Haha, I'm a new hobby machinist with a junky old used lathe. Just two days ago I was working on a project, facing the end of a piece and the end came out domed! I watched carefully and could see the tool moving the right as I cut! I checked everything, all tight, saddle and cross slide locked, so confused! Then I figured out I never finished tightening the chuck! It was nice to see I'm not the only one who makes that sort of mistake, thanks for leaving that in the video.
For a finish pass, I use aluminum inserts. Slowish speed, good high pressure oil, and go. Even the cheapest inserts do a great job and you can take as little as a thou or two and get a glass finish. People give me hell for it, but 20 alum inserts are the same price as one good insert for steel... so I use one edge per part and toss them.
@@Clough42 Since *_it would appear_* you clean up your chips after every operation/job, do you save the chips of the more frequently used or expensive stock (properly categorized, of course) for potentially reducing them to ingots, or is this just my packrat tendencies seeping through? 👀 EDIT: This is the train of thought that goes through my mind each time I watch you rough out a large piece of stock to half its original size. LMAO
He did a nice job but the line I found funny was he did not feel like looking up wrench flat information in Machinery handbook. I'm thinking 5/8 or 16mm does not take that much research.
Yeah seemed a bit dodgy. I would have just used any metric wrench size where the flats were approx the right depth on the round stock. I think that is one of the problems working in imperial, less standardisation.
As with others - definitely interested in the casting. What I'm thankful for is it really should be compatible with any lathe, assuming similar swing. The bolt holes can go anywhere needed!
Suggestion for stopping before a shoulder when threading: I'm sure there are a few GPIO pins left on the electronic leadscrew. I'd bet there is some sort of digital output on the DRO. Run a feed from the DRO carriage position to the ELS, and some way to tell the ELS to stop at the current position. Set the carriage where you want it to stop, tell the ELS, and thread. When it moves left to the final position it stops driving the leadscrew.
Or try making a hard stop with a push to break switch imbedded in the face. Set the stop on the bed so the carriage hits it at the end of the thread, the switch breaks a circuit to stop the lead screw and the stop arrests the carriage. It might need some Nylon facing to soften the impact, but the carriage speed is not too great and the lead screw has little inertia.
I had read on 6 finger chucks have reduced surface pressure so you can tighten more without damage but obviously can cause some issues with the work being forced back into the chuck. Good catch on seeing it happen.
I spent most of Feb & March studying insert & tool holder specs, coding, coatings & geometries as research for purchasing a bunch of tooling for my newly acquired mill & supplementing my meager turning tooling. An upshot of cramming all this info into my brain, was realizing how many different kinds of 'chip breakers' exist. The next time I turned something I was in a similar sitch as you were, long azz strings. No chatter or other issues, but strings. I've had strings get caught, then fling swarf into my face; twice strings have thrown sliders w/ chunks curving right around (wrap around type) safety glasses into my eyeball. I started pay very close attention to how the cut material was hitting, (missing) the minute chip breaker features. I changed the angle of attack of the insert by rotating the tool post. To my surprise, the strings stopped & chips broke off. I had a difficult time reproducing the same angle after changing tooling for a feature. I've since been experimenting w/ angle of attack. The jury is still out, but I've had more success w/ this than DoC or SFM changes. Food for thought; I know you like to experiment, & aren't afraid to color outside the lines. I saw someone mention sharpening inserts, (saved Stephen's vid on it, but haven't got to it). I've been sharpening/conturing inserts since I first got some & didn't know you shouldn't (why?). I've had some very good success putting small radii & razor sharp edges on inserts when out of the box is making me crazy. Wear a good mask & work over an easily cleaned surface... cadmium in the inserts are bad juju. GeoD
Definitely interested in a casting. I've been meaning to do this with my 9x20 for a few years, apart from the sticker shock of a piece of Dura-Bar big enough to make it from.
I have enjoyed this series tremendously James. Having made patterns and cast stuff in aluminum, in my past this is very relatable. I am pleased that you went the path you did with this, as it was for me a nice journey to follow along with. When I saw it painted in the beginning of the video I was pleased with what you had done, suits it perfectly. Anyhow, good job! Kind regards, South Africa
I second what Uncle Duncan said. I've really enjoyed the journey from idea to positive to negative to casting to a finished part. I am no longer going to avoid castings in my design process. Thanks for the great series James!! I always enjoy your channel (And I learn soooo much !!!!)
Despite the chip problem that 4140 machines to a lovely surface finish. Thanks for sharing what items were used in the video. I can't tell you how much I appreciate that. The only other UA-camr I know that does that is Louis Rossmann.
