Excellent video as usual from Simon. Just did the ABS ring on my 2005 XC 90. Took 20 minutes with a 20lb sledge hammer to get the driver shaft spline to move !
Very calm and methodical, a lot of car repairs should be like this. Taking clear and explaining everything helps so much. Though that being said, this looks like a pain in the ass lol for a novice
Thanks for this reminder. Did it in the same car probably 10 years ago and pedal vibration makes me think the abs is malfunctioning again so I'll try this cheap replacement first. Your intercooler replacement video was incredibly useful the other Summer too. Thanks.
Yet another fantastic video from you Simon 👍 Have a 2002 V70 D5 and I’ve used your great videos to change free wheel hub on the alternator, torque and engine mounts and change vacuum hoses from the and clean turbo boost valve. (Still have the fishing boat sound when I remove the oil filler cap - suspect a dodgy vacuum pump, since everything else seems fine). So, I’m a huge fan of your videos.
Thank you and that's great to hear. This video is one of 4 recent new uploads so check the others out too. Try checking for the D5 popping noise at different engine temperatures as that can also have an effect dependant on the EGR valve position. I also have a vacuum pump testing video so you can easily check the performance of the pump and see vacuum leaks on the tester gauge.
SiRobb - I’ve already checked all componets with a with vacuum test gauge and they all seem fine, but removing the vacuum pump doesn’t take long and when I find a gasket kit, I’ll overhaul it - so at least I can ☑️ that box in my search. I’ve seen all your videos several times, and saved them in a Volvo folder here on UA-cam 👍
Thanks for the excellent filming of this. On mine, the driveshafts were glued in (locktite ?) to the hubs and needed a 5 leg puller to remove them. Even hitting them hard with a brass drift would not dislodge them. I think there was a problem with a clicking nose from the driveshats, so Volvo glued them to prevent the noise, and used a different bolt.
The XC90 had replacement bolts and Loctite as a solution. Either way it's complete overkill as any clicking is just that, nothing more. Nothing is going to come apart so I'd live with it, especially as the "fix" can create labour intensive and potentially expensive issues with dismantling as you've found.
Well done, I really enjoy your series on these great cars. I have an 05 V70 D5 and did this job myself recently I had to clean the drive shaft surface with a wire wheel brush, as the corrosion was so bad. Also did the oven technique to fit the new ring. Any chance of a clutch replacement video?!?! Mine is just beginning to slip at high torque, I know some special tools are required, but i'd love to do it myself.....
Thanks for the comment. I'm very light on clutches so barring any disaster, I hopefully won't ever need to do a clutch change and it's not the sort of video I can make just for fun as a demonstration. I don't enjoy car diy QUITE that much. 😊
I believe you can heat the rings up. Do not change the colour of the metal. Blow torch over it and then tap on with a copper hammer immediately. Its like the old way they would build cart wheels. this makes life easier.
On advice from an IVS who had replaced so many aftermarket rings that they no longer fit aftermarket parts, I've just had my N/S ring replaced with an OEM part - £47 +VAT for one ring plus fitting !! - I had originally purchased two aftermarket rings for £20 as some say the really cheap ones will still give problems... how true I have no idea....
If a replacement ring is compared with the original as shown in the video and the dimensions are all identical, I have no idea how anyone can say that they will function differently. If they were thicker, wider, different diameter etc., I'd understand that but they shouldn't be fitting anything that's not the same dimensions. I've fitted the £2.75 rings to several Volvos over the last 6 years without a single issue.
@@sirobb It could be a sales pitch, but the guy has been fair to me over the years so I don't doubt his word. Chances are cheaper parts do the job just as well, especially with something like this that isn't load bearing etc. I'm still keeping the aftermarket rings just in case the other one needs replacing and will see how that goes
Nice video indeed. A question though, won't the car need a wheel alignment, especially since you took off the tie rod end and the shock absorber strut? Or is the wheel alignment only needed when the lower link arm is disassembled?
