These engines are notorious for oil starvation mate so be careful! I bought a st150 engine a couple weeks ago with rod knock, it had been starved of oil, just something to look out for
Gutted for you mate. If you do rebuild it would be good to document how much it all costs. So then others would know what there looking at paying. Also I hear the k20 engine is a good move for these
Great video, I'll ask my mechanic to do pressure test on the cylinders.. My missus mk6 idles well, druves well but stalls...changed pump, fulter, cleaned throttle, throttle position sensor, map sensor, checked abs sensor.. Its still stalling. No error code. 😢 Been ro over 4 electricians already
Maybe as a budget option drop the sump take the pistons from under the car and stick on new rings, refit and retest. Wouldn't have to mess about with timing or new headgasket, then can keep the motor running sweet until you decide if it's time for big power
I've got the same problem with my St150. Going through a fair amount of oil but no visible signs of an oil leak. Did you get to the bottom of the issue, or you just running the car and topping it up?
Hey, nice video! Did you have any issues screwing the compression tester into the spark plug holes? I bought a similar cheap compression tester and the 14mmx1.25 attachment won't screw in and it's so frustrating - I can't figure out why. It's a 2005 fiesta zetec S.
I always feel like they’re not screwing in all the way, but then I got one stuck and took me ages to get it free. Sounds like you know your stuff with the sizing and thread pitch, I was going to suggest a thread pitch gauge and test the plugs that have come out just to check, but really spark plugs should be a standard size 🥴
Hey there, I had a Corsa that burned 1L of oil in 500km, did a engine flush hoping for a cheap fix. Did not work, now I have a 05 fiesta st150. My point is, since you are not burning that mush oil, you could try a flush to help you get to your big plans in the future.
I guess I don’t have much to loose doing the flush if I’m gonna do a rebuild or something anyway. Just worried the flush will disturb something else as for now the car runs at least. Once my MK7 is on the road I can afford to take the ST off the road and get it sorted…. And make some “improvements” 😏🐎
@@MendItModIt And the end it is your choice. Since the car is not smoking (Wich mine also did not do) the piston rings are consuming it all. Maybe a flush could lead to more oil loss, but maybe not.
Hey man, very helpful and enjoyable videos. I got a question. I got the same issue with my oil, but the compression test wil give for each cilinder the same result. You have any idea what a problem could be? Can’t find any leak.
@@zebvanderslot6710 those sound like good numbers, like I’m not a mechanic but I believe between 250-300psi is good for these engines. How much oil are you losing over what period of time?
@@MendItModIt I check the oil leven a few times. Last I had a longer ride I think around 150km and it dropped from max to almost min level. I think it’s probably also around 2-3 weeks. But it seems like when it drops its like almost every time from max to min.
Still no oil leak or something found. I did a engine flush but can’t say if that will do anything. Maybe got an idea to check first? I think I have to open the engine.
@@MendItModIt Non res with sports cat, and really comes alive when cammed. I also asked the seller on ebay to make sure he includes the silver tip back box in the package as it seems by default it's black tip when ordering full package
Seems like Mannol have removed the Ford code from their bottles and website not sure why. This is the same oil I got for my st150 and there is no ford code on the back. I don't think it makes a difference though.
Hi, just wanted to let you know. I have a lot of experience working on these engines, the margin ford gives out for burning oil in these engines is 1l in 1500 km, so unless its using more then that i'd just let it be because all these engines burn a liitle oil
@@yourimeeuwisse711 point taken and they do, if they don't have good 5/6k (miles☺️) oil changes and are allowed to warm up and down nicely. Then the abuse they get becos it's a ST is not good.
What are the actual negatives, beyond constantly need to top it up? It passed emissions so at least it's not an issue for that. Hit on performance, cause other problems when it gets worse?
