Chisel sharpening, woodworking
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- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
- Get The Sharpening Jig here:
www.mikefarrin...
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In this video I go through the process of how to sharpening a few Japanese chisels I bought off eBay. I was lucky in that when the chisels showed up they were very high quality, so I decided to give them the royal treatment and bring them back to their former glory. I have posted links below for those in need of some sharpening gear.
Keep in mind that sharpening is a big topic. How to do it and what is a good enough result will differ person to person. My angle is fine carpentry and fine woodworking. I want my tools sharp enough to perform tasks within these two disciplines. After using a bunch of different methods, jigs, stones, etc. I have refined my system to what I showed in this video. I do not discourage other methods, there are many and lots of them work great. This is just what works best for me.
Sharpening starts with a flat back, I think this is best done on a diamond stone. Even though they cut slow, they stay flat. I have tried to flatten backs with water stones, and I end up never really getting flat, as the stone dishes, that dish is transferred to the back on the blade. So, a diamond stone it is. Extra coarse and extra fine are great starting points. Once the back has been buffed with the diamond stones, move on to the water stones. 5k is a great stone. If all you did was work up to the 5k stone, you will have a very sharp tool. 8k is sharper still. Past that, diminishing returns, it's fun but doesn't really net a ton of results. I should mention, at each step cutting short is only going to cause problems. Spend enough time at each grit to be thorough. A magnifying glass can do wonders at this step. It takes away some of the guessing as to when you are done with a particular grit.
Once the back is dialed in, grind the bevel. This really should be done at a bench grinder. A cheap grinder from a garage sale will do this step fine. For most chisels 25-30 degrees is just fine and the place you should start. A belt sander or disc sander can do this process as well if a bench grinder isn't available. So if you don't have a bench grinder look at what other aggressive sanders you have in your shop, one of them can probably help with setting up your bevels.
After the bevel is ground, it's time for final sharpening. I think my jig is a great way to go. It's quick, easy and consistent. Polish up to your selected grit and get to work. Doing this freehand is fine as well, it is a little slower and takes a bit more practice.
Sharpening is important! If you are installing a lockset on a door, or fitting a dovetail, your work is going to look like garbage if your tools aren't sharp. If you take the craft seriously, take sharpening seriously. The closest thing to a super hero power in woodworking is having really sharp tools. Let me know your thoughts, feel free to ask questions.
Radom thoughts in a passing parade...
Stropping, I don't like stropping because it is slightly inconsistent. It rounds over the area that is being sharpened. This really isn't a problem until it is, as you go through touchup sharpenings, it becomes difficult to really hit the stropped area.
Microscopes and magnifying glasses. I think you should get on or the other. A decent magnifying glass is like a 10-15$ purchase and can really give great insight as to what is happening with your scratch patterns as well as the burr. Better still is a microscope like the one in the video. These are like 35ish bucks, but really get in close and show what the deal is.
Stuff and Junk I used in this video:
Wear a fun shirt: amzn.to/4hARMK4
4 pack of water stones: amzn.to/40B9beL
2 pack of stones, this is a great starting point: amzn.to/4jxjGrX
12k stone for some extra credit: amzn.to/42zZRtX
30k stone for the hardcore sharpener: amzn.to/42ADtAY
Here is my recommendation for diamond stones:
Diamond stone, extra coarse: amzn.to/40EgoKQ
Diamond stone, extra fine: amzn.to/4ggYIL9
Lapping plate, don't buy a cheap one of these, this one is certified to a certain level of flatness, I am not sure if the cheaper versions are: amzn.to/3EjkEYY
Cabinet door bumpers: amzn.to/40Qz77g
Microscope: amzn.to/3PT6SPh
Magnifying glass: amzn.to/4hrhoJc
GlueBot: amzn.to/3ErGtFt
Cheap grinding wheels: amzn.to/4jBkADJ
Mid grade grinding wheels, these are awesome: amzn.to/4hi6aam
Top of the line grinding wheels (80 and 180 are useful grits, but 80 is the starting point): amzn.to/40SGMCg
Bench grinder I should have bought: amzn.to/40Es00i
Bench grinder I have: amzn.to/3WGOc9c
Tormek bench grinder attachment: amzn.to/42zTFT4
Tormek chisel grinding attachment: amzn.to/4hxVkfP
This is the most informative and well explained sharpening discourse I have seen. Thank you.
