Get the bow here: www.mandarinduck.net/ref/725/ North America: APO-1S is sold out. Please write me an email if you want to get notified when the new batch of knives is ready (survivallilly@mailbox.org) Europe: A few pieces of APO-1S are still available.
Love their bows got one for 100 dollars 40lb 3 years ago never took the string off or took good care for it & still shoots just as well as day one. I’ve own some higher quality brands that broke from neglect this is how I test them personally because they are a tool can’t handle abuse I don’t want it.
Also for those reading looking into buying don’t be afraid of a cheaper option of 100-200 dollars because they can surprise you. Your learning no need to spend 600-1500 on a bow. My M-duck bow for 100 has been extremely reliable. Friends who love the hobby who own 800-1500 bows end up loving mine a lot then get shocked at the price tag 😂🤓
I agree with everyone else that this is a terrific "tutorial." It's the most detailed, thorough covereage of the silencing process I've ever seen. THANK YOU.
I’m over here sewing up my ripped couch cushions thinking I’m pretty clever today. Haha! Then here comes Lilly silencing bows. You have an amazing mind Lilly. 🧠
Not to talk down on Lily, but this is something people have been doing for a long time, and a lot of products are already on the market. However, she does show valid ways to do it without special branded materials.
Don't put rubber around the dovetail. It's designed to pivot. There's a reason you are having to shove the limb in there after adding it. They have tight tolerances.
String, limb contact also critical. Wool, yarn wrap, Bowhush silencers can also help. Limb pads, too. I always like rubber "catwiskers" for my recurves! Even a change in string material, hp, or dacron, strand count, endloop serving, can be a game changer! Thanks for sharing Lilly!
Ok I'm new to the recurve game and read that cat whiskers were better than wool for waterproof reasons glad u included the word rubber cause I was looking at my house cat and wondering how in the heek I was going to get enough of them let alone attach them to my bow string
For the cavity that you stuffed with the plastic sheet foam. Try the closed-cell foam from a "pool noodle." You can cut it to an exact size and it - should - go right in nice and snug, completely filling the cavity. Just an idea.
I, too, wondered if the foam packing sheet that Lilly used was closed-cell foam. Using a pice of pool noodle and COMPLETELY filling the riser cavity is a GREAT idea.
Another option if you want to totally fill things, is to stuff a plastic bag in there, then squirt some spray foam inside the bag. They're doing something similar to pack boxes for shipping nowadays
Thank you for this excellent video on silencing a recurve.. In the mid 80s everyone was using compound bows, I tried 2 different ones and went back to my recurve..they are the best in my opinion. Love your videos
Join a club, you learn from each other by asking questions and social interaction. Though, if you're not going hunting you shouldn't silence the bow anyways, as it can affect range.
A good silencer is made by hand from strips of dried rabbit fur rawhide, very thinly cut and tied together in a string whisker. Been using this on my recurve for years and I've tried the rubber ones from the store. The rabbit fur one seems quieter, looks like a ball of fur when its done right.
To enable quicker assembly, try putting a bit of glue or doubleside tape on that rangerband on the side below the bolt head. Also some vaseline on the bottom side of that rangerband. Check your bolt often if you lubricated it,it might get released with vibrations and make noise.
I just found you at youtube, and i am very impressed. Watched a video from 2016. You was afraid of bears, and picked up by helicopter in the end. Comments was turned off on that video. Thank you for all great inspiration!
Lily, I know this is old, but I have a suggestion for you. Instead of using silicon spray on the threads, try automotive silicon from a tube. It not only is a rust preventative, but it will lubricate the threads, and provide sound dampening. It also will not leak out over time.
Excellent video! Have you ever considered using brush buttons? They keep brush and twigs from getting caught in between the string and the bow's limbs, and also help silence the string. It would be interesting to see a comparison between the silencing with brush buttons compared to the Velcro on the limbs. Cheers!
