Hi, I'm The Outboard Medic Repair Service from WILMINGTON, n.c. LOVE TO SEE OTHER GUYS IN LOVE WITH OUTBOARD MOTORS! 34 YEARS AND STILL GOING STRONG! I FEEL LIKE A KID AND HAVEN'T LOST ANY ZEAL OR AMBITION SINCE 1987. BE SAFE!!! CHEERS!!!
Hey Sir. First I love your shirt and the way you keep it all entertaining. Second, this was wonderfully informative and reminded me to get back to the basics. Im currently cleaning up the 1975 15hp Seahorse and this was a great help.
Hi, coil checking is pretty simple and will save you time and unneeded parts replacement. Get the multimeter on the Ohm x 1000 range and get a reading between the terminal feeding the sparkplug and any of the other coil terminals ( aka checking on the secondary winding). If the reading is between 3 and 8, the coil is good. Scoot along and be merry !
Im not getting spark on both cylinders, im getting reading on coils 13-14k I assume im reading it right. Motor ran last time i out it away over 10years ago. Its 74 johnson 9.9. Makes me want to think its something wrong with magneto. I did have a wire chewed by mice thats going to kill switch. I just dont know if im reading OHMs right
@@osilekpl79 I alors stumbled over Amazon coils that read 13K and found them not to be that good on OMC outboards. Most of them were bright green coloured. Those do work fine on those old Lawnboy mowers. My suggestion is to get Sierra coils as they are within specs. Regards !
🌴 I was trying to find someone with knowledge of repairing 1977 Johnson 15 hp outboards and lucky me I found you on you tube , I just bought a 77 -15 horse Johnson it’s been sitting 8 yrs for $275 bucks the guy I bought it from said it ran , went forward and backwards but after running for awhile it would shut off ? 🤔. Don’t know if electrical or fuel ( carb ) I pick up the motor tomorrow 6-2-23 and I’ll try to problem solve it , any ideas 👈🏻
Well, I appreciate you pointing out the fact that using the impact gun to spin the flywheel can over torque the flywheel not, damage the flywheel and the crank...I also appreciate that you hate butt connectors/splices that same way I do. This system will not tolerate poor connections, especially when they get a bit wet. The key to working on this system is to have the "amphenol pin/socket tools", so those pins and sockets can be removed/reinstalled from those rubber connectors. Expensive tools, but necessary for working on all the OMC outboards from the late 70s through the 90s. It is when techs don't have those essential tools that I see horrible splice jobs. Those crazy looking coils are what the actual OEM replacements would look like also. The difference is that BRP would give you a nice primary lead with its push on connector/ampenol pin on the other side. Neither of those coils is OEM. That crazy slide on terminal that was given to you with the top coil is not going to work out, especially in a moist environment, and you surely wouldn't want to accidentally touch it when the engine is running. I appreciate what you were attempting to do with the powerpack wiring, but that stiff loom probably won't work out, and might hit the flywheel. The coil primaries and stop lead bundle harness needs to be routed back down towards the bottom of the cylinder head so it can end up in the clamp that was originally located in the middle of the coils. The clamp arrangement you have up top probably is not going to work out..This is a compact engine, with little room to spare anywhere, the slightest change in wiring routing will probably end up rubbing on the engine cover or getting tangled in the flywheel... Your technique at the end was spot on for troubleshooting, swapping powerpack primary outputs between coils. Unfortunately, you really need the amphenol tools, or at least amphenol jumper leads to make these swaps easily. The amphenol jumper leads are relatively inexpensive and can be purchased from Stevens Instruments in Illinois. This system is actually pretty simple, and easy to troubleshoot. That extra ground lead on top of the coil is for the stop switch. The stop switch grounds out the pack output, and it should always be removed from the system first when troubleshooting. The best troubleshooting technique for this system is basic tests. Stop switch elimination, grounds using the low scale on the ohm meter, simple resistance readings for the coils, charge and sensor coils. And finally, never forget to check those amphenol connections. That is a nice old 15hp, must be from the fresh water....D
This was extremely helpful! I just bought a 15 evinrude with the same motor but it has no spark. I had a spare power head with the coils and power pack. I found it was the charge coil. Thank you for helping me with this!
