Freshening up a set 5.7L Hemi head's
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- We take you through the process of rebuilding a set of hemi heads and removing broken exh bolts.
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I haven't seen a basic old school valve job done in years. Everyone seems to think you need carbides and a serdie to get it done. Still as good today as it was 50 years ago when I was taught. I like the tig welding of the busted bolts. All I have is a mig,but it works. Great video.
Right on
Cool run through of a head rebuild. Appreciate you showing what you do and how you do it. Keep the videos coming theyre very fun to watch and helpful.
More to come!
You have top notch equipment and a clean well maintained shop. A lot of shops just don't maintain their shop. I really started out swiping floors and taking out the trash, cleaning the restroom 🚻. The clean up boy is what they called me. 6 months later no experience the owner asked me if I wanted to be a mechanic,and I thought I hit the jackpot well I did and kept my work area very clean and well maintained until I retired 3 years ago. You were tough well, don't ever let you shop get dirty! Keep up the good work 💪.
Nope, clean is king, we do our best to at least do a good clean and mop once a week, ty I appreciate you noticing!
I love when people take pride in what they do and the level of professionalism is outstanding. Amazing company like this get a lot of respect in my book. Amazing video brother keep up the great work
Our pleasure!
Old school stoning of the seats. The way I learned it way back in vocational school. Kudos to Powell Machine crew for great informative videos ! 😊😊
Just like, almost , the way I was taught 60 years ago.
Looks good.
Thanks for the videos.
Thanks for watching!
Really appreciate the content, the more things change the more they stay the same. Good to know that this method withstands the test of time.
Glad to help!
Man, when I saw how you were ratcheting them bolts out , I could tell some old timer tought you or you've been around the block many times, , I like what you do
Hi, not a machinist but ran across your channel a while back. Retired now but I also took pride in my work throughout my career and can tell by the way you explain the process, you are at the top off your profession. Excellent video.
Not even subscribed and brand new video comes up in my feed. Keep the content coming.
More to come!
Finally, old school seat grinding. I cannot tell you how great it is to see someone grind and not cut . Thanks. I started and finished grinding seats. I noticed you don’t move the valve face across the stone while grinding. Why is that? We always moved the valve to ensure the stone stayed flat. I started back in 1977 and ended my machine shop career in or around 1992 when I moved to doing automotive repairs. Thanks for your channel I really enjoy watching someone who knows what they are doin and are not arrogant about it.
We don't sweep when we grind cams,cranks,flywheels, ect, I feel like the table movement is not rigid enough (it's not Luke it has milling machine ways) so I just work my way across a fresh wheel.
I have to extract bolts as a welder on a daily basis. Our metric bolts are all black oxide which welds great. Might be an option.
Always a pleasure to watch a true craftsman at work. Your commentary explaining is tremendous to understanding. Thank You.
Thank you very much!
That head surfacer you have does a beautiful job. The old rotary broach head surfacer my father had didn't come close to that finished surface your machine does. That old machine has like 10 or 12 maybe more or less cutting bits you had to sync together and it was a pain in the butt. I always use fresh motor oil in the valve guide when installing the valves. But if the cylinder heads are not going to be put in service right away I use the same assembly lube in the tube you are using. Man I just love your videos and one of these days I'm going to show up at your shop just to watch you work and learn as much as my old brain will let me remember 😅
We really appreciate that 🙏, (I actually had a Vn broach for probably 20 year's
When, during I watch this, It motivates me to take to my old B275 Tractor and do the wheel bearings. 15 years has passed, and I might have not another 15. So, it is cleaned, blocked up with wood and rear wheels off. Time to make move! i wish there was an affordable way to get stuff to the United States, from Oz land!! cheers, all yous now!!!
You can do it!