I'd be happy taking 50 thou depth of cut passes on a benchtop lathe. Your modifications over the years have really increased that machine's functionality. 👍
Little tip: You could wrap around exactly one layer of emery paper over the finished side (the rough side out) and then rechuck it..... This way you prevent the damage of the hardend jaws on the nicely finished first side. :)
love the pro tip "if it's smoking and gold color it too hot to grab" great project. hammered finish paint help hide bad welds too. hahum, not that i ever had to hide welds, heard from a friend. thanks for sharing!
Huge salute to you and all machinist on youtube, when i have a “bad day” in the shop or at leaset something that isint going my way i get stressed, hot and angry. The last thing i would want any1 to do was to record and upload it hahah. But it is of course always learning. Thanks for the great video.
great project and excellent result. ive been using multifix holders since the 1980s, they are without doubt the best tool holding system in my estimation, however i have learned to NOT fit the location dowel...if you have a crash (in a production shop its easy ..trust me) the toolpost will move and prevent lot of damage. if you ave tha largest mounting stud to hold it down it wont move under normal use ( I remove 1/2" off diameter per cut with a model 'B' holder in 4340 steel) and a nod to a wise man....if you run the spindle speed slower with 4140 -4340 and or use flood coolant it will chip well..it goes stringy when the heat builds up
@8:39 I was thinking I really want to start doing Job Shop Machinist reacts videos, this would have been a great one. Almost all positive, very much enjoy your channel.
Another job well done. On the electronic leadscrew, can you have a provision to cut thread a number of threads or length of thread then stop the leadscrew allow you to back out the tool then reverse to the start position and begin the next cut.
Personal opinion i would like to "glue" the locating pin with high strenght locktite only on the bottom. Blue/medium locktite on the lower part of the center screw you made to prevent it loosening without you noticing and it will still be easy to remove if needed without heating the whole part
That casting looks nice but I wonder if there is really difference compared on steel. I have similar lathe branded as HBM and I made solid toolpost holder from the block of steel. It works really great and I have additional feature which helps with internal turning. I have two attachment points for toolpost, where other one is located on the rightmost edge. I have a clearance to turn relatively big objects without having overhang for my tool. It makes clear difference on rigidity.
Very nice. I would be interested in a casting. I have the same multifix currently mounted to my compound. I need to remake my tool post stud so this video is perfect for me.
It never ceases to amaze me how some people just have to find something negative in a video. If they can't just enjoy the talent and workmanship of the person making the video PLEASE don't watch or at least don't comment.... Thanks for Sharing ... Stay Safe and Well....
Looking good. You won't regret that PeWe tool Multifix 👍 recently mounted a size C on a Cazeneuve HB725. Works super. 👍 Especially the holder for the parting blade is fantastic 👍 highly recommend it Best regards from Denmark
I was giggling when you drilled the entire hole at the bottom of the deep hole in the toolpost device. Surely once you had dialled in the mill XY to match the first hole you could have removed the toolpost device and the mill would have still drilled in the same place... Then spat my drink out when you REAMED it at the bottom of the deep hole too! LOL you had already drilled the hole in the workpiece, where did you think the reamer was going to go? I know you're a smart guy, which probably makes the giggle moments even funnier. 😎
First I would not call that a deep hole it is not uncommon to drill 1/4 inch holes over 6 inches deep. Second if you are drilling a dowel hole in two pieces that have control surface like the tight fit stud you would have to drill then bore location 2% under reamer size then core a control ring about .0005 under reamer .050 deep then ream other wise you can have problems drills will not give you a hole right on location spot drills will not be right on location and reamers will push to a side slightly. The way he did this is common practice in tool shops.
@@terryallemann2654 ... apart from he drilled with a drill bit that was SMALLER than the hole in the toolpost device. So having the device present did not contribute any guide effect. It was all down to the dial-in based on the device. Then the device did not need to be there lol.
