Track cleaning for model railways
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2024
- Track cleaning, something we all love to hate on our model railways! Inspired by a recent video from Fishplate Films -
• Track cleaning do's an... I present a Simon's Shed Science episode all about track cleaning for model railways.
HI Simon,
Thank you for the shout out on my video! As you say , a few weeks is not really enough of a test, as it took almost a year for me to start having issues with IPA . You can do a test and pour a small amount on a glass or metal surface and leave it dry, you will see a small amount of powder / residue left behind and this is the issue that builds up over time when used as a track cleaner. Innox and CRC2-26 are not contact cleaners,as such but leave a fine film to protect the rails form conductivity issues and they will also help remove dirt from wheels and rails, which you remove when you wipe the rails.
I use Innox on real railway signalling equipment at work , so it works on big trains too..LOL
Thanks again and all the best.
Gregg .
Inox is a repellant for dirt and dust [ Electrical ]. The positive is that
it lubricates like fishplate said in his video. WD 40 is a lubricant for coating the distributor in your car.[ Mechanical ] The birdwood sub has lots of places where he cannot reach but he does not have any running problems .Greg works for Queensland Rail { QR } on Electrical maintenance and is very highly qualified.
Watched with interest. Decided to use white vinegar. Brilliant results for a DCC layout on
track first laid over 30 years ago! (PECO nickel silver)
I am new to railway modelling this was a easy to understand video, thank you Simon...
I seen the same video and agree the alcohol and other methods leave residue and debris on your rail. I found a CRC product for cleaning electric components that works wonders. My trains have never run so well for so long between cleaning. The cleaner I use is safe for plastis and doesn't eat the paint off the rails or grade crossings. Definitely worth a try. Tim
Will give this a go.
I use CRC 2-26, which is produced in the US. It is the same as Fishplate Film's product. Like what you found with the WD-40 (not something that I would recommend) N scale trains do not run well immediately after using it, but leave it for 24 hours and everything runs well. I used to use a track rubber, and still occasionally still do to get some hard to move gunk that found its way onto the track, but then burnish the rails with a metal washer (making sure that the power to the track is off) and follow-up with a quick vacuum of the track and finally apply the CRC 2-26. I have used a piece of cork, a cloth or a piece of cardboard to apply it, and in all cases, it is amazing how much dirt still appears on the applicator.
In my environment, I found that after just using a track rubber, the track needed cleaning again within a week, but after using the CRC 2-26, I can go over a month before I need to clean track. A friend of mine, who was one of the people who put me onto CRC, claims he can go 6 months between cleaning, but he runs O scale.
I tried isopropanol, track rubber and brake fluid. Best by far has been CRC 2-26. Apply and let dry. Then enjoy your trains.
Home Depot $3.00 small can.
The best material for track cleaning is Mineral Spirits, does not contain water nor does it leave a residue. Haven't ran my trains in about 2 months and no shakes or stalling out. Happy Modeling
Thanks Simon. I seriously doubt a week and a bit is a long enough time to measure results. I trust Greg from Fishplate films primarily due to his in depth explanation of each cleaner but more so because of his certifications as an electrician (20+ years) and his own research.
Fishplate Films didnt recommend WD40 mate. He actually warned people off it. He recommended INOX.
I had some old dirty tracks that’s was not barley running at all after I clean rail with wd40 it work smooth right after
To make this as fair as possible, you should perhaps have cleaned the loco wheels and pick-ups between tests.
I started using "NOXID A Specal" it is an electrical contact grease. you need to clean the track using isopropyl then apply a very thin layer by using a very clean finger and then rubbing over with a wine cork.
Upside is it lasts a long very time before you need to do it again, the downside is you might get traction problems if your application is too thick or gradients are more than 2.5 - 3.4 (or you like insanely long US style trains)
Best way I've found is to use high concentrate IPA (99%) and use a small square of Masonite. I have a friend who works at a supermarket, and they use Masonite board in between layers of stock on pallets, so I can get an unlimited supply (also makes great fascia boards!). Using the ROUGH side, put a small amount of IPA on, and rub the track with that. The rough side of the Masonite seems to soak up the small amount of water, and it will take up the dirt and grit, but is soft enough not to damage the track. Be careful with things like electrical contact cleaner. They do great to keep the rails conductive, but they can be pretty bad for spreading muck around the track, and ESPECIALLY onto loco wheels!