Okay, so take the bows outside, with a sound meter. Place it at 2 meters, 6 meters, 20 meters, and let it record the sound of the bows. Being inside an enclosed space gives false readings.
Thanks Lilly. Great video. I'll add some rubber "washers" to my ILF rig as well and see if it quiets down a bit more. One thing that works well is increasing the arrow weight, too, but you obviously have a distance trade-off. There's no free lunch in archery!
I have texted you before but I don't know if she got my texts or not crazy glue is not a good glue to use to hold anything. When he gets below zero it has a tendency to let loose and then when it does it leaves a rough resin on your boat I would strongly recommend using double stick tape.
Hi Lilly..... It’s better not to spray the anti rust oil into the threaded hole, it can split the metal due to hydraulic pressure. It’s best to lightly spray the thread only. 🦘🦘
Waiting on my new bow to arrive from October Mountain. Was gonna get a Mandarin Duck bow, but didn't want to wait months for international shipping and customs. Thanks for this video. Definitely going to make those dampening upgrades to my bow.
I just got my first ILF bow yesterday. Thanks for all the great advice. I am trying to get my bow setup. So will definitely be using some of these tricks. Great video.
Your videos are so interesting and very well done! I’m inspired to learn archery as a result of watching your great videos. I guess joining a local archery club is the best way to get started? Keep up the most excellent work Lilly!
Maybe an alternative to making your own washers might be checking the standard seals that can be found at hardware stores. You know the ones you can buy in sets of different sizes. I often alienated such seals for different DIY tasks, especially when it came to decoupling connections.
Lilly i put my silencers on my string 8 inch from the top and bottom and have a balancing weight screwed into the front on my compound bow mine is a 95 lb draw my shafts are 3112 my limbs don't vibrate because i do them up dead tight my washers are leather i don't hear my bow...
With heavier hunting arrows the bow will quiet down even more. Does that riser, below the grip, have a place to mount a stabilizer? A bow mounted quiver can sometimes help quiet a bow.
what long bows I have made are so quiet I don’t bother with string silencers .I slightly recurve the tips/ string slots from tips down about 8 inches so string don’t slap. works for me. that’s stick bows made from maple and some red oak and some white oak. the nicest buck around 240 on the hoof eather 17-18 in nice rack to my memory. bow 43 pounds pull 15 yards away. buck stood still 3-4 seconds like what just happened. ran about 35-40 yards- fattest deer I ever shot. I always pray when I get to the stand that I see one and get a clean killing shot for meat to eat and share his bountiful blessings with outhers . works for me. nana and papa aka the hunter wishing you well.
Excelentes trucos para cazar! gracias! un saludo desde la Patagonia Argentina - Excellent hunting tricks! Thank you! greetings from Patagonia Argentina
Nice pointers, appreciate your willingness to try things out and share what works. I've been on the fence about switching to ILF, but I really prefer the flexibility of limb choice as well as the speed of set up/take down it affords. I'm hoping to avoid the resonant cavity by selecting a riser with floating or skeletal limb pockets, but the washer ideas will come in handy regardless. Speaking of, that spring loaded pin is often referred to as a "detent" in commercial and industrial applications. Sometimes they are adjustable, or can be taken apart to allow for a different strength spring to be used, based on the needs of the task. But this isn't necessarily the case, and forcing the components apart will likely damage them beyond repair. In this instance, it may be possible to inject some heavy grease (green is good) into the area behind the pin, minimizing any vibration from the spring while it is installed in the riser. That'll also provide some added moisture protection when using the bow in the field. Just my two cents, or five. 👍🏻🏹
@@forgetyourlife A simple answer to your question is yes, ILF is a bit quicker on setup, once a couple things are checked and tuning is complete. ILF and similar systems (Hoyts for example) have more adjustments to them, affecting limb alignment to the riser and each other, along with arrowrest depth, plungers (if used), sights, clickers, etc., making precise tuning possible. But that also means things can arrive not set "perfectly" for you, or can fall out of adjustment through use.
