Shit I thought I had nothing better to do than watch UA-cam videos but you take it to the next level you watch and take notes dam you got too much time ⏲️ haha
I would also add look under the car for any bad rust, check the steering to the the full extend left and right. Turn on as many accessories as you can while stressing the steering, this should put the highest electrical load on the car and maybe reveal some problems. Also look at the shocks and struts for leaks and rust, look at the ball joints. Look at the rotors. Do some hard breaking, check that the abs is working. Check the panel gaps for evenness. Check the passenger side floor for any dampness.
Yes, yes, yes. I got burned on a Ford Ranger. I couldn't even get it inspected. It was about to break in two. And I can't believe he didn't cover burning oil. These are the two worst problems-- not mentioned.
Great video. Very much needed. I was scammed by a used car dealer before and now I’m about to purchase another vehicle on my own. No one showed me these things and unfortunately I have no men in my life. Thanks for helping me
There are free check lists on line that you can take with you. But FIRST be sure that the seller is the registered owner with a clear title IN HAND. Not someone "selling for a relative or neighbor". Don't bother if they can't pass that test. Must have all service records in hand. IF the car passes all of those very basic tests, get a good PPI (prepurchase inspection) by your own trusted mechanic. You can ask over the phone whether the seller will agree to that if the car passes your basic review. If he won't, just walk away. There are LOTS of cars out there. NEVER hesitate to move on. NEVER even bother to look at unreliable makes or models. Stick to Toyota, some Honda and Mazda models.
If they sell it for someone and the deal is tempting, ask them if the registered owner can be present because I've sold my dad's car twice in the last five years and bought the last three cars for him to avoid that he's getting ripped off because he would be free lunch for any car dealer. Of course our family name is the same and that convinced the last buyer.
Something not mentioned: smell the dipstick, oil filler cap and filler hole if you can get to it. I recently passed up a Mustang GT because the oil reeked of gasoline. This can indicate bad compression/ oil scavenging rings, and/ or bad valves and valve seats, allowing fuel/air mixture into the oil galleys of your engine, accelerating wear throughout the entire engine.
Hate to tell you this, but smell of gas in oil means bad fuel pump. Also check for foam in radiator means bad head gasket. If your car is running rich, means air/fuel mixture is incorrect for carb in my time, but newer garbage means bad fuel injectors and this will cause bad rings,comprehension and consumption. Any vehicle you beat on will cause motor damage. Oh when we didn't have catalytic converters I used a pint of Valvoline tranny fluid in my gas, then changed plugs after, and this was done to protect the engine. Also old school real mechanics also knew you could use moth balls to bring the octane up in gas, but can't with new cars. Just a female perspective. Today the gas they make us use is destroying are cars. Proof is in all the older cars and trucks still around.
Terrifically helpful material. I am the (retired) managing editor of an auto magazine, and producer of a syndicated automotive radio show (remember them???). I can state with absolute certainty that this advice is solid. I would add: SMELL CHECK... if the interior smells like mold, WALK AWAY. Pull up the carpet. Do you see water damage or residue? WALK AWAY.
I bought 2015 Dodge Dart flood damage. The interior had dirt and was moldy. I got to work and cleaned the inside. Best car I’ve ever bought. Moldy interior could be roof leak which is typical of cars with panorama sunroof. That is one hell of an expense!!
I'd call this good advice, though oddly I always suggest bringing someone you trust along when you look a vehicle over. Your less likely to be bullied, rushed, and an extra set of eyes is handy, even if they're not car experts. I try and pick friends with a good BS meter first, and mechanically inclined second.
Few things to add. Do a background check on the owner of the used car dealership. Look at carpets for water stains and smell for odors. You can decide on if you want to purchase a history report or a carfax, but don’t put much faith in the accuracy. Highly suggest buying an OBDII, a $40 one will do. And do not ever sign anything that states “as is”. Everything he says is true! You need to really search for damages. If they claim it’s never been in an accident and the seals aren’t aligning, RUN!
@@leasea9621 so many things can be hidden. I purchased a vehicle, 2 days later I was stranded in the middle of nowhere in the dark. Brought the vehicle back to the dealership the next day and it was $3,500 to fix. When leaving the dealership, everything seemed perfect. 2 days and I’m paying that much to repair it? After speaking with multiple attorneys they all warned me to never buy “as is” .
UPDATE! I had a very experienced mechanic and body shop guy fully inspect my vehicle. Clean title, but it’s been in at least three collisions. Front drivers side was the hardest hit, it got t-boned on the passenger side and rear ended on the driver’s side. Due to all this, every time it rains, I know I have an expensive repair coming. Last week I had to replace my headlight ($105) and today I have 15 codes. Only 4 months since I left my comment and repairs far exceed the cost of the vehicle. BE CAREFUL
@@ThisIsMyUA-camName1 wow I'm sorry that happened to you. Make sure you decide whether or not the car is worth fixing to avoid wasting more money. Also if your car has low mileage you may qualify to add a third party extended warranty
@@lilman4067 I did have a third party warranty, but it didn’t cover things that needed to be replaced. Since my last comment, the vehicle is now a complete loss. Mechanic said my head gasket is blown, despite no sign of oil being contaminated and the vehicle has never once ran hot. Never had any issues with oil leaking and coolant is full. I don’t understand why or how, but my credit union has started to investigate (no auto fraud attorneys will even reply to us, so hopefully they can get something resolved). I don’t want anyone going through this. The economy is bad enough, to get scammed out of $9k? It’s sick
I keep a spreadsheet on all my maintenance and repairs that includes date, mileage and a good description (and cost) of what was done. It really makes it easy to keep up with things and provides an easy way to look back to see just what and when something was done. Put your VIN at the top for easy reference as at times you will need that info. You can also include a macro to tell you when your next oil change is due if you separate oil changes from repairs by column
Or you could follow the manufacturers service schedule. They built it, they test it and have so much more education about the vehicles they build than anyone else.
@@albybloke2289 I dont even care Im 2 months late, what the hell are you on about dude. They legit were talking about nothing but tracking maintence on their car. Nothing about the specifics like how many miles until the oil change, so you either horribly misunderstood or are just openly assuming because of something they said. You know what they say about assuming...
I feel that both pieces of advice are compatible with each other. Regulations around cars vary throughout the world. I live in New Zealand where there is a relatively high number of imported 2nd hand cars that are owned for longer than countries like Britain, Japan, or USA. Many of those cars are not serviced by a branded dealer. Some mechanics put the onus on the customer to maintain a history of what has been done to their car. I suggest that this video is aiming towards people with little experience of cars, like myself.
Also Look at the seller face carefully ...is the person honest, is the person look like a caring person, is the person clean,is the car clean correctly, is the oil dripping, is the engine bay clean, does all the windows roll up correctly....there is a lot you can learn about the car you are buying because of the owner appearance.
You’re the text book definition of don’t judge a book by its cover, my 01 dodge dakota with 265,000 miles was purchased from An awkward & fairly dirty guy living in his car. He mainted it meticulously, it was his only form of housing and transportation. At you’re logic a dealership is the way to go
Excellent video. I would add to tires to check the DOT numbers that will tell you the year and week that tire was manufactured. Sometimes the tread looks great, but the tire is ten years old because the car was garaged or not driven much. Tires over five years need to be replaced, regardless of the tread depth.
