Glad you posted this. It seems there might be consolidation issues or risks with this as you see it cavitates (creates voids) and cracks under the surface. This may be fixed with substrate reinforcement (rebar) and vibration of form (to minimize void development) prior to the watering step. Time will tell when you test it for for strength and durability.
I finally broke apart one I did many years ago for a generator pad. Just roughly 4' x 2'. I didn't even use any rebar as it was meant to be temporary. It actually stood up well all these years and never even so much as cracked. Now when breaking it apart the chunks of concrete look just like wet pour, I do not see a difference.
I should have mixed it up a bit and tamped it down. I was mostly trying to show how the water moves through the dry mix but you are correct. This method will need to be mixed up or tamped down before adding water.
This is the MSDS report for this product- Wear protective gloves. Wear eye and/or face protection. Avoid breathing dust. Wash hands thoroughly after handling. May cause eye and skin burns. See Section 4 for additional details. May present risk of engulfment. See Section 7 for additional details. Overexposure to wet concrete can cause severe, potentially irreversible tissue (skin, eye, respiratory tract) damage in the form of chemical burns, including third degree burns. The same severe injury can occur if wet or moist skin is exposed to dry Ready Mixed Concrete dust. Clothing wet with moisture from concrete can transmit the Continued... caustic effects to the skin, causing chemical burns. Ready Mixed Concrete may cause skin burns with little warning; discomfort or pain cannot be relied upon to alert a person to a serious injury. Pain or the severity of the burn may not be felt or known until hours after the exposure. Medical conditions which may be aggravated by exposure: Contact with wet concrete may aggravate existing skin conditions. Sensitivity to hexavalent chromium can be aggravated by exposure.
@@tomahawkmissile241 I did my fair share of concrete work when I was younger. I seem to remember that the white dusty look would not go away even after a shower, but I soon learned that lime juice took care of that. It didn't really bother my skin back then but I wasn't exactly rolling around in the stuff. These days I can't work with cement at all in dust form, does all kinda bad things to my skin. Once it's mixed and wet I can work with it (no more dust), but I still can't let even the wet cement touch my skin. I'd say if it has warnings like these you'd best put on your darth vader costume when working with it.
@defenestrated23 in these trying times, we all need to save a few coins, but still accomplish projects that make us feel good; plus, this is just so much easier on the body, so even the most unskilled person feels they can tackle it & succeed!
Concrete doesn't actually 'dry' in the sense that some people think. Powdered Portland Cement creates bonds between sand/stone aggregate when hydration is introduced. This bonding reaction continues for years in many cases, although most of the mix design strength occurs within 21days. The idea of using a mixer would be to insure that all sand and stone particles are evenly and sufficiently coated with Portland/water paste prior to placement. There's another process called 'soil cementing', where dry Portland Cement or lime is knifed directly into wet soil to improve it's load bearing capacity.
@@MadSceintist Yes I have. Not recently. My memory of what I have seen is massive amounts of cement mix being poured into huge forms. You could throw a couple school busses into each of those forms. They actually had piping running through the forms through which they can pump water to help keep the initial curing process cool. Those pipes were later pumped full of cement mix also. So yeah, I believe it when they say a 660 foot thick poured cement foundation will take a long time to cure. Not sure why you asked your question though!
As a mason and concrete person, the reason the sides showed it hardening so fast is when concrete starts to harden it shrinks just enough to allow the water being sprayed to flow just a bit to reach the outer edges. It will take alot longer to reach the inner sections but eventually the slab will be solid
Worth noting relative to your friends 14,000 lb truck. That “huge” load undoubtedly has a contact area of at least one square foot, or more than 140 square inches. That’s only a load of about 100 psi, or far less than the 3,000 psi design strength of the concrete, so really not much of a test. The other thing is that concrete doesn’t generally fail catastrophically at first, and especially not if it’s green. What is more likely to happen is that microscopic stress cracks begin which propagate over time resulting in noticeable and premature failure later in life.
This like every other one of my comments will be at the bottom of the algorithm. Mixed cement has a strength advantage because the activation of components being bound by the heat that concrete inherently causes in a molecular level. The water isn't just the activator, its a lubricant to mix it easily. Ask yourself why they don't pour dry concrete on a professional job of any kind
Would be interesting to see a side by side, one with the dry pour method and then mixing a small batch in the traditional method in a glass bowl. The results would be seen by testing hardness in a few days.
@@jakefriesenjake American Concrete Institute recommends a minimum cure period equal to concrete attaining 70% of specified compressive strength, for most concrete above 40 F, that's seven days. Curing Temps above 50 F increase early strength but decrease the 28 day strength with the difference being greater with increasing temp. There is a big difference between air curing and moist curing. For a concrete that air cures the entire time, you get 4100 psi, for 7 days moist cure 5400 psi, for 28 days moist cure, 6200 psi, for 365 day moist cure you get 8000 psi ... The concrete in the bowl starts air curing as soon as he stops misting it. You can actually see the shrink where it's pulling away from the bowl. That means the concrete needs water content to remain in constant hydration. Microscopically, the batch accommodates plastic shrinkage by propagating microcracks. Low strength concrete shrinks while high strength concrete swells. The process is complex and it's hard to prevent cracking of slabs. The best methods are control joints, moist curing, and pond curing. Prevent any load on the concrete for 24 hours and prevent heavy loads for 10 days. You might not see cracking, but loading produces internal microcracks which compromise spec strength and longevity.
@@nevisstkitts8264 exactly. Keep it wet, covered and the weight off as long as possible. Concrete will crack, but you can make the crack look better by cutting it. But if you cut it, you should install rebar to bridge the cut so both pieces will sink in unison. If you don't want to cut it, add fiberglass fibers or rebar and make it twice as thick as you originally had thought to pour it. Or just risk it and redo if needed. I will be doing 4 tests, comparing wet mix, dry pour, and different levels of water misting and showering for the dry pour method. All tests will be then kept wet for many weeks. Then I will test
Change the amount of agitation (mixing) and you do change concrete strength. You find this by taking matched samples of concrete mix, adding equal water, agitating each sample a different amount, then doing a hydraulic press to failure PSI test. A small amount of agitation goes a long way. common 3000 PSI concrete in 7 yard batch generally has 100 turns of the big drum on a cement mixer truck. You can change the pressure to cause failure by changing the agitation. A good substrate under a slab can help it survive the truck test. Your truck is at 30 PSI to 90 PSI air in the tires. (depending on which truck) Compare that to the generally desired 3000 PSI concrete strength rating... The truck test is stupidly easy to pass. It's more a test of the compressability ot the dirt under than it is a test of the concrete.
