The other advantage to separate inverters and MPPT's is that I have several of them, so if one part fails, I can swap it out with a spare and keep going.
Great video. New diy’er may not be familiar with all the components. Closeup of the shunt how and why. I believe the thing above the battery is a fuse, again close up, why and what size. Thanks for these projects.
Great video. There's just too much tree cover around the house so using solar is problematic. I plan to use a similar setup, leaving it inside the house to keep the refrigerators powered. But run a power cord into the house to recharge the batteries via a portable gas generator placed outside on the deck. The plan is to shut down and secure the generator at night and use it to charge up the batteries during the day.
Great video. I agree with the limitations of the all in one boxes. I have often thought of putting one of these DiY systems in my truck. All the best from north Texas.
Great video. I went the EG4 and server rack battery route and have to agree with you needing 120 volts minimum to start the solar charging is a hassle. But I found a work around buy using my EcoFlow delta max 2000 to charge the EG4 LL battery or by using my Honda 2200 generator when we lose grid power. After seeing your video I think I will build another one similar to yours. Have not decided on whether I will go 12V or still go 48V. Thanks for your video and sharing with us.
@@shelley131 that's actually pretty easy,. It's just 2 wires in and 2 wires out, but i'll try to include that. Having said that, the more I play with these things, the less I see a need for 12v in most applications.
@@texasprepperprojects I have frequent grid outages where I live and because of that I find that power is premium and 12V appliances are my go to during this outages. For example during the freeze here in Texas we stayed warm using 12V electric blankets and sleeping bags. 12V fans during the summer are great and also use 12V refrigerators if the outages last longer than I like and just transfer food from the residential fridge to my dometics. Using a/c power on my power stations are limited to the large freezer in my garage. I don't care about power to the internet or television. I also use 2 cpaps with 12V power.
that actually makes sense. I never had any luck with 12 electric blankets and my queen size pulls 300wh in 8 hours. Also, fans are more efficient the larger that they get. A box fan that pushes 2400cfpm only pulls 60 watts. So, consider those things. But the fridge and Cpap for sure. The 12v step down is an easy add on amzn.to/3WCngHQ
The one thing everyone misses is to show how to program the solar controller the rest is plug and play but the controllers don't always come pre programmed
Server rack battery is way to go. Under 1000 for vatrer 48v and another 500 or so for all in one hybrid inverter. Powmr released a low frequency 5000w version recently.
See my video on 12v 24v. I think 24 is the best. 48v systems require too high of a solar input voltage and the components like inverters are too expensive
I've been searching youtube on these sorts of things. I've made up my mind to build yours. I quite like it. Is there any item or device that is retrospect you would change or add to your system?
If I were to do it again, I'd make a 24v system. Check out my other recent videos. In a 24v system, the current is lower, so it's a little safer and you can use smaller wires. I think that a 24v, 200ah system is just about right.
Check out the MPP Solar 2724LV. It will accept a 30 to 50 volt input from a solar panel or solar panels in parallel. I use a 24 volt solar panel. It has a 2700 watt inverter. Use a 24 volt battery or batteries in parallel.
This was pretty nice...and pretty cheap. I'd like to see a follow up video in 6 months or so, if you don't mind. Did you see my follow up reply on the TDS video?
@@texasprepperprojects Hmmm, for some reason it's not there. The only other tests you can do is: pH Chlorine residual Hardness Odor These tests are simple and do not tell your if the water is safe to drink. If you really want more than that, check to see if your state, county or city offer free or nearly free full analysis tests. Otherwise, you're only other option is a third party laboratory.
I wish you guys would just tell us you can run a refrigerator for like 18 hours you could do the fan and The Notebook for 3 hours and as well as five other light bulbs tell us what that 3840 amp hours can do
Its because I can't. What you need to do is get a Kila watt meter and plug it into your fridge and let it go for 24hours. Every system, every house is a little different. I know that my chest freezer in my garage needs 1kw for 24 hours because i tested it. So, this thing will run my chest freezer for 4 days. But if you have a newer model or a bigger one your number might be different. Watt hours is a great universal measurement but I can't and won't say 'this will last this long' because there are too many variables. Spend $30 on a watt meter and test some stuff!
I have built a couple of DIY systems using 100ah lifepo4 batteries. Thrle problem for me is that their "portability" is marginal at best. I use them around the farm and pulling that cart through the woods or loading it into the back of a SxS isn't practical. I bought a Bluetti product for that application. I use my DIY sytems in my barn.