@@JesseCohen after watching this complete video I also curious why Lilly even bothers with ILF. She stated that they both don’t take them down much when going to the range etc. what’s the point then, why not just a regular “less loud” recurve and skip all the hassle?
The reflex-deflex longbow/recurve hybrid designed bows that have gained popularity over the last ten years or so do not suffer from string slapping the limbs like some recurve bows exhibit. The lower quality bows will almost always shoot louder than a high end recurve or long bow. You get what you pay for. If you are new to archery, buy a Samick or other cost effective bow to learn the basics AND find a draw weight that works accurately for you. After which, buy a high end bow from a reputable maker at a draw weight that you can shoot accurately. I grew up shooting and deer hunting with recurve and bows instinctively since I was 8 years old. I am in my mid-forties now. My favorite bow presently is a Toelke Pika. It shoots fast, light weight and very silent. It has some rubber "spider" string silencers which came with the bow/string. I have been using this bow for the last 5 years for pleasure shooting and deer hunting. It is an outstanding bow made by outstanding craftsmen.
You'd be surprised at the variety of pure rubber washers, inside/outside diameters and thickness of well stocked plumbing department at a large hardware store...
Without appearing to be sexist, and I apologise in advance, but it is so refreshing to see a young, attractive woman testing and exhibiting survival techniques in what would normally be deemed a " Man's world". Keep up the good work, you are certainly an excellent role model for young women.
ich bin mir nicht sicher ob du durch das unterlegen an der rechten Seite, den winkel so stark veränderst, dass die klemmung an der schraube im video links dann nicht mehr eben aufliegt. Du musstest ja die schraube etwas lösen um noch mit dem Bogenarm drunter zu kommen. Nicht das dort an der Schraube der bogenarm dann rund um die schraube ungleich belastet wird und der arm beschädigt wird. Zeit wird es zeigen. Ich hoffe alles bleibt in Takt @survival Lilly
If you make this silencing in limbpocket, doesn't it affect the ILF system, specially when you try to change the draw weight? I saw you screwed in the limb bolts all the way. So, are you using maximum draw weight?
I’m looking at getting an ilf for this hunting season but don’t know wht riser and limb length to go with …. I have a 28” draw and am trying to go with a 62 inch bow …. Do you think a 19” with medium limbs or a 17” with longs would work better ? Looking at a Morrison or tradtech riser
I hope you do some improvised fire starting videos with no natural materials. What if I was isolated in an apartment building with no power, food or water? Our nature is to stay home and try to survive in our home. When does that become a bad idea?
I picked up the hobby thanks to watching Lily's videos. I brought a D&Q 50lb recurve kit from Amazon for £120,but the do bows under £100.Took me a while to get the hang of it, but find it a nice bow to use.
Silicone will also work to quiet the vibrations in the limb pocket. Using rubber innertubes for reducing vibrations has also been used for decades because rubber doesn't absorb water. For string silencers, cut two 3 inch X 1.5 inch pieces of an innertube, then 1/8 inch slits along its length (so that it looks "frayed"), then install one about 12-16 inches above and below the nocking point, adjust as necessary. You can buy them pre-made, or just make your own!
The main problem with noisy bow is the fact that most trad archers will use arrows that are too light. They want speed of course, but the bow is delivering too much energy to push the arrow is lost in the limbs, then vibration and noise take the best part of the bow energy, an heavier arrow will take a bit more time to quit the bowstring but momentum is the key here. Stop focusing only in kinetic energy, Instead of a fast car...take a pickup... I am a trad bowhunter since 1989, and i alway used heavy well tuned arrows, still use now and probably will for the rest of my life...
great video lilly, however, i would like to suggest that you keep at least one of the original washers to use as a pattern for in the future whenever you have to replace the innertube washers that you made.