Thanks, I will at that...@@powellmachineinc3179
I'm watching your surface and valve job and of course broken exhaust manifold bolt class. I have the same stone tool setup I learned and used for many years. 90 percent of my experience with doing that type of value seat work is with old style heavy ass cast iron heads 😂. That procedure is completely great and works every time. You are exactly right on pulling the trigger and releasing just as fast. It doesn't take much at all to touch up the seats. One thing I have noticed with the aluminum head is the seat seems to be of a higher quality harder material than the cast iron heads.i have had great luck freshening up seats on an aluminum head with a good value lash procedure. Of course this is only with something that didn't have a problem to start with other than a lot of miles. The way you hit them seats and get back off is exactly the way my father taught me. ❤ I just love watching you work Daniel.
Absolutely!, we appreciate the support!
I just want to say I appreciate you doing the video on how to do the valve jobs cam Jefferson's in treating different materials that they made out of and so on and so on. The process that you go through and all the steps that you for us drag races enthusiast A hobbyist A streetcar guys. And stuff like that will boost your business showing you how serious you are about your job and your name of your company and your name as a person. And I myself just want to say thank you and please keep up the videos. I greatly appreciated it.
We appreciate that
@@powellmachineinc3179 I just made a call to your company because I wanted to get a custom roller cam made for a 351 Windsor roller block. But didn't get an answer. But I did leave a message.
Sir, thank you for the upload! I, thoroughly enjoyed it!
Glad you enjoyed it!
quality work has a parallel: truth. Both are simple, straightforward, and easy to understand.
Get some pool acid at your hardware store. I do 1 part pool acid to 4 parts water. Put the nuts on a wire and dip for 15 min-or when they stop fizzing Neutralize in a baking soda and water solution. The zinc will be gone.
Vinegar ought to work … maybe a little slower but maybe safer ?
I just use citric acid from the supermarket baking section. A few hours in a bucket of hot water/citric acid does the trick. I even chuck whole brake calipers etc in there before rebuilding them
Nice to see engineers blue being used - gives a great visual of how the work is progressing. Nice job.
Woo Hoo some Hemi love! Now we're talking 😊
Exactly how it was done at Pete's machine, there was three stones so you could recut all angles as needed. Pete use to have to recut seats with stones on heads that came in that was previously done by a local speed and machine shop that had been done with cutters. I remember there was apiece of leather up in the drill chuck that was like a shock absorber that would help keep the stone from bouncing. Moist people might not know there are valve spring shims that can be installed under the springs to make up the clearance as needed due to metal removed from seats and valve faces. Also ends of the valve stems was cleaned up so they were smooth or flat due to wear on some of the ends. Generally of one needed a few thousands to clean up they all did. I remember Pete and Terry using a little dab of grease on the inside of each of the valve spring keepers so you would compress the springs and put the keepers on the end of the valve in the grooves and and the grease would hold the keepers and you could keep your hands away from the valve when you released the valve spring compressor. Looks like you are doing a great job, thanks for the video.
I learned to do valve jobs in high school shop class 20 something years ago. That kind of work was really enjoyable. The crap I work on now just gets a new head or an engine, nothing gets rebuilt anymore. Can't even turn brake rotors.
Yep
You do really good work, take your time and do it right. Many thanks.
The lubriplate 105 grease is what I was taught to use on valves, rocker arm fulcrums and pushrod tips and I have never had any problems. Thanks for showing the products you use to assemble engines. And stones do a fine job doing a basic job and finishing.
Great tip!
I used to have an old Sioux valve seat grinding kit my dad bought at a garage sale for $20! I can tell you that I got way more than $20 use out of it before it gave out. It’s nice seeing the old school way of doing things simply. Don’t get me wrong the Serdi is the bomb when you need to cut 3-5 angles consistently.
Had an old valve grinder and the tools for doing the valve seats giving to me. Watching your video helps a lot on how to use the stuff.
Glad it helped
@powellmachineinc3179 sorry meant to say I have a old valve grinder.
I love stones because of the speed and I like the mirror finish it leaves. I use Neway cutters and I have an old KO Lee 500 valve grinder. I use KLine valve guide liners on the old cast iron stuff. Your production vehicle valve job looks just like the ones I perform. Thanks for the video!