Thanks for posting, but this actually demonstrates why this should not be done. You can see the weak spots and the areas where it wasn't saturated leaving spaces. This will not last in countries like Canada.
Pro tip; wash your hands and any other skin that comes in contact with the concrete with vinegar. The acid in the vinegar will neutralize the alkali in the portland and prevent chemical burns.
Paper bags of cement in storage for long time even without contact with the floor just by absorbing moisture from the air get hard as rock in due time, so thin set does that fairly quickly by the way, this is due to the fact that the amount of water necessary for the concrete to set is way less than what is normally used, we pour more water for the sake of workability.
When I worked for a development company, we would build retaining walls by filling croaker bags with cement mix and stacking them up dry. We would get semi-trailer loads of bagged sand mix on bigger jobs and stack them dry. Those would also harden by themselves. I've used the same method in washouts, and those bags get hard as concrete, oddly enough!
Spent a lot of time in MN. The freeze/thaw cycles were severe, so we mixed concrete with 6% air entrainment. We have to test our dry pour samples with freeze/dry cycles, after curing, to check of surface spalling resistance. We need to know if sealing against that is advisable.
The true strength of concrete supporting a load is all about the tightness of the ground under the concrete if the ground it setting on is not packed, dry or wet method will break
LOL! No, it won't break. Plenty of youtube vids have shown this. Look people, don't look for problems. It works. Ok? Just relax and use it, and save some money.
I like your approach I wish I had the money to send some samples to a testing lab but that simple glass bowl answers a lot of questions about hydrating bag concrete
You don’t need to send it to a testing lab. Any building that exists is done with “wet” concrete for a reason. Ive done 20 years of high rise construction in NYC. Every building has to adhere to “core sampling” and stress testing to ensure the slabs are cured properly to withstand load. IF dry pour was actually better then we wouldn’t need pump trucks/hoses/etc. it’s been proven for decades that dry pour isn’t better it’s just lazy DIY fad nonsense. You want to make a little pad to put some plants on in your yard? Go for it but don’t do anything that is actually structural.
If your actual concrete project is not in a glass bowl, you have to guess when there is enough water to penetrate the entire depth. Seems like more work than just mixing the concrete normally.
Regardless of where it is, adding more (and More, and MORE) water only helps concrete to cure once the curing begins. Some of the dry pours on UA-cam have been 1.5 inches deep, so it's pretty easy to get enough water.
The draw to dry pour isn't that is more or less work..it's that you have time get it smooth and can fix mistakes before the water is added. Another draw is that you don't need any mixer or wheelbarrow to do the job.
@@dchall8 lol, that 1.5" slab probably cracked off already. The quikrete bags themselves calls for a minimum 4" thickness. In fact all 4,000 psi concrete calls from a minimum of 4" thick. Most people could break 1.5" of concrete with their bare hands
@@Bennysol If you want to practice breaking 1.5-inch concrete with your hands, visit the garden section of HD or Lowe's and break a few of their thin pavers. Well, those were probably wet poured, so not comparable. The 4000 psi number seems like the standard; however, since humans wearing shoes produce 15 psi, if all you are doing is walking on the surface, even 400 psi should be fine. I'm not going to build a rocket launch pad. I need something to keep the dirt off my shoes.
@@dchall8 mother nature (earth movement) trumps your little manicured feet. Your belong as a filler character in that 90's movie, Idiocracy. Which predicted what is now happening in the world. How long before you start watering your plants with Gatorade? Anothet 3 years maybe?
I am going to do a small 24" wide sidewalk for the mother-in-law this summer - I'm going to research a little bit more - as I live in MN with frost / freezing ground I will be using expanson peices between the sections - but I like this idea. - thanks for the trial.
I just dry poured two small concrtete pads for a gate. I'd be very interested if the internal dry concrete got wet and cured or stayed as a dry powder..
In our shed I drypoured 600 sq ft about 10 x 10 feet at a time an average of about 2 1/2 " thick over native soil so compact I probably could have gotten away with 1 ". One issue unique to this job was there was already exterior walls on a foundation so I had to get clever setting up my screed lines. Another issue I found is the finish of drypour is not nearly as smooth and consistent as wet pour. Also it has very thin cracks at all the seams because the different pours did not bond like seperate wet pours where you can add adhesive. I put water barrier under the slab although we live in a pretty dry climate.
I wasn't so worried about you. I don't think it will kill you or seize up something important or anything. No, I started unravelling when you were spraying the electronics! I was think, "No! That shit's expensive!".
he's used more water than an entire bag would need and dry pour takes way longer. I guess it works but it takes way less time to just mix it. I dont know, just seems easier to just mix it it.
Dry pour works fine for DIYers, but professional concrete can require precise mixes, rebar and vibration to release the trapped air. As well as a professional finish. Also that powder will burn you if you're not careful. It's like a bad sunburn.
Professionals need to charge more, so yeah, they need to do "something" to get that extra money. Dry pour doesn't require rebar, precise mixes or vibration to release trapped air. That's a lot of hogwash.
@@kennethm.380 You're the guy who puts in driveways and sidewalks that get 2 inch wide cracks all the way through and the broken slabs sink and heave another 2 inches
If I were going for the full 4000 psi, I would definitely wet mix it. However, for those of us in the southern US where it does not freeze, I think it should be fine for sidewalks where the load is never more than 300 lbs. My first 2 feet are sugar sand, do I will be getting some compacted gravel down first even doing a dry pour. I am doing a small pad outside my shop building, I am going to give this a try.
From what I've understood with researching dry pouring you don't want to underwet, because it starts your timer on finishing the project. The base layer will be wet and thus start curing the moment you pop a bag on it. If you have inconsistent curing you absolutely will have cracks and weaknesses in your concrete.
Similarly and I haven't seen enough evidence with regards to this part, but from what I was taught with doing mortar work, you've gotta let concrete "flash" which is when you're mixing you let it sit and absorb water on the microscopic level prior to pouring traditional concrete. Similar to letting pancake or waffle batter rest before you actually start cooking. Secondly but related, from what I've been taught with regards to concrete you've gotta keep your concrete "wet" for far longer than a person might expect. And I don't feel like any dry pour video has done justice to this aspect. If you pour a concrete driveway you're supposed to water it usually for 2 weeks (depending on climate) to slow down the visible drying which increases the invisible "curing". Because Portland cement cures by a type of crystalization, and the longer it's "wet" the stronger that crystalization becomes.