Masonite is known as hardboard in the UK.
Here's how to build a track cleaning car at home using Masonite (hardboard).
wpporter.worthygems.com/trackcleaner.php
Greg Rientjes you need to watch Fishplate Films to see why you SHOULDN’T use IPA to clean track!
I use CRC and find that it works really well. If using locos with traction tyres I make sure to wipe the rails with a dry cloth as it does cause wheel slip If it’s left soaked all over the rails.
Have used WD-40, 99% IPA and Track Cleaner, only main difference I've noticed is the price but they all generally worked well on some of my layouts.
Do need to get myself a powered Track Cleaner at some point, only got the Gaugemaster unpowered one which seems to work alright but isn't much more than a track rubber in a weighted wagon.
Nice to see all three loops running now Simon!
Thanks for watching, its good to get all of the tracks running again...now I can do a running session video!
Be careful with using the powered track cleaner, a friend of mine has just had two locos repaired by an expert who put the failures down to the track cleaner. He has now disconnected the cleaner from his layout. I'd check out a few forums before you part with your cash. It seems to be suited to DC layouts using older locos with more basic motors.
The one I've been eyeing up is the Gaugemaster remake of the Tomytec powered cleaner as it's the same livery as the unpowered one (just for consistency), luckily for my layout it's just a matter of switching the controllers to switch between DC/DCC so that isn't an issue, though might look at getting an older loco to pull it round to be on the safe side.
Cheers for the warning!
@@GosportRailworks no probs, though we may be on different pages! The one I was referring to is their electronic track cleaner that is wired to the layout as a permanent device.
No worries, still it's better to be safe than sorry considering the price of models.
Simon thanks for the video..Much appreciated it..
When I had a gauge 1 garden railway with a mixture of Aristocraft and Peco track, an application of WD40 (without wiping off) letting the trains spread it around the track, would make an immediate difference to the running of the locos. Electrical pick-up was enhanced and it had the additional benefit of flange lubrication on the tight radius curves.
Although most of my rolling stock had metal-tyred wheels, there was no damage to any plastic wheeled stock. The track was in use for several years, with exposure to the weather and bird droppings, but the WD40 coped admirably with all that. The only damage that ever occurred was a nearby lightning strike frying the output transistor on the power supply.
For my more recent indoor 00 gauge lines, I use a Peco cleaning block or a fibreglass electrical contact cleaner stick.
Very interesting comparison Simon. I'm sure the debate on track cleaning will go on!
Gregg at Fishplateflims know what he taking about. I use AC-6000, works great. Bob
I bought a product to fix the connection issues I had with the trailer plug/socket on my car (which gets exposed to road salt in winter). The label on the product insisted that after cleaning I needed to use their other product on the connection to prevent re-oxidation. It worked ok. Doing some research online I found out that the cleaner was isopropanol and the protecter was isopropanol + some hydrocarbons similar to those found in CRC 5-56 / WD-40... I think this applies to many contact/electrical cleaners...
Speaking of science, Joe at MRH magazine has the following to say about track cleaning: "Anything in the non-polar range is "best". Best really is what's cheapest, and the La Mesa club is getting superb results with mineral spirits, so I'd recommend starting there. The dielectric constant isn't the only consideration -- there's also how any solvent reside ages. Mineral spirits is more of a solvent, s will both clean and protect -- a great balance. Finally, a very light treatment on the inner railhead with a graphite stick will add that extra touch to help protect the wheels and rail from rapid oxidation from micro-arcing."
