Thanks to this video I was able to do my monitor swap with relative ease. Only thing I did differently was I flipped the brackets and put foam tape directly on. The difference is night and day, appreciate you doing this, cheers!
Nice to see this which was a little deeper than Johns. I actually had no issue taking off the bottom bezel like he did but my biggest recommendation is to just flip the brackets rather than add the wood. Also remove the left rail. It is an absolutely perfect fit.
With thanks to this video,I just finished the swap and everything is working great. My only suggestion off hand would be to use 1/4" wide foam tape (1/2" is abit wide) with some duct tape to hold in place. The new monitor with the the new upgraded haptics kit has really made a huge difference. Thanks again for the video.👍
Great video. Followed this guide and completed my install. Took a bit longer than I thought, but I'm happy with the result. I investigated taking the bottom piece of the monitor off as Jersey Johnny mentioned in his video, but it was a no-go. On my monitor, I would have had to crack the plastic casing to get that off. The top shell of the case is all one piece and there is no way to just pop off the bottom without breaking. Maybe my model is slightly different than his, even though it is the same part number. Once I saw that, I didn't want to go thru breaking it. Only difference from your guide is that I ended up shaving down the bezel bottom on the left side so it sits flat on the lower "fat" section of the monitor. The right side clears the monitor as that is the "skinny" part of the casing and it has clearance. I think I had my monitor sitting a bit higher than you ended up with. I used some wood that I already had available, and it was a bit thicker. Nonetheless, it's all good.
Yeah I rewatched his video and it looks like his trim was cut since the edge was not clean. I'm glad it worked out well, and that you're happy with the results! Do you notice a difference in responsiveness and overall gameplay?
@@josephromano6168 Yeah, it's night and day. I set VPX to cap at 165FPS and turned GSync on in the monitor. Lag is undetectable. The colors are wonderful too now. Such a huge upgrade. Tomorrow I install the BuyStuff haptics kit. This is great fun.
@@tshock22 I just did this upgrade as well. Would you mind sharing your VPX/Nvidia graphics setttings? We're using a Ryzen 7, NVIDIA 3070 and my previous setttings which were working perfect for the stock monitor are not working with this setup. My PUP's are stuttering etc. FX3 looks amazing, but struggling with VPX currently.
@@botkinracing Sure. Since my original post I have done much tweaking and found my best setup. I am running the monitor at 120hz. You need to run the monitor at a refresh rate that you can consistently max out with all of the VPX tables you wish to play. For me, 165hz was a bit high for a few of the tables in my situation. I'm running an Nvidia 1080TI, so it isn't a slouch. If you have the monitor at 165hz but average only 155FPS, you will notice stuttering in VPX when you are so focused on watching the ball. It is what it is. 120hz running at 120hz is buttery smooth, and is an easier target to hit across the current VPX tables I like to play. I also don't utilize GSync. GSync is a great technology to help boost frames and introduce 'smoothness' when your FPS cannot hit your max refresh rate. However, in our case, we want to set our refresh rate to a number that we can always max our in VPX. If you want to try out some tests, download the official 'G-Sync Pendulum' demo. You can test various GSync scenarios there. Your mileage may vary, but I find 120hz, GSync off, VSync On was the sweet spot for me. Now, I don't believe having GSync on introduces any problems. It may help reduce lag. I just don't find it to be helpful specifically to VPX in my particular setup. If you are having troublesome stuttering, turning it off is something to at least try. Here are the key settings that I put into Nvidia control panel: Resolution - 120hz, 2560x1440 Under Manage 3d Settings: Max Frame Rate - 120fps (set this to your target refresh rate) Low Latency Mode - Ultra (helps with latency) Triple Buffering - Off (helps with latency) Vertical Sync - On In VPX: FPS Limiter/VSync: 0 Maximum PreRendered Frames: 0 Force Exclusive Fullscreen Mode: True Brute Force 4x SSAA: False (this is a huge performance hog. YMMV) I find that running VPX in "Exclusive Fullscreen Mode: True" gets me an additional 10-15% performance improvement. This is a big help in games that my system struggles a bit with (Tron Legacy VPW version, Stern Ghostbusters are two big ones). Here is one thing I figured out -- the default setup for the popper frontend always launches VPX in 'desktop' mode and not exclusive fullscreen. The reason it does this is that the video playback and screen transitions are much smoother when running in desktop mode. In fullscreen there is some flickering and the launch videos will be interrupted. For almost all of the games, this is not a problem as 120hz in desktop mode is easily achievable. For a few tables, however, starting in exclusive fullscreen is beneficial. For these specific tables, I've modified my popper VPX launch script to run in exclusive fullscreen for them only, and desktop mode for all others. This can be done in the Popper Setup -> Emulators -> Launch Setup script. Finally.....for testing tables (especially when adding new ones). I always launch the table directly from the VPX interface and immediately press F11. This brings up the FPS numbers. My goal is to keep the table at 118+ at all times. If I notice a table cannot hit these numbers, a couple of things can be done. First is to identify if launching in Fullscreen exclusive vs desktop mode can make up the difference. If so, the solution to that was already mentioned. Second is that you can go to the 'performance' pane in VPX for that particular table and select less aggressive settings. Turn all extra effects off, re-save the table, and test again. Hopefully some of this information helps. As always, every hardware setup is different so your mileage may vary.
