Shit I thought I had nothing better to do than watch UA-cam videos but you take it to the next level you watch and take notes dam you got too much time ⏲️ haha
Great video. Very much needed. I was scammed by a used car dealer before and now I’m about to purchase another vehicle on my own. No one showed me these things and unfortunately I have no men in my life. Thanks for helping me
There are free check lists on line that you can take with you. But FIRST be sure that the seller is the registered owner with a clear title IN HAND. Not someone "selling for a relative or neighbor". Don't bother if they can't pass that test. Must have all service records in hand. IF the car passes all of those very basic tests, get a good PPI (prepurchase inspection) by your own trusted mechanic. You can ask over the phone whether the seller will agree to that if the car passes your basic review. If he won't, just walk away. There are LOTS of cars out there. NEVER hesitate to move on. NEVER even bother to look at unreliable makes or models. Stick to Toyota, some Honda and Mazda models.
If they sell it for someone and the deal is tempting, ask them if the registered owner can be present because I've sold my dad's car twice in the last five years and bought the last three cars for him to avoid that he's getting ripped off because he would be free lunch for any car dealer. Of course our family name is the same and that convinced the last buyer.
I would also add look under the car for any bad rust, check the steering to the the full extend left and right. Turn on as many accessories as you can while stressing the steering, this should put the highest electrical load on the car and maybe reveal some problems. Also look at the shocks and struts for leaks and rust, look at the ball joints. Look at the rotors. Do some hard breaking, check that the abs is working. Check the panel gaps for evenness. Check the passenger side floor for any dampness.
Yes, yes, yes. I got burned on a Ford Ranger. I couldn't even get it inspected. It was about to break in two. And I can't believe he didn't cover burning oil. These are the two worst problems-- not mentioned.
Something not mentioned: smell the dipstick, oil filler cap and filler hole if you can get to it. I recently passed up a Mustang GT because the oil reeked of gasoline. This can indicate bad compression/ oil scavenging rings, and/ or bad valves and valve seats, allowing fuel/air mixture into the oil galleys of your engine, accelerating wear throughout the entire engine.
Hate to tell you this, but smell of gas in oil means bad fuel pump. Also check for foam in radiator means bad head gasket. If your car is running rich, means air/fuel mixture is incorrect for carb in my time, but newer garbage means bad fuel injectors and this will cause bad rings,comprehension and consumption. Any vehicle you beat on will cause motor damage. Oh when we didn't have catalytic converters I used a pint of Valvoline tranny fluid in my gas, then changed plugs after, and this was done to protect the engine. Also old school real mechanics also knew you could use moth balls to bring the octane up in gas, but can't with new cars. Just a female perspective. Today the gas they make us use is destroying are cars. Proof is in all the older cars and trucks still around.
Terrifically helpful material. I am the (retired) managing editor of an auto magazine, and producer of a syndicated automotive radio show (remember them???). I can state with absolute certainty that this advice is solid. I would add: SMELL CHECK... if the interior smells like mold, WALK AWAY. Pull up the carpet. Do you see water damage or residue? WALK AWAY.
I bought 2015 Dodge Dart flood damage. The interior had dirt and was moldy. I got to work and cleaned the inside. Best car I’ve ever bought. Moldy interior could be roof leak which is typical of cars with panorama sunroof. That is one hell of an expense!!
I would add, check the undercarriage of the vehicle for rust, stretch out the seat belt and check if the belt has same color or different, if dirty means the car was flooded, check the door alignment to the vehicle's body alignment, boot alignment, everywhere it should have same gap.. thank you..🎉❤
I'd call this good advice, though oddly I always suggest bringing someone you trust along when you look a vehicle over. Your less likely to be bullied, rushed, and an extra set of eyes is handy, even if they're not car experts. I try and pick friends with a good BS meter first, and mechanically inclined second.
I keep a spreadsheet on all my maintenance and repairs that includes date, mileage and a good description (and cost) of what was done. It really makes it easy to keep up with things and provides an easy way to look back to see just what and when something was done. Put your VIN at the top for easy reference as at times you will need that info. You can also include a macro to tell you when your next oil change is due if you separate oil changes from repairs by column
Or you could follow the manufacturers service schedule. They built it, they test it and have so much more education about the vehicles they build than anyone else.
@@albybloke2289 I dont even care Im 2 months late, what the hell are you on about dude. They legit were talking about nothing but tracking maintence on their car. Nothing about the specifics like how many miles until the oil change, so you either horribly misunderstood or are just openly assuming because of something they said. You know what they say about assuming...
I feel that both pieces of advice are compatible with each other. Regulations around cars vary throughout the world. I live in New Zealand where there is a relatively high number of imported 2nd hand cars that are owned for longer than countries like Britain, Japan, or USA. Many of those cars are not serviced by a branded dealer. Some mechanics put the onus on the customer to maintain a history of what has been done to their car. I suggest that this video is aiming towards people with little experience of cars, like myself.
Also Look at the seller face carefully ...is the person honest, is the person look like a caring person, is the person clean,is the car clean correctly, is the oil dripping, is the engine bay clean, does all the windows roll up correctly....there is a lot you can learn about the car you are buying because of the owner appearance.
You’re the text book definition of don’t judge a book by its cover, my 01 dodge dakota with 265,000 miles was purchased from An awkward & fairly dirty guy living in his car. He mainted it meticulously, it was his only form of housing and transportation. At you’re logic a dealership is the way to go
This is the best video on UA-cam...I don't know why it doesn't have millions views. The only thing I would add is about how to check for flooded cars but I guess there is no flood in Hawaii.
i Bought a 2005 Honda Accord with 197,000 miles for 3,000 bucks because it had a small ugly scrape on the front and rear bumpers, the original 1 owner lady said she was not the best person to park a car, LOL it was obvious, but thats why i got a great car for so Cheap, that was 4 years ago and the car now has 213,000 miles and still drives and runs like new.
Few things to add. Do a background check on the owner of the used car dealership. Look at carpets for water stains and smell for odors. You can decide on if you want to purchase a history report or a carfax, but don’t put much faith in the accuracy. Highly suggest buying an OBDII, a $40 one will do. And do not ever sign anything that states “as is”. Everything he says is true! You need to really search for damages. If they claim it’s never been in an accident and the seals aren’t aligning, RUN!
@@leasea9621 so many things can be hidden. I purchased a vehicle, 2 days later I was stranded in the middle of nowhere in the dark. Brought the vehicle back to the dealership the next day and it was $3,500 to fix. When leaving the dealership, everything seemed perfect. 2 days and I’m paying that much to repair it? After speaking with multiple attorneys they all warned me to never buy “as is” .
UPDATE! I had a very experienced mechanic and body shop guy fully inspect my vehicle. Clean title, but it’s been in at least three collisions. Front drivers side was the hardest hit, it got t-boned on the passenger side and rear ended on the driver’s side. Due to all this, every time it rains, I know I have an expensive repair coming. Last week I had to replace my headlight ($105) and today I have 15 codes. Only 4 months since I left my comment and repairs far exceed the cost of the vehicle. BE CAREFUL
@@ThisIsMyUA-camName1 wow I'm sorry that happened to you. Make sure you decide whether or not the car is worth fixing to avoid wasting more money. Also if your car has low mileage you may qualify to add a third party extended warranty
@@lilman4067 I did have a third party warranty, but it didn’t cover things that needed to be replaced. Since my last comment, the vehicle is now a complete loss. Mechanic said my head gasket is blown, despite no sign of oil being contaminated and the vehicle has never once ran hot. Never had any issues with oil leaking and coolant is full. I don’t understand why or how, but my credit union has started to investigate (no auto fraud attorneys will even reply to us, so hopefully they can get something resolved). I don’t want anyone going through this. The economy is bad enough, to get scammed out of $9k? It’s sick
Great tips. Thanks so much. I’m currently in the market for a used mini van but they’re so expensive and I don’t want to get burned. I feel educated on what to look for .
