Mine overheated and melted the plastic sparkplug boots unto the plugs. Boots broke upon removal. No one has idea how to get plastic off plugs to remove valve cover. Leaking coolant hose to throttle body cooked engine, blew head gasket. ONLY idea I have is to torch the melted remnants on plugs - DANGEROUS.
I did all of my exhaust valves. Both my #2 cylinder valves were maxed out and one of my #4 valves was at less than 0.1 mm. I took them all down to 0.325 in thick with my bench grinder. Runs beautifully.
Mr Kelly, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! We had one exhaust valve that we couldn't gauge and had no clue what to do about it and then I found your video 🤯 and it worked just like you said, car runs great 👍👍
Just finished one, had to grind 4 followers, I am real pleased with the result. Only one concern, the clearance mentioned should have been .006-.008, not .060-.080.
@@LLCoolPass Right. My mistake. Well, it seems mine is junk at 230k. Sparkplug boots melted onto plugs, stiff, thin plastic broke upon removal. No one had idea how to get melted plastic off. Can't remove valve cover with plugs attached. AutoZone "Premium" grade wires rated at 252°. Denso and NGK ortiginals rated for up to 532°
A thousand thanks for this video! My first valve adjustment ever just today and I got one of these... going great, got the 'feeling' down, adjusting like a pro... Then I hit the Cylinder 1 > Timing Belt Side exhaust valve: [.20mm] doesn't work. Okay. [.15]mm doesn't work. Ugh, fine. Loosened the Tappet Screw *all the way*.... only my foil-thin [.05]mm fits... not even the next size up [.08]mm fits... thinking to myself "what the hell could possibly be going on?!?" Then I remembered this video :) No access to a grinder, so I'm gonna take the time tomorrow to try this tomorrow with a hand file. It'll take a bit, but it should work. I'll post back with results.
@jouxpane All done, operation was a success! Details... - Rotate the engine so that the lobe is DOWN on the problem valve. - Take a medium-large-sized Hex Key (3/8-1/4inch should do it), with a "Lower L" part about 1-1.5inch long, slip the lower-L part under the cam, then rotate it 90 degrees left or right such that the "lower-L-part" faces into the underside of the problem valve's nearest camshaft guide arch. - Holding the hex key where it is, turn the camshaft 180 degrees, so that it's off-lobe. About 90 degrees in, the valve spring will try to return, and it will pinch the hex key where it is, depressing the spring. - Remove the problem rocker assembly. The rocker is ~12/32in thick. I took it down to ~9/32inch. 1. FILE THE SIDE OPPOSITE THE 'ROCKING' surface... the BOTTOM! 2. MAKE SURE YOUR FILING IS FLAT AND EVEN, not canted off to one side. 3. Only file ~1/8inch into the neck of the rocker. Round it out / blend it into the neck if you have the time... do it as he did it in the video. I did the actual filing with a standard metal file, clamped into a gouge in a 2x4, on my lap, holding it with my toes..... but even then I was done in 3 hours. EZ. Manual filing in a vice will take ~1-2 hours max. Power tools / bench tools can do it in ~10 minutes. Blow all the shavings off, MAKE SURE to use Q-tips to clean out all the metal shavings from the rocker threads. Clean the threads until the Q-tip comes out clean. Reassemble the rocker, put a dab of oil on the tappet ball joint, and slip it back in position. Rotate the cam back on-lobe again, and remove the hex key. Set the valve lash on the problem valve(s) Done. Started her up, runs great, 'sewing machine' noise is gone, throatier engine noise, idled until up to temp, drove around the block, no problems. Chris Kelly, thanks again for the video. You saved my bacon.
I had the second #4 exhaust valve completely out of spec. And a few others were backed all the way off. So I took all of my exhaust rocker arms to 0.325 in. Runs perfectly now and I have plenty of adjustment. All of my intake valves were within spec.
thanks man , i was thinking to do the same thing and i was looking for someone who has already done it ! i was thinking also on removing material from the valve stem but with this metod i dont have to make a mess in the head with the shavings .. greetings and thank you ! liked and subscribed !
