Why Climbers Trust Rubber With Their Lives
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- Опубліковано 30 січ 2024
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Why is rubber so “sticky”? Why does rubber consistently have one of the highest coefficients of friction? What allows rock climbers to literally let their lives depend on the friction provided by climbing shoes? Like the conundrum of why water is wet, it turns out this question is more complicated than you think. Noted Science Zaddy Kyle Hill explains.
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A broken rubber brought me into this world, i'm not gonna let it take me out of it
I've worked power lines for the last 26 years and I got a sticker on my hardhat that has a pair of rubber gloves and says a hole in a rubber brought you into this world and a hole in one will take you out.
Perfect joke for this video
Funniest shi ive seen today
This made me laugh way harder than it should have.
@@Essex121514 - Same, my inner "13 year old boy" snorted out loud...
Why do you think Formula 1 teams fight so hard to keep tire warmers in the sport? Because the tires are grippier when they can deform. They also heat the tire rubber from the INSIDE with the brake temperature to prepare the tires, if you heat only the surface with too many burnouts and sliding and locking up the brakes you ruin the tires.
In winter I sit on my climbing shoes to warm them up before I use them lol
It’s not even exactly for the reason you may think. It’s not necessary a performance advantage because all the teams are using them and the same tyres. The actual benefit to the teams is being able to gather more data in practice, it’s opening the possibilities of different tyre strategies and being able to change their strategies last minute.
@@biosparkles9442 my gym has one little patch of that weird grade school rough carpet that I rub my shoes on. I don't know if it really works but I'm just superstitious enough to do it every time
That's why I always do a burnout in the parking lot before going to work.
My neighbors hate me.
"My tires are gone, Bono"
The rubber on my climbing shoes (La Sportiva Genius) is meant to be similar to aircraft tyres, its amazing stuff you can rub the tips of the toes together and they'll stick to each other due to the rubber heating up due to the friction
La Sportiva make really good climbing shoes. One of mine is somewhere on a peak called Pyramid in the Drakensberg - I got to the top with them, switched to my hiking shoes for the descent and only had 1 when I got down. They clearly don't grip well inside a pack 😛
I had the sportiva cobra, they were really good but they worn out so quick 😢
I wear a lot of Evolv. But only because I live real close to their HQ, and I can get samples all the time.
Same with Mad Rocks.
However there’s no doubt La Sportiva is the best.
I usually bring 4-5 different pairs on a trip…just in case…but end up wearing my TC Pros the whole time.
@@sendthis9480 Did you try the scarpa instinct ? They are good and very resistant but less flexible. Although I do mainly gym climbing (bouldering) and I don't know if they are the best for outdoor lead climbing
I get blue feet from climbing...
can you guess which shoe I wear!?
“This world is pain so why not wear a funny tshirt about it?” Is a hard ass bar
If they don’t trust it then they’ll have to carry children around the rest of their climbing career
God level comment
Took me a good half a second to realize what you meant. Needless to say I was not disappointed with this comment.
@@aftershock1445 Cant be disappointed if you dont have kids, amirite?
You time traveling plagiarist.
It took me way to long to get this joke, I’m disappointed in myself
Everyone who puts themselves in a high-speed death box (also known as a "car") trusts rubber with their lives
does anyone have a choice?
@@stellviahohenheimof course they do, they can choose rubber tires, or death. my grandma drove for weeks before realizing her back right tire went flat 3000 miles ago and ground off nearly an inch of diameter off the rim
Sometimes it’s more about trusting yourself than the rubber. I don’t trust the ice to not make my car drift. I, however, trust myself to prevent it from hitting the ditch without killing anyone but myself.
@@stellviahohenheim You could move to a city with an actual public transit system, but even then other people's death boxes are a threat so no not really
I prefer less deadly tubes with metal wheels. But it's still friction that keeps them save.
"My shoes have no grip today" - an excuse every climber has used at some point while having an off day.
Sounds like they had cold feet.
