VERY VERY IMPORTANT to tell everyone that the first step is for the engine to be at working temperature before attempting to remove the injectors. Some folks might skip your complete video before attempting removal!! Great detail and I love your videos.
Some people advise to let the car sit long enough for the fuel rail to lose pressure so the engine will cool. Be careful when you disconnect the fuel feed to the injector if the engine is hot and wear protective glasses.
Just a quick tip. I had an injector stuck so bad , I just decided to take off the keeper clip off . I drove the car 5-10 miles to get it hot . It sounded like a train driving with the blow by of the injector, but It came out like butter when I brought the car back for removal . Not the best way to do it but It worked great !
@@gnormanhayes I agree. The dirt will be between the needle and the nozzle so you are going to have to remove them both and the clean with brake fluid or an ultrasonic cleaner.
Lapping trade tip - use a figure 8 pattern rather than a single circular motion. This will balance out the natural favouring of pressure on one side to a balanced all round surface lap.
Hi @MBDieselFreak, thank you for very informative video, I have an OM647 5cylinder 2.7 cdi with injectors banging like crazy, it has done 480k kilometers. I found new nozzles for them, bought the new copper shims, new clamps and new bolts. I'm going to give it a try at rebuild. Wish me luck hehe
They do this for $450 in Turkey. I watched this video and did it myself. I didn't spend anything except the 10$ I paid for the ultrasonic cleaner. Thanks a lot.
Nice video, thank for doing an share it. Only few things are bit confusing for me: - why you didnt just replace the nozzles with new ones? There are sets for sales with about 50-80e(have no idea in GBP currency) per one, and then for about 1.5-3e/pcs you get the O-rings and the copper shim at the end are something as 3-6e/set of 4(or at least for my car with 4cyl and BOSCH injectors they cost that). Then you give it to some bench test to se how the flow is. (you mention some bosch service place) - ultrasonic bath : For petrol injector with 3-3.5bar rail pressure, "huge" 2-4 holes and no pressure at all against the nozzle , maybe there is some logic to use ultrasonic cleaning. Diesel, from other hand with pressure inside the fuel system of 300-1800bars, microscopic holes for fuel dispersing and inside cylinder working , do you think that ultrasonic cleaning will make some differences? I`ve seen that before and still have no logical explanation for it.. From other hand, if the nozzle holes get clogged and /or the needle get worn then the injector work bad, and again the nozzle replacement with new one will fix the issue. - the surface you clean with sand paper are grinded with proper machine, stone disk and they are with exact angle. How you can be sure that you make proper 90° compared to the inner center axis? Also, both parts are tight together, so how there must be some debris, damaged surfaces and so on.. Sorry, I work as metal and CNC engineer and cars are may hobby, but that are some confusing advises for me I see here.. Also, I presume the tightening torque for the nozzle cap is 70-75Nm. At least for similar Bosch looking and size is same. And need to be mentioned that is fine thread so need to be sure nothing is over it when fit on place. dieselcatalog.online/en/bosch/04451/0445110320.html - that is for my car`s injector but maybe can be helpful for others to find their spare parts. At least so far I found the nozzles and the o-rings, what I`ll like to replace.
Nice video. I like your style! Nitpicks: during injector installation I like to finger tighten the fuel line back on prior to bolting down the injector. This gets the injector clocked correctly and prevents straining the fuel line. I also counter-hold the injector’s fitting with a second wrench; not always necessary but I don’t like to push my luck.
If you are lapping or honing you always use a figure of 8 movement, also it could be a good idea to attach a 90⁰ block to the injector body to keep the lapped area perpendicular to the body...
i want to change the nozzles on 4 om611 injectors to c30amg nozzles, do you think i should mess with any of this like cleaning or lapping? the injectors are running good until now.
Nice video. I would call it “diesel injector heart surgery”. You did not comment on the need to change the little o-ring on the return line connector. Also having a tweezer would help working with gloves on. Very informative.
You did very good yob but there is one thing that is interesting. Yous sad to not remove needle from nozzle to avoid anything to get in there also you did sanding on that nozzle and put it on the angle in sonic cleaning process. As nozzle is on the angle there is possibility of dust, debree and tiny metal pieces to remain between needle and nozzle body. Is it better to remove needle and set everyhing in sonic process with nozzle body (directed up) and needle to remove all dirt and debree?? Overall thanks a lot on video!
I think that removing the needle from nozzle can help with removing some contaminations and chips from the inside of the nozzle. We can also inspect with loupe the needle to see any scratches on it. Of course we have to keep it extremely clean.
Vw audi Cr 2.0tdi, My fuel rail pressure drops to zero very quickly after switching engine off, is that normal? I have p0132 code and leaky injector is my suspicion.
As most injectors these days are coded to the ECU, wont your re-surfacing mess up the calibration? Most other videos I have seen all say the spacers and washers are adjusted to get the injector to a certain operating spec.
@@MBDieselFreak 1st I've heard that claimed. Why would you need a 30 digit code to tell an ECU the characteristics of a solenoid? There are very few parameters.
I have a 2005 E320 CDI with 120K miles on it. Because I like this car so much, I am considering replacing all 6 injectors as a preventative maintenance. I have a couple of questions I hope you can give some advice on: 1) would you advise doing this as preventative maintenance? If I use om648 injectors (as opposed to om647), do I have to do any re-coding (I don't have a STAR). If I used the om647 injectors, does it require recoding with STAR? Thanks in advance!