Personally for myself i may have used some thin Kid leather glued to the limbs, it would do a similar job without being taking up too much room meaning that limb remaval and fitting would have been easier. However, that aside, excellant video. made me think
Looking forward to seeing your techniques for arrow making for upcoming videos. You seem to prefer wood arrows. Any opinions on using aluminum or carbon (Kelvar) arrows? I don't have any preferences on arrow shafts materials. Just have aluminum arrows because all the local arrow makers just use Easton aluminum arrow shafts. A long arrow at 34-inches, 86.4-cm. So I have aluminum by default.
Presumably, as long as your aim is accurate the first time, silencing should not matter. I don't suppose most people would know to react to that sound.
What would you say is a good beginner recurve to use? One you would trust to use yourself without sacrificing performance and durability but won't break the bank.
It kind of surprised me that you couldn't screw the bolt down further. I mean, seeing how easily you can click the limbs in, I was legitimately worried that they would actually come lose under recoil. That's really quite loose, even for a 30-40 pound target bow. So in addition to making it more silent, by reducing the overal space between the keyhole and the locking lug (for lack of a better term) you probably also made it a little bit safer to use with heavier drawweights.
If you're careful in disassembly, you should be able to apply these concepts, and those she used in silencing her Mandarin Duck bow (further back in her videos) to the bow of your crossbow. I'd say at the very least, if you can get the string off and add in some dampening material, that ought to help tremendously!
Get the bow here: www.mandarinduck.net/ref/725/
North America: APO-1S is sold out. Please write me an email if you want to get notified when the new batch of knives is ready (survivallilly@mailbox.org)
Europe: A few pieces of APO-1S are still available.
What about indonesia??
Are you still dating Canadian prepper...his channel getting.....extreme...just wondering..and worrying
Happy to see you doing well😇
Love their bows got one for 100 dollars 40lb 3 years ago never took the string off or took good care for it & still shoots just as well as day one. I’ve own some higher quality brands that broke from neglect this is how I test them personally because they are a tool can’t handle abuse I don’t want it.
Also for those reading looking into buying don’t be afraid of a cheaper option of 100-200 dollars because they can surprise you. Your learning no need to spend 600-1500 on a bow. My M-duck bow for 100 has been extremely reliable. Friends who love the hobby who own 800-1500 bows end up loving mine a lot then get shocked at the price tag 😂🤓
Those bolts also strongly influence the tiller, the power-balance between the two limbs. Correct and consistent tiller is VERY important.
I agree with everyone else that this is a terrific "tutorial." It's the most detailed, thorough covereage of the silencing process I've ever seen. THANK YOU.
Agreed!
I’m over here sewing up my ripped couch cushions thinking I’m pretty clever today. Haha! Then here comes Lilly silencing bows. You have an amazing mind Lilly. 🧠
That sounds pretty clever too 👍
Not to talk down on Lily, but this is something people have been doing for a long time, and a lot of products are already on the market. However, she does show valid ways to do it without special branded materials.
Don't put rubber around the dovetail. It's designed to pivot. There's a reason you are having to shove the limb in there after adding it. They have tight tolerances.
So how would you silence it?
@@Иванпонимаете-г4шSoft cotton balls
the reason she had to shove the limb in is because the rubber is dry. if it were lubed it would slip right in and allow pivoting.
String, limb contact also critical.
Wool, yarn wrap, Bowhush silencers can also help. Limb pads, too.
I always like rubber "catwiskers" for my recurves!
Even a change in string material, hp, or dacron, strand count, endloop serving, can be a game changer!
Thanks for sharing Lilly!
Ok I'm new to the recurve game and read that cat whiskers were better than wool for waterproof reasons glad u included the word rubber cause I was looking at my house cat and wondering how in the heek I was going to get enough of them let alone attach them to my bow string
For the cavity that you stuffed with the plastic sheet foam. Try the closed-cell foam from a "pool noodle." You can cut it to an exact size and it - should - go right in nice and snug, completely filling the cavity. Just an idea.
I, too, wondered if the foam packing sheet that Lilly used was closed-cell foam. Using a pice of pool noodle and COMPLETELY filling the riser cavity is a GREAT idea.