Joe also states: "I don't recommend ISO alcohol for cleaning track (or wheels) any longer. The La Mesa club has found track and wheels get dirty with black gunk a lot quicker when cleaned with alcohol so they have banned its use for cleaning wheels or track. Chemists know that non-polar solvents make the best electrical cleaners because they don't encourage new oxidation later as much as polar solvents. Non-polar solvents: - mineral spirits - turpentine - kerosene - toluene (nasty stuff, though) Semi-polar solvent: - ethyl acetate Polar solvents: - isopropyl alcohol - ethyl alcohol - denatured alcohol - acetone - ammonia Better choices for cleaning electrical surfaces are the non-polar solvents or at least a semi-polar like ethyl acetate. If your reaction to this news is: "I've never had a problem with the polar solvents", I challenge you to try cleaning wheels and track with a non-polar solvent instead. You may find things stay cleaner longer! The non-polar solvents reduce micro-racing and oxidation of active electrical surfaces. You who have been in the hobby for a while may remember the "clipper oil keeps your track clean longer" discussion from decades ago. Clipper oil is NON-POLAR. Also, if you check contact cleaners like DeToxIt or CRC-26, you will find they're slightly oily, which means they're also non-polar in nature."
I liked your use of corrugated cardboard as a mildly abrasive cleaning pad.
Wd 40 is oil so it leaves a residue on the track
WD stands for Water Displacement. It actually leaves a waxy film. Even worse than oil.
I have purchased some Inox MX3 from Pendle Slot Racing to try - this is the stuff the Australian chap was recommending.
interesting, will take a look 👍
I hope it works well for you Paddy! DOn't use too much remember!!
Cheers Gregg.
I use lighter fluid, (naphtha), when my track is really dirty. It's readily available.
There are two kinds of Isopropyl Alcohol sold in the UK. 70% and 99% pure. The 70% kind has water in it. It's the 99% pure that you want for cleaning the track. It's prohibited to send flammable solvents such as IPA by Royal Mail. It is you, the one who ordered it, that will be held responsible. If you do order it, make sure it's sent by courier.
WD-40 stands for Water Dispersant 40th formula. It was developed for use on the Atlas Rocket to prevent rust and corrosion. It can attack some kinds of plastics. I've read of a plastic modeller using it on the wheels of his aircraft model which melted and dropped off. When the solvent in WD-40 dries it leaves a black gunk. I know. I used it many years ago on my living room door hinges. Can't get the stuff off the door. :-p The only model railway use is to oil the hinges on your garden gate so the other half doesn't hear the postie delivering another very expensive model to you. :D I contacted the WD-40 company and asked if it was safe to use on model railways. They said ask the model railway manufacturers because they didn't know.
I think that window cleaner also leaves a residue which is there to make your windows sparkle without streaks.
White vinegar is comprised of acetic acid (about 5-10%) and water (about 90-95%).
Australians use Methylated Spirit. The kind sold in Australia is not the same as sold in the UK. There's is a clear liquid while the kind sold in the UK has a blue dye in it, to stop people drinking it, and when it dries it will also leave a residue.
Amen! at last clarity!
I’ve been using meths for a few years now and it seems to do the trick. I have also tried the Wahls clipper oil by placing a few drops around the layout allowing the loco to spread it around. That also seemed to work.
Hi Simon, I bet track four made you crave fish and chips 😁😋😋 Best tip was the cardboard though, cheap and effective 😉👏👏👏 Looking forward to the running session 😍 Best regards from County Wicklow ☘
i rejuvenated a poor running Hornby 47 in 1977, I don’t use it anymore but kept it up with spots of WD40 it still runs, no obvious depreciation.
The guy from Australia recommended electrical contact cleaner. WD make such a cleaner which is different to the penetrating fluid version you put on your track.
INOX MX3 may effect some rubber products with continual long term use.
Hi Simon - I also saw the video from Fishplate films. You are correct insofar as he used WD40 contact cleaner (or Australian equivalent) rather than straight forward WD40. As an aside, love all your videos and your style, progress and expertise. Best wishes, Martin
The one common denominator here is, drying time. Whatever you use, if you can, let it dry for a couple of days. I have recently started doing this, and it seems to make a big difference.
British rails! Great advice for train enthusiasts! Thank you!
As others have mentioned here INOX is the best choice. Forget your isopropyl, forget your methylated spirits, definitely forget your track rubbers, and NEVER EVER use WD40 - all the wrong chemicals in that stuff. INOX = number 1. It's all about electrical conductivity.
