Adam, collets and screw threads have been a problem for me because the crests were often bruised from the clamping force. An old timer in the electric shop showed me how to pick a copper or iron wire size to wind spring fashion into the thread, The collet gripped the wire and the wire contacted the thread flanks. The softcwire deformed making a good but gentle grip on the threads.
I have been buy alot of my machinist tool again. I am working hard at it Atom.i am a recovering addict, 2byrs clean, 48 yrs. old. I enjoy Machining I enjoy watching you Machining, Mr Pete, this old Tony, the Canadian and hand tool rescue with Daniel. My dream is to own my own meal or leave one day I have a nice little workshop it's awesome it's just a little shed. But I'm so grateful. And I watch guys like you online and see that you guys are so grateful man. Thank you Adam thank you very much
Yep, great picture quality. Just needs an off machine tripod for anti vibration, I mean placed with feet on floor, and the rhode directional mic to avoid excess background like you say there. Great vids as ever Adam :)
I know from a production standpoint the background noise isn't desired, but I actually like it. It makes the experience of being there in the shop much more vivid. The picture is excellent, and just like the rest of your vids, this one is great. Thanks for the upload and have a great trip.
Abom using a 1/16" end mill? That's a switch! Must have been good and sharp, that was a pretty good cut. I held my breath hoping it wouldn't break. Sony camera looks good. With a close-up shot, you might try a higher f-stop, it will give you a greater depth of field and make focusing less critical.
That new camera has such incredible image quality! I like the background noise for that bit. But yes, you need to get or build some sort of a rubber shockmount for damping the vibrations for mounting the NOGA-held camera on a machine's table. Fun to see you working on smaller parts once in a while. ^^
I like the short review at the end showing your starting bolt and the finished products put to use. Keep up the good work. Hope your Christmas was meaningful and...HAPPY NEW YEAR.
I needed some M7 bolts a few years ago when I replaced an engine on a old Craftsman snow-blower, and the new motor (offshore clone) needed the M7 to mount. No-one had in stock, and online the only suggestion was a VW shop, as they indicated that M7 was used for some part (water pump?) on a few years models. It turned out to be easier just to grab a few M8 bolts, and run an M7 die on them to thread them down to M7. (for some reason my tap and die set had a M7 die) Not a perfect solution, but it did the job without having to re-invent the wheel.
I think this new camera and improved closeups marks biggest improvement in Adams video quality so far. Great job as always and it looks like even better future :)
Adam, do you have a slitting saw arbor for the DoAll mill? You did a good job using that 1/16" end mill, but I was holding my breath the whole time, LOL. I have broken my share of those, now I prefer to use a slitting saw blade. TreeTop
Abom! Im a moldmaker, how are you whooping on that 1/16 cutter that hard?! I guess I am too used to tool steel Lol. Keep up the good work, I love watching, my lady knows saturday nights when I pour a drink and walk into my office its abom time!
I used collet holders like that all the time when I was a lead setup man on horizontal mills. If i remember correctly the lock screw is not for locking the collet holder in the closed position. It was to keep the collet from spinning in the holder in long production runs. On the collets we used there was a keyway where that lock screw or set screw would hold the collet in place and not let it spin. Then you just move the handle up to take milled part out and push down to tighten on part to be milled.
The problem with mine is that is feels kind of springy and it might not stay locked with just the handle. The set screw kept the collet locked in place though.
Yes, they dont click or a lock down feel but they hold like that springy feel. We ran short production runs as small as 10pcs. and as big as 10,000 and they held like that and I never had one lift the part out of the collet. They hold well.
I know this is an old video but I love the fact you walked into your local hardware store & found M7 x 1's. I can walk into my local hardware store & all I can buy is curtains & throw pillows!!!!!
For those who don't have a full drill size set here is my advice. My projects used a mix of metric and Imperial fasteners. An older machinist advised me to buy a complete fractional/numbered/lettered set. That way all sizes are covered. a couple of 1/1000 of an inch wont make a significant difference. Find a drill chart that converts the metric size to its imperial equivalent and away you go. It worked really well. I bought a cheap all inclusive set and when a bit broke I replaced it with a new but Good bit.