I have a 2005 Cdi with 9500 original miles. There is a bit of what appears to be fuel on the foam around the injector closest to the firewall. Should I suspect the oring at the top of injector. These have never been touched Thanks I have only ever replaced the brake fluid and a few oil changes. And both batteries. Going to do fuel filter and coolant change shortly. Anything else for preventive service?
That's not a crowfoot wrench... that is a line wrench... A Crowfoot wrench is just the very end of a line wrench with a square hole in it for a 3/8" extension.
as far as i know, if you keep the inj order from 1-4 or 1-6 or so, you won't have to reprogram them. they are already programed to work in their specific order. for expample: remove inj 1 - put it back ONLY in it's socket. 2 back in and so on. cheer!
Have you got ANY tips removing the injector bolts that SNAP of below the head line... 3 bolts just sheard on me and now renders the van useless. I have about 5cm of thread left in the head and no purchase on the thread. What is the best way to remove the old snapped bolt on this occasion. I would guess, 6mm diameter copper pipe used for a brakeline. Cut to length of what ever gap is left from bolt to flush of head. Insert the copper pipe into the broke hole bolt. Weld what ever you can INSIDE the copper pipe stacking the weld pool. The weld at the very top an fallen key or screwdriver (sacrifice tool). Then use the welded heat to remove the bolt.??!!
Please assist with suggestions; had to replace the cracked nozzle cover for W203 CDI now it looks like we have damaged the threads where you screw back the injector holder. thank you in advance .
Very interesting ? your the only person saying they have a leak between the nozzles and the body . How does this factory machine surface wear ? Why is the high pressure fuel not lifting the needle off the nozzle seat to spray fuel into the engine as it is designed to . It only has to overcome the force of the small spring at the base of the needle . The needle is safe to remove from the noozle to clean .
I’m a bit lost here. You say you won’t put the nozzle on the sonic cleaner all the way so you don’t get dirt stuck in. But you’ve just sanded the nozzle and body. So that’s sand and metal all over the nozzle and body in the parts you say not to get anything in.
Hi Ross! Do you happen to know if switching over to the C30 AMG injector nozzles is enough to get more fuel into my cylinders or if there are any other significant differences between the OM646/7/8 injector and the C30 AMG one? I'm trying to get a little bit of extra power out of my W211 E270 CDI (without making it roll coal of course, I hate seeing cars smoke on public roads) and the nozzles would be significantly easier to find (and cheaper) than 5 whole injectors.
@@MBDieselFreak Hmm, okay, I don't really have a Bosch parts specialist available, but I guess I could "liberate" a copy of their ESI[tronic] software. Currently the closest thing I have to confirmation that it'd likely work, is the fact that some guy here in Estonia wrote a research paper on remapping the OM613 for ~280 hp to graduate from a technical college and in his research, he says that according to ESI[tronic] the internals of the OM613 injector from his W210 don't differ from the OM612.990 injectors in anything but the nozzle. I guess I'll order myself a set of DLLA 156 P 1265 nozzles for Christmas and see what happens :P
@@rafacbr9 Yes, I already know the part code :) I did, however, find out that the injectors need to be re-shimmed so they'd work properly at idle and max pressure. Since that means I'll have to essentially get them professionally rebuilt which costs 5x more than just the nozzles, I'll do it next year, rather than right now.
@@sookoll23 The injectors are different internally. C30 AMG uses and older style injector (code 0 445 110 152). They run on 1350-1400 bar maximum pressure. Your W211 most likely uses "0 445 110 156" which is a newer injector. They run on around 1600 bar maximum pressure.
What you think my friend ! I have a c270 and im already put on a bigger high pressure pump and turbo. Im planing to change my injectors nozzle to the c30 AMG-s . Can it work ? I seen the whole injectors got chenged but what you think about just the nozzle?
28,000 PSI SHOULD blow out whatever kind of blockage in the injectors lol. Only way to tell if they're plugged is to have them sprayed on a test stand by a professional shop.
Awesome video, thanks for posting it up! Will be tackling this project in 2 weeks or so, whenever the new nozzles come in. What is your choice for a solution in the ultrasonic basin? I know you said in the video diesel works great, but do you have a preference in any industrial cleaners/degreasers?
Something oil based. I prefer diesel since the leftover diesel is designed to be run in the fuel system, and being that it's a lubricant, it helps in lapping
amd after rebuild the spray pattern is little bit different and the injectors need to go onto a test stand, to create the new injector codes, for programming your injection control module. Otherwise they won't work perfectly
Is the spray pattern not entirely dependent on the nozzle though? Also, my local Diesel specialty shop said that the IMA codes are tied to the SOLENOID itself because of the variances in magnetic flux between solenoids. That's why the IMA code is molded into the solenoid cap. where did you get the information that the IMA code needs to be changed if the nozzle is changed?
@@MBDieselFreak sorry for the late reply. At least on any refurbished injector we ever recieved to be installed there IMA codes with it and I'd guess for a reason. As Ford is kinda weird how they number their cylinders depending on what you're currently doing with the engine. Either in their firing order or from the transmission. It happened that the codes were mixed up and you could definetly tell by the way the engine than ran that you've mixed up the codes. I didn't say they don't work but if you know the difference than you can certainly tell. Yes there are universal codes that you can find but why mess with that if everbody can get a proper code for 20 bucks or so.