@@fullyhooked1 A charge coil failure is very rare on these engines, unless it got physically damaged from rubbing on the flywheel, or the wiring got damaged from chafing or melted from an overheat...But, it does happen. The charge coil is easy to check with a basic ohm meter, I'm glad you were able to solve the problem... Simple tests are the best with this system, and usually find the problem....D
@@northwestlife_9 Will what work? I only know the OMC part numbers for the tools, don't know the actual amphenol "size" for them...There are three tools, the pin extractor, the socket extractor and the reinstallation tool that is used to reinstall both sockets and pins back into the rubber connectors....
Hello I have a 1986 15hp evinrude electric start,I took the power head off to replace the water tube grommet’s,I ended up taking of the power pack and coils, I replaced everything back together and now I have no spark in both cylinder just seeing if u can give me some pointers to look at,I will appreciate it,Thanks.
Three days ago I worked on a friends evinrude that wasn't getting spark to two of the four cylinders and like so many other boat owners he wanted to replace the coil on the two dead cylinders. I looked at the engine and made sure they were making a good contact by twisting the spark plug wire at the connection of the coil. As usual it fired right up with no problem. People replace parts that are good by not checking the connections. I have often wondered how many good coils have been replaced due to not checking the contact of their wires?
Habe mir jetzt neue cdi bestellt. Zündplatte ist ok kommt per ohm Messung was an. Neue Kerzen kommen auch noch rein. Habe einen Evinrude 15ps bj 82 soll er sein. Klasse Video von ihnen. Man gut es gibt. Übersetzung in Deutsch. 😊
Found this looking. My old 28 is missing on the bottom cylinder. I have spark just not all the time. Cleaned and regapped points. Same situation. Im not sure if the points are sticking. If the coil is breaking down or if there is too much gap to the flywheel. It ran good 10 years ago prior to storage. I didnt see any mice eaten wires. Checked the plug wire. Doesnt look like its bad anywhere. Wiggled it around. I hate to just throw parts at it. Coils look fine no cracks
Got question about 15 hp 74 Johnson Cranks easy ideas fine did carb rebuild replaced fuel pump and gasket all fuel likes Runs fine 1/2 throttle get pass that and misses bad have clear line from fuel pump to carb keep seeing air bubbles
What if I don’t have fire to either plugs but was running 5 months ago. Would you go straight to the power pack or could it be a coincidence that both coils went out?
I was thinking to myself when you cut the wire, leave at least an inch on the coil in case it really isn't bad you can use it somewhere else in the future.
Question for you. I recently did a total rebuild on my Johnson seahorse 35. Bearings seals pistons everything. When I’m anywhere between idle and full throttle, I can feel the throttle in my hand moving back and forth and the rpm’s aren’t stable at the same time. It runs great at idle and full throttle. New oem fuel pump. New oem coils. New oem ignition pack. Any idea what could cause that?
Hi, I'm The Outboard Medic Repair Service from WILMINGTON, n.c. LOVE TO SEE OTHER GUYS IN LOVE WITH OUTBOARD MOTORS! 34 YEARS AND STILL GOING STRONG! I FEEL LIKE A KID AND HAVEN'T LOST ANY ZEAL OR AMBITION SINCE 1987. BE SAFE!!! CHEERS!!!
It is fun for sure, thanks for watching and commenting
Hey Sir. First I love your shirt and the way you keep it all entertaining. Second, this was wonderfully informative and reminded me to get back to the basics. Im currently cleaning up the 1975 15hp Seahorse and this was a great help.
I appreciate that! thanks for watching
1978 Johnson 15 hp.Hooked up batt. the wrong way.What did i blow?Thanks!
Hi, coil checking is pretty simple and will save you time and unneeded parts replacement. Get the multimeter on the Ohm x 1000 range and get a reading between the terminal feeding the sparkplug and any of the other coil terminals ( aka checking on the secondary winding). If the reading is between 3 and 8, the coil is good. Scoot along and be merry !
Im not getting spark on both cylinders, im getting reading on coils 13-14k I assume im reading it right. Motor ran last time i out it away over 10years ago. Its 74 johnson 9.9. Makes me want to think its something wrong with magneto. I did have a wire chewed by mice thats going to kill switch. I just dont know if im reading OHMs right
@@osilekpl79 I alors stumbled over Amazon coils that read 13K and found them not to be that good on OMC outboards. Most of them were bright green coloured. Those do work fine on those old Lawnboy mowers. My suggestion is to get Sierra coils as they are within specs. Regards !