Like you said M7 is not a common used size. Our regular Hardware-Stores normally don't sell them. If they do they are quite specialized. I find it hilarious that you would find them in an US Hardware-Store.
its an iso size, just a weird one, along with the 11mm head size it would have had., i belive its more of a 'leftover' size from fractional sizing as its very close to 7/16 bar stock
Lol...exactly! Even though my tap and die set has them I have not encountered a M7 screw or nut even in the wildest hardware bin! Not on thread repairs(even though it's the correct size over M6), not on motorcycles cars bicycles, and I bet even unicorns don't have them!
i've never seen M7 before even working in the shop for almost ten years(im in asia here almost everything are in metrics)it really rare size sorry for my english not my 1st language
Your English is OK! I've never seen a 7mm thread either. I have never seen a 7mm tap or die. It is like a Unified National #12-24 thread. Until last year I never needed a #12-24 tap and like Abom I found one at the True Value Hardware store (a full three tap set with a plug and bottoming tap in fact! It was American made too).
Zorgoban Ya I have had to look for some M7, seems to be common in German made things for some reason Its a pain when someone uses it, as trying to fix it and nothing is open on weekends much. I still wonder though why its used, such a weird size.
Thanks for your video. Though i have multifix tool post and holder sales many years. Many models are made in China and I just sell. I don't know how to use them actually. By your video i learn that the T wrench can be used on height adjusting screw too. And i saw some interesting tools and accessories in your workshop. Thanks!
By the way, why don't you make some hard mounting points in the ceiling? Nothing permanent, but example, you could have a plate above each machine, and on it, a thread. There you'd mount and extension that would give you a metal point to grab with you Noga. It wouldn't be in the way, and, bonus, no vibrations.
Have you built a tool holder rack for your multi fix tool holders? I have several tool holders for my E series QCTP and would like to mount them similar to the Tom Lipton method he used for his Aloris tool holders. .Wondering if you had a design you liked
You could pick up a boom type microphone stand pretty cheap, and use it to put your camera close to or over the work without sitting it on the machine. Probably have to make an adapter between the stand and the boom end, but that should be easy enough. I think I saw one at Amazon for around $20. If you're worried about it falling over, just do what the pros do and sandbag the leg opposite the load. Goes without saying I am a solid fan of the channel. Thanks for all you do.
I like the back ground noise, not too loud like music in the back ground Real life works real well for you and the sound goes well with the work IMHO. Like in the shop at MI, people walking around metal banging around when the machine is off. Keith F and Keith R (at the museum) both have background sound. I sure as hell prefer it to music. Not a camera person but it seem to me the auto focus could be over thinking the vibration when the cutter was cutting. Either that or the camera was just capturing the vibration of the set up. It was in focus before and after the cut. Sound volume is definitely up a notch or two but very clear, switching cameras often might be annoying. Just my 2 cents. Great to watch as always and thanks for the work ahead so none of have a depressing Saturday night.
Hea Adom, With the new Sony, if you shoot with a higher f stop, the depth of field will be greater and it will be a lot easier for you to keep stuff in focus. The Rode will definitely give you a lot better audio as the mics and pre amps on all but the highest of high end camera are pretty bad.
Hi! I guess that it is not possible to machine a hex/allen recess in the bolt so you could use an allen wrench to tighten it. I offhand would not know how to do it. I have a faint memory that in the manufacturing process the bolt head is heated and something like a punch or die is used to form the socket head. Just wondering. Another great video Adam!
i forget if Sony uses sensor stabilization or OIS in the lenses but make sure that is turned on, it will help with the vibration. As far as microphones go an external is always a good idea. the internal will do the job but you can expect much higher quality from a hotshoe mounted external.
The video on the new camera is great. The audio is pretty good too. There might be a setting to disable automatic gain control which is amplifying the background noise when things are quiet.
The new camera looks great. The shots on the machine were a bit jittery but came out pretty well. But I guess in the end putting it on the tripod and using a lense with farther zoom will probably be the easiest solution.
Hey Adam, I heard you telling that your mind was set up with imperial measurements and that you were having difficulties with metric. For me that is likewise, but the other way around. Metric is in my system and if I have to do with imperial, than i have to do some thinking. But what helps me enormus is, that 1/16" is almost exactly 1.6 mm (your may be a few thousands off). This has proved to me very handy and easy to remember. So: 5/8 = 10/16 = 10 x1.6 = 16mm and 5/32" = 2.5/16 = 2.5x1.6 = 4mm. And 1" = 16/16 = 16x1.6 = 25.6mm. This works for me and it might give you a better feeling for metric measurements. Y.C., Timen.