Another option if you want to totally fill things, is to stuff a plastic bag in there, then squirt some spray foam inside the bag. They're doing something similar to pack boxes for shipping nowadays
Thank you for this excellent video on silencing a recurve..
In the mid 80s everyone was using compound bows, I tried 2 different ones and went back to my recurve..they are the best in my opinion.
Love your videos
I would love to have you as an archery instructor. You teach not only shooting but bow and arrow construction.
Join a club, you learn from each other by asking questions and social interaction. Though, if you're not going hunting you shouldn't silence the bow anyways, as it can affect range.
A good silencer is made by hand from strips of dried rabbit fur rawhide, very thinly cut and tied together in a string whisker. Been using this on my recurve for years and I've tried the rubber ones from the store. The rabbit fur one seems quieter, looks like a ball of fur when its done right.
All good tips. My last two bows were stick bows made by a friend. I don't hunt anymore but I appreciate good tips. Thank you. Cheers!
The best silencing aid for strings is simple yarn. Preferably wool. It can be woven into the string itself and is very durable.
To enable quicker assembly, try putting a bit of glue or doubleside tape on that rangerband on the side below the bolt head. Also some vaseline on the bottom side of that rangerband. Check your bolt often if you lubricated it,it might get released with vibrations and make noise.
I just found you at youtube, and i am very impressed. Watched a video from 2016. You was afraid of bears, and picked up by helicopter in the end. Comments was turned off on that video. Thank you for all great inspiration!
Putting the washers under the plunger may alter bow tiller.You do not mention if you check that,or adjust tiller ......
Lily, I know this is old, but I have a suggestion for you. Instead of using silicon spray on the threads, try automotive silicon from a tube. It not only is a rust preventative, but it will lubricate the threads, and provide sound dampening. It also will not leak out over time.
Excellent video! Have you ever considered using brush buttons? They keep brush and twigs from getting caught in between the string and the bow's limbs, and also help silence the string. It would be interesting to see a comparison between the silencing with brush buttons compared to the Velcro on the limbs. Cheers!
Okay, so take the bows outside, with a sound meter. Place it at 2 meters, 6 meters, 20 meters, and let it record the sound of the bows. Being inside an enclosed space gives false readings.
Yes for years I've used bushy tufts of foxtail. This also prevents leaves and twigs from wedging under the string.
Thanks Lilly. Great video. I'll add some rubber "washers" to my ILF rig as well and see if it quiets down a bit more. One thing that works well is increasing the arrow weight, too, but you obviously have a distance trade-off. There's no free lunch in archery!
if you put grease on the new rubber washer it will slide right in.
I love your show and respect your advice. I have always wanted to get into bow hunting and your YT vids have convinced me the way to go
I have texted you before but I don't know if she got my texts or not crazy glue is not a good glue to use to hold anything. When he gets below zero it has a tendency to let loose and then when it does it leaves a rough resin on your boat I would strongly recommend using double stick tape.
Hi Lilly..... It’s better not to spray the anti rust oil into the threaded hole, it can split the metal due to hydraulic pressure. It’s best to lightly spray the thread only. 🦘🦘
Waiting on my new bow to arrive from October Mountain. Was gonna get a Mandarin Duck bow, but didn't want to wait months for international shipping and customs. Thanks for this video. Definitely going to make those dampening upgrades to my bow.
I would use grease not thin oil/lubricant , I’m sure that would work better & last longer
I just got my first ILF bow yesterday. Thanks for all the great advice. I am trying to get my bow setup. So will definitely be using some of these tricks. Great video.
I always check my tillers and i added limb dampers, helps a lot. Greetings.
Your videos are so interesting and very well done! I’m inspired to learn archery as a result of watching your great videos. I guess joining a local archery club is the best way to get started? Keep up the most excellent work Lilly!
I'm new to archery and I very much enjoy watching your videos Keep up the good work and thank you, rc
i just bought my first bow a week ago, and i absolutely love the sound it makes.
Great ! I just followed your instructions and tested the quieter bow . Thank you !
