Starter Bump Method - Toyota Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Removal 22R Series Engine Stubborn Stuck Fix
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- Опубліковано 20 бер 2015
- How to use the Starter Bump method to remove a Toyota 22R series engine (22R 22RE 22RE-T) crankshaft pulley bolt.
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Thanks for the video. You stated the problem, explained the procedure, showed exactly what to do, and demonstrated the goal. No unnecessary talk and to the point. I am going to do the same thing on my 1994 Pickup. I did it years ago on another vehicle.
About four years ago, I torqued the bolt to spec on my 86 pickup. Yesterday, the starter bump method worked when nothing else seemed to work.
Let me tell you what...just tonight I've spent the past 3 hours trying to get my harmonic balancer off my 2004 Tacoma V6. Your video was the last video I watched for some added inspiration and well hot damn!!! It worked!!!!
Was this vvt-i 3000 four cam?
I have to do this on my 1998 Subarea Leg. I am doing a timing belt, plug seal. I heard about this method before but never watched anyone do it. I knew you did not want the engine to fire. However your video was step by step for ppl that might not know any of this Great work man!!! and thank you.
After two hours trying to remove with an electric impact wrench on my 1998 Rav4 all it took was two cranks of the engine and the bolt could then be removed by hand. Thanks man.
I approved this method worked on my 2007 Tacoma V6 PreRunner. I did an extra step to remove fuel pump fuse just to be safe. Thank you sir
Man i have a 2006 subaru outback an your video was the most direct video an the only video i could find where it wasnt a long drawn out video thank you thank you
Thank you for the great and to the point video. Just removed my pulley (2001 Tacoma) using your instructions and the pulley was off in less than 5 minutes.
Thanks again!!!
Explained it better than most. Cheers!
I've seen another person mention this method with the 2JZ crank bolt. It's reassuring seeing it done on another engine as this will most likely be the only way I get my crank bolt lose; on a 2JZGE. I'm preparing to refresh the cam seals, front main seal, water pump, timing belt, and all the associated parts for it. Man... I'm sweating it pretty good. Got to start to learn somehow, somewhere. Thanks for the video.
I wish you made ALL the videos on youtube.
Thanks, worked like a charm. Pulled ignition circuit breaker vs coil method.
Worked like a charm I pulled both efi fuses under hood and 1 ign under steering wheel broke loose easy thanks buddy
Really good tip. Thanks for sharing. I have seen something similar when you cant get a wheel nut off using the short bar that normally comes with a vehicle.
finally a person who actually showed the shit actually being done...thanks. everyone else's video of it was always after the fact...lol..
No shit right?
Great video man! Tried it on my '90 4Runner and in one hit of the starter off came the bolt!!!
this is by far best technique, about to do it in a min hopefully it works again
Thank you! Worked first bump. 89 22re
Been there and done that to replace my head gasket without removing the front cover. Had to make a tool out of bent metal to take the chain tensioner slack off to get the chain back in place, but it worked the second time. First time, I had the engine out of time by one chain link.
this trick saved me on working on a lot of toyota's thanks Pete!!! love the Toyota videos I hope your still making new content!!!
Thanks for watching! I'm still making videos. Haven't done any Toyota vids for a while, but I have some in the works.
You have a good channel here! Would like to add this should be the last method before taking the engine out as you could mess up the teeth on the flywheel or lesser damage to the teeth on the starter. But love the way you say damn sure!! Good video!!
Gotta admit was hesitant to do this but one bump and she popped right loose. Very helpful thanks sir.
I will be the first one to admit that it's a bit sketchy, but when you're running out of options...it's a good trick to know.
WheeliePete it even worked with 3/8s extending handled ratchet. Didn't like using that either but if it works it works.
Thank you so much for uploading this video, I tried everything to get the crank pulley nut off my 2008 Honda CRV 2.2 ctdi and this worked a treat, when fitting the new Crank pulley I put the car in 5th gear and had my neighbour hold the brakes so I could torque the nut back up! Thanks again I would have been totally stuck with out this.
watched this and worked on my 97 LS 400. thank you!!
hey on your ls400 did it mess with timing when you did this
Yes worked a treat on a 2001 camry 4 cyl, rattle gun would not touch it,used breaker bar and cable tie to secure.