I liked the videoz Found it useful HOWEVER There’s something bothering me! When you start rubbing the nozzle on the sandpaper wouldn’t it get filled up with small dust particles from the grains that come off the paper? 🤔
That's why it's important to put the nozzle and injector body BACK into the ultrasonic after lapping to get all the aluminum oxide and iron particles off of it. ;)
MBDieselFreak wouldn’t that still leave some particles in the needle area? Otherwise, why not just take the needle out and then at the end ultrasonic clean all of it?
Hi there! I have an OM642 and I tried to remove one of the injectors and somehow I managed to break the return line of a nearby injector. It didn't fall, but it's bent and I'm afraid I messed up very bad and I need a new injector. Any chance of changing that top part? Also, are you buying new nozzles for the injectors or just cleaning them? Thanks a bunch:)
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Great video, when you clean the nozzle and body could this temporary fix my leaky injectors because you are removing material from the nozzle and body of the injector .
Can you give me a suggestion? I posted this on a forum but no advice yet: I am not knoledgeable enought and sorry to call it misfire for a diesel. it is actually like a hiccup and it feels/sounds like an explosion. Thought it has something to do with the combustion. Dealer wanted to change 3 injectors for bad values but not specific codes quoting me at $2800 before tax. Other mechanics recommendations were injectors as well. Therefore I had my Indy changing some of the injectors today with no change. As short history car has 166k miles and this started at about 164k miles shortly after and around or at about the time of adding freezing additive for diesel fuel while a tank fill up which could be just coincidence. Egr code has been on and off rarely every now and then for the past year...about 35k miles. Lp fuel pump in tank replaced at about 145-150k miles. Shortly after at about 155k miles fuel filter changed. No start up problems, no smoke like when bad injectors. No hiccups for the first 5-10 min when cold. Then thy start randomly intensifying in frequency with the warmer the engine gets, but also sound/feel of the hiccups/explosion/detonation intensify itself as well. The fee is more like a skip of something like a big heavy chain from a gear to another. It also sounds/feel like a gun intermittently shooting one round then within a second 2-3 rounds then one more or 2 seconds another 2-3 rounds. It gets overrided when accelerating and the feel/sound of the hiccup/explosion/detonation reduces with higher RPM to the point of when reaching anything above 1500 it seems like it’s goes away or it is not there anymore. Could it be the High Pressure pump? Could it be my EGR stuck closed/opened influencing the intake with high temp exhaust gases recirculating since it starts to be more pronounced warming up and it is never there at cold start? Please let me know if anyone experienced anything similar or what else you guys may think of.
Hey I know this is about a year old, but I put all 6 injectors new into my 2005 e320 cdi. And I was wondering if I needed to do anything to the injectors. I have a mb dealership about 45 mins from me. But as anyone I avoid going their because I feel taken advantage of when I do. And I also have found anything online saying that there is anything else I need to do. I replaced the copper washer and retaining bolt. Also I put on a new fuel filter. But do I need to ge the injectors matched to the ecm.?
Thanks for the video! I love the om648, my absolute favorite engine. I rebuilt the injectors in my old 7.3 and it was a breeze. It's ashame these can't be totally rebuilt DIY but I get it. Mine are fine now but I know the day will come when I have to do this or slap on some rebuilds. I had a 06 e320 cdi with 425k on it before some bimbo pulled out in front of the wife and totaled it. We replaced it with an 05 of the same make and model and it currently has over 300k. I know it won't be long now. These engines are tanks. Love the pre DPF engines. Thanks again, very helpful. Btw, did the lapping seal it up this time or did you have more problems? Hope it went good. Chris
lapping did seem to fix the issue! i still have yet to re-lap all the other injectors though, they're all leaking very slowly. which i dont really mind to be honest as it keeps the injector bore clean haha.
Thank you for the video, very much appreciate the videos. What would be really nice is to be able to increase the flow rate of the injectors. I already have some C30CDI injectors but would like to check the flow rate. Any thoughts on how we could do that in a DIY fashion? Flow rate is something that would be great to check even with stockers. Also I like the brass return line fittings, so much nicer than the stock plastic ones. I replaced mine a long time ago.
There's no way to check the flow rate outside of the car without specialised equipment. It requires a computer to fire the injectors and 24,000 psi of fuel pressure to work up to max load pressure. I don't trust any type of containment device to hold back 24,000 psi of Diesel sprayed out of a jet.
thank you sir for the video, i currently have an issue with my C270 CDI (OM612 engine). the car cuts off the engine upon hard acceleration, i have replaced the high pressure fuel pump and had the injectors "refurbished" from an injector service center but i still have not come right as yet. the car now cranks but doesn't start. Can you assist as to what the problem might be?
The pressure control valve on the back of the rail might also be culprit. That needs to make a perfect seal in order for the pump to build pressure, and if the large oring inside is bad, it will leak excessively back to the return
there is an engine check light but it's for something else. i will take the car to a different mechanic so he can scan the codes for me, because the current mechanic has an older scanning tool @@MBDieselFreak
Awesome video!! I just had a question though, about how the vinal tubing is there to protect debree, dirt of liquids getting into the injector. This is at 8:10 If a small amount of debree or dust actually got through that hole, would this be catastrophic? Can the injector be cleaned out/repair??
If it doesn't destroy the injector within a few thousand miles, it will absolutely shorten it's life. Contamination is the #1 cause of injector failure.