I've been working at a body shop for a bit now and extra tips I learned was if you're painting the door, it's better to take off the mirror and belt molding (the trim at the bottom of the window) for a better paint job in the end. The mirror can get in the way, and if you're unlucky, the clear coat could stick in that gap between the door and the belt molding.
Good video, but you failed to mention how easy it is to Photoshop maintenance records and they're worth nothing unless you have a relationship with the shop on the paperwork. You can pretty much assume someone selling a used car is lying to you. This holds especially true to car flippers.
Excellent video. I would add to tires to check the DOT numbers that will tell you the year and week that tire was manufactured. Sometimes the tread looks great, but the tire is ten years old because the car was garaged or not driven much. Tires over five years need to be replaced, regardless of the tread depth.
The 5 year replacement guideline is variable. It is sun and heat that cause the issues. If in northern US or Canada, and especially if the car was kept in a garage -- 10 years on a tire should be fine. And not unheard of if the car has two sets of tires -- summer and winter -- and hence neither set gets used for the full mileage in a year.
Depends more on the tyre's exposure to deteriorating elements (e.g. temperature changes, extreme temperatures, sun etc). Even if only 4 years old, they can be cracking and can be dangerous in the wet. Meanwhile another car can have 10 year old tyres that may just be starting to crack or have no cracks.
great video man! I just bought mine yesterday for 4000 USD with 93k Miles on it. No noises at all, plus the owner got installed a brand new the power steering system.
Knowing how to read 4 digit DOT date code on tires is helpful 💡 Mismatched tires and El Cheapo no name tires are a red flag imo CarFax, AutoCheck, etc, are not always accurate I looked at a 17k mile Toyota with a clean history that had the entire front end and windshield had been replaced Repair was nicely done, but no way to determine if air bags were replaced
Excellent. I live near hills in California. Taking a test drive that includes steep hills is a good way to feel transmission slipping. And I learned only recently (after driving for 50 years) that the engine needs to be running when you check your transmission fluid level.
I wished I had the common sense to learn from videos like yours before buying my used car! Everything was perfect until the fan belt broke, water tank and pipe leaked, radiator leaked, and the damn workshop had to fix all other weary parts and everything cost me a BOMB 😢
Check springs ( suspension) by hand and body press for bounce, check any suspension leakage. Start engine and check rpm after a while it should be between .75 to 1. Then while driv9ng listen to wheels for any bearing issues. 4th after ride check the end of exhaust for smoke cokor, white, blue and black
Remember that its a used car. Dont expect perfection. The Polo I purchased for 7800 was a repaired accident vehicle. They one in perfect condition was 28,000 with 0.2 miles.
My vehicle was in an accident - no frame damage just a door. It has a salvaged title. I have never had any problems with the car at all. Six years later, it is the best deal I have ever gotten - bought from a lady getting a divorce & she preferred her SUV she used to take her kids around. This luxury sedan is my dream car - bought at barely 4 years old & low miles.
Good stuff. I see others have more suggestions in comments. I smell the ATF, too. A burnt sugar smell can mean a very damaged transmission. I don't like to see a washed engine. Water and modern electronics are mortal enemies with delayed corrosion of electrical connectors. Same with evidence of water elsewhere like under floor and trunk mats. Engine vibration that disappears when transmission is in gear can = bad motor mounts.
I was about to make similar comments. Also check under the front floor mats for any water. Most people know that but it's wise to check under the trunk carpet, too. Some cars have very expensive electronic elements back there.
My friend brought with him one of those ODB2 thingy, plugged it in , looked on his iphone , unplugged it , and said let’s go. never asked him what up, this was years ago.. oh crap you just mentioned the obd2 thingy
9:12 if a timing belt breaks it could be catastrophic for your engine if it is an ”interference type” engine. There are cars with ”Non-Interference type” engines, if the belt brakes or skips, it just shuts down without causing damage.
over the past thirty yrs, almost all cars in the U.S. mkt increasingly became interference types, with either belts or chains. When the belt breaks, it's extremely likely that there is damage that financially 'totals' an not fresh/newer car. ALWAYS do the timing belt on time, and if not sure about its condition, get the cover off and inspect closely. When in doubt about it or the water pump that is part of the set-up with it, do it all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Real easy inspection . Look for the VIN stickers on the Fenders, Hood, and Doors. Most manufacturers put those stickers for ID purposes.No stickers mean part replacement, (Accidents) . Check the engine compartment for stains that could indicate a coolant overflow and overheating, and oil leaks. Look under the car for oil leaks, especially the pavement where the car has been regularly parked. It is best to get the car on a lift to really examine the undercarriage. Don't buy a rust bucket! Don't buy an oil soaked undercarriage! Also , examine each side of the car's paint, you should see your shadow clearly, like a mirror. Any change in the reflection means paint/body work. Test drive the car, listening for any noises or rattles, and see that the car drives straight (doesn't pull to one side), with no sounds when braking or turning (bad wheel bearings roar when turning) Check for sounds when going over uneven terrain, there should be no squeaking or bumping sounds that may indicate suspension issues. Ask the owner for a maintenance record. If he has none, you probably need to walk away. If the Tranny hasn't been serviced at LEAST every 75K miles, you may be in for a big repair. Last-------Don't want to buy a car you want so badly that you fail to inspect it properly! If you aren't qualified, take someone with you who is, even if you have to pay them a few bucks! For this info, No charge......
Also if you want to spend less for repairs then get yourself a car with less frills. Blind spot monitors and stuff like that is sensitive. My one is a naturally aspirated engine with a manual transmission and manual air conditioning.
Good video but for females I’d like to add some feedback…you mentioned what we should watch out for but there’s nothing to compare it to….for coolant is it to be oily and clear but not water, for the oil…what does the white and milky color look like? What does the good and bad look like by comparison that way we can visually get a mental picture of what’s good and what’s a no go! lol. Great video!
This information is gold when looking for a used vehicle. I was an Autobody tech for 36 years and I would respectfully add a few more things to look out for. Budget Mechanic touched on what to look for where damage is concerned. I would add, look under the hood for any bolts, fender hood etc that look like they have been disturbed (paint chipping) This will indicate someone has undone these to possibly replace a fender or hood. If this has been done, what else was damaged. In the trunk, look into the wheel well area where the rear end panel and floor meet, does this area look undisturbed. If you see any signs of buckling, sealer replaced this could indicate damage. Last is, if the vehicle milage has been tampered with. Look up the vehicle history report. This will let you know about milage and if the vehicle has been involved in a REPORTED accident. If the vehicle was damaged and no insurance company was involved with it's repair, this damage will NOT show up on the report. The most common accidents are front and rear, hence you look there first. Then open all the doors, again look for disturbed bolts, doors not aligned properly etc. Good luck everybody.
As life long gearhead I got scammed a while back buying used Honda CRV...I thought everything looked good until I took it to a tire shop and discovered a bent control arm and a very worn rear tired. It can happen!!
One thing I always do before buying a car remove the radiator cap, start the car, if the coolant burst out while starting the car, don't buy it, the cooling should sit in the radiator at least a minute, without rising.
Hi wondering if you might have an answer. I went to look at a used car and guy knew I was coming, but when I got there, the car was very warm as he had just taken it to the post office. Even though he had another car. It's bad news if the engine is running when you get there right? So what if it's been very recently driven?