I have indeed said this. Got new shoes now :D
I always blame gravity for being stronger than on other days.
Much better sponsor then better help, so happy to see cool shirts on Kyle Hills channel
Other things to consider: molecular force interactions, suction when little to no air is between the surfaces, size difference of the peak and valleys of both surfaces - bigger differences, less friction, 'even' differences might even catch like velcro.
Ooh! Like the way you can wring together gauge blocks!
I imagine crystalline structure helps a lot as well, especially with same material. At least if they can get close enough together for it to matter. Like lego blocks sticking together because they have a repeating structure.
This does make intuitive sense. With bad surface mating the bonding forces would be rather small as the real surface contact area is miniscule and the friction is governed by the effects of microploughing and microcracking, surfaces scratch and softer material plastically deforms. Some energy is dissipated to microstructural changes while most of the energy is dissipated as heat . With perfect mating the surfaces are subjected to much higher bonding forces.
My understanding is that the absolute limit for friction force is governed by the shear strenght of the "softer" material i.e. surface asperities "cut" the softer material upon reaching critical stress concentration. By that point the friction is not dependant on the other material but rather on the "apparent viscocity" of the "softer" material. It would be as if the material was sliding or slipping on a thin film made of the same material. With the crystalline material the shear strength is a lot lower than UTS due to preferred slipping directions of atomic planes. And because the maximum shear force is at an degree angle to the sliding motion, there wouldn't be a "clean cut" but rather the sliding would create new surface asperities.
molecular force interactions could be also be magnetism
@@wiltsuFIN you're not thinking of things like velcro or plant burs
Well.
This was basically a long discussion on why we in the colder parts of the globe have winter tyres on winter, and why in summer they not only deteriorate faster, but also decrease grip!
Shit I never thought about it that people more to the south (or nord) dont need winter tyres.
Yeah we have to get an extra set of winter tires up here, they are made from a softer, more grippy rubber. They deteriorate faster, especially the warmer they are so that's why we change back in the spring.
And by "deteriorate", it's not just that the treads wear down it's also that if they overheat from a long drive in a hot summer road, it actually further vulcanizes the rubber, making them harder and so not stick to ice as well! You can have worn out winter tires with loads of tread left.
Winter tires have more grip in the summer too, they just break down waaaay faster.
There is more to it. Winter Tires have a different profile, to get more grip in snow and mud. The reduced surface area means that the tires actually have less friction than summer tires on dry, or even wet roads. (Coloumb friction isn't accurate for rubber)
If you want something with incredibly low friction to perform experiments with, pick up some new Dragonshield card sleeves. They're one of the most slippery things in the world
Niche, but i see you 😂
Until you let the one friend play with them.
Only until you draw 7, then they form a metallic bond.
Just wait until you try and draw from a deck sleeved in Sultans
The way you did that little turn and said “it’s my show I’ll climb if I want to” gave me huge astarion from BG3 vibes 😂
YO COOL SHIRTZ SPONSORING KYLE HILL? THAT'S AWESOME
I always thought than the reason glass or sheet metal was so "sticky" to other smooth surfaces had more to do with suction (i.e., a vacuum formed between the two surfaces, since they lay flat against one another and leave no room for air) than friction.
I took physics in my senior year of highschool (11 years ago), and I still remembered the coefficient of friction and thought of it right before Kyle said it.
I just know falling too fast is never a good thing.
Congrats!
I remember me and my friends joking about the name of the coefficients, Mu.
@@Master_Yoda1990Falling is fine, it's the stopping fast that gets you
@@Canzandridas Not necessarily true, you can die from just the fall.
2:20 when you go from an astronomy video to a racing video and can't stop comparing everything with lightspeed
Absolutely love your style of videos, both these and the video essays. These ones have a great mix of comedy, wit and fact, and the essays are so informative and you get the tone so perfectly to match the subject. Good job dude!
