How To DIY Dry Pour A Large Concrete Slab In Real Time
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- Опубліковано 17 бер 2023
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This is a great idea. 81 sft per yard (9'x9') at 4" thick and about 54 bags per yard. Your material cost are as follows: 2 cubic yards is 102 bags at $5.95 per is over $606.00 total. For Ready Mix You are looikng at about $150.00 per yard and $150.00 delivery charge, so its about $450.00, so you have thrown away $150.00 on the dry pour.
How much would it cost me to have a professional concrete crew with tools and experience, finish the pour? Does concrete truck drivers carry tools and finish it for you? If so, I did not realize labor was free with concrete and the only real cost was materials and delivery. Thank you for the inside scope.
@@renetto Also, considering where it is in his yard. It's a high chance of having to order of pump, which is $300 per hour.
I never suggested that you hire professionals to place the concrete, the amount of work you performed to "dry" pour is cloes to the amount of work you did to wet pour, using screeds floats etc.@@renetto
@@jeffneedham6875 well having to wheelbarrow that amount of wet concrete is not far off the amount of work to bring each bag to that area, unless 80lbs has gotten lighter.
@@georgeharrison979 should i rent a mixer. I don't have a truck. Should I be worried that concert is going to harden quicker than I can figure out what to do next? I ended up pouring almost 400 square feet of pad by the time I was finished. Doing it a section at time and learning as I go was priceless. Just like your comments.
As I read through the comments and see all the haters, professional concrete workers, talk about this won't last for 6mos, 1 yr, or 2 yrs. Then I look at my drive way, sidewalks, and every other place that you see cracked or broken concrete installed by Professional Concrete tradesmen... your professional opinions are laughable. This man is doing what he wants on his property and enjoying his work. He is educating and inspiring some of us to get motivated and do it ourselves and be proud of our work...
And the fact that he’s on hard packed sand in a state that doesn’t have frost issues, I think this will probably last as long as any other kind of slab.
From another video there’s definitely a strength difference between dry vs wet mix but as long as he isn’t dropping heavy items on the ground he shouldn’t witness any chipping.
This concept of a dry pour can be done. You can also build your home out of cardboard and toilet paper. Should you? No, but you can. This method has been scientifically proven stupid. Dry pour absolutely sucks, water is wet, sugar is sweet, deal with it.
iv done it all since i was a little boy but i still do it the easy way
I like your comment... a friend slant $15k and it's got cracking everywhere. That's only in 3 months after the wet pour..
Myself. I'd do it dry for walkways & patios, and small batch mixed with a portable mixer for sections for the driveways
Dry pour is weaker and chips much easier. Drop a hammer on dry pour and you will chip it.
I love the spirit of this video! Reminds me of what I love about UA-cam videos. Just a humble guy sharing his experience with me as he goes. Unpolished. Unscripted. Beautiful! Great job!
I agree man. It's great to see Paul has got some serious views on this video as well. :-)
Vod UA-cam has went down hill this definitely is refreshing.
I secOnd that!! UNSCRIPTED
It’s a great, chilled out vid. As you mentioned, this is what UA-cam is all about. The footwear for this task is absolutely outrageous though 😂😂
I love is attitude, I can do. If it's not mix properly, it will crumble.
This video is what youtube was all about back in the days. It is simple, positive, and fill you up with energy.
Looks like you had fun, and for your purposes, this is a good process. As someone who spent 40+years in the concrete business, let me rush to tell you NOT to allow your bare hands and feet to come into contact with even moist concrete without cleaning them immediately. Concrete burns are real and severe. Thanks for a very enjoyable video.
How thick would it need to be if one were doing a driveway instead? Also, how do you account for a slight sloping? We need to do our driveway so bad, but we definitely can't afford to pay professionals. Happy to diy if its manageable for us. Any thoughts you can offer would be greatly appreciated!
You need four inches thick for a driveway. You can do it on a slope just as on level ground, provided you are careful to only mist the concrete each time, just to the point where no water runs down your slope. The good thing about this method, too, is that, as long as you're very careful about maintaining a consistent grade, you can do it in multiple pours over a period of time, as cash allows you.
@@johnmcafee9741how about for a house to sit on?
@@garryb.1334 your load bearing areas...exterior walls, interior load bearing walls...need at least a foot in width and 18" deep. You slab itself is good at 4".
That and the inordinate amount of dust he just breathed in... yikes.
The most impressive part of this video is how you had a wheelbarrow but decided to lug the bags of concrete one by one anyway
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
in flip flops for crying out loud
Great catch😂😂😂😂
New olympic sport: concrete marathon
CrossFit
Nice work. Concrete is brutal on your hands. The very nature of the stuff will pull the moisture out of your skin, then the chemical burns that can occur. People react differently to it, but minimizing skin contact is important. Concrete hardens as it hydrates, think what the concrete dust will do when it gets in your lungs, nice moist environment. Your choice. Some people watching may not understand the chemistry of concrete and how it works.