Yes, the person is hiding several things, a cold start, where you do not hear all of the components engage to support an engine start which has more friction/resistance, access to fluids that get hot, ie radiator fluid, access to engine that will burn you. A cold transmission engagement will feel bad, but same transmission warm could feel normal. Electric load issues are masked as well, less engine demand. I am certain I am missing things, but yes, the seller is inconsiderate at best or hiding things at worst.
@@gwilli1754 Thanks for your Good reasons to inspect car fluids first while engine is cold, then start it the first time yourself before test drive. And check for codes with a scanner before you start it, and after test drive maybe too. Perhaps this is why some used cars being advertised by used lot sellers say "by appointment only", so they can clear codes & warm it up before you get there. So much to learn.
Good advice,but update there are non expensive scanners that scan in modules and can diagnose the SRS system as well as operate the module associated with it.Just look around,buy it once have it for a lifetime as long as the manufacturer supports updates,
Also, don't go online and make an appointment to see a particular car. That gives them a chance to go "spruce " it up, air it out and let it run for a while to warm the engine. You want to see it start up after it's set a while and been closed up.
Another thing would be doing a vehicle owner search. This is to ensure that the car you are buying is not a stolen car. Do everything to know the person behind a vehicle identification number (VIN) or a license plate number. The car theft rate in the U.S. stood at 246 cases per 100,000 residents. Just by these numbers, you should verify all cars sold to your business, as you may get fined and face lawsuits for buying stolen cars.
Bring someone with you, ask to see and hold the title. Have your partner read the VIN from the dash and verify it matches the VIN on the title. also, slowly look the title over and look for any "Leins". Many DMV's/Secretary of State will allow you to enter the VIN in and see if the title is "clear & free". Open the trunk and look for signs the car has been rearended, row down all windows to see if they operate properly. Ask if you can take the car to a mechanic just to see what the seller says or how they act.
The one about the stored codes is one that 99% of people miss! Even though there is no light on, the seller could have just reset it and hopes you won’t check it.
I just fell for it a month ago. Vehicle left me stranded in the middle of nowhere, pitch black. This happened 2 days after purchase. First time buying used, found out even the history report was false. These cons can beat almost any system. I could sue (every single thing he had in the ad was fraudulent), I just rather pay the repair ($3,000!!!!!) and don’t want to see this person again.
@@ThisIsMyUA-camName1 you really should sue IMHO. By not suing, you’re guaranteeing that piece of shit will continue to scam people just like you in the future. • Please, do it for the sake of the innocent that will get ‘robbed’ by this person 🙏🏻
Also when checking the tires make sure the tires are all the same size and make. Also check the four digit numbers that appear together in a group. These are the week and year those tires were made. Thanks for the video it was informative.
The first car I ever bought for myself had amazing A/C that was so good, it could keep ice cream from melting in 90f degree weather for a few hours, and really good sound system that was powerful enough to drown out all those bass-beaters out there. It was fun to drown out booming-bass-beat with Beethoven-Bass-Cello if it came down to someone being rude about it (in residential areas and gas stations)... But that was literally all it had going for it. Nearly everything else about that stupid thing was a disaster. To this day, I'm seriously peeved at the dealership that sold me the dang thing. I had to take it to 5 different shops (2 of which were OTHER dealerships) just to sort out a really weird and strong shimmy that happened between 63 and 68 MPH. Turned out it was after market rims of some sort, but it took FIVE repair shops to figure that out? Gah! Never again. I'll pay a trusted mechanic to test drive a car WITH me before there is a "next time" I buy used... lol
Was my very first car of my own, way back in 2006-ish. Took it to 2 repair shops, AND two dealerships; over the course of half a year. And the last one finally figured out what was going on (which was that it had after-market rims) and we (family) got them replaced. But that was some expensive work having 4 different places "have a look at it" and then the actual repair. I wasn't exactly torn up later when it needed to be retired... But it had served me well enough through my early work-years.
I bought a used 2008 Pilot 3 1/2 years ago for $5,000..Love it...Heated seats, moon roof, great car..Wish it got better mileage, but I only drive it maybe 3,000 miles a year..I am tempted to buy a new vehicle, but they just aren't worth the money they are asking...We also have a 2019 Honda CRV...It gets 25-30 miles per gallon..It too is a good car..
That was good, two thigs I would add, sometimes you can tell if the vehicle has had body work by noticing a slightly different shade of paint from one body componant to another , such as where the rear 1/4 panel meets the door , or the hood to the fender . Also , when you turn the ignotion forward but before you get to the point where the vehicle will turn over all of the dash indicator lights should be on . I have heard of cases where a crafty selle ( usually a dealer )r had a way of getting the inspection sticker, then would disconect the " check engine light " so it would look like it was off . Te problem is , the next time . like next years inspection , the reader is plugged in , it will show a code even though the light is off .
Very informative video. Im on a market of used car and all tips really makes sense. Thanks for this content and will keep this in mind when im hunting for used car. 👌
I have saved myself from ALOT of lemons by asking to take it to a mechanic first...also my mother had a father who was a mechanic so he taught her alot and she knew what to look for when car shopping and buying! I saved this video because your spot on!😮🎉
With all due respect, is that realistic? My mechanic doesn't even work on weekends. And you're also assuming the distance to your mechanic is reasonable. What if the car is 50 miles away? Plus a mechanic should be paid to inspect a car. Lots of things to consider. :)
Thanks a lot Budget....you mentioned some things that I would not have thought of so thank you! Please remember that God loves you and wants you to love Him enough to be with Him forever by abandoning your ways and letting Him bring His ways into your life. 🙂 ...thanks again for the help. 🙂
I checked everything on this video plus some things not mentioned like blue smoke when accelerating hard ( had someone behind me to check the tailpipe ) , it took me 3 hours & then I found the blinker fluid was dirty & had never been changed , glad I walked away , hardly anyone seems to do this simple maintenance job 👍
Subscribed 😊.... Thank you for making such informative and enjoyable videos, where one can learn a lot of new things.... Keep up the good work brother 👍👍
If your buying a nice car, service history and tyres, do they match, are they a premium brand. 4 x pirellis or continental half worn are a great indication the car has been cared for
Check blow by removing cap and place it back without tightening and see ifsmoke is coming out and the cap is fluttering. Put peice of card board under enging and check for coolent, oil dripping. Look up common problems with this car on UA-cam, Take the car to a mechanic and have pre purchase inspection.
Good tip... start a cold engine with the radiator cap loosened... but what problem does it indicate, if the water spurts out immediately, instead of it happening after a minute?
For older cars, more than 15 years old, that were stored outside, for brighter colors, the paint on the outside should be duller than the covered frame paint, since it did not get the same sun exposure, and consistent in dullness. If there is an outside area that is not as dull, pay attention to that are, look below to see all the clips, and work being done. For an older car that was taken care of, may not necessarily mean much, for example a car that I sold that I still miss, had that feature, as it was bumped while backing up, and I did the body work myself. Not being an expert, I was a bit generous with bondo and aluminum plating behind it, but I did a good job with it, came out surprisingly well. I disclosed it to a buyer who was just wanting to not pay for a maintained car, that obviously had TLC in it, and the guy who was impressed with my work got it. I would gladly take a low mileage high trim Camry from early 2000s than one from now, the interiors and engines are not what they used to be back in the day.
Good tip about exposed paint dulling, vs, new paint from a repair, and paint that was protected like inside door frames. Another vid said to check inside gas cap for paint of a different color or quality as a sign of repair too, and under the bottom window seal along where it sits on the door.
Wow these were great tips. The funny thing is that almost every used car seller thinks that 125,000 miles on a car is "low miles"! I guess "low miles" should really apply to a car that have 50K-80K. Those are rare.