@@MBDieselFreak Hi boss... Thanks for your great video. I need your advice as my injectors seemed to be blocked by Adblue crystals. I wrongly placed Adblue in diesel tank. The car ran for a few minutes then struggles to keep running. Can we clean the injectors ( of Adblue crystals)?
Everywhere on forums I see that om613 came with solenoid injectors and om648 came with piezo injectors, but I haven't been able to find a definitive answer whether 648 injectors are actually piezo. The injector internals are absolutely identical from om611 612 613 and om646 647 648. MBDieselFreak do you know or anyone know for sure?
@@diypro9084 i dont believe so. the 613 had different power figures and most likely a different spray angle, so no i dont think the 613 injectors are interchangeable with the 646/647/648
actually i would not recommend doing the lapping cause by hand will never be as "clean" as you need it ... imagine 2000 bars of presure moving through the injector ...
I just did the hand lapping ...start from grit 1.5k up to 5k works fine for me. All you have to do is be careful and think what you doing. And yes machine lapping would be probably safer ....if you have one. ;)
i get too much leak by so i buy a refurbished set, they last a year if im lucky then to much leak by again. it would be nice to have one of these injectors last long enough to consider new nozzles . other diesels knock out hundreds of thousands of miles without being touched. yet these injectors have the lifespan of a spark plug. edit. no. thats being mean to spark plugs
Every single diesel injection shop laps components when rebuilding, its a requirement to get a good seal between steel surfaces. The tolerance between the nozzle and plunger are too small to let lapping contaminants in. As long as the contaminants are removed after lapping, it's not a problem. 5 years later and the same injectors are still working perfectly.
@@MBDieselFreak I'm sure about that. And it's a great job what you have done. But if you pay attention when dismantling the injector and take out even the needle from the nozzle, would be a better job. Simple
@massimilianocampana3951 the more I've talked to diesel techs, the more I agree with that. A ton of rebuilders remove the nozzle plunger and have no issues as long as everything is cleaned before reassembly. It was just a myth that removing the plunger = bad juju.
You realize that lapping precision mating surfaces requires an abrasive? And that introduces particulate? I was careful to clean off everything post lapping. 5 years later and the injectors are still working perfectly.
VERY VERY IMPORTANT to tell everyone that the first step is for the engine to be at working temperature before attempting to remove the injectors. Some folks might skip your complete video before attempting removal!! Great detail and I love your videos.
I did mention that before pulling the injector, but it is an important point! Pinning for everyone to see!
Why?
Yes Why?
@@TECHNOCHAD So you burn yourself when trying to remove them. Aluminium head expands to ease removal.
Some people advise to let the car sit long enough for the fuel rail to lose pressure so the engine will cool.
Be careful when you disconnect the fuel feed to the injector if the engine is hot and wear protective glasses.
Just a quick tip. I had an injector stuck so bad , I just decided to take off the keeper clip off . I drove the car 5-10 miles to get it hot . It sounded like a train driving with the blow by of the injector, but It came out like butter when I brought the car back for removal . Not the best way to do it but It worked great !
You are the only video instructor that says not to remove the needle from the nozzle. All other videos show the needle being removed and cleaned.
You're not going to remove the needle and then you're going to use sandpaper next to it and not remove it and clean it that seems crazy to me
@@gnormanhayes I agree. The dirt will be between the needle and the nozzle so you are going to have to remove them both and the clean with brake fluid or an ultrasonic cleaner.
Lapping trade tip - use a figure 8 pattern rather than a single circular motion. This will balance out the natural favouring of pressure on one side to a balanced all round surface lap.
Yes thats how you polish optic fiber ends too
Hi @MBDieselFreak, thank you for very informative video, I have an OM647 5cylinder 2.7 cdi with injectors banging like crazy, it has done 480k kilometers. I found new nozzles for them, bought the new copper shims, new clamps and new bolts. I'm going to give it a try at rebuild. Wish me luck hehe
They do this for $450 in Turkey. I watched this video and did it myself. I didn't spend anything except the 10$ I paid for the ultrasonic cleaner. Thanks a lot.
Nice video, thank for doing an share it. Only few things are bit confusing for me:
- why you didnt just replace the nozzles with new ones? There are sets for sales with about 50-80e(have no idea in GBP currency) per one, and then for about 1.5-3e/pcs you get the O-rings and the copper shim at the end are something as 3-6e/set of 4(or at least for my car with 4cyl and BOSCH injectors they cost that). Then you give it to some bench test to se how the flow is. (you mention some bosch service place)
- ultrasonic bath : For petrol injector with 3-3.5bar rail pressure, "huge" 2-4 holes and no pressure at all against the nozzle , maybe there is some logic to use ultrasonic cleaning. Diesel, from other hand with pressure inside the fuel system of 300-1800bars, microscopic holes for fuel dispersing and inside cylinder working , do you think that ultrasonic cleaning will make some differences? I`ve seen that before and still have no logical explanation for it.. From other hand, if the nozzle holes get clogged and /or the needle get worn then the injector work bad, and again the nozzle replacement with new one will fix the issue.
- the surface you clean with sand paper are grinded with proper machine, stone disk and they are with exact angle. How you can be sure that you make proper 90° compared to the inner center axis? Also, both parts are tight together, so how there must be some debris, damaged surfaces and so on..
Sorry, I work as metal and CNC engineer and cars are may hobby, but that are some confusing advises for me I see here..