@@lightjedi6 I think you just condensed a semester of college concrete class into a few paragraphs. However, who's to say that the flash does not occur in the dry pour? In any case, a LOT more testing needs to be done to determine what are good applications for dry pour. What if you use plastic inside the form before adding the dry concrete? How does wire mesh or rebar affect strength? How long should you keep the dry pour moist (I'm wondering if 28 days is enough)?
@@dchall8 I would dare say that it does indeed flash when you dry pour, the issue that arises is that if a diy person chooses to dry pour and they are lax on the watering then the flashing can cause voids to form inside the slab (probably very small) from uneven shrinking. Similar issue if you live in an arid environment like I do here in Colorado. I completely agree that more experimenting needs to be done, especially with substrates and internal supports. I do believe that this will make for some awesome innovations in the future of construction. To your comment about how long it should be damp for, that's something that I wish would be mentioned more in videos like this, educating people on the fact that concrete doesn't dry, it cures. (Obviously it does dry but you know what I mean) I'm intending to do some concrete work around my place hopefully this summer, so I might just add to the experimenting. If I get to it I'll definitely try to document what my results are. I will definitely be using concrete blankets to slow the wicking process and I'll probably water it longer, pretty much following the guidelines for when you have a driveway poured (two weeks of twice a day) mostly because my current driveway is old torn up asphalt.
I love that you are testing this because I seriously just questioned the strength of dry pour myself. I'm curious if you could do one that is actually an experiment in something that would be more like it hardening in dirt? or burlap? I feel like the glass bowl would hold the moisture versus the soaking into the soil around it? I had folks tell me that the dry pour won't get the moisture into the depth and therefore it will crack and be more weak?
Doesn't even matter if the moisture penetrates fully during the dry pour moistening. You get a "loose bond" concrete. The cement not properly bonded to the aggregate. Initial dampening and surface hardening creates a layer that is not going to be properly bonded to the layer moistened in the next soaking... and on down. It's sort of like shale and will be flaky. (in every meaning of the word) Eventually, the rest of the concrete does dampen enough to set. But still, it happened in layers and without proper bonding between cement and aggregate. It's a 3 to 5 yeqar solution for a 40 year problem of wanting a foundation. 3 to 5 years might be enough for your needs... Trying the dry pour for a structural foundation is asking for a house to collapse.
It pull moisture from the ground so it gets it from both sides. If you just pour the dry concrete in a hole and did. It add any water at all, it would be rock hard in a week
@@fhuber7507 I don't think anyone would be using it for foundation work infact I have not seen anyone use it for structural work mostly walkways, patios and slabs.
Dry pour works. The cement mixture will continue to wick the moisture where it finds it. It may not be 100% as strong in a matter of days, but it will be 99% as strong in a matter of months. That's not to say you have to wait that long. If it's a fence post, 48 hours later you should be good to hammer away.
You could save all this time drizzling water going through intervals, just by simply mixing the cement with water for just a minute, and then leaving it to solidify, that could save us time also, don't you think? This process has to be done in a transparent pot while the whole procedure is messy for your laptop as well..
Exactly, we can mix about 100 bags of concrete from 6-10 out of a wheel barrel and be done finishing it by noon. These dry pour guys will still be sprinkling water on it at midnight. It's just a lazy way of doing it
I did concrete remediation for 10 years in my younger days. So far no side effects from silica inhalation. But my hands are numb to heat and cold. But that's years of exposure to wet and dry concrete and bonding agents.
This was interesting. I watched my first video on dry pour the other day, which shocked me but I loved seeing the wetting in action through the bowl. Had you been doing it on a stepping stone it may have reached completion sooner as it would not have been as deep. Another experiment I do not have to do! Thank you for sharing!!
Paul it's great to see you still doing well and I hope you're still manifesting your morning manifests,if not I'm sad to hear, but you seem to be doing well without it.
Like the vid explaining and how we were all able to watch the cement dry. Question, how many times did you have to water it..well because we can see it happen on the glass but won't be able to see it when actually being done on the ground. How will I know I didn't miss a spot or area deep down at the base. By the way, I live in tampa😊
Hope you mixed a bowl of wet poured concrete too for comparison and strength testing. I'm curious to see if there is any measurable strength difference.
Thr hole for my pergolas cement to hold up one of the 4 poles was filling up with water so fast so I said what the heck and just poured dry cement into it and it worked no problem : )
I'm sure this was still dry in the middle and being in a bowl it can't draw moisture from the ground to get the remaining moisture it needs for a full cure but I think the experiment still shows people the basic idea of how it works
Mix concrete with water with the right consistency, pour it in your bowl and you're done. Who has the time to mist and shower for hours? The finish on the dry pour looks like crap.
I think the thing that bothers me most about this method is that most demos shown aren't considering the water/concrete ratio as specified by the manufacturer. If you add too much water to concrete it weakens it fundamentally and no longer meets its intended strength requirements. In theory I cant really see any substantial difference between a wet pour and a dry one (to many peoples point we have been dry pouring posts for years), but I would really like to see this again with the 'correct' amount of water as specified by the manufacture to see if it can penetrate properly and setup. For non structural applications such as walkways etc I can't see why this wouldn't work and be excellent, but would it work in scenarios where you are seeking the manufacturers psi rating???
Mixing allows the void spaces between the dry particles to collapse and densify. Mixing in too much water creates void spaces in a finished pour by allowing unabsorbed, incompressible water to function as a temporary scaffold between curing particles. The total volume of a dry pour slab is greater than an over wet slab using the same amount of concrete mix. A dry pour slab would be less dense overall and have more total voids, but an over wetted slab could also change the distribution of cement and aggregates within the matrix. If the mix is so wet that the cement gets floated to the surface and the sand gets washed to the bottom it will be much weaker, but that would take way more water than what most people consider to be over wet. Either way, even weak pours are generally far stronger than they need to be for most applications. I've made walking paths and greenhouse floors with aircrete. It feels great to have something softer and cooler underfoot, and the greenhouse slab has plenty of strength to hold up the stick framed glass walls.
The professional cement whisperers will tell you that when you walk on it you'll be swallowed up whole, never to be seen again. Tread (yuck yuck) carefully.
The issue is that too much water can affect the cure, its not about drying. You should follow Cajun Country Livin instructions, they wait the appropriate time between mists and also limit the quantity, you would end up with a stronger dry pour. It might of survived the truck at 48hours.
Yes you can float it after you wet and the surface from a dry pour. Wet it but don't make a soup. Floating works best for a wet pour. Dry pour is typical for artisans who's final appearance shows the underlying materials where you're using marbles, cut glass, polished stones, and petrified wood.