🌴 I was trying to find someone with knowledge of repairing 1977 Johnson 15 hp outboards and lucky me I found you on you tube , I just bought a 77 -15 horse Johnson it’s been sitting 8 yrs for $275 bucks the guy I bought it from said it ran , went forward and backwards but after running for awhile it would shut off ? 🤔. Don’t know if electrical or fuel ( carb ) I pick up the motor tomorrow 6-2-23 and I’ll try to problem solve it , any ideas 👈🏻
Well, I appreciate you pointing out the fact that using the impact gun to spin the flywheel can over torque the flywheel not, damage the flywheel and the crank...I also appreciate that you hate butt connectors/splices that same way I do. This system will not tolerate poor connections, especially when they get a bit wet.
The key to working on this system is to have the "amphenol pin/socket tools", so those pins and sockets can be removed/reinstalled from those rubber connectors. Expensive tools, but necessary for working on all the OMC outboards from the late 70s through the 90s. It is when techs don't have those essential tools that I see horrible splice jobs. Those crazy looking coils are what the actual OEM replacements would look like also. The difference is that BRP would give you a nice primary lead with its push on connector/ampenol pin on the other side. Neither of those coils is OEM. That crazy slide on terminal that was given to you with the top coil is not going to work out, especially in a moist environment, and you surely wouldn't want to accidentally touch it when the engine is running.
I appreciate what you were attempting to do with the powerpack wiring, but that stiff loom probably won't work out, and might hit the flywheel. The coil primaries and stop lead bundle harness needs to be routed back down towards the bottom of the cylinder head so it can end up in the clamp that was originally located in the middle of the coils. The clamp arrangement you have up top probably is not going to work out..This is a compact engine, with little room to spare anywhere, the slightest change in wiring routing will probably end up rubbing on the engine cover or getting tangled in the flywheel...
Your technique at the end was spot on for troubleshooting, swapping powerpack primary outputs between coils. Unfortunately, you really need the amphenol tools, or at least amphenol jumper leads to make these swaps easily. The amphenol jumper leads are relatively inexpensive and can be purchased from Stevens Instruments in Illinois.
This system is actually pretty simple, and easy to troubleshoot. That extra ground lead on top of the coil is for the stop switch. The stop switch grounds out the pack output, and it should always be removed from the system first when troubleshooting. The best troubleshooting technique for this system is basic tests. Stop switch elimination, grounds using the low scale on the ohm meter, simple resistance readings for the coils, charge and sensor coils. And finally, never forget to check those amphenol connections.
That is a nice old 15hp, must be from the fresh water....D
This was extremely helpful! I just bought a 15 evinrude with the same motor but it has no spark. I had a spare power head with the coils and power pack. I found it was the charge coil. Thank you for helping me with this!
@@fullyhooked1 A charge coil failure is very rare on these engines, unless it got physically damaged from rubbing on the flywheel, or the wiring got damaged from chafing or melted from an overheat...But, it does happen. The charge coil is easy to check with a basic ohm meter, I'm glad you were able to solve the problem... Simple tests are the best with this system, and usually find the problem....D
what size amphenol insertion/extraction tool do I need? Will this work?
@@northwestlife_9 Will what work? I only know the OMC part numbers for the tools, don't know the actual amphenol "size" for them...There are three tools, the pin extractor, the socket extractor and the reinstallation tool that is used to reinstall both sockets and pins back into the rubber connectors....
@@fleetwin1 the link was removed. Amphenol Industrial 10-538988-020
Mfr. Part #: 10-538988-020
Right on nice job got the old gurl running sweet
Thanks 👍
Great videos watched part 1 and 2. I have a 15 hp Johnson, where r u ordering your parts from so i can work on mine????
Hello I have a 1986 15hp evinrude electric start,I took the power head off to replace the water tube grommet’s,I ended up taking of the power pack and coils, I replaced everything back together and now I have no spark in both cylinder just seeing if u can give me some pointers to look at,I will appreciate it,Thanks.
Hi , I just put a new water pump in the 15 hp it works but forgot the to put the little 0 - ring on top of shaft 🥺😖
It happens, put one on it and run it.
Three days ago I worked on a friends evinrude that wasn't getting spark to two of the four cylinders and like so many other boat owners he wanted to replace the coil on the two dead cylinders. I looked at the engine and made sure they were making a good contact by twisting the spark plug wire at the connection of the coil. As usual it fired right up with no problem. People replace parts that are good by not checking the connections. I have often wondered how many good coils have been replaced due to not checking the contact of their wires?
probably quite a few
Good video and explanations.If you would have looked at parts manual you could of seen lack of points but it is fun exploring.