Wow, thank you!
Always a good day when I see Mike Farrington pop up in my UA-cam feed!!! Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Always learning something from your videos. Today, stones score more metal than diamond ones. 👌
I’ll soon get that sharpening jig..
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing, Mike.
Thank you very much.
Excellent video, thank you very much.
Art from Ohio
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks Mike, I bought the jig and the recommended water stones and could not be happier. I have a drawer populated with sharpening jigs and a set of diamond stones that while proficient it was always a problem for me duplicating results. With this jig results are repeatable for me and tools are super duper sharp. The camber stops for plane blades are great for repeatable cambers.
Glad it's working out for you. This is great to hear.
1:38 finely someone doing this.... this is very important step!!! i do it on western chisels as well.
I agree. Thank you.
Well done Mike 👍
Thank you.
My son is starting his carpentry journey in trade school like I did. He has to work with hand tools. I had to show him the difference between sharp hand tools compared to what he was working with. The look on his face when he pushed on a chisel and it glided through end grain was priceless. As a renovation/finish carpenter I only have diamond stones. They have been sufficient but I have considered adding a strop to the kit.
A sharp tool, it's like super hero power for woodworkers.
Thanks for another awesome video Mike. I always love your restoration videos and this one felt like that but with a more tip-based approach. Really appreciated the bit about when/how to ground the bevel back down when it gets too big.
Thank you. That is a neat tip, when you hear it, it seems so natural.
Thanks Mike! Learn something great every time I watch your videos!
Thank you.
Love the sharpening Jig, thanks for the great video. I learn things with every video you make!!
Thank you, I am glad you are enjoying them.
Nice video, Mr. Mike Farrington! Just bought your jig today so thought I’d freshen up on some of your sharpening skills. Thanks for making these videos.
You’re welcome. Let me know how the jig works out for you!
I purchased a set of hand planes (kanna) from an ebay seller in japan last year. The blades are such an credible quality! I will be looking for a set of chisels next
Good stuff for sure.
I am so grateful to you for you making this video 🙏
My pleasure 😊
This was fantastic.. it’ll be nice to refer back to this video as needed.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, its cool to be able to learn from someone like you and be mildly entertained..
Thanks! I hope it’s helpful.
Phenomenal content. Superbly amazing video as usual Mike. Grateful 🙏🏻
Much appreciated!
Fantastic video, as always!
Mildly entertaining, Yes. Not at all vomitous. 🙂 I don't use my chisels often, so sharpen them even less frequently, and need every bit of reminder on How To Sharpen (so I don't accidentally destroy them.) Many thanks!
And I think I finally understand The Burr and how to get rid of it properly.
Thank you. Happy to hear it helped.
Great lesson!
Great respect for your skills and willingness to share!
Thank you kindly!
Amazing video. I’ve resigned to the fact that I may have to screw up several nice chisel sets to get to this geeky level of sharpening. I bought a new set of Narex chisels months ago and have been afraid to to sharpen them. I’ve probably watched 40 videos on sharpening and this was was next level stuff. Thank you.
Get in there and get started, short of something crazy, there isn't anything you can do to a chisel that can be undone or changed.
Thanks for the great video Mike!
I didn't know about the burr, but everybody knows that the burr is the word!
B B B Burr Burr Burr....
Great video as always, definitely not vomitus. I have been needing to upgrade my sharpening stuff. This was the push I needed.
Thanks, I'm glad the video helped.
Hey brofessor- I enjoy your content and your teaching style. I'm hoping you'll teach a class in Colorado again!
Thank you. We are moving, so unfortunately, classes here in CO will not be happening.
Getting that jig innit......thanks Mike.....love from London
Thank you.
Always a good watch! Thanks for teaching.
My pleasure!
I have been waiting for this video. Thank you sir
You're welcome!
Excellent tips as always, Mike!
Glad you like them!
Thanks Mike! Another great video; very helpful and not “vomitus”!
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it!
Wonderful video, thank you Mike.
Every time I watch your videos I spend money. LOL! 😂
Thank you. Sorry about the money spending.
