Boat Repair - Cool Fuel Module Leak test and install
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- After our attempted sea trial of our 2006 Meridian 341 with 6.2 Mercruiser Mx horizon engines failed, we ripped out the leaking fitting from the Cool Fuel Module and ordered new hoses and fittings. The new parts arrived and we test fit the hoses, leak test the unit, install back in the boat and test run the engine.
Parts link
www.mercruiser...
Hoo rah! is right. Great job! I was so pleased that you were able to get those nylon plugs waterproof. You saved a great deal of money both materials and labor being able to reuse the housing. The Admiral should give you a... ahem...
a promotion.. yeah, that's it, a promotion for saving so much of the fleet operations budget. Note that the the port engine has different but almost equal degree of difficulty with the gangway and waste tank in the way.
One more helpful note: I had a problem develop where my port engine would cut out intermittently and increasingly during the season after long sessions of running fine, Narrowed it down to fuel starvation. First replaced the fuel pump relay because eventually it was occasionally having problems starting and in those instances I could not hear the low pressure fuel pump prime the CFM. (You really don't need to manually prime the filter housing.) Not solved. Replaced regulator,, not solved, then the low and high pressure fuel pumps with good after market (non OEM). Not solved. Good mechanics could not find the problem but we all figured it must be electrical connection problem. Figured then that I must have a bad connection somewhere in the harness. Tested the voltage going to the CFM and it was always good. Drove me crazy for two months. So one Saturday with the engine running I went wire by wire moving and bending them to see if the engine would die due to a fragmented wire in a casing. I couldn't cause the cut out. So I decided I would need to disconnect the electric feed to the CFM and work on it some more, I went to disconnect the two wire feed to the CFM, grabbed the two ends of the plug and it burned my fingertips... It looked perfectly well on the outside and also on the inside when looked into it. But hidden inside and behind the female end of the red wire connection there was corrosion. Apparently during engine runs, resistance would build up, heat the connection and the connection would not send enough voltage to the fuel pumps causing them to surge and die. I bypassed the red wire through a new simple waterproof plug and problem was solved. So... should you ever have a surge and die problem check that plug that you now have disconnected and connected a few times recently. It is in a good location to get wet from various fluids, coolant, raw water if the water pump is starting to go, etc.
Looking forward to seeing your post-Ian sea trial.
I saw that the big blue hull boat in your neighborhood has been rescued. Things must be getting better round your area.
A good place for some of your repair videos would be at the Meridian Owners Forum.
Have a great weekend.
Scott
Thanks Scott. Electrical problems are the worst. I’ll be chasing down a low WOT rpm issue on my port motor now as you’ll see in next video. It crept up on me during the ICW trip. Testing into that port CFM will be fun! That’s for another video. Geesh these boats give me lots of fun content. Lol.
I’ll be sure to tell the misses about the ahem promotion. Lmao.
I am very impressed with your attitude of diving in to fix issues!! You learn your systems AND save a ton of money!! Good on ya, mate!! Your follower from Naples❤
The joys of boat ownership
Great job! Always hard maneuvering tight spaces around engines. You can definitely moonlight as boat mechanic.
Hopefully that did the trick! Can't wait for the Sea Trial and praying you have no major issues!!
Just posted the sea trial video today.
Great Video, I really liked it. We work on cool fuel modules, and if you would ever like a sponsorship on parts, we would be glad to help. Filters, top caps, injectors or any of the fuel related components!
I think I watched your videos. Very informative and sure Im interested. My email is tdemarzo@verizon.net
Great job!!
It pays to be methodical..came out beautifully!
Cheers
Very neat but it works the opposite way.....the second port where the arrow is is under a vacuum, the venturi effect so a vacuum is created which pulls water in through the first port. Enjoying your series on the Ian damage and boat recovery.
Nice job salvaging that CFM3. While you’re down there check for paint flakes on the regulator screen.
Will do!
Nice work, just found your channel, trying to catch up on the adventure.
i think you saved yourself $1000 in labor on that job
B: Tom… Did you get any workouts or other exercise in today?
T: Yeah… I did boat yoga routines every day this week. 😂🤣
Seriously tho, Good job man. 👍🏼😎
Congrats….great work!!
Surprised no clamps on those lines.
The hoses are press fit from the factory. Works well but impossible to disconnect. Give me regular hose clamps any day.
I thought the same thing but then thought about it. It's a low pressure water inlet un-like a closed radiator pressure system. So really no reason for clamps when the have the built in ridges and a tight fit small pipe.
This will help someone curse and yell their pump in too but at least they’ll know it’l work out!
Nice job !
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Happy Ours.
I did not see any hose clamps / clips on the inlet or outlet of the water pipes on the new module.
Regards.
David in Oz.
The hoses are press fit from the factory. They don’t need hose clamps. They are nearly impossible to remove.
Did you recover that 10mm wrench 5:56, or is it permanent ballast in the bilge? I have around 20 lbs in mine.
Ah you caught that huh! Lol. Yes it was not lost forever. Lol
Swell job and great camera work. how do you do it; pencil cam or some kind of GoPro or? Your hands are on the work so who holds cam. Those squash clamps cost about 6 cents; screw types probably 30 that's why the factory uses them. Did you Oorah or Hooah.
I use several cameras. Mostly my iPhone as it takes the best video. GoPro for some and for the hands free work I have video spy glasses I wear. I’ll put link in the description.
@@AdventuresofHappyOurs Thanks.
Not to be picky, but why would you have the red key fob on the starboard engine and the green one on the port engine?
Red right return. Red bouy’s are on the right when you return from sea. Green are on port (or left)
@@AdventuresofHappyOurs Oh, I see, and then you switch them when you are heading out to sea. I never would have thought of that. Was it in a boating course?
I don’t switch the keys but it’s easy for me to know which key goes where now. Lol
What is the part number or what is the hose called in the first of the video
Here is the link to the hose assembly I ordered for my particular motor. www.mercruiserparts.com/865317t01-fitting-hose-asy
Big block Chevys?
that housing is old and should be updated to the new one and mercury pays for the the top cover kit and 8 new injectors go talk to a marina that's mercury certified.
Yes they pay for parts if a certified mechanic does the work. You still have to pay for labor which is as much as the parts cost. I’d rather do the work myself. On my terms and not wait for someone to do it for me.
@@AdventuresofHappyOurs And you know it's done correctly. I don't let any young monkeys work on my Yamaha outboards or any of my cars. It's good to have skills like you have 👍
Where can i get this part and whts this part name or number
Here is the link. www.mercruiserparts.com/865317t01-fitting-hose-asy
For what it's worth when mine started to leak, I took my module to a local machine shop and had them drill threads into the module to accept brass barb fittings. I cut the remaining nylon left inside the hose and slipped them onto the brass barbs. They are held by ss hose clamps. I had seen this upgrade/repair somewhere else. It's been working for over a year with no issues.
It cost me about $120 including the fittings. A little more than the replacement part but I think it will last longer.
@robertkarl29 I’ve considered that but there is very little material to tap on the module. I’ve found a similar repair using plastic barb fitting(plastic is recommended as brass and aluminum in salt water will cause galvanic corrosion). Plastic barb with 3m 4200 is a semi permanent replacement.
Yeah
I wouldn't rust that fuel module as far as I could throw it.
Boat=bust out another thousand?
you are going to regret not changing that unit out the corrosion will only get worse once that aluminum starts to corrode there is no end worse than steel
New unit is still aluminum. This should last me until repower.