The first 5 seconds described my graduation perfectly 💀
Love the video Kyle, great comment as always. I have cited some of your videos in academic work because it is so detailed and easily digested for the audience. We need more creators like you!
i hope this video will get a lot of *traction*
i seriously love your videos!
That documentary is fantastic, sometimes I’ll watch it instead of a movie 😂. It’s called Free Solo for those wondering
And he is not right in the head. Bravo for pulling it off. But man I felt bad for those who love him.
@@NandR some researchers did an MRI on Alex Honnold (the free solo guy) and his brain IS atypical, with abnormal fear responses. So you're not wrong
@@used2venom yep. Needs a high amount of stimulation to feel excitement.
"it's my show, I'll climb if I want to", the pivot after that line cracked me up.
Other UA-camrs should take note: this is how you celebrate a good song.
Just finished bouldering at the gym. I love when you bring climbing into these science topics! Keep it up
Kyle you are amazing! Thank you so much for the video 💫
Love from Turkey, İstanbul!
I think Kyle would enjoy looking into the science going on behind the scenes in racing, F1 experiencing a big boom in popularity rn too helps the availability of some info and demonstrations done by the teams
I love the go board. I am playing as I listen to your videos.
Always nice to watch a good science friction video!
You have moved yourself into one of my top people I want to climb with. Heck yeah, great episode!
Can you please go into more detail about the glass on glass friction?
Super interesting! Great stuff. Friction and bouncing have always been fascinating to me
Funnily enough, I just had a lecture on rubber in the context of friction physics (for engineers, not physicists) yesterday. Main take-away from that lecture is that visco-elastic materials are absolutely terrible to do research on, because the properties change based on just about anything. Temperature, velocity, force, speed of the experiment, vulcanization time for the rubber, material composition, random chance. Just about anything you can think of.
Also for engineering applications the maths from the paper Kyle showed can be simplified significantly to be "mostly" just dependent on the relative speed of the materials. At very very low speeds this makes rubber essentially "frictionless" in its behaviour (compared to normal rubber friction; think the coefficient was somewhere around 0.1 compared to the normal coefficient of 1). THAT friction is the coefficient due to microscopic true contact (complex elasticity modulus). The other part of the friction at higher speeds is due to internal energy losses due to deformation (as explained in the video).
For anyone interested: In the lecture my prof derived the losses due to deformation from the fact that a characteristic frequency can be defined by relative velocity between the bodies divided by the roughness of those bodies (m/s/m = 1/s). The elasticity modulus is a variable directly dependent on that frequency, and at a higher frequency (aka higher velocity) the loss modulus (contact friction) becomes "less tiny" compared to the storage modulus, so the material doesn't behave like a fully elastic material anymore (more like a true liquid) and friction increases.
Also sidenote: the loss modulus divided by the absolute value of the storage modulus is the normal modulus of elasticity that engineers use. Just in this absolutely cursed case, the loss modulus is complex.
Edit: This comment would have looked better in latex...
That proposal intuits well with the fact that a rubber layer affixed to a dowel of some other material will not have nearly as much friction on something as a similar shaped dowel object that is solid rubber or thicker in rubber. Just compare the use of a pencil eraser between a new thick one vs one that is about to run out.
Possibly interesting implication for climbing shoes. They are wanted tight and close to the foot for obvious reasons, with an understandable desire for thin material. But maybe beefing up the rubber soles in strategic ways would enhance the performance.
I would have figured that you would have mentioned Van der Walls effect....
Love how the arrows look backwards early in the video unless you're thinking actively
Yes!!! More climbing content please!
Been so long without thinking about the basilisk and it comes back again.
Climbing and Go - two of my favourite things!
had no idea you were into climbing! looking forward to this
He already has plenty of content about climbing, actually, you should check it out.
Kyle is Bill Nye level of quality for modern science education. Thank you for everything you do.
Great shoe selection Kyle, solution is one of my all time favorite shoes!
Musician, film maker, and now UA-cam science channel. Rob Zombie really can do it all
Felt a little friction between Aria and Kyle.