@@terryallemann2654 ... yeah there are 2 ways to do the job. 1. You can use the dial on the guide hole, set the mill XY, and then use a stiff centre drill to establish the pilot hole in the workpiece in the correct XY position. In that case the guide hole is no longer needed and should be removed. 2. You mechanically use the guide hole, with a transfer device like a transfer punch or drill bit of the exact same size. Hopefully that will establish the pilot hole in the correct location but causes 2 problems; that drill bit is too big to ream later, or something might go wrong with the transfer punch mark when you drill with a smaller pilot drill. What he did in the video was dial in the mill XY to the guide hole (good) but then started the holes in the workpiece with no centre drill, no punch, and with a long flexible drill bit. That obviously can cause XY error because fhe pilot drill is smaller than the guide hole in the toolpost.. Then, he reamed using the guide hole. That is a bad idea because the greatest force on the reamer is the new pilot hole which is a few thou smaller than the reamer, and it will centre the reamer on the pilot hole. That centering force of fhe pilot hole is much greater than the centering force of the larger guide hole which is a slide fit around the reamer. So if there was xy error it does not fix it, the reamer follows the pilot (XY error) hole, and chews out the side wall of the guide hole destroying the guide toolpost... In my opinion, the best way to do this job was to dial in the XY, then remove the guide hole toolpost, then use a short stiff centre drill and then a normal pilot drill and then ream. All 3 of those ops would have been far better and easier without the superfluous and deep guide hole getting in the way.
@@wizrom3046 With the little machine experience I have I still stand that the way clough42 and the tool holder manufactured recommended is the better way to insure every thing lines up.
Excellent part. I mounted my PeWe tool post recently and had the same idea but didn’t have quite enough material, so made a boss with a through hole and just put a bolt in it. Sometimes having a lathe means you over complicate things to make them on the lathe 😂
Machining 4140 on a small lathe is tough. Obviously it depends on the insert too, but I have similar experience to yours - I got a good chip only when pushing it a bit harder. For me it was at least 0.22-0.25mm per revolution, so more like 10 thou. I have lathes big enough to handle it, but on a smaller lathe, yeah, pretty tough.
As always, I really enjoy your videos. I was wondering if you will be sharing a comparison video that shows the relative rigidity between the lathe prior to the gib retrofit and the post multifix toolpost. That migration seems like it is very significant, and makes this little lathe a lot more powerful.
Test with 08 radius insert, that's the best way to check rigidity gain. And for indicating the tool holder, better to use the inside of the tool groove, it's much better geometry wise.
According to Buck, Rolm and I imagine others, six jaw chucks don’t have the same gripping power that three jaw chucks do. Removing three of the jaws don’t change that, they lessen it, and can cause problems when the other three jaws are put back as you now have uneven wear on the jaws, to the point that the jaws that aren’t used as much, have less wear on the teeth and won’t grip properly. Just something to think about.
I've got a question about the threading at 6:38. There you stopped when the thread was very tight. I was thinking that you wouldn't want to have the thread this tight, because you want to let the faces make the alignment. If the thread is really tight, and not perfectly orthogonal to the face, it might keep the faces from completely touching. If there is a bit of play in the thread, it would be align itself on the face. In this case it should be perfectly fine, because the thread and face was cut in the same setup on both parts.
Awesome project James! Thanks for the great content on your channel, love the way jou talk the viewer through your train of thought. I have a question regarding this rigid setup, if you don't mind... How would one go about cutting single point threads ons a fixed post like this? Please excuse if it's a silly question, but I don't have much machining experience yet. Massive enthusiast though, learning as much as I can from yours, Adam, Curtis and Quinn's content as possible. Hoping to start my own "mini" engineering shop soon.
Being a rank novice myself, my comments are throwaway, at best, but I believe his electronic leadscrew setup affords significantly more leeway (especially regarding single-point threading) where a more traditional, analog setup simply couldn't. I'm not really sure what you could extrapolate from that, other than "Invest in your own Clough42 electronic leadscrew project today!" But, there you go. 🫣
As usual great video. While you were concerned with stopping in the groove for the thread, I had an idea. Since you perfected the electronic leadscrew, why not program the screw to stop at end of thread. Microswitch, another function and led to indicate in the stop thread Mode. Maybe even building in a autoreverse thread for metric. Just a thought.
James, as always, an amazing informative video. As many others have mentioned I too would love to get my hands on one of the tool post castings. Any idea if you plan on selling them? And thanks again for all the VFD/ELS videos! Every time I use my G0602 now I smile and thank you! Awesome upgrade!!
Interested to see how threading goes now, whether the increased rigidity, from the solid toolpost, will offset the increased cutting pressure from cutting on two thread faces vs. cutting on one thread face using the compound, and up to what size thread this is still the case.
Hey James, I have thought of similarly tossing out my compound, and attaching tool post to the cross slide after watching Rob Renz's video a few years ago, however I could not find out how you turn good threads without the compound. Or rather, I could not get past Marc L'Ecuyer and Joe Pieczynski both teaching me how to thread using the compound. I guess a DRO on my lathe would at least help me keep track of thread depth and where my starts are if I ditch the compound... ?