My BigBoy had problems running on my track {2.4m x1.2}. I used the INOX Greg recommended and wow,away we go.HO Gauge.
i use n gauge kato track.i found brasso on fibre,which removes dirt far greater amounts than track cleaner or ipa, then polish off with a j cloth. no problem with engine performance.Sam,s trains was my reference for ipa but brasso just pulls the dirt off.My kato tgv's just fly round.
Well done Simon, I was going to say if we took the advice of everybody, our tracks wouldn't get cleaned, so use what you find works, I use car windscreen cleaning liquid, works for me.take care everybody .Mac
Hi Simon - saw that Australian guy's video - it seems everyone has their own favourite method. Personally I use woodland scenics tidy track and that see s to work for me. It could be the cleaning product used and its success is down to where the layout is housed. Everyone has different places for a layout and the humidity could vary and in turn affect the effectiveness of the product used. Just a thought. Cheers Euan
good point humidity must be a factor...even in the same place, 1 layout in the shed and 1 in the house would be different humidity levels...stick with what works for you 👍
Where does the dirt come from? Does dirt migrate from rails to wheels or vice versa and why? Which solutions are flammable? Which harms paint? Does the amount of water dilution or pH have any effect (e.g., alcohol and vinegar are acidic; window cleaner is basic)? There is more surface area on your train wheels than on the rails themselves, so don't forget to clean them, too.
model r/r is the best pastime during this virus crisis . we like malt vinegar on our fish n chips .
Excellent results.
Not seen the Fishplate Films video but I've always used IPA and mine is 99% alcohol and I've never had oxidisation. Cant stand the smell of vinegar or WD40 so I'll stick to the IPA. Good effort to try them out though and show us what happened. Cheers, John.
Greenhill Junction you need to watch that clip!
Don't know if anyone else has commented on this but Fishplate films used IPA that was only 70% pure. In NZ and Britain IPA is available as 99.9% pure and so does not have the moisture problem he encountered.
Hi Simon, enjoyed this video and also have seen the Fishplates video. Rather unusual way of presenting if you ask me. INOX is Australian and costs a fortune for very little if you get it posted over here otherwise not available in the UK. CRC is available but again pricey for so little. Either way having watched your video along with Fishplates has made me do my own research and that in itself was interesting. I think I will just stick with 99% Isopropyl unless I get any problems in the future or something better comes along. Again another interesting topic which I think we all love talking about.
Regards Chris
Try Pendle Slot Company, in Nelson, Lancs, they sell Inox mx3 for a tenner plus postage.
Have you tried Mentholated Spirits. I have found it excellent and it does not damage traction tyres, Cheers Greg
You used the wd40 .you need the Wd40 electronic contact cleaner.This is different to normal wd40 .i have used the wd40 contact cleaner and my track and trains are running better then it ever . thanks to fish plate. So do put any of that crap that you used on your track. You can get electronic contact cleaner from Screwfix or Halfords. so do that and you will not have any problems with running trains. And run your rolling stock over it when it wet it clean the wheels on all . Happy modelling 😀👍
Isopropynol or Isoporpyl Alcohol or IPA are all names for the same thing. The modern scientific name is propyn-2-ol. The "propyn" part of the name just means there are 3 carbon atoms (as opposed to regular ethanol, or as we often call it, "alcohol, which only has two). The "ynol" or "alcohol" part means it has an "-OH" radical attached. The "iso" part of the name just means the -OH part attaches to the middle carbon atom rather than one of the ends, as it would with propyn-1-ol.
Anyway, check the purity of your isoproponal. Generally it's either 60-70% pure, which is fine for killing coronavirus, but should be kept away from anything electrical, or 98%+, which should be perfectly fine for your tracks.
I'd have concerns about the amount of water in both vinegar and window cleaner, but as long as you dry the track thoroughly, I think they're unlikely to do any damage.
In my younger days I used to use "methylated spirits", also known as "denatured alcohol", which I believe is ethanol with methanol and other toxins added to stop stop people drinking it (ironically, the additives make it far more dangerous than selling pure ethanol). It seemed to do a good job back then.
