Having the ground conductor UP is safer in general. This was the recommendation of our State electrical inspector. Also, I don't think it is an issue of code but rather best practices. I believe you can install a receptacle facing any direction but facing up.
Comedy - so, how do you make vertical installations safer. Said another way, this is right up there with the argument about whether the ground prong goes up or down. That aside, good little video. Thanks.
"how do you make vertical installations safer"? Ground prong above hot&neutral prongs If the weight of the cord causes the plug to begin to come out then only the ground is exposed to the working environment. All outlets I install vertically are this direction. It may never save a life, but its "free" safety. And if it does save a life, it's worth way more than pearls. In a shop where you might move thin steel cables around, etc., I would change them if they were not in this orientation.
Receptacles facing up are used in conference rooms, libraries, and places that have a need for power to be supplied [usualy to tables] that are frequently moved. They are a safety feature so there are no wires crossing floors to wall outlets that people could trip on. They must have covers to cover the exposed [unused] receptacles.
CAUTION: Split wire outlets requires a "SINGLE" dual 20 amp breaker for such situations, so if one receptacle pops, they both pop. Otherwise you would have a live power situation on one receptacle in the same outlet box when troubleshooting. You do a nice job on your videos......
As a DIY'er, you are my go to guy for electrical... given the number of views and likes, your obviously a great teacher of the trade. I can't tell you how easy your video's are to understand and execute. I hope you make a ton of money from youtube as you deserve it!
My dad was an electrician, and I picked up just enough to be dangerous when I do everything myself. This confirmed a lot of very useful things for me all in one video. Appreciate it very much. I'm in one of the Watergate buildings, and they wired two circuits to almost every receptacle in the unit.
A good practice is to always wrap electrical tape around your receptacle to prevent arcing when placing back in the box in case one wire happens to be touching , so when you turn the power back on you don't go BOOM ! And you end up having to change your pants because you just had the crap scared out of you. Just a two or three wraps will do. This only applies to a metal box. Plastic boxes don't need that
I always look forward to these videos, you always put in little details that are "best practices", like having neutrals up when it's sideways or why you might want two separate circuits. This stuff might be common knowledge for contractors but, for average Joe, it's great info to include.
Hello Ben, Greetings from Canada. I see you published this a while back so things may have changed but here is my suggestion. When I do an outlet of this type, I generally use 3 conductor wire and a common neutral (it only carries the difference current provided the two circuits use L1 and L2 for source power). Additionally, I always feed this type of plug from a 2-Pole Breaker as that ensures you always get L1 and L2. Additionally, you will never think the power is turned off at the panel when it is only “half off”. This type of wiring is not normally used here in Canada as it requires a 2-Pole GFCI Breaker to feed it and those breakers are fairly expensive.
I believe code requires that you use a dual-pole breaker if you do this type of split - that way you guarantee that both halves are dead when one is switched off.
I did this in my kitchen. We ran 220 in the wall---then split it at the receptacle so each socket was on 110. You could plug all manner of appliances into these without the breaker tripping.
Same here. This breaker setup is dangerous. If someone works on the box but doesn't realize both breakers have to be thrown they could easily get electrocuted.
Your breakers numbers 28 and 30 should be a double pole breaker or two single poles tied together. That way if one circuit trips, they'll both trip and make the box safe to work on.
The top plug in my outlet is controlled by a wall switch, the bottom one is always on. I did what you did and broke both tabs, the neutral (silver screws) and the hot (brass screws) and installed the new outlet; but the switch and outlet did not work. So I threw that one away and got another only broke off the hot tab (brass screw side) and now it works fine. Maybe this will help another amateur. Hey I didn't electrocute myself! Thank you for posting the video.
You could have used a white(common/neutral) pigtail to connect to each of the (now isolated) silver screws and then wire-nut the neutral to those pigtails. [ Cost = 2 short pigtails and 1 wire nut ] Of course, buying a new outlet is cheap and easy [ Cost = $1-$2 ]
Is this what may have happened in my case? I replaced the outlets and I didn't break anything off like the video and my stove outlet has 2 hots etccc...when I turned the power on I heard a loud pop and it then tripped and haven't figured it out since
very good video ben the only thing i would have done im a electrician place tape around the outlet in the event the outlet touches the side of box n also if you work on it hot you dont get a zap. keep up the videos
@Ron Gosling My guess is use wire nuts to accomodate any additional conductors in there, and only connect one wire to the device where one wire is supposed to be... or put another way dont use connections to the device to join wires, use wire nuts.
Benjamin, Although I find you to be very thorough and in almost every case correct, you have missed the mark of total excellence on this video. We all make mistakes! Even you! 😊. Please read 2011 NEC Article 210.7 Multiple Branch Circuits. It reads as follows: Where two or more branch circuits supply devices or equipment on the same yoke, a means to simultaneously disconnect the ungrounded conductors supplying those devices shall be provided at the point at which the branch circuits originate. So, your two single pole breakers as shown do not comply. You have two choices, change breakers from two single to two pole, or buy a handle tie for less than $2.00 each and put across the breakers. Respectfully, Kevin
@@KevinCoop1 If that's the case, which i believe it to be, what's the point in even splitting the 2 outlets. If one trips it will cause the other to trip. So what advantage would there be to what was displayed in this video.
B Mpower With a two pole breaker both would trip. With the add on handles that can be bought, the trip independently. The reason for the handle is for disconnection of power of both conductors on the same neutral.
You must not mix up the neutrals because each circuit must have its own closed loop. If you mix 2 different circuits you could overload a neutral wire and it may not trip the breaker.
@@leelfmIn this case, with 2 completely separate circuits, you need to break both. In a multi wire branch circuit which has a shared neutral, you only break the hot side and if it's a switched receptacle where one socket is on all the time and the other one is switched and they are on the same circuit, again only break the hot side.
Is there any reason fro you not wrapping the plug with electrical tape to prevent shorting to the metal box. I enjoy watching your videos because I built my own home. I did all the work myself and did it as I had money to do it.
raymond knapp Jr Thanks for your comment! I'll definitely be adding electrical tape if and when I work on that receptacle again. Just didn't think to do it. Wow! I love that you built your own house and did it as you saved. That's EXACTLY what my wife and I have been doing. Took 4 years to save the cash to buy the place and for the past nearly 3 years we saved and worked on it as we could. It's finally getting to the point where we're able to enjoy the reward of all the blood sweat and tears. How long did it take you to build/finish your place?
