Thanks! I haven't seen it done this particular way either, because there's technically suppose to be an additional thermostat. So technically this is experimental. I've heat cycled the engine a bunch of times and everything is working well so far.
Anthony I give you credit for engineering opinion. But I just don't follow what is the suppose problem your trying to fix. If I have to work on my engine every 100 K miles, why bother with modifying that coolant line? Please explain.
Interesting to see how this mod turns out for you, JWT recommends the HR headgasket mod for better cooling over the DE design but its a bit more involved. Nice video!
What's the difference with the HR head gasket? Ya I'm not sure if I can quantify the mod because the temps look the same so far. We'll see if they stay lower in the middle of summer or if it cools down faster when the cooling fans kick on.
@@AnthonyJ350 HR headgasket mod allows coolant to flow to the rear cylinders and rear of the engine block on the exhaust side as opposed to the DE that only has coolant passages at the front of the headgasket (or towards front of the engine). HIgher temps in the rear are what could lead to oil consumption in cars that see high stress. BUT I would only do this if you plan on refreshing or rebuilding the engine.
@@joaquinmalagon9343 Interesting, and no modification needs to be done to the cylinder head? I agree, only worth it if you need to change the gasket. And you might as well have the heads ported & polished and possibly change the camshafts if going that far.
No modifications need to be done to the cylinder head BUT I almost forgot to mention that the only modifications that need to be done are machining of the cooling jacket opening on the block by about 10-11mm and possibly machining required to the block to fit the longer Nissan Juke bolts required but might not be required, some engines don’t need it for some reason
@@joaquinmalagon9343 Interesting. All the work into upgrading cams (if you're going to pull the heads off) it might be cheaper to just put an LS V8 in the car lol.
Do you know the name and/or part number of the Pathfinder engine block hose connector, so I can search for one? BTW, great video. I've added it to my 350Z Technical videos playlist 😃
Hi Anthony, just wanted to ask, now after some time has the mod improved the cooling on your Z? Considering doing this mod, with your experience now, would you advise to still do it? Thanks!
It seems to be perfectly happy idling in 35+ degree Celcius sitting in stop and go traffic. I would definitely recommend it, since it's an engineered design from Nissan to aid in durability for their trucks. It's just a matter if you're willing to do the work, because it does take some effort.
Hey wanted to ask you something. I am getting to getting a seat set up with Tanaka adjustable seats and Tanaka adjustable rails included, 1320 brackets and still deciding on a 4 point harness. Anyway I am fixing to get a harness bar and my choices I have seen are a Graffiti Motorsports fixed harness bar, a Braum adjustable harness bar, or an NRG adjustable harness bar. I was thinking of the Braum one but what is your opinion? This is a street car and will not see a track day more than once a year if that, still want the look and extra safety though. Will be keeping the original seatbelt as well.
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks for the reply man always good to here your opinion. That valve cover job where you replaced the gaskets looked so simple if I had a garage I would do my own too.
@@DragoMusivini It was, just a lot of steps to get them in. It was good to have the valve covers off to inspect the cam shafts and seeing them red now makes the engine bay pop 🙂
@@AnthonyJ350 I am getting them in black as part of a bundle from Z1 soon. I just past my inspection in the clown state of New York and I got someone that will help me out with the visual for the seat set I am getting. Tanakas with the adjuster bars and then a pair of low 1320 seat bases. Also getting the harness bar but now sure where I am getting the harnesses. Probably Tanaka as well.
I put in the Z1 mid weight 21 lbs flywheel in my 03 with a new sprung clutch. It is absolutely fantastic. Taking the 6 lbs out of the flywheel is noticeable when revving the motor.
Sikky thermal isolating gaskets. They're about an 1/8" thick so you have to consider you may have some clearance issues to deal with after, depending on the plenum spacer you run.
@@AnthonyJ350 where about? I see the kit but it says it’s just the oem parts to bolt on, it’s not fabbed up like yours where it’s easy to access the crank and camshaft sensors
Never seen this done before, well at least here in the UK. Love the attention to detail as always.
Thanks! I haven't seen it done this particular way either, because there's technically suppose to be an additional thermostat. So technically this is experimental. I've heat cycled the engine a bunch of times and everything is working well so far.
@@AnthonyJ350 very nicely done, can't see why it should do the job now just fine 👌
Anthony I give you credit for engineering opinion. But I just don't follow what is the suppose problem your trying to fix. If I have to work on my engine every 100 K miles, why bother with modifying that coolant line? Please explain.
@@stealthg35infiniti94 Look up why Pathfinders need it.
Interesting to see how this mod turns out for you, JWT recommends the HR headgasket mod for better cooling over the DE design but its a bit more involved. Nice video!
What's the difference with the HR head gasket? Ya I'm not sure if I can quantify the mod because the temps look the same so far. We'll see if they stay lower in the middle of summer or if it cools down faster when the cooling fans kick on.
