Just finished mine last week. Waiting on my new front sight. One thing I did that future readers might want to do also is at the hardware store when buying the sand paper, I found paper that you could peel and stick. I cut the sand paper into circles the same size as the sanding dowel so all I had to do was peel off the back of the sand paper and stick it on the dowel. No putting rubber bands around it or zip ties to hold it down. Worked perfectly.
Made the trip to the range yesterday (7/19) to test out the 16.5" barrel. As you know I was a little apprehensive about function of the bolt after cutting off that much barrel. Well the rifle performed flawlessly. I sighted in at 25yds and once I got the sight adjusted to POA I was able to put 20 rounds inside a 3" bullseye. I was surprised at the recoil as it seemed to be less. Did not "feel" like the recoil was as stout as before with the full length barrel. Very pleased. I going to try and figure out a way to show a picture of the finished product. Not that tech savy at 71 years old lol
Max Hill this is awesome! I'm really glad your turned out well! If you go Facebook type in GunsWithGage you can post pictures on my page! I would love to see them! The sks feels so much better to me with the shorter barrel
You should hold the barrel in the bench vise closer to the cut instead of hanging it out so far. That will produce a cleaner cut and require less effort
Excellent video. You probably already know this but for finding high spots on a surface you are trying to file true colour the surface with steel blue or a sharpie. One stroke with the file will indicate the high spots.
I actually cut the barrel with the pip cutter. Althought i cut in the straight section of the barrel i was surprised it worked. Instead of the brass screw i used brass drawer knobs that are basically balls with threads on one side.
@@zomb1ek1ller5 I machined down my barrel diameter on a lathe, so that the front sight could slide over it. If you can’t do that you might be able to drill out the sight to the larger barrel diameter, or cut up and cut off the front sight and weld or solder it on. The important part is to make sure that it is timed right and not canted. A degree or two off will throw off your point of aim
Do mig welders work on gun steel? What i thaught of was cut the bottom and expand it enuf to fit then once its strait give er a tac or two. I dont care about how it looks i want it to hold
@@zomb1ek1ller5 yes, a mig will work just fine, but you need to be careful about putting to much heat into it. To much heat could slightly worp the barrel and affect its accuracy. Most sights are silver soldered for a better and cleaner job.
Id like to solder it on but nit the greatest at soldering lol.but all i was planing on doing was a tack or twojust in the crack where id cutthe sight along the bottom where the cleaning rod grabs onto. Doesnt look much longer theen a half inch so maybe 2 quick tacks to keep er cool
I get what your trying to do but me myself id rig a drill press some way and you could get a much truer crown on it and id make sure it was a 11 degree crown because id want to keep what accuracy I had before if not better . Great video man .
Thanks! Yessir this is not how I do them in my shop, but just a good home DIY for those without a mill and lathe! You can also get crowning and facing bits that will fit in a hand drill as I'm sure you know.
They make a tool (sold at cnc warrior, brownells etc) that chamfers the barrel with a hand tool to exactly 11°. Research has shown that outside of 22 caliber or extreme accuracy 1000 yard+ demanding high caliber rifles... the 11 degree chamfer isnt really beneficial over a standard crown. I could delve more into why... but then you wouldnt need to watch the super interesting videos.
Great video and cool project. One point however it looks like you leveled the receiver forward to aft while the front site is leveled side to side. To get the receiver level side to side the whole table/vice would need to be leveled.
Great video, very well done and easy to understand and follow. My question is the set screws. Are they just pressured holding the sight to the barrel. Or did you have to make a channel groove in the barrel for them to ride in?
I would maybe use a washer over your wood dowels to true the barrel fave with your drill just to ensure a flat surface. I know it’s not super important but why not just throw a washer over the post/dowel for a face and would work great I would think 😊
Topical battlefield engagement is between 100-200 yards.Those days that you had all the time in the world shooting from trench to trench like you were hunting Buffalo are over.
I thought this method be perfect till I saw your suggestion brother! Do you know of a respectable channel check out on the how To's of your suggestion by chance.. Ty for your time and consideration
Make sure to have your barrel OVER 16” long. Even an 1/8 of an inch. Unless you got your stamp back for an SBR. It has to be OVER 16” long to be “not easily concealable”. Stupid laws especially with AR and AK pistols these days but thats our FREE country.
