Surfed it in 1978 ... still have scars, one just above my left eye ... board tip. Stitched up with needle and cotton thread by the local tailor. No anaesthetic, just tequila. No-one on the beach - only surfers in the water. No leg ropes. No airport, no internet. Wipeouts there always the same. Bad.
Awesome angle & vision mate 👏👏
Surfed it in 1978 ... still have scars, one just above my left eye ... board tip. Stitched up with needle and cotton thread by the local tailor. No anaesthetic, just tequila.
No-one on the beach - only surfers in the water. No leg ropes. No airport, no internet.
Wipeouts there always the same. Bad.
I was there about the same time and it was fantastic. I caught it triple overhead, and there was only four of us out - it was spooky as hell!
big wave .,,,
Zicatela the backbreaker
Brutal