I really don't want to tell you how long it took. It was about 19 year. The only loan we had to have was $25,000 for putting in AC, Final heating system and furniture. I started with a 20' X 30' Quonset hut with no basement. I how I have a 3,500 sq ft home with a finished basement. Is the picture on your facebook the house you are redoing? I see a challenge for you. With some of the inside pictures of your home looks like you are really doing good. Oh we did the building while we lived in the house and my wife ran a daycare. I do have stories. My wife passed because of pulmonary hypertension so I am in a big house. I am now starting a Bee Farm business putting hives on peoples properties. Hope to hear from you again.
raymond knapp Jr That's impressive! Yes, that is the house before we started working on it in that picture. It's changed a lot since then for sure! My dad has honey bees too and enjoys doing that in his spare time. What state are you in out of curiosity? Also, sorry to hear if your wife's passing. That's tough.
I am from central Iowa. I am retired now and have started K & H Bee Farm, LLC. I am wondering how your father's bees did this year. I am finishing my first year doing bees and lost two nucs and one hive. I still have one hive that is going.
As stated it should have been wired with a locking device that shuts off both circuits at the same time (per national code).45+years as a master electrician speaking ...
I have 2 split outlets in our kitchen, but they have a single wire on the neutral side with the tab still in place and the tab removed on the Hot side.
Now they've made another change in the code, and want all split wired receptacles wired into one double pole breaker so instead of turning off 2 breakers, you only turn off 1.
I love these videos because they give non electricians enough confidence to create more problems leading to more calls to actual electricians to fix the mess they've created. The only problem .... Some people will likely end up dead. Please leave wiring to the pros.
My dishwasher and garbage disposal were wired like this during a kitchen remodel. Separate circuits with GD also on a switch. But when I put a three prong circuit tester in each socket today they both indicate "open ground". Isn't that a problem? The remodel was 12 years ago and they both work fine.
I get the point you're making, but doubt that this is an issue, the tabs are designed for this purpose. To put this in perspective, in an automotive example an ignition coil supplies 20k volts to make a spark jump a .8mm gap in a spark plug. You can use a spec grade receptacle which has a much greater than 5mm gap. Furthermore, in order to turn off this outlet so both receptacles are off, the circuits must originate from a double pole breaker or 2 single pole breakers that are pinned. This would, by default, make the circuits out of phase.
Benjamin, would you do a video where you have power source coming into a single outlet and you want to make the outlet a half hot THEN using the same outlet, pull power from it for a switched light. Of course, all the while leaving the always hot part of the half hot with constant power. Basically just need to know how to run a switched light off a half hot plug. Thanks in advance.
This sounds dumb, I know, but what if you forget to break that tab? (This set up was for one outlet being on a slim/off switch and the other always on as you mention at the end of your video.) outlet is dead and breaker won’t reset..both of these breakers have a metal clip keeping them in the same position.
Depending on your State, you can easily fail the inspection because this is a common reachable area for kids and you didn't use a tamper-proof receptacle.
I'm no electrician, but with having a split receptacle, does that mean you can get 240V if you use both plugs to power a device if required? Assuming that's only if the wires are correctly placed in the breaker. It would make sense considering (based on the video), you have the breakers plugged between phase to phase.
0:40 You only need to remove the Load (Black wire - brace screw side) tab and not the neutral (Silver side or white wire) with the same mentality as you kept it only to one ground.
This is not a MWBC so both tabs must be broken for 2 separate circuits. However, the circuits should originate from a double pole breaker or 2 single pole breakers that are pinned together. This is a safety feature if the receptacle is removed later and the homeowner doesn't realize that there are 2 separate circuits. I don't think Benjamin mentioned this, but should have.
Awesome instructional video. I came across it while trying to trouble shoot a dishwasher problem. Dishwasher outlet is split with disposal and the disposal is on a switch which seems acceptable. The house is a couple of years old and the dishwasher has worked fine until recently losses power. I have reset the breaker, messed with the circuit board, and even replaced the internal fuse. It works for a while then not. Today I used an extension cord, plugged the dishwasher to another plug and got the dishes done. My question is what could have caused this over time. Is the breaker weakening or could a wire have come loose that causes this sporadically to throw the breaker. Should I place a separate outlet there? Is this a problem that occurs as a result of a wire getting loose over time? Appreciate any input.
Sounds like a loose wire in the box at the outlet. Electricity vibrates, and will loosen the screws or break the wires if using stab outlets, where you physically push the wire into a hole in the back of the outlet and it is secured via a tab locking device. If newer construction, my guess is they used those cheap .50 contractor outlets and switches in the home. I have seen those quite a bit in new construction, and I would recommend replacing all of them in the house with a quality switch/outlets like Leviton produces. I am not an electrician, and if you do not feel comfortable doing this kind of repair, I would hire a licensed electrician.
The answer is no. GFCI can not be split. They have a line and load pair of screws. The line detects faults while the load provides protection to other outlets. Modern code replaces kitchen split 15s with a single 20 amp gicf.
Not 100% sure, but I think you can do this with a double pole breaker and 12-3 wire, aka mwbc. You would need 2 GFCI receptacles with the black wire to one and the red wire to the other and a shared neutral. The neutral wire would be pigtailed to the first one and terminated on the second. Attach hot wires and neutral wire to line only and load must remain unused and cannot be used to protect receptacles downstream.
Thanks for the video. Quick question. How can i do a split for a switch and outlet, as you mention, but where the switch is a dimmer. They are on separate circuits. I want to keep the dimmer but add an outlet for the other circuit. Thanks!
@BenjaminSahlstrom: Thank you for this video. I am trying to replace a setup like this with a GCFI. How do I do that, since a GCFI will only handle one circuit?
If you're sure there are two circuits and you want GFCI, I would simply cap off the wires for the second circuit one use one of the two. Would be smart to see which circuit has less load on it so that you can balance the loads on the circuits as much as possible. Good luck!
Question... What do you know about ghost voltage on half the outlet if only one of the breakers are off and the same goes for a half switched outlet? From the research I have done this is common.......what can you tell me.
I have a split wire connection but only has one neutral wire? It does have the two hot wires. One goes to my dishwasher and the other goes to a switch for my disposal. Now the disposal won't turn off
Benjamin, You have most likely done a NEC violation. It is required to put a single receptacle that is 20 ampere rated if it is the only receptacle on the 20 ampere circuit. Even though they are now single receptacles, they are both on one yoke. I’m not sure how it would be interpreted. But as a design engineer, I would make it a 20 amp receptacle, not a 15. I know that you will most likely never have any appliance that has a 20 amp plug, but code is code. Respectfully, Kevin
You make a very good point, but if this is an end of the run receptacle with others upstream, I would think that this is okay as it would not be a dedicated circuit. I think the code violation is not using a double pole breaker or at least tying the 2 single poles together.
love the video! i do have a question, i removed a light in my garage and i place a 15 amp outlet thinking that my light switch would work, to turn off and on my two shop lights however when i remove the light fixture it had 7 wires 2 black 2 whites 2 grounds and 1 red wire. so test the line, one of the blacks was hot. i connect 1 back 1 white and ground to the outlet all work find , however light switch didn't turn on or off the lights also looks like the other 4 wires that i did not use are connected to my kitchen so had no lights there. grr. could you please give me any ideas how to make this work...