Drilling? I assume you mean where hes using the brass screw? Yes thats absolutely neccessary. Thats your barrel crown. One of the more important points of accuracy. You want the gasses exiting behind your bullet to exist evenly amd uniformly all around the bullet. So... to accomplish this you are going to want to get absolutely as close as possible to 90° cut on the muzzle face/end of the barrel (hence the grinding/sanding processes he used) and then you want to use the brass screw or a brass finial (both available at hardware store) and grinding compound to make a "crown" and as screw heads or ball finials are round... against a smaller round hole... you get a nice uniform even crown to let gasses escape evenly for the most accuracy. If you dont crown or your muzzle face isnt 90° youre gonna get bullets nosediving or keyholing or going way off target. The whole job takes about an hour at most and the extra steps are absolutely worthwhile.
Not to worried about it being perfect to just put a crown on and shoot...but I want a good square shoulder so I can figure out how to get an end 1/2 in long and a 1/2 inch in diameter so I can put on a 1/2 × 28 thread eventually
Quick question...does anybody know any other method besides a front sight too to adjust the front sights windage and elevation,,i dont have a tool not yet anyway
Was wondering if after you completed the project, you experienced any cycling issues with the shorter barrel? I have seen on some of the forums that cutting that much length of the barrel required a larger gas port and even one forum suggested taking a couple of coils off the recoil spring.
I often see where most AK barrels in 7.62 x 39mm have an 11 degree crown from the factory. But, it appears you're putting on something other than an 11 degree crown using the brass screw method. Does that seem to effect function, gassing, or accuracy in any way?
Boy Watch if you cut off the barrel behind the sight block on a yugo sks, you will lose a total of 1.64 lbs off the front of your rifle. This will get rid of the bayonet sight and all the grenade launching equipment.
i don't know about guns but from a CNC work side i would say because brass is not hard ! if you use something that is hard the finish will not be smooth and it could even not be symmetrical , using stainless could take small chunks of material off and if that happen you would have to cut the barrel again ( cut away millimeters ) and do everything from the start !
Thanks for the video. I'm having to do this due to severe corrosion. I may be able to salvage the sight. You mentioned the site you have is no longer available. Do you have a suggestion as to an alternate sight? I am planning to cut just in front of the sight first to see if this will clean up my problem. The eBay link to the sight is broken.
The good new is, Bullet button just started making the sights again!! the old company Prince50, was located in Cali, and so is the new company, I have not tried the new one, but it looks of good quality online.
Your rifle turned out well. I like it a lot. I'm working up to doing something similar. Can you tell me if this was a chrome lined barrel you cut? Thanks!
So at 14:00 when sanding the barrel face, when you get grit coming off the sandpaper, which unavoidably ends up in the barrel, and you have a wooden dowel spinning inside the barrel, doesn't that screw up the lands and rifling inside the barrel?
Dude i gotta ask u ,,i was told if i were to cut my sks barrel by 4in leaving approx 16 in barrel,,I was told the sks would has isseues because the gas block is rated for the 20 inch barrel it was manufactured for,,cutting the barrel though doesn't bother the gas block but the weapon cycling system is adjusted by barrel size length with the gas blaocm system for the longer barrel,,stated the paratrooper is the shorter sks 16 inch barrel gas block is rated to cycle for thatbsrrel length..what I wanna ask you though its been 6 yrs or more do u recall having issues when you cut your barrel did it display issues,,I'm guessing not but not only a individual told me this he works at a weapons machine shop so i perceived he knows this stuff like the back of his hands,,i also read online about sks and cutting the barrel where again some questioned what the particular barrel length the gas block system is rated to function by that length...what can u tell me
The pressure issue for cycling youre thinking of is gas dwell time behind the bullet. It will shorten the dwell time and cycle the bolt slightly lighter. But the commy piston systems 1st off are basically always overgassed and 2nd the loss of 4" is not enough to cause malfunctions on battle rifles. On a precision timed and tuned gun maybe... but on a gun mean to be fired from under a swamp... nyet.... rifle is fine. If anything the slightly lighter push of the piston system will result in a slightly lighter recoil. And with the shortened barrel with threads (like he does in next video) you can always add a muzzle brake which further dampens recoil and most muzzle brakes will also very slightly increase back pressure/dwell time which would probably fix the issue if there ever was one... Which is doubtful to begin with. So basically... in theory youre right. But in practice its simply not an issue. A lot of sks owners have cut the barrel all the way to the gas block then threded the barrel and made it an SBR or added an elongated flash hider permanently (for an overall16") and so far ive seen zero feedback including this issue. It just doesnt happen. And smoothing up the bolt and rails in the reciever should free up any hangups that would cause a slowed bolt carrier too. So if your rifles maintained properly the issue is non-existant.