!BEAST MODE DUDE! You Alright!
You definitely got a new follower here! 😅
Just used this method (again) with success on a 1991 MR2 SW20. I've used it in MANY cars though over the years. Toyotas, Volvos, BMWs, Mercedes, Land Rovers, Etc....
how does it work on bmw with start stop button? I've tried yesterday with no success...
Pete sorry I am late I was sick for some time, but you was right about being a tooth off that is what the Toyota dealer mechanic told me also the cam gear and crank gear & oil spline gear was replaced with new ones. thanks a million.
+Billy Brackett Glad to hear you got it worked out.
works great on 2WD 2002 Tacoma 2.4L I used one inch ratchet strap to tie breaker bar to the sway bar
another one of your tricks. awsome!! thanks!!
I made dang sure to watch the entire video
That worked.
I used a 1/2" ratchet with a short cheater pipe. It was so easy.
thanks man i spent half a afternoon with a impact to get mine off the last time i had to do this . peace
This is a freakin great video. Back when I was in high school my 22re needed an oil pump seal and as you said that mother fuckin bolt was NOT coming off I had tried everything. I got all disappointed and went inside and fell asleep. The next morning I got up and went out to my truck to head top school I fired it up and heard a bunch of tools fall out of the engine bay. I got out and the breaker bar the socket and the bolt were on the ground!! Fucking awesome I am so lucky it isn't a reverse thread bolt.
I just broke the crankshaft pulley bolt loose on my 2008 Honda Fit! I used a "3:1 Torque Multiplier ($257 new on Amazon)" and the crank pulley holding tool ($13). I ran a bunch of 1/2" extensions out from the multiplier and rested them on a jack stand and used a breaker bar with a 4 ft. cheater pipe on it and it broke loose. Even though the torque multiplier is rated for 1100 ft/lbs, I still had to put out on that cheater pipe. My 450 ft/lb. electric impact with the special crankshaft 19mm socket from Honda was not enough to break it loose.
Hey wheelie pete what about tensioner pulleys. Specifically for the 2007 FJ cruiser. 2 questions.
1) Which direction to untighten? Clock wise or counter?
2) Can you purchase the tensioner pulley only and not have to replace the entire tensioner assembly and if so what are the torque specs.
On my 2000 Camry there is no single wire coil as there was in earlier models. So, to prevent the car from starting I looked for other options. The options I discovered were 1) You could just turn the key on & off quickly 2) You could remove all the coil pack connectors 3) You could disconnect all the spark plugs OR 4) You could disconnect the crankshaft position sensor. Of these #4 is the easiest and on my car the connector is easily accessible. #1 is the worst because if your hand slips the engine will start and possibly cause damage.
Awesome advice. Thought mine was in pieces and I didn’t want to put it all back together to do this method. I blocked the wheels, put it in 4th and had someone press the brakes for me, popped like a soda can.
What you did is also a good way to hit the torque measure when installing that bolt also.
@@WheeliePete awesome thanks for the advice. Tomorrow I will drop the oil pan, with a little bit of luck it’ll fit without having to drop any suspension.
Please be aware some engines spin the other direction and you will just be tightening it more and may end up breaking/snapping the bolt head off.
Great tip!!!
Edit: What's the secret to tightening it back up with limited space?!
Good idea. Thank you!
Interesting the engine itself is actually turning anti clockwise only when you facing the engine is a turning clockwise. That could be confusing for some people I'm sure. You did mention though facing the engine and this method does work haven't tried it myself but a few of my mates have.
It's strange when you think about it, but since the crankshaft pulley bolt is installed from the front , that's the relative rotation of the crankshaft we're dealing with (when facing the front of the engine.) So if the crankshaft is rotating clockwise (when facing the front of the engine) then anchoring the crankshaft pulley bolt and spinning the crankshaft clockwise (when facing the front of the engine) It is effectively is the same thing as holding the engine still and turning the crankshaft pulley bolt counter-clockwise (lefty loosey) when facing the engine. But yes, pretty much else when working on these engines is defined as being facing forward from the driver's seat.
thank you that will help me tp make my car .i have suzuki alto 2005 i must ching had gescat .
