04 Expedition 5.4 motor with essentially the same setup. Line corroded and leaking at the radiator. I was thinking it was going to be difficult, however seeing your video, it looks like it's do-able. I expect some frustration, knuckle banging, and cursing.. but that's all free. Thanks for saving me some money.
For everyone asking these are the part numbers for the line and couplers from my local dealership Oil Cooler Tube: 7C410 The nut: 7D273A The plastic clips: 7Z465 And this is a 4x4 truck
Temporarily attaching a rubber drain hose to your transmission line that's coming from the transmission to the radiator is a great way to change out all the old dirty transmission fluid....the key is to start the engine and add the new fluid while at the same time the old fluid is being pumped out and when the old worn out dirty fluid color changes to a bright red your all done.......just check fluid levels after and add fluid accordingly.
Okay i am having major trouble. Ive went to the ford dealership but they gave me these exxct same parts. Only problem is, is mine is set up at a 4.2 not a 4.6 my bottom line of the radiator have a connector peice right in the middle and it connects to the transmission not the cooler. Both my hoses connect to the transmission.. can you assist? I have a 2002 ford f150 v8 4.6L engine Lariat.
What model year is your truck? The 2L1Z-7D273-BB quick connect fitting that goes in the radiator is listed as for 2004-2005 MY F-150's produced between 6/2003 and 11/2004. Ford doesn't list the fitting separately for the later 2005-2008 trucks and wants to sell the entire radiator.
Great video, exact same problems I'm having with my 2008 F150. Can you give me the part #'s for the fittings/nuts that go into the radiator and the cooler please? It looks like I will have to cut the line too as I can't get the tool in there due to the rust. Thanks.
Paul Davey I got everything from the dealer and don't currently have the part numbers. I called my local Ford dealer and gave them the vin number and they got everything for me.
So I went to the dealer and they tell me they don't sell the fitting on the radiator separately, he says you have to buy the whole radiator for $400+. No thank you. I went home, cut the line and removed the fitting, then sprayed PB Blaster on it about 15 times and took a wire brush to it. I was finally able to use the special tool and a pair of needle nose pliers and removed the rest of the line. Now my problem is the fitting at the cooler, which is rusted worse than the other one. I will check with the dealer for that part, but will try a different Ford dealer this time. (For anyone else reading this, I suggest using Lisle Special disconnect tool #39660. It is a metal scissor version of the one shown in this video and is more durable. I bought it on Amazon for about $11.) Thanks again for your help with this JB.
Paul Davey Sorry for the late response was having problems with my phone, it has been a while but I think the nut could have been 15 or 16 mm OK I'm so sorry, pdthealth.my4life.com please give your support and share.
Don’t bother with the transmission disconnect tool, invest in a Dremel instead.... I’m honestly ashamed this thing was made in America, as bad as the metallurgy is... every fastener on the vehicle is corroded, and let’s not even mention the spark plug problem they engineered... I’m amazed the exhaust header is only cracked in one place... does Ford really not have any understanding of metal whatsoever? Maybe they sound peek around at a 30 year old Japanese vehicle and finally learn something...
Do you happen to remember or could you post the part number for the connector that goes in the radiator? My local Ford dealer tells me I have to replace the whole radiator because you cant buy that connector! You have a new connector in the bag I know he's lying! Thanks in advance!
@NiNi606 I went to local Ford dealer and gave them my vin and told them what I needed and they had all of the items. I couldn’t find them reliably anywhere else.
Y'all doing this way too hard...the ford factory line couplers have a plastic fitting inside remove the fitting while attached to the line, unthread It from the rad.. Use a propane torch to heat up the fitting and while hot just slide it off the line...fitting is no good anyway... upgrade to Dorman 2 oring fittings use Teflon tape re install
These lines wouldn't rust if Ford zinc plated them. They don't use treated steel so everything rots away. They've always known this but continue to build this way. All about the money. On my last Ford product. I hate them. And why do the line manufacturers make us reuse the old "quick" connect fittings? Are they too stupid to realise how hard it is to get them apart? Also, how much did it cost?