Is this how to fix the problem of having both light switch outlet/prongs wired the same? Basically, if I turn off the light, then the tv goes off as well? Thank you!
Hello, how is a cut 15 amp ceiling light circuit is repaired? I was thinking adding a junction box were the cut is and splicing the greenfield cable together. Its a two wire cable and the sheathing is the ground.
Love your video. I have a 440v 3phase outlet. If I connect each of the 3 hot wires to the each hot socket of the 3 split phase outlets, the neutral to each neutral socket and the ground to each ground socket of the 3 split phase outlets can I then make 3 split phase 220v outlets?
OK. All the outlets in my old kitchen are wired this way - and of course - there is no gfci protection in this house. Is there a gfci outlet with separate gfci protection on each outlet? :)
They make GFCI breakers. And I hate those GFCI outlets. They are only good for a few years and then they need to be replaced, And God forbid you have one on the same circuit as a refrigerator or chest freezer... Been there, done that. I removed mine and installed regular Leviton outlets. We have lasted a hundred plus years without them...
AT 2:32 First. does it matter if the neutral wires are paired to the correct load ? Second why break the connector between the two neutrals on the plug?
If its a GFCI breaker it would most likely trip if you got the wrong neutral. Might not do it all the time but if you used both circuits it most likely would. The newer code also requires the breakers to be tied so they both are off if one is tripped. So the current way is to avoid this type of outlet, and just use a 20 amp outlet or have two outlets separated.
Cutting the break out fins does not make it a switched outlet...it makes it a split wired outlet. One common reason for doing this is to control one outlet of the receptacle with a switch. Another reason is to have two 15 amp breakers in one duplex, which can be advantageous in any kind of work shop, commercial kitchen, bar, or really anywhere equipment with a high amp draw is used.
+jragadio Great suggestion! I referenced a wiring book on fill requirements during my project and I believe I was still within the allowable fill. I'll definitely see if I can make a video on that. Yes, both of the receptacles were GFCI and AFCI as required per code. I did this using a dual function breaker in the main panel rather that by using an AFCI breaker with GFCI outlets. I like the cleaner feel with the kitchen outlets all being the same albeit if it does trip someone has to run down to the panel to reset it which is a tad less convenient.
Help me please I have a 125v 60hz blower and my current is 110v. Before I had a cheap outlet and it got very hot and we burned it and it lit up. Now change it for one from 127 to 250v, but I'm afraid to connect the blower. You think that nothing happens since in my country the current is 110 but the blower that I bought online says 125v help me what do I do.... Ayudame por favor tengo un blower de 125v 60hz y mi corrien en de 110v. Ante tenia un tomacorriente barato y se calentaba mucho y se quemos y se encendió. Ahora lo cambien por uno de 127 a 250v, pero tengo miedo de conectar el blower. Crees que no pase nada ya que en mi país la corriente es de 110 pero el blower que compré por internet dice 125v ayúdame que hago....
No workie. Did as directed but no workie mon? Q: Are both black wires supposed to be hot? My tester says only one black is hot so is that the problem outlet does not work? Do I tape off the one, not hot black wire?. ..signed: Challenged in FloriDuh
Make sure when you do this that you do not accidentally swap the neutrals to the wrong screw on the outlet. The neutral must go with its own hot wire even though the circuit will still work with swapped neutrals. Also I like to push the wires into the box with the end of a hammer handle.
All neutrals are connected to the same bar in the panel. It does not matter which neutral goes where, unless he is using non traditional tandem single pole breaker.
I have a receptacle with 2 hot wires, 1 ground and only 1 neutral. I guess the metal clip is only snipped off on the hot side. Is this acceptable? Two separate 15A circuits but if I try to run two high wattage appliances a circuit will blow. Do I need to get this rewired to a 4-wire+grnd line?
Pphhhht what you have is mostly a switched receptacle which means u have a SP switch controlling one side of it, it’s practically the same as a split. What you have should be fine assuming you have the proper wire
Check if the source of the hots is the same single breaker. If so, one of the hots to the receptacle could be switched then not a problem. Otherwise I'd be concerned of only having only 1 neutral. If there are heavy loads on different sourced lives, it could overload the neutral making it overheat.
lenn55 You only have to break out the neutral tab if you are using power from two different circuits. If you were split wiring just to switch one half of the receptacle and were using power from the same circuit then you would not need to remove the neutral tab. Hope that makes sense for you!
The way Benjamin is wiring, he has no phase restrictions on how he wires the socket. You can share the neutral if the sockets are on separate phases (think dual circuit breaker). If the two hots are separate phases, they can share a common neutral with the neutral only having to carry the difference in the current being supplied by the two phases. If on the other hand, both sockets were on the same phase, then the neutral would have to carry the sum of the current being supplied by both phases and as such be overloaded. In any case, I'd recommend if you have a split socket that you have both circuit breakers linked so both would be turned off at the same time to prevent issues with someone working on the socket thinking it's dead because they turned off the breaker and then getting a bit of a surprise when they get into the junction box and finding a live circuit.
I am amazed some of the people showing e video how to install an outlet do such a terrible job. Please if you put a wire into a receptacle, tied the wire around the screw in a perfect loop then tie the screw./ You don't need to be electrician to know this. and use electrical tape when finish connections, to hold everything safe. murillo
I'm a novice to all this. But you mentioned "when using a 20amp circuit". Isn't that a 15 amp receptacle? Wouldn't it have the extra notch crossing the neutral notch if it was a 20 amp receptacle? Edit - nevermind, I just read where you can use a 15 amp receptacle with a 20 amp circuit breaker.
Scott Harrod, You are observant and partially correct. In some places, mostly larger cities, that you must use a 20amp rated outlet device as well as a 20amp or more rated copper wire going to the outlet, according to code. 15amp service is restricted to circuits for lights being used in the circuit. It is never wise to allow an outlet that will accept a device more that draws more current (amps) than the circuit is designed for. That includes the wire and the breakers.
Sounds a bit basakwards. From years of electronics for the fed, we knew we could increase the capacity of cables and termination point items, but we could NEVER go down (add components and wiring) capable of less than the circuit was designed to carry. Aside the fact I don't cheap out and install fourteen gauge outlet circuits, I buy all 20 amp outlets because they tend to be built better. If I hit a big box, I can get clamp type terminations, versus loops or the stab in connections I abhor. The heavier duty outlets hold up better over the years. Putting an outlet with more amp capacity, obviously, will not alter whether someone plugs a heater or a 40 watt trouble lamp, a jointer or table saw into the outlet. All the general public sees is an outlet. Nor will it cause the circuit to be overloaded.