I like it, good work. I will say however, that it's not a 300 AH system, it's closer to 250 AH after losses. You said it pulled 80 amps for 3.5 hours but it looked more like 70-72 A for a bit less time. That's still only about a 17 % conversion loss which is quite good. I prefer a small propane generator over any battery system. However, I think it's great for a well pump or house lightening. One doesn't want to burn propane until you have to. I also think you could keep the cost a lot lower by using LiPo. How many charge cycles do you need ? I think 300 cycles should suffice to get you out of danger. The 3000 cycles of LiFePhO is over kill in IMHO, but if you have the money then who cares. Lastly, that 50 foot charge cable for solar might be too long. I don't know what your solar system is so it's hard to tell. You might be loosing significant volts and current on a 50 foot run of 12 gauge wire. I'd use that system you built like a large UPS personally.
The inverter is what injects the losses. If you look closely at the monitor screen vs the inverter screen you can see the difference in wattage at the inverter and wattage at the battery. If I was at a pure DC load that would go away. I am in a small neighborhood so I don't want to deal with the noise or fuel storage if a generator though I recognize they are much cheaper
This is great if sticking with 1200w inverter loads or less. Do you know what the surge capacity is on this inverter? I like your idea on switching out the mc4 connectors!
Surges to 2,000w. The biggest load I can think I would want to run is my fridge. I personally don't see the point in running a load over 1,000w for any period of time on battery/solar. If you really need a big load then buy a genny
Hey Scott, I just subscribed great video and awesome directions I have a question as I'm about to build your battery set up. Do I need to put a battery shut off switch and a fuse anywhere? Thank you for your time.
I mentioned this at the end. I personally find switches annoying and I just disconnect the battery wire when I'm done. I also don't use a breaker because the battery has a bms to protect it. Neither is a bad idea, I just dont.
Really nice setup I am trying to make a setup but am not sure how to get started.. just curious is the battery designed to be used up on its side like that?
I have similar setup but with two 200A batteries. It's not portable and it sits on two shelves, one for batteries another for electronics. I have 100A battery to be portable with separate 1500w inverter. Only one thing bothering me is the air flow of my 2000w inverter. When outlets are pointing up the air flows downwards and since hot air is rising it may impede cooling. I have to put together the rack for my two 240 w panels
It's floating since the battery isn't grounded. You could try to ground it to the earth, but you'll have an imbalance between the negative battery and the ground. So, just leave it floating
I just bought a portable solar generator and want to buy solar panels to charge it. I would like to have at least 2 charging points coming from the same solar panels. Are there are any "distribution boxes" or something of the sort that will allow me run cables from the solar panels to different rooms and allow me change which charging point is active at any given time?
@@texasprepperprojects Really? I've been searching online for any such information but I couldn't find anything like that. Please can you describe the process and any items I will need? Thanks a lot!
Yeah I get you. I've seen similar for golf carts that run high voltage. I'm sure it would work but you are going to lose efficiency. I have seen @WillProwse do it with his golf cart
I mentioned this in passing. The wires are just hanging off to the side. this is an emergency system. If I have to hook up the solar, then I'll just unscrew the bolts on the battery and connect the wires from the charge controller. I Could have done a buss bar, breaker, and all of that stuff, but I was trying to show how ultra simple, ultra low cost this could be.
The other advantage to separate inverters and MPPT's is that I have several of them, so if one part fails, I can swap it out with a spare and keep going.
True, i have two inverters and three charge controllers.
Great video. New diy’er may not be familiar with all the components. Closeup of the shunt how and why. I believe the thing above the battery is a fuse, again close up, why and what size. Thanks for these projects.
Thanks
Great video.
There's just too much tree cover around the house so using solar is problematic. I plan to use a similar setup, leaving it inside the house to keep the refrigerators powered. But run a power cord into the house to recharge the batteries via a portable gas generator placed outside on the deck. The plan is to shut down and secure the generator at night and use it to charge up the batteries during the day.
Good plan!
Great video. I agree with the limitations of the all in one boxes. I have often thought of putting one of these DiY systems in my truck. All the best from north Texas.
Thanks! Get ready it's going to be a rough summer
@@texasprepperprojects yes for sure. My first summer in Texas was 1980. Quite a change from growing up in northern Minnesota. Haha
Great video. I went the EG4 and server rack battery route and have to agree with you needing 120 volts minimum to start the solar charging is a hassle. But I found a work around buy using my EcoFlow delta max 2000 to charge the EG4 LL battery or by using my Honda 2200 generator when we lose grid power. After seeing your video I think I will build another one similar to yours. Have not decided on whether I will go 12V or still go 48V. Thanks for your video and sharing with us.