The 5 year replacement guideline is variable. It is sun and heat that cause the issues. If in northern US or Canada, and especially if the car was kept in a garage -- 10 years on a tire should be fine. And not unheard of if the car has two sets of tires -- summer and winter -- and hence neither set gets used for the full mileage in a year.
Depends more on the tyre's exposure to deteriorating elements (e.g. temperature changes, extreme temperatures, sun etc). Even if only 4 years old, they can be cracking and can be dangerous in the wet. Meanwhile another car can have 10 year old tyres that may just be starting to crack or have no cracks.
Good video, but you failed to mention how easy it is to Photoshop maintenance records and they're worth nothing unless you have a relationship with the shop on the paperwork. You can pretty much assume someone selling a used car is lying to you. This holds especially true to car flippers.
Remember that its a used car. Dont expect perfection. The Polo I purchased for 7800 was a repaired accident vehicle. They one in perfect condition was 28,000 with 0.2 miles.
This is the best video on UA-cam...I don't know why it doesn't have millions views. The only thing I would add is about how to check for flooded cars but I guess there is no flood in Hawaii.
I wished I had the common sense to learn from videos like yours before buying my used car! Everything was perfect until the fan belt broke, water tank and pipe leaked, radiator leaked, and the damn workshop had to fix all other weary parts and everything cost me a BOMB 😢
I've been working at a body shop for a bit now and extra tips I learned was if you're painting the door, it's better to take off the mirror and belt molding (the trim at the bottom of the window) for a better paint job in the end. The mirror can get in the way, and if you're unlucky, the clear coat could stick in that gap between the door and the belt molding.
Great tips. Thanks so much. I’m currently in the market for a used mini van but they’re so expensive and I don’t want to get burned. I feel educated on what to look for .
great video man! I just bought mine yesterday for 4000 USD with 93k Miles on it. No noises at all, plus the owner got installed a brand new the power steering system.
Knowing how to read 4 digit DOT date code on tires is helpful 💡 Mismatched tires and El Cheapo no name tires are a red flag imo CarFax, AutoCheck, etc, are not always accurate I looked at a 17k mile Toyota with a clean history that had the entire front end and windshield had been replaced Repair was nicely done, but no way to determine if air bags were replaced
i Bought a 2005 Honda Accord with 197,000 miles for 3,000 bucks because it had a small ugly scrape on the front and rear bumpers, the original 1 owner lady said she was not the best person to park a car, LOL it was obvious, but thats why i got a great car for so Cheap, that was 4 years ago and the car now has 213,000 miles and still drives and runs like new.
One thing I always do before buying a car remove the radiator cap, start the car, if the coolant burst out while starting the car, don't buy it, the cooling should sit in the radiator at least a minute, without rising.
Hi wondering if you might have an answer. I went to look at a used car and guy knew I was coming, but when I got there, the car was very warm as he had just taken it to the post office. Even though he had another car. It's bad news if the engine is running when you get there right? So what if it's been very recently driven?
Yes, the person is hiding several things, a cold start, where you do not hear all of the components engage to support an engine start which has more friction/resistance, access to fluids that get hot, ie radiator fluid, access to engine that will burn you. A cold transmission engagement will feel bad, but same transmission warm could feel normal. Electric load issues are masked as well, less engine demand. I am certain I am missing things, but yes, the seller is inconsiderate at best or hiding things at worst.
9:12 if a timing belt breaks it could be catastrophic for your engine if it is an ”interference type” engine. There are cars with ”Non-Interference type” engines, if the belt brakes or skips, it just shuts down without causing damage.
over the past thirty yrs, almost all cars in the U.S. mkt increasingly became interference types, with either belts or chains. When the belt breaks, it's extremely likely that there is damage that financially 'totals' an not fresh/newer car. ALWAYS do the timing belt on time, and if not sure about its condition, get the cover off and inspect closely. When in doubt about it or the water pump that is part of the set-up with it, do it all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
As life long gearhead I got scammed a while back buying used Honda CRV...I thought everything looked good until I took it to a tire shop and discovered a bent control arm and a very worn rear tired. It can happen!!
Also if you want to spend less for repairs then get yourself a car with less frills. Blind spot monitors and stuff like that is sensitive. My one is a naturally aspirated engine with a manual transmission and manual air conditioning.
The one about the stored codes is one that 99% of people miss! Even though there is no light on, the seller could have just reset it and hopes you won’t check it.
I just fell for it a month ago. Vehicle left me stranded in the middle of nowhere, pitch black. This happened 2 days after purchase. First time buying used, found out even the history report was false. These cons can beat almost any system. I could sue (every single thing he had in the ad was fraudulent), I just rather pay the repair ($3,000!!!!!) and don’t want to see this person again.
@@ThisIsMyUA-camName1 you really should sue IMHO. By not suing, you’re guaranteeing that piece of shit will continue to scam people just like you in the future. • Please, do it for the sake of the innocent that will get ‘robbed’ by this person 🙏🏻
Another thing would be doing a vehicle owner search. This is to ensure that the car you are buying is not a stolen car. Do everything to know the person behind a vehicle identification number (VIN) or a license plate number. The car theft rate in the U.S. stood at 246 cases per 100,000 residents. Just by these numbers, you should verify all cars sold to your business, as you may get fined and face lawsuits for buying stolen cars.
Good stuff. I see others have more suggestions in comments. I smell the ATF, too. A burnt sugar smell can mean a very damaged transmission. I don't like to see a washed engine. Water and modern electronics are mortal enemies with delayed corrosion of electrical connectors. Same with evidence of water elsewhere like under floor and trunk mats. Engine vibration that disappears when transmission is in gear can = bad motor mounts.
I was about to make similar comments. Also check under the front floor mats for any water. Most people know that but it's wise to check under the trunk carpet, too. Some cars have very expensive electronic elements back there.
My friend brought with him one of those ODB2 thingy, plugged it in , looked on his iphone , unplugged it , and said let’s go. never asked him what up, this was years ago.. oh crap you just mentioned the obd2 thingy
I checked everything on this video plus some things not mentioned like blue smoke when accelerating hard ( had someone behind me to check the tailpipe ) , it took me 3 hours & then I found the blinker fluid was dirty & had never been changed , glad I walked away , hardly anyone seems to do this simple maintenance job 👍
I have saved myself from ALOT of lemons by asking to take it to a mechanic first...also my mother had a father who was a mechanic so he taught her alot and she knew what to look for when car shopping and buying! I saved this video because your spot on!😮🎉
With all due respect, is that realistic? My mechanic doesn't even work on weekends. And you're also assuming the distance to your mechanic is reasonable. What if the car is 50 miles away? Plus a mechanic should be paid to inspect a car. Lots of things to consider. :)
The first car I ever bought for myself had amazing A/C that was so good, it could keep ice cream from melting in 90f degree weather for a few hours, and really good sound system that was powerful enough to drown out all those bass-beaters out there. It was fun to drown out booming-bass-beat with Beethoven-Bass-Cello if it came down to someone being rude about it (in residential areas and gas stations)... But that was literally all it had going for it. Nearly everything else about that stupid thing was a disaster. To this day, I'm seriously peeved at the dealership that sold me the dang thing. I had to take it to 5 different shops (2 of which were OTHER dealerships) just to sort out a really weird and strong shimmy that happened between 63 and 68 MPH. Turned out it was after market rims of some sort, but it took FIVE repair shops to figure that out? Gah! Never again. I'll pay a trusted mechanic to test drive a car WITH me before there is a "next time" I buy used... lol
Was my very first car of my own, way back in 2006-ish. Took it to 2 repair shops, AND two dealerships; over the course of half a year. And the last one finally figured out what was going on (which was that it had after-market rims) and we (family) got them replaced. But that was some expensive work having 4 different places "have a look at it" and then the actual repair. I wasn't exactly torn up later when it needed to be retired... But it had served me well enough through my early work-years.