What would be the best scan tool to get that can read ALL code and retain all the data a car gives them? I personally got burned by not checking the OIL on a truck that I purchased. I should have done so and I even did so on prior vehicle purchases, but the one time I did not it got me. Also heater core problems can relate to the a/c system if both the a/c evaporator and heat core are housed in the same box that is attached to the firewall of the car, the those that don't know it it means you have to disconnect both just to replace one or the other. The means if the heater core leaks that is just as bad as the A/C not working.
I got scammed by a used car dealer when I was younger. Even the kid filling my gas noticed the car needed an oil change. The car broke down on the way home. Big lesson learned.
I checked out a 2008 Toyota Avalon 3 weeks ago and when I turned the ignition switch to on, all the lights came on and when I started the car up, they all STAYED ON. So I went and pop the hood to listen to the engine, it had a very noticeable tick. When I say in the car it had a funk smell to it, like mildew and when I walked around the car looking at the it looked like it was used as a bumper car. No this car only had 76,000 miles on it, needless to say this was a Ft. Myers special (AKA flood car). This dealer had a whole lot full of them, I looked at 3 Lexus cars and the Toyota and all four had that funky smell to their interiors. They were also all low miles, but they looked like bumper cars too, beware these cars are out there and there are a lot of them. Oh I looked at another Lexus IS250 on another lot and ran my finger on the inside of the exhaust pipe, heavy carbon build up, it was running really rich, the car also had lowering struts on it, this being a rear wheel drive car, I wouldn't doubt it was used by a previous owner as a part time drifter.
Bottom chassis rust. I got burned on a Ford Ranger. I couldn't even get it inspected. It was about to break in two. And I can't believe he didn't cover burning oil. These are the two worst problems-- not mentioned.
If you want to know if the car you're looking at needs a timing belt replacement, make sure it's not a timing chain. Search for "timing belt or chain", it will tell you which one it has.
2 reasons why someone would be selling their vehicle: 1) Not wanted or 2) Not needed/used). Majority of the time, it is because it is not wanted even if they got a new vehicle you might want to find out what compelled them to get a new one because people don't typically look into replacing or upgrading a vehicle they are happy with, right? You will need to be a sleuth and find out why exactly they are selling it. The initial reason(s) they give you just for the asking is often not the real thing or not entirely. Much like a resume 98% of the sellers will lie or at least exaggerate a good thing or undermine an issue. Typically, I would try to get a feel for the seller's vibe and behavior. If the seller is not saying much or saying too much or seems too eager or nervous, to me each is a red flag. Ultimately, if you don't like the seller's attitude or something doesn't feel right, just walk away. There are more vehicles out there, don't rush and end up buying a lemon.
look around at the wiring harness+connections! nothing worse than intermittent electrical problems,bear in mind that if the ecu is bad finding another one may be impossible.
My friend bought a used 2013 Honda civic from dealership with 98,000 miles on it for $10,000 and paid $800 for registration and taxes. Since then he is spending money on the car every month. He changed engine mounts one month, next month he changed VTEC solenoid, MAP sensor, cleaned MAF sensor. next month he said transmission not shifting smooth he changed transmission oil 3 times 3 quarts every time, transmission solenoids, then he changed tensioner, serpentine belt, then water pump, Chaned brakes, rotors, he did valve adjustments, now he said timing jumped by 2 teeth. HELL of a time. Waste of time. Buy brand new, use for 90000 miles sell and get new one. No used car.
Check the coolant. My cousin and I went to buy a truck, owner said it had no coolant in it (didn't matter cause it was minus 20celcius that day) I insisted on checking anyway. Coolant tank was full of stop leak crud. There was no room to poor water/coolant in. Did not buy
Great video! Im looking for a cargo van to haul my miniature horses, so I definitely want something safe and in decent condition. The tips you shared will help me determine if the van I'm interested in is worth spending the $ for my mechanic to do a prepurchase inspection. Thanks!
0:30 Overview
0:40 Body match, dents, cosmetic dmg
1:06 Paint, hidden color
1:40 Tires
2:36 Hood.. Fluids
2:44 Coolant
3:52 Engine Oil
4:47 Transmission fluid
5:50 Test Drive
5:58 Instrument Panel, Dashboard Lights
6:37 Engine light.. ODB scanner reading
7:31 Airbag light
8:03 mileage, parts needing replacements
9:35 Seeing transmission gear shift problems
10:04 AC system
10:31 Unnecessary mods customs
You the real MVP, thank you. Wish YT let me copy this for my notes
@I am MVP
THANK YOU 💗
Shit I thought I had nothing better to do than watch UA-cam videos but you take it to the next level you watch and take notes dam you got too much time ⏲️ haha
Mitral Valvé Pró-Lãpsê
Great video. Very much needed. I was scammed by a used car dealer before and now I’m about to purchase another vehicle on my own. No one showed me these things and unfortunately I have no men in my life. Thanks for helping me
There are free check lists on line that you can take with you. But FIRST be sure that the seller is the registered owner with a clear title IN HAND. Not someone "selling for a relative or neighbor". Don't bother if they can't pass that test. Must have all service records in hand. IF the car passes all of those very basic tests, get a good PPI (prepurchase inspection) by your own trusted mechanic. You can ask over the phone whether the seller will agree to that if the car passes your basic review. If he won't, just walk away. There are LOTS of cars out there. NEVER hesitate to move on. NEVER even bother to look at unreliable makes or models.
Stick to Toyota, some Honda and Mazda models.
Just get a pre-purchase inspection!!
If they sell it for someone and the deal is tempting, ask them if the registered owner can be present because I've sold my dad's car twice in the last five years and bought the last three cars for him to avoid that he's getting ripped off because he would be free lunch for any car dealer.
Of course our family name is the same and that convinced the last buyer.
@@no-damn-alias "Do you have a clear title in your name in hand? No?" Don't bother looking at the car.
@@wholeNwon not a US citizen. What's the difference between a clear and non clear title and what might cause what?
I would also add look under the car for any bad rust, check the steering to the the full extend left and right. Turn on as many accessories as you can while stressing the steering, this should put the highest electrical load on the car and maybe reveal some problems. Also look at the shocks and struts for leaks and rust, look at the ball joints. Look at the rotors. Do some hard breaking, check that the abs is working. Check the panel gaps for evenness. Check the passenger side floor for any dampness.
Rust is the worst we can always change an engine we can't change chassis
Yes, yes, yes. I got burned on a Ford Ranger. I couldn't even get it inspected. It was about to break in two. And I can't believe he didn't cover burning oil. These are the two worst problems-- not mentioned.
What is dampness in the passanger floor mean?
@@LeviWalton777Bad heater core
@@LeviWalton777 Rain water ingress. Bad seals etc
Something not mentioned: smell the dipstick, oil filler cap and filler hole if you can get to it. I recently passed up a Mustang GT because the oil reeked of gasoline. This can indicate bad compression/ oil scavenging rings, and/ or bad valves and valve seats, allowing fuel/air mixture into the oil galleys of your engine, accelerating wear throughout the entire engine.
Or you know the car running rich, and the dude flooring the car around alot as well, you are always going to get some gas dilution in a motor.
Good point.
Hate to tell you this, but smell of gas in oil means bad fuel pump. Also check for foam in radiator means bad head gasket. If your car is running rich, means air/fuel mixture is incorrect for carb in my time, but newer garbage means bad fuel injectors and this will cause bad rings,comprehension and consumption. Any vehicle you beat on will cause motor damage. Oh when we didn't have catalytic converters I used a pint of Valvoline tranny fluid in my gas, then changed plugs after, and this was done to protect the engine. Also old school real mechanics also knew you could use moth balls to bring the octane up in gas, but can't with new cars. Just a female perspective. Today the gas they make us use is destroying are cars. Proof is in all the older cars and trucks still around.
