I used to do all this stuff 40 years ago, as I was an HQ man in the day. I have done that conversion before. But it is easier to put commodore brake on rear. But you have put commodore spacer on the axle behind axle bearing, which there is a difference in thickness between commodore and hq. You can convert rear drum brake master cylinder to disc by taking out the restricter that in the master cylinder by screwing a screw in that restricter and use two screw drivers and lever it out and screw your brake line in and than you have 4wd disc set up
@V8JakeC still I'm thinking how I got around that problem with hand brake cable, I think I use statsman hand brake cable, and I swap left to right handbrake bracket because of leaf spring. It's been so long!!!
The problem is the cable wasn’t long enough. One tonner has a longer wheelbase than statesman, maybe with commodore calipers you were able to swap cables left to right.
Hang in there buddy, even if things aren’t going your way you are doing amazing work. So great that you keep your videos real and fun with no bullshit.
The last couple I’ve made I’ve put a bit more of my personality into them to make them more original then the generic UA-camr of today. I’m glad you’re still watching them!
I think I'll stick with drum rear brakes on my hq ute. I love the little mx 80 in the background. I got one new in 1981 for my 7th birthday. Still have it today in as new condition. Cheers
We live parallel lives! That’s my first bike from when I was 8/10 except I didn’t get it new. Mum and dad brought it home in a wooden box. Drums work well, I won’t deny it. Some of the best braking h series I’ve had had drums all round. The booster I have is for a vy commodore so it needs discs all the way round.
The common get around for the hand brake to leaf spring interference is a 2 inch lowering block. Doesn't help much if you're already riding low, but is the easiest fix if the ass of your ute is riding high anyway.
HZ WB rear factory disc conversion booster /master cyl can either be HZ or WB has a different stud pattern for these items . Handbrake disc rear cables , under body and front cables are different . Mainly because they were options on long wheel base bodies . Very rare on a Premier sedan . Pedal brake arm is has a LUG [no hole ] Proportioning valve is different . disc to drum and body styles statesman /sedan /ute Axles offset /studs longer are different
I did the same to my HZ premier with Statesman diff, i removed the standard disc setup and fitted VN rear discs ,solving the handbrake issue, R.S sells made up handbrake cables and brake hoses, works perfect, only needed to fit standard drum axles
I’ve got a few ideas to fix this predicament. But I think I’ll hold off as I would like to use bigger and newer brakes off something like a vy commodore. But for now this will be fine.
Corrosion is the biggest cause of siezure but not what u think ..... ---caliper body corrodes between dust boot and body clamping piston --rear brakes move a very very small amount and seize b4 pads are worn out why because all the factory rust prevention coatings are gone due to age --- pistons can be removed with pressure cleaner NEver ever cut out pins and slide sleeves .Always silver grade never seieze reassembling . New sleeves are best made from stainless steel and a very small amount of graphite grease . Correct o ring grooves for pin o rings can be then done .
You could. But you can also buy the cables for a one tonner aftermarket. It just didn’t happen in this video because I didn’t discover them till after.
No handbrake is defectable . Conversion to Commodore is defectable . Once the arm shaft is timed to the piston splines good start . Then timing the Arm spring can be very difficult , there is only one correct position !!!!.
Now you'll have to be inspected by an engineer for them to sign off on it and keep it road legal.....more expense, not to mention the brake testing that's needed as well. PITA for a street car.
Ah one of "those fing" jobs.... The more frustrated i get,the more mistakes are made. Then you go and do some renovations and the same thing happens. In fact it just happened. 😩. FFS.
I learnt a long time ago that getting angry at things like this is wasted energy, All of my frustration is purely fabricated in videos. But yes I agree if things aren’t working out and it’s just one thing after another it’s normally best idea to pack up shop and come back at it with a fresh mind.
Enjoy watching your vids, went the vn diff/discs on my WB ute. Sorry to say but your worst idea is the coffin shaped tray... Sorry again i couldnt help myself😂
I used to do all this stuff 40 years ago, as I was an HQ man in the day. I have done that conversion before. But it is easier to put commodore brake on rear. But you have put commodore spacer on the axle behind axle bearing, which there is a difference in thickness between commodore and hq. You can convert rear drum brake master cylinder to disc by taking out the restricter that in the master cylinder by screwing a screw in that restricter and use two screw drivers and lever it out and screw your brake line in and than you have 4wd disc set up
I think commodore rear brakes will be where I end up. Brake booster and master cylinder is a vy commodore so already suited to disc/disc
@V8JakeC still I'm thinking how I got around that problem with hand brake cable, I think I use statsman hand brake cable, and I swap left to right handbrake bracket because of leaf spring. It's been so long!!!