Stand by, I have a 24v system with a LOW input voltage video in the works, which I think is a great compromise!
@@texasprepperprojects I will. Would be neat if you could also show how to connect a 48V to 12V voltage reducer converter thingamajig.
@@shelley131 that's actually pretty easy,. It's just 2 wires in and 2 wires out, but i'll try to include that. Having said that, the more I play with these things, the less I see a need for 12v in most applications.
@@texasprepperprojects I have frequent grid outages where I live and because of that I find that power is premium and 12V appliances are my go to during this outages. For example during the freeze here in Texas we stayed warm using 12V electric blankets and sleeping bags. 12V fans during the summer are great and also use 12V refrigerators if the outages last longer than I like and just transfer food from the residential fridge to my dometics. Using a/c power on my power stations are limited to the large freezer in my garage. I don't care about power to the internet or television. I also use 2 cpaps with 12V power.
that actually makes sense. I never had any luck with 12 electric blankets and my queen size pulls 300wh in 8 hours. Also, fans are more efficient the larger that they get. A box fan that pushes 2400cfpm only pulls 60 watts. So, consider those things. But the fridge and Cpap for sure. The 12v step down is an easy add on amzn.to/3WCngHQ
The one thing everyone misses is to show how to program the solar controller the rest is plug and play but the controllers don't always come pre programmed
all you have to do is go into the charge controller and change it from SLA to LIPO battery type. Or set the charge voltage to 14.5
Server rack battery is way to go. Under 1000 for vatrer 48v and another 500 or so for all in one hybrid inverter. Powmr released a low frequency 5000w version recently.
See my video on 12v 24v. I think 24 is the best. 48v systems require too high of a solar input voltage and the components like inverters are too expensive
I've been searching youtube on these sorts of things. I've made up my mind to build yours. I quite like it. Is there any item or device that is retrospect you would change or add to your system?
If I were to do it again, I'd make a 24v system. Check out my other recent videos. In a 24v system, the current is lower, so it's a little safer and you can use smaller wires. I think that a 24v, 200ah system is just about right.
@@texasprepperprojects Funny you say this because I just spooled up that video.
@@BarbosaUral great!
Check out the MPP Solar 2724LV. It will accept a 30 to 50 volt input from a solar panel or solar panels in parallel. I use a 24 volt solar panel. It has a 2700 watt inverter. Use a 24 volt battery or batteries in parallel.
I have been looking at that model!
This was pretty nice...and pretty cheap. I'd like to see a follow up video in 6 months or so, if you don't mind.
Did you see my follow up reply on the TDS video?
i did not! tell me about it!
@@texasprepperprojects Hmmm, for some reason it's not there.
The only other tests you can do is:
pH
Chlorine residual
Hardness
Odor
These tests are simple and do not tell your if the water is safe to drink.
If you really want more than that, check to see if your state, county or city offer free or nearly free full analysis tests. Otherwise, you're only other option is a third party laboratory.
Nice setup
Thanks!
I wish you guys would just tell us you can run a refrigerator for like 18 hours you could do the fan and The Notebook for 3 hours and as well as five other light bulbs tell us what that 3840 amp hours can do
Its because I can't. What you need to do is get a Kila watt meter and plug it into your fridge and let it go for 24hours. Every system, every house is a little different. I know that my chest freezer in my garage needs 1kw for 24 hours because i tested it. So, this thing will run my chest freezer for 4 days. But if you have a newer model or a bigger one your number might be different. Watt hours is a great universal measurement but I can't and won't say 'this will last this long' because there are too many variables. Spend $30 on a watt meter and test some stuff!
I have built a couple of DIY systems using 100ah lifepo4 batteries. Thrle problem for me is that their "portability" is marginal at best. I use them around the farm and pulling that cart through the woods or loading it into the back of a SxS isn't practical. I bought a Bluetti product for that application. I use my DIY sytems in my barn.
Agreed on portability
Love it and maybe better than the hybrid all-in-one.
Pros and cons. I'd like an all in one just to make ot cleaner but no one makes a 12v version
@@texasprepperprojectsmpp solar makes a 12 volt all in one 1000 watt.
the ebay seller is maximum solar and general goods.
they are 12v in but 230v out. I can't find a 12v in and 120v out. MP solar has a 24V in and 120v out, but not 12v in and 120v out
@@texasprepperprojects mpp solar pip 1012lv-mssolar inverter 110vac Maximum Solar and General Goods
I like it, good work. I will say however, that it's not a 300 AH system, it's closer to 250 AH after losses. You said it pulled 80 amps for 3.5 hours but it looked more like 70-72 A for a bit less time. That's still only about a 17 % conversion loss which is quite good.