@@AnthonyJ350 HR headgasket mod allows coolant to flow to the rear cylinders and rear of the engine block on the exhaust side as opposed to the DE that only has coolant passages at the front of the headgasket (or towards front of the engine). HIgher temps in the rear are what could lead to oil consumption in cars that see high stress. BUT I would only do this if you plan on refreshing or rebuilding the engine.
@@joaquinmalagon9343 Interesting, and no modification needs to be done to the cylinder head? I agree, only worth it if you need to change the gasket. And you might as well have the heads ported & polished and possibly change the camshafts if going that far.
No modifications need to be done to the cylinder head BUT I almost forgot to mention that the only modifications that need to be done are machining of the cooling jacket opening on the block by about 10-11mm and possibly machining required to the block to fit the longer Nissan Juke bolts required but might not be required, some engines don’t need it for some reason
@@joaquinmalagon9343 Interesting. All the work into upgrading cams (if you're going to pull the heads off) it might be cheaper to just put an LS V8 in the car lol.
We need a before and after of the Sikky lower manifold thermal gaskets!
For temperature? I'm doing a break down video of how I reworked the entire plenum.
Do you know the name and/or part number of the Pathfinder engine block hose connector, so I can search for one?
BTW, great video. I've added it to my 350Z Technical videos playlist 😃
I got mine from Z1 Motorsports website. Part number should be there.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks. Will check the site
Hi Anthony, just wanted to ask, now after some time has the mod improved the cooling on your Z? Considering doing this mod, with your experience now, would you advise to still do it? Thanks!
It seems to be perfectly happy idling in 35+ degree Celcius sitting in stop and go traffic. I would definitely recommend it, since it's an engineered design from Nissan to aid in durability for their trucks.
It's just a matter if you're willing to do the work, because it does take some effort.
100% done. Will test it out soon enough
Whats the outer diameter of the water outlet nipple. Gonna do this just dont wanna have to wait for the outlet cap to arrive to measure lol
I don't remember honestly
Hey wanted to ask you something. I am getting to getting a seat set up with Tanaka adjustable seats and Tanaka adjustable rails included, 1320 brackets and still deciding on a 4 point harness. Anyway I am fixing to get a harness bar and my choices I have seen are a Graffiti Motorsports fixed harness bar, a Braum adjustable harness bar, or an NRG adjustable harness bar. I was thinking of the Braum one but what is your opinion? This is a street car and will not see a track day more than once a year if that, still want the look and extra safety though. Will be keeping the original seatbelt as well.
I honestly don't have any personal experience with them, but when I was looking into the the Graffiti harness bar design I liked the most.
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks for the reply man always good to here your opinion. That valve cover job where you replaced the gaskets looked so simple if I had a garage I would do my own too.
@@DragoMusivini It was, just a lot of steps to get them in. It was good to have the valve covers off to inspect the cam shafts and seeing them red now makes the engine bay pop 🙂
@@AnthonyJ350 I am getting them in black as part of a bundle from Z1 soon. I just past my inspection in the clown state of New York and I got someone that will help me out with the visual for the seat set I am getting. Tanakas with the adjuster bars and then a pair of low 1320 seat bases. Also getting the harness bar but now sure where I am getting the harnesses. Probably Tanaka as well.
@@AnthonyJ350 Also one other thing. I got that pesky evap code p0455 could the leaky valve cover gasket cause it possibly however remotely?
So its just an extra spot that's just block off before this mod behind the knock sensor?
That's right, Nissan engineered it to flow coolant out of the block.
Where you get the housing part on the lower area
Got it on Z1 Motorsports web site
How you get the part so clean
A lot of new parts
What is your opinion on light weight fly wheel for the 350z?
Depends on how you're using the car. I think Z1's mid weight fly wheel would be great for the street and still do well for track fun.
I put in the Z1 mid weight 21 lbs flywheel in my 03 with a new sprung clutch. It is absolutely fantastic. Taking the 6 lbs out of the flywheel is noticeable when revving the motor.
what year 350z/370z should I consider..for reliability?…I’m looking at them or a Subaru WRX
If reliability is the only concern 2005.5 is probably the best overall. It doesn't have as much power though.
@@AnthonyJ350..287hp is good enough for me..
@@AnthonyJ350 2005.5 is DERevUp ?
@@hakimrahman85 No it would still be a regular DE. Revup is 2005 Anniversary or 2006 manual transmission equipped cars.
@@mikalkielli3351 2005 would probably your best bet for reliability. I would read consumer reports to help verify.
What gaskets are those in red?
Sikky thermal isolating gaskets. They're about an 1/8" thick so you have to consider you may have some clearance issues to deal with after, depending on the plenum spacer you run.
the most in
I don't understand this comment.
brotha change and upgrade your clutch fork
You can see the clutch fork in this video?
Bro sell this and I’ll buy one
Z1 Motorsports sells it.
@@AnthonyJ350 where about? I see the kit but it says it’s just the oem parts to bolt on, it’s not fabbed up like yours where it’s easy to access the crank and camshaft sensors