The first half of the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
I recall just out of HS many years ago when I worked as a finish carpenter's helper. He taught me a lot about running trim, especially baseboard (because I had a young back and knees LOL). We did use the power mitre saw, but hand-hammered all the nails and then set them using a nail set. Thank heavens for caulk, especially for crown mold.
I've always found it best to leave the nailing three feet or so from the corner until the coped piece goes up so that there's easy adjustability up or down of the two pieces. That allows me to make the joint good and tight by either driving up or down a smidge, thereby changing the angle slightly. Then I finish nailing.
You don't need to cut it super tight with the coping saw either, just get it close enough. Afterwards you can use some sandpaper and a file to clean up your cut.
For cutting crown molding, nothing is better than laying it flat on the miter saw and learning what all those interesting numbers on the miter and bevel scales are for.
For anyone who is unaware….you can completely avoid intermediate scarf joints by ordering longer lengths of crown from your local architectural Millwork company. Single piece construction…no joints.
My problem is todays tools don't have a nice back for the crown molding to rest upon and i need to make or expand the deck also. it would be nice if you had a video already archived, but if you could make a video making an extension for the compound miter box for crown molding that would be great 😁
Tommy - where are your Dewalt Crown holders ? and its best to paint or stain crown molding before cutting and installing it ! after its hung its must easier to add another coat of paint
Would nail position matter more if you want to attach the crown to the ceiling only and not the wall? I'm trying to hide a crack between the ceiling and wall due to truss uplift.
I want to install crown molding in a first floor unit (in a condo building) that has concrete between each floor. The ceiling of the first floor unit is concrete. How do you fasten the crown molding to the ceiling when the ceiling is concrete? And, how do you fasten crown molding to the concrete ceiling when one of the walls is brick? The video says to use construction adhesive to attach the crown molding to a brick wall, but what would I use to attach the brick wall crown molding to the concrete ceiling?
A scarf joint helps with two things it one gives more surface area for glue and the eye has a harder time finding a joint that is cut on some sort of a miter than it does on finding a butt joint.
Look out there is not all the time backing at the ceiling in between the rafters or trusses and you have backing about 3inches down at walls and a lot of people cope the corners I don’t I check if it is a true 90 first same with the out side corners which I cut most of the Time about a 47 degree because of the build up of drywall mud at corners but be sure to caulk all miters and use a good caulk it might cost a little more but worth it , what I have learned in construction is six of one way half dozen of the other that means you will get the same end product no matter how you do it , if you miter the inside corners it will not come apart if done properly so don’t think the way he has done this is the best way just his way
It's truss uplift. Caulking won't do anything to stop it. The sheet rock installers should have held the screws back 16" from the corner so the sheet rock doesn't lift with the trusses. You also don't want to nail the crown into the ceiling, just tack it to the wall and caulk it to the ceiling. If done properly the crown and ceiling sheet rock will stay where they are in the corner as the trusses go up.
sawing the angle for the corner joint is fine and dandy for that type of molding, but if you are working with 52/38 edges crown molding that is more decorative, FORGET IT! You will have to miter the corners. Furthermore, if your miter saw does not have a high "fence", as you have seen here, I suggest you either purchase a high end compound miter saw, or look up: COMPOUND MITER SAW ADJUSTMENT CHART FOR CROWN MOLDING.
I've watched a lot of crown moulding inside corner coping saw videos. NOT ONE ever bothers to show the back of the board after they have trimmed it with the coping saw.
I've never seen a coping saw trim before his demonstration. I can do that with some fish and a yanagiba, but painted wood trim and a coping saw? Tom's videos are the best because he's so f*cking extra.
@@acerjuglans383 what if you have a plaster ceiling and plaster over brick walls? Just use construction adhesive? What holds it in place while the glue dries?
Nice work but this is one way and another way is to cut compound angles 45 on the 45 , it eliminate the coping saw back cutting and is faster inside corner work, any exposed seams take latex filler, that's how I have done it but Tommy is a pro also and great method as well. This is a two man job really but one man can handle it if he is careful. thanks for sharing this.
Yeah, it's what Angie said. It allows the non-coped moulding to sit well with the coped moulding. Once you try to install it without cutting off that little corner, you'll realize that it needs to be cut off.
That Crown Molding is about the same curvature as what we call in Australia cornice and it is made from the same product as what you call drywall. we fit the cornice with cornice adhesive (glue) we fit it to the full length on both edges of the cornice then push the cornice into position then scrape away the adhesive from both the wall and the ceiling and there is no need for any calking. And there is no nail holes to putty up game over!