Inhaling cement is even more dangerous. Having a mask would help
Was thinking the same thing, his hands will get burnt
Plus keep your pets off of it for a long time until after it is well cured. A friend who does concrete told me the horror story of when they whipped out a pad for a dog kennel and what it did to the dog. Not a nice story at all. I am sure walking across it would be fine, but spending any significant time on a new pad is a problem.
Yeah....Doing concrete with bare hands and flip flops is nuts yet he warns of leaving the rake pointing up. The guy yaps and was totally disorganized. It was painful to watch. I nearly punched my new Apple MacBook Air.
MurphyMB- I was thinking the same thing and I was looking at his feet. No shoes like that should be any where near that concrete dust He oughta have on boots or shoes something that the concrete will not be able to get to the skin. I worked at concert pouring and finishing for several years and that is the first thing you should learn. Concrete will cauuse problems with your feet and hand even later in life. It can make your hands and feet breakout and peel, if you do it for a long time in your life, Talking from experience.
Thank You
C. Escue
Brighton, TN
He's gone full Florida man. Open toed sandals doing concrete work. Awesome!
I worked in the masonry business my whole life and I have also poured miles of concrete the traditional way. A few years ago my propane tank sunk for the last time and I decided I was going to dry pour it. I built a rectangle out of 2x4s around the tank and lifted it with my tractor and started dumping bags. I threw some rebar in it as I went, but basically did the exact technique. I blocked it up and let sit for about a week and it hasn't moved yet! You if you're not done, try sawing your screed as you slide it and the concrete will be perfectly smooth. Looks great! my next project is to raise my AC condenser.
I agree and I have poured my share too. word of caution is to go easy on the water...just damp it or the cement will sink through the gravel. cover with a tarp and be patient. I'm going to do a long skinny slab mixing #1 crusher run and portland mixed dry in a mixer. will be interesting. just a barn porch, not structural.
(This was submitted on another site by a civil engineer. What's your opinion on this way of laying concrete?)
@mikehewitt1253
1 month ago (edited)
Dear all, let me try to help everyone understand concrete.
The cement part of any mortar or concrete reacts with water in a hydraulic chemical reaction (exothermic reaction i.e. generates heat). When thoroughly cured, meaning allowing enough time for this reaction to take place and preferably throughout all the cement particles where they become irreversibly hardened and water proof.
However, cement on it's own will shrink significantly and crack all over so it needs a binder - sand - this 'stretches' the cement through the mix so when it hardens via Curing it's bonded to lot's of already hard sand particles and more cement particles alike creating a hard material that doesn't crack - mortar.
However 😁 mortar is not strong in itself. For strength we add Aggregate, ideally for strength you want some flat, some irregular stones (not pebble like) of 3 sizes - pea size, golf ball size and halfway between those - giving us Concrete when Cured throughout.
Now, I've watched many dry pour vids with interest and listened to the nay sayers saying it has to be WET to cure and therefore dry pour is nonsense.........
Time for education folks where (after that which I have outlined above) you will be surprised that I'm on the side of dry pour ....... SORT OF......
When dry pouring, it is tamped thoroughly down before spraying - this is GOOD - but cement particles and sand particles and aggregate elements throughout will not all receive moisture, will not Cure and will remain as dust in parts - not good.
BUT Wet is not great either! It's CONVENIENT.
The best, strongest concrete is Mechanical Concrete which is made with JUST ENOUGH water to provide moisture throughout for correct curing.
The test is - grab a small fist full, squeeze hard together in palm of hand and if doesn't hold shape and crumbles when released from pressure, needs more moisture. The shape should Break cleanly in two pieces without crumbling - if stretches in the break test, it's too wet.
So my recommendation to all is........
Dry pour mix thoroughly together with rake, add moisture by spraying so as not to over-wet BUT rake that moisture throughout and THEN Tamp down hard compacting it all properly and level off.
All this 24 hrs later stuff is inadequate - Minimum curing time is a month - covered to keep that minimum moisture in the mixed pad, base, driveway, - shouldn't be touched, don't go near it - best of both worlds here as easy as Dry Pour and stronger than the normal convenient Wet stuff which because of too much moisture cannot be as compacted and consolidated to provide the same strength.
Go Mechanical guys, it's the best. Anyone want to hear my views on Earthcrete, which I find fascinating - by the way - I'm a Civil Engineer - spent an entire year studying Concrete - an entire bloody year on nothing but concrete.
PS DON'T use quickset anything, you won't have enough time for all rake work, use standard Portland.
Man, for $40, the audio quality on that wireless mic is phenomenal.