Very informative, keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do!
Habe mir jetzt neue cdi bestellt.
Zündplatte ist ok kommt per ohm Messung was an.
Neue Kerzen kommen auch noch rein.
Habe einen Evinrude 15ps bj 82 soll er sein.
Klasse Video von ihnen.
Man gut es gibt. Übersetzung in Deutsch. 😊
Great video once again....you should be in movies!!! Ha ha ha Keep up the good work!
Thank you
Found this looking. My old 28 is missing on the bottom cylinder. I have spark just not all the time. Cleaned and regapped points. Same situation. Im not sure if the points are sticking. If the coil is breaking down or if there is too much gap to the flywheel. It ran good 10 years ago prior to storage. I didnt see any mice eaten wires. Checked the plug wire. Doesnt look like its bad anywhere. Wiggled it around. I hate to just throw parts at it. Coils look fine no cracks
Thanks for watching. Not sure if you were asking a question
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Looking for ideas on what it could be
Always check the points. It seems like it's always the points for any engine that has them.
Got question about 15 hp 74 Johnson
Cranks easy ideas fine did carb rebuild replaced fuel pump and gasket all fuel likes
Runs fine 1/2 throttle get pass that and misses bad
have clear line from fuel pump to carb keep seeing air bubbles
hello from the sunny ozarks!! been enjoying your informative and fun videos. wheres home base
Eastern Iowa
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina youre not that far away i boat alot on the missippi and i usually go up to muscatine and back to grafton ill.
Great video. Think that coil you used will fit / work on a Johnson 25 hp? If so what was it?
Easy enough to look up your parts on marineengine.com and find out
Should your fuel pump squirter out the side dumm??? I know changing fuel pump on a 75 15 horse
What if I don’t have fire to either plugs but was running 5 months ago. Would you go straight to the power pack or could it be a coincidence that both coils went out?
most likely power pack if your plugs are good.
How much for the 1977 Johnson?
$500
RMD Creations where are you located I would half to come pick it up? Or shipping to Pensacola?
Is the new spark plug wire, solid core or fiber core? When I redid my 2004 Johnson 15, I had to use solid core spark plug wire.
I used the old wire, solid core
Coil wire came from Evinrude dealer ( it comes with the coil new from dealer)
What website do you get these parts from?
marineengine.com
Hi I have a Sears 15 hp game fisher that needs coil packs are the coil packs the same
I honestly don't know anything about the Sears motors.
Great video
Great video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
I was thinking to myself when you cut the wire, leave at least an inch on the coil in case it really isn't bad you can use it somewhere else in the future.
Good thoughts. Thanks for watching and commenting
Question for you. I recently did a total rebuild on my Johnson seahorse 35. Bearings seals pistons everything. When I’m anywhere between idle and full throttle, I can feel the throttle in my hand moving back and forth and the rpm’s aren’t stable at the same time. It runs great at idle and full throttle. New oem fuel pump. New oem coils. New oem ignition pack. Any idea what could cause that?
Also did a full carb kit as well
Really hard to say. Hard to diagnose on symptoms. Could be a few minor things, hard to judge without being there.
Why has it got 3 coils when it’s a two cylinder???
It only has two ignition coils and one pick up coil
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Ok cheers
Need ohm meter to check it, that way not spending money for good parts
You could have checked spark with the noid light and
don't have a noid light but I will be researching one
We dont universal of factory or any thing welcome to africa but nice job thnx for the informations
Welcome aboard Africa.
Not changing both coils is like replacing one tire at a time on your car .not the best way also you got an emergency coil
Chris
or maybe just changing one spark plug at a time LOL, thanks for watching.
And switch your coil trigger wires
I did switch the trigger wire but it was after I purchased a new coil, lesson learned.
Harbor freight is where I spark checker light less than 10 bucks l use it even on my car
I have a spark checker. I use it occasionally.
Yes I have one of these testers and I have tried it at night to see if the spark is faint also. No spark
My doctor gave me a blue pill when my Johnson lost it's spark
I just pull the rope till it's fixed
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina :) Thanks for the laugh
should of changed both coils
Typical replace and hope Must be possible to check the CD box without replacing coil
It's a simple system. ohm out the coils. coils good, power pack bad. Easy peasy
why did you not switch coils to See if you had a bad one?
why am I watching your video if you don't know this?
because you like learning with me
What's with all the Biden commercials weirdo
zahn klyberg I have no control over the commercials