Awesome video! thanks. I have that problem on a single Intake Valve , on a single rocker arm, its strange , its recommended to do this procedure? is the car shop Valve Job not performed correctly? the guide or the seat of the valve is whats missing to be checked to avoid grinding anything on the head? really worried about what to do! thanks again, hope to receive a reply!
So you bought a remanned head in which they probably re-ground the valve seats which were probably already suffering from recession??? I'd be throwing stuff and cussing up a storm! I had the same issue with my '99. 2 burned valves. Honda wouldn't fix it (beyond the warranty) even though the owner's manual recommends adjustment at 100,000 miles and it's actually more like 30,000. Not a real difficult job, but you have to buy a special valve spring compression tool. A standard one won't work because the head is too deep. I paid $80 for it and haven't used it since. Good thing about it is that you can compress 2 valves at a time with it. Still driving the car with 338,000 miles on it and I check/adjust the valve lash religiously! BTW I did NOT replace my head. Took a chance and it worked out, fortunately.
I know I'm late to the party, but will the heat from grinding do anything to the temper of the metal? And if it does - does it matter? Just bought a 2001 CRV myself with a burnt valve, looking to do exactly what you've done. Good video!
I don't think it'll work with a burnt valve this is only for a recessed seat due to the valve slapping the seat constantly. A burnt valve means the valve has actual damage and that's why it fails to seal. Maybe I'm wrong?
Or 6 thousandths (of an inch, or 'mil', or 'thou') and 8 thousandths. (Never 'thousands' regardless.). Was going to comment on this, scrolled to comments, surprised you're the only one who did :).
I never bought a remanufactured cylinder head so if I had this condition of lack of adjustment range on the exhaust valves would this mean that the engine rebuilder failed to do a good job?
That was my thought. If someone sold me a head that could not be adjusted to specification, then I would return it. You should not have to machine a re-manufactured head.
Hi Tom, Your car still running? I have the same issue, one of my exhaust valve already max clearance. Can this work in my situation? Appreciate any Help!!
Yeah. Honda's need this maintenance every 30k- 50k. If you can't do it, hire a knowledgeable mechanic to. There are other videos explaining Honda valve clearance adjustment. It's the EXHAUST VALVES that get tight. So an Italian tune-up by not using overdrive on the highway for 300-400 miles first wil burn off carbon which helps
@@tomkelly4102 Have you an idea how to remove remnants of melted plastic boots on s-plugs? Can't remove plugs. 2001 CRV B20, I believe. Melting with a torch with the engine in vehicle could be dangerous.
Pisses me off how anybody can dislike this video.
Great job and excellent documentation!
Thanks Christopher. This worked beautifully on my 2000 CRV. Got me through inspection and will keep me on the road
for awhile longer. Thanks again.
Glad it worked out for you. I was very happy myself not to have to remove the head and replace it again with another one!
Mine overheated and melted the plastic sparkplug boots unto the plugs. Boots broke upon removal. No one has idea how to get plastic off plugs to remove valve cover. Leaking coolant hose to throttle body cooked engine, blew head gasket. ONLY idea I have is to torch the melted remnants on plugs - DANGEROUS.
I did all of my exhaust valves. Both my #2 cylinder valves were maxed out and one of my #4 valves was at less than 0.1 mm. I took them all down to 0.325 in thick with my bench grinder. Runs beautifully.
Mr Kelly, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
We had one exhaust valve that we couldn't gauge and had no clue what to do about it and then I found your video 🤯 and it worked just like you said, car runs great 👍👍
I just did this to mine I couldn't get enough clearance on my cylender #1 exaust valve it worked great. Thanks for the awsome video!
Just finished one, had to grind 4 followers, I am real pleased with the result.
Only one concern, the clearance mentioned should have been .006-.008, not .060-.080.
He actually essentially was saying 0.0006 not .060
He SAID 60/1000 which is . 006.