All my locos have traction tyres what can i use
I use Ronson lighter fluid and it works very well.
wd 4o is a no four your tracks it put film on the track and give you running probloms with you track
After a lot of years in the hobby the best cleaner is water with a dash of detergent and meths applied with a wagon
equipted with an applicator system followed by a wiper pad arrangement made of kid leather as a wiper off. If your track
ever shows a grey residue your track is filthy. Totally clean track provides better electrical and climbing ability on grades and
wheels do not 'gum' up because there is no contaminants on 'clean' track. Logical really!
If you have been using oils and other such things for track cleaning a sparing application of kerosine will get your track prepared quicker for my method to be effective.
Here endith the lesson!
Interesting, lucky my main layout doesn’t have any track yet so cleaning is easy - trains don’t seem to run well though.
😄thats one solution!
Wd40 is oil might as well clean your track with Castrol
WD-40 doesn't have much oil in it. Not the standard WD-40 anyway. The UK (and EU) formulation is stated according to the REACH regulations:
60-80% hydrocarbons C9-C11 n-alkanes, iso-alkanes, cyclics
There's a difference between wd40 and wd40 contact cleaner
If track is oxidizing it's old track made from steel surely
I will give this a go.
we recently dug out our box of track. we dont have a fixed layout so had to spend long time with 1200 wet and dry to remove the oxidation. we where wondering if we dunked the whole lot in bucket of coke as we know what it does to a dirty old 2p.?
I just got a free train table that i want to clean up so i can run my trains.
Hi Simon, interesting to see this, your test was good but it might have been good to clean the loco wheels between each test. Track cleaning is no real mystery, IPA is designed to clean contact surfaces, is an approved switch contact cleaner and scientifically works. WD40 is designed to displace water, clean and lubricate, so if you apply that it will add grease to your rails and wheels which is exactly what you don't want, its also a hydrocarbon so will attack some plastics. I am aware of this other amusing video but while it's a lot of fun some aspects of it don't stack up in my opinion, proclaiming that the substance used is food safe while displaying a bottle of it clearly marked 'non food safe' I recently did a video on the very subject, if you have time maybe check it out and see if it meets with your findings? Happy modeling and stay safe. Mike.
Where can I buy cloudsback grounds
What fishplate films recommended was electronic contact cleaner in a spray can. I have to agree but it's expensive. I just use 91% IPA on a paper towel. Never use anything with oil in it such as WD40. If that stuff gets on your train wheels it will become a magnet for guck and crud.
I have always used it and it hasn’t oxidised my track yet
Yet
I use 99.7% IPA and not had any problems. I wouldn't use standard WD40 or the type of stuff Fishplate Films mentioned (not sure they are the same) as some of my locos do have traction tyres. WD40 Contact Cleaner is something I may try as it would also help with other electrical switches etc..
I watched the same video but thought he said it had to be silicone free which WD40 is not. I was going to get some contact cleaner to try. I would be interested in how they effect the points connectivity over time. However it seems to be running fine with the WD40 so now I'm confused.
just to confuse things even more, just checked the front of my can of wd40 and it says "silicone free"! Maybe they changed the formula?
@@SimonsShed Oh Ok thats fine then.
I was using Goo Gone for a long time. A number of folks were. Then people started complaining about the residue it leaves. The residue is a very fine oil. I had always wiped my tracks off, but the slight oil improved the performance of my locomotives around curves. Then I heard you should only use alcohol but isopropyl alcohol contains other chemicals which I am sure are deposited on the track as residue and I was cleaning the track with my track rubber to remove it. WD-40 is a water displacer but no doubt contains oils of some kind. Whale? If I have a particularly troublesome spot I still use Goo Gone. I just don't know. Have I ruined my track? Your corrugated paperboard is an abrasive, I suppose you know that. ;-D Rob
Its a whole can of worms isn't it! So many different opinions saying x is great or x will cause your layout to burst into flames 😀Thanks for watching 👍
WD-40 does not contain fish oil nor whale oil, contrary to a popular myth, nor does it contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).
It may take a year or more for the different to show up.
Interesting video Simon, and was that a sneaky look at the completed bridge?👍🙂
Could be 😀wondered if anyone would spot it!
