A How to guide for preparing a greenhouse base on a single course of bricks. Tips and techniques to get the construction of your brick plinth square and level.
Hi mark, good informative video. I'm wondering, can i fix the greenhouse straight into the concrete, skipping laying bricks entirely? Or is the concrete too unstable unless i put rebar in as well?
It really depends on the type of greenhouse. This model needed the brick plinth to be slightly higher than the base to create a drip cill effect. I have done another video on my channel called “Which Greenhouse is Best” this shows a different base construction for a different brand of greenhouse. Hope this helps 😊
@@SpencerCollection cool! I'll look for it now. Yeah the greenhouse i'm planning to buy says "base included" and its the aluminun base, so i'm not sure how much more foundation i need for it.. keep up the great videos 💪🏾
@@sharileenlimpin5534 thank you for the compliment it really helps me keep creating. The greenhouse company should provide you some base preparation details too.
@@SpencerCollection i am thinking of getting a green house 6x8. I have had a look at a few companies including the one in the video. Others have been open about the prices apart from this company. Do you have any idea how much a classic 6 would cost?
@@photodiagnostics Hi thats interesting! Gabriel Ash as like other premium brands don't normally have a set price list. This is not due to keeping secrets it is just that the range is so vast that the list could be very long and confusing. From memory a standard Classic 6x8 is approximately £2-£3k depending on what offers they have on. Don't quote me on this because this is best guess from a friend who had one. I am sure if you call them they will give you a more concrete quote on the model you are interested in. Hope this helps!
Hi Daniel, the corner template I think You are referring to is an aluminium folding square that is 1m x 1m you can buy them from must builders merchants. Hope this helps.
Hi, great vid...Question please, if adding a middle slab walkway, should extra mot1 be laid in this section to support the pavers with a dry mortar mix on top of the mot or, just rest the pavers on the gravel that was spread over the whole site? If so at what depth would this hard core need to be? Many thanks.
Hi Mark thank you. Yes I would always put mot1 under any paving. Ideally this needs to be 6” deep (15 -20cm). Don’t forget to allow space for the mortar bed and slab thickness when working out the finished height of the mot.
Excellent, thanks Mark great advice. I noticed you were using quality blue solid engineering bricks as a perimeter. I see they can come in 2,3 4 inch depths (eg staffordshire, kettler types) what would you say as a minimum thickness of brick when fixing GH to them? (8×8 aluminium with 4mm safety glass). Regards Mark
Nice instructional video. Thanks for posting. I'm looking to assemble a similar size greenhouse. How can I estimate the amount of concrete required for the base?
That’s a good question! And I am not 100% I normally call a friend 😂 basically you have to work out the cube volume but not confident enough to tell you for certain although this is a great idea for a video. Sorry I can’t be of better help
I'm looking to use 60 x 60 paving slabs as a complete base/floor for my 6ft x 8ft greenhouse. I want the floor to be able to drain but should I still put a concrete footing around the perimeter/outside edge of the slabs? Thanks for the video.
I always recommend leaving an area of gravel to help with drainage and this gives an area to keep moist helping the humidity in the greenhouse. It really depends on the make of the greenhouse and the method of fixing. Remember if you are using raw-plugs in the paving slabs and they are only 30mm thick this is the only fixing you will have, although as you say you might be able to fix through and into the footing. Hope this helps
I have never used Quikrete so I can not really advise on this. All I can say is that for this type of greenhouse the traditional concrete footing and brick plinth is the best solution. Hope this helps
Hi thanks for watching, the main reason is because when you fix the greenhouse to the base you can not get a good fixing in a brick with a hole in it. Better to have a solid one where you can get a good fixing. Hope this helps
Thanks for the video I watched,I'm only a starter so all the advice you'd given me was fab Thank-you 😅
Thanks for your kind words and so pleased it’s helped 😊
Quality. Thanks for posting.
Thanks Nigel pleased you got something from this.
Thank you for the video Mark. From San Francisco.
sky queen thanks for the feedback glad it was of use.
Hi mark, good informative video.
I'm wondering, can i fix the greenhouse straight into the concrete, skipping laying bricks entirely? Or is the concrete too unstable unless i put rebar in as well?
