DIY Dry Pour Concrete Slab - Part 2 - Pouring the Dry Pour Concrete Slab for 8'x12' Shed
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2023
- Part 1 of this Project - • DIY Dry Pour Concrete ...
Today is the day. I am finally getting the Dry Pour Concrete Slab poured. It was a really fun project and I defiantly needed a second set of hands to get this one done. Make sure you watch to the end to hear my suggestions for the best possible outcome!
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4120 Douglas Blvd STE 306-507
Granite Bay, CA 95746 - Розваги
Well, I'm a woman who comes up with all kinds of ideas for my yard, 18 years ago i had an idea to make me a patio in my front yard, but i live out to far for a concrete truck, so i came up with the idea of getting my brother to do the work with me, i went to the dry cleaners & they gave me over 100 wire clothes hangers, for free, i used those as my rebar, i bought 25 bags & a hose, a little work & yes my patio is 10 × 10, its been 18 years & still looks great, has not cracked nor broken corners, i say gooooo for what you know will work, Hallelujah
That's awesome
I was going to do a dry pour for a 7 X 11 pad for a shed. It was going to take 65 bags of concrete (60 lb. bags), rebar, gravel, etc. By the time I tallied up the cost at Lowe’s it came to about $675 (but that included a $105 delivery charge). I’m 64 and decided that I just didn’t want to do it. Hired a pump concrete mixing truck that came out to the house and the total cost to me (they did the screeding) was $1175. For me, all that work wasn’t worth $500 savings, plus I got the real stuff, as dry pour isn’t near as strong, but probably would have been fine for a shed base. Anyway, consider the costs and time involved. At my age, my time is more important to me than money, but to each his own.
They screeded it for you too?! Steal
Yes sir. It’s a lot of work no matter what
$1200 is good price. Its not $500 you saved. You saved your time and agony, which is priceless
And his back lol @@OctPSfever
I've been in construction for 20yrs and I've poured and finished more concrete than I want to remember . This is only the 2nd time I've seen a dry pour . Good job .
Thanks
I need a walkway poured in front of my house about half the size of the pad you made in this video. I was quoted $2,300 for it. I'm so glad I saw this video. I'll be doing it myself using this technique. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
2300? Ouch!. That's a horrible price.
Just for future reference. They now, when used. Rebar is now coated fiberglass rebar.why? Because over a period of time. The reaction of the salt/ alkaline in concrete will cause the steel rebar to rust. Then the metal expands and starts cracking the concrete. Even fiberglass chips/ glass is mixed in the concrete for stopping cracking. Just do plenty of research ahead of time. And put it in a question form when you do. It's all there. Just look it up.
That's an insane price for half the slab in this video. It should be about $10/sq ft.
I am in California I was quoted $7-8k for double this for my driveway, I will be doing this with help from friends.
@@chemicallyfreenolye5462 Please dont. For a small slab used for a shed its fine but never attempt a dry pour on a driveway. It will never look like its supposed to and youll end up having to break it and redo it which will cost twice as much. I am not even a concrete guy just trying to save you the headache.
Yes! Ur prep was awesome & correct + not allowing ur rebar to touch ur forms, 2 inches way is best. Exposed rebar/wire will oxidize causing rust eventually allowing slab to crack.
Yes - define solid edges from framing. Misting is til slab turns a darker color.
Showers are NOT too heavy, WITH 2 HOURS between showers. It’s 2 showers per 1inch of concrete thickness.
Equals - 2 mists an hr apart, 8 showers(NOT SOAKING)total for a 4 inch slab.
DO NOT OVER SHOWER WHEN executing showers or you can get raised blisters on the top of ur slab that will crack and crumble.
Using the sifted power in tiny pocket areas is fine - I did the same, BUT you do not want to do lg areas or remove lg amounts of surfaced rock during screeding - other than a rock here and there filling in w/just sifted powder. Concrete needs the rock as a bonding agent.
Forms can be removed when they naturally show they are pulled slightly from the slab.
Be sure the slab is cured 28-30 days before rolling on a clear or colored sealer, 3 coats 4 hrs apart. Sweep thoroughly b4 applying the sealer to remove any loose granules. A sealer will protect from winter weather water in any tiny crevices that could freeze causing cracking.
It’s also valuable to note that the framed in “ground area” is level to desired thickness of the forms. You don’t want some ground areas 2-3 inches deep & others 4 inches or u’ll over water shallower areas causing raised blistering during the watering process.