Excellent. I live near hills in California. Taking a test drive that includes steep hills is a good way to feel transmission slipping. And I learned only recently (after driving for 50 years) that the engine needs to be running when you check your transmission fluid level.
I would add, check the undercarriage of the vehicle for rust, stretch out the seat belt and check if the belt has same color or different, if dirty means the car was flooded, check the door alignment to the vehicle's body alignment, boot alignment, everywhere it should have same gap.. thank you..🎉❤
Good video but for females I’d like to add some feedback…you mentioned what we should watch out for but there’s nothing to compare it to….for coolant is it to be oily and clear but not water, for the oil…what does the white and milky color look like? What does the good and bad look like by comparison that way we can visually get a mental picture of what’s good and what’s a no go! lol. Great video!
Very informative video. Im on a market of used car and all tips really makes sense. Thanks for this content and will keep this in mind when im hunting for used car. 👌
Good advice,but update there are non expensive scanners that scan in modules and can diagnose the SRS system as well as operate the module associated with it.Just look around,buy it once have it for a lifetime as long as the manufacturer supports updates,
Check springs ( suspension) by hand and body press for bounce, check any suspension leakage. Start engine and check rpm after a while it should be between .75 to 1. Then while driv9ng listen to wheels for any bearing issues. 4th after ride check the end of exhaust for smoke cokor, white, blue and black
My friend bought a used 2013 Honda civic from dealership with 98,000 miles on it for $10,000 and paid $800 for registration and taxes. Since then he is spending money on the car every month. He changed engine mounts one month, next month he changed VTEC solenoid, MAP sensor, cleaned MAF sensor. next month he said transmission not shifting smooth he changed transmission oil 3 times 3 quarts every time, transmission solenoids, then he changed tensioner, serpentine belt, then water pump, Chaned brakes, rotors, he did valve adjustments, now he said timing jumped by 2 teeth. HELL of a time. Waste of time. Buy brand new, use for 90000 miles sell and get new one. No used car.
Thanks a lot Budget....you mentioned some things that I would not have thought of so thank you! Please remember that God loves you and wants you to love Him enough to be with Him forever by abandoning your ways and letting Him bring His ways into your life. 🙂 ...thanks again for the help. 🙂
Buying a used car is a risk, because not everybody out there is honest. I have been scammed by an indian dealership in Texas with a car. The dealer put bent truck rims/tires on the car and on my way to my home state the car was wobbling on the highway. People were even honking at me on the highway to let me know that the car was not riding correctly. On the title the mileage was crossed out and I had a difficult time registering it with motor vehicles. They advised me to make a complaint with motor vehicles in Texas against the dealership. I also found out that the car had been involved in two car accidents and somehow this was not showing up on the title of the car. I also learned that it had a different color than the one that it had. It was a bad experience. I will complain against them for sure. Buying a new car is extremely expensive, unless you are super rich. There is no escape from all the dishonest people out there. Everybody wants to make a buck out of anything nowadays. Your channel is a huge help to those who do not know much about cars. Thank you.
I just bought a Ford Fusion SE for 4,000 with 153,346 miles it looks and runs like new the dealer owned it from new and took good care of it, so I always pray asking the Lord to bless n protect me from scams. My last car was a 2002 Sebring convertible which I had 11 years that I prayed for, I didn’t test drive it, I just paid cash and drove it home in Pa. No problems at all just change tires oil brakes and new convertible top. You can’t even trust to many mechanics these days they just wanna get paid, but I can trust the Lord🙏🏾
Subscribed 😊.... Thank you for making such informative and enjoyable videos, where one can learn a lot of new things.... Keep up the good work brother 👍👍
2 reasons why someone would be selling their vehicle: 1) Not wanted or 2) Not needed/used). Majority of the time, it is because it is not wanted even if they got a new vehicle you might want to find out what compelled them to get a new one because people don't typically look into replacing or upgrading a vehicle they are happy with, right? You will need to be a sleuth and find out why exactly they are selling it. The initial reason(s) they give you just for the asking is often not the real thing or not entirely. Much like a resume 98% of the sellers will lie or at least exaggerate a good thing or undermine an issue. Typically, I would try to get a feel for the seller's vibe and behavior. If the seller is not saying much or saying too much or seems too eager or nervous, to me each is a red flag. Ultimately, if you don't like the seller's attitude or something doesn't feel right, just walk away. There are more vehicles out there, don't rush and end up buying a lemon.
If your buying a nice car, service history and tyres, do they match, are they a premium brand. 4 x pirellis or continental half worn are a great indication the car has been cared for
Also, don't go online and make an appointment to see a particular car. That gives them a chance to go "spruce " it up, air it out and let it run for a while to warm the engine. You want to see it start up after it's set a while and been closed up.
Wow these were great tips. The funny thing is that almost every used car seller thinks that 125,000 miles on a car is "low miles"! I guess "low miles" should really apply to a car that have 50K-80K. Those are rare.
Check blow by removing cap and place it back without tightening and see ifsmoke is coming out and the cap is fluttering. Put peice of card board under enging and check for coolent, oil dripping. Look up common problems with this car on UA-cam, Take the car to a mechanic and have pre purchase inspection.
I got scammed by a used car dealer when I was younger. Even the kid filling my gas noticed the car needed an oil change. The car broke down on the way home. Big lesson learned.
PRO TIP have the seller meet you at Josh's and pay for his inspection! (Or your own trusted mechanic) If the seller says no; you say NEXT! There's a reason $$$$$
If you want to know if the car you're looking at needs a timing belt replacement, make sure it's not a timing chain. Search for "timing belt or chain", it will tell you which one it has.
Bring someone with you, ask to see and hold the title. Have your partner read the VIN from the dash and verify it matches the VIN on the title. also, slowly look the title over and look for any "Leins". Many DMV's/Secretary of State will allow you to enter the VIN in and see if the title is "clear & free". Open the trunk and look for signs the car has been rearended, row down all windows to see if they operate properly. Ask if you can take the car to a mechanic just to see what the seller says or how they act.
I’m looking at an 06 impala and it drives great but only problem is the ac doesn’t blow cold air, how can I figure what’s wrong with it or should I just keep looking
look around at the wiring harness+connections! nothing worse than intermittent electrical problems,bear in mind that if the ecu is bad finding another one may be impossible.