Also, I presume the tightening torque for the nozzle cap is 70-75Nm. At least for similar Bosch looking and size is same. And need to be mentioned that is fine thread so need to be sure nothing is over it when fit on place.
dieselcatalog.online/en/bosch/04451/0445110320.html - that is for my car`s injector but maybe can be helpful for others to find their spare parts. At least so far I found the nozzles and the o-rings, what I`ll like to replace.
Nice video. I like your style!
Nitpicks: during injector installation I like to finger tighten the fuel line back on prior to bolting down the injector. This gets the injector clocked correctly and prevents straining the fuel line. I also counter-hold the injector’s fitting with a second wrench; not always necessary but I don’t like to push my luck.
nautamaran, You made some good points there.
Super video, on Injector removal & rebuild. I will keep checking this over & over !!
When you did the lapping how do you know you didn't introduce contaminants into the needle?
Don't forget to install the copper ring at the bottom of the injector.
If you are lapping or honing you always use a figure of 8 movement, also it could be a good idea to attach a 90⁰ block to the injector body to keep the lapped area perpendicular to the body...
If you set the injector in a block you cab control it better when lapping ,this will keep it upright and level
I taught that this was simple, but its way to much small risky parts that i need to care about, Bosch Diesel specialist will be my friend right there
The bolt holding the injector clamp down is a stretch bolt and should be replaced after removal.
Thank you for video on Ultrasonic cleaning of injectors !!
i want to change the nozzles on 4 om611 injectors to c30amg nozzles, do you think i should mess with any of this like cleaning or lapping? the injectors are running good until now.
Nice video. I would call it “diesel injector heart surgery”. You did not comment on the need to change the little o-ring on the return line connector. Also having a tweezer would help working with gloves on. Very informative.
Can a high return flow be caused by faulty injector nozzles?
Good job and excellent mechanic 👍
You did very good yob but there is one thing that is interesting. Yous sad to not remove needle from nozzle to avoid anything to get in there also you did sanding on that nozzle and put it on the angle in sonic cleaning process. As nozzle is on the angle there is possibility of dust, debree and tiny metal pieces to remain between needle and nozzle body. Is it better to remove needle and set everyhing in sonic process with nozzle body (directed up) and needle to remove all dirt and debree?? Overall thanks a lot on video!
Thanks for writing the comment I came here to write. :)
I think that removing the needle from nozzle can help with removing some contaminations and chips from the inside of the nozzle. We can also inspect with loupe the needle to see any scratches on it. Of course we have to keep it extremely clean.
Very helpful video! Cheers
What you think can be done if ISA test failed when testing the injectors on the machine? Tnx
are the om642s rebuildable? they seem very similar for all intents and purposes, could you include link for rebuild kit?
I have the same problem. Where exactly is the number 4 fuel injector if you are looking at the engine from the front of the car?
Vw audi Cr 2.0tdi, My fuel rail pressure drops to zero very quickly after switching engine off, is that normal? I have p0132 code and leaky injector is my suspicion.
As most injectors these days are coded to the ECU, wont your re-surfacing mess up the calibration? Most other videos I have seen all say the spacers and washers are adjusted to get the injector to a certain operating spec.
@fredflintstone2077 the coding has to do with electrical performance differences between injector solenoid coils, not the injector mechanicals.
@@MBDieselFreak 1st I've heard that claimed. Why would you need a 30 digit code to tell an ECU the characteristics of a solenoid? There are very few parameters.
I have a 2005 E320 CDI with 120K miles on it. Because I like this car so much, I am considering replacing all 6 injectors as a preventative maintenance. I have a couple of questions I hope you can give some advice on: 1) would you advise doing this as preventative maintenance? If I use om648 injectors (as opposed to om647), do I have to do any re-coding (I don't have a STAR). If I used the om647 injectors, does it require recoding with STAR? Thanks in advance!
its not a must they will work but if you have star code them
i have s320 cdi w220 with 300 k miles on it and still pulls strong only i have 270 hp map on it and its just running perfect
I have a 2005 Cdi with 9500 original miles. There is a bit of what appears to be fuel on the foam around the injector closest to the firewall. Should I suspect the oring at the top of injector. These have never been touched
Thanks
I have only ever replaced the brake fluid and a few oil changes.
And both batteries.
Going to do fuel filter and coolant change shortly.
Anything else for preventive service?
Nice video. Where can I purchase the nozzle.
That's not a crowfoot wrench... that is a line wrench... A Crowfoot wrench is just the very end of a line wrench with a square hole in it for a 3/8" extension.
Learn something new every day
Where can I go to learn to rebuild these injectors
Do you have to reprogram the injectors after
as far as i know, if you keep the inj order from 1-4 or 1-6 or so, you won't have to reprogram them. they are already programed to work in their specific order. for expample: remove inj 1 - put it back ONLY in it's socket. 2 back in and so on.
cheer!
Have you got ANY tips removing the injector bolts that SNAP of below the head line... 3 bolts just sheard on me and now renders the van useless. I have about 5cm of thread left in the head and no purchase on the thread. What is the best way to remove the old snapped bolt on this occasion. I would guess, 6mm diameter copper pipe used for a brakeline. Cut to length of what ever gap is left from bolt to flush of head. Insert the copper pipe into the broke hole bolt. Weld what ever you can INSIDE the copper pipe stacking the weld pool. The weld at the very top an fallen key or screwdriver (sacrifice tool). Then use the welded heat to remove the bolt.??!!