Yeah performance will be reduced as rather than the force of combustion in those cylinders pushing the piston down part of it will be escaping past the piston rings. I’m guessing there will be other stuff too so hopefully I can get it sorted soon 🤞🏻
So I've gone and done one on mine.today. 200 200 200 150 but now the cars spluttering like mad and aint functioning right at all. Whats ya thoughts mate? Everything seems in place as it should
Piston ring wear a common problem on ageing zetec engines, is there any crank case pressure build up take the oil filler cap off while running the engine
@@MendItModIt I did write up a massive how to fix this issue thing before without reply. Just it dyno'd in Telford/Wales and see how bad it is and if you do fix.. how better it has become!? I flushed my engine with BG109 EPR - The oil was like water and my catch can caught of a lot blow by. Did, 500miles.. was on the min mark, Topped it up again, did 1k miles, still at the top. So Same stuff happening to me. I could have done the leak/compress test to see if the extra £1k mods where worth the hassle!
@@CdotPoppy sorry mate I don’t recall. Hoping to do some big mods in the new year so I’m going to look into starting with the best base I can, whether that means a rebuild, replacing the engine or what I’m not sure yet but the thing that puts me off flushes is they can cause issues with things like seals especially on older engines 😭
@@MendItModIt Hey MiMi, BG 109 - can help with oil burning if internal £15.99 eBay, needs oil change. No spots of oil underneath your car at work? The front crankshaft seal did look Hella dirty in that area, could be possible it's leaking. Shame you cannot see the oil pressure level, the dip stick is not the best.. PCV orange tube could be stuck open burning more oil/blow by then Needed. Compression test to see if oil control rings are letting extra oil seep in the cylinder and it's being an burnt, could be an emission check to see if higher hydrocarbons than usual, AFR dyno run to see if it's burning lean with oil vapours in the detonation. How dirty is that CCV foam in the air box, maybe get a filter or get a catch can 😅? How are the spark plugs looking? How you ever done an oil flush when changing oil, sludge in the block channels? Oil analysis with miller's, and didn't see the drain plug on the sump. Did you change the driveshaft seals when you put in the gearbox? It's probably burning/leaking on load, (seal, sump, chamber) hence you didn't find that seriously leak (which is great) the bellhouse of the gearbox is where my leak was, from the rear CS seal, was dripping from that area. BG RF7 is another shout, also high mileage oil they help the seals and then a thicker weight is an ideal but (5w40 is mainly just a top up only) there is also Lucas High Mileage Oil Stabilizer.
I second the BG109 EPR. Mine has 102k miles on it and was using a litre of oil every 500 miles with no smoke or leaks, but has been fine ever since and hasn't needed a top up yet. Worth a go at £15.99.
My car has the same problem. Burning oil at a rapid rate and blowing smoke when I put my foot down. Looking forward to seeing how you fix this ✌
Its 10 o'clock at night. And I've just been out to check my oil because of this. All seems good! Definitely gonna keep an close eye on this!
These engines are notorious for oil starvation mate so be careful! I bought a st150 engine a couple weeks ago with rod knock, it had been starved of oil, just something to look out for
Gutted for you mate. If you do rebuild it would be good to document how much it all costs. So then others would know what there looking at paying. Also I hear the k20 engine is a good move for these
Yeah I’ll be sure to document it all and show as much as I can including costs 👍🏻
@@MendItModIt legend, this channel has been very helpful for me as a new st150 owner and it seems like the content is only getting better
What a great name for a channel....I live by this moto
Mend it more than mod it but thank you 🙏🏻 😂
@@MendItModIt I feel the pain, I got front and rear sway bars waiting to go on.....and a list as long as my arm..! Haha
Great video mate. Gutted for you about your findings though. As you say though it makes for more content 👌🏼
Thanks mate. Aye it’s annoying but I’ll also learn a lot from it… every cloud 🙄😂
Great video, I'll ask my mechanic to do pressure test on the cylinders.. My missus mk6 idles well, druves well but stalls...changed pump, fulter, cleaned throttle, throttle position sensor, map sensor, checked abs sensor.. Its still stalling. No error code. 😢
Been ro over 4 electricians already
Hey bro! love the content. Did you already fix the cillinder problem or not?