Thank you. Dang 96 toyota truck seems every bolt is super tight or stuck and breaks. done welded the frame. it was rusted so bad had to rebuild most of the frame in places. good farm truck tho.
Great method. If I tried that on my 2003 CRV I’d snap all the teeth right off of my starter for sure.
If not use breaker bar but only socket driver...will that worked?
Awesome thanks
BRILLIANT!
think this will work on 2000 RX300 Lexus?
That's smart idea.. I just knew it how. 😆
Great video! Gonna try this soon! Question, do the serpentine belts have to be on like you have in the video?
The crankshaft pulley is driven by the timing chain inside the engine so technically, you don't need the external belts to be in place.
Interesting method. I'll store that away for possible future use. I've never had a problem removing the crank pulley on past vehicles. If I ever do tho I'll remember this. One thing to keep in mind for anyone trying this on a newer vehicle is some newer cars have an "automatic" start what I mean by that is with some cars when you try to bump the starter it will keep cranking until the engine starts. My 09 Corolla is that way. If you rock the key it keeps cranking until it starts without you holding the key in the start position. Not sure what would happen trying this on a vehicle like that.
how install, how block the crankshaft to torquing this one.
Awesome Cool One
Should I just cut the timing belt and pull it out, then starter bump it?
this is my prefered method but was always wondering if it could spin to far and bend the valves?
The timing chain would have to break and the engine would have to keep spinning. If you've got the coil unplugged and you just bump the starter (don't crank it). I don't think you'll ever have a problem.
I also already tried to put the belt back on- not happening
Can I do this if I’ve already drained the oil and pulled the distributor? Is it okay to turn the motor for a split second?
Should be fine. Even with the oil drained there's enough oil film coating the parts that a split second bump won't hurt anything.
Worked on my 97 camry like a charm. The trouble is how to tighten to 80 ft pounds without an impact wrench using only a torque wrench. Any ideas ? Thanks
That can be a little tricky without the right tool. Get a big strap wrench around the pulley will usually do it. Might take two people to hold it. With the 4cyl trucks (22R series) and manual transmission I put it in a high gear, put on the parking brake, and use a v-belt strap wrench to hold the pulley while I torque it down.
So I got A 22R that I'm working on. Trying to get off the crank pulley. I've tried everything starter bump method isn't working either.i keep thinking I'm going the wrong way but video says I'm not but idk. Point is ..pain in the ass.
Get out a propane torch and heat the end of the bolt. Sometimes they need some some heat to break them loose. I've also got another video where I show how to jamb a drift in between the block and the pulley to stop the engine rotation. ua-cam.com/video/dhnO6fh5kn4/v-deo.html
I think I might have a main seal leak.. But I just had the whole long block rebuilt by ENGNBLDR a few months ago... :(
So the front main seal is usually dependent on the crankshaft pulley not having a big groove in it from an old seal. If there is a groove worn into the sealing surface of the crankshaft pulley a brand new seal won't help. (And the crankshaft pulley is not part of an engine rebuild.) You either need to replace the crankshaft pulley (expensive), put a speedy sleeve on the pulley sealing surface (not as expensive), or run the thinner Toyota front main seal from a 94 22RE (Toyota # 90311-45014 ) Those seals are only 7mm thick vs, the 12mm thick aftermarket ones. You can then drive the thinner seal into the bore of the oil pump where it will seal on a new part of the crankshaft pulley that doesn't have a groove. Here's a good article on it: www.toyotanation.com/forum/81-pre-88-toyota-pickup-hilux/213101-22r-front-crank-seal-1981-2wd.html The only thing I don't agree with in the article is that I drive my thinner front main seals all the way to the bottom and they seal up fine, but the depth you drive the thinner seal in may depend on where your last seal made the groove. I'm going to try and throw together a quick video on this in the near future.