Should also smell the transmission fluid if it smells burnt may be an overheating transmission costly repairs there as well..
Or it’s just oil dilution like on Honda civic, which is baddd
Great video. Nice, calm and to the point. No loud talk, no drama. Very well done.
Terrifically helpful material. I am the (retired) managing editor of an auto magazine, and producer of a syndicated automotive radio show (remember them???). I can state with absolute certainty that this advice is solid. I would add: SMELL CHECK... if the interior smells like mold, WALK AWAY. Pull up the carpet. Do you see water damage or residue? WALK AWAY.
Good ones
Oh crap
I bought 2015 Dodge Dart flood damage. The interior had dirt and was moldy. I got to work and cleaned the inside. Best car I’ve ever bought. Moldy interior could be roof leak which is typical of cars with panorama sunroof. That is one hell of an expense!!
I would add, check the undercarriage of the vehicle for rust, stretch out the seat belt and check if the belt has same color or different, if dirty means the car was flooded, check the door alignment to the vehicle's body alignment, boot alignment, everywhere it should have same gap.. thank you..🎉❤
I'd call this good advice, though oddly I always suggest bringing someone you trust along when you look a vehicle over. Your less likely to be bullied, rushed, and an extra set of eyes is handy, even if they're not car experts. I try and pick friends with a good BS meter first, and mechanically inclined second.
Underbody inspection is very needed in wet or rust belt areas.
This honestlt is the best video I've watched about what to check before buying a used car.
I keep a spreadsheet on all my maintenance and repairs that includes date, mileage and a good description (and cost) of what was done. It really makes it easy to keep up with things and provides an easy way to look back to see just what and when something was done. Put your VIN at the top for easy reference as at times you will need that info. You can also include a macro to tell you when your next oil change is due if you separate oil changes from repairs by column
Or you could follow the manufacturers service schedule.
They built it, they test it and have so much more education about the vehicles they build than anyone else.
@@albybloke2289 I dont even care Im 2 months late, what the hell are you on about dude. They legit were talking about nothing but tracking maintence on their car. Nothing about the specifics like how many miles until the oil change, so you either horribly misunderstood or are just openly assuming because of something they said.
You know what they say about assuming...
@@cherriberri8373 I'll rely on my 45 years in the motor trade to know what I said, if you can match that I'm happy to listen.
I feel that both pieces of advice are compatible with each other. Regulations around cars vary throughout the world. I live in New Zealand where there is a relatively high number of imported 2nd hand cars that are owned for longer than countries like Britain, Japan, or USA. Many of those cars are not serviced by a branded dealer. Some mechanics put the onus on the customer to maintain a history of what has been done to their car.
I suggest that this video is aiming towards people with little experience of cars, like myself.
Spreadsheets do not prove you did the maintance. Receipts do
Also Look at the seller face carefully ...is the person honest, is the person look like a caring person, is the person clean,is the car clean correctly, is the oil dripping, is the engine bay clean, does all the windows roll up correctly....there is a lot you can learn about the car you are buying because of the owner appearance.
You’re the text book definition of don’t judge a book by its cover, my 01 dodge dakota with 265,000 miles was purchased from An awkward & fairly dirty guy living in his car. He mainted it meticulously, it was his only form of housing and transportation. At you’re logic a dealership is the way to go
This is the best video on UA-cam...I don't know why it doesn't have millions views. The only thing I would add is about how to check for flooded cars but I guess there is no flood in Hawaii.
This guy is all about expensive repairs, love it 😀
Only uneducated people think tires and car parts are expensive
Good job covering all the main things that keep the car in good running order, very professional! !!
i Bought a 2005 Honda Accord with 197,000 miles for 3,000 bucks because it had a small ugly scrape on the front and rear bumpers, the original 1 owner lady said she was not the best person to park a car, LOL it was obvious, but thats why i got a great car for so Cheap, that was 4 years ago and the car now has 213,000 miles and still drives and runs like new.
Few things to add.
Do a background check on the owner of the used car dealership. Look at carpets for water stains and smell for odors. You can decide on if you want to purchase a history report or a carfax, but don’t put much faith in the accuracy. Highly suggest buying an OBDII, a $40 one will do. And do not ever sign anything that states “as is”. Everything he says is true! You need to really search for damages. If they claim it’s never been in an accident and the seals aren’t aligning, RUN!
Can I ask you…why not to sign anything as is? Even if it’s been through a good dealer and and everything on the vehicle is good?
@@leasea9621 so many things can be hidden. I purchased a vehicle, 2 days later I was stranded in the middle of nowhere in the dark. Brought the vehicle back to the dealership the next day and it was $3,500 to fix. When leaving the dealership, everything seemed perfect. 2 days and I’m paying that much to repair it? After speaking with multiple attorneys they all warned me to never buy “as is” .
UPDATE!
I had a very experienced mechanic and body shop guy fully inspect my vehicle. Clean title, but it’s been in at least three collisions. Front drivers side was the hardest hit, it got t-boned on the passenger side and rear ended on the driver’s side. Due to all this, every time it rains, I know I have an expensive repair coming. Last week I had to replace my headlight ($105) and today I have 15 codes. Only 4 months since I left my comment and repairs far exceed the cost of the vehicle. BE CAREFUL
@@ThisIsMyUA-camName1 wow I'm sorry that happened to you. Make sure you decide whether or not the car is worth fixing to avoid wasting more money. Also if your car has low mileage you may qualify to add a third party extended warranty
@@lilman4067 I did have a third party warranty, but it didn’t cover things that needed to be replaced. Since my last comment, the vehicle is now a complete loss. Mechanic said my head gasket is blown, despite no sign of oil being contaminated and the vehicle has never once ran hot. Never had any issues with oil leaking and coolant is full. I don’t understand why or how, but my credit union has started to investigate (no auto fraud attorneys will even reply to us, so hopefully they can get something resolved). I don’t want anyone going through this. The economy is bad enough, to get scammed out of $9k? It’s sick
Love our calm, no-nonsense, detailed presentation.
Great tips. Thanks so much. I’m currently in the market for a used mini van but they’re so expensive and I don’t want to get burned. I feel educated on what to look for .
Best of luck!
I've been working at a body shop for a bit now and extra tips I learned was if you're painting the door, it's better to take off the mirror and belt molding (the trim at the bottom of the window) for a better paint job in the end. The mirror can get in the way, and if you're unlucky, the clear coat could stick in that gap between the door and the belt molding.
Good video, but you failed to mention how easy it is to Photoshop maintenance records and they're worth nothing unless you have a relationship with the shop on the paperwork. You can pretty much assume someone selling a used car is lying to you. This holds especially true to car flippers.
FANTASTIC video! I took a lot of notes! I'm shopping now for a used minivan and YOU have HELPED tremendously! THANK YOU and I subscribed!
Glad it helped! Thanks for subscribing!
Stick to Toyotas.
Excellent video. I would add to tires to check the DOT numbers that will tell you the year and week that tire was manufactured. Sometimes the tread looks great, but the tire is ten years old because the car was garaged or not driven much. Tires over five years need to be replaced, regardless of the tread depth.
The 5 year replacement guideline is variable. It is sun and heat that cause the issues. If in northern US or Canada, and especially if the car was kept in a garage -- 10 years on a tire should be fine. And not unheard of if the car has two sets of tires -- summer and winter -- and hence neither set gets used for the full mileage in a year.