Portland cement is alkaline and there's no amount of washing or hand lotion that will fix your dry hands in a reasonable amount of time. However, what you can do is neutralize the condition by washing your hands with 5% white vinegar and don't rinse them off with water. You may smell like a walking salad bar but it will bring relief to the dryness. A gallon jug of vinegar is standard issue when I do concrete jobs.
I’ve seen small retaining walls mad of stacked concrete bags. It was about a year or so after they were built and the paper bags were starting to come off. Not classy, but it did the job.
Our L shaped Quikrete bag wall is still standing... for eight years now. From time to time, however a bit fell off, we suspect from mowing bumps. The bags became raggedy after three years.
@@lizlafferty1278 We have a sea wall done with Quikrete bags and rebar driven in when bags were placed to keep it in place. Works wel and certainly is more economical...also looks good once the paper comes off the bags.
I saw a video like that, and they guy was smart and used a power washer to get the bags off. Looked good then. I wouldn't leave the bags on, would look tacky.
Good video. Since most walkways/patios are 3.5” thick, I’d be curious to see you do this in a Pyrex casserole pan. I’m sure the water penetration would be more even and reach the bottom at a lesser thickness of concrete. Btw… nice jeans 😜
Could you try to dry pour something like a structural footer or foundation and one of those cardboard cylinder beam footers? Just to see how it would work...
Many years ago in Australia, they made roads by dry pouring cement and rotary hoeing it into the ground. I saw video about it a few years ago, but can't find it now.
Look up "Soil Cement". It's often used in earthen homes as an earthen floor effect while still being more durable than a standard compacted earthen floor.
@@simplysaida I seen those video, one video I saw the father refence he got the idea from video from Australia, about how roads use to be made. I want to share the link on here, but could not find it again. Thx
entirely dependent on the use case. for something like a pad for a garden shed, chicken coup...light foot traffic...i would say it's irrelevant. nobody is saying dry pouring concrete is better or even remotely equal to traditional mixing.
Each type of mix states the minimum thickness on the bag. To get to 1 inch, you would need a different mix. It would have smaller aggregate and a different ratio of Portland to other ingredients.
It is not hard in 2 minutes more than the water compacted it been in concrete for over 30 years, not beating you up love your method not sure I would try this for something structural but for a homeowner would be a good idea to save money
yea i think for most homeowners and residential purposes its good enough. like a small slab or walkway. no way its going to be strong enough for foundation or park a vehicle
How about color? Experiment with a color additive as grey concrete can be boring for a patio or sidewalk. Any one know of a color mix at a common store?
Ummmm, this is how a lot of concrete planters, statues, and yard art are made. They use steel molds and vibrate them some when filling in the concrete.
I would love to see you make dry pour flowerbed borders next. It is super expensive to hire someone to do that and purchasing a machine to do it yourself is also ridiculous. I bet it could be done without the machine.
Water doesn't escape from dry or curing concrete. The concrete keeps soaking any water around it until it starts bleeding out at the top if it has taken too much water
I've been wondering for a long time if this kind of cement can be used to pour into a cement driveway to fill a section of the drive that was damaged when a tree fell acoss it. Of course the bottom of the cracked section is not smooth like your bowl and it has a little bit of grass and dirt I guess. It's not a very big section - maybe 10 inches long.
Interesting but you dont have anything in your bowl to take the excess like the ground would. And letting it set for the suggested time would be better.
Glad you posted this. It seems there might be consolidation issues or risks with this as you see it cavitates (creates voids) and cracks under the surface. This may be fixed with substrate reinforcement (rebar) and vibration of form (to minimize void development) prior to the watering step. Time will tell when you test it for for strength and durability.
I finally broke apart one I did many years ago for a generator pad. Just roughly 4' x 2'. I didn't even use any rebar as it was meant to be temporary. It actually stood up well all these years and never even so much as cracked. Now when breaking it apart the chunks of concrete look just like wet pour, I do not see a difference.
I should have mixed it up a bit and tamped it down. I was mostly trying to show how the water moves through the dry mix but you are correct. This method will need to be mixed up or tamped down before adding water.
I agree. I have never seen a dry pour fence post that fell apart or not cling the the post for dear life!
This is the MSDS report for this product-
Wear protective gloves. Wear eye and/or face protection. Avoid breathing dust. Wash hands thoroughly after handling. May cause eye and skin burns. See Section 4 for additional details. May present risk of engulfment. See Section 7 for additional details. Overexposure to wet concrete can cause severe, potentially irreversible tissue (skin, eye, respiratory tract) damage in the form of chemical burns, including third degree burns. The same severe injury can occur if wet or moist skin is exposed to dry Ready Mixed Concrete dust. Clothing wet with moisture from concrete can transmit the
Continued...
caustic effects to the skin, causing chemical burns. Ready Mixed Concrete may cause skin burns with little warning; discomfort or pain cannot be relied upon to alert a person to a serious injury. Pain or the severity of the burn may not be felt or known until hours after the exposure. Medical conditions which may be aggravated by exposure: Contact with wet concrete may aggravate existing skin conditions. Sensitivity to hexavalent chromium can be aggravated by exposure.
@@tomahawkmissile241 I did my fair share of concrete work when I was younger. I seem to remember that the white dusty look would not go away even after a shower, but I soon learned that lime juice took care of that. It didn't really bother my skin back then but I wasn't exactly rolling around in the stuff. These days I can't work with cement at all in dust form, does all kinda bad things to my skin. Once it's mixed and wet I can work with it (no more dust), but I still can't let even the wet cement touch my skin. I'd say if it has warnings like these you'd best put on your darth vader costume when working with it.
I never realized how popular the topic of concrete was on UA-cam!
Hahahahahahah...me either!
Dry pour...soo hot right now!
@defenestrated23 in these trying times, we all need to save a few coins, but still accomplish projects that make us feel good; plus, this is just so much easier on the body, so even the most unskilled person feels they can tackle it & succeed!
Lol, that Louisiana couple really started a trend!
Rule 34
Concrete doesn't actually 'dry' in the sense that some people think. Powdered Portland Cement creates bonds between sand/stone aggregate when hydration is introduced. This bonding reaction continues for years in many cases, although most of the mix design strength occurs within 21days. The idea of using a mixer would be to insure that all sand and stone particles are evenly and sufficiently coated with Portland/water paste prior to placement.
There's another process called 'soil cementing', where dry Portland Cement or lime is knifed directly into wet soil to improve it's load bearing capacity.