I agree.
😂😂😂😂
@@renetto I would love a link to this mic, I'd like to get one!
@@Aelanna yes, me too.
What brand of mic is that. It sounds amazing. Can u share a link or a pic of the Amazon page. Thanks and great job.
I always get a good chuckle when I see guys doing construction while wearing sandals!
The Egyptian's and Mayan's did a pretty good job with similar apparel.
If you don't wet the sand you will give yourself more time get it the way you want it. Also, you do not really need the mesh, but it can't hurt. After the mesh you don't have to wet the area. You can wait and do all the water at end. Shake the leveling 2x4 left to right as you move down the pad. Try a paint roller lightly over the top layer before watering. It will give you a great look. Watering at the end will make it a little easier, mist lightly and repeat in one hour. Then water 2 times for every inch of concrete so you will want to water every hour for 8 hours. Not to much on the water. At the end you will one 4in slab instead of 2 - 2in slabs, long run it will be stronger. I enjoyed you video, great work. Thank you.
Good tips
people shouldn't give advises if they don't know what they are talking about.
@@temujinkhan6326 I don't consider it as an advice. To me it's and ideas/different ways of doing things from the usual norms , ie trial and error .
@@tinaforbes1059 the person i comment to doesn't know what they are talking about. You can have an idea but if you never actually put it in practice or even have a clue about concrete then you shouldnt make comments that can cause a DIY thousands of dollars. It cost more to remove concrete in most cases
@@temujinkhan6326what’s your advice since you’re saying this is a bad idea?
Got to admit you put in the work. I'm work with concrete weekly and would recommend to anyone planning on doing this, get a mixer instead and mix with the correct ratios of water, otherwise your going to get weak spots that'll rub away with a light shoe twist.
Good video but, this might work okay in a climate like Florida. But in the north where there is frost and freeze - thaw cycles I would fear the concrete would delaminate at the top or totally fail at the rewire. Also , I would try regular mortar mix on that second layer. You wouldn't be dealing with the aggregate on top when screed and finish.This is interesting though.
Been working with it all my life, I wanna see the same slabs in 6 months and a year. Guaranteed they fail spectacularly. This has got to be some of the worst concrete advice I've ever seen. Second only to puoring in the rain or when its far too cold.
@@mohawkman2888 Exactly.
I would use this for a driveway but not structural. For structural it is a dangerous idea.
To get a smoother finish, seesaw the screed back and forth as you are pulling the dry mix level
I think you would’ve had was less patting, if you had shimmied the pull board side to side as you floated front to back, and used a dry paint roller to finish smooth before misting the final stage. Looks good though, thanks for letting us watch.
yeah i saw anther vid where they shimmied the pull board and that slab looked perfect!
Dude, the reasoning you gave for doing this in the intro sounds exactly like the internal dialogue I have with myself for every DIY project. No rush, no condescending judgments. Just a nice, self-paced job.
The arguments against outside-the-box methods like this remind me of the people that like to bash Harbor Freight and "foreign tools" because they say they won't last X amount of years. Maybe so, but they're also 1/3 the price. Worst case scenario, I need to buy 3 over the course of the "quality" tool lifetime. But still, I enjoy fixing things, and I'll have a lot of back up parts.
The only thing I'd do differently is PPE, but it should be noted that I don't really know any of the possible risks involved here and, personally, I tend to be irrationally over-cautious.
Edit: spelling correction
Ive heard my share of "no harbor freight and no foreign tools" and they're the same folks that bash everything and then mostly do a crappy job except on certain well defined tasks that they do the same way over and over. I dont touch those contractors anymore. However that is *different* than complaining about out-of-the-box methods. The latter have "more to prove" - and should do so before being considered for important projects. The tried and true does have the advantage of history/experience. Before using dry pack I would need studies showing when it works and when it does not and how to mitigate the risks of not doing a proper water/concrete mixing. It's about science here - and that groundwork has not been provided here to my satisfaction. Show me studies and I'm interested. Not just a couple of examples (chicken coop etc) that do not reflect ten years of battling the elements. I'm all for simplifying processes but only with evidence they're not damaging/risky to the final product.
The problem with dry mix is that it would appear impossible to quantify the amount of water the concrete gets. The amount needed for optimal strength is fairly critical. Further, the water distribution will not be uniform throughout the mix. @@StephenBoesch
For a novice you did great! The wood float is used to knock the rocks down and bring The "cream" to the top so it's smoother. Of course that's when pouring wet but I think it would still kinda work especially after you mist it a bit. If you really want a smooth top get the steel float, not the magnesium the steel, looks kinda like sheet metal with a handle. That will really slick it up, espacially after you wet it down a little. Be careful, you should really wear rubber gloves, concrete will give you a chemical burn. People react differently to it but it can be pretty nasty, it never really got me but I've seen some people have a pretty bad skin burn from it. You're probably done by now anyway but maybe that will help someone a little.