Thanks for the info. I bought the same vehicle from a gentleman and have had this problem with trans fluid leaking, as well as the plugs. I've done the plugs myself and doing trans line soon. Do you know about aparking brake light coming on during acceleration? It used to happen when I hit 110, then 60, now at 40km it may come on. I want to suggest running lucas fuel system cleaner through your truck though, after cleaning it all it took me from 680km a tank to nearly 800!
Gregory Mosher thanks for the advice about the cleaner that may be something to look into. Is it the abs light or the emergency light? I had an issue with my emergency brake light coming on. Once I took the dash apart and found the instrument cluster, I took it apart, clean it, and put dielectric grease on it. After all of that it has been working fine. But I'm not sure what could be causing that, could be something to look into.
Gregory Mosher also there are 2 sensors that deal with the break light. One is the emergency break switch, and that is located just above where the the emergency break petal is located. Two is the break fluid level sensor and that is located under the break fluid revisor. Other things to look into.
Gregory Mosher im having an loud sound coming from under my truck f150 sounds like its gonna break or the tranny is gonna fall does anybody know what could be the problem? Many thanks.
After watching this video and zooming in on the part numbers and searching ford catalogs I found the part #'s. I successfully installed them on mine. the top connector part # is 2L1Z-7D273-BB and the bottom connector is YL3Z-7D273-AA
Disconnecting with the disconnect tool was easy enough, but I can't get the bottom line to push back in. What a hassle. If someone has some trick for pushing the line in let me know.
@Davi d I used the tool to put mine back in. It actually pushed back out from where I put it in and thought it was in all the way. But I used the tool to get it past the bumb and then took the tool out and pushed it a little harder (without bending the line) and it had been great ever since.
I find this video useless. My 3/8 disconnect (same as video) won't work because the line is rusted onto the radiator coupler. And cutting it and buying a new line isn't an option.
One thing you could do that’s worked for me in the past. Take rust penetrant and spray it let it sit then do it a couple more times I would try some heat too if possible. Then take a small flat screwdriver and work around the edge of it and it can help free where the line sits in the coupler and the tool may work better. Another thing you could do is try to take the coupler off and work it from the inside but if it’s that rusted you may not be able to get it off.
Wow, you've slaughtered all correct nomenclature for the components in this repair. Not a hose, a hard line. Not rivets; detents or ridges. Nevetheless, you showed how to do it and I suppose you accomplish what you set out to do.
Listen not everyone went to school to learn how to become a tool and use tools. I never said I was a mechanic or knew all of that. But yes my truck is running great with 120,000 miles and been a work truck from day one. I bet it looks better than any of your personal trucks.
I'm having the same issue, and I've never done this repair before. This video was super helpful, thank you
I don't care what type of truck that you have the weather elements will work on anything rust-wise so you've done a great job
04 Expedition 5.4 motor with essentially the same setup. Line corroded and leaking at the radiator. I was thinking it was going to be difficult, however seeing your video, it looks like it's do-able. I expect some frustration, knuckle banging, and cursing.. but that's all free. Thanks for saving me some money.
For everyone asking these are the part numbers for the line and couplers from my local dealership
Oil Cooler Tube: 7C410
The nut: 7D273A
The plastic clips: 7Z465
And this is a 4x4 truck
Temporarily attaching a rubber drain hose to your transmission line that's coming from the transmission to the radiator is a great way to change out all the old dirty transmission fluid....the key is to start the engine and add the new fluid while at the same time the old fluid is being pumped out and when the old worn out dirty fluid color changes to a bright red your all done.......just check fluid levels after and add fluid accordingly.
Thank you so much!
Is equals for truck F-150 mod 2002?
Everywhere I go, and everyone I talk to says Ford doesnt make the transmission cooler line nut. But here it is...
I hope it works on my 2008 F-150!
I got 07 line is shot
So weird, I have the same truck with the same issue. However I also own a lawn care company and its called JBL lol
Great video you saved me from future migraines
You only show half the job. What about the ends at the transmission proportionate valve and the line end at the tranny?