Always good to see a "nice sparkling ring" 😂👍👌 Thanks for all your videos, they have been a massive help to me for all the jobs I've had to do on our old Volvo!! Cheers 👍👍
Hi, when I slow down to very slow speed but after engaging the brake normally, before I come to a stop, my abs just sputters and vibrates my brake pedal. Do you think it could be this tone ring
Hello thanks for the nice video, I found it quite interesting, please what car did you use in this video? I want to change my ABS sensor ring and I have Daewoo Nubira saloon, I don't know if you method will work for me that is why I wish to know your car model in this video
hi Simn, thanks for video, I have 2 questions,, Did you need a spring compresor to take before you took those 2 strut bolts? will oil come out of the gearbox when I take out the driveshaft? Thank you in advance for your help
Hello! Ive watched your videos cuz I just bought a s60 d5. This question is not about this video but cleaning the injectors. Do I have To do anything special other than shut the car off and start taking parts out? My injectors could use new seals etc... There is diesel and other shit on top of the engine.. Sorry for bad english btw😂
Hi, very helpful as always. I'm doing this job next weekend. Do you happen to know if there is a particular resistance value for checking the ABS sensor? My broken ring has been rubbing against the end of the sensor and I'm wondering if I should replace the sensor too. Also, assuming the sensor is OK, any idea if the dashboard ABS light will extinguish by itself, after fitting the new ring?
@@sirobbI replaced the ABS ring using your tap on with grease method. I confess I was a little concerned the ring might split but all was well. Unlike you I had a rubber collar next to the ring (that goes on one way around). It seemed the axle bolt and maybe the two bolts through the strut had locking compound on them. I did not use this. Also, according to the Haynes manual the axle bolt is supposed not to be reused (I reused it). I would be interested in your thoughts on the kinds of bolts (stretch bolts maybe). I tend to reuse them. Do you do the same?
Great video Simon, thank you! What are the symptoms of a failing abs ring and at what mileage did it happen to your car? Also is there just one ring or is there one on each side?
You'll normally get a braking or traction warning. I had no problems but I was replacing my driveshaft seals so decided to do the rings whilst better access was available.
@@bigbluechopper24 Yes all 4 wheels have speed/abs sensors. On my car the fronts have reluctor rings as seen in this video and the rear has the ring built into the rear hub assembly.
Hi Simon! And what about the case when the ring is part of a half-axle (cannot be ordered separately). I have an S60 T5 2005. Will this regular ring fit as well? Thanks.
Pretty sure that style is not replaceable but you also rarely hear of problems too. Have you monitored individual wheel speeds to see if there's a problem?
Hi Simon! So I can confirm that the standard ring for S60, V70 II. also fits my S60 2.4 T5, yesterday I changed the ring (only the whole half is shown on VIDA) It's a good finding for all those who have a 2.4 T5 that they don't have to buy the whole half-axle to repair the ring. :-)
@@philipmacdonald9449 No. I checked it and did this in advance. See my video on how to diagnose in fact, just see all my videos where their titles are similar to your problem. 👍🏾
@@sirobb I certainly will look at you're videos my friend I've already seen some and you know what I like you have a very calming and soothing voice 👌🔥
@philipmacdonald9449 Lol thank you but more important is that the videos and comments section will help you even more. 😊 You should be calm and soothed anyway. You have a Volvo D5. 👍🏾
Hello si, I’m gonna be doing this at the weekend the kit I got sent has a lock tight liquid with it to hold it in position Would you recommend using it or not ? Cheers for the vid
The Loctite won't make the ring more secure as the ring is secure enough with the tight fit. Perhaps the Loctite is for the driveshaft bolt when everything is going back together. Not really necessary either way but entirely up to you if you want to put it on the bolt threads.
@@sirobb thanks for your reply si, another quick question I have some silicone spray but not grease would that be ok to use or even some wax oil I have ? Cheers
Anything too thin won't really make much difference. Plenty fit them without any grease. Some even heat the rings in the oven to expand them a little. I've only done as per the video.
Hey Simon. Maybe you could share some knowledge on what could be the problem. The car is Volvo S60 2002 2.4 D5. When driving in fourth or fifth gear, and pressing accelerator (high torque demand), the car starts shaking/vibrating like crazy (like really badly). After I reach 140 km/h the problem is gone (only very slight vibration can be felt). I've changed the long driveshaft and torque engine mount (almost no effect). The vacuum mounts are good (I've checked it following your video on how to check vacuum engine mounts). Also, there is some drops of oil coming from the gap where gearbox and engine meet (don't know how to better explain the position). Please, maybe you can give some directions on where to look for the problem?
The shaking sounds like it could be a worn DMF and the oil leak could a leaking core plug seal. Both problems are not uncommon on early D5s and both would require the gearbox to be removed so I hope I'm wrong.