If you have a truss roof in a cold climate, you definitely don't want to nail into the ceiling. Hopefully your drywall on the ceiling is already held back 16" from the wall so it stays down when the trusses lift in the winter, so you don't want your trusses dragging your crown up the wall when they go.
That's cove moulding. Actual crown is considerably more difficult to cut. Even in a new house ain't no corners, inside or out, ninety degrees. Or at the wall and ceiling. That "caulk" remark at the end, and those gaps at the top, and bottom, of the moulding tell the story. C'mon Tom, you know the carpenter's favorite old saying: "paint and putty are the carpenters buddy".
excellent fitting job only thing i would do is were it meets thewall brick work put masking tape either behind the moulding or on the wall try frog tape paint and finish then cut tape of with a sharp knife .this is good for maniac painters lolll
Because when you paint after you know exactly what you'll be painting. You never know whats going to happen and you may need to get a new piece because you made a mistake. Also, you'll be possible adding to the crown moulding.
The first half of the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
Imagine if every time you had a project, Tom showed up to help you. Tom is the best.
Always delightful to watch Tom Silva work. A consummate professional
What an excellent, clear presentation. Tom is brilliant at explaining quite technical concepts. I now have confidence to tackle my own crown moulding.
Good work I'm a this old house fanatic I've watching u all over 20yrs u all r the best for all time respect amazing
I recall just out of HS many years ago when I worked as a finish carpenter's helper. He taught me a lot about running trim, especially baseboard (because I had a young back and knees LOL). We did use the power mitre saw, but hand-hammered all the nails and then set them using a nail set. Thank heavens for caulk, especially for crown mold.
I've always found it best to leave the nailing three feet or so from the corner until the coped piece goes up so that there's easy adjustability up or down of the two pieces. That allows me to make the joint good and tight by either driving up or down a smidge, thereby changing the angle slightly. Then I finish nailing.
Good point!
Tom Silva is the man I've learned so much from this guy.
He makes everything look so easy
Muy buen instructor y muy buen trabajo.
Tommy is the man. Absolute pro.
Tom is a magician!!!
Tommy makes cutting along that leading edge of the trim look easy. lol
The key is the correct blade. Too many stores sell them with big teeth. Making it much more difficult.
Tight kah nah
You don't need to cut it super tight with the coping saw either, just get it close enough. Afterwards you can use some sandpaper and a file to clean up your cut.
You realize Tommy can do this in his sleep or half a sleep.
@@Guardducks Oh yes, this man could build a small 4 person family home without a sweat.
I like that high tech stud finder he’s using!
Nice job coping. A single cut and perfectly matching the line.
I've tried coping with a coping saw...very difficult to get it perfect, I find using a angle grinder is much easier.
For wide crown molding, this video shows the best method. Great video.
For cutting crown molding, nothing is better than laying it flat on the miter saw and learning what all those interesting numbers on the miter and bevel scales are for.
The way Tom cuts it is correct. Flat really isn’t the best way.
Fantastic video. Thanks for all the tips!! Love your humor :}
That is hands down the best mastery of a coping saw that I have ever seen.
That's real extraordinary teaching
Perfect! Really liked the way you explained and demonstrated. Thanks a lot!
Thank god for you guys. Everyone else is on some other stuff with their videos.
He trusts his nailer
For anyone who is unaware….you can completely avoid intermediate scarf joints by ordering longer lengths of crown from your local architectural Millwork company. Single piece construction…no joints.
Love your videos.
Saludos a todos ustedes son los mejores en su ramo no se diga Tom Silva
English
I was gonna comment about 6:34 but you guys covered it
Gotta love Tom
Thanks for sharing.
Mike: "What's the caulking for?"
Tom: "It's to fill any imperfections in the cut."
Mike: "What's the caulking for?"
Sweet job
Nice job mister
# awesome video...
"what's the caulk for" LOL
im just glad im not the only one that picked up on the "whats the caulk for?" comment
Tommy has done this a few times 👍
Need to know how I get Tom Silva over my house to help out :)
The chalk line moved before he snapped it lol
The home owners probably did not do what Tommy told them to after the ToH crew left
I now have the confidence to execute my project. Wish I would have found this video 20 ago
1:53 that's saw has some serious scar action, nice to know even Tommy fucks up occasionally.
I cut a 22.5 scarf joint because it shows slightly less joint, works the same.