Lucky Joestar You are mostly correct, but if you check, I think you may find that you can place 15 a devices on 20 a circuit if there are multiple receptacles. If dedicated circuit, then it changes and needs to be 20 amp receptacle.
Danger Benjamin Sahlstrom Danger!! You have connected two constitutive breakers that are connected to two different legs of the main service panel. This will carry 220 volts to the outlet box that you just wired. I do not know any codes in the USA that will allow this. Correct me if I am wrong.
Excellent point. I honestly am unsure as to the legality of this so I appreciate you pointing this out. Would you resolve this by moving one of the breakers in order to have both being fed by the same leg? Again, thanks for the comment an please post any code references that you may have regarding this. Blessings, Ben
@@BenjaminSahlstrom On a single phase house main electrical panel there are 2 separate phase 120 volt power lines that enter the home. (see: ua-cam.com/video/J6Q4JrCpRVk/v-deo.html). He is long winded but shows the panel well. The best and easiest solution for you right now is to move the hot wire from the #30 breaker to the #32 breaker, and move the hot wire from the #32 breaker to the #30 breaker. I would first pull the breakers out of the box, then disconnect and reconnect the wires before moving the wires. Better yet, throw the main breaker switch so it would be safe. This would keep the two separate circuits that are going to the outlet box on the same 120 volt leg keeping the hot voltage reaching the outlet box at a safe 120 volts, but a on different circuits. Having 220 volts going to the one outlet box is dangerous. Square D, which is the premier service panel line for the industry, makes a 2x20 Amp Single-Pole Tandem Circuit Breaker that you can use to have 2 circuits on the same Circuit Breaker. Most Square D main electrical panels will accommodate so many of them for use for expansion. If the outlet is near any water than you should be using a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) circuit breaker. As to code references, every city/town /state has different degrees of intensities of their codes, but I'm sure that none will allow a 220v line connecting to a 120v rated outlet. Hope this helps.
This is not prohibited by code and has the advantage that the neutral can be shared and will only carry the difference between the two circuits if both are supplying appliances at the same time. By code you still need the double pole breaker though. This used to be quite commonly done but I am not sure the GFCI function can work with a shared neutral. There is no advantage to doing it if the neutral wire can't be shared.
@@jimagles1394 Having a receptacle box that is set up as a split circuit, that is fed by two separate breakers from the service panel is not prohibited by code. What is prohibited by code is that the current going to a single receptacle box from the service panel is wired to different phases, each being from a different 120vAC supply. This will make the power to the box as a 240vAC supply line going to a 120vAC receptacle. Since the wires will be grounded the box is now 240vAC. This is dangerous and against any electrical codes. See: timeline 4:08 to 4:16. Circuit breaker 28 is connected to one phase leg 120vAC and Circuit breaker 30 is connected to the other phase leg of 120vAC, coming into the panel, supplying 240vAC to the receptacle box. To do this correctly, both breakers need to be on the same phase leg. See ua-cam.com/video/J6Q4JrCpRVk/v-deo.html See timeline 4:30 to 9:00. 120vAC hurts, 240vAC kills. As far as neutral wires being shared, all ground wires need to be joined to ground, and all common, neutral, wires [from separate breakers] need to be connected somehow to complete a circuit.
Having the ground conductor UP is safer in general. This was the recommendation of our State electrical inspector. Also, I don't think it is an issue of code but rather best practices. I believe you can install a receptacle facing any direction but facing up.
Comedy - so, how do you make vertical installations safer. Said another way, this is right up there with the argument about whether the ground prong goes up or down.
That aside, good little video. Thanks.
"how do you make vertical installations safer"?
Ground prong above hot&neutral prongs
If the weight of the cord causes the plug to begin to come out
then only the ground is exposed to the working environment.
All outlets I install vertically are this direction.
It may never save a life, but its "free" safety.
And if it does save a life, it's worth way more than pearls.
In a shop where you might move thin steel cables around, etc., I would change them if they were not in this orientation.
Receptacles facing up are used in conference rooms, libraries, and places that have a need for power to be supplied [usualy to tables] that are frequently moved. They are a safety feature so there are no wires crossing floors to wall outlets that people could trip on. They must have covers to cover the exposed [unused] receptacles.
This is correct. In the event that something metallic falls on an exposed plug, The item will hit the ground.
There is no NEC requirement for which way to put the ground but I always put mine up just because it is safer.
CAUTION:
Split wire outlets requires a "SINGLE" dual 20 amp breaker for such situations, so if one receptacle pops, they both pop.
Otherwise you would have a live power situation on one receptacle in the same outlet box when troubleshooting.
You do a nice job on your videos......
Then what would be the point of the spit wire receptacle?
As a DIY'er, you are my go to guy for electrical... given the number of views and likes, your obviously a great teacher of the trade. I can't tell you how easy your video's are to understand and execute. I hope you make a ton of money from youtube as you deserve it!
My dad was an electrician, and I picked up just enough to be dangerous when I do everything myself. This confirmed a lot of very useful things for me all in one video. Appreciate it very much. I'm in one of the Watergate buildings, and they wired two circuits to almost every receptacle in the unit.
This is the very video I was looking for, it's so hard to find videos of what I'm thinking. You're videos are great, I've watched many of them.
A good practice is to always wrap electrical tape around your receptacle to prevent arcing when placing back in the box in case one wire happens to be touching , so when you turn the power back on you don't go BOOM ! And you end up having to change your pants because you just had the crap scared out of you. Just a two or three wraps will do. This only applies to a metal box. Plastic boxes don't need that
We’re replacing an old split outlet and have been struggling with it all day. Thank you SO much for explaining about breaking the tabs.
I always look forward to these videos, you always put in little details that are "best practices", like having neutrals up when it's sideways or why you might want two separate circuits. This stuff might be common knowledge for contractors but, for average Joe, it's great info to include.
Hello Ben, Greetings from Canada. I see you published this a while back so things may have changed but here is my suggestion. When I do an outlet of this type, I generally use 3 conductor wire and a common neutral (it only carries the difference current provided the two circuits use L1 and L2 for source power). Additionally, I always feed this type of plug from a 2-Pole Breaker as that ensures you always get L1 and L2. Additionally, you will never think the power is turned off at the panel when it is only “half off”. This type of wiring is not normally used here in Canada as it requires a 2-Pole GFCI Breaker to feed it and those breakers are fairly expensive.
This video saved me alot of hastle after finding out (the shocking way) that split circuits like this exist in my new (used) home. Thanks!
I believe code requires that you use a dual-pole breaker if you do this type of split - that way you guarantee that both halves are dead when one is switched off.