That is a different hose.
Okay i am having major trouble. Ive went to the ford dealership but they gave me these exxct same parts. Only problem is, is mine is set up at a 4.2 not a 4.6 my bottom line of the radiator have a connector peice right in the middle and it connects to the transmission not the cooler. Both my hoses connect to the transmission.. can you assist? I have a 2002 ford f150 v8 4.6L engine Lariat.
What model year is your truck? The 2L1Z-7D273-BB quick connect fitting that goes in the radiator is listed as for 2004-2005 MY F-150's produced between 6/2003 and 11/2004. Ford doesn't list the fitting separately for the later 2005-2008 trucks and wants to sell the entire radiator.
Dennis Smith it’s a 05 truck I believe it was made in early 05 id have to look it up to know exactly.
Important information left out! 4x4? Or just 2 wheel drive because i think that the 4x4 has a auxiliary cooler so lines would be different!
This truck is a 4x4.
Do you recall individual part numbers ? I need the quick connection nut that screws into the cooler that the line snaps into
I noticed they were in individual bags
How much was the hose
Great video, exact same problems I'm having with my 2008 F150. Can you give me the part #'s for the fittings/nuts that go into the radiator and the cooler please? It looks like I will have to cut the line too as I can't get the tool in there due to the rust. Thanks.
Paul Davey I got everything from the dealer and don't currently have the part numbers. I called my local Ford dealer and gave them the vin number and they got everything for me.
So I went to the dealer and they tell me they don't sell the fitting on the radiator separately, he says you have to buy the whole radiator for $400+. No thank you. I went home, cut the line and removed the fitting, then sprayed PB Blaster on it about 15 times and took a wire brush to it. I was finally able to use the special tool and a pair of needle nose pliers and removed the rest of the line. Now my problem is the fitting at the cooler, which is rusted worse than the other one. I will check with the dealer for that part, but will try a different Ford dealer this time. (For anyone else reading this, I suggest using Lisle Special disconnect tool #39660. It is a metal scissor version of the one shown in this video and is more durable. I bought it on Amazon for about $11.) Thanks again for your help with this JB.
Paul Davey Sorry for the late response was having problems with my phone, it has been a while but I think the nut could have been 15 or 16 mm OK I'm so sorry,
pdthealth.my4life.com please give your support and share.
Appreciate the video. It would have been better if you had given us the part numbers.
I have them posted in the comments section.
Thank you
Did u use any kind of thread lock or sealer on lines connecting to radiator?
No I didn’t add anything to those. I believe the nut itself had some on it but I could be misremembering.
Darn, I was hoping to see the part number to the coupler that went on the radiator.
Gary Pitzer 7D273A is the number for that at my ford dealership. I know it’s late but hopefully it helps.
@@jbslawncaremaintenance4736 Thank you. Very helpful.
Don’t bother with the transmission disconnect tool, invest in a Dremel instead.... I’m honestly ashamed this thing was made in America, as bad as the metallurgy is... every fastener on the vehicle is corroded, and let’s not even mention the spark plug problem they engineered... I’m amazed the exhaust header is only cracked in one place... does Ford really not have any understanding of metal whatsoever? Maybe they sound peek around at a 30 year old Japanese vehicle and finally learn something...
Sir, do you still remember the part number, every autoparts keeps giving th wrong one
I need the cooling line
Do you happen to remember or could you post the part number for the connector that goes in the radiator? My local Ford dealer tells me I have to replace the whole radiator because you cant buy that connector! You have a new connector in the bag I know he's lying! Thanks in advance!
ELNino46311 let me look and see if I can find it. I bought it as a kit.
the top connector part # is 2L1Z-7D273-BB and the bottom connector is YL3Z-7D273-AA
Good video thanks
Thank you.....I'm off to get it done know.
Were did u buy the parts that goes to the radiator
@NiNi606 I went to local Ford dealer and gave them my vin and told them what I needed and they had all of the items. I couldn’t find them reliably anywhere else.
Y'all doing this way too hard...the ford factory line couplers have a plastic fitting inside remove the fitting while attached to the line, unthread It from the rad..