@@BushmasterRaZ and you know you have a point...as im told chinese when back then they were doing the huge trade thingy shipping sks all over the place especially to us,,they made personal models which one if not the only was the paratrooper to what im told catch the eye shorter more easier to manage i think ive rad they didnt i understand create another model just for this all they did was shorten the barrel by the 3.5 inches of the regular sized sks which they had tons to accomodate all this creating New models or variations of sks not remanufactured but simply modifying what they has which was only the sks made one way with the 20 inch barrel cutting it leaving either i think the 16.5 inch barrel and reinstalled the front sight and shortened the bayonet knife or pig sticker literally by jus cutting thm shorter as well,,, all this was what i think i read about some of the history of the paratrooper,,,was again no remaking of the sks all they did was literally cut the barrel shorter and made the rest shorter because the barrell was shorter, notice stock still the same for paratrooper and 20 inch reg sks models plus the gas block wasnt affected because i think it was only 3.5 inches cut off..or something like this...this inquiry was something i heard tossed around once but not alot at all infact just as you stated,,all whove taken the plundge to cut theres to the 16.5 have reported zero problem and like you stated i would think its not enough to affect the operation in any sorta way...i wanna cut it but second thought nope ill leave it alone i got this arch angel mand it looks amazing plus and i wont ever do this but lots say if you ever wanna sell it returning it to factory specs the 20 inch in wood,,but again smile I wont this lil buggar is home forgood in arch angel or wood smile
@@GunsWithGage How about the barrel of marlin XT.22cal? I have plan to buy Marlin XT .22cal and I want to cut it from 22" to 18", do you think the inner diameter of barrel will be the same after cutting?
Out of sheer curiosity, couldn’t you use a universal countersink to crown the barrel instead of a brass screw? Or would that damage the barrel? (I’m very very new to gun smithing)
You only really need two if youre occilatong the screw on the hole. The 3rd is kinda a "just in case" backup thats worth getting because at ace hardware these brass screws are like 50c and can save you the trip and headache. Really the grinding compound is doing the bulk of the work. The screw is just a drill chuckable medium to deliver the grinding compound with the ability to add pressure while turning.
I did it to my SKS Yugo to get rid of the stupid grenade launcher and It won't cycle. I just got a better gas valve and pray it solves the problem. Otherwise it's just gonna be a barely functioning bolt action that I'll give to someone begging for a gun to use if TSHTF
The opening is the same size. Its sort of an optical illusion. What youre actually seeing is the natural end of the barrel having a larger deeper crown and less barrel material all around the bore (hole) as the sks and ak47 and basically all rifles are thicker toward the reciever and slowly taper down thinner as it reaches the muzzle end of the barrel. So when he cut it... the barrel actually is much thicker 4 inches back. Making the hole look smaller by comparison. And the deeper crown simply lends itself to shadow better and thus makes the hole look bigger. So yeah optical illusion. The bore (barrel opening/hole) is even all the way from the chamber where the bullet waits to be fired all the way down the barrel to the crown where the fired bullet and gasses exit.
How would it be done to a chrome lined barrel of the ps90 to prevent flaking ? And would it alter its accuracy or as long as its done properly and carefully it shouldnt matter?
It shouldn't hurt the chrome lining at all. Do you know what the OD of the barrel is on it? As long as the barrel is properly crowned, the accuracy would probably be better than the factory crown. I use machine tools normally. This video was just to show people how to do it by hand at home
Knuckle_Bump You just have to get lucky and find one used somewhere. :( I have one more kit new in the package if you are interested, contact me on the Facebook page gunswithgage
No alignment tools and no measurements make me uncomfortable with this upgrade, sorry, however you like that “nice crown” which would be a matter of opinion if tested thoroughly.
You’ll be just fine shooting it. All the threading does is allow a compensator/flash hider on the front. It will just be loud for the person down range lol.
WoneMore Thought Ideally it should be soldered or pinned. This way of attaching the sight isn't as sturdy as it needs to be for military use. For what you or I will do with it, it's 100% ok.