It really depends on the type of greenhouse. This model needed the brick plinth to be slightly higher than the base to create a drip cill effect. I have done another video on my channel called “Which Greenhouse is Best” this shows a different base construction for a different brand of greenhouse. Hope this helps 😊
@@SpencerCollection cool! I'll look for it now. Yeah the greenhouse i'm planning to buy says "base included" and its the aluminun base, so i'm not sure how much more foundation i need for it.. keep up the great videos 💪🏾
@@sharileenlimpin5534 thank you for the compliment it really helps me keep creating. The greenhouse company should provide you some base preparation details too.
Thank you for the video.very informative....
Thanks for the feedback. I am pleased you found it helpful.
@@SpencerCollection i am thinking of getting a green house 6x8. I have had a look at a few companies including the one in the video. Others have been open about the prices apart from this company. Do you have any idea how much a classic 6 would cost?
@@photodiagnostics Hi thats interesting! Gabriel Ash as like other premium brands don't normally have a set price list. This is not due to keeping secrets it is just that the range is so vast that the list could be very long and confusing. From memory a standard Classic 6x8 is approximately £2-£3k depending on what offers they have on. Don't quote me on this because this is best guess from a friend who had one. I am sure if you call them they will give you a more concrete quote on the model you are interested in. Hope this helps!
Great 👍 thanks
Thank you hope it helped 👍🏻
Really helpful thanks
Thanks for the comment this really helps me with motivation to produce more. I have a few projects I am working on and hoping to publish them soon.
Do you make just whip up that corner template depending on wall size for each new project? Or I guess you probably reuse them?
Hi Daniel, the corner template I think You are referring to is an aluminium folding square that is 1m x 1m you can buy them from must builders merchants. Hope this helps.
@@SpencerCollection ty
Hi, great vid...Question please, if adding a middle slab walkway, should extra mot1 be laid in this section to support the pavers with a dry mortar mix on top of the mot or, just rest the pavers on the gravel that was spread over the whole site? If so at what depth would this hard core need to be? Many thanks.
Hi Mark thank you. Yes I would always put mot1 under any paving. Ideally this needs to be 6” deep (15 -20cm). Don’t forget to allow space for the mortar bed and slab thickness when working out the finished height of the mot.
Excellent, thanks Mark great advice.
I noticed you were using quality blue solid engineering bricks as a perimeter. I see they can come in 2,3 4 inch depths (eg staffordshire, kettler types) what would you say as a minimum thickness of brick when fixing GH to them? (8×8 aluminium with 4mm safety glass). Regards Mark
@@markturner7550 we used standard blue engineering bricks 3” deep. These should be more that adequate. Make sure they are the solid ones 👍🏻
Brilliant, thank you Mark!
Nice instructional video. Thanks for posting. I'm looking to assemble a similar size greenhouse. How can I estimate the amount of concrete required for the base?
That’s a good question! And I am not 100% I normally call a friend 😂 basically you have to work out the cube volume but not confident enough to tell you for certain although this is a great idea for a video. Sorry I can’t be of better help
I'm looking to use 60 x 60 paving slabs as a complete base/floor for my 6ft x 8ft greenhouse. I want the floor to be able to drain but should I still put a concrete footing around the perimeter/outside edge of the slabs? Thanks for the video.
I always recommend leaving an area of gravel to help with drainage and this gives an area to keep moist helping the humidity in the greenhouse. It really depends on the make of the greenhouse and the method of fixing. Remember if you are using raw-plugs in the paving slabs and they are only 30mm thick this is the only fixing you will have, although as you say you might be able to fix through and into the footing. Hope this helps
@@SpencerCollection Thanks Mark
All looks so easy…🤔
Hopefully the video will help. You do need to have both the tools and at least some experience in building.
Can I use Quikrete for the base?
I have never used Quikrete so I can not really advise on this. All I can say is that for this type of greenhouse the traditional concrete footing and brick plinth is the best solution. Hope this helps
Why not bricks with holes?
Hi thanks for watching, the main reason is because when you fix the greenhouse to the base you can not get a good fixing in a brick with a hole in it. Better to have a solid one where you can get a good fixing. Hope this helps
@@SpencerCollection ah thanks, seems obvious now that you mention it
@@stuntedmonk no problem thanks for watching 😊
Greenhouses bases
Hope the video was helpful?