I run a 20 inch bar on my 038 mag with full comp chain and 8 tooth rim sprocket for general use and cutting firewood. I also installed dual bumper spikes and triple port muffler from a 038 mag II. It's a monster of a firewood saw, cuts like a hot knife.
I run the larger spikes on my 046 and my 595 XP and there is more of an advantage to having them than not. If you've ever tried to buck around an odd shaped branch or crotch area you'd be loving them immediately. I live in hardwood logging country and the best densest firewood is the crotches and knots the loggers throw away.
The bigger bumper spikes (that look ridiculous) are nice when you get into some uneven wood around the stump or a fork in the tree. It's annoying when you get into a cut and the shape of the tree prevents the little oem spikes from contacting the bark. Nice video with good explanations. Thanks!
Alan Roach theyre not so much for stability theyre for felling. when youre making youre wedge cuts some angles the inside dogs dont grab cause theyre on the outside.
The rim drive should go on so that the chip ejector holes are to the outside. When installing a circlip look carefully at the inner edges of circlip. On one side the inner edge will be slightly rounded as the punch that made it comes into contact to punch it out. The other side will have a more square or sharper edge as the punch die exits. When installing the clip on the crankshaft put the sharper side out so that it gets a better lock on the groove cut into the crankshaft.
That sounds nice, but my saw have never cranked for me and after being in the repair shop more than five times I still have the same problem. The rope won't come out enough to crank the saw fully. I now have four saws and two of them have been in the shop this past Summer. One of them, the Stihl have been in the repair shop more than five times and having the same results with it not cranking for me. The last one I got was a battery powered Poulan Pro which is working fine for me and I love it.
Heck , if you wanna get rid of any of your troublesome saws for a fair price? Id be glad to take them off your hands. I get chainsaws from people that dont work. And I make them work. Being retired has me going stir crazy . I need projects or Im gonna go crazy.
Why didn't u grease the clutch hub bearing.The Stihl shop here in Australia greases as it is metal on metal.Lithium grease is best.Dont over grease as it will just end up in clutch hub
Hi. Thanks for the comment. Whilst some manufacturers do recommend that The needle bearing on the clutch has lubrication as part of maintenance, many people including myself do not do it because the grease attracts and traps tiny particles which can act as an abrasive on the bearing pivot pin. Needle bearings are very cheap and easy to replace we just treat them as a consumable item.
I’ll stick with a 7 on my old 044. I don’t do much falling anymore and mostly cut cordwood. Not much piney plots here anyway. Mostly beech cherry and maple. The ash is nearly all gone now
First - it's called a clutch drum. Second there is no "witness mark". The clutch drum has a small slot cut out in it. That slot goes over a small steel (Stihl??) rod hidden under the clutch. This rod is attached to the "worm" (gear) and the "worm" is mated to the oil pump gear. So when the clutch drum is spinning, it turns the "worm" which turns the oil pump gear. The faster the RPM, the more bar oil is pumped. IMHO - this is far better a design than a weeping system that meters out bar oil regardless of chain speed. Is it possible to install the clutch drum without the slot over the rod? Yes. But you'd have to force the clutch drum down for the retaining washer and circlip to be installed. That would be a bonehead move.
May be,,, fit some 661,, double dawgs,, then add the roller catcher,,, and remove the original chain-catcher, for a better discharge,, and no build up of debris,, if cross cutting.. then turn the oil pump up.. with a faster cutting sprocket remove deflecters in the oulet port, then duel port the muffler..... Even better so im told!!!
Nice...didn't realize this was possible to change parts on the same saw(s); the physics are simple to understand; rpms increase with a larger "sprocket", decrease with smaller sprocket. Good example in the "bike example". Torque curves change with rpm's of the chain. Nice video. Where have you found, can one buy Stihl parts,....the cheapest please sir? I live in upstate NY. NY parts, at a "parts shop" are ridiculous...due to our cost of living.
you put the bolts for the dogs on backwards. the nut goes inside the case then covered by the plastic piece. and the bolt goes in from the outside ans screws into the nut. thr nut shouldnt be on the outside.
You can visibly see if nuts back out while cutting but the bolts will still be there as there is a buffer locking them in. Use locktite on the nuts and you'll be fine
Yes, like greasing the sprocket needle bearing. There is no bar oil feed to this bearing, if there was your clutch would be soaked with oil and become inoperable. Beware of old wives tales from youtube.
Yes, grease the sprocket needle bearing. There is no bar oil feed to this bearing, if there was your clutch would be soaked with oil and become inoperable. Beware of old wives tales.
These saws especially the big CC saws come with a predetermined ratio and for good reasons. Its best to leave the sprockets alone unless you like overheating your saws is something you are trying to do.
You can notice a difference t theirs videos that show a side by side comparison in the wood. If you have a small saw with no power don’t bother. If you have a monster saw you can try it.
Rpm and speed are not synonymous. Ever see a marching band turn a corner? The tuba guy marches almost in place as he turns while the clarinets on the other end run their asses off to stay in line.