Use a propane torch to heat up the fitting and while hot just slide it off the line...fitting is no good anyway... upgrade to Dorman 2 oring fittings use Teflon tape re install
and how did you cut it? My line is too rusted for the tool as well.
I used mini hacksaw. That way I could control it and not hit the radiator line under it.
These lines wouldn't rust if Ford zinc plated them. They don't use treated steel so everything rots away. They've always known this but continue to build this way. All about the money. On my last Ford product. I hate them. And why do the line manufacturers make us reuse the old "quick" connect fittings? Are they too stupid to realise how hard it is to get them apart? Also, how much did it cost?
If atf line brack lose atf.than replace back.and put more atf soo is not changeing
Because my car was not speed since l put new ATF so what is the problem now
Need to replace the 98 f250 passenger side
Thanks for the info. I bought the same vehicle from a gentleman and have had this problem with trans fluid leaking, as well as the plugs. I've done the plugs myself and doing trans line soon.
Do you know about aparking brake light coming on during acceleration? It used to happen when I hit 110, then 60, now at 40km it may come on.
I want to suggest running lucas fuel system cleaner through your truck though, after cleaning it all it took me from 680km a tank to nearly 800!
Gregory Mosher thanks for the advice about the cleaner that may be something to look into. Is it the abs light or the emergency light? I had an issue with my emergency brake light coming on. Once I took the dash apart and found the instrument cluster, I took it apart, clean it, and put dielectric grease on it. After all of that it has been working fine. But I'm not sure what could be causing that, could be something to look into.
Gregory Mosher also there are 2 sensors that deal with the break light. One is the emergency break switch, and that is located just above where the the emergency break petal is located. Two is the break fluid level sensor and that is located under the break fluid revisor. Other things to look into.
Gregory Mosher im having an loud sound coming from under my truck f150 sounds like its gonna break or the tranny is gonna fall does anybody know what could be the problem? Many thanks.
I could still use the radiator quick connect part number. Did anyone find a replacement brand and part number?
After watching this video and zooming in on the part numbers and searching ford catalogs I found the part #'s. I successfully installed them on mine. the top connector part # is 2L1Z-7D273-BB and the bottom connector is YL3Z-7D273-AA
. G'mornin Partna, Give me a call, and let me know when you're ready to roll
Disconnecting with the disconnect tool was easy enough, but I can't get the bottom line to push back in. What a hassle. If someone has some trick for pushing the line in let me know.
@Davi d I used the tool to put mine back in. It actually pushed back out from where I put it in and thought it was in all the way. But I used the tool to get it past the bumb and then took the tool out and pushed it a little harder (without bending the line) and it had been great ever since.
Lucky I just did this and the bottom of my cooler snapped off
Me 2
@@fkenvil3354 what snapped off? The radiator?
How much did you pay for the parts?
whats the part number on the line
What's the part # for the fittings?
Same problem, have you found the part # yet?
@@tylernagy9251 the top connector part # is 2L1Z-7D273-BB and the bottom connector is YL3Z-7D273-AA
I find this video useless. My 3/8 disconnect (same as video) won't work because the line is rusted onto the radiator coupler. And cutting it and buying a new line isn't an option.
One thing you could do that’s worked for me in the past. Take rust penetrant and spray it let it sit then do it a couple more times I would try some heat too if possible. Then take a small flat screwdriver and work around the edge of it and it can help free where the line sits in the coupler and the tool may work better. Another thing you could do is try to take the coupler off and work it from the inside but if it’s that rusted you may not be able to get it off.
I’ve also used straight picks and they went farther into the fitting then the flat blade could.
Wow, you've slaughtered all correct nomenclature for the components in this repair. Not a hose, a hard line. Not rivets; detents or ridges. Nevetheless, you showed how to do it and I suppose you accomplish what you set out to do.
Listen not everyone went to school to learn how to become a tool and use tools. I never said I was a mechanic or knew all of that. But yes my truck is running great with 120,000 miles and been a work truck from day one. I bet it looks better than any of your personal trucks.