I think you can use 2 single pole breakers as long as they are next to each other and pinned.
@@surferdude642 you thereby made a dual pole breaker. That is all dual pole breakers are, two breakers linked together to trip at the same time.
I did this in my kitchen. We ran 220 in the wall---then split it at the receptacle so each socket was on 110. You could plug all manner of appliances into these without the breaker tripping.
This is very handy in the kitchen when using the toaster and electric griddle. I like my toast and bacon done at the same time.
Code where I am requires those two 15 amp breakers be tied together so if one trips, the other trips, or the use of a single dual breaker.
Same here. This breaker setup is dangerous. If someone works on the box but doesn't realize both breakers have to be thrown they could easily get electrocuted.
Your breakers numbers 28 and 30 should be a double pole breaker or two single poles tied together. That way if one circuit trips, they'll both trip and make the box safe to work on.
When mounted sideways the grounded conductor as stated will be the last to break connection when pulled in a downward position = CORRECT PER CODE
The top plug in my outlet is controlled by a wall switch, the bottom one is always on. I did what you did and broke both tabs, the neutral (silver screws) and the hot (brass screws) and installed the new outlet; but the switch and outlet did not work. So I threw that one away and got another only broke off the hot tab (brass screw side) and now it works fine. Maybe this will help another amateur. Hey I didn't electrocute myself! Thank you for posting the video.
You could have used a white(common/neutral) pigtail to connect to each of the (now isolated) silver screws and then wire-nut the neutral to those pigtails. [ Cost = 2 short pigtails and 1 wire nut ]
Of course, buying a new outlet is cheap and easy [ Cost = $1-$2 ]
I'm from the us, but I'll tell ya what I don't miss American receptacles. Schuko has won me over. Check them out, they're pretty cool.
Thank you, been having problems replacing duplex receptacles.
That panel is one of the best I've seen. Your work is really neat.
Good you mentioned the removal of the breakoff tab, most people burn their fuses for not doing that.
Is this what may have happened in my case? I replaced the outlets and I didn't break anything off like the video and my stove outlet has 2 hots etccc...when I turned the power on I heard a loud pop and it then tripped and haven't figured it out since
I can't break or split the wires. The outlet has copper running behind the tab. Impossible to split. I can't find any video explaining this. ugh.
very good video ben the only thing i would have done im a electrician place tape around the outlet in the event the outlet touches the side of box n also if you work on it hot you dont get a zap. keep up the videos
+panama1965 Excellent tip!
Plastic box my friend ......also locking device so no power is on .....
Thank you! Needed to know how to remove the tab.
@Ron Gosling My guess is use wire nuts to accomodate any additional conductors in there, and only connect one wire to the device where one wire is supposed to be... or put another way dont use connections to the device to join wires, use wire nuts.
Benjamin, Although I find you to be very thorough and in almost every case correct, you have missed the mark of total excellence on this video. We all make mistakes! Even you! 😊. Please read 2011 NEC Article 210.7 Multiple Branch Circuits. It reads as follows: Where two or more branch circuits supply devices or equipment on the same yoke, a means to simultaneously disconnect the ungrounded conductors supplying those devices shall be provided at the point at which the branch circuits originate. So, your two single pole breakers as shown do not comply. You have two choices, change breakers from two single to two pole, or buy a handle tie for less than $2.00 each and put across the breakers. Respectfully, Kevin
Thanks Kevin! I might make a video showing exactly what you are talking about. Really appreciate the feedback!
Benjamin Sahlstrom It is ALWAYS easy to help someone who cares! Either in what they do, and about their video content. Very respectfully, Kevin
@@KevinCoop1 If that's the case, which i believe it to be, what's the point in even splitting the 2 outlets. If one trips it will cause the other to trip. So what advantage would there be to what was displayed in this video.
nevermind, i misunderstood "less likely to trip" i guess that makes sense.
B Mpower With a two pole breaker both would trip. With the add on handles that can be bought, the trip independently. The reason for the handle is for disconnection of power of both conductors on the same neutral.
Looks good, but I would run a piece of electrical tape around the outlet (over the connections) for extra safety.
Mi friend you save big money. Thank you
Very informative and helpful video. I appreciate your work
Thanks so much for useful information 💪💪💪
I was just wondering, what would happen if you were to mix up the neutrals? They both terminate to the same bus in the panel?
To your point, I saw another video that said you do not need break the neutral tab.
You must not mix up the neutrals because each circuit must have its own closed loop. If you mix 2 different circuits you could overload a neutral wire and it may not trip the breaker.
@@leelfmIn this case, with 2 completely separate circuits, you need to break both. In a multi wire branch circuit which has a shared neutral, you only break the hot side and if it's a switched receptacle where one socket is on all the time and the other one is switched and they are on the same circuit, again only break the hot side.
Very good information. Thank you!
Is there any reason fro you not wrapping the plug with electrical tape to prevent shorting to the metal box. I enjoy watching your videos because I built my own home. I did all the work myself and did it as I had money to do it.
raymond knapp Jr Thanks for your comment! I'll definitely be adding electrical tape if and when I work on that receptacle again. Just didn't think to do it.
Wow! I love that you built your own house and did it as you saved. That's EXACTLY what my wife and I have been doing. Took 4 years to save the cash to buy the place and for the past nearly 3 years we saved and worked on it as we could. It's finally getting to the point where we're able to enjoy the reward of all the blood sweat and tears. How long did it take you to build/finish your place?
I really don't want to tell you how long it took. It was about 19 year. The only loan we had to have was $25,000 for putting in AC, Final heating system and furniture. I started with a 20' X 30' Quonset hut with no basement. I how I have a 3,500 sq ft home with a finished basement. Is the picture on your facebook the house you are redoing? I see a challenge for you. With some of the inside pictures of your home looks like you are really doing good. Oh we did the building while we lived in the house and my wife ran a daycare. I do have stories. My wife passed because of pulmonary hypertension so I am in a big house. I am now starting a Bee Farm business putting hives on peoples properties. Hope to hear from you again.
raymond knapp Jr That's impressive! Yes, that is the house before we started working on it in that picture. It's changed a lot since then for sure!
My dad has honey bees too and enjoys doing that in his spare time. What state are you in out of curiosity? Also, sorry to hear if your wife's passing. That's tough.
I am from central Iowa. I am retired now and have started K & H Bee Farm, LLC. I am wondering how your father's bees did this year. I am finishing my first year doing bees and lost two nucs and one hive. I still have one hive that is going.
As stated it should have been wired with a locking device that shuts off both circuits at the same time (per national code).45+years as a master electrician speaking ...
looks like you have suffered more shocks then one.
Great video, thank you.
I have 2 split outlets in our kitchen, but they have a single wire on the neutral side with the tab still in place and the tab removed on the Hot side.