Also if you must screed alone, you can actually knee inside ur framed concrete area on dry concrete to screed from the middle. 👍
Good stuff. Thank you
Was wondering what effect of using a tamper would do?
Concrete does not need gravel as a binding agent. They literally make concrete bags without stones in it. Same 4000 psi rating.
Use the cheapest bags as the bulk of the dry pour, then buy bags with no stone for the top layer. 1/4" or 1/2" or so. Stone free concrete cost more tho.
Love the Hammer Drill you where using. 😂😂. Great video.
Totally didn’t want to go get a hammer for those flimsy boards and was too lazy to kick.. lol.
Must admit I'd not heard of dry pour slabs before so this was very interesting, thanks.
Very nice! Instead of suspending the rebar I would have poured half before placing the rebar and it would be in the middle
Yeah. Thought of that also.
Thanks to Cajun Country Livin' for actually doing proving this method works.
Thanks Chris, thanks for sharing your experience. I think of all the videos I watched, you took the time to slow down and really show how to do it and why and I loved the tips as well. I feel more confident to do mine as well. Great job.
Thanks for watching
I've read that this technique does not produce as strong a slab is the traditional method of wet mixing???
@@garyhakala5168 If you don't do it right, then yes it will turn out messed up. But I've seen so many people do it the right and no problem at all with it it seems. If you think about it, if you leave concrete outside and it gets wet enough, it will be as hard as a brick. Same theory and less work to straight wet pour it seems. I know I'm going to do mine this spring/summer.
Looks great~~! Thank you for the video. Well done instructions!!
All these people doing dry pours are going to regret it. It's literally half the strength of properly mixing it. The lazy way never pays off.
Not true
It's not true, I did my walkway 2 1/2 years ago, it's still good and stable. I saved almost half of the price if I hire contractors. Love the idea.
While true that it’s not as strong it really depends on your application as to whether it really matters..
Architectural designer here, background in concrete technology, thousands of yards poured, proponent of dry pour methods:
Respectfully, helpfully, major error at 19.08 (you’re pointing at it). Long concrete void at bottom of slab. Significant structural issue. Always tap forms same as if wet pour to vibrate mix to full depth at edges. Do this as when placing the dry mix against the forms so it can be seen effective, and once again just before final screeding so that any final settling is adjusted for in screeding, etc. Cheers.
Great video. Thanks for the step by step instructions.
Great video! I've watched multiple dry pour videos and found your to be very helpful. Your pad is very comparable to what I plan on doing. Thank you, sir!
Buy bags of concrete that has no gravel in it for the top layer. Easier to screed
Looks good. You prepped it smooth before any water. Good job
Great video! I need to pour some footings for some landscape block walls and with limited man power this technique seems to work very well!
Thanks for sharing all this valuable info 👍
Great job!
Totally off-topic: your property looks awesome, man. Love the work you did to your backyard. Other than that, thanks for the video, very informative.
Love this video it’s encouraging for me to do it thank you
Loved this!! This was exactly what I needed
Hand pats are also my go to for ensuring a solid monolith.
Awesome🥰thank u for sharing 😊
Good job!
that's incredible
Great job
Looks good. Thanks for the information.
Thanks for watching
I saw where another gentleman after skreeting it went back with a 3” PVC pipe and rolled it which helps even better to push any of the pebbles down under the powder! I used that method and was TOTALLY PLEASED!
Awesome. That’s a great idea
Just buy gravel free concrete for the top layer. Only one other guy on UA-cam does this. Don't know why more people don't do this! You can even buy concrete with no stones in it that is stronger yet! Like 6000 or 8000 psi. Cost more tho.
Great job my brother you saved me some money! Thanks!
Yes sir!!
Lots of great tips and good explanation of the process, thank you for doing such a good video.
Awesome video! I’ve been watching tons of videos looking to show the process. I really like how you explained each thing along the way with what you see at each step! And love the tips you learned at the end! This has been super helpful! My only extra challenge is I need to run drainage directly under, but I think I can get by with a PVC and not worry about drains through the pad.
Awesome. Thanks for watching
Looks good.
looks good
Good job, looks great. When you finished the paint roller and started talking about misting, I thought, "oh, don't forget the edging tool-- crap, he forgot to edge it." -- that's definitely important if you want the rounded edges but also just to ensure a clean break with the wood forms. There's also a UA-camr who has removed the forms when the concrete was set up but not fully cured and then smoothed/rounded the edges with a brick. In any case, thanks for the video--
Yep, for sure. If I wasn’t covering the edges I would of for sure ran the edger over it. Thanks for watching.