Cool
Do you have anything on replacing 22re harmonic balancer as well as oil pump? Thanks for video..JC
Once you get the bolt out of the crankshaft pulley you can use a cheap steering wheel puller get to get it off the crankshaft if it won't pull off by hand (usually pretty stuck on there though from years of spinning against the woodruff key that holds it in place.) The 22R, RE, RET, all use the same design of parts. I have a video specifically on dealing with the front crankshaft seal that shows how to remove and replace the oil pump. ua-cam.com/video/5eozfLpEJds/v-deo.html You can also check out my channel's Toyota playlist for other repair videos: ua-cam.com/play/PLTxEXQ674ZOJlyEriqcd3xb6MZKdosVxY.html
Thanks very much for your time and replying. Appreciate it..JC...
Now how do I put the bolt back on
So how do you hold the pulley still while torquing the bolt back on? Can you torque against a transmission in park or will that damage the transmission?
There are a couple ways to do it. For 4x4's You can put it 5th gear 4hi with the hubs locked, block the wheels, and then use a pulley holding strap wrench (what I usually do). You can also put it in a high gear and have someone stand on the brakes. The best thing by far is just to buy or make a pulley holding tool that bolts onto the crankshaft pulley, but if you had one of those you wouldn't need the starter bump method to get the bolt out... You are not going to damage the transmission. There's a lot more torque being applied to transmission parts from the engine than what it takes to install the pulley bolt to torque spec.
@@WheeliePete Thank you. Good to know.
What are the chances of damaging something? I tried this one time, mine wouldn't budge. Could I break teeth on the flywheel or starter, or damage the starter or certain bearings? I don't want to try it again if my starter is slamming up against complete resistance, since nothing is breaking loose. I think the bolt has been in there 20 years and is seized up. Next I'm trying a 3/4 drive breaker bar and cheater bar with the pinched belt trick to hold the pulley.
The possibility is there to damage the starter or the flywheel, but honestly, it's pretty low risk on this engine. The flywheel is pretty robust and the starters are cheap and plentiful. That being said, if the bolt is really frozen on there your you're going to probably need to use heat and get that bolt warmed up and then go after it. Another way to lock down the engine is to pull a spark plug and then feed a coil of rope into the cylinder and then bring the piston up until it jams the rope between the piston and the head, thus jamming the crank. Just make sure you're doing this in the compression stroke cycle so the valves are closed.
I'm not sure if my other comment posted or not but I did get it off using the pinched drive belt method. My Toyota has a very short drive belt that doesn't serpentine at all so it was hard to get enough slack to fold over itself. I finally wrapped it only around the crankshaft pulley and then formed anchor points with two socket extensions. Then a 3/4 breaker bar and at least 4 ft of leverage. Came right off.
what is the best method for torquing the bolt back down without the engine turning over ?
The best way is to use the proper pulley holder tool, but they are expensive: amzn.to/3cePTBy The other way you can do it is to put the truck in gear (like 4th or 5th) block the wheels, have someone stand on the brakes (basically do everything you can to keep the engine from turning) if you have as strap wrench put that around the pulley, and then crank the bolt with a torque wrench to spec. Other ways include pulling a spark plug out and feeding a small rope down into the cylinder and the raising the cylinder on the compression stroke and basically jamming the crank. I've never had a problem torquing the bolt to spec with a strap wrench holding the pulley , truck in gear, and someone on the brakes.
@@WheeliePete i think i will order the tool , ive always believed that its best to do the job right the first , that way if something goes wrong it wasnt from a lack of effort , thank you for the quick reply and the link , i am going to order the tool right now , gave the vid a like too
There's a couple different versions of that tool (some have a square hole for a ratchet, some have a welded on stub that you slip a pipe over.) Most seem to say they fit from 1983-1995 22RE (or 22R). There may be a difference inside that pulley diameter if you have a 20R or an earlier (pre '83) 22R. Make sure what you get will work with your application before you order. The tool will also work for holding the assembly still while you remove the bolt so you don't have to use the starter bump method. And if you have power steering, you will remove the outer power steering pulley from the crankshaft pulley. That will give you room for the tool and open up the threaded holes you run the tool's bolts into.