@@SimonsShed looking good 👍🙂
Thank you for this - very interesting, but not sure if I am any wiser! I will carry on using IPA for now I think. 👍
I don't use anything but a peco track rubber, followed by a graphite block, which leaves a microscopic coating on top of the rail. Graphite makes a good electrical contact, it's the same graphite as used in pencils, but the graphite block is a lot harder than pencil lead. No way would I use WD 40
TRAM JUNCTION watch the Fishplate Films clip to show you why using a track eraser is a bad idea...
0 Gauge track cleaner i have no problem as running 00 in the garden. been out side for 30 years . regards Ron
Isopropyl is pronounce iso-pro-pol (or -pal depending on your accent). IPA is diluted with purified water. If you are using 50% IPA, then Fishplate films is quite correct with his assessment. If you are using 91% or lab-grade 99.5%, then the water content is negligible for the amount you are putting on your track. Couldn't quite tell from your video, but looks like you are using normal WD-40? I don't know about the Australian product Fishplate films was using, but CRC is electrical contact cleaner, its not the same as WD-40. If you use electrical contact cleaner, you need to wait until its completely dry before running trains to avoid problems. Glass cleaner will leave glass streak free but it tends to leave a bit of a residue on other surfaces, they also add a blue dye to the glass cleaner, so that will likely add a blue tinge to your ballast over time. There are some interesting articles floating around about micro-arcing between the train wheels and the track reacting with the chemical compound of the cleaner. There are some claims that IPA can cause an increase in these micro-arcs, which result in the gunk on your track. I personally clean the track with the CMX cleaner using 91% or higher IPA, usually a couple of passes then change the pads in the CMX. Next, I go over it with Goo Gone and then let it sit for about 20-30 minutes. Finally a quick pass with more IPA, this seems to work pretty well. Goo Gone does leave a bit of a residue on the track but pre-treating it with IPA and then a quick post-treatment with IPA seems to remove the residue completely.
Iso propyl alcohol and have never had a problem
WD40 is a lubricant
WD40 makes an ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER ,, WHICH IS NOT A LUBRICANT ,,
AND IT IT WORKS REALLY WELL
(1) Is wd-40 the best way to clean a track ?__________yes or no
(2) Have you try the blue eracers, to clean the tracts ?______yes or no
georgebox100 check out the Fishplate Fims clip, you will get your answer from an expert. (No and no)
I suspect that if you had done a control sample and simply rubbed over a but if clean cardboard the results would have been the same 😀
Interesting if nothing else! 🤔😎
Cheers, thanks for watching!
Ive used a pencil eraser which works well
If you use 99. 99% IPA (also call iso-propanol, 2-propanol or propan-ol, then you should have no problem.... this is the pure alcohol without any water. Can be obtained as 1 or 2. 5L bottles from, for example, Amazon.
I got a deal on track magic system thats what i use currently
Are you sponsoring Sainsbury’s or is Sainsbury’s sponsoring you with there window and glass cleaner. by any chance.
no but I'd love a sponsorship deal with Sainsbury's 😀💰
99.9% pure IPA does not contain water.
Not sure, just going on what Fishplate Films said, I think there are different levels of purity.
@@SimonsShed There are. the stuff sold for antiviral use such as wipes and sprays tends to be about 70% so it doesn't evaporate too fast but is strong enough to do the job of killing virus. I have the 99.9 because I make my own acrylic paint thinner and airbrush cleaner.
@@SimonsShed Dave is right. IPA is just diluted with purified water. The percentage reflects the alcohol content. So 99.9% is pretty much pure IPA, 99.5% has 0.5% water, 91% has 9% water, while 70% is 30% water and so on. For model railway purposes, 91% or higher is going to be fine.
just to add .IPA has to be99%, bought off amazon,found two independent sources for cleaning rolling stoc kand loco wheels.works a treat,quick, and easy .under power, push loco on j cloth soaked in the stuff.takes seconds only.
Does anyone know the long term effect any of these things has on the plastic the sleepers / chairs are made of? Is it significant given the lifespan of an average layout?
I have used Inox for about 40 years. No problem with plastic sleepers.