I always tighten the Gibs on my denham junior but this really makes me think I should be doing away with the compound, don't use it much anyhow. Thank you.
Pro tip: To align small short parts on the lathe, I grip them lightly a little further out than I want them and then use the tailstock face to push them square and as deep as I want into the chuck before cranking it tight. For larger parts like brake rotors for example, the best bet is to screw some aluminum risers true after bolting them on the chuck face (Joe Pie video: Improve the parallelism of your 3 jaw chuck), but parallels and random stuff touching on my chuck's face never worked acceptably well for me. Maybe easier to do on a dead true brand new chuck but mine isn't (still grips within 15-20microns after boring my jaws true with a CBN insert) PS: If it was my build I would have went for 2 hollow dowels to align the toolpost riser on the cross-slide, I would align the toolpost with a toolholder clamped to be parallel to the crosslide travel, in order to always have the whole thing perfectly straight with the pin in the correct and defined position (the dowels would also prevent misalignment in case of a crash). Also what I do when having to ream something through a guide is I ream the first couple of mm and then remove the guide the ream the rest of the depth. It will even work with drills and if you are careful and setup everything properly, you will get almost the exact same tolerance and fit with the guide/pilot hole you prepared/used.
Some people make a tool for thier tool post with a ball bearing you push against youir work and turn the chuck by hand and the ball bearing will square the part. Its great for getting parts close quick.
Really enjoy your videos buddy. Considering you established a somewhat partnership with the casting company. My suggestion is the paint the raised letters black. Keep up the great work!
I'd definitely be interested in that casting, though what are the dimensions? I have a 12x36 lathe, not sure it'd be big enough. Is the multi-fix a BXA equivilent? Thanks for sharing! looks great.
Gotta have some adjustability somewhere, unless you plan on machining it perfectly. That seems like the best place, considering the large moment arms and multiple fasteners.
Haha, I'm a new hobby machinist with a junky old used lathe. Just two days ago I was working on a project, facing the end of a piece and the end came out domed! I watched carefully and could see the tool moving the right as I cut! I checked everything, all tight, saddle and cross slide locked, so confused! Then I figured out I never finished tightening the chuck! It was nice to see I'm not the only one who makes that sort of mistake, thanks for leaving that in the video.
Gotta love that stitch looking burn scar that toasty-hot spiral chips will leave between thumb and finger!
Having the castings for sale would be fantastic!
For a finish pass, I use aluminum inserts. Slowish speed, good high pressure oil, and go. Even the cheapest inserts do a great job and you can take as little as a thou or two and get a glass finish. People give me hell for it, but 20 alum inserts are the same price as one good insert for steel... so I use one edge per part and toss them.
In 4140 pre-hard??? 😀
@@jimurrata6785 it’ll work for one finish cut on a part that size.
or do can grind the carbide; stefan gotteswinter has a video on it
Thanks!
Sweet, And yes I would be interested,
22:34 To avoid chatter on a small lathe, especially on large passes, consider locking the cross slide. That will help. Good job with the stud!
Would love to have one of those castings. Awesome video
This shop is so clean… It looks like the equipment is being used for the first time.
Turns out if you clean things, they look clean.
@@Clough42 Since *_it would appear_* you clean up your chips after every operation/job, do you save the chips of the more frequently used or expensive stock (properly categorized, of course) for potentially reducing them to ingots, or is this just my packrat tendencies seeping through? 👀
EDIT: This is the train of thought that goes through my mind each time I watch you rough out a large piece of stock to half its original size. LMAO
Yeah. I would definetly buy one of those castings.
Well done! I finished mine a couple months ago and it made a huge difference in rigidity.
50 years from now your great-grandkid is going to be really confused as to why those wrench flats don't fit any specific type of wrench :-)
Forever wtf Easter egg hunt
He did a nice job but the line I found funny was he did not feel like looking up wrench flat information in Machinery handbook. I'm thinking 5/8 or 16mm does not take that much research.
Haha Nice
Yeah seemed a bit dodgy. I would have just used any metric wrench size where the flats were approx the right depth on the round stock.
I think that is one of the problems working in imperial, less standardisation.
@@wizrom3046 nope. Just as standardized. Just different.
You strive for such perfection (and you achieve it nearly always) is very inspiring for a rank amateur like myself.
As with others - definitely interested in the casting. What I'm thankful for is it really should be compatible with any lathe, assuming similar swing. The bolt holes can go anywhere needed!