Just finished mine last week. Waiting on my new front sight. One thing I did that future readers might want to do also is at the hardware store when buying the sand paper, I found paper that you could peel and stick. I cut the sand paper into circles the same size as the sanding dowel so all I had to do was peel off the back of the sand paper and stick it on the dowel. No putting rubber bands around it or zip ties to hold it down. Worked perfectly.
Max Hill awesome idea on the sand paper!! That would make my tool work much better. I'm going to try that for sure!! Pinning this comment to the top
One question. Have you had any function issues with the shorter barrel?
Max Hill no issues at all.
Made the trip to the range yesterday (7/19) to test out the 16.5" barrel. As you know I was a little apprehensive about function of the bolt after cutting off that much barrel. Well the rifle performed flawlessly. I sighted in at 25yds and once I got the sight adjusted to POA I was able to put 20 rounds inside a 3" bullseye. I was surprised at the recoil as it seemed to be less. Did not "feel" like the recoil was as stout as before with the full length barrel. Very pleased. I going to try and figure out a way to show a picture of the finished product. Not that tech savy at 71 years old lol
Max Hill this is awesome! I'm really glad your turned out well! If you go Facebook type in GunsWithGage you can post pictures on my page! I would love to see them! The sks feels so much better to me with the shorter barrel
Hands down the best cut and recrown video on youtube. Thank you!!
Steel wool does a great job of buffing the barrel at the cut, looks good afterwards as well.
You should hold the barrel in the bench vise closer to the cut instead of hanging it out so far. That will produce a cleaner cut and require less effort
Absolutely! I was baffled when I saw how much overhang he had . That would piss me off so much cutting with my piece wobbling like that
A true DIYer if I ever saw one! Great video.
Happy I stumble on his video. I was about to get a metal lathe. Great job , ThankU !!!
Excellent video. You probably already know this but for finding high spots on a surface you are trying to file true colour the surface with steel blue or a sharpie. One stroke with the file will indicate the high spots.
bob dole Thanks for comment Bob! You are right about that
GunsWithGage once again dude you did a really nice job there in your work and the video!
Turns out that the screw fits perfectly into the sks bore guide and makes a more uniform crown
I actually cut the barrel with the pip cutter. Althought i cut in the straight section of the barrel i was surprised it worked. Instead of the brass screw i used brass drawer knobs that are basically balls with threads on one side.
I did mine 20 years ago. I was able to do some modifications to reuse the front sight.
Hey what did you do to reuse the front sight?? I too would like to do that.
@@zomb1ek1ller5 I machined down my barrel diameter on a lathe, so that the front sight could slide over it. If you can’t do that you might be able to drill out the sight to the larger barrel diameter, or cut up and cut off the front sight and weld or solder it on. The important part is to make sure that it is timed right and not canted. A degree or two off will throw off your point of aim
Do mig welders work on gun steel? What i thaught of was cut the bottom and expand it enuf to fit then once its strait give er a tac or two. I dont care about how it looks i want it to hold
@@zomb1ek1ller5 yes, a mig will work just fine, but you need to be careful about putting to much heat into it. To much heat could slightly worp the barrel and affect its accuracy. Most sights are silver soldered for a better and cleaner job.
Id like to solder it on but nit the greatest at soldering lol.but all i was planing on doing was a tack or twojust in the crack where id cutthe sight along the bottom where the cleaning rod grabs onto. Doesnt look much longer theen a half inch so maybe 2 quick tacks to keep er cool
Thank you for the video. Handy tips for us Bubbas :)
I don’t blame you for leaving on the top gas piston cover. I nearly broke mine trying to replace it.
How ? It is very easy to take it off and put it back on . Atleast on the two sks's I've disassembled
Rename the video to "sks" circumcision
A bris! Muzzle tov.
I get what your trying to do but me myself id rig a drill press some way and you could get a much truer crown on it and id make sure it was a 11 degree crown because id want to keep what accuracy I had before if not better . Great video man .
Thanks! Yessir this is not how I do them in my shop, but just a good home DIY for those without a mill and lathe! You can also get crowning and facing bits that will fit in a hand drill as I'm sure you know.