I setup a pre-purchase inspection from an auto mechanic in the same township as the car dealership, he will only charge me $40!! Now I just have to worry about getting scammed on my pre-purchase inspection 😂
I checked out a 2008 Toyota Avalon 3 weeks ago and when I turned the ignition switch to on, all the lights came on and when I started the car up, they all STAYED ON. So I went and pop the hood to listen to the engine, it had a very noticeable tick. When I say in the car it had a funk smell to it, like mildew and when I walked around the car looking at the it looked like it was used as a bumper car. No this car only had 76,000 miles on it, needless to say this was a Ft. Myers special (AKA flood car). This dealer had a whole lot full of them, I looked at 3 Lexus cars and the Toyota and all four had that funky smell to their interiors. They were also all low miles, but they looked like bumper cars too, beware these cars are out there and there are a lot of them. Oh I looked at another Lexus IS250 on another lot and ran my finger on the inside of the exhaust pipe, heavy carbon build up, it was running really rich, the car also had lowering struts on it, this being a rear wheel drive car, I wouldn't doubt it was used by a previous owner as a part time drifter.
For older cars, more than 15 years old, that were stored outside, for brighter colors, the paint on the outside should be duller than the covered frame paint, since it did not get the same sun exposure, and consistent in dullness. If there is an outside area that is not as dull, pay attention to that are, look below to see all the clips, and work being done. For an older car that was taken care of, may not necessarily mean much, for example a car that I sold that I still miss, had that feature, as it was bumped while backing up, and I did the body work myself. Not being an expert, I was a bit generous with bondo and aluminum plating behind it, but I did a good job with it, came out surprisingly well. I disclosed it to a buyer who was just wanting to not pay for a maintained car, that obviously had TLC in it, and the guy who was impressed with my work got it. I would gladly take a low mileage high trim Camry from early 2000s than one from now, the interiors and engines are not what they used to be back in the day.
Wouldn't be a good idea to flush a functioning transmission that has very dirty fluid. That fluid is dirty because of the friction material that has worn away from the clutch packs. It needs that friction material that is suspended in the fluid to assist the clutch packs to engage. If you flush it out, the friction material will be significantly reduced, and can cause the transmission to slip.
That was good, two thigs I would add, sometimes you can tell if the vehicle has had body work by noticing a slightly different shade of paint from one body componant to another , such as where the rear 1/4 panel meets the door , or the hood to the fender . Also , when you turn the ignotion forward but before you get to the point where the vehicle will turn over all of the dash indicator lights should be on . I have heard of cases where a crafty selle ( usually a dealer )r had a way of getting the inspection sticker, then would disconect the " check engine light " so it would look like it was off . Te problem is , the next time . like next years inspection , the reader is plugged in , it will show a code even though the light is off .
Anybody who reads comments trust me he's absolutely right with everything esp the ending. DO NOT buy a modified car no matter what brand but in my experience especially a subaru. If you see a Cobb access port run and avoid it. You don't want anything that's had the ecu messed with. I try to tell ppp Cobb access ports are bad and ruin ur car. Always ask if they've used one. Always get a stock vehicle. You'd be surprised how damaged a front end can be from lowering coilovers or "bags" which are very expensive to replace and or wheels. No matter how big the list is of things they did to the car or replaced THEY ARE SELLING IT FOR A REASON! nobody is going to dumb thousands of $ into a car to just sell it. They are selling it because it's a money pit and they messed the car up and trying to get their money back an sell you a lemon.
What would be the best scan tool to get that can read ALL code and retain all the data a car gives them? I personally got burned by not checking the OIL on a truck that I purchased. I should have done so and I even did so on prior vehicle purchases, but the one time I did not it got me. Also heater core problems can relate to the a/c system if both the a/c evaporator and heat core are housed in the same box that is attached to the firewall of the car, the those that don't know it it means you have to disconnect both just to replace one or the other. The means if the heater core leaks that is just as bad as the A/C not working.
just got a car from a shop and its 6000 miles from 2014 with external damage and they fixed it and the car has been great for 3 months and then some heat shields noises are covered i think it was a great steal
0:30 Overview
0:40 Body match, dents, cosmetic dmg
1:06 Paint, hidden color
1:40 Tires
2:36 Hood.. Fluids
2:44 Coolant
3:52 Engine Oil
4:47 Transmission fluid
5:50 Test Drive
5:58 Instrument Panel, Dashboard Lights
6:37 Engine light.. ODB scanner reading
7:31 Airbag light
8:03 mileage, parts needing replacements
9:35 Seeing transmission gear shift problems
10:04 AC system
10:31 Unnecessary mods customs
You the real MVP, thank you. Wish YT let me copy this for my notes
@I am MVP
THANK YOU 💗
Shit I thought I had nothing better to do than watch UA-cam videos but you take it to the next level you watch and take notes dam you got too much time ⏲️ haha
Mitral Valvé Pró-Lãpsê
I would also add look under the car for any bad rust, check the steering to the the full extend left and right. Turn on as many accessories as you can while stressing the steering, this should put the highest electrical load on the car and maybe reveal some problems. Also look at the shocks and struts for leaks and rust, look at the ball joints. Look at the rotors. Do some hard breaking, check that the abs is working. Check the panel gaps for evenness. Check the passenger side floor for any dampness.
Rust is the worst we can always change an engine we can't change chassis
Yes, yes, yes. I got burned on a Ford Ranger. I couldn't even get it inspected. It was about to break in two. And I can't believe he didn't cover burning oil. These are the two worst problems-- not mentioned.
What is dampness in the passanger floor mean?
@@LeviWalton777Bad heater core
@@LeviWalton777 Rain water ingress. Bad seals etc
Great video. Very much needed. I was scammed by a used car dealer before and now I’m about to purchase another vehicle on my own. No one showed me these things and unfortunately I have no men in my life. Thanks for helping me
There are free check lists on line that you can take with you. But FIRST be sure that the seller is the registered owner with a clear title IN HAND. Not someone "selling for a relative or neighbor". Don't bother if they can't pass that test. Must have all service records in hand. IF the car passes all of those very basic tests, get a good PPI (prepurchase inspection) by your own trusted mechanic. You can ask over the phone whether the seller will agree to that if the car passes your basic review. If he won't, just walk away. There are LOTS of cars out there. NEVER hesitate to move on. NEVER even bother to look at unreliable makes or models.
Stick to Toyota, some Honda and Mazda models.
Just get a pre-purchase inspection!!
If they sell it for someone and the deal is tempting, ask them if the registered owner can be present because I've sold my dad's car twice in the last five years and bought the last three cars for him to avoid that he's getting ripped off because he would be free lunch for any car dealer.
Of course our family name is the same and that convinced the last buyer.
@@no-damn-alias "Do you have a clear title in your name in hand? No?" Don't bother looking at the car.
@@wholeNwon not a US citizen. What's the difference between a clear and non clear title and what might cause what?
Something not mentioned: smell the dipstick, oil filler cap and filler hole if you can get to it. I recently passed up a Mustang GT because the oil reeked of gasoline. This can indicate bad compression/ oil scavenging rings, and/ or bad valves and valve seats, allowing fuel/air mixture into the oil galleys of your engine, accelerating wear throughout the entire engine.
Or you know the car running rich, and the dude flooring the car around alot as well, you are always going to get some gas dilution in a motor.
Good point.