@@tshock22 Huge thanks for the response. I will give these settings a try. Are you in any of the FB groups for virtual pinball? May be an easier way to chat. Thanks!
This difference in quality from the original to the new monitor is incredible. A tip that isn't mentioned in the video. If you go to cut down the bezel track, trace around the end sections on the cab, so you don't need to work about where it was angle-wise.
@@josephromano6168 welp....something happened to my system. I heard a small pop and now I got no power coming from the system and can't use vibs / back box as it now. This sucks. Not sure what happened. I was very careful with all the wiring and stuff. I had backbox and vibs working fine for about 10 min ....now nothing.... no clue what happened. Guess I'm going to be gutting this thing sooner than I expected.
Yea I hate the monitor that is included. I use the GFORCE color settings to jack with the gamma, colors, etc. You can boost the reds a ton to make it feel like it has some reds, but then my LG monitor on my desk running the same video is night and day difference in color and brightness levels and makes me want to throw the original screen in the trash lol. Thanks for showing I will probably grab one of these soon as it really is a necessary evil.
You're welcome! Let me know if you have any questions. I'll do a full gut in the winter once I get more time. I may come up with a complete ball launcher mechanism for the complete tearout
i checked the original model number - its a TN panel originally which is known for being washed out. odd for them to include a screen known for image angle issues on a product you look at it from the side angle usually
what do you plug the monitor into for hdmi? the stock had a non-standard connector. did you go all pc and can’t use atgames software anymore? does the monitor video in connect to the pc directly or thru vibs? i can’t figure that out.
Hi, Joseph. The main video screen didn't work right out of the box. The video on the back worked but not the main screen. I didn't open it until after the 30 day warranty passed. Any idea what I could try? Thanks so much.
The stock screen? You could check the video cable connections to the main PCB. If you don't want to do a full upgrade like in this video you can have my stock screen if you're local
Do you have a better picture of what was hooked up from the old screen? What was that antennae like thing next to the main connector? What were the two black/red pairs of cables hooked up to that come out of/go into the bottom screen?
Does this allow you keep using the ALP interface or does it basically make the machine inside obsolete and everything is through the computer? Everything i've read says once you switch the monitor you can no longer use anything that came stock.
Hi Joseph. Thanks for the Video. Did you find out where the 2 wire cable you accidentally ripped off was plugged into before? i just upgraded my cab with SSF and still want to use my stock screen but the cable got unplugged aswell cant find the plug it belongs to :D
So while you can't play the original tables you still need the ALP to turn on "OTG" mode right? I want to upgrade my monitor but am not fully sold on never using the stock tables ever again.
@@josephromano6168 no, they are Atgames tables only. But hell, found the monitor on sale for 219 so bought it last night. I have an Atgames Ultimate with the pinball buttons so I guess I'll play those there. Can't wait to have a better quality play field!
@@josephromano6168 One question Joseph, the VIBS board isn't required with this setup now right? I'll run that HDMI from my PC directly into the new monitor? Thanks for this video, much better than the other one out there.
Hi. Thanks for the info. I have the same replacement monitor as you. I'm going to do the install tomorrow. I'm leaning toward not removing the case as well. These monitors have the round raised ring in the back, and I'm concerned that if I did remove the case it would not fit like the monitors with the flatter back. More specifically, I don't think the original 2 black brackets across the back of the stock monitor in the case would fit. How do you ensure the monitor is always on? If it did need to be powered on, the button is now hidden. Is there a config setting somewhere that I need to toggle to make it always power on when it gets a signal?
The monitor will automatically turn on when power is applied. So if you tie everything to a central power strip, then every time you turn it on to play the monitor will come on as well
I did the same and the clarity and colors are almost night and day. The only issue is the OTG controls will not work unless something is connected to the HDMI port. I had to connect a firestick to mine so it saw a video signal.
Did the firestick need power also? Do you think a 90 degree hdmi adaptor (which nothing attached) would work? Or you think it needs a power signal. Thanks
@@joem7895 yea the firestick needs power. I tried everything including an HDMI dummy plug. Nothing worked but the firestick. The ALP wants to see a video signal to switch to OTG.
Yes! I still plug in an HDMI & USB to the ALP like normal, but I don't use it as a display. I set the new screen as display 1, the VIBS board as display 2, and I make the ALP stock HDMI as display 3. I set the audio as the alp HDMI (display 3). It lets me maintain audio and controls until I do a full gut in the winter.
First off this is amazing. I’ve almost completed receiving all new wires to the IPaC2 device I’ll be using and im ready for monitor fitment. Questions: I see a lot of folks saying flip the braces instead of adding wood, does that allow for foam? Also, did you cut the right plastic piece or just the left? Do I have to do that? Super appreciate everyone’s help.
Hey Justin! You can flip the brace and I believe you can use a smaller foam for under the monitor to prevent movement. I kept mine as-is because I like the foam under and on top to prevent damage or movement. I trimmed both LH & RH trim brackets because I wanted the top trim to secure to the cabinet rather than pressing the weight of the glass on the monitor. It was super easy to do.