@@sirobb But if it's DMF, why the vibrations occur only in forth and fifth gears? Or that is exactpy how it should be? And I'm sorry for bothering you, it's just this problem is driving me nuts and bankrupt
It's not how it should be on a working car but hard acceleration in high gears will stress any DMF and clutch and shorten its life. Clutches and DMFs can last forever but its down to driving style.
@@sirobb So I have changed DMF, and also have changed both driveshafts. The car still shakes like crazy in fourth and fifth gears... Any more suggestions on where to look for the problem?
Excellent video as usual from Simon.
Just did the ABS ring on my 2005 XC 90. Took 20 minutes with a 20lb sledge hammer to get the driver shaft spline to move !
Very calm and methodical, a lot of car repairs should be like this. Taking clear and explaining everything helps so much. Though that being said, this looks like a pain in the ass lol for a novice
Eventually psyched myself up to tackle this today. Thanks. Ring went on without too much of a fight.
I got quoted £430 to have this done. Think I'll be giving it a go myself. Thanks for the video.
@@calli1993 wow incredibly expensive but I'm not surprised because of today's prices for parts and work involved and overheads of company etc 😳
Thanks for this reminder. Did it in the same car probably 10 years ago and pedal vibration makes me think the abs is malfunctioning again so I'll try this cheap replacement first.
Your intercooler replacement video was incredibly useful the other Summer too. Thanks.
Finally a video that shows u I got em to do on my xc90 lol as got abs warning on dash I'll sort it now got a ring just wasn't sure of how lol
Yet another fantastic video from you Simon 👍 Have a 2002 V70 D5 and I’ve used your great videos to change free wheel hub on the alternator, torque and engine mounts and change vacuum hoses from the and clean turbo boost valve. (Still have the fishing boat sound when I remove the oil filler cap - suspect a dodgy vacuum pump, since everything else seems fine).
So, I’m a huge fan of your videos.
Thank you and that's great to hear.
This video is one of 4 recent new uploads so check the others out too.
Try checking for the D5 popping noise at different engine temperatures as that can also have an effect dependant on the EGR valve position.
I also have a vacuum pump testing video so you can easily check the performance of the pump and see vacuum leaks on the tester gauge.
SiRobb - I’ve already checked all componets with a with vacuum test gauge and they all seem fine, but removing the vacuum pump doesn’t take long and when I find a gasket kit, I’ll overhaul it - so at least I can ☑️ that box in my search. I’ve seen all your videos several times, and saved them in a Volvo folder here on UA-cam 👍
Helllo another excellent video from Sirobb.
What about a video replacing the PVC and cleaning EGR?
Really nice video bud! I appreciate the knowledge and tips you shared
Thanks for the excellent filming of this. On mine, the driveshafts were glued in (locktite ?) to the hubs and needed a 5 leg puller to remove them. Even hitting them hard with a brass drift would not dislodge them. I think there was a problem with a clicking nose from the driveshats, so Volvo glued them to prevent the noise, and used a different bolt.
Sounds like you have an XC90?
@@sirobb Mine is a V70. But the XC90 did have replacement bolts to try to cure the clicking problem didn't it?
The XC90 had replacement bolts and Loctite as a solution.
Either way it's complete overkill as any clicking is just that, nothing more. Nothing is going to come apart so I'd live with it, especially as the "fix" can create labour intensive and potentially expensive issues with dismantling as you've found.
Well done, I really enjoy your series on these great cars. I have an 05 V70 D5 and did this job myself recently I had to clean the drive shaft surface with a wire wheel brush, as the corrosion was so bad. Also did the oven technique to fit the new ring.
Any chance of a clutch replacement video?!?! Mine is just beginning to slip at high torque, I know some special tools are required, but i'd love to do it myself.....
Thanks for the comment.
I'm very light on clutches so barring any disaster, I hopefully won't ever need to do a clutch change and it's not the sort of video I can make just for fun as a demonstration.
I don't enjoy car diy QUITE that much. 😊
Once again. PERFECT. MANY THANKS.
I believe you can heat the rings up. Do not change the colour of the metal. Blow torch over it and then tap on with a copper hammer immediately. Its like the old way they would build cart wheels. this makes life easier.
Hello robb do one of your excellent vids on changing the rear springs on a volvo s60 d5 04
On advice from an IVS who had replaced so many aftermarket rings that they no longer fit aftermarket parts, I've just had my N/S ring replaced with an OEM part - £47 +VAT for one ring plus fitting !! - I had originally purchased two aftermarket rings for £20 as some say the really cheap ones will still give problems... how true I have no idea....