To add a little bit of trivia to your statement, it is going to take the cement poured to make the Hoover Dam 125 years to cure.
@@verohandymike were getting close . LoL 😂
@@verohandymike Insane to think it won't be truly cured for another 37 years at least.
@@verohandymike you haven't watched it being built, have you?
@@MadSceintist Yes I have. Not recently. My memory of what I have seen is massive amounts of cement mix being poured into huge forms. You could throw a couple school busses into each of those forms. They actually had piping running through the forms through which they can pump water to help keep the initial curing process cool. Those pipes were later pumped full of cement mix also. So yeah, I believe it when they say a 660 foot thick poured cement foundation will take a long time to cure. Not sure why you asked your question though!
Your wife will wondering what happened to her big Pyrex bowl.
So true 😂
As a mason and concrete person, the reason the sides showed it hardening so fast is when concrete starts to harden it shrinks just enough to allow the water being sprayed to flow just a bit to reach the outer edges. It will take alot longer to reach the inner sections but eventually the slab will be solid
Worth noting relative to your friends 14,000 lb truck. That “huge” load undoubtedly has a contact area of at least one square foot, or more than 140 square inches. That’s only a load of about 100 psi, or far less than the 3,000 psi design strength of the concrete, so really not much of a test.
The other thing is that concrete doesn’t generally fail catastrophically at first, and especially not if it’s green. What is more likely to happen is that microscopic stress cracks begin which propagate over time resulting in noticeable and premature failure later in life.
This like every other one of my comments will be at the bottom of the algorithm.
Mixed cement has a strength advantage because the activation of components being bound by the heat that concrete inherently causes in a molecular level. The water isn't just the activator, its a lubricant to mix it easily.
Ask yourself why they don't pour dry concrete on a professional job of any kind
Would be interesting to see a side by side, one with the dry pour method and then mixing a small batch in the traditional method in a glass bowl. The results would be seen by testing hardness in a few days.
28 days
I'll do a video on this
Then spray the surface with a power washer to see how well the cement coated and bonded to the aggregate.
@@jakefriesenjake American Concrete Institute recommends a minimum cure period equal to concrete attaining 70% of specified compressive strength, for most concrete above 40 F, that's seven days. Curing Temps above 50 F increase early strength but decrease the 28 day strength with the difference being greater with increasing temp. There is a big difference between air curing and moist curing. For a concrete that air cures the entire time, you get 4100 psi, for 7 days moist cure 5400 psi, for 28 days moist cure, 6200 psi, for 365 day moist cure you get 8000 psi ...
The concrete in the bowl starts air curing as soon as he stops misting it. You can actually see the shrink where it's pulling away from the bowl. That means the concrete needs water content to remain in constant hydration. Microscopically, the batch accommodates plastic shrinkage by propagating microcracks. Low strength concrete shrinks while high strength concrete swells. The process is complex and it's hard to prevent cracking of slabs. The best methods are control joints, moist curing, and pond curing. Prevent any load on the concrete for 24 hours and prevent heavy loads for 10 days. You might not see cracking, but loading produces internal microcracks which compromise spec strength and longevity.
@@nevisstkitts8264 exactly. Keep it wet, covered and the weight off as long as possible.
Concrete will crack, but you can make the crack look better by cutting it. But if you cut it, you should install rebar to bridge the cut so both pieces will sink in unison. If you don't want to cut it, add fiberglass fibers or rebar and make it twice as thick as you originally had thought to pour it. Or just risk it and redo if needed.
I will be doing 4 tests, comparing wet mix, dry pour, and different levels of water misting and showering for the dry pour method. All tests will be then kept wet for many weeks. Then I will test
Change the amount of agitation (mixing) and you do change concrete strength.
You find this by taking matched samples of concrete mix, adding equal water, agitating each sample a different amount, then doing a hydraulic press to failure PSI test. A small amount of agitation goes a long way. common 3000 PSI concrete in 7 yard batch generally has 100 turns of the big drum on a cement mixer truck.
You can change the pressure to cause failure by changing the agitation.
A good substrate under a slab can help it survive the truck test.
Your truck is at 30 PSI to 90 PSI air in the tires. (depending on which truck) Compare that to the generally desired 3000 PSI concrete strength rating...
The truck test is stupidly easy to pass. It's more a test of the compressability ot the dirt under than it is a test of the concrete.
But, if that is the intended use, than that is the test that matters
Biggest question for me is how do you know when you've added enough (or too much) water to a dry pour that you can't see through
Thanks for posting, but this actually demonstrates why this should not be done. You can see the weak spots and the areas where it wasn't saturated leaving spaces. This will not last in countries like Canada.
Pro tip; wash your hands and any other skin that comes in contact with the concrete with vinegar. The acid in the vinegar will neutralize the alkali in the portland and prevent chemical burns.
Paper bags of cement in storage for long time even without contact with the floor just by absorbing moisture from the air get hard as rock in due time, so thin set does that fairly quickly by the way, this is due to the fact that the amount of water necessary for the concrete to set is way less than what is normally used, we pour more water for the sake of workability.
I've thrown away many partial sacks of cement products due to hardening. I have never seen one that is strong, just trash.
Hi, where is the second video showing? Where is this bowl of concrete is in two weeks
Links are in the description section.
All of the patience sure is paying off. Our well-spoken friend Paul has the gift…. We are entertained
Thank you my friend.
What about the moisture the concrete gets from the ground you didn’t account for
😂😂 cracked up when you tipped the bowl to show the top's texture! Love your videos! Keep em coming!
Thank you Diana!
When I worked for a development company, we would build retaining walls by filling croaker bags with cement mix and stacking them up dry. We would get semi-trailer loads of bagged sand mix on bigger jobs and stack them dry. Those would also harden by themselves. I've used the same method in washouts, and those bags get hard as concrete, oddly enough!
What your saying is certainly accurate. But what's more surprising is how little moisture is needed for portland Cement products to cure.
Spent a lot of time in MN. The freeze/thaw cycles were severe, so we mixed concrete with 6% air entrainment. We have to test our dry pour samples with freeze/dry cycles, after curing, to check of surface spalling resistance. We need to know if sealing against that is advisable.
The true strength of concrete supporting a load is all about the tightness of the ground under the concrete if the ground it setting on is not packed, dry or wet method will break
LOL! No, it won't break. Plenty of youtube vids have shown this. Look people, don't look for problems. It works. Ok? Just relax and use it, and save some money.