My Stihl 261 broke down after only 3 years of cutting firewood. Stihl said it was my fault because I didnt use the Stihl oil and alcylat gasoline! 026 was a much more robust saw and I had one for allmost 20 years and used shell oil and 95 gas mixed 2%. Not happy with the Stihl 261 and Stihl support.
You never ever grease the clutch bearing. The bar oiler takes care of the clutch bearing's lubrication. Greasing that bearing will screw with the oilers ability to lubricate it and likely end up burning the bearing out after it clogs up with wood powder.
JKC - Yes, grease the sprocket needle bearing. There is no bar oil feed to this bearing, if there was your clutch would be soaked with oil and become inoperable. Beware of old wives tales from youtube.
Bloody hell mate that's dumb I put a husky chain on my 046 goes like a scolded cat up a gum tree Australian timber is like steel FUCKING hard shit on ya mate
Lol Echo chain saws are Home Depot junk with abysmal service life. If they cut the prices in half maybee its worth it on the "pro" models. If you are lucky you will get a full season out of an Echo atm doing tree work.
I run a 20 inch bar on my 038 mag with full comp chain and 8 tooth rim sprocket for general use and cutting firewood. I also installed dual bumper spikes and triple port muffler from a 038 mag II. It's a monster of a firewood saw, cuts like a hot knife.
Tks man I learned 2 new things from ya!
I run the larger spikes on my 046 and my 595 XP and there is more of an advantage to having them than not. If you've ever tried to buck around an odd shaped branch or crotch area you'd be loving them immediately. I live in hardwood logging country and the best densest firewood is the crotches and knots the loggers throw away.
The bigger bumper spikes (that look ridiculous) are nice when you get into some uneven wood around the stump or a fork in the tree. It's annoying when you get into a cut and the shape of the tree prevents the little oem spikes from contacting the bark. Nice video with good explanations. Thanks!
Good info, I like the idea of 2 bumpers for more stability
Alan Roach theyre not so much for stability theyre for felling. when youre making youre wedge cuts some angles the inside dogs dont grab cause theyre on the outside.
hey thanks a bunch for the info.... are those compatible with the same types of chain?
Information was good but plz get some light in your shop.
The rim drive should go on so that the chip ejector holes are to the outside.
When installing a circlip look carefully at the inner edges of circlip. On one side the inner edge will be slightly rounded as the punch that made it comes into contact to punch it out. The other side will have a more square or sharper edge as the punch die exits. When installing the clip on the crankshaft put the sharper side out so that it gets a better lock on the groove cut into the crankshaft.
Name matches
where do we find these and how to know which one for each saw ??
I added dual dogs to my MS 440/044 too, but I think mine are meant for a 661.
A very nice video. Thank you, Sir.
Good video mate.
I have a Stihl MS391 that came with a 20 inch bar so if I wanna go to a 25 inch bar should i put a sprocket with less sides?
On my 661 i use a 7 tooth for 36’’ and longer and 8 tooth for the smaller bars
You'd have too or you'd have too little torque for the big chains
That sounds nice, but my saw have never cranked for me and after being in the repair shop more than five times I still have the same problem. The rope won't come out enough to crank the saw fully. I now have four saws and two of them have been in the shop this past Summer. One of them, the Stihl have been in the repair shop more than five times and having the same results with it not cranking for me. The last one I got was a battery powered Poulan Pro which is working fine for me and I love it.
If you can’t change a starter rope yourself, battery powered is best for you.
Heck , if you wanna get rid of any of your troublesome saws for a fair price? Id be glad to take them off your hands. I get chainsaws from people that dont work. And I make them work. Being retired has me going stir crazy . I need projects or Im gonna go crazy.
Why didn't u grease the clutch hub bearing.The Stihl shop here in Australia greases as it is metal on metal.Lithium grease is best.Dont over grease as it will just end up in clutch hub
Hi. Thanks for the comment. Whilst some manufacturers do recommend that The needle bearing on the clutch has lubrication as part of maintenance, many people including myself do not do it because the grease attracts and traps tiny particles which can act as an abrasive on the bearing pivot pin. Needle bearings are very cheap and easy to replace we just treat them as a consumable item.
I’ll stick with a 7 on my old 044. I don’t do much falling anymore and mostly cut cordwood.
Not much piney plots here anyway. Mostly beech cherry and maple. The ash is nearly all gone now
Graet vid !
Some good info here thanks
First - it's called a clutch drum. Second there is no "witness mark". The clutch drum has a small slot cut out in it. That slot goes over a small steel (Stihl??) rod hidden under the clutch. This rod is attached to the "worm" (gear) and the "worm" is mated to the oil pump gear. So when the clutch drum is spinning, it turns the "worm" which turns the oil pump gear. The faster the RPM, the more bar oil is pumped. IMHO - this is far better a design than a weeping system that meters out bar oil regardless of chain speed. Is it possible to install the clutch drum without the slot over the rod? Yes. But you'd have to force the clutch drum down for the retaining washer and circlip to be installed. That would be a bonehead move.
what power is the scythe 244rx?