@@josephromano6168 OK so I started today. Flipped the wooden brackets, put a small piece of foam but the frame doesn't seem to fit now. Do I have to cut up the frame in order to place it on top of the monitor?
@@JustinK4 I had to. I originally flipped the braces without cutting the frame but it wouldn't fit. I ended up doing the method in the video which required cutting the frame
Hi Joseph, looking to do this based on your success. Did you ever figure out why your system died? Do you still recommend the swap for others to do or would you now advise against it base what you have learned?
Hi Joseph. I've been considering this for months, as I only us OTG, don't like any of the stock AtGames tables. I guess I have a few questions: 1. Do I just unhook the old monitor and put in a new 2k/144 or 165hz monitor and hook the display port cable to my pc and it's gonna play the same as I've been using? 2. Do I have to mess around with an encoder to get this to work? I think that's my biggest fear... Thanks man I've looked and looked and always come back to this video as it's the best tutorial. I think I'm close to pulling the swap.
Thank you for the compliment! 1. Correct, you unhook the OEM screen and cables then place the new screen in the cabinet with it hooked directly to your PC. 2. No you do not have to use an encoder! Just the standard ALP OTG Joy2Key emulator. I simply kept the HDMI and USB hook up to the top cabinet plate as a way to use the existing ALP controller and speakers via OTG. I also have the VIBS board so that HDMI will continue to be used for the backglass video. After the swap I press the following to enable OTG (because now you can't see the ALP menu)... Press the top OTG button > press "up" on the D pad once > press the "start" button on the coin door to switch to OTG mode. This will help save some money if you're fine with the stock audio system, and the OTG controls are nearly instant now for me.
@@josephromano6168 I am excited! That's awesome thank you. I'm doing that currently too with the vibs and a tablet for a dmd, using mainly vpx. Just was worried having to fiddle with encoders.
I ordered the monitor tonight. I also ordered some of that foam you have. I installed the haptics kit from buystuff last week and with this update I'm just needing the deluxe backbox to be finished. Thanks again for helping me ease my concerns! @@josephromano6168
@@josephromano6168 I have a problem where mine won't switch after swapping out the screen. Tried to swap back and i can't figure out what is missing that the old screen won't show any picture any longer. Help!?
So this is using the VIBS and not completely bypassing the original boards? So does the original games (not that I would ever use them) work on it? I want to take my old i7 and put it in a case to do the same, and really like the way you did this. Oh, also, will the original monitor work with a chromecast or firestick? Would be a good extra TV to mount around my bar.
1) Yes I'm still using the VIBS. I still plug in an HDMI & USB to the ALP like normal, but I don't use it as a display. I set the new screen as display 1, the VIBS board as display 2, and I make the ALP stock HDMI as display 3. I set the audio as the alp HDMI (display 3). It lets me maintain audio and controls until I do a full gut in the winter. 2) No the original games do not work since you can't send a feed from the stock ALP to the new monitor. 3) what GPU do you have? I'd definitely recommend a GTX 1050 TI at the bare minimum, but a 1660 Super or higher will allow you to run the max refresh rate without issues. An i7 with 8GB of RAM will do. 4) No it would not since it does not use an HDMI input. It uses LVDS and an external power source (12V?). It's pretty much useless. I may donate it to a repair shop or high school to try to recycle it.
@@josephromano6168 thanks for taking the time to elaborate on that. I assume the better pictures quality is well worth the trade off of losing the ALP games. I currently am running a 970, but I'm looking to get something a little better. It does three screens pinball great, but I suspect once I hit 4k that will change. I'll probably wait to see if Costco does a sale on this screen and then grab one.
@@josephromano6168 How did you set the main monitor to show PC and not alp at launch? I would love to do this so I don't have to use the button to switch.
@@ProtectGotham The main (aftermarket) screen is directly connected connected to the PC. The backglass uses the VIBS board. I currently have tape permanently pushing the button, but will order a NC replacement leaf switch to default to the PC. Pressing the button with the NC switch will switch the backglass to the ALP
Correct, I still connect the OTG HDMI for audio, and the USB for controls. To enable OTG I press the OTG button by the HDMI/USB, then up on the D-pad, then the start button on the coin door. Lol
Hi again. I did the whole swap tonight and played for an hour and had the best hour ever. Came back a few hours later and I don't have my controls working anymore. Ever had this? I know they work cuz I blind switched to otg and they must work to do that, but in VPX they just don't work now. Spent the last hour changing 3 cables and multiple times restarting both my pc and legends and just it's like I don't have flippers or buttons now? Worked fine 3 hours ago. I'm totally stumped! @@josephromano6168
Absolutely, as long as the packaging is similar. I went with the 1440p in higher refresh rate because I didn't want the ball to lag like it was prior. The alternative for me, budget wise, was 4K 60 Hz. Doing 4K and 165 Hertz would be amazing! My graphics card would definitely sweat lol
Yeah it's absolutely fine without any issues! I currently have the back door open though. When I finish the surround sound I'll probably mount a 140 or 200MM Noctua fan on the door for a constant supply of cold air.