I've done enough, a friend borrowed my concrete tools a year or two ago and I told him not to bring them back, I'm done with it. Lol
Yep, the potential burn and breathing all that concrete dust in, no mask, not cool. Should use gloves, a mask and goggles when its in the air.
Was thinking the same thing. Lye eats your skin and for a white person to walk around with PINK SKIN is not very appealing or pleasant. Chemical Lye burns the epidermis and handling it without gloves will make you realize rather quickly in a few days just how bad that really is. Ya know, the stuff comes with directions for a reason and also MSDS Sheets.
On the back of the bags across the middle is a line. If you cut these bags along that line with a box cutter instead of ax busting a hole in them, emptying the bags will take half the time and you can do it slowly, minimizing the drift of concrete dust. Gives real nice control of dumping the mix out of the bags too. I really like doing dry pour method for less refine top finish slabs.
Thanks for taking the time to show how it’s done been contemplating on trying it myself 👍
This video was exactly what I needed. I been on the fence for a few years now. I see no reason to pay some company 6k to do a area no bigger than what your done in this video. This was/ is a cool video. I’m inspired 👍🏽Thank you!
Just bought 100 bags for 4$ only saved like $50 buying 100 but they are delivering it.
Don’t dry pour it !!! Mix it in a wheelbarrow or even a bucket if you have to in order to save money but it will be far better then a dry pour !!! It doesn’t require all kinds of extra equipment doing it your self properly on a small scale .
Order a concrete truck and pour yourself. It's not hard at all. Rent a power skreed (really helps out). Having one helper will really help you out. I did an 18x30 slab (twice actually since i did an addition on it) like that. It was far more intimidating than anything.
Don’t do it this way
It’s built to last a lunchtime.
I’m an old pool builder.
Actually, I built new pools. But I’m old.
You can form it up and do all the work yourself. Plenty of how to on UA-cam
And it’s easy to figure the yardage
4’x8’X6” inches is a yard
With 10-15% extra
Tell them you want 3/4 inch rock at 5,000 lbs with a 12 inch slump.
Traditional thickness is 4 inches. So 8’x10’ 4 in is a exact yard with no extra.
But it’s better to be long than short. Or you run into all sorts of problems.
Most concrete companies have a 3 yard minimum
Probably 150.00 a yard depending on where you live.
Have an extra area ready to use extra concrete if you have it. Or for the driver to wash out in.
Like where your rain gutters drain. Or make some 12x12 frames and make a couple stepping stones.
I had to correct myself on my numbers above.
Your mileage may very
Try to have everything ready day before and pour early in the am.
Good luck
@@Oldcrow77
Before wetting, you can run the 2x4 side to side to level and it will also make a nice finish and hide the rocks. Then, mist afterwards. You can also run a paint roller after misting and it will leave a really nice finish.
I saw a video comparing concrete mixes for posts. Fully mixing beforehand turns out harder and more long-lasting than dry pouring (because it all mixes together more thoroughly and consistently). However, as you mentioned, more equipment and cement trucks = more costs. if you were driving a car over it every day, then it would be more critical, but for small sheds and walking, it looks pretty good. Would be curious if you can give an update after a year or two to show how it holds up over time. I would prefer to do it this way too where I can set my own pace and budget. You're giving me some ideas. Good luck with it!
I believe I've seen the same, the video also used the foam mix too!?! Yes. Thanks awesom
@@gawdzalien2811 Yes, sounds like the same video :-) Cost, time, manual effort, and concrete strength = various options.
Would love to see an update after 10 years. I hope it is still standing strong.
That’s gonna crack all over the place
@@bobbydee1187 I built my wood shed platform with dry bags 90 80lbs bags. no mesh been there 10 years with 15 cords of oak stored every season. Even had a row fall down a few times. along with my tractor dumping the bucket full on the concrete..NO CRACKS yet..wonder if I had put mesh would it have been even better.
The video, the content, the commentary & the comment threads - all such a pleasure to listen & read through. It is inspiring to see a different approach to small scale projects, and glad he took the time to share.
The mic quality was solid, too. For all the moving & shuffling around - audio was overall consistently clear.
Welcome back to UA-cam Champ! These long waits for a Renetto video are painful but worth it! P.s the sound is much better man!
I'll need to do a video about the mic. I'm loving it.
@@renetto great idea Paul. That's one way to get some views too. I watch a lot of camera channels and phone reviews. They seem to do well. Review your new phone too man. It's worth thinking about. Tutorials on things etc. Anyway, whatever you decide, cheers Paul. :-)
Thank you for this! I've been watching all the folks up north do dry pour and I have been curious how it would work down here (waving from across the bay). You have given me the confidence to give it a go. As others have said, an update in a few months to a year would be well appreciated. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
Our sandy compacted soil is perfect for this method. My latest video proves it.