Suggestion for stopping before a shoulder when threading:
I'm sure there are a few GPIO pins left on the electronic leadscrew.
I'd bet there is some sort of digital output on the DRO.
Run a feed from the DRO carriage position to the ELS, and some way to tell the ELS to stop at the current position.
Set the carriage where you want it to stop, tell the ELS, and thread. When it moves left to the final position it stops driving the leadscrew.
Or try making a hard stop with a push to break switch imbedded in the face. Set the stop on the bed so the carriage hits it at the end of the thread, the switch breaks a circuit to stop the lead screw and the stop arrests the carriage. It might need some Nylon facing to soften the impact, but the carriage speed is not too great and the lead screw has little inertia.
Your videos are of a great quality and have a great content, i don't know why you don't have many subscribers
I had read on 6 finger chucks have reduced surface pressure so you can tighten more without damage but obviously can cause some issues with the work being forced back into the chuck. Good catch on seeing it happen.
I spent most of Feb & March studying insert & tool holder specs, coding, coatings & geometries as research for purchasing a bunch of tooling for my newly acquired mill & supplementing my meager turning tooling.
An upshot of cramming all this info into my brain, was realizing how many different kinds of 'chip breakers' exist.
The next time I turned something I was in a similar sitch as you were, long azz strings. No chatter or other issues, but strings. I've had strings get caught, then fling swarf into my face; twice strings have thrown sliders w/ chunks curving right around (wrap around type) safety glasses into my eyeball.
I started pay very close attention to how the cut material was hitting, (missing) the minute chip breaker features.
I changed the angle of attack of the insert by rotating the tool post. To my surprise, the strings stopped & chips broke off.
I had a difficult time reproducing the same angle after changing tooling for a feature.
I've since been experimenting w/ angle of attack. The jury is still out, but I've had more success w/ this than DoC or SFM changes.
Food for thought; I know you like to experiment, & aren't afraid to color outside the lines.
I saw someone mention sharpening inserts, (saved Stephen's vid on it, but haven't got to it). I've been sharpening/conturing inserts since I first got some & didn't know you shouldn't (why?).
I've had some very good success putting small radii & razor sharp edges on inserts when out of the box is making me crazy.
Wear a good mask & work over an easily cleaned surface... cadmium in the inserts are bad juju.
GeoD
Definitely interested in a casting. I've been meaning to do this with my 9x20 for a few years, apart from the sticker shock of a piece of Dura-Bar big enough to make it from.
I have enjoyed this series tremendously James.
Having made patterns and cast stuff in aluminum, in my past this is very relatable.
I am pleased that you went the path you did with this, as it was for me a nice journey to follow along with.
When I saw it painted in the beginning of the video I was pleased with what you had done, suits it perfectly.
Anyhow, good job!
Kind regards,
South Africa
I second what Uncle Duncan said. I've really enjoyed the journey from idea to positive to negative to casting to a finished part. I am no longer going to avoid castings in my design process. Thanks for the great series James!! I always enjoy your channel (And I learn soooo much !!!!)
Despite the chip problem that 4140 machines to a lovely surface finish. Thanks for sharing what items were used in the video. I can't tell you how much I appreciate that. The only other UA-camr I know that does that is Louis Rossmann.
Yeah, the 4140 sure is pretty.
I'd be happy taking 50 thou depth of cut passes on a benchtop lathe. Your modifications over the years have really increased that machine's functionality. 👍
Little tip: You could wrap around exactly one layer of emery paper over the finished side (the rough side out) and then rechuck it..... This way you prevent the damage of the hardend jaws on the nicely finished first side. :)
I would definitely be interested in one of these castings. Great videos keep up the good work.
love the pro tip "if it's smoking and gold color it too hot to grab" great project. hammered finish paint help hide bad welds too. hahum, not that i ever had to hide welds, heard from a friend. thanks for sharing!
Excellent improvement on the original fitment.
Thanks for sharing.
Great job James! The whole series was very educational.
Huge salute to you and all machinist on youtube, when i have a “bad day” in the shop or at leaset something that isint going my way i get stressed, hot and angry. The last thing i would want any1 to do was to record and upload it hahah. But it is of course always learning. Thanks for the great video.
great project and excellent result. ive been using multifix holders since the 1980s, they are without doubt the best tool holding system in my estimation, however i have learned to
NOT fit the location dowel...if you have a crash (in a production shop its easy ..trust me) the toolpost will move and prevent lot of damage. if you ave tha largest mounting stud to hold it down it wont move under normal use ( I remove 1/2" off diameter per cut with a model 'B' holder in 4340 steel) and a nod to a wise man....if you run the spindle speed slower with 4140 -4340 and or use flood coolant it will chip well..it goes stringy when the heat builds up
Tip: next time you could put a piece of paper between your hard jaws and the workpiece, this way you have more grip and you don't damage your part.