Please assist with suggestions; had to replace the cracked nozzle cover for W203 CDI now it looks like we have damaged the threads where you screw back the injector holder. thank you in advance .
Replace the whole injector. I'd suggest replacing with an om647 injector as they are cheaper.
I don't have that 11:39 little shim on my Chevrolet multijet 1.3 injector, everything else is dead same, did I loose mine?
Or is it different??
Very interesting ? your the only person saying they have a leak between the nozzles and the body . How does this factory machine surface wear ? Why is the high pressure fuel not lifting the needle off the nozzle seat to spray fuel into the engine as it is designed to . It only has to overcome the force of the small spring at the base of the needle . The needle is safe to remove from the noozle to clean .
Spot on.
Have you ever come up with a way to do lubra moly diesel flush on an om648 common rail??? thx
Did the injector leak and puddle on the cam cover around the injector?
Exactily. The leak is completely stopped after re lapping the nozzle and body
Do you have any idea if the OM611 injector nozzles are smaller in spray pattern holes compared to ones from OM648?
Thanks a lot!
I would never get sandpaper anywhere near my injectors
OK, but this isn't really sand paper. 1000 grit wet paper isn't going to make any trouble at least.
Got a injector test bench
I’m a bit lost here. You say you won’t put the nozzle on the sonic cleaner all the way so you don’t get dirt stuck in. But you’ve just sanded the nozzle and body. So that’s sand and metal all over the nozzle and body in the parts you say not to get anything in.
hi does these need reprogramming sometimes? tia
Very good video thanks
Regarding the part number for the injectors. If I have a cdi 2-20 injector where can I find that part number
Maybe your cofie filters are doing some obstructions in ultrasonic cleaning
Hi what cleaning fluid do you use please
What do you use when putting the injectors back together? Diesel or assembly oil?
ceramic grease it will prevent to stuck them in the future removal
Hi Ross!
Do you happen to know if switching over to the C30 AMG injector nozzles is enough to get more fuel into my cylinders or if there are any other significant differences between the OM646/7/8 injector and the C30 AMG one?
I'm trying to get a little bit of extra power out of my W211 E270 CDI (without making it roll coal of course, I hate seeing cars smoke on public roads) and the nozzles would be significantly easier to find (and cheaper) than 5 whole injectors.
I'm really not sure, that would be a question for a bosch parts specialist
@@MBDieselFreak Hmm, okay, I don't really have a Bosch parts specialist available, but I guess I could "liberate" a copy of their ESI[tronic] software. Currently the closest thing I have to confirmation that it'd likely work, is the fact that some guy here in Estonia wrote a research paper on remapping the OM613 for ~280 hp to graduate from a technical college and in his research, he says that according to ESI[tronic] the internals of the OM613 injector from his W210 don't differ from the OM612.990 injectors in anything but the nozzle.
I guess I'll order myself a set of DLLA 156 P 1265 nozzles for Christmas and see what happens :P
The nozzles of my car (C30-AMG) are 0433171798. You can try to swap it and tell us :-)
@@rafacbr9 Yes, I already know the part code :) I did, however, find out that the injectors need to be re-shimmed so they'd work properly at idle and max pressure. Since that means I'll have to essentially get them professionally rebuilt which costs 5x more than just the nozzles, I'll do it next year, rather than right now.
@@sookoll23 The injectors are different internally. C30 AMG uses and older style injector (code 0 445 110 152). They run on 1350-1400 bar maximum pressure.
Your W211 most likely uses "0 445 110 156" which is a newer injector. They run on around 1600 bar maximum pressure.
Iv seen that some guys have a cutting tool they use on the head before reseating the injector.
What you think my friend ! I have a c270 and im already put on a bigger high pressure pump and turbo. Im planing to change my injectors nozzle to the c30 AMG-s . Can it work ? I seen the whole injectors got chenged but what you think about just the nozzle?
This is an excellent and very educational video, i have a question which is "what if some of the micro wholes in the nozzle are blocked?"
28,000 PSI SHOULD blow out whatever kind of blockage in the injectors lol. Only way to tell if they're plugged is to have them sprayed on a test stand by a professional shop.
@@MBDieselFreak Brake cleaner aerosol does the job pretty well to both clear the holes and show if the spray pattern is uniform
Removing the common rail tubing with a LINE WRENCH, its is not a crows foot.
Nice video plzz sir more assembled video injectors
Sifitronic does work
Awesome video, thanks for posting it up! Will be tackling this project in 2 weeks or so, whenever the new nozzles come in. What is your choice for a solution in the ultrasonic basin? I know you said in the video diesel works great, but do you have a preference in any industrial cleaners/degreasers?
Something oil based. I prefer diesel since the leftover diesel is designed to be run in the fuel system, and being that it's a lubricant, it helps in lapping
@@MBDieselFreak appreciate the quick reply, thanks!
amd after rebuild the spray pattern is little bit different and the injectors need to go onto a test stand, to create the new injector codes, for programming your injection control module. Otherwise they won't work perfectly
Is the spray pattern not entirely dependent on the nozzle though? Also, my local Diesel specialty shop said that the IMA codes are tied to the SOLENOID itself because of the variances in magnetic flux between solenoids. That's why the IMA code is molded into the solenoid cap. where did you get the information that the IMA code needs to be changed if the nozzle is changed?