I'm thinking about doing this mod, however I don't want to lose access to the stock tables I've purchased. Are you able to use the new monitor with the stock Legends software?
@@josephromano6168 thanks so much for your video! Much appreciated. My only change was I was able to center the monitor a little more so the bezel covered the plastic in the screen. It looks amazing
@@josephromano6168 I also drilled a small hole from the outside to access the on/off button. Barely noticeable, but if I turn the power off or have an outage, I won’t have to mess with opening the cabinet
@@richfalt9695 Absolutely, it's night and day having the 140hz monitor directly connected to the PC. Even using OTG for controls still feels almost instant. It's made playing so much more pleasant
Honestly the ALP gutting was put on hold for a few months. I had to finish hand laying a 400sqft paver patio. And trench a EV charger before the ground froze up. I'm hoping to get back started this December!
I’m thinking, get a backbox 2.0 first, then get the Cleveland kit that includes 10 solenoids and the plunger and monitor swap at the same time. I really want to do this as a project.
@@PixelatedTravelR That's probably the better option.. it'd be easier to install the solenoids while it's completely gutted. Depending on the power supply included with the Cleveland kit, you may be able to get some DAMGOO amps for your speakers and save yourself some money.
Watched the video - read every comment: and I appreciate the video, but I don't think I trust myself to pull this off so I'll have to remain w/the stock ALP monitor. :(
@@josephromano6168 Thanks! Any issues since the install? Was it a pretty straight forward swap? Btw., that new screen os 1000% better than the original The original was so dull and not being able to have gsync or freesync sucked. I gotta do this soon!
@@gmee123 No issues since the swap. it was pretty easy to do.. especially once I had a plan in place lol you definitely won't regret it! It makes it more enjoyable
@@josephromano6168 So by swapping out the screen, you're effectively unable to use the stock machine correct? You pretty much have to commit to gutting it? How did you deal with the back box screens?
@@gmee123 Kind of.. you can't use the stock tables. I still have the ALP computer, power supply, and VIBS running. I'm using OTG mode for audio and controls for now until I eventually completely gut it. The lag with OTG controls and the new monitor is next to nothing
Nope, I never have to log in. I just press the OTG button near the HDMI/USB, then UP on the D-pad, then the START button on the coin door to enable OTG for audio/controls
I still plug in an HDMI & USB to the ALP like normal, but I don't use it as a display. I set the new screen as display 1, the VIBS board as display 2, and I make the ALP stock HDMI as display 3. I set the audio as the alp HDMI (display 3). It lets me maintain audio and controls until I do a full gut in the winter.
@@josephromano6168 GREAT VIDEO, just ordered my monitor. one thing though, you can use the exciters from the stock setup? I am using a PC connected to mine now and get no exciters at all. even with the audio going through the HDMI to the stock monitor. I mean when using VPX or Futrure Pinball. Is that normal?
The monitor is plugged into a power strip with everything else. I just flip the power strip switch when I'm done playing. Flipping the switch on would turn everything back on. Once I take down my Christmas decorations I'll utilize one of the Kasa plugs to automate the process a little bit better.
Thanks to this video I was able to do my monitor swap with relative ease. Only thing I did differently was I flipped the brackets and put foam tape directly on. The difference is night and day, appreciate you doing this, cheers!
Nice to see this which was a little deeper than Johns. I actually had no issue taking off the bottom bezel like he did but my biggest recommendation is to just flip the brackets rather than add the wood. Also remove the left rail. It is an absolutely perfect fit.
With thanks to this video,I just finished the swap and everything is working great. My only suggestion off hand would be to use 1/4" wide foam tape (1/2" is abit wide) with some duct tape to hold in place. The new monitor with the the new upgraded haptics kit has really made a huge difference. Thanks again for the video.👍
Great video. Followed this guide and completed my install. Took a bit longer than I thought, but I'm happy with the result. I investigated taking the bottom piece of the monitor off as Jersey Johnny mentioned in his video, but it was a no-go. On my monitor, I would have had to crack the plastic casing to get that off. The top shell of the case is all one piece and there is no way to just pop off the bottom without breaking. Maybe my model is slightly different than his, even though it is the same part number. Once I saw that, I didn't want to go thru breaking it.
Only difference from your guide is that I ended up shaving down the bezel bottom on the left side so it sits flat on the lower "fat" section of the monitor. The right side clears the monitor as that is the "skinny" part of the casing and it has clearance. I think I had my monitor sitting a bit higher than you ended up with. I used some wood that I already had available, and it was a bit thicker. Nonetheless, it's all good.
Yeah I rewatched his video and it looks like his trim was cut since the edge was not clean.
I'm glad it worked out well, and that you're happy with the results! Do you notice a difference in responsiveness and overall gameplay?
@@josephromano6168 Yeah, it's night and day. I set VPX to cap at 165FPS and turned GSync on in the monitor. Lag is undetectable. The colors are wonderful too now. Such a huge upgrade. Tomorrow I install the BuyStuff haptics kit. This is great fun.