To each his own but I think I would have cut the slots with a slotting saw/arbor combo holding them horizontal. Don't really matter how it is done as long as it gets done....... Good video as always.
The whole thing adapting a screw head is a 10 seconds job on a grinder. Would not be as pretty but would work just as well. Only NASA would machine a screw with 1 thou tolerance :-)
The new camera close-up view is excellent. Fix depth-of-field/focussing issues with more light! Or crank up ISO values -but this might increase noise in image.
Adam Kraehling it's not really to much to worry about. Just more good practice and something to keep in mind. Try to have your tip less than 15 degrees. If I walk past a height gauge and the test indicator tip is at a 45. I always bend it up with my OCD.
It's interesting how much vibration was introduced when you started cutting, and it looked subtle enough to only cause focus issues and not movement issues. I wonder how much that vibration effects the machine. Also, try a shock mount for the camera, should be good enough, and they're used throughout the RC world especially in multi-rotors. And your idea of using a Rode mic to get rid of background noise; I personally like some background noise, gives more life to the content, as it doesn't make your workshop and the world around it seem dead silent.
I may be crazy but my first reaction to the fasteners being a different size was to use helicoils (if you have the right size on hand). Am I crazy? I would have wanted all of my tool holders to be uniform and interchangeable. I have learned that I dont recognize when things are good enough and often put too much time into little tasks that should take minimal time in the machine shop. I do think that you made a top notch fix for this problem. Love your content and willingness to teach.
@@michael931 They do make M7x1 helicoils but I think you would want to use an M6x1 coil in the existing M7 hole so that you can use an M6 fastener. I imagine that it will not be perfect but it could work.
Try to set the focus to manual on the new Sony and see if it's take the shakings on the machine better! I think the auto focus is compensating for the vibrations and that's why it get blurry some times.
I think the camera was also hunting the chips on auto-focus. I'd go to complete manual focus if the camera supports it. I really liked the close-in shot though. Even feeding would cause the focus the change.
Just a Tip from a Guy over here in Germany:.... get a METRIC Repair Set called "Helicoil", drill your "M7" Hole bigger in the Multifixholder to 7,6-7,8mm , tap it for the M6-Helicoil, and then thread a M6-Helicoil Insert in there....DONE......use your Indicator Holder as is, WITH the M6 Allen-Head Screws.... ;) all tools required ar in a Set for the Helicoil (Drill, Tap, and inserts)
What was the old camera? I think I remember you saying Gopro. If so, I bet you are digging the View screen! Video is a great improvement over the old, even-though the old video wasnt bad.
Hi Adam Cool Video. It is kinda strange for me, that in the US, metric threads are more common than imperial threads, here in Europe, or is this just my imaginitation. Here in Europe mostly just the plumber threads are imperial (NPT and the strange tube thread), but I had noticed that you make a lot with metric stuff. BTW: The macro video with the Sony looking really good, you can count every single chip! ;)
Just wanted to point out that you are correct, M7x1 is far more rare than M6 or M8 because M7 is considered a 'second choice' thread size (but does actually exist as an ISO 261 standard, unlike M9).
The more you are zoomed in, the more apparent the vibration will be. In your camera settings there should be something about audio gain. By default the audio is likely set to be automatic which means it is constantly adjusting to get some sound so when it's quiet the camera will amplify what's available like the road noise etc. Nice shots!
Two things, I recently had to make SS 8-40 Allen Head cap screws for the reason that nobody makes them SS. Another thing I bought a tool holder from Peter I was surprised to find out it was made in China, not in Germany. Bummer!!
A stupid question from a non machinist to Adam, or any machinist willing to answer it. When setting up the 5C collet chuck, why did you make you sure you are on center in both axis? Because you then moved one axis to mill the small slot. So ist there an advantage of doing that, or is just just the habit of a professional setting everything up perfectly?
The new Sony looks good. I don't think vibration was an issue - it was trying to autofocus on the chips. Either set focus to be autofocus only at the beginning of the shot, or manual focus.
Adam, collets and screw threads have been a problem for me because the crests were often bruised from the clamping force. An old timer in the electric shop showed me how to pick a copper or iron wire size to wind spring fashion into the thread, The collet gripped the wire and the wire contacted the thread flanks. The softcwire deformed making a good but gentle grip on the threads.
thats a nice one I will have to try.
Or lock two nuts against each other, making sure that the flats line up.