Hate to tell you this, but smell of gas in oil means bad fuel pump. Also check for foam in radiator means bad head gasket. If your car is running rich, means air/fuel mixture is incorrect for carb in my time, but newer garbage means bad fuel injectors and this will cause bad rings,comprehension and consumption. Any vehicle you beat on will cause motor damage. Oh when we didn't have catalytic converters I used a pint of Valvoline tranny fluid in my gas, then changed plugs after, and this was done to protect the engine. Also old school real mechanics also knew you could use moth balls to bring the octane up in gas, but can't with new cars. Just a female perspective. Today the gas they make us use is destroying are cars. Proof is in all the older cars and trucks still around.
Should also smell the transmission fluid if it smells burnt may be an overheating transmission costly repairs there as well..
Or it’s just oil dilution like on Honda civic, which is baddd
Terrifically helpful material. I am the (retired) managing editor of an auto magazine, and producer of a syndicated automotive radio show (remember them???). I can state with absolute certainty that this advice is solid. I would add: SMELL CHECK... if the interior smells like mold, WALK AWAY. Pull up the carpet. Do you see water damage or residue? WALK AWAY.
Good ones
Oh crap
I bought 2015 Dodge Dart flood damage. The interior had dirt and was moldy. I got to work and cleaned the inside. Best car I’ve ever bought. Moldy interior could be roof leak which is typical of cars with panorama sunroof. That is one hell of an expense!!
I'd call this good advice, though oddly I always suggest bringing someone you trust along when you look a vehicle over. Your less likely to be bullied, rushed, and an extra set of eyes is handy, even if they're not car experts. I try and pick friends with a good BS meter first, and mechanically inclined second.
Few things to add.
Do a background check on the owner of the used car dealership. Look at carpets for water stains and smell for odors. You can decide on if you want to purchase a history report or a carfax, but don’t put much faith in the accuracy. Highly suggest buying an OBDII, a $40 one will do. And do not ever sign anything that states “as is”. Everything he says is true! You need to really search for damages. If they claim it’s never been in an accident and the seals aren’t aligning, RUN!
Can I ask you…why not to sign anything as is? Even if it’s been through a good dealer and and everything on the vehicle is good?
@@leasea9621 so many things can be hidden. I purchased a vehicle, 2 days later I was stranded in the middle of nowhere in the dark. Brought the vehicle back to the dealership the next day and it was $3,500 to fix. When leaving the dealership, everything seemed perfect. 2 days and I’m paying that much to repair it? After speaking with multiple attorneys they all warned me to never buy “as is” .
UPDATE!
I had a very experienced mechanic and body shop guy fully inspect my vehicle. Clean title, but it’s been in at least three collisions. Front drivers side was the hardest hit, it got t-boned on the passenger side and rear ended on the driver’s side. Due to all this, every time it rains, I know I have an expensive repair coming. Last week I had to replace my headlight ($105) and today I have 15 codes. Only 4 months since I left my comment and repairs far exceed the cost of the vehicle. BE CAREFUL
@@ThisIsMyUA-camName1 wow I'm sorry that happened to you. Make sure you decide whether or not the car is worth fixing to avoid wasting more money. Also if your car has low mileage you may qualify to add a third party extended warranty
@@lilman4067 I did have a third party warranty, but it didn’t cover things that needed to be replaced. Since my last comment, the vehicle is now a complete loss. Mechanic said my head gasket is blown, despite no sign of oil being contaminated and the vehicle has never once ran hot. Never had any issues with oil leaking and coolant is full. I don’t understand why or how, but my credit union has started to investigate (no auto fraud attorneys will even reply to us, so hopefully they can get something resolved). I don’t want anyone going through this. The economy is bad enough, to get scammed out of $9k? It’s sick
This guy is all about expensive repairs, love it 😀
Only uneducated people think tires and car parts are expensive
Underbody inspection is very needed in wet or rust belt areas.
I keep a spreadsheet on all my maintenance and repairs that includes date, mileage and a good description (and cost) of what was done. It really makes it easy to keep up with things and provides an easy way to look back to see just what and when something was done. Put your VIN at the top for easy reference as at times you will need that info. You can also include a macro to tell you when your next oil change is due if you separate oil changes from repairs by column
Or you could follow the manufacturers service schedule.
They built it, they test it and have so much more education about the vehicles they build than anyone else.
@@albybloke2289 I dont even care Im 2 months late, what the hell are you on about dude. They legit were talking about nothing but tracking maintence on their car. Nothing about the specifics like how many miles until the oil change, so you either horribly misunderstood or are just openly assuming because of something they said.
You know what they say about assuming...
@@cherriberri8373 I'll rely on my 45 years in the motor trade to know what I said, if you can match that I'm happy to listen.
I feel that both pieces of advice are compatible with each other. Regulations around cars vary throughout the world. I live in New Zealand where there is a relatively high number of imported 2nd hand cars that are owned for longer than countries like Britain, Japan, or USA. Many of those cars are not serviced by a branded dealer. Some mechanics put the onus on the customer to maintain a history of what has been done to their car.
I suggest that this video is aiming towards people with little experience of cars, like myself.
Spreadsheets do not prove you did the maintance. Receipts do
This honestlt is the best video I've watched about what to check before buying a used car.
Also Look at the seller face carefully ...is the person honest, is the person look like a caring person, is the person clean,is the car clean correctly, is the oil dripping, is the engine bay clean, does all the windows roll up correctly....there is a lot you can learn about the car you are buying because of the owner appearance.
You’re the text book definition of don’t judge a book by its cover, my 01 dodge dakota with 265,000 miles was purchased from An awkward & fairly dirty guy living in his car. He mainted it meticulously, it was his only form of housing and transportation. At you’re logic a dealership is the way to go
Excellent video. I would add to tires to check the DOT numbers that will tell you the year and week that tire was manufactured. Sometimes the tread looks great, but the tire is ten years old because the car was garaged or not driven much. Tires over five years need to be replaced, regardless of the tread depth.
The 5 year replacement guideline is variable. It is sun and heat that cause the issues. If in northern US or Canada, and especially if the car was kept in a garage -- 10 years on a tire should be fine. And not unheard of if the car has two sets of tires -- summer and winter -- and hence neither set gets used for the full mileage in a year.
Depends more on the tyre's exposure to deteriorating elements (e.g. temperature changes, extreme temperatures, sun etc). Even if only 4 years old, they can be cracking and can be dangerous in the wet. Meanwhile another car can have 10 year old tyres that may just be starting to crack or have no cracks.
Good video, but you failed to mention how easy it is to Photoshop maintenance records and they're worth nothing unless you have a relationship with the shop on the paperwork. You can pretty much assume someone selling a used car is lying to you. This holds especially true to car flippers.
And don’t forget to check the blinker fluid. That’s highly crucial
A very important part, don't buy a car without checking it. It can cost millions to replace
Don’t be ridiculous… obviously collecting an exhaust sample is your first step.
I’m a private in the Army and I got that one played on me 😂😂😂
Hahaha
Oh shit I forgot to do that… 😂
Remember that its a used car. Dont expect perfection. The Polo I purchased for 7800 was a repaired accident vehicle. They one in perfect condition was 28,000 with 0.2 miles.
This is the best video on UA-cam...I don't know why it doesn't have millions views. The only thing I would add is about how to check for flooded cars but I guess there is no flood in Hawaii.
