The Journey of 3D Printing
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- Опубліковано 8 гру 2023
- AceAddity sent me some resin to try out:
Water Washable Pro - Photopolymer Resin @Aceaddity aceaddity.com
I've never used water washable so we'll see how it goes!
Also i'll show you how I hollow out my prints in the slicing software, and a bit more of my post processing. Enjoy!
Sliced with @lychee Lychee slicer
Sculpts made with Nomad Sculpt on iPad Pro 2022
Printed with @ANYCUBIC3D Anycubic Photon M3 Premium
#nomadsculpt #tutorial #3dmodeling
Application: Nomad Sculpt / Device: iPad Pro 2022
(Blender Renders will have BLENDER logo on them)
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Please leave a comment below and let me know what you think!
Thanks for watching the video, and for your support! - Розваги
I need to say this. I love your video, your tone of voice, your kindness. Everything! Thx so so much! You re so relaxing ! And for the holes and the broken parts, use the milliput clay! It is amazing and perfect!
This channel is very underrated you should have more subs for you amazing work. Keep it up!!
The holes need to go on the side of the model facing the build plate (so opposite of what you did here). You have some big suction cups, they can cause print fails and even break the FEP and leak resin onto the screen! And always lift your models off the build plate with a raft and supports, you can see how hard it is to get off without damaging your model.
Thanks for the email! I appreciate the tips- still have a lot to learn, especially with new resin. I’ve had a few fails since and some models breaking trying to get them off the build plate (again). I’ll def look into the info you mentioned 💯👍🏾
Hey Dave, just a quick tip on cleaning the FEP, don’t use the napkins it might scratch it, I always use a microfiber cloth, I cut it in 3 small pieces and vacuum it after cutting it so it won’t leave the little fuzz. Happy printing 🤙
You could super glue the broken parts. Then put uncured resin along the cracked area and then shine a uv flashlight on it for a min or two and it’ll cure. Then you sand over it. 😎🤘🏼
Also there is a option on chitu slicer where you can punch your drain holes out and it allows you to print the punch hole so you can print it and plug it back in vs filing it with bondo.
Found your channel last night, absolute love the videos man. Such a chill vibe.
You can use the resin as the filler, too. After gluing the parts, brush a little resin on the seam line, then use a uv torch to cure the resin.
Hi Dave, if you print the parts holo, always have the hole at the beginning of the print, or in other words, closer to the build plate. This will prevent vacuum suction. If the print stuck to the build plate too strong, you can lower the bottom exposure time.
I think I’m having issues perhaps do to temperature. Lots of fails lately… also might need a new fep soon 😓
I really love your videos, please talk more about 3D printing, it's a very interesting topic.
Hi, I've watched many of your tutorials and refer back to them constantly, so Thank You for them.
I NEVER attach models onto the Build Plate, they will always have problems and you can damage the FEP with some larger ones.
Use a Raft and then add the Supports to suspend the model, that way when you break off the Model the Raft may crack but all that will happen to the model is that it will break away from the supports with minimal damage (none really).
When you do remove the Raft/Supports off the Model, put the whole thing in some warm/hot (not boiling) water for a minute (at most) then you'll watch as they magiaclly slip off and make their way to the trash bin... maybe not the last bit...
Keep up the great tutorials. Thanks once again.
to know or put the holes, you have the function, suction cup detection 😊
I love your content! ♥
I love your content🥰, for information you can automatically raise your model above the tray. we recommend 5 mm above the tray
7:50 - I usually use warm water in a sonic cleaning machine. I find I get less chalky marks on the finished print after curing.
I had to give up on the water! The denatured alcohol and ipa works pretty well, guess I’ll stick to that for now. No luck with printing on the build plate.. I think that’s the end of that for me!
I had poor results with water washable also. I guess the only plus is the reduced smell.
@roofoofighter that’s where I’m at. I switched back to regular Anycubic after a few more fails. Granted also I don’t think I had the holes placed correctly for the models too. I kinda want lychee pro so I can have more control over the models!
@@drugfreedave yes Lychee Pro is worth it!
Pouring just off the boil kettle water across the build plate and base of the print helps to remove the print a lot easier
always wanted a sla printer... BUT the problem with resin is it breaks very easy and it stinks and its a mess... i do alot of tinkering with esp and itx builds and stuff.. .so i also need something i can do mechanical and technical parts with not just figures... so i got me a bambu p1s.. i got it two weeks now and did a few print i made in nomad with it and love it so far.. came out really nice i was really impressed for simple stuff like urs they also work very good! do have a acount on printable or thingiverse or whatever? btw dont they have magnetic build plates for ur printer? its alot easier to get them off ...
Hello water washable resin is a disaster for environment. Keep the good work.
Oh why so? I’m letting the water evaporate outside from the first go, but now I just use denatured and ipa as with my regular anycibic resin. What makes the water washable worse?
because a lot of people just throw water down the sink. happy to hear you dont do that.@@drugfreedave
@@drugfreedaveit’s only worse for the environment if people think it’s ok to just dump the waste water down the drain.
@@davidc7763 never would I ever 🤚🏾
I guess leaving it outside to evaporate might be hazardous to any animals that might drink it.