I found your fears of this videos presentation and your sinks condition to be in great contrast to its actual utilitarian production. Also, I would love to see your shop and get a quote for work one day! NERD!
Ha! Great comment. Thank you very much.
*babe wake up! Mike Farrington put out a new video!*
Ha!
Got the jig. Actually was able to sharpen a chisel for the first time ever.
That is great to hear.
Great vid as always!!
And be nice to yourself, what you might think is excessive detail is rather enjoyable to us viewers!! Always learning so much with your videos
Thanks! Glad you enjoy the detail.
I see those old man glasses. lol I’m 50 and my eyes have been doing me real wrong.
Love the video Mike. Keep them coming. 🙌💪
Thank you. Yeah, my eyes are tapering off pretty quick these days.
Mike, a couple of things...thanks for the sharpening deep dive! And, I'm happy to see that you thought LVLs would make a great work top!
Thank you. I am a fan of LVL as a work top.
Thanks for making this video!
My pleasure!
Thanks for the vid. Gonna pick up some extra stones and your jig!
Glad you liked it!
I'm conflicted, because I hate sharpening, but I love Mike Farrington videos. Guess I'll watch.
Ha!
First visit here. I'm already subbed.
Thanks Mike, even if I'm an old boy (66 years young) I'm still learning. In my (even) younger days, we were taught on oil stones (Norton), as well as Arkansas stones- which should be used with water and not oil! As a young apprentice I was taught to sharpen freehand, ditto with grinding. Now I own a 2nd class Tormek imitation (Leman).
I came to Japanese tools later in life, and of course this led to adopting water stones. I have a few, but I think I'd like to upgrade a little. Your approach is very convincing, even if I have seen others.
The only thing I may have a little reserve about is the hollow grinding, because the Japanese themselves NEVER use this. Okay, your wheels ar pretty big diameter, so the bevel is not too hollow. However, the hollow does tend to weaken the edge, especially when freshly ground.
Those chisels were not at all in bad shape; I have seen some videos where they are just piles of rust! You were dead lucky not to have had to re-hollow out the soles, because that IS a bitch of a job. But you did a fantastic job of bringing them back to life, with an insanely sharp edge.
Thanks for all those excellent tips and great advice.
Greetings from France
(By the way, I'm a cabinet maker and antique furniture restorer by trade)
Good stuff. Thank you for sharing. Yes, I was lucky, when the chisels showed up, I realized that was the case.
Great sharpening video Mike! I love that trowel paring chisel, dang now I want one.
Best Regards, dave couch
Thank you Dave.
Very useful information. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Great job Mike! Sharpening is so key that woodworkers like myself spend way too much money trying to find the elusive "shortcut to sharp."
There are no shortcuts, but there are lots of ways to get sharp. Practice is the best shortcut, just get faster at your system.
Love from East Africa.
Thank you very much.
You forgot the awesome sky timelapse! I think the close-up on the burr made up for it.
Ha! Thank you.
Leonard Lee founder of Lee Valley / Veritas Tools would be proud of you. Thanks for the video. 🇦🇺👴🏻
Thank you. That is a kind thing to say.
Hey Mike I heard you are leaving the Boardroom? Good luck with the move and thank you for all of the great info you share. Will we get to see a few more builds in the Boardroom?
I have one more video in the works, after that, I am packing up. I am currently selling off a bunch of stuff.
Mike your jig is a game changer. It works so nice.
That is great to hear. Thank you.
Many of us wait impatiently for the next MF video! Thank you for all the time and effort you spend. It is greatly appreciated. Looking forward to the next one. Btw, I don't recall any dogs hanging around in the videos. Is it safe to assume that two kids and one dad are enough animals for one wife to tolerate??
That is a safe assumption, also, The Shop Apprentice and I are both mildly allergic.
I'd love to see a bit more about your Tormek jig setup on your Rikon slow speed grinder.
Yup, check out my bench grinder cabinet build. The first half is building the cabinet, the second part is the jigs I picked up.
@@MikeFarrington Fantastic!
Useful tips, as always. I'm often puzzled by Japanese chisels (although I have a couple). What happens when you eventually grind/hone it back into the hollow? Expensive paint can opener. And you can only use it on Japanese paint cans.