@@MBDieselFreak
I think hes grasping at straws.
@@MBDieselFreak sorry for the late reply. At least on any refurbished injector we ever recieved to be installed there IMA codes with it and I'd guess for a reason. As Ford is kinda weird how they number their cylinders depending on what you're currently doing with the engine. Either in their firing order or from the transmission. It happened that the codes were mixed up and you could definetly tell by the way the engine than ran that you've mixed up the codes. I didn't say they don't work but if you know the difference than you can certainly tell. Yes there are universal codes that you can find but why mess with that if everbody can get a proper code for 20 bucks or so.
DID THE RE-LAPPING WORK TO STOP YOUR SEEP?
i would not think that 2 surfaces of such fine caliber would call for re lapping, as no wear can take place?
Perfect video thanks
I liked the videoz Found it useful
HOWEVER There’s something bothering me!
When you start rubbing the nozzle on the sandpaper wouldn’t it get filled up with small dust particles from the grains that come off the paper? 🤔
That's why it's important to put the nozzle and injector body BACK into the ultrasonic after lapping to get all the aluminum oxide and iron particles off of it. ;)
MBDieselFreak wouldn’t that still leave some particles in the needle area? Otherwise, why not just take the needle out and then at the end ultrasonic clean all of it?
Thanks so much
hi:)
I have a bosch commonrail injector part № 30750283. Would you please tell me how much (Nm) tightening torque to tighten the nozzle?
what liquid are you using in the ultrasonic cleaner? Nice tutorial .
Hi there!
I have an OM642 and I tried to remove one of the injectors and somehow I managed to break the return line of a nearby injector. It didn't fall, but it's bent and I'm afraid I messed up very bad and I need a new injector. Any chance of changing that top part?
Also, are you buying new nozzles for the injectors or just cleaning them?
Thanks a bunch:)
Bro can you help me with procuring new nozzle tip. I am from India but India new
Noozle is not available only Chinese duplicates are available.
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Great video, when you clean the nozzle and body could this temporary fix my leaky injectors because you are removing material from the nozzle and body of the injector .
Can you give me a suggestion? I posted this on a forum but no advice yet:
I am not knoledgeable enought and sorry to call it misfire for a diesel.
it is actually like a hiccup and it feels/sounds like an explosion. Thought it has something to do with the combustion. Dealer wanted to change 3 injectors for bad values but not specific codes quoting me at $2800 before tax.
Other mechanics recommendations were injectors as well. Therefore I had my Indy changing some of the injectors today with no change.
As short history car has 166k miles and this started at about 164k miles shortly after and around or at about the time of adding freezing additive for diesel fuel while a tank fill up which could be just coincidence.
Egr code has been on and off rarely every now and then for the past year...about 35k miles.
Lp fuel pump in tank replaced at about 145-150k miles. Shortly after at about 155k miles fuel filter changed.
No start up problems, no smoke like when bad injectors. No hiccups for the first 5-10 min when cold. Then thy start randomly intensifying in frequency with the warmer the engine gets, but also sound/feel of the hiccups/explosion/detonation intensify itself as well. The fee is more like a skip of something like a big heavy chain from a gear to another.
It also sounds/feel like a gun intermittently shooting one round then within a second 2-3 rounds then one more or 2 seconds another 2-3 rounds.
It gets overrided when accelerating and the feel/sound of the hiccup/explosion/detonation reduces with higher RPM to the point of when reaching anything above 1500 it seems like it’s goes away or it is not there anymore.
Could it be the High Pressure pump? Could it be my EGR stuck closed/opened influencing the intake with high temp exhaust gases recirculating since it starts to be more pronounced warming up and it is never there at cold start?
Please let me know if anyone experienced anything similar or what else you guys may think of.
Hey I know this is about a year old, but I put all 6 injectors new into my 2005 e320 cdi. And I was wondering if I needed to do anything to the injectors. I have a mb dealership about 45 mins from me. But as anyone I avoid going their because I feel taken advantage of when I do. And I also have found anything online saying that there is anything else I need to do. I replaced the copper washer and retaining bolt. Also I put on a new fuel filter. But do I need to ge the injectors matched to the ecm.?
they need recoding into computer ?
Thanks for the video! I love the om648, my absolute favorite engine. I rebuilt the injectors in my old 7.3 and it was a breeze. It's ashame these can't be totally rebuilt DIY but I get it. Mine are fine now but I know the day will come when I have to do this or slap on some rebuilds. I had a 06 e320 cdi with 425k on it before some bimbo pulled out in front of the wife and totaled it. We replaced it with an 05 of the same make and model and it currently has over 300k. I know it won't be long now. These engines are tanks. Love the pre DPF engines. Thanks again, very helpful. Btw, did the lapping seal it up this time or did you have more problems? Hope it went good.
Chris
lapping did seem to fix the issue! i still have yet to re-lap all the other injectors though, they're all leaking very slowly. which i dont really mind to be honest as it keeps the injector bore clean haha.
@@MBDieselFreak leaking? to where,internally or to the outside?
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Video dobré jen mám dotaz. Těsnění tam dávat nemusiš?
Do they make replacement injectors tips for the 0.8L cdi smart
Thank you for the video, very much appreciate the videos. What would be really nice is to be able to increase the flow rate of the injectors. I already have some C30CDI injectors but would like to check the flow rate. Any thoughts on how we could do that in a DIY fashion? Flow rate is something that would be great to check even with stockers. Also I like the brass return line fittings, so much nicer than the stock plastic ones. I replaced mine a long time ago.