Good idea to save the washer for when the rubbers need to be replaced or wear out and next how about silicone to fill that void?
Maybe an alternative to making your own washers might be checking the standard seals that can be found at hardware stores. You know the ones you can buy in sets of different sizes. I often alienated such seals for different DIY tasks, especially when it came to decoupling connections.
Thanks Lilly for this informative video. 👍😁
Rubber "cat's whiskers" work just fine and they can be tied so as to evenly balance out.
Lilly i put my silencers on my string 8 inch from the top and bottom and have a balancing weight screwed into the front on my compound bow mine is a 95 lb draw my shafts are 3112 my limbs don't vibrate because i do them up dead tight my washers are leather i don't hear my bow...
the first video of yours that i ever saw was you silencing a different recurve bow years ago ; stay awesome lilly =]
With heavier hunting arrows the bow will quiet down even more. Does that riser, below the grip, have a place to mount a stabilizer? A bow mounted quiver can sometimes help quiet a bow.
what long bows I have made are so quiet I don’t bother with string silencers .I slightly recurve the tips/ string slots from tips down about 8 inches so string don’t slap. works for me. that’s stick bows made from maple and some red oak and some white oak. the nicest buck around 240 on the hoof eather 17-18 in nice rack to my memory. bow 43 pounds pull 15 yards away. buck stood still 3-4 seconds like what just happened. ran about 35-40 yards- fattest deer I ever shot. I always pray when I get to the stand that I see one and get a clean killing shot for meat to eat and share his bountiful blessings with outhers . works for me. nana and papa aka the hunter wishing you well.
Excelentes trucos para cazar! gracias! un saludo desde la Patagonia Argentina - Excellent hunting tricks! Thank you! greetings from Patagonia Argentina
Nice pointers, appreciate your willingness to try things out and share what works. I've been on the fence about switching to ILF, but I really prefer the flexibility of limb choice as well as the speed of set up/take down it affords. I'm hoping to avoid the resonant cavity by selecting a riser with floating or skeletal limb pockets, but the washer ideas will come in handy regardless. Speaking of, that spring loaded pin is often referred to as a "detent" in commercial and industrial applications. Sometimes they are adjustable, or can be taken apart to allow for a different strength spring to be used, based on the needs of the task. But this isn't necessarily the case, and forcing the components apart will likely damage them beyond repair. In this instance, it may be possible to inject some heavy grease (green is good) into the area behind the pin, minimizing any vibration from the spring while it is installed in the riser. That'll also provide some added moisture protection when using the bow in the field. Just my two cents, or five. 👍🏻🏹
Isnt ILF faster to put together? You just snap them in and string it, done. Faster than a knurled take down nut.
@@forgetyourlife A simple answer to your question is yes, ILF is a bit quicker on setup, once a couple things are checked and tuning is complete. ILF and similar systems (Hoyts for example) have more adjustments to them, affecting limb alignment to the riser and each other, along with arrowrest depth, plungers (if used), sights, clickers, etc., making precise tuning possible. But that also means things can arrive not set "perfectly" for you, or can fall out of adjustment through use.
@@JesseCohen after watching this complete video I also curious why Lilly even bothers with ILF. She stated that they both don’t take them down much when going to the range etc. what’s the point then, why not just a regular “less loud” recurve and skip all the hassle?
@@forgetyourlife paid promotions by the manufacturer who donated the bows.
Thanks. I learned quite some things from you before my first bow arrive
The reflex-deflex longbow/recurve hybrid designed bows that have gained popularity over the last ten years or so do not suffer from string slapping the limbs like some recurve bows exhibit. The lower quality bows will almost always shoot louder than a high end recurve or long bow. You get what you pay for. If you are new to archery, buy a Samick or other cost effective bow to learn the basics AND find a draw weight that works accurately for you. After which, buy a high end bow from a reputable maker at a draw weight that you can shoot accurately. I grew up shooting and deer hunting with recurve and bows instinctively since I was 8 years old. I am in my mid-forties now. My favorite bow presently is a Toelke Pika. It shoots fast, light weight and very silent. It has some rubber "spider" string silencers which came with the bow/string. I have been using this bow for the last 5 years for pleasure shooting and deer hunting. It is an outstanding bow made by outstanding craftsmen.