This is great, we did a 10 x 10 dry pour and plan on a few more. One step I didn’t see you do is use some type of power tool to vibrate the out boards to find air pockets on the edges. It also makes sure you get powder on edge walls for a smooth surface.
I thought about that but ultimately decided not to do it. Definitely a step I should of done
What do you mean?
On ours, before watering my wife used a small electric sander around the outer 2x4’s to vibrate the boarder. In a few places the concrete powder sank or opened up. We filled it back in. Sometimes this is done on wet pour too, it’s just an extra step to check for sink holes on the edges.
I did 48” of sidewalk on an uphill slope. The first 8 feet I didn’t oil the boards and had pockets and a hard time getting it to release. A mason told me to paint the boards with old engine oil. Before concrete. After that I had no problems.
@@brudug713use cooking spray Pam. Works great.
Turned out nice! Great job! I have done a few small pours myself
Thanks. Got 12 more bags so got to find something else that needs a dry pour. Lol
Good job and lots of patience ... #NinerEmpire 49ers 4Life👍👍
Great job with the video and technique. I think the biggest point I see with wet pour vs. dry. If you have help around sure thing doing a wet pour. I am a one man crew. I can see doing the dry pour makes sense for me. I can stage everything. The big one is no rain and getting it in the frame smoothed etc. Then it’s on your time clock if necessary.
Thank you for the vid
2 soakings per inch, not one lol. 😂
Good job though, can't wait to see shed on it.
It turned out amazing! You did a great job!
Where can I buy that drill/ Hammer combo 😂
JK. Great job. Cheapest method for walkways and garden shed pads. I used dry pour under a deck after setting post in footers with wet pour and additive that increased hardness (instructions stated for machine grout footers)
It worked and I enclosed underside of deck for garden equipment storage
I like how you can tell who shops at Lowe's or Home Depot based on the hose attachment, lol. Thanks for the video.
😂
great hat!!!!!!! RCJ!!
RockChalk
Like your hammer drill.
Doing a dry pour this weekend. Never seen someone put down stone in the dozens of videos I watched. Saw ur supposed to saturate the dirt your dry pouring on prior to putting the concrete down. The bottom layers of concrete absorb out of the ground and saturates more
lol ur off.. just rent a mixer and poor it wet if u want it to be in 1 piece in a year.. all that prep work for shit results.
If you do do a dry pour, make it thicker than you think. Also, put a sprinkler on it for as long as possible. Like a month.
If you want an easy job, buy stone free concrete for the top layer. Screeding will be fun then
Saw a video of a guy attaching a vibrating sander to his screed board. It seemed to really help push the aggregate down from the surface.
There are some videos where they are testing the strength of dry pour vs wet pour. I would encourage everyone to watch them first.
I wouldn’t recommend this method for a house pad or driveway but for a shed? Does it really matter that much?
Niceee. I was expecting you to water in a little bit as you went. I guess that’s an option too? Also, I have not seen every comment so sorry if someone already said this, but you can just buy sand topping mix for the final touch which is concrete without the aggregate, saves you from sifting.
Absolutely! Another person who knows about this!
The very first vid I seen about dry pour, they were messing around with stones while screeding. I instantly knew of a better way!
Awesome hammer
Thanks. Was waiting for someone to see it.
@chrisbuildsitall if it was a dewalt or something, sure dewalt makes a great hammer. But don't use a good Milwaukee for a hammer!! 😂
Thanks I was going to do 60 bags for a 12 x 12 😊
What did you end up doing?
I did my first dry pour today. I wish I would’ve seen your video beforehand, I’m about to go give it one last shower before calling it a night. This is the best how-to video on dry pour concrete.
Thank you. Hope it turns out well!
you do save time in moving bags into mixer, then wet concrete from mixer into wheelbarrow, then dump it in the form. But like you said, biggest thing its easier when you're working by yourself. This is why I'm looking at doing a dry pour. But its a 12' x 16' area... and its inside of a metal building. So still trying to figure out how I can screed/level it with the walls in the way.
Cut a 2 x 4 to the correct length and then attach a palm sander to it. The vibration from the palm sander will smooth everything out without having to move back-and-forth. I know. And make sure your very first misting of water is a very heavy watering or that top crust will peel right off.
@@chrisbuildsitall That is GENIUS! Thank You for this Idea, had not thought of that. I think I have a corded palm sander somewhere. If not, might have to go to harbor freight. And yeah, I've watched all their videos (I think) about watering. I think its the most important part that some of the people _(concrete guys)_ trying to "debunk" it doesn't do right, along with not screeding it correctly. Thanks Again for the Reply!
