught, isn't always the best way. Open your mind a little.
Thanks for this
i love dry wall and sheet rock 45 mud its so smooth.
very well explained
Thanks for the video, our 2 year old house is worth more than 1.1 M now in BC Canada, the print job was not really match with the price tag, was planing to reprinted myself or hire someone, before I do that just want to figure out what`s the proper way to do it.
To nice recommendation I do it on all the ceilings that I tape it really does conceal much more than just doing the seams
Awesome video thank you
Thank you very much.
This is great! I am working on re-doing my garage right now. The last homeowner did kind of a hack job on the tape/mud, and it all cracked, split, and popped out in many spots. Then they did kind of a weird paint job- only as far as they could reach (no ladder or extension pole???). Anyway, I plan on using a glossier paint out there, this will help mask over the transitions! Keep the videos coming, I love your channel!
StormLaker1975 4
Thank you for your videos! I have a wall that is textured, I want one section 5 x 10 smoothed out from floor to ceiling and paint hi-gloss. Is it going to be hard to have the section with clean lines without it being bumpy from texture to smooth?
Must use more mud and float the section you want smooth. The best finish will come from floating the entire wall with minimum 2 coats and then sand to smooth. if you want half of the wall textured, then mask and retexture after floating. This will give a better transition from smooth to texture.
Thanks for the info.
Any time!
Good, simple explanation.
Thank you
Can I use this trick on old walls? I have two walls in a room which had nails not screws. I have removed nails and replaced it with screws. however the wall looks uneven in few spots
Great video bro
Cool idea!
is there a recommended type of roller?
Good job sr.!!!
Love your videos and accent
Hey Dom. Just found your channel. You are awesome. I just replaced some drywall in my laundry room after we had a black mold remediation. The guys that removed the old board did a 3 foot high flood cut up from the floor to remove all the mold. Ive replaced the drywall, but the lets just say some of the drywall joints aren't flush. Ive tried to fix it but it comes out the same every time. I think the best option is to do a heavy texture to cover all of the flaws and the uneven joints. The original walls have a light but pretty uneven texture on them. Ive textured walls before, but its been a long time and I don't want to end up wasting a bunch of mud. Any advice or direction you could give would be fantastic. Im going to attempt to start taping the uneven joints today (yikes)…. and I'm a bit scared to even get started. Can you help??
Awesome video Dominick, thanks! You mentioned the porosity of the joint compound and the drywall paper being different after sanding, would the proper primer fix this and eliminate any shadows in commercial lighting? Or is a level 5 finish still needed? Thanks!
+Jonathan Ciccarone Primer of course will help but nothing like a level five finish would.
Dominic thank you that was a new one on me I can’t wait to try it out
Awesome, so glad I could help
Good honest video.
I like that makes sense
Thank you for no music while talking!
Dominic, I love the videos. When will there be new ones posted?
Awesome video
Thank you so so much.
Best thing ever.
I've worked on some of the biggest jobs you can work on and we almost never need to skim coat if you paint correctly you will not get any flashing whether you skim coat or not
Really good explanation
Glad it was helpful!
Have you ever sprayed a primer surfacer rather than using thinned mud? I'm curious how well the primer surfacer sands compared to the mud? Thanks
Good thanks.smart. Learning something.
Brilliant!
Nicely done. Very informative and concise. I never new about level 5.
Thank you very much. Many people never heard of this. Even some pros, until they're on a commercial job and it spect for it
Let me ask you...I'm about to begin taping several rooms. I bought quick 45 from the depot.
Is it a pain to use? I've always used regular joint compound from a 5gal. Bucket.
Yeah lol. You'll be surprised how fast 45 minutes come. It's not as creamy. It's ok for something like a first coat, this way you can get a second on the same day. But not for third or after. In my eyes. Works really good on patching and stuff like that.
Thanks for that, I'm not exactly speedy Gonzalez (can you say that). I'll try it out and see how it goes for me.
LOL Hey I've spent all week making a Q&A site... www.dominickdiy.com if you get a minute check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks man.
Sir how I can make a soundproofing wall in my garage??? Help me,,I need some really works for noises
Thanks for the vid 👍
Nice.
Always my pleasure
great video
You can save time skim coating way past the width of joints before the final joint sanding. That way you don't ever sand directly on paper. Yeah, if gloss paint, not flat, is used, you have to make sure the whole surface area is uniform or it shows.
Thanks Dom,
What kind of roller nap thickness do you use when you roll on the thinned town joint compound skim cost?
Thanks.
You can use any really. But I like a real thick one like 1/2 -3/4"