Thank you! Right on point👍
Thank you for the help.
Man you make it simple and clear. thanks
Now they've made another change in the code, and want all split wired receptacles wired into one double pole breaker so instead of turning off 2 breakers, you only turn off 1.
worked great for me thanks;,
I love these videos because they give non electricians enough confidence to create more problems leading to more calls to actual electricians to fix the mess they've created.
The only problem .... Some people will likely end up dead. Please leave wiring to the pros.
Thanks so much for your help
Nice vid om actually looking to do the same but I usually tape up the connections I case it ever shorts...
Those are some really big horseflies I hear buzzing around in the background
My dishwasher and garbage disposal were wired like this during a kitchen remodel. Separate circuits with GD also on a switch. But when I put a three prong circuit tester in each socket today they both indicate "open ground". Isn't that a problem? The remodel was 12 years ago and they both work fine.
Thanks dude.
I'm assuming that based on the location of your breakers, these are on different phases, meaning you have 240/208 volt potential across a
I get the point you're making, but doubt that this is an issue, the tabs are designed for this purpose. To put this in perspective, in an automotive example an ignition coil supplies 20k volts to make a spark jump a .8mm gap in a spark plug. You can use a spec grade receptacle which has a much greater than 5mm gap. Furthermore, in order to turn off this outlet so both receptacles are off, the circuits must originate from a double pole breaker or 2 single pole breakers that are pinned. This would, by default, make the circuits out of phase.
Benjamin, would you do a video where you have power source coming into a single outlet and you want to make the outlet a half hot THEN using the same outlet, pull power from it for a switched light. Of course, all the while leaving the always hot part of the half hot with constant power. Basically just need to know how to run a switched light off a half hot plug. Thanks in advance.
This sounds dumb, I know, but what if you forget to break that tab? (This set up was for one outlet being on a slim/off switch and the other always on as you mention at the end of your video.) outlet is dead and breaker won’t reset..both of these breakers have a metal clip keeping them in the same position.
Why not run 12/3 and utilize a multi wire branch circuit??
Thanks for sharing, please do a tool bag video.
+Pops McCartney I'll definitely work towards that!
benjamiin u would be a great property manager
Depending on your State, you can easily fail the inspection because this is a common reachable area for kids and you didn't use a tamper-proof receptacle.
I'm no electrician, but with having a split receptacle, does that mean you can get 240V if you use both plugs to power a device if required? Assuming that's only if the wires are correctly placed in the breaker.
It would make sense considering (based on the video), you have the breakers plugged between phase to phase.
8 months without a reply.
Be safe and call a qualified electrician.
0:40 You only need to remove the Load (Black wire - brace screw side) tab and not the neutral (Silver side or white wire) with the same mentality as you kept it only to one ground.
This is not a MWBC so both tabs must be broken for 2 separate circuits. However, the circuits should originate from a double pole breaker or 2 single pole breakers that are pinned together. This is a safety feature if the receptacle is removed later and the homeowner doesn't realize that there are 2 separate circuits. I don't think Benjamin mentioned this, but should have.
@@surferdude642 Interesting.🙏
Awesome instructional video. I came across it while trying to trouble shoot a dishwasher problem. Dishwasher outlet is split with disposal and the disposal is on a switch which seems acceptable. The house is a couple of years old and the dishwasher has worked fine until recently losses power. I have reset the breaker, messed with the circuit board, and even replaced the internal fuse. It works for a while then not. Today I used an extension cord, plugged the dishwasher to another plug and got the dishes done. My question is what could have caused this over time. Is the breaker weakening or could a wire have come loose that causes this sporadically to throw the breaker. Should I place a separate outlet there? Is this a problem that occurs as a result of a wire getting loose over time? Appreciate any input.
Sounds like a loose wire in the box at the outlet. Electricity vibrates, and will loosen the screws or break the wires if using stab outlets, where you physically push the wire into a hole in the back of the outlet and it is secured via a tab locking device. If newer construction, my guess is they used those cheap .50 contractor outlets and switches in the home. I have seen those quite a bit in new construction, and I would recommend replacing all of them in the house with a quality switch/outlets like Leviton produces. I am not an electrician, and if you do not feel comfortable doing this kind of repair, I would hire a licensed electrician.
Can this be done to a GFCI outlet which are then connected to two separate breakers?
I just asked the same exact question. I can’t find the answer anywhere
The answer is no. GFCI can not be split. They have a line and load pair of screws. The line detects faults while the load provides protection to other outlets.
Modern code replaces kitchen split 15s with a single 20 amp gicf.
Not 100% sure, but I think you can do this with a double pole breaker and 12-3 wire, aka mwbc. You would need 2 GFCI receptacles with the black wire to one and the red wire to the other and a shared neutral. The neutral wire would be pigtailed to the first one and terminated on the second. Attach hot wires and neutral wire to line only and load must remain unused and cannot be used to protect receptacles downstream.
Hey Ben ; Why couldn’t you just use 12 /3 with a ground And split the hot side ?
This is only allowed if the two circuits are on opposite poles, and the breakers are tied together (i.e. if one is shut off they're both shut off).
Thanks for the video. Quick question. How can i do a split for a switch and outlet, as you mention, but where the switch is a dimmer. They are on separate circuits. I want to keep the dimmer but add an outlet for the other circuit. Thanks!
@BenjaminSahlstrom: Thank you for this video. I am trying to replace a setup like this with a GCFI. How do I do that, since a GCFI will only handle one circuit?
If you're sure there are two circuits and you want GFCI, I would simply cap off the wires for the second circuit one use one of the two. Would be smart to see which circuit has less load on it so that you can balance the loads on the circuits as much as possible.
Good luck!
Hey Ben can you do the same exact thing with a GFCI receptacle??? I don’t see the tabs to ply off on the GFCI receptacle that I have. Please help?
I'm doing the same thing, converting 2 split outlets to 2 GFCI's
No. You'll need 2 gfci's on separate circuits using only the line connections.
Question... What do you know about ghost voltage on half the outlet if only one of the breakers are off and the same goes for a half switched outlet? From the research I have done this is common.......what can you tell me.
I have a split wire connection but only has one neutral wire? It does have the two hot wires. One goes to my dishwasher and the other goes to a switch for my disposal. Now the disposal won't turn off
Your comment about using #14 for ground pigtail on a 20 amp circuit is wrong.
Yes. I know this now. It was just my local inspector (AHJ) that was recommending and allowing it.