And you don't need a mixer. And then you don't have to clean it.
A couple of points from my dry pour side walk.
1. Don’t rush. Take your time. Cover and make multi day
2. Oil your forms - I use old synthetic motor oil.
3. Plastic base and add loads of water on bottom before first bag
4. Bullnose all edges next to forms
5. Use Sand Topping Mix instead of sifting. Much better results.
Excellent work and don’t listen to the naysayers. I overbuilt my sidewalk and it came perfect. Just me solo with 4 pallets of concrete. No way to do that without dry pour process.
Thanks for the tips!
It can absolutely be done the normal (right) way.
Great video looks amazing. I did a 8 by 16 in back of my garage framed out. Was thinking of getting started today Saturday. But we got rain coming next week. Do you recommend i wait until the rain passes by or should i be good. Cement will be going in back of garage for a shed. Today Saturday and rain will come Sunday- Wednesday i Believe
As long as the pads been down a couple days I’d say your ok
As informative as the Cajun kids and I love the extra tip of sifting some of the concrete. There's another guy who uses mortar for a final finish, so this makes perfect sense. Can you share what it was you used to sift it? Thanks for a great explanation! Outstanding job!
Used gold panning classifiers. Got them at Bass Pro Shops
@@chrisbuildsitall Thank you! I heard you say that, but I couldn't see it well. I was trying to figure out how I could improvise but appreciate knowing where I can at least look this up. 👍🏻
Finally! Someone else talking about using stone free concrete for the top layer! Makes sense eh?
Thank you
It is important to keep in mind that dry-pour concrete may not offer the same level of strength and durability as wet-mix concrete. Dry-pour concrete can also be more prone to cracking and shrinkage, which can lead to structural issues and the need for costly repairs over time.
True.
Everybody I know here in Europe pours WET concrete.
Dry pore is only good for post in the ground and stiffening up sugar sand underneath a cement pad
I believe this process will work for like sheds and stuff like that. Great idea...
I wouldn't use it on driveways or or bigger slabs..
@@jameswardellas it should be. Dry pour is some new trend here in the states and it's laughable.
Great job! Question… how many bags did you use and what size is that?
8’x12’ took 48 80lb bags.
Cheers for a great video.
Boos for being a Jayhawk fan.
Disclaimer: I'm a BYU fan :/
Thanks. KU is Love or Hate.
Yep gotta use a concrete edging trowel dude!
Didn’t use it since I was going to be covering the edges all up with framing.
Hell, I'm 67 years old. And handicap and I still miss concrete
Looks good! Would you use the dry pour method for a larger shed/garage (16x20)
Shed yes, garage probably not. If you have a month to wait for it to cure then possibly
I wouldn't be parking any cars on it, id just like to have a larger space to store my things. But you'd still recommend a normal concrete pour?
Great job. Does this type of slab require expansion joints?
Not in my area. Possible if your in a climate that freezes but for that size I think your still ok
Gotta run to the store over and over. Yeah, i know that routine.
Always!
good job thanks, would this work for a drive way if I use rebar?
I would not do a driveway. Too much weight and it would probably crack
Rock Chalk!
Pump up sprayer works great for the misting stage?
🔥🔥🔥
I like calling my concrete supplier and simply run down shoots to project. Easy level. Got time when finished to grab a rod , go fishing, cook, beer , tv, service wife, go to bed. Happy happy happy 😂. Friends helping are overrated unless framing or roof!😁🤣😂😂
Thanks
I did a day pour a week or show ago and when it’s rained a few times since it seems to soak into the concrete and turns dark again. Seems like I need to add a concrete sealer
Can you go and use an edger tool or one of those seam tools at some point during one of the soaks?
You can use it before you start watering and it will come out real good. That would be best option.
Based on ur experience and let me say I think it came out great, Do you think that it would be possible/practical to work the finish after the first misting? In the hope of getting a really nice finish. Thank you and great job!
You could but from what I experienced it’s so soft that it would be very tricky. You cannot put very much pressure on it.
Why put the fence back under? Don’t you need to put siding on the back of the shed? Seems like access to the back would be easier if you put the fence up when the shed is done?
Did the back of the shed first.
Thanks chris, how do you know that using more,water would be better? Did you do another test pour or just look up better,advise? Ill be doing same,soon . and fyi for a true ASTM standard test concrete is cured underwater for 28 days ( after initial set up). So more,wster,should help , but does it help with dry pour?