@@Jake-by9ly sixty thousandths is 0.06
@@LLCoolPass Right. My mistake. Well, it seems mine is junk at 230k. Sparkplug boots melted onto plugs, stiff, thin plastic broke upon removal. No one had idea how to get melted plastic off. Can't remove valve cover with plugs attached. AutoZone "Premium" grade wires rated at 252°. Denso and NGK ortiginals rated for up to 532°
@@RastaJediX 6/10,000? I don't think so
A thousand thanks for this video! My first valve adjustment ever just today and I got one of these... going great, got the 'feeling' down, adjusting like a pro...
Then I hit the Cylinder 1 > Timing Belt Side exhaust valve: [.20mm] doesn't work. Okay. [.15]mm doesn't work. Ugh, fine. Loosened the Tappet Screw *all the way*.... only my foil-thin [.05]mm fits... not even the next size up [.08]mm fits... thinking to myself "what the hell could possibly be going on?!?"
Then I remembered this video :)
No access to a grinder, so I'm gonna take the time tomorrow to try this tomorrow with a hand file. It'll take a bit, but it should work.
I'll post back with results.
@jouxpane All done, operation was a success! Details...
- Rotate the engine so that the lobe is DOWN on the problem valve.
- Take a medium-large-sized Hex Key (3/8-1/4inch should do it), with a "Lower L" part about 1-1.5inch long, slip the lower-L part under the cam, then rotate it 90 degrees left or right such that the "lower-L-part" faces into the underside of the problem valve's nearest camshaft guide arch.
- Holding the hex key where it is, turn the camshaft 180 degrees, so that it's off-lobe. About 90 degrees in, the valve spring will try to return, and it will pinch the hex key where it is, depressing the spring.
- Remove the problem rocker assembly.
The rocker is ~12/32in thick. I took it down to ~9/32inch.
1. FILE THE SIDE OPPOSITE THE 'ROCKING' surface... the BOTTOM!
2. MAKE SURE YOUR FILING IS FLAT AND EVEN, not canted off to one side.
3. Only file ~1/8inch into the neck of the rocker. Round it out / blend it into the neck if you have the time... do it as he did it in the video.
I did the actual filing with a standard metal file, clamped into a gouge in a 2x4, on my lap, holding it with my toes..... but even then I was done in 3 hours. EZ.
Manual filing in a vice will take ~1-2 hours max. Power tools / bench tools can do it in ~10 minutes.
Blow all the shavings off, MAKE SURE to use Q-tips to clean out all the metal shavings from the rocker threads. Clean the threads until the Q-tip comes out clean.
Reassemble the rocker, put a dab of oil on the tappet ball joint, and slip it back in position.
Rotate the cam back on-lobe again, and remove the hex key.
Set the valve lash on the problem valve(s)
Done. Started her up, runs great, 'sewing machine' noise is gone, throatier engine noise, idled until up to temp, drove around the block, no problems.
Chris Kelly, thanks again for the video. You saved my bacon.
I had the second #4 exhaust valve completely out of spec. And a few others were backed all the way off. So I took all of my exhaust rocker arms to 0.325 in. Runs perfectly now and I have plenty of adjustment. All of my intake valves were within spec.
Yes. It's generally the Honda exhaust valves that get too tight. Burning off carbon by locking out overdrive for 309-400 highway miles helps
thanks man , i was thinking to do the same thing and i was looking for someone who has already done it ! i was thinking also on removing material from the valve stem but with this metod i dont have to make a mess in the head with the shavings .. greetings and thank you ! liked and subscribed !
Awesome video! thanks. I have that problem on a single Intake Valve , on a single rocker arm, its strange , its recommended to do this procedure? is the car shop Valve Job not performed correctly? the guide or the seat of the valve is whats missing to be checked to avoid grinding anything on the head? really worried about what to do! thanks again, hope to receive a reply!