@@WheeliePete i went ahead and ordered it , if it doesn't work il just send it back , if that is the case i can fabricate a holder out of some steel square stock , some 3 or 4 inch pipe and some grade 8 bolts , using my mig welder to stitch it together , il figure out a way ,
@@WheeliePete i got the tool in and it works great , having a little trouble getting a straight answer when it comes down to torque specs some websites say 193 foot pounds and others say 116 foot pounds , kind of a huge gap there , ive got a dohc 2.4l 1996 tacoma any idea how much i need to torque this thing down too ?
What happens to my starter/engine if the bolt doesnt come lose...? Does engine/alternator size/stenght matter?
Usually the engine will stall and just won't turn over. Might snap the socket or breaker bar. Worst case (but pretty unlikely) you break the teeth off the starter or the flywheel.
Hello I had someone replace the engine damper the truck wants to start but none of the belts want to turn did the mechanic not install the damper correctly now hes telling me I need a ne motor but I highly doubt that
On the toytoa 22R series engines it's not possible for the crankshaft to turn without turning the crankshaft pulley (unless maybe I guess if the woodruff key (little steel half-moon piece that keeps the pulley and crankshaft slaved to each other) wasn't installed and the crankshaft is spinning inside the pulley, but that would make some bad noises I would think.) If the crankshaft pulley is turning, the belts should be turning. The crankshaft pulley on the 22R series is not some fancy fluid filled multi-part damper, it's literally a pulley so as long as it's attached to the crankshaft, it should turn if the crankshaft turns. I would get my head down there and have someone turn the engine over and see if the crankshaft pulley is spinning when the engine tries to turn over. The pulley is attached to the crankshaft which is turned at startup by the starter engaging the starter ring gear teeth on the flywheel. If the starter is running, but the engine isn't turning over you're starter could not be fully engaging, you could be missing teeth on the flywheel starter ring gear, or the starter gear could be missing teeth.
Gracias x tu video amigo, me fue muy util.¡ saludos desde zMichoacan Mexico.
You are a fuckin genius
How do you put the crank bolt back on without the pulley moving?
Put it in gear, have a buddy stand on the brakes. I can usually do it by myself by using a v-belt pulley holder, but the two person method works well.
Hey man, will this work with a 1997 4runner? 3.4L v6. I have the belt off of the cams, it is only connected to the bottom (crankshaft). I can't for the life of me remove the bolt.
I wouldn't turn the engine over without the timing belt on. If a valve is open and you turn the engine over you'll probably hit the valve with the piston head. At this point you probably need to get a crankshaft pulley holder tool.
Yeah I realized why that wouldn't work a little after I posted that. I borrowed a strap wrench, asked my dad to hold it, and tugged it to the left with a breaker bar and socket. Almost immediately broke loose. Thank you for the response!
WheeliePete the timing belt and tensioner were tough to install. I got it all back together and it is running well 👍🏻 I have to do another one soon.
Will this work on a diesel engine aswell? 1991 190D 2.5turbo (om602) engine. As long as i make sure the enigne doesent start ofc. Think the bolt is sitting with 320nm for something..
maybe some loctite will help a little next time the bolt is removed, but with the heat of the engine maybe not,. damn Toyotas
Are you high what the fuck are you talking about.