Depends more on the tyre's exposure to deteriorating elements (e.g. temperature changes, extreme temperatures, sun etc). Even if only 4 years old, they can be cracking and can be dangerous in the wet. Meanwhile another car can have 10 year old tyres that may just be starting to crack or have no cracks.
great video man! I just bought mine yesterday for 4000 USD with 93k Miles on it. No noises at all, plus the owner got installed a brand new the power steering system.
You got burnt b
Is the car still running?
Knowing how to read 4 digit DOT date code on tires is helpful 💡
Mismatched tires and El Cheapo no name tires are a red flag imo
CarFax, AutoCheck, etc, are not always accurate
I looked at a 17k mile Toyota with a clean history that had the entire front end and windshield had been replaced
Repair was nicely done, but no way to determine if air bags were replaced
Not sure why such a precise, informative video has only 2k like. Liked and subscribed, thanks!
Excellent. I live near hills in California. Taking a test drive that includes steep hills is a good way to feel transmission slipping. And I learned only recently (after driving for 50 years) that the engine needs to be running when you check your transmission fluid level.
And don’t forget to check the blinker fluid. That’s highly crucial
A very important part, don't buy a car without checking it. It can cost millions to replace
Don’t be ridiculous… obviously collecting an exhaust sample is your first step.
I’m a private in the Army and I got that one played on me 😂😂😂
Hahaha
Oh shit I forgot to do that… 😂
Excellent video, opening the gas tank to see if color matches the exterior color great suggestion.
I wished I had the common sense to learn from videos like yours before buying my used car! Everything was perfect until the fan belt broke, water tank and pipe leaked, radiator leaked, and the damn workshop had to fix all other weary parts and everything cost me a BOMB 😢
Ahh come on, a newish car would cost you much more than those 3k$ for your car +600$ for repairs
Check springs ( suspension) by hand and body press for bounce, check any suspension leakage. Start engine and check rpm after a while it should be between .75 to 1. Then while driv9ng listen to wheels for any bearing issues. 4th after ride check the end of exhaust for smoke cokor, white, blue and black
Remember that its a used car. Dont expect perfection. The Polo I purchased for 7800 was a repaired accident vehicle. They one in perfect condition was 28,000 with 0.2 miles.
My vehicle was in an accident - no frame damage just a door. It has a salvaged title. I have never had any problems with the car at all. Six years later, it is the best deal I have ever gotten - bought from a lady getting a divorce & she preferred her SUV she used to take her kids around. This luxury sedan is my dream car - bought at barely 4 years old & low miles.
Good stuff. I see others have more suggestions in comments. I smell the ATF, too. A burnt sugar smell can mean a very damaged transmission. I don't like to see a washed engine. Water and modern electronics are mortal enemies with delayed corrosion of electrical connectors. Same with evidence of water elsewhere like under floor and trunk mats. Engine vibration that disappears when transmission is in gear can = bad motor mounts.
I was about to make similar comments. Also check under the front floor mats for any water. Most people know that but it's wise to check under the trunk carpet, too. Some cars have very expensive electronic elements back there.
Don't forget to look for white smoke coming out of your exhaust and make sure your driver's seat works. You can smell burnt fluids too.
My friend brought with him one of those ODB2 thingy, plugged it in , looked on his iphone , unplugged it , and said let’s go. never asked him what up, this was years ago.. oh crap you just mentioned the obd2 thingy
Doesn't it bug you waht he saw? I wanna know now lol
9:12 if a timing belt breaks it could be catastrophic for your engine if it is an ”interference type” engine. There are cars with ”Non-Interference type” engines, if the belt brakes or skips, it just shuts down without causing damage.
over the past thirty yrs, almost all cars in the U.S. mkt increasingly became interference types, with either belts or chains. When the belt breaks, it's extremely likely that there is damage that financially 'totals' an not fresh/newer car. ALWAYS do the timing belt on time, and if not sure about its condition, get the cover off and inspect closely. When in doubt about it or the water pump that is part of the set-up with it, do it all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@18_rabbitalso if an used car dealer does not rewind the mileage on the car dashboard.
Real easy inspection . Look for the VIN stickers on the Fenders, Hood, and Doors. Most manufacturers put those stickers for ID purposes.No stickers mean part replacement, (Accidents) . Check the engine compartment for stains that could indicate a coolant overflow and overheating, and oil leaks. Look under the car for oil leaks, especially the pavement where the car has been regularly parked. It is best to get the car on a lift to really examine the undercarriage. Don't buy a rust bucket! Don't buy an oil soaked undercarriage! Also , examine each side of the car's paint, you should see your shadow clearly, like a mirror. Any change in the reflection means paint/body work. Test drive the car, listening for any noises or rattles, and see that the car drives straight (doesn't pull to one side), with no sounds when braking or turning (bad wheel bearings roar when turning) Check for sounds when going over uneven terrain, there should be no squeaking or bumping sounds that may indicate suspension issues. Ask the owner for a maintenance record. If he has none, you probably need to walk away. If the Tranny hasn't been serviced at LEAST every 75K miles, you may be in for a big repair. Last-------Don't want to buy a car you want so badly that you fail to inspect it properly! If you aren't qualified, take someone with you who is, even if you have to pay them a few bucks! For this info, No charge......
Also if you want to spend less for repairs then get yourself a car with less frills.
Blind spot monitors and stuff like that is sensitive.
My one is a naturally aspirated engine with a manual transmission and manual air conditioning.
Good video but for females I’d like to add some feedback…you mentioned what we should watch out for but there’s nothing to compare it to….for coolant is it to be oily and clear but not water, for the oil…what does the white and milky color look like? What does the good and bad look like by comparison that way we can visually get a mental picture of what’s good and what’s a no go! lol. Great video!
Great great video.
Specially the part that tells us about dash lights fraud. Thanks
This information is gold when looking for a used vehicle. I was an Autobody tech for 36 years and I would respectfully add a few more things to look out for. Budget Mechanic touched on what to look for where damage is concerned. I would add, look under the hood for any bolts, fender hood etc that look like they have been disturbed (paint chipping) This will indicate someone has undone these to possibly replace a fender or hood. If this has been done, what else was damaged. In the trunk, look into the wheel well area where the rear end panel and floor meet, does this area look undisturbed. If you see any signs of buckling, sealer replaced this could indicate damage. Last is, if the vehicle milage has been tampered with. Look up the vehicle history report. This will let you know about milage and if the vehicle has been involved in a REPORTED accident. If the vehicle was damaged and no insurance company was involved with it's repair, this damage will NOT show up on the report. The most common accidents are front and rear, hence you look there first. Then open all the doors, again look for disturbed bolts, doors not aligned properly etc. Good luck everybody.
As life long gearhead I got scammed a while back buying used Honda CRV...I thought everything looked good until I took it to a tire shop and discovered a bent control arm and a very worn rear tired. It can happen!!
One thing I always do before buying a car remove the radiator cap, start the car, if the coolant burst out while starting the car, don't buy it, the cooling should sit in the radiator at least a minute, without rising.
Hi wondering if you might have an answer. I went to look at a used car and guy knew I was coming, but when I got there, the car was very warm as he had just taken it to the post office. Even though he had another car. It's bad news if the engine is running when you get there right? So what if it's been very recently driven?
Yes, the person is hiding several things, a cold start, where you do not hear all of the components engage to support an engine start which has more friction/resistance, access to fluids that get hot, ie radiator fluid, access to engine that will burn you. A cold transmission engagement will feel bad, but same transmission warm could feel normal. Electric load issues are masked as well, less engine demand. I am certain I am missing things, but yes, the seller is inconsiderate at best or hiding things at worst.