Lilly in her basement shop making stuff, I could watch videos like this for hours... Basement shop = Toy room for adults :)
Never in million years I would be interested in bow and arrow, but now that I know they come with silencer...
"Toy room for adults :)", you are wrong. A toy room for adults looks different, more like a dungeon.
You'd be surprised at the variety of pure rubber washers, inside/outside diameters and thickness of well stocked plumbing department at a large hardware store...
Thank you so much for your videos. When and if you are able, will you please show us how an ILF bow performs differently with different limbs.
Du machst das wirklich gut.
i am looking to get into this in the UK in the north. hope to be going for a beginners coarse in April :)
Is It sanlida riser? On hoyt risers this is not happens with the tillers
Without appearing to be sexist, and I apologise in advance, but it is so refreshing to see a young, attractive woman testing and exhibiting survival techniques in what would normally be deemed a " Man's world". Keep up the good work, you are certainly an excellent role model for young women.
So I did this but not only did I make washers I put a strip behind each of the limbs. Unfortunately I don't have any fur yet.
I have a new bow, thank you for the lesson, I needed to see them again
Great information here !! Good video I myself loves the traditional bow no limbs that you have to play with !!
Great job Lilly.... Love your bow and plan to buy one in the very near future!... Great survival idea! Any idea of good hunting arrows (razor tip)???
Great modifications, thank you for sharing! 👍
Use silicone cauk or aquarium cement.
I like ur video about recurve bows and silencing methods.. can u make a DIY video on short/long recurve bow??
Excellent. Keep shooting Lilly. 🏹✌
ich bin mir nicht sicher ob du durch das unterlegen an der rechten Seite, den winkel so stark veränderst, dass die klemmung an der schraube im video links dann nicht mehr eben aufliegt. Du musstest ja die schraube etwas lösen um noch mit dem Bogenarm drunter zu kommen. Nicht das dort an der Schraube der bogenarm dann rund um die schraube ungleich belastet wird und der arm beschädigt wird. Zeit wird es zeigen. Ich hoffe alles bleibt in Takt @survival Lilly
If you make this silencing in limbpocket, doesn't it affect the ILF system, specially when you try to change the draw weight? I saw you screwed in the limb bolts all the way. So, are you using maximum draw weight?
I’m looking at getting an ilf for this hunting season but don’t know wht riser and limb length to go with …. I have a 28” draw and am trying to go with a 62 inch bow …. Do you think a 19” with medium limbs or a 17” with longs would work better ? Looking at a Morrison or tradtech riser
I hope you do some improvised fire starting videos with no natural materials. What if I was isolated in an apartment building with no power, food or water? Our nature is to stay home and try to survive in our home. When does that become a bad idea?
The lessons you give us are Immensely Invaluable !!
I Cherish Them As The Best Out There !
As for Knives, I Like Bowie or Rambo Type......sorry....
What Archery Set would you recommend for a beginner under £100? UK money.👍
I picked up the hobby thanks to watching Lily's videos. I brought a D&Q 50lb recurve kit from Amazon for £120,but the do bows under £100.Took me a while to get the hang of it, but find it a nice bow to use.
Lilly, you're a genius. 🤓👍
What type of bow is that it looks like a really comfortable bow to shoot
Silicone will also work to quiet the vibrations in the limb pocket.
Using rubber innertubes for reducing vibrations has also been used for decades because rubber doesn't absorb water.
For string silencers, cut two 3 inch X 1.5 inch pieces of an innertube, then 1/8 inch slits along its length (so that it looks "frayed"), then install one about 12-16 inches above and below the nocking point, adjust as necessary.
You can buy them pre-made, or just make your own!