I like your approach I wish I had the money to send some samples to a testing lab but that simple glass bowl answers a lot of questions about hydrating bag concrete
You don’t need to send it to a testing lab. Any building that exists is done with “wet” concrete for a reason. Ive done 20 years of high rise construction in NYC. Every building has to adhere to “core sampling” and stress testing to ensure the slabs are cured properly to withstand load. IF dry pour was actually better then we wouldn’t need pump trucks/hoses/etc. it’s been proven for decades that dry pour isn’t better it’s just lazy DIY fad nonsense. You want to make a little pad to put some plants on in your yard? Go for it but don’t do anything that is actually structural.
If your actual concrete project is not in a glass bowl, you have to guess when there is enough water to penetrate the entire depth. Seems like more work than just mixing the concrete normally.
Regardless of where it is, adding more (and More, and MORE) water only helps concrete to cure once the curing begins. Some of the dry pours on UA-cam have been 1.5 inches deep, so it's pretty easy to get enough water.
The draw to dry pour isn't that is more or less work..it's that you have time get it smooth and can fix mistakes before the water is added. Another draw is that you don't need any mixer or wheelbarrow to do the job.
@@dchall8 lol, that 1.5" slab probably cracked off already. The quikrete bags themselves calls for a minimum 4" thickness. In fact all 4,000 psi concrete calls from a minimum of 4" thick. Most people could break 1.5" of concrete with their bare hands
@@Bennysol If you want to practice breaking 1.5-inch concrete with your hands, visit the garden section of HD or Lowe's and break a few of their thin pavers. Well, those were probably wet poured, so not comparable.
The 4000 psi number seems like the standard; however, since humans wearing shoes produce 15 psi, if all you are doing is walking on the surface, even 400 psi should be fine. I'm not going to build a rocket launch pad. I need something to keep the dirt off my shoes.
@@dchall8 mother nature (earth movement) trumps your little manicured feet. Your belong as a filler character in that 90's movie, Idiocracy. Which predicted what is now happening in the world. How long before you start watering your plants with Gatorade? Anothet 3 years maybe?
I am going to do a small 24" wide sidewalk for the mother-in-law this summer - I'm going to research a little bit more - as I live in MN with frost / freezing ground I will be using expanson peices between the sections - but I like this idea. - thanks for the trial.
I just dry poured two small concrtete pads for a gate. I'd be very interested if the internal dry concrete got wet and cured or stayed as a dry powder..
In our shed I drypoured 600 sq ft about 10 x 10 feet at a time an average of about 2 1/2 " thick over native soil so compact I probably could have gotten away with 1 ". One issue unique to this job was there was already exterior walls on a foundation so I had to get clever setting up my screed lines. Another issue I found is the finish of drypour is not nearly as smooth and consistent as wet pour. Also it has very thin cracks at all the seams because the different pours did not bond like seperate wet pours where you can add adhesive. I put water barrier under the slab although we live in a pretty dry climate.
Hey, you can be sure that I'm tchecking on all your tests with this method...loved them all... I'm planning my summer renovations!!!
Thank you!
I wasn't so worried about you. I don't think it will kill you or seize up something important or anything. No, I started unravelling when you were spraying the electronics! I was think, "No! That shit's expensive!".
Hahahahaha...I get it. I get lost sometimes when I'm making a video. But everything dried up and cleaned up nicely!
@@renetto next time, just cover it with a clear plastic garbage bag or drop cloth for practicality
Mixing all the sand, concrete and stone together is best.
he's used more water than an entire bag would need and dry pour takes way longer. I guess it works but it takes way less time to just mix it. I dont know, just seems easier to just mix it it.
I was wondering how this worked. Thanks for the interesting video
Dry pour works fine for DIYers, but professional concrete can require precise mixes, rebar and vibration to release the trapped air. As well as a professional finish.
Also that powder will burn you if you're not careful. It's like a bad sunburn.
Professionals need to charge more, so yeah, they need to do "something" to get that extra money. Dry pour doesn't require rebar, precise mixes or vibration to release trapped air. That's a lot of hogwash.
@@kennethm.380 You're the guy who puts in driveways and sidewalks that get 2 inch wide cracks all the way through and the broken slabs sink and heave another 2 inches
If I were going for the full 4000 psi, I would definitely wet mix it. However, for those of us in the southern US where it does not freeze, I think it should be fine for sidewalks where the load is never more than 300 lbs. My first 2 feet are sugar sand, do I will be getting some compacted gravel down first even doing a dry pour. I am doing a small pad outside my shop building, I am going to give this a try.
Saw laptop wet... Did bucket of cement next to table get wet? Good job, thanks for the experiment.
Wow, not only did i enjoy watching the concrete get hard, your hardness was impressive too!- see 6:09
Yep, those jeans were a little on the tight side of the line. I was not "hard" but it was not hard to see more than I was wanting to share.
That's what she said.
Now, you need to make a video about a respirator and how important it is .
This reminds me of watching guys put car tires on the back of cruiser bikes! Lots of controversy but by trying it I found out that it works fine!
Is it best to wet the ground before you pour out the dry concrete? So it absorbs a bit from underneath too?
Yes.
From what I've understood with researching dry pouring you don't want to underwet, because it starts your timer on finishing the project.
The base layer will be wet and thus start curing the moment you pop a bag on it.
If you have inconsistent curing you absolutely will have cracks and weaknesses in your concrete.
Similarly and I haven't seen enough evidence with regards to this part, but from what I was taught with doing mortar work, you've gotta let concrete "flash" which is when you're mixing you let it sit and absorb water on the microscopic level prior to pouring traditional concrete.
Similar to letting pancake or waffle batter rest before you actually start cooking.
Secondly but related, from what I've been taught with regards to concrete you've gotta keep your concrete "wet" for far longer than a person might expect. And I don't feel like any dry pour video has done justice to this aspect.
If you pour a concrete driveway you're supposed to water it usually for 2 weeks (depending on climate) to slow down the visible drying which increases the invisible "curing".
Because Portland cement cures by a type of crystalization, and the longer it's "wet" the stronger that crystalization becomes.
@@lightjedi6 I think you just condensed a semester of college concrete class into a few paragraphs. However, who's to say that the flash does not occur in the dry pour? In any case, a LOT more testing needs to be done to determine what are good applications for dry pour. What if you use plastic inside the form before adding the dry concrete? How does wire mesh or rebar affect strength? How long should you keep the dry pour moist (I'm wondering if 28 days is enough)?
@@dchall8 I would dare say that it does indeed flash when you dry pour, the issue that arises is that if a diy person chooses to dry pour and they are lax on the watering then the flashing can cause voids to form inside the slab (probably very small) from uneven shrinking. Similar issue if you live in an arid environment like I do here in Colorado.