The problem is the cable wasn’t long enough. One tonner has a longer wheelbase than statesman, maybe with commodore calipers you were able to swap cables left to right.
Hang in there buddy, even if things aren’t going your way you are doing amazing work. So great that you keep your videos real and fun with no bullshit.
The last couple I’ve made I’ve put a bit more of my personality into them to make them more original then the generic UA-camr of today. I’m glad you’re still watching them!
@@V8JakeC loving it mate 👍
I think I'll stick with drum rear brakes on my hq ute. I love the little mx 80 in the background.
I got one new in 1981 for my 7th birthday. Still have it today in as new condition. Cheers
We live parallel lives! That’s my first bike from when I was 8/10 except I didn’t get it new. Mum and dad brought it home in a wooden box.
Drums work well, I won’t deny it. Some of the best braking h series I’ve had had drums all round. The booster I have is for a vy commodore so it needs discs all the way round.
The common get around for the hand brake to leaf spring interference is a 2 inch lowering block. Doesn't help much if you're already riding low, but is the easiest fix if the ass of your ute is riding high anyway.
It is. Unfortunately my leaves have been reset and are parallel so lowering it more isn’t an option for me.
HZ WB rear factory disc conversion
booster /master cyl can either be HZ or WB has a different stud pattern for these items .
Handbrake disc rear cables , under body and front cables are different . Mainly because they were options on long wheel base bodies . Very rare on a Premier sedan .
Pedal brake arm is has a LUG [no hole ]
Proportioning valve is different . disc to drum and body styles statesman /sedan /ute
Axles offset /studs longer are different
I did the same to my HZ premier with Statesman diff, i removed the standard disc setup and fitted VN rear discs ,solving the handbrake issue, R.S sells made up handbrake cables and brake hoses, works perfect, only needed to fit standard drum axles
I’ve got a few ideas to fix this predicament. But I think I’ll hold off as I would like to use bigger and newer brakes off something like a vy commodore. But for now this will be fine.
Who did you use for the handbrake cable .
RS ?
@@owenbuttfield9876 RARE SPARES, THEY MAKE THEM TO FIT , BRAKE HOSES AS WELL
Hey broi put the garden hose to blow the piston out its to easy for the water to push it out
Might have to give that a try one day.
Corrosion is the biggest cause of siezure but not what u think .....
---caliper body corrodes between dust boot and body clamping piston
--rear brakes move a very very small amount and seize b4 pads are worn out why because all the factory rust prevention coatings are gone due to age
--- pistons can be removed with pressure cleaner
NEver ever cut out pins and slide sleeves .Always silver grade never seieze reassembling .
New sleeves are best made from stainless steel and a very small amount of graphite grease . Correct o ring grooves for pin o rings can be then done .
could you move the hand brake bracket on the frame ?
You could. But you can also buy the cables for a one tonner aftermarket. It just didn’t happen in this video because I didn’t discover them till after.
No handbrake is defectable . Conversion to Commodore is defectable .
Once the arm shaft is timed to the piston splines good start . Then timing the Arm spring can be very difficult , there is only one correct position !!!!.
Now you'll have to be inspected by an engineer for them to sign off on it and keep it road legal.....more expense, not to mention the brake testing that's needed as well. PITA for a street car.
Better turn it back to standard then!
Btw,thanks for the distraction.As my previous comment elludes. Wound up.Car vids at lunch to reign it in a bit.
lmao @ call it a day
We’ve all been there!
Ah one of "those fing" jobs.... The more frustrated i get,the more mistakes are made. Then you go and do some renovations and the same thing happens. In fact it just happened. 😩. FFS.
I learnt a long time ago that getting angry at things like this is wasted energy, All of my frustration is purely fabricated in videos. But yes I agree if things aren’t working out and it’s just one thing after another it’s normally best idea to pack up shop and come back at it with a fresh mind.
Enjoy watching your vids, went the vn diff/discs on my WB ute. Sorry to say but your worst idea is the coffin shaped tray... Sorry again i couldnt help myself😂
Good thing you don’t own it then.
Yep, I'm sure my wife would agree with your comment