My problem is todays tools don't have a nice back for the crown molding to rest upon and i need to make or expand the deck also. it would be nice if you had a video already archived, but if you could make a video making an extension for the compound miter box for crown molding that would be great 😁
Check out finish carpentry tv on UA-cam here. One of his very first videos shows how to do this 👍
I always thought you lay the crown molding flat to do a scarf joint
Tommy - where are your Dewalt Crown holders ? and its best to paint or stain crown molding before cutting and installing it ! after its hung its must easier to add another coat of paint
More tommy he's the best
Not like I don't like anybody else but you and Connor are funny and awesome
Would nail position matter more if you want to attach the crown to the ceiling only and not the wall? I'm trying to hide a crack between the ceiling and wall due to truss uplift.
Man you just made my life 100 percent earlier. That tape trick was incredible thank you so Much for making this video.
or 200% easier :)
Wow… Depending on how old you are, you doubled your age by watching this video! That’s incredible!
😮 dem window. 👍🏻
I want to install crown molding in a first floor unit (in a condo building) that has concrete between each floor. The ceiling of the first floor unit is concrete. How do you fasten the crown molding to the ceiling when the ceiling is concrete? And, how do you fasten crown molding to the concrete ceiling when one of the walls is brick? The video says to use construction adhesive to attach the crown molding to a brick wall, but what would I use to attach the brick wall crown molding to the concrete ceiling?
Wish i had seen this before we did our molding. Never heard of scarf joint.
Did you butt them?
yes.
A scarf joint helps with two things it one gives more surface area for glue and the eye has a harder time finding a joint that is cut on some sort of a miter than it does on finding a butt joint.
Hearing protection Tom! The saw and even nailer is loud and does damage over time. ;)
“What’s the caulk for?” Haha
You can use the 31degree mark
Look out there is not all the time backing at the ceiling in between the rafters or trusses and you have backing about 3inches down at walls and a lot of people cope the corners I don’t I check if it is a true 90 first same with the out side corners which I cut most of the Time about a 47 degree because of the build up of drywall mud at corners but be sure to caulk all miters and use a good caulk it might cost a little more but worth it , what I have learned in construction is six of one way half dozen of the other that means you will get the same end product no matter how you do it , if you miter the inside corners it will not come apart if done properly so don’t think the way he has done this is the best way just his way
What's the best caulking to use? I've seen crown moldings pull away from the ceiling months later as the weather/temperature changes.
It's truss uplift. Caulking won't do anything to stop it. The sheet rock installers should have held the screws back 16" from the corner so the sheet rock doesn't lift with the trusses. You also don't want to nail the crown into the ceiling, just tack it to the wall and caulk it to the ceiling. If done properly the crown and ceiling sheet rock will stay where they are in the corner as the trusses go up.
@@Aezelllyou are f.. crazy
sawing the angle for the corner joint is fine and dandy for that type of molding, but if you are working with 52/38 edges crown molding that is more decorative, FORGET IT! You will have to miter the corners. Furthermore, if your miter saw does not have a high "fence", as you have seen here, I suggest you either purchase a high end compound miter saw, or look up: COMPOUND MITER SAW ADJUSTMENT CHART FOR CROWN MOLDING.
He can do whatever the hell he wants punk.
He's Tom Silva.
What he does is how you do all crown molding.
You are right
What about outside corners do you make coping 😁
Wow great turn out. What paint color is usually used for crown molding? Is it Semi-gloss like caseing and molding?
Semi gloss for all molding and casings. Eggshell for walls. Flat for ceiling.
I would glue and pin nail joints.
Great video. Q: What is the proper technique to install molding on a popcorn ceiling that we plan to keep?
ridingnorthernlights
Just do it. Caulk and paint the ceiling to the crown. Make that room so much happier!
Dang I wish I had him as a teacher
Seeing Tom Silva cope crown is just.... awesome.
I'll show ya what the caulk's for!
For his fine looking wife lol
I was slightly surprised to see Tommy put caulk on his joint.
6.45 "what's the caulk for?" hahahaha
I've watched a lot of crown moulding inside corner coping saw videos. NOT ONE ever bothers to show the back of the board after they have trimmed it with the coping saw.
I've never seen a coping saw trim before his demonstration.
I can do that with some fish and a yanagiba, but painted wood trim and a coping saw?
Tom's videos are the best because he's so f*cking extra.
Please guys, make a video how to install crown molding on concrete wall thanks
Same as putting it on the brick in this video.
@@acerjuglans383 what if you have a plaster ceiling and plaster over brick walls? Just use construction adhesive? What holds it in place while the glue dries?
is there no header above that window?