If a replacement ring is compared with the original as shown in the video and the dimensions are all identical, I have no idea how anyone can say that they will function differently.
If they were thicker, wider, different diameter etc., I'd understand that but they shouldn't be fitting anything that's not the same dimensions.
I've fitted the £2.75 rings to several Volvos over the last 6 years without a single issue.
@@sirobb It could be a sales pitch, but the guy has been fair to me over the years so I don't doubt his word. Chances are cheaper parts do the job just as well, especially with something like this that isn't load bearing etc. I'm still keeping the aftermarket rings just in case the other one needs replacing and will see how that goes
I'm going to give this job ago soon thanks so much for informative video, wish me luck.
Absolutely. Good luck.
Thanks Si !this explains all I needed to know
No problem and you're welcome.
Are you still thinking it's the sensor?
@@sirobb More like you say the rings,I have it booked next week to find out,what rings did you fit,were they from ebay?
Thank you from Denmark
Nice video indeed. A question though, won't the car need a wheel alignment, especially since you took off the tie rod end and the shock absorber strut?
Or is the wheel alignment only needed when the lower link arm is disassembled?
Always good to see a "nice sparkling ring" 😂👍👌 Thanks for all your videos, they have been a massive help to me for all the jobs I've had to do on our old Volvo!! Cheers 👍👍
Hi, when I slow down to very slow speed but after engaging the brake normally, before I come to a stop, my abs just sputters and vibrates my brake pedal. Do you think it could be this tone ring
Excellent tutorial, thank you.
Brilliant video
Hello thanks for the nice video, I found it quite interesting, please what car did you use in this video? I want to change my ABS sensor ring and I have Daewoo Nubira saloon, I don't know if you method will work for me that is why I wish to know your car model in this video
2002 Volvo S60
Don't you need a new allignment after taking off the tie rod(s) and the shock(s)?
Yes, as mentioned in the shock absorber video.
Thanks for the great video. One question before I attempt mine: Are those drive shaft bolts single use "stretch bolts"?
hi Simn, thanks for video, I have 2 questions,, Did you need a spring compresor to take before you took those 2 strut bolts? will oil come out of the gearbox when I take out the driveshaft? Thank you in advance for your help
Such a great video
Can a bad tone ring somehow cause a rough idle when weather is 85-90°
Nice job
Heat the ring in the oven. Not to red hot just ~300F. Ring expands; slips right on.
You know these cars inside out Simon 😀.
Thank you but I just learn what I need to learn.
There's lots more to work out if the need arises.
@@sirobb you're a clever bloke and you're work is very neat and tidy.
Hello! Ive watched your videos cuz I just bought a s60 d5. This question is not about this video but cleaning the injectors. Do I have To do anything special other than shut the car off and start taking parts out? My injectors could use new seals etc... There is diesel and other shit on top of the engine.. Sorry for bad english btw😂
Ive had 240 and 940 (b230). This is my first diesel so im a noob working on these cars.
Yes, injector replacement can be pretty simple and I have videos in my list showing you how.
Hi, very helpful as always. I'm doing this job next weekend. Do you happen to know if there is a particular resistance value for checking the ABS sensor? My broken ring has been rubbing against the end of the sensor and I'm wondering if I should replace the sensor too. Also, assuming the sensor is OK, any idea if the dashboard ABS light will extinguish by itself, after fitting the new ring?
Further testing can be found in my video here ua-cam.com/video/0GNbCMDqTXQ/v-deo.html
@@sirobbI replaced the ABS ring using your tap on with grease method. I confess I was a little concerned the ring might split but all was well. Unlike you I had a rubber collar next to the ring (that goes on one way around). It seemed the axle bolt and maybe the two bolts through the strut had locking compound on them. I did not use this. Also, according to the Haynes manual the axle bolt is supposed not to be reused (I reused it). I would be interested in your thoughts on the kinds of bolts (stretch bolts maybe). I tend to reuse them. Do you do the same?
GOOD JOB SI
Top work.
Hi Simon… is there any reason why the shock bolts are removed rather than the bottom ball joint ?
Easier than removing the balljoint.
Great video Simon, thank you!
What are the symptoms of a failing abs ring and at what mileage did it happen to your car?
Also is there just one ring or is there one on each side?
You'll normally get a braking or traction warning.
I had no problems but I was replacing my driveshaft seals so decided to do the rings whilst better access was available.
@@sirobb Thanks and is there a ring on each side of the car?