Eight tooth sprocket will turn the chain 12.5% faster than a seven. If you saw has nuts you don't need the seven for hardwoods.
only use speed sprockets in soft to medium density wood
I believe he said that 2 or three times.
May be,,, fit some 661,, double dawgs,, then add the roller catcher,,, and remove the original chain-catcher, for a better discharge,, and no build up of debris,, if cross cutting.. then turn the oil pump up.. with a faster cutting sprocket remove deflecters in the oulet port, then duel port the muffler..... Even better so im told!!!
Nice...didn't realize this was possible to change parts on the same saw(s); the physics are simple to understand; rpms increase with a larger "sprocket", decrease with smaller sprocket. Good example in the "bike example". Torque curves change with rpm's of the chain.
Nice video.
Where have you found, can one buy Stihl parts,....the cheapest please sir? I live in upstate NY. NY parts, at a "parts shop" are ridiculous...due to our cost of living.
Great vid man.
you put the bolts for the dogs on backwards. the nut goes inside the case then covered by the plastic piece. and the bolt goes in from the outside ans screws into the nut. thr nut shouldnt be on the outside.
You can visibly see if nuts back out while cutting but the bolts will still be there as there is a buffer locking them in. Use locktite on the nuts and you'll be fine
Great stuff man....info not spelled out in company documentation....
Yes, like greasing the sprocket needle bearing. There is no bar oil feed to this bearing, if there was your clutch would be soaked with oil and become inoperable. Beware of old wives tales from youtube.
Nice video.
Good information...!
" Greece" on the clutch bearing?
Yes, grease the sprocket needle bearing. There is no bar oil feed to this bearing, if there was your clutch would be soaked with oil and become inoperable. Beware of old wives tales.
@@2Mile0 Looking at some of Johns builds, I think he knows theres no oil feed to the bearing
Nah! Saturday nite fever.
Thanks, Never seen this info covered.
Do you notice a difference when you change the sprockets.... big difference, little...????
These saws especially the big CC saws come with a predetermined ratio and for good reasons. Its best to leave the sprockets alone unless you like overheating your saws is something you are trying to do.
You can notice a difference t theirs videos that show a side by side comparison in the wood. If you have a small saw with no power don’t bother. If you have a monster saw you can try it.
FishFind3000 I got a 661 i use an 8 tooth for small bars 25’’ or less
@@rivtool515 You, Sir, are pretty much an ignorant troll....
Coulda went with the 11 tooth in softwood.
I always thought bigger diameter slower rpm, smaller more rpm
On the drive end? That’s silly.
Rpm and speed are not synonymous. Ever see a marching band turn a corner? The tuba guy marches almost in place as he turns while the clarinets on the other end run their asses off to stay in line.
other way around
Thanks man!
My Stihl 261 broke down after only 3 years of cutting firewood. Stihl said it was my fault because I didnt use the Stihl oil and alcylat gasoline! 026 was a much more robust saw and I had one for allmost 20 years and used shell oil and 95 gas mixed 2%. Not happy with the Stihl 261 and Stihl support.
Ola Normann 026 and 066 are the best, bring back that power
I see you saying this all over the place is someone paying you to say this?
Iv had the same 260 as a work saw for 5 years , daily use. 190 psi .. you fucked up
do you ever grease the needle bearing?
You never ever grease the clutch bearing. The bar oiler takes care of the clutch bearing's lubrication. Greasing that bearing will screw with the oilers ability to lubricate it and likely end up burning the bearing out after it clogs up with wood powder.
Yes
RIV` TOOL Where are the oil ports that deliver the oil to the clutch bearing?
JKC - Yes, grease the sprocket needle bearing. There is no bar oil feed to this bearing, if there was your clutch would be soaked with oil and become inoperable. Beware of old wives tales from youtube.
JKC was a stihl dealer for 40 years. We always greased the bearing when we serviced a saw.
Bloody hell mate that's dumb I put a husky chain on my 046 goes like a scolded cat up a gum tree Australian timber is like steel FUCKING hard shit on ya mate
No thanks, I'll just use my clip pliers
tut tut tut tut sniff sniff sniff tut
Bell housing...not sprocket
@@fella704 spur spocket
Best upgrade would be to get an echo
Until you have to start buying parts for that Echo. We have a CS 590 in our line up, great saw but parts are pricey.
Lol Echo chain saws are Home Depot junk with abysmal service life. If they cut the prices in half maybee its worth it on the "pro" models. If you are lucky you will get a full season out of an Echo atm doing tree work.
You sir are silly
till you need to cut something
Lmao....and thats a dead giveaway you dont do any tree work at all. A fire wood guy at most talking about an echo over a stihl...oh boy
I got a better idea, toss that thing in the trash can and get a husky
LegaCy, both are good saw, only fools say toss either one
Well you have no ideas or taste...especially based off of your youtube profile picture. South park is for pedifiles and little dumbass kids
@strange ghost I own both as well and you are correct. The Husky may be faster and the Stihl may have more torque.