@@tshock22 I just did this upgrade as well. Would you mind sharing your VPX/Nvidia graphics setttings? We're using a Ryzen 7, NVIDIA 3070 and my previous setttings which were working perfect for the stock monitor are not working with this setup. My PUP's are stuttering etc. FX3 looks amazing, but struggling with VPX currently.
@@botkinracing Sure. Since my original post I have done much tweaking and found my best setup. I am running the monitor at 120hz. You need to run the monitor at a refresh rate that you can consistently max out with all of the VPX tables you wish to play. For me, 165hz was a bit high for a few of the tables in my situation. I'm running an Nvidia 1080TI, so it isn't a slouch. If you have the monitor at 165hz but average only 155FPS, you will notice stuttering in VPX when you are so focused on watching the ball. It is what it is. 120hz running at 120hz is buttery smooth, and is an easier target to hit across the current VPX tables I like to play. I also don't utilize GSync. GSync is a great technology to help boost frames and introduce 'smoothness' when your FPS cannot hit your max refresh rate. However, in our case, we want to set our refresh rate to a number that we can always max our in VPX. If you want to try out some tests, download the official 'G-Sync Pendulum' demo. You can test various GSync scenarios there. Your mileage may vary, but I find 120hz, GSync off, VSync On was the sweet spot for me. Now, I don't believe having GSync on introduces any problems. It may help reduce lag. I just don't find it to be helpful specifically to VPX in my particular setup. If you are having troublesome stuttering, turning it off is something to at least try.
Here are the key settings that I put into Nvidia control panel:
Resolution - 120hz, 2560x1440
Under Manage 3d Settings:
Max Frame Rate - 120fps (set this to your target refresh rate)
Low Latency Mode - Ultra (helps with latency)
Triple Buffering - Off (helps with latency)
Vertical Sync - On
In VPX:
FPS Limiter/VSync: 0
Maximum PreRendered Frames: 0
Force Exclusive Fullscreen Mode: True
Brute Force 4x SSAA: False (this is a huge performance hog. YMMV)
I find that running VPX in "Exclusive Fullscreen Mode: True" gets me an additional 10-15% performance improvement. This is a big help in games that my system struggles a bit with (Tron Legacy VPW version, Stern Ghostbusters are two big ones). Here is one thing I figured out -- the default setup for the popper frontend always launches VPX in 'desktop' mode and not exclusive fullscreen. The reason it does this is that the video playback and screen transitions are much smoother when running in desktop mode. In fullscreen there is some flickering and the launch videos will be interrupted. For almost all of the games, this is not a problem as 120hz in desktop mode is easily achievable. For a few tables, however, starting in exclusive fullscreen is beneficial. For these specific tables, I've modified my popper VPX launch script to run in exclusive fullscreen for them only, and desktop mode for all others. This can be done in the Popper Setup -> Emulators -> Launch Setup script.
Finally.....for testing tables (especially when adding new ones). I always launch the table directly from the VPX interface and immediately press F11. This brings up the FPS numbers. My goal is to keep the table at 118+ at all times. If I notice a table cannot hit these numbers, a couple of things can be done. First is to identify if launching in Fullscreen exclusive vs desktop mode can make up the difference. If so, the solution to that was already mentioned. Second is that you can go to the 'performance' pane in VPX for that particular table and select less aggressive settings. Turn all extra effects off, re-save the table, and test again.
Hopefully some of this information helps. As always, every hardware setup is different so your mileage may vary.
@@tshock22 Huge thanks for the response. I will give these settings a try. Are you in any of the FB groups for virtual pinball? May be an easier way to chat. Thanks!
This difference in quality from the original to the new monitor is incredible. A tip that isn't mentioned in the video. If you go to cut down the bezel track, trace around the end sections on the cab, so you don't need to work about where it was angle-wise.
Great tip! A lot better than balancing a leveler on the track 😅
@@josephromano6168 welp....something happened to my system. I heard a small pop and now I got no power coming from the system and can't use vibs / back box as it now. This sucks. Not sure what happened. I was very careful with all the wiring and stuff. I had backbox and vibs working fine for about 10 min ....now nothing.... no clue what happened. Guess I'm going to be gutting this thing sooner than I expected.
@@gmee123 Were all of the connections to the OEM screen disconnected from the PSU and main board?
Yea I hate the monitor that is included. I use the GFORCE color settings to jack with the gamma, colors, etc. You can boost the reds a ton to make it feel like it has some reds, but then my LG monitor on my desk running the same video is night and day difference in color and brightness levels and makes me want to throw the original screen in the trash lol. Thanks for showing I will probably grab one of these soon as it really is a necessary evil.
@@lorenmorgan1931 Swap that bitch out ....and never look back lol
This was perfectly timed! I was just exploring the option to change out that washed out sucky monitor that came with the machine Thanks!
You're welcome! Let me know if you have any questions. I'll do a full gut in the winter once I get more time. I may come up with a complete ball launcher mechanism for the complete tearout
i checked the original model number - its a TN panel originally which is known for being washed out. odd for them to include a screen known for image angle issues on a product you look at it from the side angle usually
what do you plug the monitor into for hdmi? the stock had a non-standard connector. did you go all pc and can’t use atgames software anymore? does the monitor video in connect to the pc directly or thru vibs? i can’t figure that out.