No not yet mate
How did you sort this out mate?@MendItModIt
Maybe as a budget option drop the sump take the pistons from under the car and stick on new rings, refit and retest.
Wouldn't have to mess about with timing or new headgasket, then can keep the motor running sweet until you decide if it's time for big power
You know what I actually love that as a suggestion 😂 maybe not on this car but in the future I want to try it 😂😂
Great video again! Shame about the result from the tests though.
I've got the same problem with my St150.
Going through a fair amount of oil but no visible signs of an oil leak.
Did you get to the bottom of the issue, or you just running the car and topping it up?
Just topping it up for now, will be rebuilding the engine this year
Hey, nice video!
Did you have any issues screwing the compression tester into the spark plug holes?
I bought a similar cheap compression tester and the 14mmx1.25 attachment won't screw in and it's so frustrating - I can't figure out why. It's a 2005 fiesta zetec S.
I always feel like they’re not screwing in all the way, but then I got one stuck and took me ages to get it free. Sounds like you know your stuff with the sizing and thread pitch, I was going to suggest a thread pitch gauge and test the plugs that have come out just to check, but really spark plugs should be a standard size 🥴
Wwhen's the next Vid on tackling the issues raised, I'm just going down the same testing route now!
Hey there, I had a Corsa that burned 1L of oil in 500km, did a engine flush hoping for a cheap fix. Did not work, now I have a 05 fiesta st150. My point is, since you are not burning that mush oil, you could try a flush to help you get to your big plans in the future.
I guess I don’t have much to loose doing the flush if I’m gonna do a rebuild or something anyway. Just worried the flush will disturb something else as for now the car runs at least. Once my MK7 is on the road I can afford to take the ST off the road and get it sorted…. And make some “improvements” 😏🐎
@@MendItModIt And the end it is your choice. Since the car is not smoking (Wich mine also did not do) the piston rings are consuming it all. Maybe a flush could lead to more oil loss, but maybe not.
Another great video 👍
Thank you mate 🙏🏻
Hey man, very helpful and enjoyable videos. I got a question. I got the same issue with my oil, but the compression test wil give for each cilinder the same result. You have any idea what a problem could be? Can’t find any leak.
Thank you mate. That’s good that they’re even across all 4, what are the results you’re getting in psi?
@@MendItModIt I did with full gas, I got 270 psi
@@zebvanderslot6710 those sound like good numbers, like I’m not a mechanic but I believe between 250-300psi is good for these engines. How much oil are you losing over what period of time?
@@MendItModIt I check the oil leven a few times. Last I had a longer ride I think around 150km and it dropped from max to almost min level. I think it’s probably also around 2-3 weeks. But it seems like when it drops its like almost every time from max to min.
Still no oil leak or something found. I did a engine flush but can’t say if that will do anything. Maybe got an idea to check first? I think I have to open the engine.
for the st150 you should try out 5w40. some of us actually put 10w60 in their st`s. seals a bit better.
Rebuild to 200 spec 💪🏽 Cosworth cams
Definitely considering it mate 😏
@@MendItModIt Yeah man, mine is recently up there now, it's sensational. If you do, go for full Miltek exhaust, sounds soooo good
@@poosh6529 yeah plan is to get the rest of the milltek system I reckon. Is yours non-res? Sports cat?
@@MendItModIt Non res with sports cat, and really comes alive when cammed. I also asked the seller on ebay to make sure he includes the silver tip back box in the package as it seems by default it's black tip when ordering full package
Seems like Mannol have removed the Ford code from their bottles and website not sure why. This is the same oil I got for my st150 and there is no ford code on the back. I don't think it makes a difference though.
I’ve just bought a new bottle to top up with so I’ll see if it’s on that one
Hi, just wanted to let you know. I have a lot of experience working on these engines, the margin ford gives out for burning oil in these engines is 1l in 1500 km, so unless its using more then that i'd just let it be because all these engines burn a liitle oil
0.5L in 1K miles is highest as stated in the manual.