We used the tri mics for production work up to 7” diameters for 25 years at work. They are awesome.
@8:39 I was thinking I really want to start doing Job Shop Machinist reacts videos, this would have been a great one. Almost all positive, very much enjoy your channel.
Definitely want one of those castings. I have the same lathe.
Another job well done.
On the electronic leadscrew, can you have a provision to cut thread a number of threads or length of thread then stop the leadscrew allow you to back out the tool then reverse to the start position and begin the next cut.
I've always admired your intelligence...right up to the point you grabbed the chip with your bare hand.
Personal opinion i would like to "glue" the locating pin with high strenght locktite only on the bottom.
Blue/medium locktite on the lower part of the center screw you made to prevent it loosening without you noticing and it will still be easy to remove if needed without heating the whole part
Nothing more satisfying than a good slip fit.
Yes would love to get a casting. Very nice tool post.
I wish I didn’t have so many BXA Tool holders. That post would be nice on my small lathe for what I do. Great work as always.
Nice job James.
I’ve seen many channels like yours however no one offers the products you design, your some one I will actually consider being a patrion .
Great addition to the lathe your collaboration with Clark on the Riser was a good choice
That is certainly a nice tool post. Very well done and interesting as well. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
That casting looks nice but I wonder if there is really difference compared on steel. I have similar lathe branded as HBM and I made solid toolpost holder from the block of steel. It works really great and I have additional feature which helps with internal turning. I have two attachment points for toolpost, where other one is located on the rightmost edge. I have a clearance to turn relatively big objects without having overhang for my tool. It makes clear difference on rigidity.
Very nice. I would be interested in a casting. I have the same multifix currently mounted to my compound. I need to remake my tool post stud so this video is perfect for me.
It never ceases to amaze me how some people just have to find something negative in a video. If they can't just enjoy the talent and workmanship of the person making the video PLEASE don't watch or at least don't comment.... Thanks for Sharing ... Stay Safe and Well....
Constructive criticism is fine, emphasis on the constructive. I respectfully disagree with "compliment or be silent".
Looking good. You won't regret that PeWe tool Multifix 👍 recently mounted a size C on a Cazeneuve HB725. Works super. 👍 Especially the holder for the parting blade is fantastic 👍 highly recommend it
Best regards from Denmark
Enjoyed…(as expected)…great video production/discussion/demonstration/build….nice upgrade to the lathe
the PWT multifix is really great, the best you can buy thnxs
I was giggling when you drilled the entire hole at the bottom of the deep hole in the toolpost device. Surely once you had dialled in the mill XY to match the first hole you could have removed the toolpost device and the mill would have still drilled in the same place...
Then spat my drink out when you REAMED it at the bottom of the deep hole too!
LOL you had already drilled the hole in the workpiece, where did you think the reamer was going to go?
I know you're a smart guy, which probably makes the giggle moments even funnier. 😎
First I would not call that a deep hole it is not uncommon to drill 1/4 inch holes over 6 inches deep. Second if you are drilling a dowel hole in two pieces that have control surface like the tight fit stud you would have to drill then bore location 2% under reamer size then core a control ring about .0005 under reamer .050 deep then ream other wise you can have problems drills will not give you a hole right on location spot drills will not be right on location and reamers will push to a side slightly. The way he did this is common practice in tool shops.
@@terryallemann2654 ... apart from he drilled with a drill bit that was SMALLER than the hole in the toolpost device. So having the device present did not contribute any guide effect. It was all down to the dial-in based on the device. Then the device did not need to be there lol.
@@wizrom3046 The guide hole was to hold the reamer on location I would not care if hole was a couple off one way or the other.
@@terryallemann2654 ... yeah there are 2 ways to do the job.
1. You can use the dial on the guide hole, set the mill XY, and then use a stiff centre drill to establish the pilot hole in the workpiece in the correct XY position. In that case the guide hole is no longer needed and should be removed.
2. You mechanically use the guide hole, with a transfer device like a transfer punch or drill bit of the exact same size. Hopefully that will establish the pilot hole in the correct location but causes 2 problems; that drill bit is too big to ream later, or something might go wrong with the transfer punch mark when you drill with a smaller pilot drill.