What if you put silly putty where you put the foam?
The main problem with noisy bow is the fact that most trad archers will use arrows that are too light. They want speed of course, but the bow is delivering too much energy to push the arrow is lost in the limbs, then vibration and noise take the best part of the bow energy, an heavier arrow will take a bit more time to quit the bowstring but momentum is the key here. Stop focusing only in kinetic energy, Instead of a fast car...take a pickup... I am a trad bowhunter since 1989, and i alway used heavy well tuned arrows, still use now and probably will for the rest of my life...
I was wondering if you could do something to make the arrows fly faster?
Get lighter arrows or pull more weight.
Smaller fletching's, thinner bowstring.
Great series on the ebay bows! Super tricks zum Nachmachen, einfach Spitze.
Nice Work Lilly!!
Every time you fit and remove limbs you're screwing with the bow's tiller setting. At the very least you need to count turns.
great video lilly, however, i would like to suggest that you keep at least one of the original washers to use as a pattern for in the future whenever you have to replace the innertube washers that you made.
Personally for myself i may have used some thin Kid leather glued to the limbs, it would do a similar job without being taking up too much room meaning that limb remaval and fitting would have been easier. However, that aside, excellant video. made me think
Looking forward to seeing your techniques for arrow making for upcoming videos. You seem to prefer wood arrows. Any opinions on using aluminum or carbon (Kelvar) arrows?
I don't have any preferences on arrow shafts materials. Just have aluminum arrows because all the local arrow makers just use Easton aluminum arrow shafts. A long arrow at 34-inches, 86.4-cm. So I have aluminum by default.
My arrows are carbon with wooden look
I have to agree, I to would love to have you as my archery instructor.
Presumably, as long as your aim is accurate the first time, silencing should not matter. I don't suppose most people would know to react to that sound.
Hi.
Would be interesting to try out polyurethane spray paint for loading areas. Could work, too.
Greeting
what brand limbs do you use on yours?
Wieder sehr interessant wie du den Bogen leise machst. ... Viel Spaß beim Schießen :)
What would you say is a good beginner recurve to use? One you would trust to use yourself without sacrificing performance and durability but won't break the bank.
Samick sage
Really like your videos.i can recomend Broadband Solid Limb Dampener
Have them on my bow .lm very satisfied with them.removes alotta of noise.
Hello. Lilly what's the name of your bow? I think is prototype, but don't now original model name.
How about Grolsch beer bottle cap seal..?...
Try thin sheet of cork?
Tap washer / O ring 👍
Red rubber grease
thanks for the insightful tips will def try that
Love your videos...great job!
It is a very good and quick to do arc silencing system, great idea. Hello, good day👍
thanks for the information, lilly
It kind of surprised me that you couldn't screw the bolt down further. I mean, seeing how easily you can click the limbs in, I was legitimately worried that they would actually come lose under recoil. That's really quite loose, even for a 30-40 pound target bow.
So in addition to making it more silent, by reducing the overal space between the keyhole and the locking lug (for lack of a better term) you probably also made it a little bit safer to use with heavier drawweights.
They won't come out. Once inside the dovetail slot and strung they're under constant tension and won't go anywhere.
Examine the ILF design a bit closer.
Back 2 my mancave.. (thanx master Lilly) ☮️
I'm to week for a longbow so it's crossbow for me and they are very loud. Do you have any suggestions.
If you're careful in disassembly, you should be able to apply these concepts, and those she used in silencing her Mandarin Duck bow (further back in her videos) to the bow of your crossbow. I'd say at the very least, if you can get the string off and add in some dampening material, that ought to help tremendously!
Lilly how silent can primitive bows become?
THIS IS SO USEFULL. AWESOME. THANKS SO MUCH.
Did you use white out to mark washer? How about a fine point silver sharper. Looks very sloppy
I just now noticed.... r those limbs
Bamboo lament r solid Bamboo????????
How do you make arrows😬
You are a Bow Pro !! Awesome video.