In my area I run across a lot people selling just the empty block. Are there any tips or advice you can give on what to look for when buying a block from some random person? Because finding a decent B16 or B18C or B18b engines are becoming harder and harder. So I figured from what I've seen I can buy a block and build it fresh from the ground up cheaper than I can a used long block.. Thanks for the info and advice.
Hmm bare block? If it’s bare u can bring a set of piston rings (they’re cheap enough) and if they say stock bore? Bring stock bore rings and u can check ring gap easy Atleast that can give hint I mean it won’t show if bore is perfectly round but atleast u would know if the gap is too big = bore is worn out Other than that , disassembly might be needed so seller might not agree 🤣
@SRDmotorsports OK. Thanks for the advice. What about a bare block without the head or oil pan? Because I have ran across quite a few disassembled blocks also.
@SRDmotorsports I think I'm worried about running across a block that's cracked where you can't see it. I know you can see cylinder wall scratching no problem. Would there be anything else to look for like cracks in the block or stuff that will make it a bad block and not worth the time and money? Again I appreciate your help and time.
Nah if it’s cracked there’d be signs like inconsistent hone finish etc etc even the deck u can see if it blew a gasket or not they can clean it but the discoloration from heat can only be machined away
Cheers! Great info! Just want to inquire too, Coilovers cause the rear top hat to be worn out? Is that normal or does it have anything to do with the installation?
Worn out = that portion there is an oem replacement so most likely if it was running coilover before it might have “worn” to the coilover pattern Easy to change I believe it’s less than $30 each too
Oh snap! Quick reaction time 😂 “pro” class but yeah in all seriousness will prolly make a vid of it or include portions of it on the new upcoming series ftw
There are certain cars (SiRs and ITRs) out there that have been smashed from the rear and some also have turned turtle and the people selling these are asking a pretty penny for these without telling the buyer of the accident history. Yes it's shiny but the chassis' crooked
Yes indeed and I figured the body/chassis etc they know they should study even if online photos so that when they check the actual car they know what’s up… Truth be told the “stuff” I mentioned on the video? Are stuff I had to “find” cuz a customer recently bought a supposed good running well tuned car 😂🤣😂 a Vti with B16a, an SiR and a few EGs looool
That’s doesn’t include a “once famous” ek hatch that isn’t just front cut and rear cut (half cut scheme) But even Roof so the unibody is a 3pc Lmfaooooo “fresh lodi” doe lol
@@SRDmotorsports I had a friend buy an EG that had cardboard as its carb gasket, the steering rack is from a Corolla and the smoked taillights were stock units with stockings inside 🤣
SRDMotorsports TV thank u so much for the car buying tips! il keep this in mind while looking for a used car 😊
Yes sir yes sir
good tips man
For sure! I think it’s kinda universal too even on diff car brands similar things can be checked to be certain so def it should help
In my area I run across a lot people selling just the empty block. Are there any tips or advice you can give on what to look for when buying a block from some random person? Because finding a decent B16 or B18C or B18b engines are becoming harder and harder. So I figured from what I've seen I can buy a block and build it fresh from the ground up cheaper than I can a used long block.. Thanks for the info and advice.
Hmm bare block? If it’s bare u can bring a set of piston rings (they’re cheap enough) and if they say stock bore? Bring stock bore rings and u can check ring gap easy
Atleast that can give hint I mean it won’t show if bore is perfectly round but atleast u would know if the gap is too big = bore is worn out
Other than that , disassembly might be needed so seller might not agree 🤣
@SRDmotorsports OK. Thanks for the advice. What about a bare block without the head or oil pan? Because I have ran across quite a few disassembled blocks also.
@@shanesmith8442 bare block simple if he says stock bore b16 or b18 ? Bring a piston (just 1 ) and a set of rings to check :)
@SRDmotorsports I think I'm worried about running across a block that's cracked where you can't see it. I know you can see cylinder wall scratching no problem. Would there be anything else to look for like cracks in the block or stuff that will make it a bad block and not worth the time and money? Again I appreciate your help and time.
Nah if it’s cracked there’d be signs like inconsistent hone finish etc etc even the deck u can see if it blew a gasket or not they can clean it but the discoloration from heat can only be machined away
Cheers! Great info!
Just want to inquire too, Coilovers cause the rear top hat to be worn out? Is that normal or does it have anything to do with the installation?
Worn out = that portion there is an oem replacement so most likely if it was running coilover before it might have “worn” to the coilover pattern
Easy to change I believe it’s less than $30 each too
@@SRDmotorsports thanks for the clarification 👍 cheers mate.
@@projecthikaribyrhg pretty sure this video would also help you diognose a lot of stuff on the project which is cool and good! Ftw!
@@SRDmotorsports Yes! Yes! Working on my project daily. Resolving issues here and there before we send it for paint. cheers! Thanks
@@projecthikaribyrhg very nice and very good prior to paint ftw!
big help!!!
Thank you and I’m super glad! Let’s hope others can spread this or share it all over fb this way it’s kryptonite to “buy n sell” ninjas lol
Waiting for the grounding kit
Oh snap! Quick reaction time 😂 “pro” class but yeah in all seriousness will prolly make a vid of it or include portions of it on the new upcoming series ftw
@@SRDmotorsports not pro class.. expert class only.. hahaha
@@BenjieCoB20VTEC okay fair enough hahahaha we’ll Sabagay both have a perfect 0.500 reaction limit lol
There are certain cars (SiRs and ITRs) out there that have been smashed from the rear and some also have turned turtle and the people selling these are asking a pretty penny for these without telling the buyer of the accident history. Yes it's shiny but the chassis' crooked
Yes indeed and I figured the body/chassis etc they know they should study even if online photos so that when they check the actual car they know what’s up…
Truth be told the “stuff” I mentioned on the video? Are stuff I had to “find” cuz a customer recently bought a supposed good running well tuned car 😂🤣😂 a Vti with B16a, an SiR and a few EGs looool
That’s doesn’t include a “once famous” ek hatch that isn’t just front cut and rear cut (half cut scheme)
But even Roof so the unibody is a 3pc Lmfaooooo “fresh lodi” doe lol
@@SRDmotorsports I had a friend buy an EG that had cardboard as its carb gasket, the steering rack is from a Corolla and the smoked taillights were stock units with stockings inside 🤣
@@SRDmotorsports Hahaha, if the 3-pc car will be caged and become a racecar then OK, but if it will be a street car, NO! 🤣
@@findtherightbeat wasnt just a street car, a show car too! Oops lmfaooo
Ty I’m looking so this is good Ty
Oh definitely and even when not “buying” the stuff in this can be used to check our “own” cars ftw!
🔥🔥🔥👌
Yes sir! Free ultra valuable guide
Hole shit my engine is loud 😭
what engine is it? Could just be as simple as valve lash tappets no biggie
@@SRDmotorsports it’s a d16y8 I can take a video and post it I think it needs a valve adjustment
valve lash adjustments are part of tune ups every 25-30k miles or something like that, it says so in the manual
planning to buy hondacivic 2007
Nice much the same details to check too