Hi Daniel, about 20 yrs. ago maybe 25, I did a valve job on my 1971 Ford pick-up 360 cu. in. (5.9L) for anyone who cares. I used the same equipment you just used and I was thinking I was gonna have to get another set of push rods. I checked the lifter preload and I forget the spec. but it was more than enough,and I didn't do that many valve jobs any more. My point is you have a hell of alot more equipment and know how than I do, so if I can do that good of a job, enough said, I tell these butt holes to go pound salt, show me your work or their credentials and F---OFF! You would be a great instructor Daniel Thanks!
Just found your channel in the last couple weeks. Watched several videos and always looking for new uploads. Really Good content man.
Welcome aboard!
Ok so now I understand what the guy said in a comment. He asked why you didn't move the the valve back and forth against the stone while grinding the valve seat surface. I was always taught to use the whole surface of the stone while grinding the valves. The reason explained to me was to prevent wearing wearing a spot into the grinding stone. The valve grinder I learned on is an old Black and Decker machine that is probably as old as me and still working great to this day
Your work, knowledge, and craftsmanship is impressive!!
Thank you very much!
Ya the 3/8 nuts , I always save my used rod nuts and use them , and some metric 8 mil or 5/16 . I find the tig works better than mig as you. Can bring tungsten out to get deeper on the ones busted below surface .
💯
This is like old home week. My
Dad used the same type of equipment to do valve jobs.
Kool shop haven't seen a one person place in a long time and having so much grate equipment and knowledge in a young generation keep up the great work 👍
Right on
That type of grinding Stone works. I use diamond stone. It costs a lot more but I've figured out it saves me a lot of $. The lifespan is greater.
Learning alot from these videos!
Glad to hear it!
the shops around here when cutting valves go back and forth on the stone as it cuts first time seen it done leaving left lever still while grinding
Leaving it still is more accurate IMHO
I oscillate then leave still the last second, back off the stone, move it away.
And do the tips. Non adjustable rockers will bottom the lifters. Cutting valves,seats, resurfacing heads brings everything down.
By the way, that machine requires the tips to be done before they are refaced. There is a chamfer attachment goes on the right side stone. Flat first, then chamfer . There is a taper inside the depth setter in the chuck that the champer sets in centering the valve stem. I was taught by the Souix company when our shop bought one.
Your doing a good job, thanks!
Very informative on how you do a valve job. I’ve done some home DIY valve job with hand tools which seems to take forever. Thanks for the videos! Please keep them coming. Love you watch a professional at work, you make it look so easy.
Very welcome
That head surfacer you have does a beautiful job. The old rotary broach head surfacer my father had didn't come close to that finished surface your machine does. That old machine has like 10 or 12 maybe more or less cutting bits you had to sync together and it was a pain in the butt.
Just learned a bunch! Thanks for sharing your profession. Allows me to speak intelligently to machinist.
Glad to help!!
Never seen valves done, great video thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Once again great video! You seem to have all the patience in the world…..
Ty, my wife would probably disagree with you! Lol
Very nice work. People that complain about the price of machine work. Need to watch this so they realize the time it takes to do things the right way.
💯
People always complain about the price of quality work because they have no idea the skill, tooling and time it takes.
Very nice work!
Thanks a lot!
Great job thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Commenting to bump you in the algorithm 👊👊 Love the content!
Much appreciated!
Hey you got you a boy named Sioux . I believe that is same one I learned on back in 76 . Dang I wish I lived closer . Even at 65 I am sure that I could help you and I know you that you would school me. Thank You . ALL THE BEST. Howard
I need lots of help!!
I pretty well knew that the head you were working on at the beginning of the video was the right head when I noticed which end the bolt for the ground strap was at, but it was confirmed when you showed where the broken bolts were for the exhaust manifolds. On the 5.7 Hemis, they seem to ALWAYS break in the rear. Man, having a fine stone set up sure beats spending the day lapping!