How often would you suggest cleaning the track?
If everything is running smoothly I'd leave it, I only clean the track it the locos are stopping / stuttering.
@@SimonsShed I only have 2 locos at the moment. A Dapol Class 33 which I brought brand new. The other being a Dapol Class 04 second hand from ebay. The 33 runs perfect at both slow and fast speed, Where as the 04 runs ok with throttle wide open but keeps stopping at slow speeds no good for shunting. I think the 04 being second hand maybe needs a clean/service but unsure how to do that.
Electrical contact cleaners do not work especially on Steam type locos their wheels just spin with poor headway 100% IPA is the ONLY cleaner that actuially works
I have used Isopropyl Alcohol for years and have never had any adverse effects. 'Fishplate' says in his video, IPA is 75% the rest presumably is water, is that in Australia? In the uk you can buy Isopropyl Alcohol at 99.9% so its not really an issue in this country, its pure.
I used WD 40 before changing to Inox (about 40 years ago) to clean my track. WD40 does not last very long as eventually it dries and does not leave a proctive layer of oil on the rail or wheels. Your expriemental method is flawed in that you did not clean the locomotive wheels between tracks, so some WD40 would have spread to each seperate track, hence the inconclusive results. Do what Greg from Fishplates does, and you will get reliable running with minimum effort.
Hi Simon, you could try WD40 contact cleaner... I have used IPA so far and it works well. EDIT: Sorry you mention WD40 contact cleaner.
Is your track brass or ns?
Yup....watched a ton of videos on track cleaning .....and still non the wiser as to what is best. LOL!
You and me both!
most things contain water so this discussion is a nono...
WD40 is no good because it leaves a protective film.. Have a look at the question that I asked Greg in his comments about a UK equivalent..
You basically want a cleaner that's used for electronics & circuit boards...
Stu D'Nutz could you please copy and paste his reply here? It would save having to try and find your comment on his video. I would like to know, as the nearest I got was a supplier who would ship from Aus at a crazy price.
I ended up getting some INNOX to try (the same stuff Greg uses) from here : www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=innox
@@struck2soon Sorry I didn't see this comment.. Unfortunately I can't seem to copy anything from the comments, maybe because it's on my mobile, but he basically said to use CRC 2-26 but don't use contact cleaners..
@@SimonsShed Oh nice Simon, do let us know how you get on with it.. Although I'd like to know how long 125ml would last at a tenner a pop! I can't help but wonder if something from somewhere like RS Components may be better value for money?!? But good find anyhow, I couldn't find any in the UK when I did a search...
Simons Shed cheers!
Isopropanol does not contain water.
google.com/search?q=does+isopropyl+alcohol+contain+water
dont put any of that on the track its a pola fluid use 3 in 1 or car electrical cleaner
Ipa is fine I use it myself but it will only oxidize if you have steel track ,most people like your self have nickel silver track which doesn't oxidize, wd40 will leave a oil coating ,stick with the IPA mate
i still think IPA works great for cleaning the tracks. just have to wipe it on, wipe it off.
Use a cloth not card. More effective. 👍
wd 40 BIG NO NO. DUST COLLECTOR.
WD 40 original is not that great for model rail track. WD40 contact cleaner is fine. As is Inox, arguably better than WD 40 contact cleaner.. Even automatic transmission fluid works well. We have to think of a loco on a track as a completion of a circuit. Track does not have to be super clean to maintain good contact. What people should never use however, are stupid track rubbers. I'm surprised Peco hasn't woken up to what damage they do.
use 99 percent iso alcohol.
I use track magic
I caught a draught with that; it comes with a 'sponge' applicator; over time the cleaning compound attacks the applicator and turns it into a sort of green slime.
I use a track rubber!
Clean the wheels
join the dead rail society and never ever clean your track
Contains water and oxidises the track , crazy Australian guy , as if the water will oxidise the track . Yes if bathed in it and left for days . Evaporation a thing the Australian guy never thought of and the fact that you could dry it off . The reason nickel plating is used now a days . Isopropyl alcohol perfectly ok . He was pushing some other thing like WD40 . Think it was just crap , save the wd40 for more sensible use.