What he did in the video was dial in the mill XY to the guide hole (good) but then started the holes in the workpiece with no centre drill, no punch, and with a long flexible drill bit. That obviously can cause XY error because fhe pilot drill is smaller than the guide hole in the toolpost..
Then, he reamed using the guide hole. That is a bad idea because the greatest force on the reamer is the new pilot hole which is a few thou smaller than the reamer, and it will centre the reamer on the pilot hole. That centering force of fhe pilot hole is much greater than the centering force of the larger guide hole which is a slide fit around the reamer. So if there was xy error it does not fix it, the reamer follows the pilot (XY error) hole, and chews out the side wall of the guide hole destroying the guide toolpost...
In my opinion, the best way to do this job was to dial in the XY, then remove the guide hole toolpost, then use a short stiff centre drill and then a normal pilot drill and then ream. All 3 of those ops would have been far better and easier without the superfluous and deep guide hole getting in the way.
@@wizrom3046 With the little machine experience I have I still stand that the way clough42 and the tool holder manufactured recommended is the better way to insure every thing lines up.
I like how you put the fusion drawing on the lathe shield for reference. I’m stealing that idea! Great as always!!
Magnets are awesome for that.
What a beutiful job! Great machining.
Very good. I have sent this to a couple of friends. {I've never done that before!) lol.
Excellent part. I mounted my PeWe tool post recently and had the same idea but didn’t have quite enough material, so made a boss with a through hole and just put a bolt in it. Sometimes having a lathe means you over complicate things to make them on the lathe 😂
Excellent work and very informative and entertaining presentation. Paul, Scot.
a real treat to watch! Thank you so much.
Nice result ,painting was a good decision.
Machining 4140 on a small lathe is tough. Obviously it depends on the insert too, but I have similar experience to yours - I got a good chip only when pushing it a bit harder. For me it was at least 0.22-0.25mm per revolution, so more like 10 thou. I have lathes big enough to handle it, but on a smaller lathe, yeah, pretty tough.
I'm being Interested in casting For my 12 by 36 jet Thanks another great video
I made an adjustable stop that fits the taper in the spindle of my lathe that I use when I feel the part may slide back during machining.
great !
i ordered the same stuff there also.
Could you add a "stop" in the electronic lead screw software for Threading operations or for any turning to a shoulder?
This is my favorite channel. Another great video.
As always, I really enjoy your videos. I was wondering if you will be sharing a comparison video that shows the relative rigidity between the lathe prior to the gib retrofit and the post multifix toolpost. That migration seems like it is very significant, and makes this little lathe a lot more powerful.
Test with 08 radius insert, that's the best way to check rigidity gain.
And for indicating the tool holder, better to use the inside of the tool groove, it's much better geometry wise.
Very nice James. Good job.
Im in England and I heard Abom cry out when you saiddepth now at 2 tenths of an inch.
According to Buck, Rolm and I imagine others, six jaw chucks don’t have the same gripping power that three jaw chucks do. Removing three of the jaws don’t change that, they lessen it, and can cause problems when the other three jaws are put back as you now have uneven wear on the jaws, to the point that the jaws that aren’t used as much, have less wear on the teeth and won’t grip properly. Just something to think about.
Great job, especially with the mixed US and metric units, my head was spinning :)
Very beautiful, I'm jealous😊
Thanks James now I have get more tools……..darn it.
I've got a question about the threading at 6:38. There you stopped when the thread was very tight. I was thinking that you wouldn't want to have the thread this tight, because you want to let the faces make the alignment. If the thread is really tight, and not perfectly orthogonal to the face, it might keep the faces from completely touching. If there is a bit of play in the thread, it would be align itself on the face.
In this case it should be perfectly fine, because the thread and face was cut in the same setup on both parts.
Since the threading and the shoulder were done in the same setup, it shouldn't be an issue, assuming the hole is square.
Awesome project James! Thanks for the great content on your channel, love the way jou talk the viewer through your train of thought. I have a question regarding this rigid setup, if you don't mind... How would one go about cutting single point threads ons a fixed post like this? Please excuse if it's a silly question, but I don't have much machining experience yet. Massive enthusiast though, learning as much as I can from yours, Adam, Curtis and Quinn's content as possible. Hoping to start my own "mini" engineering shop soon.
Being a rank novice myself, my comments are throwaway, at best, but I believe his electronic leadscrew setup affords significantly more leeway (especially regarding single-point threading) where a more traditional, analog setup simply couldn't.