There's no way to check the flow rate outside of the car without specialised equipment. It requires a computer to fire the injectors and 24,000 psi of fuel pressure to work up to max load pressure. I don't trust any type of containment device to hold back 24,000 psi of Diesel sprayed out of a jet.
thank you sir for the video, i currently have an issue with my C270 CDI (OM612 engine). the car cuts off the engine upon hard acceleration, i have replaced the high pressure fuel pump and had the injectors "refurbished" from an injector service center but i still have not come right as yet. the car now cranks but doesn't start. Can you assist as to what the problem might be?
Any check engine light? Have you had the car scanned? My first thought with a no start and stalling would be crank and cam position sensors
The pressure control valve on the back of the rail might also be culprit. That needs to make a perfect seal in order for the pump to build pressure, and if the large oring inside is bad, it will leak excessively back to the return
How much fuel is in your tank? If less than a quarter full, check your clear fuel lines for bubbles
the fuel is full @@bucketsbucket1593
there is an engine check light but it's for something else. i will take the car to a different mechanic so he can scan the codes for me, because the current mechanic has an older scanning tool @@MBDieselFreak
Awesome video!! I just had a question though, about how the vinal tubing is there to protect debree, dirt of liquids getting into the injector. This is at 8:10
If a small amount of debree or dust actually got through that hole, would this be catastrophic? Can the injector be cleaned out/repair??
If it doesn't destroy the injector within a few thousand miles, it will absolutely shorten it's life. Contamination is the #1 cause of injector failure.
@@MBDieselFreak Hi boss... Thanks for your great video. I need your advice as my injectors seemed to be blocked by Adblue crystals. I wrongly placed Adblue in diesel tank. The car ran for a few minutes then struggles to keep running. Can we clean the injectors ( of Adblue crystals)?
Everywhere on forums I see that om613 came with solenoid injectors and om648 came with piezo injectors, but I haven't been able to find a definitive answer whether 648 injectors are actually piezo. The injector internals are absolutely identical from om611 612 613 and om646 647 648. MBDieselFreak do you know or anyone know for sure?
Om642 uses piezo injectors, the om648 injectors are identical in function to the om613, they're operated by a solenoid actuated hydraulic valve.
@@MBDieselFreak I know that the part numbers are different and there are a few internal veriations, but do they interchange to a degree?
@@diypro9084 i dont believe so. the 613 had different power figures and most likely a different spray angle, so no i dont think the 613 injectors are interchangeable with the 646/647/648
@@MBDieselFreak Thanks for the reply. I own 3 cdi's so this channel is very informative for me.
om612 does not exchange with om647 Sprinters. VERY different rail pressure ranges
How about liwei nozzle injector?
Why you call it changing the nozzles when you don't change them? what's the point of doing all what you do if you don't change the nozzle?
32 foot pound is the torq for the nozel -
torque it to 50 ft lbs and use some locktite on the thread 👍
actually i would not recommend doing the lapping cause by hand will never be as "clean" as you need it ... imagine 2000 bars of presure moving through the injector ...
I just did the hand lapping ...start from grit 1.5k up to 5k works fine for me. All you have to do is be careful and think what you doing. And yes machine lapping would be probably safer ....if you have one. ;)
Looking at this video...I'm not going to attempt it ..i don't have the skills in my hands for small parts like that.
Thank you :)
Pour nettoyer la glace du porte injecteur,j'utilise la cendre de cigarette.
Nice
i get too much leak by so i buy a refurbished set, they last a year if im lucky then to much leak by again. it would be nice to have one of these injectors last long enough to consider new nozzles . other diesels knock out hundreds of thousands of miles without being touched. yet these injectors have the lifespan of a spark plug. edit. no. thats being mean to spark plugs
👏👏👏👏
1:02 Its on too tight how did you loosen this? Didn't see you use a vice or clamp? Are you just a brute? Lol
🤝✊☝️
you don't remove internal parts of nozzle not to let contaminants go inside,but you sandpaper it?? something weird about it man
Every single diesel injection shop laps components when rebuilding, its a requirement to get a good seal between steel surfaces. The tolerance between the nozzle and plunger are too small to let lapping contaminants in. As long as the contaminants are removed after lapping, it's not a problem. 5 years later and the same injectors are still working perfectly.
@@MBDieselFreak I'm sure about that. And it's a great job what you have done. But if you pay attention when dismantling the injector and take out even the needle from the nozzle, would be a better job. Simple
@massimilianocampana3951 the more I've talked to diesel techs, the more I agree with that. A ton of rebuilders remove the nozzle plunger and have no issues as long as everything is cleaned before reassembly. It was just a myth that removing the plunger = bad juju.
Not even a microscopic dust can go in.....gets a freaking sandpaper.....
You realize that lapping precision mating surfaces requires an abrasive? And that introduces particulate? I was careful to clean off everything post lapping. 5 years later and the injectors are still working perfectly.
Torque spec = FT
OM 648? haha tiens un moteur que je ne connais pas !lol
Would be good video if he check the view area, half what he was pratting on about was hidden, spoiled it for me,
It will be a lot better if you can show wat you are really doing, by moving your camera in the proper position. The rest is ok.
Jolene
Like
Ur better then Alex.
"Simple", not "simplistic".