I completely agree that more experimenting needs to be done, especially with substrates and internal supports.
I do believe that this will make for some awesome innovations in the future of construction.
To your comment about how long it should be damp for, that's something that I wish would be mentioned more in videos like this, educating people on the fact that concrete doesn't dry, it cures. (Obviously it does dry but you know what I mean)
I'm intending to do some concrete work around my place hopefully this summer, so I might just add to the experimenting. If I get to it I'll definitely try to document what my results are.
I will definitely be using concrete blankets to slow the wicking process and I'll probably water it longer, pretty much following the guidelines for when you have a driveway poured (two weeks of twice a day) mostly because my current driveway is old torn up asphalt.
I love that you are testing this because I seriously just questioned the strength of dry pour myself. I'm curious if you could do one that is actually an experiment in something that would be more like it hardening in dirt? or burlap? I feel like the glass bowl would hold the moisture versus the soaking into the soil around it? I had folks tell me that the dry pour won't get the moisture into the depth and therefore it will crack and be more weak?
Doesn't even matter if the moisture penetrates fully during the dry pour moistening.
You get a "loose bond" concrete. The cement not properly bonded to the aggregate.
Initial dampening and surface hardening creates a layer that is not going to be properly bonded to the layer moistened in the next soaking... and on down. It's sort of like shale and will be flaky. (in every meaning of the word)
Eventually, the rest of the concrete does dampen enough to set. But still, it happened in layers and without proper bonding between cement and aggregate.
It's a 3 to 5 yeqar solution for a 40 year problem of wanting a foundation.
3 to 5 years might be enough for your needs...
Trying the dry pour for a structural foundation is asking for a house to collapse.
It pull moisture from the ground so it gets it from both sides. If you just pour the dry concrete in a hole and did. It add any water at all, it would be rock hard in a week
@@fhuber7507 I don't think anyone would be using it for foundation work infact I have not seen anyone use it for structural work mostly walkways, patios and slabs.
Dry pour works. The cement mixture will continue to wick the moisture where it finds it. It may not be 100% as strong in a matter of days, but it will be 99% as strong in a matter of months. That's not to say you have to wait that long. If it's a fence post, 48 hours later you should be good to hammer away.
You could save all this time drizzling water going through intervals, just by simply mixing the cement with water for just a minute, and then leaving it to solidify, that could save us time also, don't you think? This process has to be done in a transparent pot while the whole procedure is messy for your laptop as well..
Exactly, we can mix about 100 bags of concrete from 6-10 out of a wheel barrel and be done finishing it by noon. These dry pour guys will still be sprinkling water on it at midnight. It's just a lazy way of doing it
Excellent video bro, always wanted to know about this, you explained it soooo good
I did concrete remediation for 10 years in my younger days. So far no side effects from silica inhalation. But my hands are numb to heat and cold. But that's years of exposure to wet and dry concrete and bonding agents.
Would it take less than an hour to fill that bowl with wet concrete? Maybe if the bowl is upside down .
One of the coolest concrete videos I’ve ever seen. This opens up so many possibilities!!!!
This was interesting. I watched my first video on dry pour the other day, which shocked me but I loved seeing the wetting in action through the bowl. Had you been doing it on a stepping stone it may have reached completion sooner as it would not have been as deep. Another experiment I do not have to do! Thank you for sharing!!
Love this test video! But how does one know truly when it’s done accepting water when not being able to see the bottom?
Paul it's great to see you still doing well and I hope you're still manifesting your morning manifests,if not I'm sad to hear, but you seem to be doing well without it.
Great video I just watched several other videos this morning. Shout out from Orlando. Thanks for making it.
You're in Orlando? Juan lives in Tampa. ;-|
After a few days, I'd probably end up breaking it apart with a sledgehammer to check the middle.
I'll be doing that next week!
30 days for max strength
How did it go? @@renetto
Like the vid explaining and how we were all able to watch the cement dry. Question, how many times did you have to water it..well because we can see it happen on the glass but won't be able to see it when actually being done on the ground. How will I know I didn't miss a spot or area deep down at the base. By the way, I live in tampa😊
It will keep sucking moisture from the ground until it coat no longer suck moisture
@@davefletch3063 By the way, Juan lives in Tampa.
Hope you mixed a bowl of wet poured concrete too for comparison and strength testing. I'm curious to see if there is any measurable strength difference.
Thr hole for my pergolas cement to hold up one of the 4 poles was filling up with water so fast so I said what the heck and just poured dry cement into it and it worked no problem : )
I'm sure this was still dry in the middle and being in a bowl it can't draw moisture from the ground to get the remaining moisture it needs for a full cure but I think the experiment still shows people the basic idea of how it works
Mix concrete with water with the right consistency, pour it in your bowl and you're done. Who has the time to mist and shower for hours? The finish on the dry pour looks like crap.
I think ground water might play an important part when pouring a slab.
I wonder if watering the ground before pouring the concrete mix on would help speed the process.
I really want to do this . Lol y'all keep experimenting for me . ❤ Love it!
I think the thing that bothers me most about this method is that most demos shown aren't considering the water/concrete ratio as specified by the manufacturer. If you add too much water to concrete it weakens it fundamentally and no longer meets its intended strength requirements. In theory I cant really see any substantial difference between a wet pour and a dry one (to many peoples point we have been dry pouring posts for years), but I would really like to see this again with the 'correct' amount of water as specified by the manufacture to see if it can penetrate properly and setup. For non structural applications such as walkways etc I can't see why this wouldn't work and be excellent, but would it work in scenarios where you are seeking the manufacturers psi rating???
that's bulls eye ....!!!
This only works where the ground doesn't freeze. A couple months of warm days and freezing nights will break it up.
Mixing allows the void spaces between the dry particles to collapse and densify. Mixing in too much water creates void spaces in a finished pour by allowing unabsorbed, incompressible water to function as a temporary scaffold between curing particles. The total volume of a dry pour slab is greater than an over wet slab using the same amount of concrete mix. A dry pour slab would be less dense overall and have more total voids, but an over wetted slab could also change the distribution of cement and aggregates within the matrix. If the mix is so wet that the cement gets floated to the surface and the sand gets washed to the bottom it will be much weaker, but that would take way more water than what most people consider to be over wet.
Either way, even weak pours are generally far stronger than they need to be for most applications. I've made walking paths and greenhouse floors with aircrete. It feels great to have something softer and cooler underfoot, and the greenhouse slab has plenty of strength to hold up the stick framed glass walls.