Yep, the ls's always break 1 at rear and 1 at the front
Great work with all your video's and outstanding tech. For TIG weld nuts to studs I started using stainless nuts 45yrs ago and never looked back. They seem to absorb some of the carbon and are not as brittle. 308L rod is a little softer than 316L. My seat grinder is the same as yours but made in 1946. The book that was new with it has all the fighter planes/tractors/ auto/ trucks/ ect. back to before WW1. Valve spec's have not changed much at all in the last 100yrs. Like you said, I think in another video a 3 angle seat cut is a STOCK valve job. It set's seat with and location on the valve. It's not High Perf or Race anything. The other angle's are what after that help with flow. I also agree that the stones give better results than carbide machines, but takes SKILL to do it. Those machines are great for any major work.
You are very skilled. It's very interesting to watch. Thanks for sharing.
Tyvm
Nice work Daniel.
Thanks for sharing.
Have a great weekend. 👍
Thanks, you too!
One thing I learned myself the hard way is after the valves are installed into the head I will take a block of wood and small hammer then smack every valve tip one time. If the keepers are not 100 percent in their place the wood and hammer will let the keepers jump out of place.
Iv had to weld a nut on a broken bolt 10 times be for too get one out I can't believe how easy they coming out .
Definitely
Just the way my shop teacher taught. Nicely done! ! !
That plating on those nuts, when welded lets off gases that are not good for the lungs. I soak mine in muriatic acid for 5 minutes first.
If you drill the threads out of the nut, it will save your Tungsten. It may take some more time, but you can drill a batch for the future too. You got steady hands.
Nota steady as they use to be!
Not seen the valve seat grinder since HS Auto Shop in 1969. Fifty years later and still being used.
If you want the zinc off, dip the nuts in straight muriatic acid. I get mine from the swimming pool supply section at Home Depot. If you dont know DO NOT breath the fumes ! Muriatic acid also removes galvanization and rust in just a short time. Do not use it on aluminum cuz it will dissolve it. It also eats concrete. After de rusting iron or steel you must de activate the acid with a water baking soda mixture and rinse with water. Dry immediately and coat with oil to prevent flash rusting. It will also clean copper in a few seconds and make it look like new.
I mig them at the shop but they’re always on the vehicle. The tig,from just looking at the way you’re doing it,seems significantly better than mig.
I have used a rock tumbler with abrasives to get that zinc coating off of nuts and bolts :) harbor freight has some decent ones that are inexpensive and get the job done.
This is my jam, thank you so much for putting this video out. Like I said I have a set of hellcat heads that need some work, I like what I see. We'll be in contact soon.
Yep , soaking in vinegar , muratic acid , or even citric acid , will remove the zinc coating from nuts . Though do it outside unless you like the smell of farts in the shop .
That Sioux 680 is a nice machine.
another informative video . I enjoyed doing valve jobs with a grinding set .
Nice work and heads.
Many many thanks
Great video.
Not to be a fussywussy. But I was surprized you didn't pull the broken studs before touching up the seats. Incase by the very small chance a bit of welding slag ended up marking up or leaving a little pecker in the 45. But great job! Your quality and experiance is great.
I should have... but sometimes we just forget
I was pretty upset with an engine I had built over 10 years by a "pro race engine builder". The installed spring hights were all over the place and floated the valves at like 5k. I went through and shimmed them to what they were supposed to be and it ran out better but still not what I wanted. Ended up wiping out the bottom end in short time 😢. I'll never use him again.
I didnt plan on watching an hour long video about a valve job but here we are.
New Sub, Down the road in Belton. Man, your videos are great.
Thanks for the sub!
Love the channel. All the way from Alberta Canada. You should get your boy a lease so when you weld we can see the process. Let the camera film through the lens
OUTSTANDING JOB!
I remember doing those Chevy V6 heads, some of the exhaust seats were so far off a guy would swear the valve stem had to be bent a little.
Absolutely 💯
Looking good
Thanks 👍
McMaster-Carr has welding nuts, ive bought some from them before!
You can use phosphoric acid (brand name "Ospho") to strip the zinc. You DON'T want to breathe those fumes.