Hi, Joseph. The main video screen didn't work right out of the box. The video on the back worked but not the main screen. I didn't open it until after the 30 day warranty passed. Any idea what I could try? Thanks so much.
The stock screen? You could check the video cable connections to the main PCB. If you don't want to do a full upgrade like in this video you can have my stock screen if you're local
Do you have a better picture of what was hooked up from the old screen? What was that antennae like thing next to the main connector? What were the two black/red pairs of cables hooked up to that come out of/go into the bottom screen?
Does this allow you keep using the ALP interface or does it basically make the machine inside obsolete and everything is through the computer? Everything i've read says once you switch the monitor you can no longer use anything that came stock.
Correct, you can no longer use the stock tables. But a lot of the stock tables are free through platforms like VPX.
Hi Joseph. Thanks for the Video. Did you find out where the 2 wire cable you accidentally ripped off was plugged into before? i just upgraded my cab with SSF and still want to use my stock screen but the cable got unplugged aswell cant find the plug it belongs to :D
It looked like it was the LCD backlit power. From what I remember there were two solder joints in one of the corners
So while you can't play the original tables you still need the ALP to turn on "OTG" mode right? I want to upgrade my monitor but am not fully sold on never using the stock tables ever again.
That is correct. But I'd suggest browsing the VPX table library. I'm willing to bet most of the ALP tables have been redone in VPX.
@@josephromano6168 I've got about 250 VPX tables installed already. Still like the stock tables like the Dr Sue's and Taito ones.
@@johngannonVPX doesn't have those two?
@@josephromano6168 no, they are Atgames tables only. But hell, found the monitor on sale for 219 so bought it last night. I have an Atgames Ultimate with the pinball buttons so I guess I'll play those there. Can't wait to have a better quality play field!
@@josephromano6168 One question Joseph, the VIBS board isn't required with this setup now right? I'll run that HDMI from my PC directly into the new monitor? Thanks for this video, much better than the other one out there.
Hi. Thanks for the info. I have the same replacement monitor as you. I'm going to do the install tomorrow. I'm leaning toward not removing the case as well. These monitors have the round raised ring in the back, and I'm concerned that if I did remove the case it would not fit like the monitors with the flatter back. More specifically, I don't think the original 2 black brackets across the back of the stock monitor in the case would fit. How do you ensure the monitor is always on? If it did need to be powered on, the button is now hidden. Is there a config setting somewhere that I need to toggle to make it always power on when it gets a signal?
The monitor will automatically turn on when power is applied. So if you tie everything to a central power strip, then every time you turn it on to play the monitor will come on as well
@@josephromano6168 excellent. Thanks! Going to follow your video and install tonight.
That's awesome, thanks!
You're welcome! It's definitely a more affordable option compared to the other LG/Samsung IPS monitors VPIN members have suggested in the past.
I did the same and the clarity and colors are almost night and day. The only issue is the OTG controls will not work unless something is connected to the HDMI port. I had to connect a firestick to mine so it saw a video signal.
Did the firestick need power also? Do you think a 90 degree hdmi adaptor (which nothing attached) would work? Or you think it needs a power signal. Thanks
@@joem7895 yea the firestick needs power. I tried everything including an HDMI dummy plug. Nothing worked but the firestick. The ALP wants to see a video signal to switch to OTG.
@@cknorris3644 Well that sucks. This is the first I've heard about this, good info. I wonder if you could just connect another hdmi from the pc?
@@joem7895 Yes that works too. Some people use the HDMI to run the sound through the ALP from the PC.
Yes, it's always been my understanding that if you switch out the screen you will loose access , signal to your ALP games.
Hi , sorry if already asked, can this be done for stock machine use
Or only for otg with a pc ?
Only for OTG or a full machine gutting
@@josephromano6168 thank you sir for responding
Congrats and nice job btw !!
;)
@@gagcar Thank you!
Does the stock Haptics feedback still work after the monitor swap?
Yes! I still plug in an HDMI & USB to the ALP like normal, but I don't use it as a display. I set the new screen as display 1, the VIBS board as display 2, and I make the ALP stock HDMI as display 3. I set the audio as the alp HDMI (display 3). It lets me maintain audio and controls until I do a full gut in the winter.
First off this is amazing. I’ve almost completed receiving all new wires to the IPaC2 device I’ll be using and im ready for monitor fitment.
Questions: I see a lot of folks saying flip the braces instead of adding wood, does that allow for foam? Also, did you cut the right plastic piece or just the left? Do I have to do that? Super appreciate everyone’s help.
Hey Justin! You can flip the brace and I believe you can use a smaller foam for under the monitor to prevent movement. I kept mine as-is because I like the foam under and on top to prevent damage or movement. I trimmed both LH & RH trim brackets because I wanted the top trim to secure to the cabinet rather than pressing the weight of the glass on the monitor. It was super easy to do.
@@josephromano6168 OK so I started today. Flipped the wooden brackets, put a small piece of foam but the frame doesn't seem to fit now. Do I have to cut up the frame in order to place it on top of the monitor?