I wish my 22r came off that easy we did that and bump started 10 times in a row and no luck
If it's that stuck you might need to actually get the pulley holder tool (the one that bolts onto the pulley) and a really large breaker bar. Before you do that though, you might try heating the bolt head. I had one that was so stuck once I cracked an impact socket trying to get it to come loose. I ended up welding the socket to the bolt head with a mig. The heat from the welding loosened the bolt. It came right out after that. Link to what the tool looks like: www.amazon.com/Schley-Products-Toyota-Harmonic-Holding/dp/B0051XDBBG/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1513782669&sr=1-1-fkmr3&keywords=toyota+22R+crankshaft+pulley+holder
You can also make one if you have an old outer pulley. Just weld some gussets to it and a long bar, then bolt that outer pulley to your crankshaft pulley and let the bar touch the ground to hold the engine while you use the socket and breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
WheeliePete well I wanted to heat up the bolt with my propane blowtorch but for some reason my friend that was helping me said not to do that because he said on a harmonic balancers they have rubber in them so if you heat it up it's going to throw it out of balance and I didn't know so I just took that advice and didn't heat it up but maybe we should heat it up because we tried the bolt trick well actually we had some bolts they were grade 5 and they couldn't take the breaker bar mixed between the bolts and someone twerking so maybe we just need stronger bulbs but honestly I want to try heating up the bolt with my propane torch but I'm going to try that as long as there's no rubber inside the harmonic balance or like some of the small block Chevys head
What year is your truck? I believe they weren't actually "harmonic balancers" until the 90's (not sure what year), before that they were just true pulleys (solid steel). You should be fine if you're just carefully heating the bolt head. I would heat it, then put some penetrating spray like PB blaster, then heat it again, more penetrating spray, etc. trying to get that penetrating spray to suck down between the bolt head and the pulley and wick into the threads. If you've actually got a harmonic balancer on there you could always wrap a wet rag around the pulley while heating the bolt. You gotta do what you gotta do to get it off of there... At some point you might just have to go get the holding tool or make one. You could also take out the starter and stick a pry bar in and jamb the flywheel, but you run the risk of breaking off teeth on the flywheel... If you're going to try and jamb the pulley with a bolt, I like to use the biggest diameter steel punch/drift I have (that will fit) to jamb through the pulley against the block if I have to go that route. The steel the punch is made out of is really hard....you run the risk of cracking your timing cover if you set that up wrong though... A video I did on that particular maneuver. ua-cam.com/video/dhnO6fh5kn4/v-deo.html At this point you might be willing to sacrifice your pulley to get it off . When I had to weld that cracked impact socket to my pulley bolt it didn't harm the pulley at all (positive there was no rubber in that pulley.) That was on an '85 truck.
IM calling bullshit either the bolt came off or you rounded it the fuck off or your missed a step. Now which is it?
So if you bump it loose how do you tighten it again?
Put it in gear and have someone stand on the brakes. You can also use a pulley wrench or strap wrench to hold the pulley. You can pull a spark plug and feed cordage into the cylinder so it blocks the piston on the uptravel of the compression stroke and locks the crank still. You can pull the starter and jam the flywheel. Of course you can also buy the right tools for holding the pulley still, but then you wouldn't need to use the starter bump removal method... Basically you just need to find a way to hold the crank from turning while you torque the crankshaft pulley bolt.
Couldn't the bump starter method cause damage to the flywheel for example?
It's possible you could damage teeth on the flywheel or the starter input gear. Never had it happen though. Sometimes you have to weigh the need to get the bolt out against the slim chance of damaging something else.
any feed back would be highly appreciated
Works great I would recommend not disabling the ignition if it starts it will spin the bolt out for you even.
what can happen if the coil is not disconnected and the car is in park?
You don't want the engine to fire...period. You want it to try and turn over, but not start. It's basically using the torque of the starter motor to try and spin the engine which will break the bolt loose if you have the breaker bar secured. If the engine starts...bad things are probably going to happen when everything flies apart. The engine is still going to spin and start if the car is in park and it fires up. You have to make sure the engine will not fire...
if that engine fires up damage to the radiator the socket and ratchet go flying hit someone in the head and damage to you truck that can be expensive... if you don't have prior experience doing this kind of work don't try it for your safety brother , be safe
In an auto, what gear should I be in?
You're talking to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt right? Since the torque converter on the auto is always going to slip no matter what gear you are in if the engine is off, you'll need to find a way to hold the crankshaft pulley still while you torque the bolt down. Probably going to have to use an actual pulley holding tool get the that job done right. (Something like this: goo.gl/wNXTPf ) If someone else has a suggestion, please chime in down in the comments.
Do i put it in nuetral if its auto tho ?
Park or neutral for auto. You just need to be able to crank the engine over. YOU STILL NEED TO MAKE SURE THE ENGINE WON'T START (pull the coil wire).
What happens if the engine does fire up?