@@gwilli1754 Thanks for your Good reasons to inspect car fluids first while engine is cold, then start it the first time yourself before test drive. And check for codes with a scanner before you start it, and after test drive maybe too. Perhaps this is why some used cars being advertised by used lot sellers say "by appointment only", so they can clear codes & warm it up before you get there. So much to learn.
Good advice,but update there are non expensive scanners that scan in modules and can diagnose the SRS system as well as operate the module associated with it.Just look around,buy it once have it for a lifetime as long as the manufacturer supports updates,
Also, don't go online and make an appointment to see a particular car. That gives them a chance to go "spruce " it up, air it out and let it run for a while to warm the engine. You want to see it start up after it's set a while and been closed up.
Extremely helpful video. You are so professional in your voice and in your information. Thank you.
Another thing would be doing a vehicle owner search. This is to ensure that the car you are buying is not a stolen car. Do everything to know the person behind a vehicle identification number (VIN) or a license plate number. The car theft rate in the U.S. stood at 246 cases per 100,000 residents. Just by these numbers, you should verify all cars sold to your business, as you may get fined and face lawsuits for buying stolen cars.
How do you do a vehicle owner search? the dealership I was at wouldn’t give out that information..
Bring someone with you, ask to see and hold the title. Have your partner read the VIN from the dash and verify it matches the VIN on the title. also, slowly look the title over and look for any "Leins". Many DMV's/Secretary of State will allow you to enter the VIN in and see if the title is "clear & free". Open the trunk and look for signs the car has been rearended, row down all windows to see if they operate properly. Ask if you can take the car to a mechanic just to see what the seller says or how they act.
The one about the stored codes is one that 99% of people miss! Even though there is no light on, the seller could have just reset it and hopes you won’t check it.
I just fell for it a month ago. Vehicle left me stranded in the middle of nowhere, pitch black. This happened 2 days after purchase. First time buying used, found out even the history report was false. These cons can beat almost any system. I could sue (every single thing he had in the ad was fraudulent), I just rather pay the repair ($3,000!!!!!) and don’t want to see this person again.
@@ThisIsMyUA-camName1 Thank God you had 3,000 to pay to get it fixed🙏🏾 sorry for your loss!
@@ThisIsMyUA-camName1 you really should sue IMHO. By not suing, you’re guaranteeing that piece of shit will continue to scam people just like you in the future.
•
Please, do it for the sake of the innocent that will get ‘robbed’ by this person 🙏🏻
@@AustrianEconomist the problem with it is there isn’t much money for profit, so no lawyer would take my case.
@@gregoryswift7804 Thank god?
Great tips and I followed all of them recently after driving my used car 300 miles home
Timing is everything
Also when checking the tires make sure the tires are all the same size and make. Also check the four digit numbers that appear together in a group. These are the week and year those tires were made. Thanks for the video it was informative.
Great video with great tips for the average person to know!
The first car I ever bought for myself had amazing A/C that was so good, it could keep ice cream from melting in 90f degree weather for a few hours, and really good sound system that was powerful enough to drown out all those bass-beaters out there. It was fun to drown out booming-bass-beat with Beethoven-Bass-Cello if it came down to someone being rude about it (in residential areas and gas stations)... But that was literally all it had going for it. Nearly everything else about that stupid thing was a disaster.
To this day, I'm seriously peeved at the dealership that sold me the dang thing. I had to take it to 5 different shops (2 of which were OTHER dealerships) just to sort out a really weird and strong shimmy that happened between 63 and 68 MPH. Turned out it was after market rims of some sort, but it took FIVE repair shops to figure that out? Gah! Never again. I'll pay a trusted mechanic to test drive a car WITH me before there is a "next time" I buy used... lol
You mean the car was shaking when you got to those speeds? And aftermarket rims? Yeah sounds like you needed to get hub rings. Did you fix the issue?
Was my very first car of my own, way back in 2006-ish. Took it to 2 repair shops, AND two dealerships; over the course of half a year. And the last one finally figured out what was going on (which was that it had after-market rims) and we (family) got them replaced. But that was some expensive work having 4 different places "have a look at it" and then the actual repair. I wasn't exactly torn up later when it needed to be retired... But it had served me well enough through my early work-years.
The very first thing I check on any used car is for rust and rot on the rocker panels. That's a deal breaker every time
I bought a used 2008 Pilot 3 1/2 years ago for $5,000..Love it...Heated seats, moon roof, great car..Wish it got better mileage, but I only drive it maybe 3,000 miles a year..I am tempted to buy a new vehicle, but they just aren't worth the money they are asking...We also have a 2019 Honda CRV...It gets 25-30 miles per gallon..It too is a good car..
How comes that this guy doesn't have more views?
If car has been flooded check the seat belt if there's water line especially cars nowadays coming from the East coast hurricane flooded.
Good check flood damage tip
Subscribed! Thank you sooo much for this valuable information. You are saving lives out here my man, thank you
Thanks for the subscribe, glad I can help 🤙🏽
Honest and solid advices. Not click bait. 🎉
Here for you!
Bro, you got such a cool video. I wish I had watched this before I purchased an old car :(
I am surprised the braking system was not mentioned. It is important and expensive if needing maintenance and/or repair.
Maybe its a older ford thing but brakes are normally one of the cheaper and certainly easiest system to maintence and fix
That was good, two thigs I would add, sometimes you can tell if the vehicle has had body work by noticing a slightly different shade of paint from one body componant to another , such as where the rear 1/4 panel meets the door , or the hood to the fender . Also , when you turn the ignotion forward but before you get to the point where the vehicle will turn over all of the dash indicator lights should be on . I have heard of cases where a crafty selle ( usually a dealer )r had a way of getting the inspection sticker, then would disconect the " check engine light " so it would look like it was off . Te problem is , the next time . like next years inspection , the reader is plugged in , it will show a code even though the light is off .
Very informative video. Im on a market of used car and all tips really makes sense. Thanks for this content and will keep this in mind when im hunting for used car. 👌
Open radiator cap and turn on car..watch for bubbles coming up. Could be head gasket
Really love and appreciate the checklist in the beginning ❤️
Hope it helps!
Inspect the undercarriage and brake system and fluid color. Also power steering fluid and look for fluid leaks.
SUPERB video! Thank you! I just subscribed as I am in the market to buy a used minivan.
I have saved myself from ALOT of lemons by asking to take it to a mechanic first...also my mother had a father who was a mechanic so he taught her alot and she knew what to look for when car shopping and buying! I saved this video because your spot on!😮🎉
With all due respect, is that realistic? My mechanic doesn't even work on weekends. And you're also assuming the distance to your mechanic is reasonable. What if the car is 50 miles away? Plus a mechanic should be paid to inspect a car. Lots of things to consider. :)
@@djmartinez5054 in MY situations YES..
@@djmartinez5054 Doesn't work for everyone but I've been around a long time and would never buy a used car without a PPI.
This is the the video I am sending to friends and relatives who are or will be buying a used car BIG THANKS.
Thanks a lot Budget....you mentioned some things that I would not have thought of so thank you!
Please remember that God loves you and wants you to love Him enough to be with Him forever by abandoning your ways and letting Him bring His ways into your life. 🙂 ...thanks again for the help. 🙂
Look for manufacturers stickers or markings on body panels and windows
Make sure VIN on door sticker matches windshield, windoes, engine.
This was super helpful!!! Pretty sure i got suckered into the car i just bought.... but his will prevent thay for the future!
I checked everything on this video plus some things not mentioned like blue smoke when accelerating hard ( had someone behind me to check the tailpipe ) , it took me 3 hours & then I found the blinker fluid was dirty & had never been changed , glad I walked away , hardly anyone seems to do this simple maintenance job 👍
I don’t know how I feel about all this…
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii I achieved my goal 😉😄😄😄
And don't forget "the piston return springs".