@@JustinK4 I had to. I originally flipped the braces without cutting the frame but it wouldn't fit. I ended up doing the method in the video which required cutting the frame
@@josephromano6168 So you just filed down the little feet on the bottom or..?
@@JustinK4 I trimmed the middle sections of the bracket that the top screen trim screws to so that the monitor doesn't hit it.
i heard VA panels have bad viewing angles. the model you installed is VA, did you notice viewing angle issues?
No, I don't have any viewing angle issues. Even viewing out from the side when I let my buddies play it!
How are you interfacing the LVDS to the Monitor?
I am not. I never used the stock tables so I'm 100% OTG
Hi Joseph, looking to do this based on your success. Did you ever figure out why your system died? Do you still recommend the swap for others to do or would you now advise against it base what you have learned?
My system didn't die. It's still going strong. I'd 100% recommend the swap if you don't play the stock tables
Hi Joseph. I've been considering this for months, as I only us OTG, don't like any of the stock AtGames tables. I guess I have a few questions:
1. Do I just unhook the old monitor and put in a new 2k/144 or 165hz monitor and hook the display port cable to my pc and it's gonna play the same as I've been using?
2. Do I have to mess around with an encoder to get this to work? I think that's my biggest fear...
Thanks man I've looked and looked and always come back to this video as it's the best tutorial. I think I'm close to pulling the swap.
Thank you for the compliment!
1. Correct, you unhook the OEM screen and cables then place the new screen in the cabinet with it hooked directly to your PC.
2. No you do not have to use an encoder! Just the standard ALP OTG Joy2Key emulator. I simply kept the HDMI and USB hook up to the top cabinet plate as a way to use the existing ALP controller and speakers via OTG. I also have the VIBS board so that HDMI will continue to be used for the backglass video. After the swap I press the following to enable OTG (because now you can't see the ALP menu)...
Press the top OTG button > press "up" on the D pad once > press the "start" button on the coin door to switch to OTG mode.
This will help save some money if you're fine with the stock audio system, and the OTG controls are nearly instant now for me.
@@josephromano6168 I am excited! That's awesome thank you. I'm doing that currently too with the vibs and a tablet for a dmd, using mainly vpx. Just was worried having to fiddle with encoders.
@@sinizin You'll definitely appreciate the HDR look of VPX after the switch. The stock screen looks super washed out compared to the new one!
I ordered the monitor tonight. I also ordered some of that foam you have. I installed the haptics kit from buystuff last week and with this update I'm just needing the deluxe backbox to be finished. Thanks again for helping me ease my concerns!
@@josephromano6168
@@josephromano6168 I have a problem where mine won't switch after swapping out the screen. Tried to swap back and i can't figure out what is missing that the old screen won't show any picture any longer. Help!?
So this is using the VIBS and not completely bypassing the original boards? So does the original games (not that I would ever use them) work on it? I want to take my old i7 and put it in a case to do the same, and really like the way you did this. Oh, also, will the original monitor work with a chromecast or firestick? Would be a good extra TV to mount around my bar.
1) Yes I'm still using the VIBS. I still plug in an HDMI & USB to the ALP like normal, but I don't use it as a display. I set the new screen as display 1, the VIBS board as display 2, and I make the ALP stock HDMI as display 3. I set the audio as the alp HDMI (display 3). It lets me maintain audio and controls until I do a full gut in the winter.
2) No the original games do not work since you can't send a feed from the stock ALP to the new monitor.
3) what GPU do you have? I'd definitely recommend a GTX 1050 TI at the bare minimum, but a 1660 Super or higher will allow you to run the max refresh rate without issues. An i7 with 8GB of RAM will do.
4) No it would not since it does not use an HDMI input. It uses LVDS and an external power source (12V?). It's pretty much useless. I may donate it to a repair shop or high school to try to recycle it.
@@josephromano6168 thanks for taking the time to elaborate on that. I assume the better pictures quality is well worth the trade off of losing the ALP games.
I currently am running a 970, but I'm looking to get something a little better. It does three screens pinball great, but I suspect once I hit 4k that will change. I'll probably wait to see if Costco does a sale on this screen and then grab one.
@@josephromano6168 How did you set the main monitor to show PC and not alp at launch? I would love to do this so I don't have to use the button to switch.
@@ProtectGotham The main (aftermarket) screen is directly connected connected to the PC. The backglass uses the VIBS board. I currently have tape permanently pushing the button, but will order a NC replacement leaf switch to default to the PC. Pressing the button with the NC switch will switch the backglass to the ALP
Excellent! Thanks!
Do the OTG controls still work? How do you switch to OTG mode? Same as before but without visual confirmation?
Correct, I still connect the OTG HDMI for audio, and the USB for controls. To enable OTG I press the OTG button by the HDMI/USB, then up on the D-pad, then the start button on the coin door. Lol
@@josephromano6168 Excellent! I've purchased the same monitor and plan on using the same method as you did. Great to know it works.