They make a tool (sold at cnc warrior, brownells etc) that chamfers the barrel with a hand tool to exactly 11°. Research has shown that outside of 22 caliber or extreme accuracy 1000 yard+ demanding high caliber rifles... the 11 degree chamfer isnt really beneficial over a standard crown.
I could delve more into why... but then you wouldnt need to watch the super interesting videos.
Wow, you made it look easy! Great job, and thanks!
Great video and cool project. One point however it looks like you leveled the receiver forward to aft while the front site is leveled side to side. To get the receiver level side to side the whole table/vice would need to be leveled.
This is true. For what the gun will be used for, it won't make a difference. The sight adjustment was able to compensate. Thank you for the comment!
Lol! I chopped my barrel with a Lowe’s pipe cutter, worked great and a clean even cut, but the barrel Was not tapered in that area
Haha wow nice!!
Great video, very well done and easy to understand and follow. My question is the set screws. Are they just pressured holding the sight to the barrel. Or did you have to make a channel groove in the barrel for them to ride in?
I would maybe use a washer over your wood dowels to true the barrel fave with your drill just to ensure a flat surface.
I know it’s not super important but why not just throw a washer over the post/dowel for a face and would work great I would think 😊
He says he's done it both ways haha;] great vid man
AWESOME Video!!!!! I do have a Questions and please forgive my ignorance for asking this but why are you using Lighter Fluid as your Cutting Oil?
amazing great video...i think i wanna cut mine as short as possible, like he said 200yards is more than enough.
Thanks!!! They feel SO much better when they are shorter
Topical battlefield engagement is between 100-200 yards.Those days that you had all the time in the world shooting from trench to trench like you were hunting Buffalo are over.
@@marckcarbonelloifveteran410 more like 300 yards. Guys tend to pop shots off at targets as soon as they are visible ( barely ).
Dude this is awesome! I think i might do mine now! lol
Like the vid. Would be nice if you made a follow up showing shooting the shortened rifle hint hint.
should cut it down another 1.5" and get a gasblock front sight and pin and weld a ak74 break on it
I thought this method be perfect till I saw your suggestion brother!
Do you know of a respectable channel check out on the how To's of your suggestion by chance..
Ty for your time and consideration
Awesome!!!!! I have a yugo sks im going to do that to. Its to dang long!!!! (She said!) hahaha!!!!
Make sure to have your barrel OVER 16” long. Even an 1/8 of an inch. Unless you got your stamp back for an SBR. It has to be OVER 16” long to be “not easily concealable”. Stupid laws especially with AR and AK pistols these days but thats our FREE country.
I believe you can also weld on muzzle breaks to make your rifle leagal if your barrel length is cut too short
Do I have to do all that extra drilling if I'm going to put a muzzle break on it?
Drilling? I assume you mean where hes using the brass screw?
Yes thats absolutely neccessary.
Thats your barrel crown. One of the more important points of accuracy. You want the gasses exiting behind your bullet to exist evenly amd uniformly all around the bullet.
So... to accomplish this you are going to want to get absolutely as close as possible to 90° cut on the muzzle face/end of the barrel (hence the grinding/sanding processes he used) and then you want to use the brass screw or a brass finial (both available at hardware store) and grinding compound to make a "crown" and as screw heads or ball finials are round... against a smaller round hole... you get a nice uniform even crown to let gasses escape evenly for the most accuracy. If you dont crown or your muzzle face isnt 90° youre gonna get bullets nosediving or keyholing or going way off target.
The whole job takes about an hour at most and the extra steps are absolutely worthwhile.
Not to worried about it being perfect to just put a crown on and shoot...but I want a good square shoulder so I can figure out how to get an end 1/2 in long and a 1/2 inch in diameter so I can put on a 1/2 × 28 thread eventually
Ivan’s very proud
Quick question...does anybody know any other method besides a front sight too to adjust the front sights windage and elevation,,i dont have a tool not yet anyway
Please get a Lennox Hacksaw Frame. You will never regret it.
Baron Stephen von Bach-Paraski or Dewalt
The SKS paratrooper. My dad paid $20 more to get a new one back in the day. His friends all bought the regular length barrel for $49.
I want do this in a gew 98 to convert to k98 i have to cut the wood and the barrel
Thanks for sharing
Underrated vid fr
it’s mounted in the back above the action
ahmed elkhatib is it mounted on the dust cover, or to the receiver
Well im not cutting my barrel but recrowning mine it came with bad crowning
Anyone know the size of the screw?