Thanks for videos ,cheers,warren
Once those first couple most coats are done. It’s pretty hard to go wrong. The concrete will absorb whatever it can and the rest will go through it.
@@chrisbuildsitall thanks
I wonder would wetting the ground a day before dry pouring the cement help put a little moisture to the bottom help
Seems like it would work
Have you thought about putting a fabric on top when you do the soaking?
No, not sure what it would do. May stick to the concrete and cause more issues?? Not sure
Nice video - I need to do a 8x12 slab for my hot tub - do you think it will hold the weight of it if I do dry pour? also how long would you wait for it to cure before putting the hot tub on it? Thank you.
I think it would hold. Wait at least 1 month. I would water the slab daily for 2 weeks after you do the initial watering program.
Yeah, with dry pour, make it thicker than you think to be extra safe, and add more rebar.
And yes, keep a sprinkler on it for a month if you can. Long as possible.
Cool vid; thanks for sharing. Don't think this process is for my next shed slab (12x16). All that dust of the dry concrete cannot be good for anything (lungs, skin, house, you name it). And it looks like as much work as just mixing two bags in a mixer and pouring it down, old school. Especially if you have an extra set of hands.
I could see this for small slabs - under 4x4 foot - when I just don't want to clean the mixer. But anything larger? Not so much.
FWIW, you can rent mixers from HD by the day, or just buy one from Harbor Freight for about three days' rental.
Thanks again for sharing. It's probably great for some. I see the value for people who are single-handing the process.
Totally agree!!
Probably too late, but you might consider oiling your forms so the concrete doesn't adhere to it. Good video and a good looking slab.
Looks like he would have spent more time oiling the boards than it took to remove them.
@@tbirdracefan It's not so much about the time as it is about the material that often pulls away with the forms
Oiling my forms. Works perfect! Forms pretty much just fall off with a smoth finish.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Honestly I’m over the dry pour mumbo jumbo. It’s fun for smaller projects but takes wayyyyy more time.
I’m with ya.
Nice video , I do have a question though , so pouring the water , I think it will dry the top so when you pours more water , I don’t think it will log inside anymore , isn’t ? It won’t go down
It will still absorb into the concrete. Even after the concrete is full set, water will still absorb and evaporate. But that why you do many heavy soakings after the first initial light misting.
How’s it holding up? Considering doing a shed this spring in Ohio just like this
Been a few months now. Still awesome. No cracks or any issues.
Lowes carries small concrete blocks that are aboit 2" x 2" with two 3" or so soft twist wires sticking out of the top. These blocks fit under the rebar.
Yes they do. They are also pretty expensive which is why I didn’t get them.
If I do an 8’x8’ for a shed how many 80lb bags would I need do you think? Thanks
36 80lb bags I would get 38 bags to be safe. Don't make double trips for a couple bags.
What he said 👆
❤❤it😊😊
There is no possible way that a wet pour would save more time.. impossible great video
Wet pour would be done and dusted in 2 hours max he spent 6 hours just misting and soaking you do the maths and wet pour is more durable and has more strength
Hi great video ,
With this, Will this be strong enough for a car port,
Thanks
I would not do it for a car port. I would rent a mixer from the hardware store and pour a traditional slab.
@@chrisbuildsitall thought so, thanks for the reply
Isn’t that “concrete powder” you sift to fill the holes merely Portland?
I think that’s what Portland is. ?
Wow… 5 inches… I thought you had 2x4 going around it… looks wonderful
Gotta count what the rocks covered.. build it up 6 inches
Great job.... especially when you have no help....
Thanks
Hello, I wonder how to comply with the water proportions if you shower the slab like it....
Biggest thing is to get a nice crust on it, then you can really soak it.
Chris how many bags of concrete did you use for this 8x12?
49 80lb bags
Hello,
I am i the process to do the same but a litle bigger project. My question is if the DRY POUR CONCRETE SLAB has the same streght ? Thanks
No it doesn’t. If the slab is going to have high traffic on it I would do a wet pour
Was that a Milwaukee hammer you used to remove the front form at 18:47 ??? 😄 Great video, thanks!
I hoping it's a Brauer (Harbor Freight brand)
@@digitaldan8223 That or a Craftsman.
It’s one of my craftsman. Board we’re literally falling out. We’ve all done it. 😂
I wanna do this for kids to play basketball on ?? Thoughts
Just hoping that it all got wet lol
Let’s just flip a coin with the most important aspect of the build.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
It’s all good. But I get the skepticism
Nice cordless hammer.
Great in a pinch.