Hi again. I did the whole swap tonight and played for an hour and had the best hour ever. Came back a few hours later and I don't have my controls working anymore. Ever had this? I know they work cuz I blind switched to otg and they must work to do that, but in VPX they just don't work now. Spent the last hour changing 3 cables and multiple times restarting both my pc and legends and just it's like I don't have flippers or buttons now? Worked fine 3 hours ago. I'm totally stumped! @@josephromano6168
Can this be done with a 4K monitor as well?
Absolutely, as long as the packaging is similar. I went with the 1440p in higher refresh rate because I didn't want the ball to lag like it was prior. The alternative for me, budget wise, was 4K 60 Hz. Doing 4K and 165 Hertz would be amazing! My graphics card would definitely sweat lol
How is that PC holding up? Is there enough airflow?
Yeah it's absolutely fine without any issues! I currently have the back door open though. When I finish the surround sound I'll probably mount a 140 or 200MM Noctua fan on the door for a constant supply of cold air.
I'm thinking about doing this mod, however I don't want to lose access to the stock tables I've purchased. Are you able to use the new monitor with the stock Legends software?
No you cannot
I did the swap and now my machine channel wont go to OTG? Any suggestions. None of the buttons work like this
Did you plug in the USB male-male and HDMI cord from the top of the ALP to your PC like you normally would for OTG?
@@josephromano6168 thanks for your reply. I didn’t do the push up then start that you mentioned in another comment. Got it working after I did that
@@richfalt9695 I'm glad it's all working! 😀
@@josephromano6168 thanks so much for your video! Much appreciated. My only change was I was able to center the monitor a little more so the bezel covered the plastic in the screen. It looks amazing
@@josephromano6168 I also drilled a small hole from the outside to access the on/off button. Barely noticeable, but if I turn the power off or have an outage, I won’t have to mess with opening the cabinet
I have the exact same monitor!
What's the hdmi plugged into control panel for?
Lg 32GK650F
Will this monitor work just the same as the one you listed?
Yeah that should work!
@@josephromano6168 does having these high hertz screens cut down on button lag?
@@richfalt9695 Absolutely, it's night and day having the 140hz monitor directly connected to the PC. Even using OTG for controls still feels almost instant. It's made playing so much more pleasant
How is the gutting ALP coming along? Curious how to bypass ALP entirely.
Honestly the ALP gutting was put on hold for a few months. I had to finish hand laying a 400sqft paver patio. And trench a EV charger before the ground froze up. I'm hoping to get back started this December!
I’m thinking, get a backbox 2.0 first, then get the Cleveland kit that includes 10 solenoids and the plunger and monitor swap at the same time. I really want to do this as a project.
@@PixelatedTravelR That's probably the better option.. it'd be easier to install the solenoids while it's completely gutted. Depending on the power supply included with the Cleveland kit, you may be able to get some DAMGOO amps for your speakers and save yourself some money.
Watched the video - read every comment: and I appreciate the video, but I don't think I trust myself to pull this off so I'll have to remain w/the stock ALP monitor. :(
One question though, on the right sight of the table, doesn't the screen get cut off a bit though?
Nope, I don't see anything being cut off on the right side
@@josephromano6168 Thanks! Any issues since the install? Was it a pretty straight forward swap? Btw., that new screen os 1000% better than the original The original was so dull and not being able to have gsync or freesync sucked. I gotta do this soon!
@@gmee123 No issues since the swap. it was pretty easy to do.. especially once I had a plan in place lol you definitely won't regret it! It makes it more enjoyable
@@josephromano6168 So by swapping out the screen, you're effectively unable to use the stock machine correct? You pretty much have to commit to gutting it? How did you deal with the back box screens?
@@gmee123 Kind of.. you can't use the stock tables. I still have the ALP computer, power supply, and VIBS running. I'm using OTG mode for audio and controls for now until I eventually completely gut it. The lag with OTG controls and the new monitor is next to nothing
How do you login to atgames? Doesn't it require you to login every few weeks?
Nope, I never have to log in. I just press the OTG button near the HDMI/USB, then UP on the D-pad, then the START button on the coin door to enable OTG for audio/controls
So how did you get the pinball buttons and front buttons connected to the PC without the PCB?
I still plug in an HDMI & USB to the ALP like normal, but I don't use it as a display. I set the new screen as display 1, the VIBS board as display 2, and I make the ALP stock HDMI as display 3. I set the audio as the alp HDMI (display 3). It lets me maintain audio and controls until I do a full gut in the winter.
@@josephromano6168 GREAT VIDEO, just ordered my monitor. one thing though, you can use the exciters from the stock setup? I am using a PC connected to mine now and get no exciters at all. even with the audio going through the HDMI to the stock monitor. I mean when using VPX or Futrure Pinball. Is that normal?
@@xSpecterx99999999 No, the exciters should work.. do they work on the stock tables??
@@josephromano6168 yeah they do.... Well dang
@@josephromano6168 Fixed it. didn't have Haptics Forced On in the atgames tables settings.
Quick question, how do you power on/off the monitor this way?
The monitor is plugged into a power strip with everything else. I just flip the power strip switch when I'm done playing. Flipping the switch on would turn everything back on. Once I take down my Christmas decorations I'll utilize one of the Kasa plugs to automate the process a little bit better.
@@josephromano6168 Awesome. Would love to see an update video when you do that.