That scoop can be manipulated, tapping out, is one method, the other is simply to polish the back until you have more surface.
perhaps an explanation on why there is a scoop on the back of Japanese chisels, what their function is and how they differ from regular flat back chisels. Proper usage is as important as proper sharpening.
Thank you. I have a tendency to meander a little too much with my videos. The scoop, I felt was too off topic. To answer your question, it's there to make sharpening easier. Less metal to polish, means we get sharper faster. Japanese chisels normally use a harder metal than wester chisels, this allows them to get sharper, but that harder metal has a tendency to fracture from use. So sometimes sharpening can be more of a task.
For someone who is just starting out i would recommend to buy a few cheaper diamond stones 400# grit or a little below and 1200# coupled with leather strop, you can get a set like this for around 25$ from aliexpress or another equivalent and this will give you plenty of time to figure out a proper technique which is way more important than having loads of stones. And when you get the knack for it, the results are actually impressive, like flawless hair shaving impressive and they last quite a bit, i did the same and have sharpened my knives and chisels way more than i expected for the price and they are still usable. So through this time you would get a proper understanding of what is possible and decide what you need to buy without wasting too much money on expensive stones too soon. Also a jig like Mike's or something that can hold a steady angle would be immensely useful. Also, great video Mike! I really like your style of making them!
I think this is a good budget option, but keep in mind, buying a diamond stone from a reliable sell they will normally give a flatness spec on the plate. Cheaper plates will not carry a spec. Maybe that is a big deal maybe it's not, but normally you get what you pay for. A leather stop is a good cheap way to polish. Not my favorite, but it is a good workable solution for sure.
@@MikeFarrington Yes, it would be difficult to argue about price vs quality point, as far as i know those cheap ones can have quite a bit of grit contamination for perfect results and they for sure wont last as much as the expensive ones, but from my limited experience for someone just starting out it should be good enough option especially for the price point, as proper stones can cost from 80$-200$ per piece, so 25$/set for a beginner to figure out the ropes and what they actually need should be a good starting option.
@@firelighter7027 I agree with this, if I may offer another data point, the DMT stones can be had for 50ish.
Hi mike! love your content.
I'm halfway through the video. you talk about using different grinding angles. Not sure if you mention it later (or i missed it) .
Is there a specific direction we want to use for the final pass? does it matter at all? (if we're not yet going into the high thousands on the grits and getting a godlike mirror polish like you)
I did not talk about grind angles, I probably should have. I think they matter way less than many would have you believe. 20 to 35 degrees, if it's sharp it will get work done. I do not think direction of final passes makes a difference if the burr is removed well. I think side to side removes a burr more softly, but this is really splitting hairs.
Great tips, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Going to get those cabinet bumpers for that cushion for pushin 🤣
Haha! They'll help.
@@MikeFarrington Im sure. Keep dropping those dad jokes. I keep an ear open for your dry humor one liners in every video. That and of course the educational content. The sanding disc has been awesome over the past few years.
Great video mike. Have you through about making a knife sharpening jig similar to know chisel one. Of course it'll depend on the type of knifes etc...
I have considered it, I just haven't come up with something good enough yet.
Excellent!!
Thank you! Cheers!
@MikeFarrington you're welcome! Cheers🍻
Glue bots for water is a great idea! And feel free to say "hell", I'll be ok. The kids on the internet have heard and seen a lot worse.
Ha! I should just let it rip. Hell yeah.
@@MikeFarrington I will voluntarily provide you with swearing instruction if you need it. I am at a 'creates his own swears' level if you need my qualifications.
@@mattelias721 Ha! Me too. However, my hope that a parent and kid can watch my videos together. So I try to keep it reasonably clean.
@ I'm with you, sarcasm aside. Parent here, too, so I understand.
Very good information, nice video as usual! I am shocked you don’t have a 2x72” belt grinder - I think you would get a LOT of use out of one.
P.S. I haven’t made a video about it yet, but I recently picked up a 16” Dewalt RAS. Was too jealous of your Delta :)
Funny you mention it, I have been looking at various long/narrow belt sanders.