Was wondering if after you completed the project, you experienced any cycling issues with the shorter barrel? I have seen on some of the forums that cutting that much length of the barrel required a larger gas port and even one forum suggested taking a couple of coils off the recoil spring.
Rebecca Crouse nope not single issue. These guns are over gassed in my opinion anyway. Chop it off! You will be glad that you did
Dude some people drill out the gas relief ports on the gas tube to reduce the recoil.
You can cut down the barrel but you cant get that little pin out of your gas tube cover. Hehe. Cool video.
If worse comes to worst just drill out that pin and cut a replacement
Try this on my single shot 22. Just recrown only.
Perfect!
add oil to the saw blade
I’m new but why not just use a counter sink to crown the barrel
Nice job!
Bilge Pump thank you sir!
I often see where most AK barrels in 7.62 x 39mm have an 11 degree crown from the factory. But, it appears you're putting on something other than an 11 degree crown using the brass screw method. Does that seem to effect function, gassing, or accuracy in any way?
Loved the video. I was just wondering if you have found any muzzle brakes that will fit on a shortened barrel? So far I have been unable to.
Yes! Cnc warrior had a great selection
Dude what stock do u have the sks installed in ,,,thats the look i want
your video is very good i can doit now,
Boy Watch if you cut off the barrel behind the sight block on a yugo sks, you will lose a total of 1.64 lbs off the front of your rifle. This will get rid of the bayonet sight and all the grenade launching equipment.
Why brass screw instead of something harder like stainless? Curious
i don't know about guns but from a CNC work side i would say because brass is not hard !
if you use something that is hard the finish will not be smooth and it could even not be symmetrical , using stainless could take small chunks of material off and if that happen you would have to cut the barrel again ( cut away millimeters ) and do everything from the start !
No problems with cycling after? Did you have to drill out the hole in the gas tube to allow more gas into the tube to push the bolt back?
Jason Antonation I did not alter the gas system at all. Only the front sight.
How that front sight holding up thinking about ordering one! I just picked up a sks an that barrel needs a little taken off the end
looks good! How did it group before/after?
good video!
Just the question where I can buy this wooden block for the facing barrel?
man as fast as you where going ..I figured you would be done faster
I know this is a old post, what front sight is that and where did you acquire it. Great job also.
Thanks for the video.
I'm having to do this due to severe corrosion. I may be able to salvage the sight. You mentioned the site you have is no longer available. Do you have a suggestion as to an alternate sight?
I am planning to cut just in front of the sight first to see if this will clean up my problem. The eBay link to the sight is broken.
The good new is, Bullet button just started making the sights again!! the old company Prince50, was located in Cali, and so is the new company, I have not tried the new one, but it looks of good quality online.
@@GunsWithGage
Thanks! I hope I don't have to take the barrel back enough to need a new sight though. But now I have options.
I think I'm gonna use a portable bandsaw.
Adam Perdue definitely a good way to go! I have been wanting to get one of those tools myself. I use one at work and I LOVE it.
Grinder with a cut-off wheel would have taken 30 seconds and as long as your careful a nice clean cut.
Did u ever have cycling issues?
Can you do this too a Ak?
Your rifle turned out well. I like it a lot. I'm working up to doing something similar.
Can you tell me if this was a chrome lined barrel you cut?
Thanks!
So at 14:00 when sanding the barrel face, when you get grit coming off the sandpaper, which unavoidably ends up in the barrel, and you have a wooden dowel spinning inside the barrel, doesn't that screw up the lands and rifling inside the barrel?
Is it possible to re use the front sight? You would have to hack off the bayo lug area. How do they stake them on? Possible to re do at home?
Great vidoe one Question I have would you happen to still have that front sight you cut off I need one to replace on my rifle thank you
I think I might. Send me an email clementscustomfirearms@gmail.com
Why didn’t you reuse the old front sight?
Larger barrel diameter.