@@renetto watching it now. Congrats concrete ninja! From one buckeye transplant to another, Great job!
A contractor here orders 6 bag mix for all his projects. It still cracks.
Not only was this informative but entertaining as well! Love the humor!
Dry pouring concrete is fine as long as its not structural or load bearing. In general strength tends to be 60-80% strength and it can have more structural defects on the interior where the mix was not quite the right ratio (the concrete washed off the aggregate too much). But when you are talking patios, storage shed floors, etc you don't need the 3000-4000 psi of your normal concrete mix, unless you're building a machine shop floor, garage, etc. You can also use some Portland cement in the very top bit to get a cleaner finish (or build a small screen and filter some of the heavier aggregate out of a bag. Next time after about an hour or two just cover your pad with a cheapo plastic dropcloth, and then just wet it down again once a day for 3-4 days. After a day or two it should be fine to walk on. And then just avoid driving your car, tractor, bobcat over it for a week or two.
Another thing you can do for your backyard projects is stabilized earth/sand/gravel. You basically take 4-5 inches of dirt and replace 30-50% with cement (just kind of dug in well with a shovel). Then you tamp it flat and wet it down over a few days. It'll just give you a very hard-pack surface a base for pavers, a pathway, under planters, etc. After a few weeks stabilized soil will be pretty solid, but if you wanted to in the future you could still break it up with a lot of elbow grease and hand tools.
A dusk mask should be used because fine concrete fine dust is not good for your lungs. A voice over would be OK. It would be interesting to do a strength test vs. the traditional mix.
Yeah, but some people are clostrophbic
@@leahrowe847 what has that got to do with anything
@ghostofdre I was commenting on the Mask thing... there's legitimate reasons people don't wear them like Claustrophobia.
Silicosis kills you
I like dawn masks better than "dusk" masks.
Omg. I loved your video. I have NO IDEA how well that slab will do but your commentary is hysterical. Thank you 🙏
GREAT JOB! Thank you very much for sharing all of the details to perfect this. Makes me feel confident in doing this myself!
Love this clip! and seem to be seeing more and more people "dry pouring" smaller pads now.
The only thing I can recommend when pulling the board over the top is keep it shimmying side to side, helps a lot with binging the cement to the top without the stones (not 100% but it helps)
HE LIKES TO SLAP THE CEMENT WITH THE PAD 😂 NOT SHIMMER
Not to take away from the great tips in doing a dry pour, but I would advise anyone who is going to do this method to read the Sakrete High Strength Concrete Mix Safety Data Sheet and use the proper PPE ✌
Yes! Invest in some work boots, not flip-flops. Include gloves and an N95 mask for the dust. That dust is actually a chemical.
Excellent job, this is a Tutorial, best concrete padding I’ve ever seen on UA-cam, fun to watch, entertaining, and instructional. I've been trying to do something like this at my front door porch, and backyard sitting area, and after seen this Video Am confident I can do it. And if needed, I can always revisit this Video, I am in Northeast Florida !
Exactly what I’m looking to do. I’m so glad I came across this video. Great job! Thanks.
Awesome video, looking at doing this myself for a stock tank pool foundation and small patio. It's the year of the dry pour!
Hahahaha...viva la revolution!
Definitely good to watch. For your application, how you've done this will work just fine. For a finished look, you might consider a rounded edge, simple enough to do. Good Job.
I did a dry pour to create a 19ft×4ft x 3 feet deep front porch and I loved it & saved a LOT Of money!!
2 tons of fill & 200 bags of gravel rocks and metal mesh we are enjoying a decent front porch!! your doing good. I didn't mist anything until I covered my metal mesh with concrete and finished it off . I Learned about self leveling concrete to cover the mesh to the top. I LOVE what your doing. Awesome job
This is amazing, I enjoyed every bit of it! Inspired me to tackle my home project!!
I was watching another dry pour slab and to get rid of rocks on the surface, they went side to side many time quickly which caused the rocks to sink. He then used an edge concrete tool to soften the edge and a dirt paint roller to smooth it all out. Looked fantastic! I,m researching if nI can do a driveway this way, but I have my doubts due to vehicle weight and needing like 5000 psi type. Good job with your project.
You don't need 5000 PSI concrete, especially if its sitting on subgrade, unless its a very heavy vehicle, and then I would worry more about proper subgrade compaction and maybe some minor steel reinforcement like this guy did in the video
Interesting video. A couple things to comment on. First, because of the lime and it's effect on skin, wear gloves when handling the premix and boots to keep it off your feet, they will be sore otherwise. And a cheap filter mask will keep you from getting lime dust in your lungs. And there are some other videos on finishing the top layer, but a follow-up would be nice to see how they come out. Thanks!