Benjamin, You have most likely done a NEC violation. It is required to put a single receptacle that is 20 ampere rated if it is the only receptacle on the 20 ampere circuit. Even though they are now single receptacles, they are both on one yoke. I’m not sure how it would be interpreted. But as a design engineer, I would make it a 20 amp receptacle, not a 15. I know that you will most likely never have any appliance that has a 20 amp plug, but code is code. Respectfully, Kevin
You make a very good point, but if this is an end of the run receptacle with others upstream, I would think that this is okay as it would not be a dedicated circuit. I think the code violation is not using a double pole breaker or at least tying the 2 single poles together.
love the video! i do have a question, i removed a light in my garage and i place a 15 amp outlet thinking that my light switch would work, to turn off and on my two shop lights however when i remove the light fixture it had 7 wires 2 black 2 whites 2 grounds and 1 red wire. so test the line, one of the blacks was hot. i connect 1 back 1 white and ground to the outlet all work find , however light switch didn't turn on or off the lights also looks like the other 4 wires that i did not use are connected to my kitchen so had no lights there. grr. could you please give me any ideas how to make this work...
Is this how to fix the problem of having both light switch outlet/prongs wired the same? Basically, if I turn off the light, then the tv goes off as well? Thank you!
Hello, how is a cut 15 amp ceiling light circuit is repaired?
I was thinking adding a junction box were the cut is and splicing the greenfield cable together. Its a two wire cable and the sheathing is the ground.
IF you have two 14 3 into one receptacle 4 wires, how would you wire it up?
Love your video. I have a 440v 3phase outlet. If I connect each of the 3 hot wires to the each hot socket of the 3 split phase outlets, the neutral to each neutral socket and the ground to each ground socket of the 3 split phase outlets can I then make 3 split phase 220v outlets?
I don’t quite follow what you’re saying but something seems off
OK. All the outlets in my old kitchen are wired this way - and of course - there is no gfci protection in this house. Is there a gfci outlet with separate gfci protection on each outlet? :)
They make GFCI breakers. And I hate those GFCI outlets. They are only good for a few years and then they need to be replaced, And God forbid you have one on the same circuit as a refrigerator or chest freezer... Been there, done that. I removed mine and installed regular Leviton outlets. We have lasted a hundred plus years without them...
You do not use electrical tape to cover the terminals?
What was the purpose of removing the tabs in the beginning of your video again And is it necessary
Because each socket is a separate circuit and you want them treated and behaving as two separate circuits.
Because if you don't cut the tabs, once energized, you will get a dead short(just like touching two hot wires on different phases together)
So you had 2 separate grounds you twisted together?
AT 2:32 First. does it matter if the neutral wires are paired to the correct load ? Second why break the connector between the two neutrals on the plug?
If its a GFCI breaker it would most likely trip if you got the wrong neutral. Might not do it all the time but if you used both circuits it most likely would. The newer code also requires the breakers to be tied so they both are off if one is tripped. So the current way is to avoid this type of outlet, and just use a 20 amp outlet or have two outlets separated.
Cutting the break out fins does not make it a switched outlet...it makes it a split wired outlet. One common reason for doing this is to control one outlet of the receptacle with a switch. Another reason is to have two 15 amp breakers in one duplex, which can be advantageous in any kind of work shop, commercial kitchen, bar, or really anywhere equipment with a high amp draw is used.
You should watch the video, and listen to what the man says.
Wouldn't your neutral tab serve both separate loads?
That install is not code compliant if the #12 are fed by 20 amp breakers.
For the ground, couldn't you also use a 4-pin wire connector so they're all going into the single ground screw of the outlet?
Yes he could've used that but it's really a preference
Dude that was a good video but you forgot to show how to split power and wiring if switches
Ben, can you do a video about NEC box fill? You mentioned the box was pretty full. Is that split wired receptacle also GFCI protected?
+jragadio Great suggestion! I referenced a wiring book on fill requirements during my project and I believe I was still within the allowable fill. I'll definitely see if I can make a video on that.
Yes, both of the receptacles were GFCI and AFCI as required per code. I did this using a dual function breaker in the main panel rather that by using an AFCI breaker with GFCI outlets. I like the cleaner feel with the kitchen outlets all being the same albeit if it does trip someone has to run down to the panel to reset it which is a tad less convenient.
How about if i have 5 wires? (2 black 2 white and one red) hows the orientation on that?
Help me please I have a 125v 60hz blower and my current is 110v. Before I had a cheap outlet and it got very hot and we burned it and it lit up. Now change it for one from 127 to 250v, but I'm afraid to connect the blower. You think that nothing happens since in my country the current is 110 but the blower that I bought online says 125v help me what do I do....
Ayudame por favor tengo un blower de 125v 60hz y mi corrien en de 110v. Ante tenia un tomacorriente barato y se calentaba mucho y se quemos y se encendió. Ahora lo cambien por uno de 127 a 250v, pero tengo miedo de conectar el blower. Crees que no pase nada ya que en mi país la corriente es de 110 pero el blower que compré por internet dice 125v ayúdame que hago....
Understand bt I had it tht the neutral is all down... I don't kwn if anyone else learned it tht way... R maybe different region different standards
Is someone using a Sonicare toothbrush in another room?
Broke off tabs and didn't work. I live in a mobile home so don't know why but tried without breaking tabs after nothing and it worked fine?
You may need to call an electrician in your area to come check it out.
can u make a vid about different breaker switches thanks big guy
Can you do this on a single duplex breaker?
If you mean one double pole breaker, then yes and that's the way it should be done so the entire outlet will be off if one circuit trips.
Wow you are using. 15 AMP RECEPTACLE IN A KITCHEN? On 20 AMP Circuit. Hopefully The inspector caught this.
You have 2 circuits on one yoke. To meet code don't you have to use a double pole breaker so both circuits are shut off at the same time?
Dave Ziegler it should be safe to do so too
Good point. But his electrical work is so neat and organized I'll be suprised if it doesnt pass inspection
No workie. Did as directed but no workie mon? Q: Are both black wires supposed to be hot? My tester says only one black is hot so is that the problem outlet does not work? Do I tape off the one, not hot black wire?. ..signed: Challenged in FloriDuh
It workie now....Rass mon it was dat little clip that needed to be bent off. Gracias anyway.
Make sure when you do this that you do not accidentally swap the neutrals to the wrong screw on the outlet. The neutral must go with its own hot wire even though the circuit will still work with swapped neutrals. Also I like to push the wires into the box with the end of a hammer handle.
All neutrals are connected to the same bar in the panel. It does not matter which neutral goes where, unless he is using non traditional tandem single pole breaker.
If you actually watch and listen to the video, you'd know he covered this.
@@The_pipeliner it does matter, because that's exactly what he did, as shown in the video. Try watching it, AND paying attention.
I have a receptacle with 2 hot wires, 1 ground and only 1 neutral. I guess the metal clip is only snipped off on the hot side. Is this acceptable? Two separate 15A circuits but if I try to run two high wattage appliances a circuit will blow. Do I need to get this rewired to a 4-wire+grnd line?