I wished I had the common sense to learn from videos like yours before buying my used car! Everything was perfect until the fan belt broke, water tank and pipe leaked, radiator leaked, and the damn workshop had to fix all other weary parts and everything cost me a BOMB 😢
Ahh come on, a newish car would cost you much more than those 3k$ for your car +600$ for repairs
I've been working at a body shop for a bit now and extra tips I learned was if you're painting the door, it's better to take off the mirror and belt molding (the trim at the bottom of the window) for a better paint job in the end. The mirror can get in the way, and if you're unlucky, the clear coat could stick in that gap between the door and the belt molding.
Great tips. Thanks so much. I’m currently in the market for a used mini van but they’re so expensive and I don’t want to get burned. I feel educated on what to look for .
Best of luck!
Good job covering all the main things that keep the car in good running order, very professional! !!
great video man! I just bought mine yesterday for 4000 USD with 93k Miles on it. No noises at all, plus the owner got installed a brand new the power steering system.
You got burnt b
Knowing how to read 4 digit DOT date code on tires is helpful 💡
Mismatched tires and El Cheapo no name tires are a red flag imo
CarFax, AutoCheck, etc, are not always accurate
I looked at a 17k mile Toyota with a clean history that had the entire front end and windshield had been replaced
Repair was nicely done, but no way to determine if air bags were replaced
i Bought a 2005 Honda Accord with 197,000 miles for 3,000 bucks because it had a small ugly scrape on the front and rear bumpers, the original 1 owner lady said she was not the best person to park a car, LOL it was obvious, but thats why i got a great car for so Cheap, that was 4 years ago and the car now has 213,000 miles and still drives and runs like new.
One thing I always do before buying a car remove the radiator cap, start the car, if the coolant burst out while starting the car, don't buy it, the cooling should sit in the radiator at least a minute, without rising.
Hi wondering if you might have an answer. I went to look at a used car and guy knew I was coming, but when I got there, the car was very warm as he had just taken it to the post office. Even though he had another car. It's bad news if the engine is running when you get there right? So what if it's been very recently driven?
Yes, the person is hiding several things, a cold start, where you do not hear all of the components engage to support an engine start which has more friction/resistance, access to fluids that get hot, ie radiator fluid, access to engine that will burn you. A cold transmission engagement will feel bad, but same transmission warm could feel normal. Electric load issues are masked as well, less engine demand. I am certain I am missing things, but yes, the seller is inconsiderate at best or hiding things at worst.
9:12 if a timing belt breaks it could be catastrophic for your engine if it is an ”interference type” engine. There are cars with ”Non-Interference type” engines, if the belt brakes or skips, it just shuts down without causing damage.
over the past thirty yrs, almost all cars in the U.S. mkt increasingly became interference types, with either belts or chains. When the belt breaks, it's extremely likely that there is damage that financially 'totals' an not fresh/newer car. ALWAYS do the timing belt on time, and if not sure about its condition, get the cover off and inspect closely. When in doubt about it or the water pump that is part of the set-up with it, do it all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@18_rabbitalso if an used car dealer does not rewind the mileage on the car dashboard.
As life long gearhead I got scammed a while back buying used Honda CRV...I thought everything looked good until I took it to a tire shop and discovered a bent control arm and a very worn rear tired. It can happen!!
Excellent video, opening the gas tank to see if color matches the exterior color great suggestion.
Also if you want to spend less for repairs then get yourself a car with less frills.
Blind spot monitors and stuff like that is sensitive.
My one is a naturally aspirated engine with a manual transmission and manual air conditioning.
The one about the stored codes is one that 99% of people miss! Even though there is no light on, the seller could have just reset it and hopes you won’t check it.
I just fell for it a month ago. Vehicle left me stranded in the middle of nowhere, pitch black. This happened 2 days after purchase. First time buying used, found out even the history report was false. These cons can beat almost any system. I could sue (every single thing he had in the ad was fraudulent), I just rather pay the repair ($3,000!!!!!) and don’t want to see this person again.
@@ThisIsMyUA-camName1 Thank God you had 3,000 to pay to get it fixed🙏🏾 sorry for your loss!
@@ThisIsMyUA-camName1 you really should sue IMHO. By not suing, you’re guaranteeing that piece of shit will continue to scam people just like you in the future.
•
Please, do it for the sake of the innocent that will get ‘robbed’ by this person 🙏🏻
@@AustrianEconomist the problem with it is there isn’t much money for profit, so no lawyer would take my case.
@@gregoryswift7804 Thank god?
Not sure why such a precise, informative video has only 2k like. Liked and subscribed, thanks!
FANTASTIC video! I took a lot of notes! I'm shopping now for a used minivan and YOU have HELPED tremendously! THANK YOU and I subscribed!
Glad it helped! Thanks for subscribing!
Stick to Toyotas.
Another thing would be doing a vehicle owner search. This is to ensure that the car you are buying is not a stolen car. Do everything to know the person behind a vehicle identification number (VIN) or a license plate number. The car theft rate in the U.S. stood at 246 cases per 100,000 residents. Just by these numbers, you should verify all cars sold to your business, as you may get fined and face lawsuits for buying stolen cars.
How do you do a vehicle owner search? the dealership I was at wouldn’t give out that information..
Good stuff. I see others have more suggestions in comments. I smell the ATF, too. A burnt sugar smell can mean a very damaged transmission. I don't like to see a washed engine. Water and modern electronics are mortal enemies with delayed corrosion of electrical connectors. Same with evidence of water elsewhere like under floor and trunk mats. Engine vibration that disappears when transmission is in gear can = bad motor mounts.
I was about to make similar comments. Also check under the front floor mats for any water. Most people know that but it's wise to check under the trunk carpet, too. Some cars have very expensive electronic elements back there.
My friend brought with him one of those ODB2 thingy, plugged it in , looked on his iphone , unplugged it , and said let’s go. never asked him what up, this was years ago.. oh crap you just mentioned the obd2 thingy
Doesn't it bug you waht he saw? I wanna know now lol
I checked everything on this video plus some things not mentioned like blue smoke when accelerating hard ( had someone behind me to check the tailpipe ) , it took me 3 hours & then I found the blinker fluid was dirty & had never been changed , glad I walked away , hardly anyone seems to do this simple maintenance job 👍
I don’t know how I feel about all this…
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii I achieved my goal 😉😄😄😄
And don't forget "the piston return springs".
@@wholeNwon Yeah , if there dodgy , the engine is probably Kangaroo Edward , Roo-Ted 😉
Never flush an automatic transmission. It can cause more problems. Only drain and refill.
Yes, and use lucas trans fix
@@dommopa4464 No.
Old cars yes if you take it too a shop just ask them to replace the filter and the fluid that came out don’t do a flush
Yeah, that's where I tell UA-cam not to recommend this channel to me any more...
This video confuses a lot of people. It is simply far from realistic
I have saved myself from ALOT of lemons by asking to take it to a mechanic first...also my mother had a father who was a mechanic so he taught her alot and she knew what to look for when car shopping and buying! I saved this video because your spot on!😮🎉
With all due respect, is that realistic? My mechanic doesn't even work on weekends. And you're also assuming the distance to your mechanic is reasonable. What if the car is 50 miles away? Plus a mechanic should be paid to inspect a car. Lots of things to consider. :)
@@djmartinez5054 in MY situations YES..
@@djmartinez5054 Doesn't work for everyone but I've been around a long time and would never buy a used car without a PPI.
How comes that this guy doesn't have more views?
Great great video.