Best case scenario is it unscrews the bolt really quick. Worst case is the socket and breaker bar fall off, get caught in the rotating assembly on the front of the engine and break $*#! or get flung really hard.
I did this, however i drained the oil the night before since i need to replace na front main seal and re-gasket the front timing cover. It took a split of a second. And i know this is plain fucking stupid from my end. I just wanna ask, how big are the chancss for a bearing to have spun?
You're probably fine. There's always a thin film of oil left on all the surfaces after you drain it and as long as you didn't start it and run it I doubt you did any damage just bumping it over.
@@WheeliePete Yeah I was hopping on that as well for the engine not been completely dried up. Everything went fine as for the repair. Cheers. 🍻
Please note, before you ask
This method does NOT work on hondas as the starter will tighten the bolt
I get asked this mutiple times a week
I also get asked how to remove the bolt once its snapped off in there
John Strong, do you mean Honda Odyssey bolts come off clockwise?
Can i do this without timing belt
As long as the crankshaft will spin when you turn the engine over. You need to make sure your engine turns in the right direction and you need to be 100% certain you don't have an interference style engine because without a timing belt on an interference engine the piston will come up and hit any fully open valves without the timing belt. This video is specific to the Toyota 22R series engines which have timing chains, not belts.
Pulling the fuse for the fuel pump momentarily
I'm not sure what vehicle you're working on and pulling that fuse may work, but you have to make sure that the engine cannot fire. Pulling the fuel pump fuse may still let the engine fire momentarily on residual fuel in the system.
this wont mess up my timing will it?
No. Your timing between the crank and the camshaft is set by the timing chain. The ignition timing is controlled by the position of the distributor. Removing the crankshaft pulley bolt and crankshaft pulley has no effect on timing.
That's only for clockwise rotating engine.
Clockwise as you face the front of the engine. All Toyota 22r series engines rotate this direction.
I tried all of these “tricks” and none worked. Put the heat wrench to it and it finally broke loose.
I had someone press of the brakes and that bolt gave using 1/2" breaker bar.
Mine must be in there super tight bc this method isn't working
Then you're probably going to need one of these www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH64300-Toyota-Harmonic-Holding/dp/B0051XDBBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504396108&sr=8-1&keywords=toyota+crankshaft+pulley+holder
and a huge breaker bar...
Heat it with a torch first. Trust me
did not work for me. Bolt stuck good.
You're probably going to need to get the pulley holding tool then to immobilize it. Did you try heating the bolt head up? I had one once that was so stuck I cracked an impact socket trying to get it out. I got mad and just mig-welded the socket to the top of the bolt and with all the heat from the weld, the bolt came right out after that.
I just tried this on a 1mz Lexus because 7 minutes of MAP gas and a 3/4" impact gun failed me. ...and it literally stripped out my starter. Whoever did the tbelt on this last deserves cancer or something.
Oh...that just sucks.... Sounds like someone gunned the bolt on the last time when they did the timing. Sometimes if someone gets crazy with the impact gun installing a bolt they can actually stretch and bind the threads between the bolt and the crankshaft causing endless amounts of grief for the next person... I don't care what people say, you NEVER, NEVER, NEVER install those bolts with an impact. It's just lazy and often causes more problems down the road. There's a reason there's a torque value assigned by the manufacturer.... Hope you can get that thing off of there... Maybe start soaking it in penetrating spray and hope some makes it down into the threads...
I got a 40" long 3/4" drive breaker bar in the mail today. Still waiting for the 22mm socket for it, but I'm hopeful... Might have to make a video too ;)
I don’t recommend to do this, I did on my ford, and the pistons hit the valves as the timing belt will become lose once you unscrew the bolt !!!
Good to know, but this isn't a Ford video, and the Toyota 22R series engine's timing chain will NOT come loose if you unscrew the crankshaft pulley. the lower timing gear is captured on the crankshaft with a woodruff key and is trapped behind the oil pump housing and timing cover.
@@WheeliePete well…I guess I was unlucky 😂
This works but only for engines that rotate clockwiseeee, do not attempt this in an engine that rotates the other way !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
75 people are missing teeth.