Perfect upload times. Just finished watching part 1, and then this one went live. Thanks for the awesome videos Adam.
Same here!
I have been buy alot of my machinist tool again. I am working hard at it Atom.i am a recovering addict, 2byrs clean, 48 yrs. old. I enjoy Machining I enjoy watching you Machining, Mr Pete, this old Tony, the Canadian and hand tool rescue with Daniel. My dream is to own my own meal or leave one day I have a nice little workshop it's awesome it's just a little shed. But I'm so grateful. And I watch guys like you online and see that you guys are so grateful man. Thank you Adam thank you very much
New camera looks pretty good. Definitely a learning curve to filming with this stuff.
Yep, great picture quality. Just needs an off machine tripod for anti vibration, I mean placed with feet on floor, and the rhode directional mic to avoid excess background like you say there. Great vids as ever Adam :)
I know from a production standpoint the background noise isn't desired, but I actually like it. It makes the experience of being there in the shop much more vivid. The picture is excellent, and just like the rest of your vids, this one is great. Thanks for the upload and have a great trip.
Abom using a 1/16" end mill? That's a switch! Must have been good and sharp, that was a pretty good cut. I held my breath hoping it wouldn't break.
Sony camera looks good. With a close-up shot, you might try a higher f-stop, it will give you a greater depth of field and make focusing less critical.
That new camera has such incredible image quality! I like the background noise for that bit. But yes, you need to get or build some sort of a rubber shockmount for damping the vibrations for mounting the NOGA-held camera on a machine's table. Fun to see you working on smaller parts once in a while. ^^
I like the short review at the end showing your starting bolt and the finished products put to use. Keep up the good work.
Hope your Christmas was meaningful and...HAPPY NEW YEAR.
I needed some M7 bolts a few years ago when I replaced an engine on a old Craftsman snow-blower, and the new motor (offshore clone) needed the M7 to mount. No-one had in stock, and online the only suggestion was a VW shop, as they indicated that M7 was used for some part (water pump?) on a few years models. It turned out to be easier just to grab a few M8 bolts, and run an M7 die on them to thread them down to M7. (for some reason my tap and die set had a M7 die) Not a perfect solution, but it did the job without having to re-invent the wheel.
That you find M7 bolt is the most amazing thing!
I think so too. I live in Europe where we use metric srews and I am almost 70 year old. I have never seen M7 bolts. They are very rare.
Excellent camera shots.
Sweet little repair job Adam, looks great! Thanks,bro.
Love the new Sony camera with the tight macro shots.
Brings a whole new dimension to the operation.
Nice close up shots with the new camera. Nice reuse of the screws.
I think this new camera and improved closeups marks biggest improvement in Adams video quality so far. Great job as always and it looks like even better future :)
Man, thank you for all you do and keep on teaching. Thank you, sir!!!
Great job Adam , More tool holders for the shop .. AWESOME !! Thumbs up man..
Adam, do you have a slitting saw arbor for the DoAll mill? You did a good job using that 1/16" end mill, but I was holding my breath the whole time, LOL. I have broken my share of those, now I prefer to use a slitting saw blade. TreeTop
I wondered the same regarding the use of a slitting saw and the collet holder being used at 90, but it all worked out fine just as we anticipated.
Abom! Im a moldmaker, how are you whooping on that 1/16 cutter that hard?! I guess I am too used to tool steel Lol. Keep up the good work, I love watching, my lady knows saturday nights when I pour a drink and walk into my office its abom time!
Might have to make a rubber shock mount for the vibration on the video...but very cool!
I had the same thoughts.
I used collet holders like that all the time when I was a lead setup man on horizontal mills. If i remember correctly the lock screw is not for locking the collet holder in the closed position. It was to keep the collet from spinning in the holder in long production runs. On the collets we used there was a keyway where that lock screw or set screw would hold the collet in place and not let it spin. Then you just move the handle up to take milled part out and push down to tighten on part to be milled.
The problem with mine is that is feels kind of springy and it might not stay locked with just the handle. The set screw kept the collet locked in place though.
Yes, they dont click or a lock down feel but they hold like that springy feel. We ran short production runs as small as 10pcs. and as big as 10,000 and they held like that and I never had one lift the part out of the collet. They hold well.
I know this is an old video but I love the fact you walked into your local hardware store & found M7 x 1's. I can walk into my local hardware store & all I can buy is curtains & throw pillows!!!!!
That EDGE Technologies articulated arm looks really handy!