I prefer a small propane generator over any battery system. However, I think it's great for a well pump or house lightening. One doesn't want to burn propane until you have to.
I also think you could keep the cost a lot lower by using LiPo. How many charge cycles do you need ? I think 300 cycles should suffice to get you out of danger. The 3000 cycles of LiFePhO is over kill in IMHO, but if you have the money then who cares.
Lastly, that 50 foot charge cable for solar might be too long. I don't know what your solar system is so it's hard to tell. You might be loosing significant volts and current on a 50 foot run of 12 gauge wire. I'd use that system you built like a large UPS personally.
The inverter is what injects the losses. If you look closely at the monitor screen vs the inverter screen you can see the difference in wattage at the inverter and wattage at the battery. If I was at a pure DC load that would go away. I am in a small neighborhood so I don't want to deal with the noise or fuel storage if a generator though I recognize they are much cheaper
This is great if sticking with 1200w inverter loads or less. Do you know what the surge capacity is on this inverter? I like your idea on switching out the mc4 connectors!
Surges to 2,000w. The biggest load I can think I would want to run is my fridge. I personally don't see the point in running a load over 1,000w for any period of time on battery/solar. If you really need a big load then buy a genny
Hey Scott, I just subscribed great video and awesome directions I have a question as I'm about to build your battery set up. Do I need to put a battery shut off switch and a fuse anywhere? Thank you for your time.
I mentioned this at the end. I personally find switches annoying and I just disconnect the battery wire when I'm done. I also don't use a breaker because the battery has a bms to protect it. Neither is a bad idea, I just dont.
Really nice setup I am trying to make a setup but am not sure how to get started.. just curious is the battery designed to be used up on its side like that?
vendor said it was fine. its just a few wires. if you have done a car radio you can do this
I have similar setup but with two 200A batteries. It's not portable and it sits on two shelves, one for batteries another for electronics. I have 100A battery to be portable with separate 1500w inverter. Only one thing bothering me is the air flow of my 2000w inverter. When outlets are pointing up the air flows downwards and since hot air is rising it may impede cooling. I have to put together the rack for my two 240 w panels
Why don't you add a DC fan to keep some air moving?
@@texasprepperprojects I was thinking about it
Thanks for doing this video! What inverter would you have used if you did have a 48V set up? Curious! Thanks again, this was awesome.
Not sure. Probably an eg4
@@texasprepperprojects 🤙💪
Thanks!
what about the ground on the inverter????does anyome know if that ground on the inverter can be connected to the battery ground???
It's floating since the battery isn't grounded. You could try to ground it to the earth, but you'll have an imbalance between the negative battery and the ground. So, just leave it floating
I just bought a portable solar generator and want to buy solar panels to charge it. I would like to have at least 2 charging points coming from the same solar panels. Are there are any "distribution boxes" or something of the sort that will allow me run cables from the solar panels to different rooms and allow me change which charging point is active at any given time?
Yes
@@texasprepperprojects Really? I've been searching online for any such information but I couldn't find anything like that. Please can you describe the process and any items I will need? Thanks a lot!
It's called an MC4 bridge adapter
I heard you can use a Renogy boost converter some how to overcome the minimum solar input voltage of 120v. Any comment?
Forgot to mention that I'm talking about the minimum input voltage of the eg4 all in one
I have used DC DC step ups in the past. I'd do it in a pinch but I don't think it's trust them for daily use
Yeah I get you. I've seen similar for golf carts that run high voltage. I'm sure it would work but you are going to lose efficiency. I have seen @WillProwse do it with his golf cart
Are there any reports of the Li batteries catching fire, like the reports on the elec autos and other devices? Your thoughts?
Very very rare
Very nice set up ...but it's better when you use 24 v system
I do agree with this in a lot of ways. I have 1 24v system and are working on another one. I need a matched set of batteries to do so. Coming soon
Link to Anderson connectors
amzn.to/3VL7CZc
So, Why didn't you show the connection of the charge controller?
I mentioned this in passing. The wires are just hanging off to the side. this is an emergency system. If I have to hook up the solar, then I'll just unscrew the bolts on the battery and connect the wires from the charge controller. I Could have done a buss bar, breaker, and all of that stuff, but I was trying to show how ultra simple, ultra low cost this could be.
Oh man, not another 12V project. 48V is the way to go! Much smaller wires.
My next system will be 24v. The problem with a 48v system is that they require a minimum of 120v of solar input. That's at Least 4 big panels.