@ I can vouch for the Ameribrade - I have been using mine daily for stuff I never thought of before. Really, really nice machine. The fully enclosed VFD is awesome
@@JimPudar Thank you. Always good to hear a positive experience.
Entertaining as usual. Thank you! I'm totally w/ you through the 1,200 grit diamond stone. I usually go straight to strop, but it bugs me - feels inadequate somehow. Might try the 5,000 to 8 K or 12 K stone & then strop (I like stropping; old schoolsy feel & works w/ my work flow well). I shiver w/ apprehension to committing to water stones - need more woodworker's' Ativan to make the decision. I like your sharpening jigs. May give it a try - I already have several jig systems - addicted; I'm a lazy addict & often just free hand. Maybe a hard translucent Arkansas Stone would work too, hmmm?
Thank you. If you try one stone, go with the 5k. It makes for very sharp tools. I appreciate the input.
Watching and dropping a like from my second channel now ✌️
That is very kind. Thank you.
I love steel
I am currently turning up the volume (to 11) on my sharpening game. I recently got the same Rikon grinder and am having a heck of a time getting the wobble out of one of the wheels. Have you tried the Raptor R3X bushings or did you just keep fiddling with it till it was balanced? Thanks for another edifying video that was as rad as the Truffle Shuffle!
Which wheels are you trying to true up. The ones that come with it are only going to be so good and some are better than others.
@ Yeah, the Aluminum Oxide ones that came with it. Hope to eventually get at least one CBN eventually..
@@greglevandoski2983 Try ordering another cheap wheel. One of the white ones. My guess is you got one that is a little worst than most.
@ Thank you!
I hope this isn’t a sell-U-mmercial 🎉 ❤ for the Farrington sharping jig 😂😂😂😂
Sure, I am pushing my jig. I do so softly and I show an alternative. This is in an attempt to make a useful video, and sell a few jigs.
@@MikeFarrington I know 👍🖖🎯❤️
Would your jig fare well using a diamond stone directly on it, or would it be too course? Ie 400/1200 diamond stone.
Sadly do not have the means to manage the water mess of whetstones
Love the content, keep it up!
It will work. The 400 will wear the jig down a little faster, the 1200 will work fine. My testing showed that 1k and up really didn't have enough bite to do any significant wear to the jig. Though some wear is occurring at all times, 1k was really not measurable.
Thank you! I think you are really onto something here with helping beginners demystify sharpening and get a grasp of the essentials - especially with the versatility and repeatability of the jig@MikeFarrington
I've got a 1000/6000 stone and a 10000 natural stone. I strop after. I've never dreamt of 30k!
The 30 is crazy for sure.
The sharping jig!!!! 9:11
Weeee!
How often are you re-flattening your water stones?
Every time I flatten a chisel back for sure. If I am just touching up the bevel, maybe even 5 times I sharpen.
Thanks Mike, this seems like a really streamlined process except for maybe the 3.5 hours of back flattening. Would a slow speed belt grinder with a big flat platen do the trick? I've never tried it, just curious
That may work, but would only get so close, there is still going to be a lot of flattening work to do. Mine was an extreme case, but there was some damage, so it's just part of the game.
So question my grandfather taught me with sand paper now im happy with that finish do you agree with this method being good enough or am i miss out
Totally depends on how sharp you need your tools. If you are happy, don't change. If you are looking to get sharper, this method could work for you.
What happens when you sharpen all the way back to the concave part? Doesnt that give you and empty space in the blade?
There are a few different ways of pushing the scoop back. Tapping out is one method, the other is just to polish the back more.
What grit do you start with for flattening the back?
In this case, 220, but the answer is it depends on how much flattening is needed. Also, I don't flatten the back each time I sharpen. That is like once every 15 years.
Are you concerned that there is so little material in front of the scooped out areas of the chisels? Looks like less than 1/8". how many sharpenings would that survive?
That is fixable if it becomes a problem. So I’m not worried about it. Even my gently used Japanese chisels only about an 1/8 or so before the scoop.
Because the backs are hollow, all you have to do is flatten the back again and the area behind the cutting edge will widen again. Sharpened properly and often, a Japanese chisel wil last a lifetime.
@@davidhull2060 Yes, It may take some work, but Japanese chisels will last as long as someone is willing to care for them.