Pphhhht what you have is mostly a switched receptacle which means u have a SP switch controlling one side of it, it’s practically the same as a split. What you have should be fine assuming you have the proper wire
Check if the source of the hots is the same single breaker. If so, one of the hots to the receptacle could be switched then not a problem. Otherwise I'd be concerned of only having only 1 neutral. If there are heavy loads on different sourced lives, it could overload the neutral making it overheat.
Fun fact: this will fix buzz noise on xbox headsets!
I notice that some videos the person only remove the tab from the power side and not the neutral side. which way is better? thx
lenn55 You only have to break out the neutral tab if you are using power from two different circuits. If you were split wiring just to switch one half of the receptacle and were using power from the same circuit then you would not need to remove the neutral tab.
Hope that makes sense for you!
The way Benjamin is wiring, he has no phase restrictions on how he wires the socket. You can share the neutral if the sockets are on separate phases (think dual circuit breaker). If the two hots are separate phases, they can share a common neutral with the neutral only having to carry the difference in the current being supplied by the two phases. If on the other hand, both sockets were on the same phase, then the neutral would have to carry the sum of the current being supplied by both phases and as such be overloaded. In any case, I'd recommend if you have a split socket that you have both circuit breakers linked so both would be turned off at the same time to prevent issues with someone working on the socket thinking it's dead because they turned off the breaker and then getting a bit of a surprise when they get into the junction box and finding a live circuit.
I am amazed some of the people showing e video how to install an outlet do such a terrible job. Please if you put a wire into a receptacle, tied the wire around the screw in a perfect loop then tie the screw./ You don't need to be electrician to know this. and use electrical tape when finish connections, to hold everything safe.
murillo
Dont understand why you had to split top n bottom of receptacle by breaking out side piece metal on receptacle?
Old timer, the side pieces connect the hots and neutrals.
Because they are two separate circuits.
Can you switch 1 side using this method
@Lucky Joestar Isn't that only true if it were a double 240V protective device?
I'm a novice to all this. But you mentioned "when using a 20amp circuit". Isn't that a 15 amp receptacle? Wouldn't it have the extra notch crossing the neutral notch if it was a 20 amp receptacle? Edit - nevermind, I just read where you can use a 15 amp receptacle with a 20 amp circuit breaker.
Scott Harrod, You are observant and partially correct. In some places, mostly larger cities, that you must use a 20amp rated outlet device as well as a 20amp or more rated copper wire going to the outlet, according to code. 15amp service is restricted to circuits for lights being used in the circuit. It is never wise to allow an outlet that will accept a device more that draws more current (amps) than the circuit is designed for. That includes the wire and the breakers.
You need to get rid of the swarm of bees in the background. They can be nasty.
Next video. How to get rid of murder hornets
Did you say 20amp that outlet looks like 15amp
Sounds a bit basakwards. From years of electronics for the fed, we knew we could increase the capacity of cables and termination point items, but we could NEVER go down (add components and wiring) capable of less than the circuit was designed to carry.
Aside the fact I don't cheap out and install fourteen gauge outlet circuits, I buy all 20 amp outlets because they tend to be built better. If I hit a big box, I can get clamp type terminations, versus loops or the stab in connections I abhor. The heavier duty outlets hold up better over the years.
Putting an outlet with more amp capacity, obviously, will not alter whether someone plugs a heater or a 40 watt trouble lamp, a jointer or table saw into the outlet. All the general public sees is an outlet. Nor will it cause the circuit to be overloaded.
Lucky Joestar You are mostly correct, but if you check, I think you may find that you can place 15 a devices on 20 a circuit if there are multiple receptacles. If dedicated circuit, then it changes and needs to be 20 amp receptacle.
Danger Benjamin Sahlstrom Danger!! You have connected two constitutive breakers that are connected to two different legs of the main service panel. This will carry 220 volts to the outlet box that you just wired. I do not know any codes in the USA that will allow this. Correct me if I am wrong.
Excellent point. I honestly am unsure as to the legality of this so I appreciate you pointing this out. Would you resolve this by moving one of the breakers in order to have both being fed by the same leg? Again, thanks for the comment an please post any code references that you may have regarding this.
Blessings,
Ben
@@BenjaminSahlstrom On a single phase house main electrical panel there are 2 separate phase 120 volt power lines that enter the home. (see: ua-cam.com/video/J6Q4JrCpRVk/v-deo.html). He is long winded but shows the panel well. The best and easiest solution for you right now is to move the hot wire from the #30 breaker to the #32 breaker, and move the hot wire from the #32 breaker to the #30 breaker. I would first pull the breakers out of the box, then disconnect and reconnect the wires before moving the wires. Better yet, throw the main breaker switch so it would be safe. This would keep the two separate circuits that are going to the outlet box on the same 120 volt leg keeping the hot voltage reaching the outlet box at a safe 120 volts, but a on different circuits. Having 220 volts going to the one outlet box is dangerous. Square D, which is the premier service panel line for the industry, makes a 2x20 Amp Single-Pole Tandem Circuit Breaker that you can use to have 2 circuits on the same Circuit Breaker. Most Square D main electrical panels will accommodate so many of them for use for expansion. If the outlet is near any water than you should be using a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) circuit breaker. As to code references, every city/town /state has different degrees of intensities of their codes, but I'm sure that none will allow a 220v line connecting to a 120v rated outlet. Hope this helps.
Thanks!
This is not prohibited by code and has the advantage that the neutral can be shared and will only carry the difference between the two circuits if both are supplying appliances at the same time. By code you still need the double pole breaker though.
This used to be quite commonly done but I am not sure the GFCI function can work with a shared neutral. There is no advantage to doing it if the neutral wire can't be shared.
@@jimagles1394 Having a receptacle box that is set up as a split circuit, that is fed by two separate breakers from the service panel is not prohibited by code. What is prohibited by code is that the current going to a single receptacle box from the service panel is wired to different phases, each being from a different 120vAC supply. This will make the power to the box as a 240vAC supply line going to a 120vAC receptacle. Since the wires will be grounded the box is now 240vAC. This is dangerous and against any electrical codes. See: timeline 4:08 to 4:16. Circuit breaker 28 is connected to one phase leg 120vAC and Circuit breaker 30 is connected to the other phase leg of 120vAC, coming into the panel, supplying 240vAC to the receptacle box. To do this correctly, both breakers need to be on the same phase leg.
See ua-cam.com/video/J6Q4JrCpRVk/v-deo.html See timeline 4:30 to 9:00. 120vAC hurts, 240vAC kills. As far as neutral wires being shared, all ground wires need to be joined to ground, and all common, neutral, wires [from separate breakers] need to be connected somehow to complete a circuit.