Dude i gotta ask u ,,i was told if i were to cut my sks barrel by 4in leaving approx 16 in barrel,,I was told the sks would has isseues because the gas block is rated for the 20 inch barrel it was manufactured for,,cutting the barrel though doesn't bother the gas block but the weapon cycling system is adjusted by barrel size length with the gas blaocm system for the longer barrel,,stated the paratrooper is the shorter sks 16 inch barrel gas block is rated to cycle for thatbsrrel length..what I wanna ask you though its been 6 yrs or more do u recall having issues when you cut your barrel did it display issues,,I'm guessing not but not only a individual told me this he works at a weapons machine shop so i perceived he knows this stuff like the back of his hands,,i also read online about sks and cutting the barrel where again some questioned what the particular barrel length the gas block system is rated to function by that length...what can u tell me
The pressure issue for cycling youre thinking of is gas dwell time behind the bullet. It will shorten the dwell time and cycle the bolt slightly lighter. But the commy piston systems 1st off are basically always overgassed and 2nd the loss of 4" is not enough to cause malfunctions on battle rifles. On a precision timed and tuned gun maybe... but on a gun mean to be fired from under a swamp... nyet.... rifle is fine.
If anything the slightly lighter push of the piston system will result in a slightly lighter recoil. And with the shortened barrel with threads (like he does in next video) you can always add a muzzle brake which further dampens recoil and most muzzle brakes will also very slightly increase back pressure/dwell time which would probably fix the issue if there ever was one... Which is doubtful to begin with.
So basically... in theory youre right. But in practice its simply not an issue. A lot of sks owners have cut the barrel all the way to the gas block then threded the barrel and made it an SBR or added an elongated flash hider permanently (for an overall16") and so far ive seen zero feedback including this issue.
It just doesnt happen. And smoothing up the bolt and rails in the reciever should free up any hangups that would cause a slowed bolt carrier too.
So if your rifles maintained properly the issue is non-existant.
@@BushmasterRaZ and you know you have a point...as im told chinese when back then they were doing the huge trade thingy shipping sks all over the place especially to us,,they made personal models which one if not the only was the paratrooper to what im told catch the eye shorter more easier to manage i think ive rad they didnt i understand create another model just for this all they did was shorten the barrel by the 3.5 inches of the regular sized sks which they had tons to accomodate all this creating New models or variations of sks not remanufactured but simply modifying what they has which was only the sks made one way with the 20 inch barrel cutting it leaving either i think the 16.5 inch barrel and reinstalled the front sight and shortened the bayonet knife or pig sticker literally by jus cutting thm shorter as well,,, all this was what i think i read about some of the history of the paratrooper,,,was again no remaking of the sks all they did was literally cut the barrel shorter and made the rest shorter because the barrell was shorter, notice stock still the same for paratrooper and 20 inch reg sks models plus the gas block wasnt affected because i think it was only 3.5 inches cut off..or something like this...this inquiry was something i heard tossed around once but not alot at all infact just as you stated,,all whove taken the plundge to cut theres to the 16.5 have reported zero problem and like you stated i would think its not enough to affect the operation in any sorta way...i wanna cut it but second thought nope ill leave it alone i got this arch angel mand it looks amazing plus and i wont ever do this but lots say if you ever wanna sell it returning it to factory specs the 20 inch in wood,,but again smile I wont this lil buggar is home forgood in arch angel or wood smile
Could you cut the gas tube and piston and go shorter making an SBR?
I may have missed it...Where did you get the replacement front sight? I have mine cut down but not rethreaded...
Vic oh man, they don't make them anymore. I have a new kit laying around. They are stupid rare. Message me on Facebook
I got question are you able to take off the stock on this I wanna get this tomorrow but I wanted to know if I’m able to take the stock off
Is the inner diameter of original muzzle ( before cut) is same of the inner diameter of new muzzle (after cut)? Please let me know.
Yes it is
@@GunsWithGage How about the barrel of marlin XT.22cal? I have plan to buy Marlin XT .22cal and I want to cut it from 22" to 18", do you think the inner diameter of barrel will be the same after cutting?
@@eozutf605 the inner diameter of any barrel will never change if you shorten if
@@GunsWithGage Thank you.
i have sks tactical ati i wanna install archangel stock i also have a scope on it if change the stock will it affect the scope sighting
ahmed elkhatib it shouldn't, where is the scope mounted?
Out of sheer curiosity, couldn’t you use a universal countersink to crown the barrel instead of a brass screw? Or would that damage the barrel? (I’m very very new to gun smithing)
Were can U get those or how can you make those facing jigs????
Do you know how much that 4" barrel piece weighed after cutting?
Sam Luchterhand that's a good question. I think I still have that part. I'll weigh it if I can find it
Im assuming this barrel can still be threaded after shortening? And still in Dallas area if I would like some service? Thanks!