For those who don't have a full drill size set here is my advice. My projects used a mix of metric and Imperial fasteners. An older machinist advised me to buy a complete fractional/numbered/lettered set. That way all sizes are covered. a couple of 1/1000 of an inch wont make a significant difference. Find a drill chart that converts the metric size to its imperial equivalent and away you go. It worked really well. I bought a cheap all inclusive set and when a bit broke I replaced it with a new but Good bit.
Excellent new lens and camera.
Like you said M7 is not a common used size. Our regular Hardware-Stores normally don't sell them. If they do they are quite specialized. I find it hilarious that you would find them in an US Hardware-Store.
its an iso size, just a weird one, along with the 11mm head size it would have had., i belive its more of a 'leftover' size from fractional sizing as its very close to 7/16 bar stock
Lol...exactly! Even though my tap and die set has them I have not encountered a M7 screw or nut even in the wildest hardware bin! Not on thread repairs(even though it's the correct size over M6), not on motorcycles cars bicycles, and I bet even unicorns don't have them!
i've never seen M7 before even working in the shop for almost ten years(im in asia here almost everything are in metrics)it really rare size
sorry for my english not my 1st language
Your English is OK! I've never seen a 7mm thread either. I have never seen a 7mm tap or die. It is like a Unified National #12-24 thread. Until last year I never needed a #12-24 tap and like Abom I found one at the True Value Hardware store (a full three tap set with a plug and bottoming tap in fact! It was American made too).
Zorgoban
Ya I have had to look for some M7, seems to be common in German made things for some reason
Its a pain when someone uses it, as trying to fix it and nothing is open on weekends much.
I still wonder though why its used, such a weird size.
I sure enjoyed the process making the new screws.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks Jeff. Even the simple projects require the same machines and tools.
That's for sure.
Adam, Have a great Thanksgiving.
Sound and video were on point. No complaints here.
Your collet fixture is a sweet piece of gear. Thank for the vids.
Really great video quality. Looks fantastic.
Thanks for your video. Though i have multifix tool post and holder sales many years. Many models are made in China and I just sell. I don't know how to use them actually. By your video i learn that the T wrench can be used on height adjusting screw too. And i saw some interesting tools and accessories in your workshop. Thanks!
That new camera is sweet. Plus thanks for the new tool demo.
The collet holder is very nice, and so is the new camera! Whenever you have smaller stuff, it's perfect for it.
By the way, why don't you make some hard mounting points in the ceiling? Nothing permanent, but example, you could have a plate above each machine, and on it, a thread. There you'd mount and extension that would give you a metal point to grab with you Noga. It wouldn't be in the way, and, bonus, no vibrations.
Hey Adam.
Loving the close up video and still shots.
Love your video's
Thanks for sharing.
Some nice shots Adam.
both of those Edge brand products you've shown look really nice. your Sony cam sure can make a close up shot. great SNS videos Adam. see ya next time
brilliant adam the new camera shows very high quality and detail.
Have you built a tool holder rack for your multi fix tool holders? I have several tool holders for my E series QCTP and would like to mount them similar to the Tom Lipton method he used for his Aloris tool holders. .Wondering if you had a design you liked
You do fine work brother. This is the best UA-cam channel.
You could pick up a boom type microphone stand pretty cheap, and use it to put your camera close to or over the work without sitting it on the machine. Probably have to make an adapter between the stand and the boom end, but that should be easy enough. I think I saw one at Amazon for around $20. If you're worried about it falling over, just do what the pros do and sandbag the leg opposite the load. Goes without saying I am a solid fan of the channel. Thanks for all you do.
I really like the Sony camera for video. Very clear and focused.
Very good picture quality when everything is stationary. I actually like the extra background sounds myself, at leadt in the video.
I like the back ground noise, not too loud like music in the back ground Real life works real well for you and the sound goes well with the work IMHO. Like in the shop at MI, people walking around metal banging around when the machine is off. Keith F and Keith R (at the museum) both have background sound. I sure as hell prefer it to music. Not a camera person but it seem to me the auto focus could be over thinking the vibration when the cutter was cutting. Either that or the camera was just capturing the vibration of the set up. It was in focus before and after the cut. Sound volume is definitely up a notch or two but very clear, switching cameras often might be annoying. Just my 2 cents. Great to watch as always and thanks for the work ahead so none of have a depressing Saturday night.
Sony cam looks great! Why didn't you use the new Shars calipers?