@@CdotPoppy wel 1000 miles is about 1600 km so not to far off. But the point is al these engines burn a little oil
@@yourimeeuwisse711 point taken and they do, if they don't have good 5/6k (miles☺️) oil changes and are allowed to warm up and down nicely. Then the abuse they get becos it's a ST is not good.
Out of interest how many litres/millilitres are between max and min on the dipstick?
@@MendItModIt usually about 0.5 L/ 0.7L
Not that much.
What are the actual negatives, beyond constantly need to top it up? It passed emissions so at least it's not an issue for that. Hit on performance, cause other problems when it gets worse?
Yeah performance will be reduced as rather than the force of combustion in those cylinders pushing the piston down part of it will be escaping past the piston rings. I’m guessing there will be other stuff too so hopefully I can get it sorted soon 🤞🏻
i had same issue with 2.0 volvo v50 it uses the same ST150 engine, bought a new engine for £500 quid with 70K on
So I've gone and done one on mine.today. 200 200 200 150 but now the cars spluttering like mad and aint functioning right at all. Whats ya thoughts mate? Everything seems in place as it should
Was it fine before you did the compression test?
Spark plugs installed correctly? Ht leads installed?
Piston ring wear a common problem on ageing zetec engines, is there any crank case pressure build up take the oil filler cap off while running the engine
How to I measure the pressure build up bud?
Hi do you know why I get water sitting on top of the driver side suspension leg when it rains thank you
Who does your cranking for ya?
One of the film crew normally 🎥 😂
This might be stupid idea but is it possible that the piston rings are stuck? Maybe engine flush would help?
I’m not sure, hopefully someone will be able to answer that one, knowing my luck I doubt it 😂😂 here’s hoping
@@MendItModIt I did write up a massive how to fix this issue thing before without reply.
Just it dyno'd in Telford/Wales and see how bad it is and if you do fix.. how better it has become!?
I flushed my engine with BG109 EPR - The oil was like water and my catch can caught of a lot blow by. Did, 500miles.. was on the min mark, Topped it up again, did 1k miles, still at the top. So Same stuff happening to me. I could have done the leak/compress test to see if the extra £1k mods where worth the hassle!
@@CdotPoppy sorry mate I don’t recall. Hoping to do some big mods in the new year so I’m going to look into starting with the best base I can, whether that means a rebuild, replacing the engine or what I’m not sure yet but the thing that puts me off flushes is they can cause issues with things like seals especially on older engines 😭
@@MendItModIt Hey MiMi,
BG 109 - can help with oil burning if internal £15.99 eBay, needs oil change.
No spots of oil underneath your car at work? The front crankshaft seal did look Hella dirty in that area, could be possible it's leaking. Shame you cannot see the oil pressure level, the dip stick is not the best.. PCV orange tube could be stuck open burning more oil/blow by then Needed. Compression test to see if oil control rings are letting extra oil seep in the cylinder and it's being an burnt, could be an emission check to see if higher hydrocarbons than usual, AFR dyno run to see if it's burning lean with oil vapours in the detonation. How dirty is that CCV foam in the air box, maybe get a filter or get a catch can 😅? How are the spark plugs looking? How you ever done an oil flush when changing oil, sludge in the block channels? Oil analysis with miller's, and didn't see the drain plug on the sump. Did you change the driveshaft seals when you put in the gearbox?
It's probably burning/leaking on load, (seal, sump, chamber) hence you didn't find that seriously leak (which is great) the bellhouse of the gearbox is where my leak was, from the rear CS seal, was dripping from that area.
BG RF7 is another shout, also high mileage oil they help the seals and then a thicker weight is an ideal but (5w40 is mainly just a top up only) there is also Lucas High Mileage Oil Stabilizer.
I second the BG109 EPR. Mine has 102k miles on it and was using a litre of oil every 500 miles with no smoke or leaks, but has been fine ever since and hasn't needed a top up yet. Worth a go at £15.99.
What is the Mileage?
Start burning oil about 80k miles on those engines
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