Specially the part that tells us about dash lights fraud. Thanks
The first car I ever bought for myself had amazing A/C that was so good, it could keep ice cream from melting in 90f degree weather for a few hours, and really good sound system that was powerful enough to drown out all those bass-beaters out there. It was fun to drown out booming-bass-beat with Beethoven-Bass-Cello if it came down to someone being rude about it (in residential areas and gas stations)... But that was literally all it had going for it. Nearly everything else about that stupid thing was a disaster.
To this day, I'm seriously peeved at the dealership that sold me the dang thing. I had to take it to 5 different shops (2 of which were OTHER dealerships) just to sort out a really weird and strong shimmy that happened between 63 and 68 MPH. Turned out it was after market rims of some sort, but it took FIVE repair shops to figure that out? Gah! Never again. I'll pay a trusted mechanic to test drive a car WITH me before there is a "next time" I buy used... lol
You mean the car was shaking when you got to those speeds? And aftermarket rims? Yeah sounds like you needed to get hub rings. Did you fix the issue?
Was my very first car of my own, way back in 2006-ish. Took it to 2 repair shops, AND two dealerships; over the course of half a year. And the last one finally figured out what was going on (which was that it had after-market rims) and we (family) got them replaced. But that was some expensive work having 4 different places "have a look at it" and then the actual repair. I wasn't exactly torn up later when it needed to be retired... But it had served me well enough through my early work-years.
Excellent. I live near hills in California. Taking a test drive that includes steep hills is a good way to feel transmission slipping. And I learned only recently (after driving for 50 years) that the engine needs to be running when you check your transmission fluid level.
Extremely helpful video. You are so professional in your voice and in your information. Thank you.
Great video with great tips for the average person to know!
Honest and solid advices. Not click bait. 🎉
Here for you!
I would add, check the undercarriage of the vehicle for rust, stretch out the seat belt and check if the belt has same color or different, if dirty means the car was flooded, check the door alignment to the vehicle's body alignment, boot alignment, everywhere it should have same gap.. thank you..🎉❤
Good video but for females I’d like to add some feedback…you mentioned what we should watch out for but there’s nothing to compare it to….for coolant is it to be oily and clear but not water, for the oil…what does the white and milky color look like? What does the good and bad look like by comparison that way we can visually get a mental picture of what’s good and what’s a no go! lol. Great video!
I am surprised the braking system was not mentioned. It is important and expensive if needing maintenance and/or repair.
Maybe its a older ford thing but brakes are normally one of the cheaper and certainly easiest system to maintence and fix
Don't forget to look for white smoke coming out of your exhaust and make sure your driver's seat works. You can smell burnt fluids too.
The very first thing I check on any used car is for rust and rot on the rocker panels. That's a deal breaker every time
Very informative video. Im on a market of used car and all tips really makes sense. Thanks for this content and will keep this in mind when im hunting for used car. 👌
Subscribed! Thank you sooo much for this valuable information. You are saving lives out here my man, thank you
Thanks for the subscribe, glad I can help 🤙🏽
Really love and appreciate the checklist in the beginning ❤️
Hope it helps!
Great tips and I followed all of them recently after driving my used car 300 miles home
Timing is everything
Good advice,but update there are non expensive scanners that scan in modules and can diagnose the SRS system as well as operate the module associated with it.Just look around,buy it once have it for a lifetime as long as the manufacturer supports updates,
This is the the video I am sending to friends and relatives who are or will be buying a used car BIG THANKS.
Check springs ( suspension) by hand and body press for bounce, check any suspension leakage. Start engine and check rpm after a while it should be between .75 to 1. Then while driv9ng listen to wheels for any bearing issues. 4th after ride check the end of exhaust for smoke cokor, white, blue and black
Good luck checking the transmission fluid. Most transmissions no longer have dipsticks.
My friend bought a used 2013 Honda civic from dealership with 98,000 miles on it for $10,000 and paid $800 for registration and taxes. Since then he is spending money on the car every month. He changed engine mounts one month, next month he changed VTEC solenoid, MAP sensor, cleaned MAF sensor. next month he said transmission not shifting smooth he changed transmission oil 3 times 3 quarts every time, transmission solenoids, then he changed tensioner, serpentine belt, then water pump, Chaned brakes, rotors, he did valve adjustments, now he said timing jumped by 2 teeth. HELL of a time. Waste of time. Buy brand new, use for 90000 miles sell and get new one. No used car.
You have 30k laying around for me to buy a new car ?
But then everyone says if you buy new it’s bad news because you’re wasting money due to almost immediate depreciation of car….
Thanks a lot Budget....you mentioned some things that I would not have thought of so thank you!
Please remember that God loves you and wants you to love Him enough to be with Him forever by abandoning your ways and letting Him bring His ways into your life. 🙂 ...thanks again for the help. 🙂
Buying a used car is a risk, because not everybody out there is honest. I have been scammed by an indian dealership in Texas with a car. The dealer put bent truck rims/tires on the car and on my way to my home state the car was wobbling on the highway. People were even honking at me on the highway to let me know that the car was not riding correctly. On the title the mileage was crossed out and I had a difficult time registering it with motor vehicles. They advised me to make a complaint with motor vehicles in Texas against the dealership. I also found out that the car had been involved in two car accidents and somehow this was not showing up on the title of the car. I also learned that it had a different color than the one that it had. It was a bad experience. I will complain against them for sure. Buying a new car is extremely expensive, unless you are super rich. There is no escape from all the dishonest people out there. Everybody wants to make a buck out of anything nowadays. Your channel is a huge help to those who do not know much about cars. Thank you.
I just bought a Ford Fusion SE for 4,000 with 153,346 miles it looks and runs like new the dealer owned it from new and took good care of it, so I always pray asking the Lord to bless n protect me from scams. My last car was a 2002 Sebring convertible which I had 11 years that I prayed for, I didn’t test drive it, I just paid cash and drove it home in Pa. No problems at all just change tires oil brakes and new convertible top. You can’t even trust to many mechanics these days they just wanna get paid, but I can trust the Lord🙏🏾
Buying a new Car isnt expensiv at all!You can get a new Basic Nissan Versa Manual for around 18k
Subscribed 😊.... Thank you for making such informative and enjoyable videos, where one can learn a lot of new things.... Keep up the good work brother 👍👍
2 reasons why someone would be selling their vehicle: 1) Not wanted or 2) Not needed/used). Majority of the time, it is because it is not wanted even if they got a new vehicle you might want to find out what compelled them to get a new one because people don't typically look into replacing or upgrading a vehicle they are happy with, right? You will need to be a sleuth and find out why exactly they are selling it. The initial reason(s) they give you just for the asking is often not the real thing or not entirely. Much like a resume 98% of the sellers will lie or at least exaggerate a good thing or undermine an issue. Typically, I would try to get a feel for the seller's vibe and behavior. If the seller is not saying much or saying too much or seems too eager or nervous, to me each is a red flag. Ultimately, if you don't like the seller's attitude or something doesn't feel right, just walk away. There are more vehicles out there, don't rush and end up buying a lemon.
If your buying a nice car, service history and tyres, do they match, are they a premium brand. 4 x pirellis or continental half worn are a great indication the car has been cared for
Bro, you got such a cool video. I wish I had watched this before I purchased an old car :(
Also, don't go online and make an appointment to see a particular car. That gives them a chance to go "spruce " it up, air it out and let it run for a while to warm the engine. You want to see it start up after it's set a while and been closed up.