Thank you so much for your video. I am so going to try this on a walkway.
The professional cement whisperers will tell you that when you walk on it you'll be swallowed up whole, never to be seen again. Tread (yuck yuck) carefully.
Still the best true storyteller on UA-cam 😊
The big thing is that the glass bowl holds the form, and water, whereas the ground won't.
The issue is that too much water can affect the cure, its not about drying. You should follow Cajun Country Livin instructions, they wait the appropriate time between mists and also limit the quantity, you would end up with a stronger dry pour. It might of survived the truck at 48hours.
Will the water continue to penetrate if you burnish the surface by trowelling? I'm wondering if a trowelled finish is possible with dry-pouring.
Maybe add a layer of portland to the top before wetting it down?
Yes you can float it after you wet and the surface from a dry pour. Wet it but don't make a soup. Floating works best for a wet pour. Dry pour is typical for artisans who's final appearance shows the underlying materials where you're using marbles, cut glass, polished stones, and petrified wood.
King of All UA-cam has figured out the algorithm
Portland cement is alkaline and there's no amount of washing or hand lotion that will fix your dry hands in a reasonable amount of time. However, what you can do is neutralize the condition by washing your hands with 5% white vinegar and don't rinse them off with water. You may smell like a walking salad bar but it will bring relief to the dryness. A gallon jug of vinegar is standard issue when I do concrete jobs.
I guess I'm curious to know if it aoaked through to the middle
awesome. YOU ROCK. thanks for the experiment, very useful info. CHeers!
I’ve seen small retaining walls mad of stacked concrete bags. It was about a year or so after they were built and the paper bags were starting to come off. Not classy, but it did the job.
Our L shaped Quikrete bag wall is still standing... for eight years now. From time to time, however a bit fell off, we suspect from mowing bumps. The bags became raggedy after three years.
@@lizlafferty1278 We have a sea wall done with Quikrete bags and rebar driven in when bags were placed to keep it in place. Works wel and certainly is more economical...also looks good once the paper comes off the bags.
I saw a video like that, and they guy was smart and used a power washer to get the bags off. Looked good then. I wouldn't leave the bags on, would look tacky.
Good video. Since most walkways/patios are 3.5” thick, I’d be curious to see you do this in a Pyrex casserole pan. I’m sure the water penetration would be more even and reach the bottom at a lesser thickness of concrete. Btw… nice jeans 😜
Could you try to dry pour something like a structural footer or foundation and one of those cardboard cylinder beam footers? Just to see how it would work...
How can I relax when you're using nice Pyrex for this?!?!
Many years ago in Australia, they made roads by dry pouring cement and rotary hoeing it into the ground. I saw video about it a few years ago, but can't find it now.
Look up "Soil Cement". It's often used in earthen homes as an earthen floor effect while still being more durable than a standard compacted earthen floor.
@@simplysaida I seen those video, one video I saw the father refence he got the idea from video from Australia, about how roads use to be made. I want to share the link on here, but could not find it again. Thx
Hard. Yes... but what is the compression strength compared the mixed concrete?
entirely dependent on the use case. for something like a pad for a garden shed, chicken coup...light foot traffic...i would say it's irrelevant. nobody is saying dry pouring concrete is better or even remotely equal to traditional mixing.
Thanks 👍
I wouldn't be pouring a driveway just yet until the results come out.
Im guessing for a walkway or shed, however flexing under load day after day just might produce cracks???
You could add reinforce wire or rebar half way up. It wouldn’t guarantee no cracks but it would keep it all together
Looks good, in the name of science you might have killed a perfectly good glass bowl.
Hahahahahaha...
How thin have you tested it? could you do a resurfacing of about an inch thick using this method? thanks!
Each type of mix states the minimum thickness on the bag. To get to 1 inch, you would need a different mix. It would have smaller aggregate and a different ratio of Portland to other ingredients.
Need an honest opinion. Kwikrete or Sakrete?
What was the elapsed time for the mixture to get wet to the bottom?
About an hour.
Do it however you want! I will, with input how u do it. Yadayadayada...lets call it beautiful!!!
This is fascinating to watch! Hope the results are good
It is not hard in 2 minutes more than the water compacted it been in concrete for over 30 years, not beating you up love your method not sure I would try this for something structural but for a homeowner would be a good idea to save money
yea i think for most homeowners and residential purposes its good enough. like a small slab or walkway. no way its going to be strong enough for foundation or park a vehicle
How about color? Experiment with a color additive as grey concrete can be boring for a patio or sidewalk. Any one know of a color mix at a common store?
Now Paul......
The trick is, to find a PURPOSE for your bowl blob of concrete!
It's not 'quick dry concrete' it's just ordinary concrete it that correct ? Thank you from Australia x
Yes. Simple. Cheep. Premix concrete.
I would bet you can sculpt things this way...
Ummmm, this is how a lot of concrete planters, statues, and yard art are made. They use steel molds and vibrate them some when filling in the concrete.
You wont get burns unless you handle the cement once its mixed with water.
What happened to part two?
I would love to see you make dry pour flowerbed borders next. It is super expensive to hire someone to do that and purchasing a machine to do it yourself is also ridiculous. I bet it could be done without the machine.
But is this really accurate being that the water isn't escaping into the ground it's just collecting in the bowl
Water doesn't escape from dry or curing concrete. The concrete keeps soaking any water around it until it starts bleeding out at the top if it has taken too much water
A lot of water is wasted and when you pour it wet because the cement fragments become much closer the bound between is stronger.
Anyone doing a dry pour might want to tamp the top surface or even tamp as they go along to get rid of any voids in the powder.
So much for next week....
Very good experimental video
Thank you very much
looks about as hard as when it was in the bag. is it next week already? darn
Then why not wear rubber gloves if contact is an issue?
I've been wondering for a long time if this kind of cement can be used to pour into a
cement driveway to fill a section of the drive that was damaged when a tree fell acoss it.
Of course the bottom of the cracked section is not smooth like your bowl and it has
a little bit of grass and dirt I guess. It's not a very big section - maybe 10 inches long.
Yes. I did. 4’ repair like this and it worked well. I added that acrylic binder they seem to ensure adhesion to the concrete that remained.
Interesting but you dont have anything in your bowl to take the excess like the ground would. And letting it set for the suggested time would be better.
Is appreciation this demonstration
For best results. Follow the instructions on the product you are using
Where are all the professional concrete pourers from the other video🤔🤔🤔🤔🤣😂🤣😂🤣🙏🏽
Who knew thank you🎉🎉
I work at a concrete plant and I'm fine
I’m not convinced