Hea Adom,
With the new Sony, if you shoot with a higher f stop, the depth of field will be greater and it will be a lot easier for you to keep stuff in focus. The Rode will definitely give you a lot better audio as the mics and pre amps on all but the highest of high end camera are pretty bad.
I would also suggest seeing if the camera has a focus lock.
It's hard to believe that the little16th endmill can make that large mill vibrate.
That Sony camera is a winner Adam. Really good focus and light. Nice video also.
Hi! I guess that it is not possible to machine a hex/allen recess in the bolt so you could use an allen wrench to tighten it. I offhand would not know how to do it. I have a faint memory that in the manufacturing process the bolt head is heated and something like a punch or die is used to form the socket head. Just wondering. Another great video Adam!
Do you use boring bars with flats with that borinh bar holder? What is best way to align the bar?
That's a neat 5C collet holder. The new camera shows a lot of promise.
Nice crisp image with the Sony. Non machinist but enjoy watching and learning :) Keep up the good work. Kia Ora from NZ
had an eargasm when you said 7mil haha YEOW! metric baby haha
Troy
i forget if Sony uses sensor stabilization or OIS in the lenses but make sure that is turned on, it will help with the vibration. As far as microphones go an external is always a good idea. the internal will do the job but you can expect much higher quality from a hotshoe mounted external.
The video on the new camera is great. The audio is pretty good too. There might be a setting to disable automatic gain control which is amplifying the background noise when things are quiet.
The new camera looks great. The shots on the machine were a bit jittery but came out pretty well. But I guess in the end putting it on the tripod and using a lense with farther zoom will probably be the easiest solution.
Also great video. Thanks for sharing.
Who makes the Tool holder that holds the hss tool? That is exactly what I need.
Hey Adam, I heard you telling that your mind was set up with imperial measurements and that you were having difficulties with metric. For me that is likewise, but the other way around. Metric is in my system and if I have to do with imperial, than i have to do some thinking. But what helps me enormus is, that 1/16" is almost exactly 1.6 mm (your may be a few thousands off). This has proved to me very handy and easy to remember. So: 5/8 = 10/16 = 10 x1.6 = 16mm and 5/32" = 2.5/16 = 2.5x1.6 = 4mm. And 1" = 16/16 = 16x1.6 = 25.6mm. This works for me and it might give you a better feeling for metric measurements. Y.C., Timen.
To each his own but I think I would have cut the slots with a slotting saw/arbor combo holding them horizontal. Don't really matter how it is done as long as it gets done....... Good video as always.
Johnny Holland As I have always said, more then one way to get the job done.
That is what makes Adam's channel so interesting is that he shows us different ways to accomplish a goal.
The whole thing adapting a screw head is a 10 seconds job on a grinder. Would not be as pretty but would work just as well. Only NASA would machine a screw with 1 thou tolerance :-)
i think most people would have used a slotting saw but this is way more entertaining
The new camera close-up view is excellent. Fix depth-of-field/focussing issues with more light! Or crank up ISO values -but this might increase noise in image.
Hey Adam, can you explain the cosine effect on indicators? I don't really get it, looked it up on a few sites
Adam Kraehling it's not really to much to worry about. Just more good practice and something to keep in mind. Try to have your tip less than 15 degrees. If I walk past a height gauge and the test indicator tip is at a 45. I always bend it up with my OCD.
It's interesting how much vibration was introduced when you started cutting, and it looked subtle enough to only cause focus issues and not movement issues. I wonder how much that vibration effects the machine. Also, try a shock mount for the camera, should be good enough, and they're used throughout the RC world especially in multi-rotors.
And your idea of using a Rode mic to get rid of background noise; I personally like some background noise, gives more life to the content, as it doesn't make your workshop and the world around it seem dead silent.
How would you add an Allen wrench hole to the top of the 7mm screw/bolt, as opposed to adding a straight slot for a screwdriver?
i really like that multifix system, it looks like the handiest out of all the systems i've seen so far
I love it! Great tool post system to use.
It sure is! I have just ordered a set! Can't wait to use it!
I may be crazy but my first reaction to the fasteners being a different size was to use helicoils (if you have the right size on hand). Am I crazy? I would have wanted all of my tool holders to be uniform and interchangeable. I have learned that I dont recognize when things are good enough and often put too much time into little tasks that should take minimal time in the machine shop. I do think that you made a top notch fix for this problem. Love your content and willingness to teach.