Lol, he checks for studs above the window but KNOWS there's wood in the ceiling to nail to. 😂
Is it necessary to hit studs or will the molding hold sufficient when nailed into drywall?
Eovnne. Mik piczak 58 Your April's 281962 58
Yes, if you don’t want the molding to fall off .
7:25 Now is the time where I'll let them her do the work
Do more yard videos
I thought 30 degrees for crown molding and trim cuts better reveal
8:51 BUT WHAT DID SHE SAY?
"NO! Please Tom! Stay!"
Tommy got haircut... 👌
Lol. What if you heard this out of context? "I like to do a butt-cut in the corner."
Tom, want to come teach me some crown install at my house here in Ohio!?
6:34
7:25 not bad
yeah, homeboy definitely out kicked his coverage!!
8:25
Where can you get moulding like that........I've checked Home Depot and Lowes.....and theyy don't have it.
They should have it. If not, Lowe’s should. Also, a local actual lumber yard should have a wide variety of mouldings and such.
I would check a local mill. They typically have more selection, a lower price and higher quality moulding (straighter, fewer knots, etc.).
Nice work but this is one way and another way is to cut compound angles 45 on the 45 , it eliminate the coping saw back cutting and is faster inside corner work, any exposed seams take latex filler, that's how I have done it but Tommy is a pro also and great method as well. This is a two man job really but one man can handle it if he is careful. thanks for sharing this.
He explained that and also why he does not like it.
That is also why he likes a very plain crown.
Ok at 5:44 when he's cutting that cope, why does he cut through the top corner of his piece instead of following the profile???
Alex Fournier because it sits against the the profile of the other piece on the one side! You will find this on every piece that is coped!
Yeah, it's what Angie said. It allows the non-coped moulding to sit well with the coped moulding. Once you try to install it without cutting off that little corner, you'll realize that it needs to be cut off.
Dude's wife was a hottie. Lucky man.
Seriously punching above his weight.
That Crown Molding is about the same curvature as what we call in Australia cornice and it is made from the same product as what you call drywall.
we fit the cornice with cornice adhesive (glue) we fit it to the full length on both edges of the cornice then push the cornice into position then scrape away the adhesive from both the wall and the ceiling and there is no need for any calking. And there is no nail holes to putty up game over!
"and it is made from the same product as what you call drywall" ....nope.
@@Mookaton what are you talking about?
If you have a truss roof in a cold climate, you definitely don't want to nail into the ceiling. Hopefully your drywall on the ceiling is already held back 16" from the wall so it stays down when the trusses lift in the winter, so you don't want your trusses dragging your crown up the wall when they go.
Common that rarely ever happens.
That's cove moulding. Actual crown is considerably more difficult to cut.
Even in a new house ain't no corners, inside or out, ninety degrees. Or at the wall and ceiling. That "caulk" remark at the end, and those gaps at the top, and bottom, of the moulding tell the story.
C'mon Tom, you know the carpenter's favorite old saying: "paint and putty are the carpenters buddy".
My crown job sucks. It always takes me a couple of cuts to get my miters right
Just found this video. How many degrees is the cut?
45°
She looks GORGEOUS 😍😍 (the cope joint I mean....😜😂😂😉😋)
I've yet to see someone install long pieces of coped crown molding in a room. Trim carpenters demonstrate coping in various way but not the install.
Finding a stud is that easy?
Never had a wall be 90 degrees 😂
whats the cxock for
To be honest i don't like coping it's easier for outside corners to open up
I need some more coping saw blades and one popeye arm..
excellent fitting job only thing i would do is were it meets thewall brick work put masking tape either behind the moulding or on the wall try frog tape paint and finish then cut tape of with a sharp knife .this is good for maniac painters lolll
Im confused by the dimensions. Some are like 100 inches by 96 inches long. But ere like a foot long per piece
Why my husband didn’t watch this before doing it? Why???
Doesn’t ask for directions either?
what size nails are used in the gun?
He said 18 gauge 2” brads.
7:25 giggity
You beat me to it.
Jesse Peyton “and that one is also sexual”
if its tight nail it hell yeaaaaa
Baby got a butt cut for sure.
T H I C C
No $1500 Festool Kapex?
Why paint after and not before?
Because when you paint after you know exactly what you'll be painting. You never know whats going to happen and you may need to get a new piece because you made a mistake. Also, you'll be possible adding to the crown moulding.
Is this a 're upload?
yes...but still awesome
Roman bricks from the 50’s