I really like your storytelling style! Very entertaining!! This is the first video of yours I’ve seen, I’m looking forward to going through your library here!
Love your commentary sooo soo much ❤ and thank you for teaching us actually I have started DIY projects, they are hard but it feels so satisfying.
There should probably be some consideration that you are doing this in an area where the ground does not freeze. In ordinary concrete application when they mix is screed and floated floated part of the objective is to settle the larger stones under the surface cousin freezing weather Stones can expand differently than the concrete around them causing the stones to pop and brake which makes a pockmark in the surface. With dry poor you won't be able to settle the stones a fine mix is recommended so no stones. I also highly recommend you simply cover the whole thing with plastic and let it set for 4-5 days guaranteeing the highest level of moisture in it for that time.
When you said a fine mix, do you mean like the type that is used for countertops? I live in the high desert and the weather can be in the teens in winter and even down to 5 degrees. Thanks!!
I wonder if you could top this with 1" of pure sand/cement mix to get a smooth, non-stone-popping finish. Would be easier to level also
I saw the same video of the couple doing the concrete for the chicken coop. I’ve been curious since. They made a second video not too long ago. And it really got me interested in doing this so I’m super glad that you are also trying it out. I have all three videos in a playlist to watch straight through. I am particularly excited to see the one where you drive a truck on it. I’ve always been curious how the concrete would hold up to impact or weight
I did this in my coop 8 years ago. No problems whatsoever
Same!
Seen that couple vid 🙋♂️.
Michael builds did a video too
I watched another video on same topic and it was different than this one.
I'm right there with you on doing it slowly by yourself and I also did that same thing and so far it's looking good. I'm in Michigan so once the warmer weather gets here I'll be finishing my project. Be Safe and Enjoy
I live an hour away from you and thinking about doing it the same way. Just had to see your work to reassure myself. Thank you for sharing your experience
This maybe the best vlog you have ever made. The sound is amazing, your mind is focused, I love it!!
Wow, thank you!
Thank you for showing this, step-by-step. I have a patio pour I will be doing next month a 15 x 18, and I want to use form pattern with it, and maybe even use a dye with the concrete. I too have searched for a similar size project, to no avail. I figured I would just do the same thing others did, but on a larger scale.
My friends tell me I'm crazy to try and do this. I can't wait to see their faces when it's done. I am saving your video to watch again, and will try to figure out how to send photos when it's done.
Better listen to your friends, not you tube
@@softail1951😂
Oddly satisfying! Thanks for taking the time to post this vid!
Everyone just criticizes, noone ever just gives pointers or tries to help. Everyone is a "professional"....lmao its literally laughable. Hes not trying to take anyone's work or profession...the man is trying to save himself some money, learn a thing or two and help someone else in the process, and yet in the world we live in...thats "wrong"....nice video man...thanks for the content!!!
Thank you it sure looked easier than mixing in a wheelbarrow and trying to float the whole slab at once.
Rent a mixer or buy one at Harbor Freight makes more sense.
This is the most down to earth video I have ever seen! Good job Bro 👍🏽
Thank you. I do appreciate the kind words.
@renetto what mic did you use?ty
Excellent video that will help me tremendously two weeks from now when I'm pouring a 12x24 slab on my property.
nicely done brother!!
I've never did a dry pour but after watching you and a couple other vids I'm feeling good about stripping my driveway of the asphalt and dry pour a New one. Many thanks for sharing
I love this kind of video. Well done!
Thank you!
next time you pour, maybe try using a roller paint brush and an extension handle just roll it back and fourth a few times, it tends to push the rock down and bring up the powder and leave you with a smooth surface.
Great idea!
I saw the same video of a guy using a roller the way u just explained and it worked mint.
Paint roller lol just get a magnesium trowel and a steel trowel lol maybe a 2x4 float . Don’t dry mix do it properly it’s a breeze not a lot of extra cost .if you want texture use a broom 🧹
Fantastic !!!!
Thank you so much
When I think of the tens of thousands of people you have helped it makes me feel so good for what you have done
So awesome buddy
My goodness you are a very determined man. That makes for good work. Love your hard work.
Take your leveling board and move it side to side quickly. It will smooth the top so there is no gravel showing. Mist very gently to set the concrete without gravel coming through the top layer.
Often people pour slabs in the backyard after they've buried a body.
😂
RIP Greg Solomon.
@@renetto yes we have not heard from him in a while
😂
😂
Great job getting out and working! Lots of Monday morning quarterbacks here with no dirt in their hands and definitely no finished sheds to use. Keep going at it!
I have never seen this method and I will be trying it for my next shed slab build at the House. thank you!
Instead of the wooden float you can roll it with a foam paint roller and it leaves a excellent finish.