Wow these were great tips. The funny thing is that almost every used car seller thinks that 125,000 miles on a car is "low miles"! I guess "low miles" should really apply to a car that have 50K-80K. Those are rare.
It’s all relative I suppose!
This was super helpful!!! Pretty sure i got suckered into the car i just bought.... but his will prevent thay for the future!
Check blow by removing cap and place it back without tightening and see ifsmoke is coming out and the cap is fluttering. Put peice of card board under enging and check for coolent, oil dripping. Look up common problems with this car on UA-cam, Take the car to a mechanic and have pre purchase inspection.
I got scammed by a used car dealer when I was younger. Even the kid filling my gas noticed the car needed an oil change. The car broke down on the way home. Big lesson learned.
SUPERB video! Thank you! I just subscribed as I am in the market to buy a used minivan.
PRO TIP have the seller meet you at Josh's and pay for his inspection! (Or your own trusted mechanic) If the seller says no; you say NEXT! There's a reason $$$$$
Also make sure they’ve been putting premium air in the tires, not that regular crap
Do you mean nitrogen in the tires?
If you want to know if the car you're looking at needs a timing belt replacement, make sure it's not a timing chain. Search for "timing belt or chain", it will tell you which one it has.
Bring someone with you, ask to see and hold the title. Have your partner read the VIN from the dash and verify it matches the VIN on the title. also, slowly look the title over and look for any "Leins". Many DMV's/Secretary of State will allow you to enter the VIN in and see if the title is "clear & free". Open the trunk and look for signs the car has been rearended, row down all windows to see if they operate properly. Ask if you can take the car to a mechanic just to see what the seller says or how they act.
That black car 10:39 had me dying. Lmao
Indeed. Those were some ugly ass tiny/shrunken/Bettlejuicehead wheels.
Thank you for a great video. Simple and clear. Subscribed from Canada.
Some really good tips! Thank you.
I’m looking at an 06 impala and it drives great but only problem is the ac doesn’t blow cold air, how can I figure what’s wrong with it or should I just keep looking
If car has been flooded check the seat belt if there's water line especially cars nowadays coming from the East coast hurricane flooded.
look around at the wiring harness+connections! nothing worse than intermittent electrical problems,bear in mind that if the ecu is bad finding another one may be impossible.
I setup a pre-purchase inspection from an auto mechanic in the same township as the car dealership, he will only charge me $40!! Now I just have to worry about getting scammed on my pre-purchase inspection 😂
I checked out a 2008 Toyota Avalon 3 weeks ago and when I turned the ignition switch to on, all the lights came on and when I started the car up, they all STAYED ON. So I went and pop the hood to listen to the engine, it had a very noticeable tick. When I say in the car it had a funk smell to it, like mildew and when I walked around the car looking at the it looked like it was used as a bumper car. No this car only had 76,000 miles on it, needless to say this was a Ft. Myers special (AKA flood car). This dealer had a whole lot full of them, I looked at 3 Lexus cars and the Toyota and all four had that funky smell to their interiors. They were also all low miles, but they looked like bumper cars too, beware these cars are out there and there are a lot of them. Oh I looked at another Lexus IS250 on another lot and ran my finger on the inside of the exhaust pipe, heavy carbon build up, it was running really rich, the car also had lowering struts on it, this being a rear wheel drive car, I wouldn't doubt it was used by a previous owner as a part time drifter.
Did you get a carbon flush?
Nice one, Josh. Thanks for sharing some great tips! :)
My pleasure 🤙🏽
For older cars, more than 15 years old, that were stored outside, for brighter colors, the paint on the outside should be duller than the covered frame paint, since it did not get the same sun exposure, and consistent in dullness. If there is an outside area that is not as dull, pay attention to that are, look below to see all the clips, and work being done. For an older car that was taken care of, may not necessarily mean much, for example a car that I sold that I still miss, had that feature, as it was bumped while backing up, and I did the body work myself. Not being an expert, I was a bit generous with bondo and aluminum plating behind it, but I did a good job with it, came out surprisingly well. I disclosed it to a buyer who was just wanting to not pay for a maintained car, that obviously had TLC in it, and the guy who was impressed with my work got it. I would gladly take a low mileage high trim Camry from early 2000s than one from now, the interiors and engines are not what they used to be back in the day.
I think bringing portable plastic ramps so you can drive up and inspect under the car for leaks and rust is a great idea.
What questions should we ask before going to see the car?? Thank you for this video!
Wouldn't be a good idea to flush a functioning transmission that has very dirty fluid. That fluid is dirty because of the friction material that has worn away from the clutch packs. It needs that friction material that is suspended in the fluid to assist the clutch packs to engage. If you flush it out, the friction material will be significantly reduced, and can cause the transmission to slip.
That was good, two thigs I would add, sometimes you can tell if the vehicle has had body work by noticing a slightly different shade of paint from one body componant to another , such as where the rear 1/4 panel meets the door , or the hood to the fender . Also , when you turn the ignotion forward but before you get to the point where the vehicle will turn over all of the dash indicator lights should be on . I have heard of cases where a crafty selle ( usually a dealer )r had a way of getting the inspection sticker, then would disconect the " check engine light " so it would look like it was off . Te problem is , the next time . like next years inspection , the reader is plugged in , it will show a code even though the light is off .
Thank you so much. I found your video incredibly so helpful and informative.
Inspect the undercarriage and brake system and fluid color. Also power steering fluid and look for fluid leaks.
Do a compression test. The tool is not that expensive and it's fairly easy to do.
Anybody who reads comments trust me he's absolutely right with everything esp the ending. DO NOT buy a modified car no matter what brand but in my experience especially a subaru. If you see a Cobb access port run and avoid it. You don't want anything that's had the ecu messed with. I try to tell ppp Cobb access ports are bad and ruin ur car. Always ask if they've used one. Always get a stock vehicle. You'd be surprised how damaged a front end can be from lowering coilovers or "bags" which are very expensive to replace and or wheels. No matter how big the list is of things they did to the car or replaced THEY ARE SELLING IT FOR A REASON! nobody is going to dumb thousands of $ into a car to just sell it. They are selling it because it's a money pit and they messed the car up and trying to get their money back an sell you a lemon.
Sorry you learned this one the hard way!!
What would be the best scan tool to get that can read ALL code and retain all the data a car gives them?
I personally got burned by not checking the OIL on a truck that I purchased. I should have done so and I even did so on prior vehicle purchases, but the one time I did not it got me. Also heater core problems can relate to the a/c system if both the a/c evaporator and heat core are housed in the same box that is attached to the firewall of the car, the those that don't know it it means you have to disconnect both just to replace one or the other. The means if the heater core leaks that is just as bad as the A/C not working.
Wow
It's indeed very helpful . God bless you
Thank you for your help with this information I am actually going to look at a car soon to buy i now know what to look for
So helpful! Great info- I learned a bunch of things! Thanks!
just got a car from a shop and its 6000 miles from 2014 with external damage and they fixed it and the car has been great for 3 months and then some heat shields noises are covered i think it was a great steal
IS the warrenty still in effect? To the 2nd owner?
Thank you so much you don't know how much this means to me. ❤