What is the size of the screw?
Does your SKS have a chromed lined barrel? Three machine brass screws is a lot
You only really need two if youre occilatong the screw on the hole. The 3rd is kinda a "just in case" backup thats worth getting because at ace hardware these brass screws are like 50c and can save you the trip and headache.
Really the grinding compound is doing the bulk of the work. The screw is just a drill chuckable medium to deliver the grinding compound with the ability to add pressure while turning.
Beautiful job btw I think I might keep my good eye out for another SKS so I can chop it. Am i able to make a 45 degree cut like an AK, on a SKS 🤔
Did u put the drill on reverse to crown or forward???
Is this legal to do im wanting a shorty like a sks draco kinda deal i have a sks with folding stock ( new furniture ) but i want it shorter
I did it to my SKS Yugo to get rid of the stupid grenade launcher and It won't cycle. I just got a better gas valve and pray it solves the problem. Otherwise it's just gonna be a barely functioning bolt action that I'll give to someone begging for a gun to use if TSHTF
Oh no, how much did you cut off? I wonder if the yugo has a smaller gas port
Where did you get the front sight?
What about the dwell time of the barrel?
Will that front sight work for my mosin nagant?
The muzzle opening on the cut barrel is smaller than the original opening. Does this make alot of difference as far as recoil & accuracy?
The opening is the same size. Its sort of an optical illusion. What youre actually seeing is the natural end of the barrel having a larger deeper crown and less barrel material all around the bore (hole) as the sks and ak47 and basically all rifles are thicker toward the reciever and slowly taper down thinner as it reaches the muzzle end of the barrel. So when he cut it... the barrel actually is much thicker 4 inches back. Making the hole look smaller by comparison. And the deeper crown simply lends itself to shadow better and thus makes the hole look bigger.
So yeah optical illusion. The bore (barrel opening/hole) is even all the way from the chamber where the bullet waits to be fired all the way down the barrel to the crown where the fired bullet and gasses exit.
Were did you get the front sight ?
Would you reccomend doing this to a ps90 barrel from 16inches to shorter as long as you have all the proper tools and knowledge ay your disposal?
Daniel Sanchez oh of course!
How would it be done to a chrome lined barrel of the ps90 to prevent flaking ? And would it alter its accuracy or as long as its done properly and carefully it shouldnt matter?
*flaking of the chrome lined barrel
It shouldn't hurt the chrome lining at all. Do you know what the OD of the barrel is on it? As long as the barrel is properly crowned, the accuracy would probably be better than the factory crown. I use machine tools normally. This video was just to show people how to do it by hand at home
GunsWithGage very cool thank you for the info sir
If I do this can I still add a muzzle break ?
Once u cut the barrel did it function any different I was told it changes the gas regulations of it and causes malfunction
Yeah its nots suppossed to be cut under a certain lenght like 15 iinches or something , i forget , but it is true about it.
If you say that Bullet Button went out of business, where do you suggest we acquire a front sight from?
Knuckle_Bump You just have to get lucky and find one used somewhere. :( I have one more kit new in the package if you are interested, contact me on the Facebook page gunswithgage
www.bulletbutton.com/product-p/skspfs.htm
GunsWithGage how much
Cheaper than dirt.com...
Did your barrel have a liner in it?
Is it a steel barrel?,or iron barrel?.
No alignment tools and no measurements make me uncomfortable with this upgrade, sorry, however you like that “nice crown” which would be a matter of opinion if tested thoroughly.
Where to buy that front sight?
Still make it, just named differently:
www.bulletbutton.com/product-p/skspfs.htm
Is threading the barrel necessary or would I be able to shoot my sks straight after crowing the barrel
You’ll be just fine shooting it. All the threading does is allow a compensator/flash hider on the front. It will just be loud for the person down range lol.
What kinda of accuracy did you have before this mod and what kind did you achieve after?
WoneMore Thought I never noticed a difference!
Do you plan on soldering that sight permanently to the barrel, figuring a way of pinning it, or are you confident enough that it won’t move?
WoneMore Thought Ideally it should be soldered or pinned. This way of attaching the sight isn't as sturdy as it needs to be for military use. For what you or I will do with it, it's 100% ok.
what is the wood part tool’s name?
Dude you forgot to thread it.
that's in the next video!