M7 is so odd, do they even make a M7 Helicoil?
@@michael931 They do make M7x1 helicoils but I think you would want to use an M6x1 coil in the existing M7 hole so that you can use an M6 fastener. I imagine that it will not be perfect but it could work.
@@crashes3221 you're right. That would have been much easier.
Try to set the focus to manual on the new Sony and see if it's take the shakings on the machine better! I think the auto focus is compensating for the vibrations and that's why it get blurry some times.
I think the camera was also hunting the chips on auto-focus. I'd go to complete manual focus if the camera supports it. I really liked the close-in shot though. Even feeding would cause the focus the change.
Just a Tip from a Guy over here in Germany:.... get a METRIC Repair Set called "Helicoil", drill your "M7" Hole bigger in the Multifixholder to 7,6-7,8mm , tap it for the M6-Helicoil, and then thread a M6-Helicoil Insert in there....DONE......use your Indicator Holder as is, WITH the M6 Allen-Head Screws.... ;) all tools required ar in a Set for the Helicoil (Drill, Tap, and inserts)
I considered one of those edge indicator holders. I'm glad now I went with the noga.
The Metal Butcher I agree. Still looks nicer than the infamous indicol.
Wow that new camera shoots amazing video.
Larry Potterfield says: ... slap on some cold blue
What was the old camera? I think I remember you saying Gopro. If so, I bet you are digging the View screen! Video is a great improvement over the old, even-though the old video wasnt bad.
Hi Adam
Cool Video. It is kinda strange for me, that in the US, metric threads are more common than imperial threads, here in Europe, or is this just my imaginitation. Here in Europe mostly just the plumber threads are imperial (NPT and the strange tube thread), but I had noticed that you make a lot with metric stuff.
BTW: The macro video with the Sony looking really good, you can count every single chip! ;)
Just wanted to point out that you are correct, M7x1 is far more rare than M6 or M8 because M7 is considered a 'second choice' thread size (but does actually exist as an ISO 261 standard, unlike M9).
What type of jobs do you do? Is it all commercial
The more you are zoomed in, the more apparent the vibration will be. In your camera settings there should be something about audio gain. By default the audio is likely set to be automatic which means it is constantly adjusting to get some sound so when it's quiet the camera will amplify what's available like the road noise etc.
Nice shots!
I would just used a zip cut for that. Lol and I would got away with it. But it does lead me to wonder what if or can you do a torex?
21:00 Almost certainly rubbing the hole. 7MM hole, 7MM screw. The only clearance is the error.
I believe those are fillister head screws. I head to buy some at fastenal to fix a vice.
Loving the vids as usual. Can you show the high speed tool you used in more detail because it doesn't look like a normal grind.
most of the metric set have 6, 6.25, 6.50, 6.75 mm ... keep the good work.. all you do is fantantastic..
to cancel out that vibration, stick the mag base to a piece of plate, set that plate on a piece of rubber.
Abom does Clickspring!
how did you Zoom with a 50mm lens......
I thought even with the little bit of vibe it was still a damn good shot.
Why no face cut on the screws? Those half cut numbers look ugly.
then there would have been no evidence ;)
very nice video crystal clear
Thanks for the video always look forward to them Guy uk
new camera has great sound.
Really like the quality of the Sony video, much better than the GoPro.
Hope you stick with it and can find a way to make it work.
Great video
Slotted screws, hate them! Talk about antique! Easy to make though.
Two things, I recently had to make SS 8-40 Allen Head cap screws for the reason that nobody makes them SS.
Another thing I bought a tool holder from Peter I was surprised to find out it was made in China, not in Germany. Bummer!!
A stupid question from a non machinist to Adam, or any machinist willing to answer it.
When setting up the 5C collet chuck, why did you make you sure you are on center in both axis?
Because you then moved one axis to mill the small slot.
So ist there an advantage of doing that, or is just just the habit of a professional setting everything up perfectly?
think you got a winner with the new camera,better quality picture, see the finer details
nice work!
Sony cam has really good sound!
The new Sony looks good. I don't think vibration was an issue - it was trying to autofocus on the chips. Either set focus to be autofocus only at the beginning of the shot, or manual focus.
a big big thumbs up on video abam
I'll use a transfer punch to locate holes instead of a drill bit.
It looks like the chip stream was confusing the auto focus.
nice job
nice to see you get with the rest of the world and use metric