Do you post to the UK, Mike? Your jig is on my 'wouldn't that be nice' list of tools, but noticed that there's no option to change the country in the shipping address.
Yup, send me an email with your shipping address.
@@MikeFarrington If it's just that simple, I hope to be in touch soon. Thanks!
@@Myrkskog Yup, send me an email when you are ready.
Amazing video i wish you showed the edge under the microscope after each stone
I should have done that.
I should be working but this is more interesting
Ha!
So I’m flattening a set of 11 chisels using diamond stones. I can’t figure out if coarse (350) does a faster job as the 1200. But it takes soooo long. What will flatten them faster? I’ve used 180 grit sticky sandpaper on a piece of flat granite.
Also I thought hollow grind was not the best idea for Japanese chisels.
I have found that diamond stones, especially coarse ones, need a little more downward pressure to cut. Give that a try. Yes, flattening is a huge pain, but it is needed. Stick with the 350. Sandpaper with sticky back can work, but it will never be super flat, because the adhesive has some give. So it will need to be finished on a diamond stone. As to hollow grind on a Japanese chisel, probably some wacky internet roomer, I don't think it's a problem.
@ flattening 11 vintage Japanese chisels takes entire Netflix series’s to get through. Like hours.
I’m not understanding the hollow back of Japanese chisels. After successive sharpenings, wouldn’t you be in danger of wearing down the edge bringing it into the hollow?
Yes, however there are a few processes to "push" the hollow back, either with a hammer or just polishing the back.
Hi Mike, question for you. What are the advantages of Japanese chisels over western ones? Or vice versa?
This is a huge question, but the Japanese chisels have a layer of harder steel laminated to a softer layer. The harder lay is very very hard, and therefore gets very sharp. However, they will tend to chip with use making sharpening a little more work. Western, are a little softer, and will dent or bend with use, but sharpen a little easier.
@@MikeFarrington Interesting, but thanks for the insight
Japanese chisels can be flattened with a hammer and anvil before going to the stone
Sort of, the concave can be flattened a little, but that wouldn't stop the need to flatten them during the sharpening process.
Mike, totally not vomitous, not even the sink... you likely didn't get the email - they're supposed to be yukkity. Also, I have no problem with whiteboard stuff because it beats death by PowerPoint. I like this even though I've got a Tormek because at some point, I'll likely end up refurbishing or doing a total 're-set' of a chisel. Tormeks are truly awesome, but not something you use starting from below zero, so to speak.
Suggested song recommendation: "Cuts Like a Knife" by Bryan Adams
Good song recommendation. I was thinking about songs with sharp and I didn't come up with anything.
Have you by any chance been watching videos on the "Mass Spec Everything" channel?
I have not, should I?
@@MikeFarrington No, not especially for anything related to your channel, I just detected a hint of his vocal style creeping in, but I know you like a hint of craziness anyway ...
Damn !
Thank you?
How can we know any of this worked if you didn’t shave a strip of hair off of your forearm?
That is a good question. I actually filmed the shaving scene, then deleted it because it felt too trendy.
If you grind the bevel in your own way and then grind it by hand, the bevel angle will gradually lean back because the soft steel is worn faster than the hard steel and the grinding angle is no longer accurate. This method is only used for solid steel chisels and should not be used for Japanese chisels with 2 layers of hard and soft steel
I disagree, the bevel angle can easily be touched up and adjusted at the bench grinder. Also, cutting angles don't really need to be that accurate. A sharp tool doesn't mind a few degree change in angle.
fab, but they are definitely not sharp as you didn't shave the back of your arm with them... apparently, that's the finishing step
Ha! Funny you mention. I actually recorded that, I cut it out because it felt to trendy.
Mike who?
Yeah, who are we talking about?
Hiya young. Man ... gie is blind in one eye can only from v cheap from ,las edi burgh, sorry need glasses,lol . Any cure
Thank you?
Why can’t you just buy a Tormak
Doesn’t get as sharp as quickly.
Not 🤮 indeed.
Thank you.
Concerning burrs, two words - leather strop. Get one. Much faster and easier than the method your using. And yeah 30K is kinda overkill.
In the video description I share a little about my thoughts on strops. I’m not a fan, but I understand why people like them.