So you bought a remanned head in which they probably re-ground the valve seats which were probably already suffering from recession??? I'd be throwing stuff and cussing up a storm! I had the same issue with my '99. 2 burned valves. Honda wouldn't fix it (beyond the warranty) even though the owner's manual recommends adjustment at 100,000 miles and it's actually more like 30,000. Not a real difficult job, but you have to buy a special valve spring compression tool. A standard one won't work because the head is too deep. I paid $80 for it and haven't used it since. Good thing about it is that you can compress 2 valves at a time with it. Still driving the car with 338,000 miles on it and I check/adjust the valve lash religiously! BTW I did NOT replace my head. Took a chance and it worked out, fortunately.
how she running today? interesting fix. i like it and love these crvs
Still running strong! Great cars!
I know I'm late to the party, but will the heat from grinding do anything to the temper of the metal? And if it does - does it matter? Just bought a 2001 CRV myself with a burnt valve, looking to do exactly what you've done. Good video!
I don't think it'll work with a burnt valve this is only for a recessed seat due to the valve slapping the seat constantly. A burnt valve means the valve has actual damage and that's why it fails to seal. Maybe I'm wrong?
Wow! I hope I never need this but great to know thanks!!!!
How do you get the rocker back in the same way it came out I've got a 97 CRV having same issues
Does the end of the Allen wrench go under the cam lobe or under the rocker on top of valve so it can be removed
Good video!
It's not point 6 thousands and point 8 thousands, it's .006" and .008"
Or 6 thousandths (of an inch, or 'mil', or 'thou') and 8 thousandths. (Never 'thousands' regardless.). Was going to comment on this, scrolled to comments, surprised you're the only one who did :).
notes:How to replace a burnt valve
Interesting and informative video! Thanks. How did things turn out?
Car is still running great! Thanks for the feedback!
Very informative video. Thanks
I never bought a remanufactured cylinder head so if I had this condition of lack of adjustment range on the exhaust valves would this mean that the engine rebuilder failed to do a good job?
That was my thought. If someone sold me a head that could not be adjusted to specification, then I would return it. You should not have to machine a re-manufactured head.
Did you put rtv on the cam caps?!?!??
I've read that the Honda intake valves stay pretty much in specs, but exhaust valves get tight. Is that true?
Christopher, I've got misfire issues with my '01 CRV SE (231k miles). Where do you get your parts? (Reman'd engine or cylinder head?)
Rock Auto parts for just about anything - even antiques
What are the chances of the valve keepers coming off and the valve dropping
Can happen, usually with overheated engines....
Hi Tom,
Your car still running? I have the same issue, one of my exhaust valve already max clearance. Can this work in my situation? Appreciate any Help!!
What is the number of feeler gauge.
How did you get the screws out? Had to force mine do not come out very easy obligation and hugs
I had a little difficulty removing the threaded portion as well - needed a large screwdriver and some torque but I was able to remove them.
I have this problem on my 97 any advice out there would be greatly appreciated
Yeah. Honda's need this maintenance every 30k- 50k. If you can't do it, hire a knowledgeable mechanic to. There are other videos explaining Honda valve clearance adjustment. It's the EXHAUST VALVES that get tight. So an Italian tune-up by not using overdrive on the highway for 300-400 miles first wil burn off carbon which helps
@@Jake-by9ly well I had the same exact problem did it the way you just did it car runs 10 times better lot more power
.007 is the spec. Seven thousandths I'm assuming he just misspoke. It is not .070 or seventy thousandths.
Kevin O'Reilly Yes, he meant to say seven thousands, Oops lol, Thanks for pointing that out
My bad - 0.007" (seven-thousandths).
Tom Kelly is this the spec for a 2001 Honda CR-V RD1 sport witch is the B20B8 motor ? If so what is the spec for in & ex thanks
@@tomkelly4102 Have you an idea how to remove remnants of melted plastic boots on s-plugs? Can't remove plugs. 2001 CRV B20, I believe. Melting with a torch with the engine in vehicle could be dangerous.
Can we hear it run.
can you help? mines they are on the limite hall ready
This procedure will help you get a squeeze out some more clearance.
Halod Dinala
The cam is supposed to be pointed up lmao