Tom
Next time you try to get brocken studs out, weld a flat washer to it first then weld the nut to the washer,especialley if there broke deep inside the hole
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Allen's fasteners is where I ended up finding plain nuts with no coating, had the same problem, and they're like .03-.10 depending on size.
MSC Direct or McMaster-Carr, both have plain finished/black oxide nuts...I think the brand is Brouton but I won't swear to it although I do know it starts with a B
I'm a professional welder in a med sized fab shop and you are right to use tig, for that application tig is pretty much the only thing you would even need in an engine shop, lately we have been building a bunch of big aluminum boats like 25'-35' a 50' is coming up soon that are mostly Migged and aluminum mig is messy and inferior and nowhere as easy to make look nice, it's also very hard to be precise with it like driving a 6 penny with a 4 lb mallet. It has its place but that ain it. Your rear cap is snapped off exposing the passage that hole goes all the way through and can allow air in your gas. You should plug it with at least a screw or something or buy a new one, the stubby button type is nice makes it so easier to fit in tight spots, you just have to cut your tungsten really short but if your not dipping your tungsten constantly it's not an issue. Wow You can really hear how out of whack that first valve was before grinding it.
Those broken bolts are typically on the rear of the engine. The horrible manifold design coupled with no strain relief on the bolts makes the manifold expand more at the rear causing the bolt to break.
Definitely
Flange nuts, Grade 8 steel plain finish, 3/8"-16 - Bolt Depot
Lubriplate i have a tube great stuff. 40 years old 😊time is jetting 😮 you are a natural . STAYCOOL
Thank you!
Put one of those valve seal installers aside for me. Definitely want one
I like the lubriplate on valves . I'm going to start using lubriplate .
Make it look so easy!!
this is good videos love building motors sts industrial have non coated nuts i believe
I only use stones. I always use a bounce spring though.
I never use springs, for me the spark out makes the most accurate seat
muriatic acid works perfect to remove zinc and works great on mill scale just make sure to do it in a well ventilated area.
Go to your local Catpillar Dealer and order some 3/8 nuts for welding out bolts there not coated.
I prefer to use a 5/16 nut, and i run a burr inthe nut itself to clean out all the coating. Im not rich enough for a tig machine, but make plenty of magic eith my big Hobart mig !
Sometimes a piece of threaded 1/8” steel pipe and use a stick welder downthetubea
QUESTION . HOW DO YOU GET THE SEAT DEPTH ALL THE SAME ON A PREFORMANCE APLICATION ? THANKS
We will do a video on it
I use muriatic acid. Takes the coating off fast.
I have an old but good built grinder. I learned to move the lever back and forth to sweep the valve across the wheel while grinding. This keeps the wheel even across its face and to prevent a cup in the wheel.
What is the proper way?
Mike
That's the way I do it too. Just a little back and forth. I love watching others. I'm 65 and always learning.
I find it's best to not sweep, I dress my stone amd start on the inside and work my way out and use up the entire face of the stone
Sweeping causes ridging.
Curious what your take is on the cause of 5.7 Hemi "tick". There is tons of talk about why these Hemi's eat cams and lifters. No one seems to agree. Love to hear what you are seeing. Enjoying your content!
Ty, multiple issues, horrible lifter angle, bad rocker geometry, cam doesn't get splash lubrication well, crap lifters, lot's of issues in 1 package
You can get uncoated nuts from McMaster Carr
Very cool process balancing the crankshaft… that being said, I’m a little confused about the screw in main studs LS3 video. You said installing studs instead of the factory bolts increases bearing clearance on the mains? You’d think it’s got greater clamping force and would decrease the crankshaft to bearing clearance on the mains. I seen another video where they said it tightened the bearing clearances using studs. Can’t recall the name of the UA-camrs name.
Cheers
Hello, not at all impressed with the gen 3 Hemi because of oiling problems and that it's produced in China and designed by Mercedes Benz. Honestly the 1st gen Hemi far exceeds the 3rd gen, especially the 392, to which could easily withstand 2000 HP. But my preference is mostly my opinion. More than anything keep the videos coming bc they are very educational for all to that are interested in learning. Thank You.
Yep , I agree