I'm not really sure what you could extrapolate from that, other than "Invest in your own Clough42 electronic leadscrew project today!"
But, there you go. 🫣
I would be interested in one of the castings!
Great plan great execution
As usual great video. While you were concerned with stopping in the groove for the thread, I had an idea. Since you perfected the electronic leadscrew, why not program the screw to stop at end of thread. Microswitch, another function and led to indicate in the stop thread Mode.
Maybe even building in a autoreverse thread for metric. Just a thought.
Thanks for your content. I'm just checking if I can find a way to fit a multifix from PeWe to my lathe 🙂
Score! That's pretty impressive performance.
Would love to have one of these castings as well for my machine!
James, as always, an amazing informative video. As many others have mentioned I too would love to get my hands on one of the tool post castings. Any idea if you plan on selling them? And thanks again for all the VFD/ELS videos! Every time I use my G0602 now I smile and thank you! Awesome upgrade!!
Great job James. Very nice setup
Interested to see how threading goes now, whether the increased rigidity, from the solid toolpost, will offset the increased cutting pressure from cutting on two thread faces vs. cutting on one thread face using the compound, and up to what size thread this is still the case.
I recently cut a whole batch of 10 TPI parts in EN1a steel with a solid toolpost on an Emco V8 with no problem whatsoever.
New to the Channel, James. Lovin’ it. Thanks.
Regarding flats, one of my instructors always uses an adjustable wrench because he thinks it provides a better and less damaging grip.
Sweet upgrade.
Hey James, I have thought of similarly tossing out my compound, and attaching tool post to the cross slide after watching Rob Renz's video a few years ago, however I could not find out how you turn good threads without the compound. Or rather, I could not get past Marc L'Ecuyer and Joe Pieczynski both teaching me how to thread using the compound.
I guess a DRO on my lathe would at least help me keep track of thread depth and where my starts are if I ditch the compound... ?
I always tighten the Gibs on my denham junior but this really makes me think I should be doing away with the compound, don't use it much anyhow.
Thank you.
Sweet upgrade. 👍👍
Great Job , Question how do you go about turning small tapers And threading useing this tool post , Thanks
Turned out nice James! Should be a game changer upgrade !
Pro tip: To align small short parts on the lathe, I grip them lightly a little further out than I want them and then use the tailstock face to push them square and as deep as I want into the chuck before cranking it tight. For larger parts like brake rotors for example, the best bet is to screw some aluminum risers true after bolting them on the chuck face (Joe Pie video: Improve the parallelism of your 3 jaw chuck), but parallels and random stuff touching on my chuck's face never worked acceptably well for me. Maybe easier to do on a dead true brand new chuck but mine isn't (still grips within 15-20microns after boring my jaws true with a CBN insert)
PS: If it was my build I would have went for 2 hollow dowels to align the toolpost riser on the cross-slide, I would align the toolpost with a toolholder clamped to be parallel to the crosslide travel, in order to always have the whole thing perfectly straight with the pin in the correct and defined position (the dowels would also prevent misalignment in case of a crash). Also what I do when having to ream something through a guide is I ream the first couple of mm and then remove the guide the ream the rest of the depth. It will even work with drills and if you are careful and setup everything properly, you will get almost the exact same tolerance and fit with the guide/pilot hole you prepared/used.
Some people make a tool for thier tool post with a ball bearing you push against youir work and turn the chuck by hand and the ball bearing will square the part. Its great for getting parts close quick.
Really enjoy your videos buddy. Considering you established a somewhat partnership with the casting company. My suggestion is the paint the raised letters black. Keep up the great work!
Exelente herramienta muy buena yo ví cuando ví el modelo de plástico y esto es el final 🙏 perfecto Amigo
Nice job .CLEAN!!!!!
200 off at one cut is GRRREEATTTT. I'm lucky to get 20 to 30 on my WW2 10"
But what about your compound slide James? Don't you want to turn parts at a specific angle, or are you gonna convert the machine to CNC?
Awesome project as always. Do you have projects coming up that use the CNC router?
Thanks for sharing 👍
I'd definitely be interested in that casting, though what are the dimensions? I have a 12x36 lathe, not sure it'd be big enough. Is the multi-fix a BXA equivilent? Thanks for sharing! looks great.
No dowel pins between riser and cross-slide?
Gotta have some adjustability somewhere, unless you plan on machining it perfectly. That seems like the best place, considering the large moment arms and multiple fasteners.