@@wholeNwon Yeah , if there dodgy , the engine is probably Kangaroo Edward , Roo-Ted 😉
I think bringing portable plastic ramps so you can drive up and inspect under the car for leaks and rust is a great idea.
Thank you for a great video. Simple and clear. Subscribed from Canada.
Nice one, Josh. Thanks for sharing some great tips! :)
My pleasure 🤙🏽
Subscribed 😊.... Thank you for making such informative and enjoyable videos, where one can learn a lot of new things.... Keep up the good work brother 👍👍
These were some excellent tips, thank you! Very comprehensive.
If your buying a nice car, service history and tyres, do they match, are they a premium brand. 4 x pirellis or continental half worn are a great indication the car has been cared for
Check blow by removing cap and place it back without tightening and see ifsmoke is coming out and the cap is fluttering. Put peice of card board under enging and check for coolent, oil dripping. Look up common problems with this car on UA-cam, Take the car to a mechanic and have pre purchase inspection.
Good tip... start a cold engine with the radiator cap loosened... but what problem does it indicate, if the water spurts out immediately, instead of it happening after a minute?
For older cars, more than 15 years old, that were stored outside, for brighter colors, the paint on the outside should be duller than the covered frame paint, since it did not get the same sun exposure, and consistent in dullness. If there is an outside area that is not as dull, pay attention to that are, look below to see all the clips, and work being done. For an older car that was taken care of, may not necessarily mean much, for example a car that I sold that I still miss, had that feature, as it was bumped while backing up, and I did the body work myself. Not being an expert, I was a bit generous with bondo and aluminum plating behind it, but I did a good job with it, came out surprisingly well. I disclosed it to a buyer who was just wanting to not pay for a maintained car, that obviously had TLC in it, and the guy who was impressed with my work got it. I would gladly take a low mileage high trim Camry from early 2000s than one from now, the interiors and engines are not what they used to be back in the day.
Good tip about exposed paint dulling, vs, new paint from a repair, and paint that was protected like inside door frames. Another vid said to check inside gas cap for paint of a different color or quality as a sign of repair too, and under the bottom window seal along where it sits on the door.
Never flush an automatic transmission. It can cause more problems. Only drain and refill.
Yes, and use lucas trans fix
@@dommopa4464 No.
Old cars yes if you take it too a shop just ask them to replace the filter and the fluid that came out don’t do a flush
Yeah, that's where I tell UA-cam not to recommend this channel to me any more...
This video confuses a lot of people. It is simply far from realistic
Some really good tips! Thank you.
Wow these were great tips. The funny thing is that almost every used car seller thinks that 125,000 miles on a car is "low miles"! I guess "low miles" should really apply to a car that have 50K-80K. Those are rare.
It’s all relative I suppose!
What would be the best scan tool to get that can read ALL code and retain all the data a car gives them?
I personally got burned by not checking the OIL on a truck that I purchased. I should have done so and I even did so on prior vehicle purchases, but the one time I did not it got me. Also heater core problems can relate to the a/c system if both the a/c evaporator and heat core are housed in the same box that is attached to the firewall of the car, the those that don't know it it means you have to disconnect both just to replace one or the other. The means if the heater core leaks that is just as bad as the A/C not working.
Thank you so much. I found your video incredibly so helpful and informative.
I got scammed by a used car dealer when I was younger. Even the kid filling my gas noticed the car needed an oil change. The car broke down on the way home. Big lesson learned.
I checked out a 2008 Toyota Avalon 3 weeks ago and when I turned the ignition switch to on, all the lights came on and when I started the car up, they all STAYED ON. So I went and pop the hood to listen to the engine, it had a very noticeable tick. When I say in the car it had a funk smell to it, like mildew and when I walked around the car looking at the it looked like it was used as a bumper car. No this car only had 76,000 miles on it, needless to say this was a Ft. Myers special (AKA flood car). This dealer had a whole lot full of them, I looked at 3 Lexus cars and the Toyota and all four had that funky smell to their interiors. They were also all low miles, but they looked like bumper cars too, beware these cars are out there and there are a lot of them. Oh I looked at another Lexus IS250 on another lot and ran my finger on the inside of the exhaust pipe, heavy carbon build up, it was running really rich, the car also had lowering struts on it, this being a rear wheel drive car, I wouldn't doubt it was used by a previous owner as a part time drifter.
Did you get a carbon flush?
Good tip to check exhaust pipe for black residue. And mold smell, so many flood cars out there.
Bottom chassis rust. I got burned on a Ford Ranger. I couldn't even get it inspected. It was about to break in two. And I can't believe he didn't cover burning oil. These are the two worst problems-- not mentioned.
Check the tailpipe. If it’s covered with black dusty stuff that means it burns oil.
This is a good video and the information is presented well.
If you want to know if the car you're looking at needs a timing belt replacement, make sure it's not a timing chain. Search for "timing belt or chain", it will tell you which one it has.
Wow
It's indeed very helpful . God bless you
Also make sure they’ve been putting premium air in the tires, not that regular crap
Do you mean nitrogen in the tires?
Thanks a lot, I don't know anything about cars and I am in need to buy one, so this vid definitely helped me a bit :D
2 reasons why someone would be selling their vehicle: 1) Not wanted or 2) Not needed/used). Majority of the time, it is because it is not wanted even if they got a new vehicle you might want to find out what compelled them to get a new one because people don't typically look into replacing or upgrading a vehicle they are happy with, right? You will need to be a sleuth and find out why exactly they are selling it. The initial reason(s) they give you just for the asking is often not the real thing or not entirely. Much like a resume 98% of the sellers will lie or at least exaggerate a good thing or undermine an issue. Typically, I would try to get a feel for the seller's vibe and behavior. If the seller is not saying much or saying too much or seems too eager or nervous, to me each is a red flag. Ultimately, if you don't like the seller's attitude or something doesn't feel right, just walk away. There are more vehicles out there, don't rush and end up buying a lemon.
look around at the wiring harness+connections! nothing worse than intermittent electrical problems,bear in mind that if the ecu is bad finding another one may be impossible.
Good tip check wiring harness + connections, and ECU availability. Parts in general.
Great Video Mate , has given me some good tips 🇦🇺
My friend bought a used 2013 Honda civic from dealership with 98,000 miles on it for $10,000 and paid $800 for registration and taxes. Since then he is spending money on the car every month. He changed engine mounts one month, next month he changed VTEC solenoid, MAP sensor, cleaned MAF sensor. next month he said transmission not shifting smooth he changed transmission oil 3 times 3 quarts every time, transmission solenoids, then he changed tensioner, serpentine belt, then water pump, Chaned brakes, rotors, he did valve adjustments, now he said timing jumped by 2 teeth. HELL of a time. Waste of time. Buy brand new, use for 90000 miles sell and get new one. No used car.
You have 30k laying around for me to buy a new car ?
But then everyone says if you buy new it’s bad news because you’re wasting money due to almost immediate depreciation of car….
Check the coolant.
My cousin and I went to buy a truck, owner said it had no coolant in it (didn't matter cause it was minus 20celcius that day)
I insisted on checking anyway. Coolant tank was full of stop leak crud. There was no room to poor water/coolant in. Did not buy
Yikes!
Brilliant ! Doesn't take much in the cognitive area to figure this one out,; now does it ?
Great video! Im looking for a cargo van to haul my miniature horses, so I definitely want something safe and in decent condition. The tips you shared will help me determine if the van I'm interested in is worth spending the $ for my mechanic to do a prepurchase inspection. Thanks!
Wow you are so lucky,haveing cute horses,,i dont even have a Cat!Maybe i should get a rabbit,what you think?