I had to stop and watch this video when it popped up in suggestions. I watched the couple from Tennessee dry pour a porch and they did it completely dry and just came back every hour to spray water on it. I'm over here in Tampa and yeah there's plenty of sand in the yard. I have to grab bags of dirt and compost from HD to get the top soil growing
Hey Michael St Johns county Florida here. Get a large tote drill a few drain holes and rip up newspaper cardboard raked leaves layer with food scraps of any kind. I started an old cooler last October with just the drain plug opened add a layer of FL sand and started pouring leftovers that went bad coffee grounds etc. but I had to loosely cover mine due to critters. then let the black solider flies (better in warmer weather they hatch & multiply faster than worms) worms micro critters etc come crawl in and do their magic by January I had a ton of worms in there just remember put plenty of cardboard torn up. Yes, I put meat, spaghetti sauce, etc. NOW I have BLACK wet worm soil that I mix with more Florida sand. The plants love it. Take the worms and put them with the processed food cardboard into other containers and let them multiply more worms as you use the containers as garbage disposals. They say no fats meat etc. but It works for me no smell once you bury it and cover it well with cardboard layers than a lid propped open for oxygen & critters.
I stop buying garden soil & fertilizer for years. Oh doing forget other people's leaves in bags wet leaves are best and grass clippings etc OOPS A LAYER of sticks on the bottom 1st...they attract micro critters as they break down ENJOY I hope it makes sense!
Thanks. Enjoyed your video. I will note that your wheel barrow gets waaay too much rest but, I do admire your enthusiasm. Thanks again.
This popped up in the recommended section. I was thinking about fixing the driveway at the house I just bought. I did watch a few videos, like you did, that were doing tiny 4 ft sections but nothing large like this. You get a like and a sub from me. I may try fixing my driveway now doing it this dry method way. Looks easy. Just have to do all the prep, that's the key. Like painting a room. Once you get everything prepped correctly it's easy and practically does it itself.
This is cool! I am planning on doing this as well after watching Cajun Country Living do theirs! Thanks for taking the leap and showing me it can be done!
My only question is, will the 2x4s in between each pad be a problem later on. Like maybe they should be removed after each section is done? Im guessing here.
Yes. I did one section at a time. My latest video shows me doing the last of the 4 sections I broke this job up into.
@@renetto Where are the other videos?
If you have never done concrete work before, I highly recommend gloves, socks etc. The concrete will pull all the moisture out of your skin if you are not used to it. Won't kill you but cracked and dry skin isn't fun.
I kept looking at the Wheelbarrow scratching my head but then again it's a good work out.
Funny way to put that! “scratching my head” Forget to use my wheelbarrow when it’s right there
Love the video, I wish I could buy you a cold drink of some kind lol! It's fabulous how you work so hard, only to show us how to do something ourselves. So thank you again for your hard work, very inspirational.
Could you elaborate on why there is gravel in the next couple slabs that have not been poured but not on the one you poured in the video. Also what will you do for the seams in between each slab? Nice work, been thinking about doing something like this to make my own shed on the 5 acre property we live on.
probably inbetween the slabs he could let grass grow or even use river rock stones with some LED lights in, it would look cool at night...just my 2 cents...not sure what he did.
This looks great . I'd never considered this approach before 👍. Question: When its time to pour the next adjacent slab , do you pull the wood former between and do a typical slab break "expansion joint" between the two , pouring that adjacent slab in contact with the previous one ?
I know nothing but probably good to have expansion joint, especially in colder climates. I use fence board for the joint. Any wood you use is going to rot anyway.
I love the chatting and super fun laugh that happens during this. As a 68 year old who is building his own home by myself I like that this gentleman seems "mature" also.
So I did a 30sqft dry pour this weekend and all I can say is you made this look easy... but it's still heavy hard work!
I'm starting to see a pattern of dry concrete installers and them wearing flip flops. Maybe it's just me.
Saw one comment but no reply that I’d like to see answered. Why are the other 2 framed out spots filled with loose gravel and the one you did just holding sand. Was there a reason or just experimenting? If the latter, which one was the best?
That looks like so much fun. I want to do one. Thank you for sharing
Well done, also quite enjoyable to watch. 🕊️❤️
if you want to keep from getting sores on you feet and hands from the lime in the concrete, I suggest you wear cover for both. You can neutralize the lime with vinegar mixed with water 50/50. the lime will literally eat holes in your skin.
I wonder how strong this dry pour really is.
Being from Florida myself but living out of the states. I totally like this video.
Thank you! Finally a dry pour video worthy of watching
Glad it was helpful!
Nice job I have seen smaller jobs done like this but love your idea of doing bigger areas as you did .One hint thought to save your back a little? Maybe use the Wheelbarrow to bring more bags of cement to the area your working on . How about a shovel to cut the bags open as well .