The science of rubber compounds and how rhey work is fascinating. Would love to see a more in depth video on this. Even from the prospective of climbing shoes. Most of my knowledge of rubber compounds comes from car tires.
Hell Yeah Kyle!! Rock-climbing science videos!
My like is for the honesty about your hair care routine. F*ing FINALLY! Now all I need is a devil with low expectations.
As a fellow longhair I have asked Kyle across multiple platforms over many years now for an insight into his routine with no joy. His hair is very similar to mine so it would be incredibly interesting.
This episode was fire! Great jokes! As a climber and science teacher, love it!
What a surprise video for Kyle to drop while I’m otw to the bouldering gym 😂❤
Might be a good time to discuss gage blocks
I am pretty sure that people in the racing world already had a pretty good understanding between the temperature and friction (or grip).
For example, in Formula One, the tyre compounds are designed and pre-designated to a given Track by Pirelli, such that the tyres exhibit certain wear and grip behaviors. Like the Wet Tyres for example aren't just designed with an actual tread to move water away and a larger diameter to raise the floor away from standing water, but also the softest compound that they can design, to allow the tyre optimal grip at incredibly low internal temperatures.
Its sad that we almost never get to see the full wet compounds get used anymore ...
Almost like the video was purposely misleading for clicks... GASP 🙄
@@Mezuzah87 There is a difference between knowing what is happening, and why it happens. the racing community can know how the grip is affected by the track or temperature, without needing to know why it happens.
Speaking of climbing, what does it mean that I get severe vertigo when watching climbers / heights, but when I'm climbing, or parachuting, or bungee jumping, rapelling, etc.. I don't get vertigo at all even if I look down?
Why you have too call out my parents like that! Lol 😢 love you Kyle!
best advertisement segment i’ve seen on youtube
Never in my wildest dreams did I ever think that Kyle Hill would be somehow linked to Chas and Max! Im so here for the CoolShirtz sponsorship though, keep up the good work mate. Love your vids!
Always can count on Kyle to fill me up with great content and pop culture references
ive been a tree climber hear in rhode island and we use lots of rope and friction devises all our knots also all use friction. awesome video bud.
i actually live in rhode island and i wanna start rock climbing. any tips?
Get good equipment and stick to safety guidelines
Love the vid Kyle.
As an Aussie I LOVED the sign off line before the apology. 🙌🏼🤣🇦🇺
I'm glad I now know the static friction of bone lubricated by synovial fluid. That's useful to know.
1:23 random use of a goban.
Go board😂
Good example of a surface to be curious about.
Hell yeah! Nice guitar. I dont have an electric and i would love one as a new learner lol
1:24 nice go board!
Love the jokes about Alex Honnold being crazy
Why'd you have to lead with that Kyle? The divorced parents at graduation thing was way too relatable! hehe😅
The tilting surface test is also how we test the friction abilities of lizards' feet, fun fact
Kyle and cool shirts colab was not on my bingo card
I just want to know exactly what happens when you break traction, like when you're driving how much energy are you losing to sliding against the ground, like when you slip on ice while walking it feels like you lose no energy while your foot slides over a foot and it feels like you speed up rather than slow down before you land on your back.
Great topic 👍
Use to love your cable satellite tv show would sit there after school watching you scribble with your markers
5:48
I've never, ever heard of this.
Using gauge blocks to show the process of wringing them together would be a good visualization/experiment for this vid.
And now friction coefficients make sense. Thanks Kyle!
Hey Kyle, what song from bensound do you use for the majority of the video? I really love the track and haven't been able to figure out which it is that you use.
That Creed song at the end was 🔥
I have the exact same standard metric inclined plane! Sometimes I play Go on it.
That first line hits so hard. I’m graduating in a couple months and have family from my mom’s side coming up and my dad + step mom are coming. Will they sit in the same section??? 😅
Gotta love a synthesis of two of my biggest interests, materials science and rock climbing
Your sponsor reminds me of Yilong Ma saying Very Cool.... Verry Cooool.