@@bigbluechopper24 Yes all 4 wheels have speed/abs sensors.
On my car the fronts have reluctor rings as seen in this video and the rear has the ring built into the rear hub assembly.
@@sirobb Thanks for the info!
Hi Simon! And what about the case when the ring is part of a half-axle (cannot be ordered separately). I have an S60 T5 2005. Will this regular ring fit as well? Thanks.
Pretty sure that style is not replaceable but you also rarely hear of problems too.
Have you monitored individual wheel speeds to see if there's a problem?
Hi Simon! So I can confirm that the standard ring for S60, V70 II. also fits my S60 2.4 T5, yesterday I changed the ring (only the whole half is shown on VIDA) It's a good finding for all those who have a 2.4 T5 that they don't have to buy the whole half-axle to repair the ring. :-)
It would be nice if some of you would let me know what year and make your working on
2002 Volvo S60
Is there any way to release the EPB without a fancy scan tool?
Some on a few volvo forum attach a battery to the motor and reverse polarity to change direction.
Was youre ABS WARNING MESSAGE ON DASH FOR YOU TO REPLACE ring pal ?
@@philipmacdonald9449 No. I checked it and did this in advance. See my video on how to diagnose in fact, just see all my videos where their titles are similar to your problem. 👍🏾
@@sirobb I certainly will look at you're videos my friend I've already seen some and you know what I like you have a very calming and soothing voice 👌🔥
@philipmacdonald9449 Lol thank you but more important is that the videos and comments section will help you even more. 😊
You should be calm and soothed anyway. You have a Volvo D5. 👍🏾
Why did you replace this? What issues were you having and what did it solve?
I didn't have any issues. It was preventative.
Hello si, I’m gonna be doing this at the weekend the kit I got sent has a lock tight liquid with it to hold it in position Would you recommend using it or not ? Cheers for the vid
The Loctite won't make the ring more secure as the ring is secure enough with the tight fit.
Perhaps the Loctite is for the driveshaft bolt when everything is going back together.
Not really necessary either way but entirely up to you if you want to put it on the bolt threads.
@@sirobb thanks for your reply si, another quick question I have some silicone spray but not grease would that be ok to use or even some wax oil I have ? Cheers
Anything too thin won't really make much difference.
Plenty fit them without any grease. Some even heat the rings in the oven to expand them a little.
I've only done as per the video.
Cheers si, I had to heat mine up to get it on. My steering didn’t go out much but still need to be tweaked back.
Thank you.
What car is? Would be so good to have that information
Volvo S60 2002
When this ring is bad, do you get a loud vibration at something like 45 mph?
Almost certainly no.
I like UK videos. They dont have the stupid ass music and horrible camera angles that our American ones do.
Anti-Skid Service Required
Why would these need to be replaced? Doesn’t cleaning them do enough?
@@First.nameLastname Explained here ua-cam.com/video/77sntnVpyvI/v-deo.htmlsi=kgQ0w-cM16bilawC
@@sirobb ah thanks.
Very good
nice video god vork
Hey Simon. Maybe you could share some knowledge on what could be the problem. The car is Volvo S60 2002 2.4 D5. When driving in fourth or fifth gear, and pressing accelerator (high torque demand), the car starts shaking/vibrating like crazy (like really badly). After I reach 140 km/h the problem is gone (only very slight vibration can be felt). I've changed the long driveshaft and torque engine mount (almost no effect). The vacuum mounts are good (I've checked it following your video on how to check vacuum engine mounts). Also, there is some drops of oil coming from the gap where gearbox and engine meet (don't know how to better explain the position). Please, maybe you can give some directions on where to look for the problem?
The shaking sounds like it could be a worn DMF and the oil leak could a leaking core plug seal.
Both problems are not uncommon on early D5s and both would require the gearbox to be removed so I hope I'm wrong.
@@sirobb But if it's DMF, why the vibrations occur only in forth and fifth gears? Or that is exactpy how it should be? And I'm sorry for bothering you, it's just this problem is driving me nuts and bankrupt
It's not how it should be on a working car but hard acceleration in high gears will stress any DMF and clutch and shorten its life.
Clutches and DMFs can last forever but its down to driving style.
@@sirobb The clutch set has been changed about 1k km ago. Now I understand everything (I hope). Thank you very much for your answers.
@@sirobb So I have changed DMF, and also have changed both driveshafts. The car still shakes like crazy in fourth and fifth gears... Any more suggestions on where to look for the problem?
4:43
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@@sirobb cool