The shovel works great for opening the bags, and there is a little tear tab on one end, usually.
I find that a trenching shovel and a wheel barrel will mix it up quite easily with a gallon of water or so per bag.
Obviously, you aren't in an area where you need to worry about freeze/thaw.
If there is a chance for freeze/thaw events, exterior concrete needs to be air entrained (about 5-7%) and have a smooth finish. The smooth finish prevents moisture from getting inside the concrete and expanding when it freezes. The air entrainment adds tiny air bubbles inside the concrete to allow room for expansion during freeze events.
Without those 2 things, concrete will break itself apart, in northern climates, in a few short years.
Also, without precise amounts of water, some of the cement powder may not hydrate (cure) sufficiently. Too much water can greatly decrease the cured strength.
If you order your concrete from a local supplier, you can ask for something called Fiber Mesh. It is a bunch of tiny strands of plastic that greatly decreases the occurrence of cracking. It works much better than the wire mesh that is placed in this video.
But if you aren't concerned about strength, finish or freeze/thaw, then this may be an option.
For sub-base for concrete slabs, you aren't necessarily looking for "hard". You want something consistent. If you could get a slab to float, water would be the perfect base. Evenly compacted sand is really good......yes, you can compact sand. But it has to be fairly wet while you are compacting it.......about 7% moisture. Hard and compact are NOT the same thing when you are talking about soils and aggregates.
your reply made reading this thread worthwhile - obvious you know what you are talking about. Thanks for taking the time
Nice.
@@doublesharp5795
Thank you. I know a bit about concrete. I have been in the business of testing and designing concrete for almost 30 years. I am also a senior bridge inspector.
However, the MASTER of concrete knowledge is Kim Basham from Wyoming. He's the guru...
Nice, doing research for my own little diy project. You made this look easy.
Omg. Fellow Ohio man. Ohio people are the coolest most constructive and determined! Me included!
Loved this dry pour tutorial! You work so hard and it all looks amazing. I appreciate your guidance as I am a grasshopper learning.
Thank you so much!!
Rather than patting it down just use your leveling board. By going over it a couple times it will bring the powder to the top. And don't wet until you are finished leveling. Otherwise you will end up with joints and uneven concrete
So did you know you could put two or three bags in that wheel barrel and it would make it easier? I’ve used one they really really work.
How about staging all the bags in the form or next to each section before starting the video. Why have 15 minutes of talking while watching him walk back and forth with bags of concrete?
@@exnjute you got that right. That was my thought from the start of the video. Dude just rambles on and on the entire video.
Bob Ross never rushed either.
Try not to breathe in that dust, or put on a buff or something. You don’t want that in your lungs. Lungs are important.
@@nathanscott7910 so skip the video and go critique the next one
This the playbook I needed for my project ….👊👊👍👍. Stay tuned.
I was definitely entertained by you. It looks great and I so enjoyed seeing you love doing it.
In Australia we are becoming aware of the potential of contracting Silicosis of the lungs from unsafe handling of dry concrete. Some building sites are now mandating the use of masks even when sweeping dry concrete. Always best to use a mask even outside. Now I'm definitely going to try a Dry Pour for my next slab, while donning a mask 😷😀. thanks for the Vid.
Thats why masons die early
Australia is soft.
@@carladams9345 Like you would have any idea.
@@SuperVictoralex I've seen your words. You are soft, that makes Australia soft.
@@carladams9345 And from what I'm told you still live with your Mumma. You wouldn't last two minutes in Aussie little man.
Well, I think if you made any mistakes doing this the internet would've let you know by now, lol. Can't wait to see it when it's finished!
So true. I wasn't expecting so much + interest but I''l take it!
I've watched about 20 concrete videos in the last week and not one person is wearing a respirator in any of them
i was interested in dry concrete, so happy i got to your first. I laugh so much with your comments about hitting yourself in the head with the tools you use like walking on the rack. you keep us intertaine and we forget that we are just watching a boring slab being made with a guy just walking one bag at a time. love your video and learned what i was looking for.
Use a sawing motion with your screed board and you will not need a float to get the rocks down.
great job, needing to do that for a patio project. thanks for taking the time to do video.
Excellent video. Informative and entertaining. Thanks!
Why didn't you stack several bags on the wheel barrow and take them all to edge of the slab form you were setting up?
chief agaagin when you are pulling the screet borad do a swa moooooontion from side to side it wil work mush better
Awesome video brother! And great idea for using wireless mic!! I myself have been wanting to make DIY projects that I do as well…this is the awesome beauty in social global media because it’s constantly tying us all together!! I’m from El Paso/Anthony New Mexico myself, born and raised in California!!
Great job! Happy you love what you are doing!!