Kyle you're way too funny. Thanks for your content I love it
Cool shirtz seem a bit more ethical. Good job
This is exactly the case in motorsports. Cold tires have less grip than nice warmed up tires. But, overheated tires are no good either
As a racing driver, where our tires are our life, the science of this is fascinating
Kyle! I NEEEEED that Rocko shirt!!!!!!!
Idea for shoe stores: include a small climbing wall. You're welcome.
Wow. This topic will stick to my mind.
more athletic science please!
Finally I can learn why my phone's coefficient of friction goes from like 6.5 to 0.3 every time it's over a hard surface.
Damn I was scared for Alex Honnold for a second seeing that thumbnail.
Yo that opening kinda wild lol
Was just thinking about friction today when I found some old timey glass syringes that slide so smooth glass on glass but yet liquid doesn't escape. No rubber seals or anything but glass.
They form a hydraulic bearing. Glass syringes can literally rotate with friction coefficients in the fractional percent range even though the glass on glass friction is much higher than that.
So, why are two sheets of glass so frictional? Is it because glass is a good thermal insulator? Or does a smooth surface against another smooth surface just have more points of contact along its surface area?
Purely guessing, I think it might be how little air fits between them. I'm thinking of the metal rectangles meant to measure things, the ones machined so precisely and smoothly they stick together. Kyle also mentions cold welding in space, same idea. That does make me curious how much friction glass sheets would have in a vacuum.
Very, very smooth surfaces (like glass or machined and ground metal) are able to get into such close contact over a wide area that intermolecular forces start to be noticeable on a large scale. Its basically the same as a gecko's foot, the molecules between those surfaces are so close together that they can attract each other due to Van der Waals forces.
Checked out the store, not alot in 3xl + 😢
What i mean is i can count those options i have on 2 hands
Electron bonds are a hell of an attraction
Weirdly enough, I went for a climb today, this showed up in my recs, and then I was able to test the friction of my Red Chilli Spirits on my own Go board.. Interesting times we live in
can you also explain gekko friction
i remember on a podcast a formula drift driver (i dont remember exactly who, but i do remember it was a very experienced one) said that they looked at lateral g-forces, tire ratings, etc on both the drift cars and top level leMans prototype cars, and that the drift cars were far exceeding the forces of the prototype cars and the drift cars tires still keep traction doing far beyond what the tires are rated for. i think that the drivers idea was that the contact patch itself was getting so hot that it briefly rockets itself into eviscerated rubber and that quantam shenanigans are involved, but i wonder if its because the drift cars keep the tires so much hotter for a more consistent period of time
You have many videos on the topic of nuclear, radioactivity, etc and might be able to help. Fukishima was built by GE I believe. They install 4 huge backup water pumps so if they lose power, the water will keep flowing to cool the reaction so it doesn't melt down. One pump is being rebuilt, one is on standby, one is running and I don't remember the status of the 4th. Those pumps are in the basement level...of power plants that are always built on the shore of bodies of water. The tsunami hit fukishima and flooded the 4 diesel pumps in the basement shutting them down, and the rest is horrible deadly history. If they had just one diesel backup pump on the roof, nobody outside of Japan would've ever heard the name fukishima because it never would've blown up. One pump on the roof is all it takes to prevent another nuclear disaster. You've got so many subscribers.... I pray you see this and are able to get people motivated to push this simple project along so we don't have another very preventable environmental disaster. Backup water pumps above ground at nuclear power plants in areas of the world prone to tsunamis. Thank you:)
FINALLY MY FAVORITE THOR KNOCK OFF IS BACK!
That thing that was being done that you could pay Kyle to do....Made my hands sweat thinking about it LOL
Alex Honnold is a damned crazy man, I felt sick just watching him do that solo climb in the documentary on my computer monitor. Literally a few milimetres of rubber between him and a 1000 foot fall...
2:21 was that will stamper?